WWI Digest 2931 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts by "Francisca e Pedro Soares" 2) Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts by Todd Hayes 3) German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone by Stephendigiacomo@aol.com 4) Maurice Farman 1914 by "VIKSproc" 5) Re: German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone by "Bob Pearson" 6) Re: Going Down Under by "cameron rile" 7) friedrichs. under construc pix by "Bucky" 8) Re: friedrichs. under construc pix by "Steven M.Perry" 9) RE: Witold - an OT suggestion for Part by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 10) Re: Witold - an OT suggestion for Part by "Steven M.Perry" 11) USMC Curtiss Jenny Help by Craig Gavin 12) Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help by Al Superczynski 13) Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help by Craig Gavin 14) Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help by TomTheAeronut@aol.com 15) RE: Junkers J1 Models by "Ray Boorman" 16) Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts by "Francisca e Pedro Soares" 17) Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts by "Francisca e Pedro Soares" 18) Re: German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone ( Gulaschkanone) / How to paint horses by "Hans Trauner" 19) Re: Witold - an OT suggestion for Part by Witold Kozakiewicz 20) Re: snipe/dolphin pe frets by Witold Kozakiewicz 21) Re: snipe/dolphin pe frets by ERIC HIGHT 22) Dornier D.1 by "TOM PLESHA" 23) RE: Going Down Under by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= 24) RE: Dornier D.1 by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= 25) RE: Dornier D.1 - something I forgot by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= 26) Mold making and casting question by "Steven M.Perry" 27) PE parts sheet by "Steven M.Perry" 28) Re: Dornier D.1 by "TOM PLESHA" 29) Re: Mold making and casting question by "Hans Trauner" 30) Re: Mold making and casting question by "John & Allison Cyganowski" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 22:15:30 -0000 From: "Francisca e Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts Message-ID: <012401c071e6$f89b06a0$57df41c2@pc1> a couple of "standard" seatbelts would be nice too. I really feel that PE is tops for bidimensional stuff and belts, horns and stiching definitively fall into this category. And please count me in for this project, provided we reach an afordable cost. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 14:38:29 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts Message-ID: <20001229223829.92438.qmail@web9009.mail.yahoo.com> Francisca, Eduard does seatbelts for German, French, and British a/c in 1:72 and 1:48. Have you tried those? Todd --- Francisca e Pedro Soares wrote: > a couple of "standard" seatbelts would be nice too. > I really feel that PE > is tops for bidimensional stuff and belts, horns and > stiching definitively > fall into this category. > > And please count me in for this project, provided we > reach an afordable > cost. > > Pedro > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 18:16:44 EST From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone Message-ID: <4b.57f3d89.277e755c@aol.com> I picked up the Tamiya horse-drawn field kitchen. It looks to me like the design of it could easily date back to the 1870's. Just change the uniform of the crew. By the way, any tips on how to paint horses? (Yes, 1/35 styrenes, not real ones.) Cheers, Steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 04:37:59 +0100 From: "VIKSproc" To: Cc: , Subject: Maurice Farman 1914 Message-ID: <0012309781.AA978133815@lysntsmail.oslo.pgs.com> Hei, Alberto asked: >According to my references, it seems that the upper part of the MF 1914 >nacelle was sheet metal and that the rest of it was fabric covered. >Is this correct ? >Any suggestion about the sheet metal part colour ? I don`t have my references with me on the job, but as far as I remember, the cone shaped fairing in front of the pilot is metal. On the Farman in NTM, it is painted a protective light grey outside and is natural dull aluminium inside. All the rest is fabric covered. Have a couple of photos which shows the nacelle in detail, both of the restored aircraft and a flying replica being built at Kjeller AFB. There are quite a few details worth noting, both the big copper fuel tank, engine, seat(s) and the rudder pedals and steering handle. Can provide you with scans when I get back home in 2-3 weeks time, this is my work Email adress, home Email is: knut.erik.hagen@eunet.no Eders Knut Erik ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 16:08:37 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone Message-ID: <200012300122.RAA08326@mail.rapidnet.net> Check my build of the Airfix Polish Lancer in the July Internet Modeler ... it describes how I painted my first horse. http://www.internetmodeler.com/july2000/figures/lancer.htm Bob ---------- >From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone >Date: Fri, Dec 29, 2000, 3:21 pm > > I picked up the Tamiya horse-drawn field kitchen. It looks to me like the > design of it could easily date back to the 1870's. Just change the uniform > of the crew. > By the way, any tips on how to paint horses? (Yes, 1/35 styrenes, not > real ones.) > Cheers, > Steve ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 19:30:15 -0500 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Going Down Under Message-ID: Lance, >They drink Tooey's (sp?) in South Australia, so make sure >you don't ask for a Victoria Bitter like you'll have to in Melbourne. Tooheys beer is the NSW beer but in the 80's and early 90's it pretty much passed for domestic beer and hence lost it's status ot the next contender which was VB. Reschs is the best NSW was producing at the time I left Aus shores three years ago. Coopers and Redback beer are the two indiginous South Australian beers I know of. Coopers is in the US so you can get it, SA likes their beer a bit stronger. Redback is still the best wheat beer I have ever tasted. >The QANTAS AVRO 504 was in the Sydney domestic air terminal >when I was last there. Is it still? I think it may be up in Longreach QLD now, I dont remember it being there in 97? Shane may know more. Does anyone know of the plans for the SE5a? Is it going to be restored to it's original RAAF markings? The AWM had about 30 WWI aircraft including B1229 (Smith's F2B), sometime in the 30's a bunch of them, except for the well known survivors, got pushed into the middle of a field and a match put to them. >Bon Voyage... I wish I were going with you; it's a >beautiful country! Me too, much as I love my wife and North America I cant wait to get back to the land of sun, sand, surf and drought. Three months and counting. On another note, Santa brought Wrigleys "Battle Below, A History of 3 Sqn AFC", the picture in that book of RE8 "J" A3062, it looks like a faded "D" and "4" or "1" on the top wing rather than "B" and "4". The book also has an aerial picture of the aerodrome at Bailleul with a huge shell hole amongst the officers huts. At least four huts have been taken out. cam AFC - http://members.nbci.com/pointcook/ ________________________________________ Get your email at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 09:50:35 +0900 From: "Bucky" To: Subject: friedrichs. under construc pix Message-ID: <001501c071fa$858dcf80$2b4207d3@compaqcomputer> FWIW, I have posted some paltry pix of work in progress on the Friedrichsdactyl at: www.geocities.com/msheftall/fried.html Bucky ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 20:29:52 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: friedrichs. under construc pix Message-ID: <003601c07200$02a04c00$34f9aec7@default> > FWIW, I have posted some paltry pix of work in progress on the > Friedrichsdactyl at: > > www.geocities.com/msheftall/fried.html > > Bucky Cool shots. I love seeing construction pix, especially of a scratchbuild. Looks like a sizeable model too. Did the nacelles start out as a box structure and you sanded the curves? Nice engine too. Is it cast? If so are other copies possible?? Please keep us up to date with more photos as you go. sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 19:41:07 -0600 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: Subject: RE: Witold - an OT suggestion for Part Message-ID: Several years ago, I purchased a Verlinden super-detail kit for the 1/48 Hasegawa Me-109E (hail Mary, hail Mary, hail Mary). It included some PE parts for the canopy frame that were supposed to be bent to shape then glued on the canopy. I never could get it to bend or fit right, and I had been working with PE for years before I even attempted this one. Granted that WWI types are not going to have "glass" as intricate as the above mentioned type, but I wasn't impressed by Verlinden's attempt, and considered it a waste of space on the brass sheet. Another idea for flat panels might be to take very high quality tape (such as that used in the auto repair industry) and slice it into thin strips, paint it, and then apply it to clear styrene. Paul --Original Message----- From: Crawford Neil That's a good idea, for all sorts of windscreen/cockpit framing, also ot. Nowadays these cockpit masks are popular, why not sell them as PE, then bend to shape, spray, and glue to vac-formed canopy. Could be a business-idea for someone. /Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 21:53:53 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: Witold - an OT suggestion for Part Message-ID: <004001c0720b$bf5e2a00$34f9aec7@default> > Granted that WWI types are not going to have "glass" as intricate as the > above mentioned type. Greenhouse canopies and other framed glasswork are why I don't model modern aircraft. I was so happy not to have to deal with glass and frames that I'd built 3 WWI planes before I realized that struts and rigging were supposed to be a problem. sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 23:36:54 -0600 From: Craig Gavin To: WWI Modelers List Subject: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help Message-ID: After a long dry spell as a result of severe modelers' block, I've finally got a kit going on the workbench. But I'm stuck and need help!! I'm using Barry's Roseplane JN-4H Conversion to do a Wright-Hispano powered Curtiss Jenny. I'd like to do a JN-4HG Gunnery Trainer, as used by the USMC. The problem is, I can't find anything in my sources regarding color & markings. The only pictures I've found are nose-on, or just of the gunner's station. Any help with color & marks would be greatly appreciated. TIA - Craig Gavin (Ice-bound in Arkansas) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:04:20 -0600 From: Al Superczynski To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help Message-ID: On Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:39:16 -0500 (EST), Craig wrote: >Ice-bound in Arkansas... Where? I'm in N. Little Rock; had no power 8 of the past 16 days and it's fluctuating as I type....... :( Al ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:32:52 -0600 From: Craig Gavin To: Subject: Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help Message-ID: Al - I'm in the far N.W. corner of Ark. - Bella Vista - about 2 miles south of Missouri and 30 miles north of Fayetteville. From the reports I've heard, ya'll in L.R. got it far worst than we did. But the problem here are the steep hills - almost as steep as University Avenue between Cantrell and Markham. And we have electricity - so I guess I'll get no sympathy from you now, will I? - Craig > From: Al Superczynski > Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 01:07:44 -0500 (EST) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help > > On Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:39:16 -0500 (EST), Craig wrote: > >> Ice-bound in Arkansas... > > Where? I'm in N. Little Rock; had no power 8 of the past 16 days > and it's fluctuating as I type....... :( > > Al > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 01:59:26 EST From: TomTheAeronut@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: USMC Curtiss Jenny Help Message-ID: <50.f67fd1e.277ee1ce@aol.com> In a message dated 12/30/00 1:05:28 AM EST, modeleral@up-link.net writes: << Where? I'm in N. Little Rock; had no power 8 of the past 16 days and it's fluctuating as I type....... :( Al >> Who says there isn't "instant karma"?? Think back to what you did the first week of last month. Notice that we in *California* are running around in T-shirts and cutoffs? Think what's going to happen the next four winters. :-) TC ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:30:46 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Junkers J1 Models Message-ID: Volker, Thanks for letting me know the Czechmasters J1/J4 model is still around. I emailed Aviation USK in the US and they are ordering it for me, along with the J9/D1 in the correct scale I might add. Of course it could be a month or two before I get them, but hey everything comes to he who waits;) Ray -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of Volker Häusler Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 12:45 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Junkers J1 Models Ray, AFAIK the Czechmasters resin J I is still around (I definitely saw some during my last trip back to Germany at the Modellbaustudio Rhein-Ruhr alias Detlef Schorsch of Classic Plane). And it is really a nice model, with the corrugations nearly as beautyful as those of the Warbirds D I vac. BTW the Airmodel resin was only a differently packed Czechmasters kit. Volker ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 08:54:43 -0000 From: "Francisca e Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts Message-ID: <00cc01c0723e$92fd8180$eaf441c2@pc1> Todd, Francisca hasn't for sure, since she doesn't care much about models ;-) I, on the other hand do care a lot about models and so I thank you much for the info. I didn't know eduard had these sets. I'll try to find them. Thanks Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: Todd Hayes To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 10:43 PM Subject: Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts > Francisca, > > Eduard does seatbelts for German, French, and British > a/c in 1:72 and 1:48. Have you tried those? > > Todd > > --- Francisca e Pedro Soares > wrote: > > a couple of "standard" seatbelts would be nice too. > > I really feel that PE > > is tops for bidimensional stuff and belts, horns and > > stiching definitively > > fall into this category. > > > > And please count me in for this project, provided we > > reach an afordable > > cost. > > > > Pedro > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 08:58:50 -0000 From: "Francisca e Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts Message-ID: <00cd01c0723e$bb318f20$eaf441c2@pc1> Todd, Francisca hasn't for sure, since she doesn't care much about models ;-) I, on the other hand do care a lot about models and so I thank you much for the info. I didn't know eduard had these sets. I'll try to find them. Thanks Pedro BTW A Happy new year to all of you people in The List. May next year be a very productive year (even though at my current rate this would mean about 2 or 3 kits done.....) ----- Original Message ----- From: Todd Hayes To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 10:43 PM Subject: Re: PE - Fotocut info - Group based etch parts > Francisca, > > Eduard does seatbelts for German, French, and British > a/c in 1:72 and 1:48. Have you tried those? > > Todd > > --- Francisca e Pedro Soares > wrote: > > a couple of "standard" seatbelts would be nice too. > > I really feel that PE > > is tops for bidimensional stuff and belts, horns and > > stiching definitively > > fall into this category. > > > > And please count me in for this project, provided we > > reach an afordable > > cost. > > > > Pedro > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 14:25:04 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: German Field Kitchen - gulashkanone ( Gulaschkanone) / How to paint horses Message-ID: <002801c07263$ec5201a0$15a072d4@custom-pc> Steve, all I can do is to give you a short description as I am doing with my horses. I am painting figures for years now and to be honest, horses are not my favourites. But let's give them a try. Step 1: Buy a book about horses. Every girl up to 15 years old loves horses and so a lot of cheap books with colour photos are available. If not available take a look for a Year-2000-Horse-Calendar. Very cheap, also. Step 2: Take a decision: Which sort of paint will you use? Enamels, acrylics, oils? For myself I prefer oils in larger scales and acrylics in smaller scale ( up to 54mm = 1/35 scale). If you don't start figure painting on a regular basis, you will not buy oils, I presume. If you use acryl, don't use Tamiya or Gunze. It will not work. What you need are true water soluble acrylics. The European Community of Modelbuilters use 'Model Color', a spanish brand, available also under the 'Andrea'-logo. Enamels are o.k., also, but you have to count with longer drying time and consider the use of your airbrush! Step 3: Use a base colour, enamel or acrylic. Take a shade which is very near to the required shade. Now take a look to your book / calendar. Nearly all horses have very dark fetlocks, also the nose is darker. The mouth is usually flesh coloured. Not all horses do have white blesses or spots over the nose. That's all for general colouring. If you use enamels, simply use your airbrush. Colour demarcation between the base colour and dark fetlocks, noses etc. are usually very soft. To achieve this with acyricls, use some sort of a 'glazing technique'. Thin down the paint and use several coats of 'glazes' = 'washes'. If colour demarcation is still too hard 'glaze' it down with base colour. Step 4: Shadows & highlights Give the belly a darker hue and shadow down all 'deeper' parts with 'glazes' ( enamels: airbrush them). Make the darker hue with base colour plus dark umbra plus black. Never use pure black alone. The highlights are done in the same style. Use base colour plus light ochre or tan or yellow. Do not use pure white! It'll give a greyish shade! Always use several 'glazes', and if you don't like the colour demarcation tone it down with base colour. If you still have nerves until now, make a few lightest highlights. But only a few! Step 5: Eyes and details Paint mouth, nostrils etc. Paint eye balls glossy black. After drying, give them a reflexion spot from pure white. Step 6: You're ready now. Cool down and consiter to scratchbuild a 1/48 scale Ilya Mourometz. It's easier to paint. Hans P.S. If you want to use oils, please contact me off-list. It's a bit different. You don't need to work with 'glazes' but some sort of blending technique. And: sorry for my strange use of the english language, but with pure OT themes I'm better. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 14:19:22 +0100 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Witold - an OT suggestion for Part Message-ID: <3A4DE0DA.D27CC967@bg.am.lodz.pl> Jan Vihonen napisa³(a): > > Witold, > > I just got me an ICM Ilya Muromets but sadly the kit was lacking the > transparent sprue. While I was inspecting the kit I thought how nice it > would be to have a Part-like treatment for the kit; film with outlines > of the windows, and photoetched frames for them. And all the rest that > could be realised in PE medium, of course. So, would you mind hinting > your friend? > > Jan I plan to buy Ilya, pe set for frames and other details is something I can do, and I think that Part will release it as normal, comercial set. I haven't seen this kit yet, but I ordered one and my local hobby shop should get it in about month. When it will arrive I would start work on it. Steve, I won't forget your suggestion about artificial horizon. Thansk for idea. Regards -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 14:22:02 +0100 From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: snipe/dolphin pe frets Message-ID: <3A4DE17A.F28589C2@bg.am.lodz.pl> ERIC HIGHT napisa³(a): > > Witold, > > and they are 30% off to list members. thanks again > eric Eric, I knew that you released Snipe and Dolphin but I forget that pe sets can be ordered separately :-). BTW Is Fokker D.V available? TIA -- Witold Kozakiewicz ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 09:20:32 -0700 From: ERIC HIGHT To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: snipe/dolphin pe frets Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20001230092032.00815a90@pop.amug.org> witold, all of the "parts" (pe,decals drawings etc.) for our kits are available seperately. resin and white metal parts depend on whether i have spares, but if i do i will sell those seperately. sorry the d.v is out of production. i hope to rerelease it within the next couple of years. regards, eric At 08:31 AM 12/30/00 -0500, you wrote: >ERIC HIGHT napisa³(a): >> >> Witold, >> >> and they are 30% off to list members. thanks again >> eric > >Eric, I knew that you released Snipe and Dolphin but I forget that pe >sets can be ordered separately :-). >BTW Is Fokker D.V available? >TIA >-- >Witold Kozakiewicz > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 11:30:34 -0500 From: "TOM PLESHA" To: Subject: Dornier D.1 Message-ID: <003601c0727d$d669a4a0$5f424c0c@tom> I'm starting a D.1 by CSM, I have the Windsock mini-file for it. Does anyone know of any interior photos, etc. available, other then what is in the mini-file? Have a Safe and Happy Holiday thanks Tom Plesha ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:24:01 +0700 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Going Down Under Message-ID: Shane, Lance, Cameron & David, Thanks a lot for the infos - seems I have to extend the trip for a few days (or convince the kids that the Adventure Parks are not worth the visit - but that would be harder). I´ll try to get those photos, especially of the Bristol M 1, which is an old favourite of mine - and again, CMK did a great resin on that one. As for the beer: Actually, as I´m coming from a wine growing area, the wines (and the Barossa area especially) have a higher priority - especially in respect of the incredible price they´re asking for a good wine over here in Malaysia. Shane - actually there´s a chance I´ll be in Sidney on Jan 13 - I´ll send you an off list mail to learn where APMA meets. And Cameron - I have to admit I did not see your site before. Great Stuff! Thanks again Volker ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:33:42 +0700 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Dornier D.1 Message-ID: Tom, I got a Dornier Typenblatt (loosely translated as an aircraft specification sheet) of the D I. Nothing spectecular, the photos are mostly also in the Mini DF, but it´s got a small factory drawing showing the basic interior arangement. Too, it´s got a photo of the original mock up of the D I with an Albatros-like nose. If you´re intertested, I´ll send you a scan. Volker -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of TOM PLESHA Sent: Samstag, 30. Dezember 2000 23:31 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Dornier D.1 I'm starting a D.1 by CSM, I have the Windsock mini-file for it. Does anyone know of any interior photos, etc. available, other then what is in the mini-file? Have a Safe and Happy Holiday thanks Tom Plesha ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:35:37 +0700 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Volker_H=E4usler?= To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Dornier D.1 - something I forgot Message-ID: IIRC, there was also something on the Dornier D I in the WW I Aero "Cockpits" series - or is this only failing memory? Volker -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of TOM PLESHA Sent: Samstag, 30. Dezember 2000 23:31 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Dornier D.1 I'm starting a D.1 by CSM, I have the Windsock mini-file for it. Does anyone know of any interior photos, etc. available, other then what is in the mini-file? Have a Safe and Happy Holiday thanks Tom Plesha ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 12:12:49 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Mold making and casting question Message-ID: <002701c07283$bdd4dc60$26f9aec7@default> I've been wanting to make RTV molds and cast some parts, but I understand that proper mold making requires a vacuum and proper casting requires a pressure greater than atmospheric. Am I correct or laboring under a misconception here? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 12:55:35 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: PE parts sheet Message-ID: <004f01c07289$b65fedc0$26f9aec7@default> I've sent out some written requests for information and prices on having a custom set made up. I will relay the information when it is received. In the mean time, If anyone has any scans of parts, drawings or photos for the following items, I'd appreciate getting a copy. Rocker arms Control horns Exit gromets Tee handles Switch faces Switch handles Maxium lever Gun triggers Belt buckles Pigeon cage And of course... Tailframes Now a general question. Would you rather have rather have a single fair sized fret that contains enough of most of the above items to do 3 or 4 models or would you rather have a few smaller frets of say, control horns/exit gromets or switches, handles and levers, enough for maybe 10 models? LMK I'd like to see if there is a preference. If we're gonna do this, then we better do what most folks would like to have. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 13:03:08 -0500 From: "TOM PLESHA" To: Subject: Re: Dornier D.1 Message-ID: <001001c0728a$c4a9f5a0$50434c0c@tom> Volker- I certainly would appreciate if you could scan the drawing and send it. My address is: appman@worldnet.att.net thanks again Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Volker Häusler" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 11:50 AM Subject: RE: Dornier D.1 > Tom, > > I got a Dornier Typenblatt (loosely translated as an aircraft specification > sheet) of the D I. Nothing spectecular, the photos are mostly also in the > Mini DF, but it´s got a small factory drawing showing the basic interior > arangement. Too, it´s got a photo of the original mock up of the D I with an > Albatros-like nose. If you´re intertested, I´ll send you a scan. > > Volker > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > TOM PLESHA > Sent: Samstag, 30. Dezember 2000 23:31 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Dornier D.1 > > > I'm starting a D.1 by CSM, I have the Windsock mini-file for it. Does > anyone know of any interior photos, etc. available, other then what is in > the mini-file? > Have a Safe and Happy Holiday > thanks > Tom Plesha > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 19:03:00 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Mold making and casting question Message-ID: <001401c0728a$bfb77ae0$34a272d4@custom-pc> Steven, the problem are air bubbles, first when the RTV is curing, then when the resin is curing. To avoid this, take materials which are not curing superfast. Do not shake bottles before opening. Stirr well to mix the harderners, but stirr slowly. To make the mould, take a brush to put the RTV on the master . Stipple, don't brush. There is no problem if this first coat cures. Then finish your mould in the standard method. For casting read the instructions of the resins carefully and do not overdo mixing, as already said. Some resins get a higher viscosity, if heated, but don't cook it! At last, during curing of the resin, a shaking device is a great help. But use it only for the time as the resin is still liquid, of course! Ask in a dentist's laboratory for a used one. Dentist's laboratories are constantly making moulds, they are using RTV, resins and plaster. Due to the ultrashort curing time of plaster they need to use the 'shaking machine'. It usually works like a sander, up-side-down. But this is no absolute need. If you don't bother about 2 bad castings out of 5... But usually one or even both could easily repaired with epoxy or CA. But the best method of all is: Marry a dentist. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 13:00:30 -0500 From: "John & Allison Cyganowski" To: Subject: Re: Mold making and casting question Message-ID: <000801c0728a$66f094f0$163c183f@cyrixp166> Yes & no. If you are casting small pieces & making small molds, you will do just fine at ambient conditions with no special equipment. For more grandiose undertakings, a vacuum to de-gas the RTV is handy. Pressure is a funny thing. I am emotionally attached to it, but I have no clear examples to show that would indicate that it is better. BE CAREFUL WITH PRESSURE. If you get hit in the face with the lid of your pressure vessel you will be very sorry. The most important aspects to resing casting are thinking & planning. "What kind of piece will I cast? How will I get the piece out without destroying the mold?". Answering these questions will lead you to a rational mold design. A slow curing RTV will eventually de-gas itself. Let it stand for ~15-30 minutes after mixing. Then pour it into your mold box. For masters with a lot of small complex detail, "butter the master" i.e. use a spatula and work the RTV into the master. Take care not to entrain air. Pour slowly into the corner of the box, allowing the RTV to flow and displace the air. Try not to trap air into undercuts on the master. Choose a low viscosity resin - a polyurethane type. Polyester based resins generate more heat & can create their own bubbles. They tend to be more viscous so if you mix air in, it may form bubbles and not come out. Use a dull probe to work the resin into the mold and to dislodge bubbles. Wear gloves as the resin will cure on to your skin and it won't easily come off. Don't get discouraged. There are tricks & traps which you will discover on your own. Regards, Cyg. ----- Original Message ----- From: Steven M.Perry To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2000 12:16 PM Subject: Mold making and casting question > I've been wanting to make RTV molds and cast some parts, but I understand > that proper mold making requires a vacuum and proper casting requires a > pressure greater than atmospheric. > > Am I correct or laboring under a misconception here? > > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2931 **********************