WWI Digest 2924 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: xoom/nbci sucks by "John & Allison Cyganowski" 2) Re: Ni. 28 pitot tube by "Alberto Casirati" 3) RE: Weathering with pastels by Crawford Neil 4) Re: Plastic under the tree? by GRBroman@aol.com 5) RE: Weathering with pastels by "dfernet0" 6) Re: Season's greetings - traditions (and what's under the tree) by GRBroman@aol.com 7) Re: Merry Christmas by "The Shannons" 8) RE: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released by "Ken Acosta" 9) Re: plywood what-if by "Hans Trauner" 10) Oil wash over enamel/ was: plywood what-if by "Michael Kendix" 11) Re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released by "Steven M.Perry" 12) Nie.24 drawings by "Matt Bittner" 13) Pearson's Products Presents by "Richard Eaton" 14) Re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released by "Matt Bittner" 15) re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released by "Ray Boorman" 16) Re: plywood what-if by Lee Mensinger 17) Brisfit In Action by "Ken Acosta" 18) Re: Oil wash over enamel/ was: plywood what-if by "Hans Trauner" 19) Re: Oil wash over enamel/ was: plywood what-if by "Michael Kendix" 20) RE: plywood what-if by "dfernet0" 21) RE: Nie.24 drawings by "dfernet0" 22) Re: plywood what-if by "Bob Pearson" 23) Lumiere propeller decals - help! by "anders bruun" 24) Nice Stropp by "Richard Eaton" 25) RK - you have serious competition! by TomTheAeronut@aol.com 26) RE: Junkers J1 Models by Todd Hayes 27) Future substitute WAS: plywood what-if by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 28) Re: RK - you have serious competition! by KarrArt@aol.com 29) Re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released by Todd Hayes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:57:56 -0500 From: "John & Allison Cyganowski" To: Subject: Re: xoom/nbci sucks Message-ID: <006201c0700d$0ae59e00$c639183f@cyrixp166> Hi Bob, I checked your page. While it comes up slow, it seems to be all there. Regards, Cyg ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray Boorman To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 3:08 AM Subject: RE: xoom/nbci sucks > Bob, > at 1024/768 its a bit skinny. centered properly but lots of space on the > sides. Also the font is a bit small and since it was bold i had to scrunch > my eyes up to read the type. Of course it could just be I'm getting old ;) I > was using IE5.0. Not sure if that was the answer you wanted. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Bob Pearson > Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2000 11:52 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: xoom/nbci sucks > > > Could someone check > http://members.nbci.com/Sopwith_5F1/CD-SAMPLE/index.html > > and let me know if it works. > > I have been unable to get any of my pages to work properly for some time now > and am considering leaving xoom/nbci (have to love mergers where they never > tell us poor peons it happened - can anyone say simplenet and yahoo - who > (BTW) also suck) > > thanks, > Bob > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 15:10:04 +0100 From: "Alberto Casirati" To: Subject: Re: Ni. 28 pitot tube Message-ID: <000901c0700f$01afe960$b20a623e@s> On 27th December 2000 Neil Crwford wrote: > There is a pitot tube on the plywood front covering we are just > discussing. Can anyone suggest a method of making one in 1/72. > Alberto has done a beauty in his WS-article, maybe he can tell us > how? Thanks for your interest, Neil. Well, it was simple enough. I heat stretched a cocktail stick (the thick walls variety which comes with tea or fruit juice small packages) so as to get the tube's right outside diameter. Then gave a conical shape to each end, by means of sanding with fine wet'n dry. One of the shaped ends was then drilled through and the other one was inserted into the first, thus obtaining the Venturi tube. A short heat stretched sprue segment was then superglued to it and inserted in the relevant fuselage opening. Hope this can be of some interest. All the very best, Alberto Casirati ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 15:14:12 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Weathering with pastels Message-ID: Yes, you're right, I don't want to emphasise the "valleys", they are too much anyway. I just want to tone the whole thing down, make it a little matter, not so new looking. I already did the things you suggest with the lower channel and cowl. It's the actual fabric I want to weather a little. I scratchbuilt a complete new undercarriage, and removed all the junk that Revell have put in behind the cowl. It wasn't particuarly easy, but has to be done. My best advice is to throw the whole damn kit away, the rear fuselage is awful, the wings aren't much better (Alberto reskinned the wings, I should have but didn't), the cowling is wrong, it has "matchbox-ditches" between the front panels, really a waste of time. But it certainly looks neat when it's finished! /Neil -----Original Message----- From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] Sent: den 27 december 2000 14:52 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Weathering with pastels Neil: Watching the pictures of the newly restored Nieuports that appeared recently (that one from Texas and that of the NASM) seems like the wings have not as much "valleys" as portrayed in the Revell kit, but a subtler rib stations. So, I'd choose to not emphasize the wing surfaces, IMHO. On some Nieuport 28 pics I've seen, the metal cowl is slightly flaked off. I'm sure that the lower channel under the engine is caked with burnt oil and dust. Lower wing panels can be stained with mud from the wheels too. Those are the areas I'll weather. Neil, did you replaced the panel behind the cowl, where the front ends of the undercarriage go? is it easy to do? D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 10:31 AM Subject: Weathering with pastels > On ot subjects I've used pastels for weathering, usually by changing the > colour > of certain panels, and round the edges of some panels. It has worked fairly > well. > I want to do something similar on my Ni28, but there aren't any panels on > the wings, > just fabric. Should I brush pastel dust between the ribs, and leave the ribs > shiny, or > vice-versa. If I go for brushing the "valleys" should I have lighter pastels > or darker than > the original paint? It is in french five-colour camo. Could some of the > artists on the list > help me, I'm not really very good at this, I'm more of a builder than a > painter. > /Neil > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:32:32 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: Subject: Re: Plastic under the tree? Message-ID: <3d.554f70c.277b5780@aol.com> In a message dated Tue, 26 Dec 2000 9:59:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, Witold Kozakiewicz writes: >>And me. So we have little Gunners FanClub I was very upset after Liverpool match.>> Sadly, I had advance notice. We don't get the games here till Sunday night or Monday afternoon. My friend Paddy happened to be wandering around Liverpool and saw the smiles on teh faces of the fans and gave me the bad news. Still Arsenal are OT, didn't they start life down at Woolwich Arsenal making OT guns before they moved north to Highbury? ;) Shane, I share your sentiments about the ICM dreadnoughts, the plastic on the Grosser K is excellent. I was taken aback somewhat when I opened it up, it comes in a whacking great box but there's lots of open space in the box when you open it. A little PE railing will really set this off when it's done. Glen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:34:23 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Weathering with pastels Message-ID: <03bf01c07012$1b3d5360$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Neil! I guess that a bit of matt varnish here and there can improve the "faded" llok on certain tired machines. Have you seen that in some pictures of WW1 planes the surfaces haven't a regular sheen? Maybe because repairs, maybe because the dope wears different on some places or maybe just because. I planned to fill all the panel lines on the front fuselage panels, using some decal strip or 5 thou styrene to represent the starboard panel outlines (seen clearly on the NASM pictures). New fairings and bulges from styrene, a replacement for the machine gun side support and of course aftermarket guns. On the rear fuselage, I'm thinking to re-skin the thingie, since it's too skinny anyway. Or maybe I would fill the recesses a bit with thick paint or putty, making it more tidy with sanding sticks or with careful scraping with a hobby knife blade. For the interiors, I'll use the LSM detail kit, wich looks pretty good. D. I must resist the compelling urge to start it before finishing the many current projects! ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 11:18 AM Subject: RE: Weathering with pastels > Yes, you're right, I don't want to emphasise the "valleys", they are too > much > anyway. I just want to tone the whole thing down, make it a little matter, > not > so new looking. I already did the things you suggest with the lower channel > and cowl. It's the actual fabric I want to weather a little. > > I scratchbuilt a complete new undercarriage, and removed all the junk that > Revell have put in behind the cowl. It wasn't particuarly easy, but has to > be done. My best advice is to throw the whole damn kit away, the rear > fuselage > is awful, the wings aren't much better (Alberto reskinned the wings, I > should > have but didn't), the cowling is wrong, it has "matchbox-ditches" between > the > front panels, really a waste of time. But it certainly looks neat when it's > finished! > /Neil > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:46:15 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: Subject: Re: Season's greetings - traditions (and what's under the tree) Message-ID: In a message dated Tue, 26 Dec 2000 2:37:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, KarrArt@aol.com writes: >A really great Christmas here in California. Shorts, T >shirts and no shoes on the back porch till a couple of >hours past sunset when it started to cool down a >little I should like to point out that it was a sunny -20F Christmas morning here in beautiful downtown Port Byron with snowfall reaching 25 inches for the month. Can I come and play at your house? I'll bring the Lutefisk, a great Broman family tradition from the Old Country. Makes Herring and turnip stew look like a delicacy. Glen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:05:50 -0600 From: "The Shannons" To: Subject: Re: Merry Christmas Message-ID: <009301c07016$82b58720$9ca7343f@shark> Now that all of the fur has stopped flying and the presents are all opened, I have a chance to sit at the computer. Merry Christmas all (it goes on until the 6th, don't cha know) and happy New Year. As far as loot, I got four plastic boxes -- three ot (including the dreaded.... Well, I won't go into that) and a DML Fokker Dr.I. The ot were ones that I had already built many of, years ago, but had to have the new Tamiya versions in 1/72nd (I build 1/72 for ot, 1/48 for OT -- the smaller scale works better for me on the second unpleasantness jobbies, though I might have built 1/72nd in OT if I had known back in '93-94 that there would be this sudden outflow of nice 1/72 kits in '98-2000 and more promises.) Oh, well, enjoy your holidays. .Mark. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kenneth Hagerup To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Monday, December 25, 2000 7:06 PM Subject: Merry Christmas > Best wishes to all on the list for a merry Christmas and a joyous, > prosperous and productive 2001 > > I didn't get any OT plastic, but did get a Tamiya 1/72 Spitfire, a Nieuport > print, and some of the holes in my WS Datafile collection filled in. > > Ken > > >From Nebraska, where it was -10F last night and is snowing right now. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:03:11 -0600 From: "Ken Acosta" To: , Subject: RE: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released Message-ID: Ray- I'm sure you'd get first-rate etchings from Fotocut, but I understand it's not at all cheap. I haven't contacted them myself yet, but from Alcorn's comments I expect a single custom sheet to run easily into three figures. Anyone considering this route would be well advised to cram as many parts onto one sheet as possible to maximize their mileage. I'm not at all trying to discourage anyone from pursuing this (I'm drafting some drawings for this myself); just please don't expect to shell out only $10-$20 to spruce up an already excellent Eduard kit. My 2 cents. KA >>> Ray_Boorman@telus.net 12/26/00 12:44PM >>> With all the posts about homebrew PE frames whizzing around on the list. I thought the following might be usefull. In the Scrathbuilt book John Alcorn created detail sheets for his 1/24th DH9A and sent them to Fotocut for Photoreduction and etching. If this service is still available from Fotocut would this not be a solution to getting good quality PE. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 16:45:37 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: plywood what-if Message-ID: <00f701c0701c$0f4d6720$eea072d4@custom-pc> Hi, as 'Future' is not available here in Germany ( or is it???) I would do the required effect with oil colours. I prefer oil colours for two reasons: First, as I am a figure painter also, I have them already on ma working desk. Second, if used very thinned down with white spirit the colour flows in every winkle. What I would do is: Paint the basic colour, acrylics or enamels. Cut strips from masking tape ( I prefer Tamiya's). Use the tapes as suggested with the decal strips. Press the tapes down very firmly. Cover the cockpit ( or what else) with thinned down umbra oil colour. Maybe pure colour directly from the tube will work also, try it! Remove the tapes. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 15:58:46 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Oil wash over enamel/ was: plywood what-if Message-ID: >From: "Hans Trauner" >... Second, if used very thinned down with white spirit the colour >flows >in every winkle [sic]. Hans: Can you use an oil wash thinned with Turpenoid or Turpentine over enamel paints? Will it damage the enamel paint job. I've used Turpenoid over acrylics with no problem. Michael P.S. Your English is excellent. My German is virtually non-existant, so I have no basis for criticism. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:03:55 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released Message-ID: <001f01c0701e$9ee1c5a0$59f1aec7@default> I made a test run on an etched frame just to see if my idea would work. I drew up a generic frame the correct size and etched it. I got a frame, but the edges were rough. Lots of cleanup with tiny files was required. Seems the tiniest irregularity on the edge of the resist line is amplified and an even edge nearly impossible. To get the kind of etchings that we need, the master pattern will have to be drawn large and photo reduced to actual size. I'd sure be interested in paying a share of the setup costs to get a run of a set of commonly used parts like control horns, stitching, strut fittings setc. Mass quantities of each item so you'd have a stock that would last for a long time. Nice thing about this is one master can be used for both scales. Any draftsmen out there interested? Any suggestions as to what sort of parts and how many of each would be useful? sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:06:56 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Nie.24 drawings Message-ID: <200012271606.IAA21347@falcon.prod.itd.earthlink.net> While looking through stuff for my "other" site, I came across some Nie.24 drawings: http://www.ipclub.ru/arsenal/hardware/draws/ I haven't looked at them in detail yet, but just wanted others to know. Matt Bittner "This isn't Nebraska, it's a half-way home for Hee-Haw rejects." ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:25:01 -0600 From: "Richard Eaton" To: Subject: Pearson's Products Presents Message-ID: <001801c07021$90ca90c0$f049a218@austin.rr.com> I just noticed a nice little write up on Bob's well done Colours and Markings of the World's Air Forces 1912-1920 in the January FSM News and Products column. It features a cool color/our photo. Nice bit of exposure for legs............ Highly recommended. Regards, Richard ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:17:45 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released Message-ID: <200012271631.IAA17272@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:06:42 -0500 (EST), Steven M.Perry wrote: > Any draftsmen out there interested? Any suggestions as to what sort of parts > and how many of each would be useful? Definitely the tail end frames, which started all this. One thing that I find ironic with the Tom's sets is that I have five or six French sets with the seat belts and "blip" or gas control switches gone, but everything else left intact. Eduard kind-of has provided a p/e set of nothing but belts, but I wonder about the French set. Just how accurate is the Eduard French p/e seat belt set? So, seat belts and "blip" or gas control switches get my vote. Rudder bars is another item that is gone from most of those French sets. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 08:32:39 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: "wwi" Subject: re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released Message-ID: Ken, I thought it might run to something around $50 to $100, which is about an hours work time. For a single set its overkill. But from the posts I had seen it looked like a quite a few people would want these, thereby lowering the price, of course if everyone wanted different sheets it would be prohibitive. Ray -----Original Message----- From: Ken Acosta [mailto:KACOSTA@colsa.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 7:03 AM To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu; Ray_Boorman@telus.net Subject: RE: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released Ray- I'm sure you'd get first-rate etchings from Fotocut, but I understand it's not at all cheap. I haven't contacted them myself yet, but from Alcorn's comments I expect a single custom sheet to run easily into three figures. Anyone considering this route would be well advised to cram as many parts onto one sheet as possible to maximize their mileage. I'm not at all trying to discourage anyone from pursuing this (I'm drafting some drawings for this myself); just please don't expect to shell out only $10-$20 to spruce up an already excellent Eduard kit. My 2 cents. KA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 10:37:07 -0600 From: Lee Mensinger To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: plywood what-if Message-ID: <3A4A1AB3.5B735A96@x25.net> D. has it almost exactly right. It is all wood and thin strips in layers that cross each other at a high angle, near 90 degrees. The forward section on an Nie28 is made up of numerous strips near 2 inches wide, and, applied at and angle near 45 deg. from vertical or horizontal. They are glued on and strapped down for drying. The curve across the fuselage is done a small distance at a time. It seemed to work well. Afterwards everything is sanded down after there is a filler type compound put on the seams. It makes a slick slippery surface and it is very strong as well. I have photos of the strips during and following application if anyone asks for some. Lee lemen@x25.net dfernet0 wrote: > Hi Neil > Check a recent windsock issue, where Nieuport 28 pictures are on the cover. > You will see that fuselage sides at the cockpit and ahead of the cockpit are > composite plywood covered. A bit aft the cockpit opening, there you have > stringers and fabric covering. > D. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Crawford Neil > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 8:18 AM > Subject: RE: plywood what-if > > > Sounds like a good idea. But why on a Ni28? All you can see in the > > cockpit is the usual fabric and bracing wires, at least in 1/72. > > /Neil > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: dfernet0 [mailto:dfernet0@rosario.gov.ar] > > Sent: den 27 december 2000 12:00 > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: plywood what-if > > > > > > Hi! > > They say that mind never rests. Well, while I was driving here to work I > had > > an idea that might work or not about representing those plywood fuselage > > interiors made of strips glued togheter. Pfalz, Roland, Nieuport (parts of > > it) have discernible inner surfaces covered in angled stripes of wood. > > Now this is the theoretic part: paint base colour on the inside, then > apply > > paralell strips of clear decal, spaced evenly the same distance as the > width > > of the decals. Allow to dry and then paint over them with future tinted > > slightly darker than the base colour (be natural wood or grey). The stripe > > edges will hold some of the tint and therefore very thin lines will appear > > on the surface. > > Would this work? I wish I can try it sooner, but there will be some time > > until I start my nieuport 28 project. What do you think? > > D. > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:45:02 -0600 From: "Ken Acosta" To: Subject: Brisfit In Action Message-ID: My lovely bride gave me a copy of "Bristol Fighter in Action" that I had marked in the December SMO mailer. She didn't know that I had already ordered it for myself and received it. So now I've got an extra copy. Anyone want a free "Brisfit in Action?" Please respond off-list if interested. KA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 17:46:04 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Oil wash over enamel/ was: plywood what-if Message-ID: <028101c07024$80ce2120$eea072d4@custom-pc> Michael, for myself I always use acrylics. But I have done it with enamels before, also. The enamel must have dried for several days, two days absolute minimum. The plastic on which the enamels are painted must be 100% grease free, otherwise the white spirit will flake it off. If in doubt, use pure turpentine, it's not so aggressive, but may make the oils glossy after drying. My absolute favourite (for the moment) is a non-smelly variant by Daler-Rowney, an english brand. Ask at you local artist's shop for an equivalent. Hans P.S. Thanks for your compliments concerning my english language. I have learned it from 'Scale Models', but I used those issues when Ray Rimell was the editor. Nowadays I am contemplating about ending by subscription. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 16:59:58 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Oil wash over enamel/ was: plywood what-if Message-ID: >From: "Hans Trauner" >My absolute favourite (for the moment) is a non-smelly variant by >Daler-Rowney, an english brand. Ask at you local artist's shop for an >equivalent. Thanks for your response. In the U.S., there is something called "Turpenoid". It has almost no smell but does give off a really faint odour that I find slightly nasty, though preferable to Turpentine. Michael _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 14:12:43 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: plywood what-if Message-ID: <045c01c07028$3a054300$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hans "Future" is a product by Johnsons and Johnsons to polish plastic floors with "permanent" shine. i'm sure that your local supermarket must have several variants of this. I have no "Future" here, nor "Klear" as some europeans can easily get, but here's called "Glo-Cot". It dries satin instead of high gloss -there must be something different on the formula- and is not as hard and brittle as the Future paint coats I've seen while in the U.S. (sigh!, recalling those wonderful models made by Steve always break my heart). I've tried several brands and choose Glo-Cot at the end because is the one that can be brushed better on plastic surfaces and still get an even finish. Do your experiments and if someone asks say that you put new flooring in your living room.HTH. About your tape method, it's something about I have to think aboutm but you may end with a surface of darkstripe/lighter stripe/dark stripe effect, wich is not the look I was talking about. The goal for me it's to achieve a tiny but distinct line between stripes of similar colour, be that varnished wood or silbergrau. D. But have to try oil paints someday. ----- Original Message ----- From: Hans Trauner > as 'Future' is not available here in Germany ( or is it???) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 14:14:31 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Nie.24 drawings Message-ID: <046c01c07028$7a940e60$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hey! the full scale drawings appear a fraction of a second and then the screen goes blank! The URL provided by Matt works OK, though. What's happening here? D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Bittner To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 1:15 PM Subject: Nie.24 drawings > While looking through stuff for my "other" site, I came across some > Nie.24 drawings: > > http://www.ipclub.ru/arsenal/hardware/draws/ > > I haven't looked at them in detail yet, but just wanted others to know. > > > Matt Bittner > "This isn't Nebraska, it's a half-way home for Hee-Haw rejects." > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 09:19:46 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: plywood what-if Message-ID: <200012271840.KAA06694@mail.rapidnet.net> I still haven't developed my shots of the NASM Ni28 .. I think I have 1 1/2 rolls on it. Hpowever I am approaching the bottom of the pile of shots from my trip last year. Bob ---------- > check these: > http://www.nasm.edu/nasm/garber/98jan/CM0014.jpg > http://www.nasm.edu/nasm/garber/00mar/00cm0005.jpg > http://ww1stuff.freeservers.com/cgi-bin/i/images/nieuport/nieu2803.jpg (OK > this one is very fuzzy, but you can see the varnished wood colour, quite > different to that on the NASM) > Would Brian have more pictures than those on the NASM website? Bob P. do you > have pictures of this area of the plane? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 18:36:55 +0100 From: "anders bruun" To: "WWI Modelling Mailing List" Subject: Lumiere propeller decals - help! Message-ID: <002b01c0702b$9ec83740$55ff43c3@mhxvlwpn> Hello everybody, I'm thinking seriously about finishing my (slightly off-topic) 1/32 Nieuport Sesquiplane, and for that I need to print Lumiere propeller decals. Do you have a photo or drawing of it? It is circular and has a ring with text around it and something white, perhaps a bird's wing, in the centre. I would be pleased to print a couple of extra ones in exchange for information... Happy new year, Anders Bruun ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 12:40:17 -0600 From: "Richard Eaton" To: Subject: Nice Stropp Message-ID: <000e01c07034$76b41ea0$f049a218@austin.rr.com> And paging onward in January's FSM we find an excellent shot of our own Otis Goodin's NASM D.Va Stropp! Great job Otis! Regards, Richard ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 13:43:58 EST From: TomTheAeronut@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RK - you have serious competition! Message-ID: <77.e16d976.277b926e@aol.com> Anyone who wants to see some serious *modeling* should go check out Hyperscale today and see the (ot) converted He-111Z and scratchbuilt Me-321 Gigant - both in 1/48 - by John C. Valo. Pretty amazing stuff. http://www.hyperscale.com Cheers, TC ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:08:33 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Junkers J1 Models Message-ID: <20001227190833.43200.qmail@web9006.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Volker, Is that the Junkers known as the "Tin Donkey?" Todd --- Volker_Häusler wrote: > Todd remarked: > > "Ray, > > Sopwith Hobbies still lists a Phoenix Models BRP19 > Junkers J.II ($15.95). I didn't know such an a/c > existed. Juan is good at misspelling/ mislabeling > a/c > types so maybe he means J.I. You might e-mail him > and > find out. He also lists a 1:72 Junkers D.I by > Rareplanes (RP01004 $6.35) and a Gotha G.IV > (RP03006 > $11.95). > > Todd" > > The J II (Junkers designation - note the Junkers J I > never got a military > designation while the Junkers J 4 received the > military designation J I (for > Infanterieflugzeug) - now that is complicated!) was > the first Junkers > Warplane, a monoplane fighter that got way to heavy. > The Phoenix vac is very > nice, as is the Warbirds/Rareplanes D I. > > Volker > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 20:22:46 +0100 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: Future substitute WAS: plywood what-if Message-ID: Hans, there are some European products that work similar to Future. I would suggest you to try German Voigt VC-330 floor wax. I have both of them: original Future and Voigt. Future is a bit thicker and fully transparent while in liquid state. Voigt is thiner and resembles thin milk rather when being liquid, but it is gloss and fully transparent after having dried. IMHO Future is a bit better, but Voigt is good enough to try it out. I prefer oil enalmels as well and I use Future (or Voigt) as an intermediate layer. First I spray surface with Humbrols or Model Masters, then I spray them with Future, and then I use artist's oils thinned with rectified turpentine to make wash. Future withstands turpentine much better than raw Humbrol, and it is far easier to wipe excess oil out of glossy acrylic surface. I had used Rowney oils as well as Talens oils for wash, but some months ago I switched to French Pebeo oils, simply because they were available in the local hypermarket :o) Cheers, Tomasz ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 14:32:38 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: RK - you have serious competition! Message-ID: <5b.fc0a2f9.277b9dd6@aol.com> In a message dated 12/27/00 10:45:12 AM Pacific Standard Time, TomTheAeronut@aol.com writes: << Anyone who wants to see some serious *modeling* should go check out Hyperscale today and see the (ot) converted He-111Z and scratchbuilt Me-321 Gigant - both in 1/48 - by John C. Valo. Pretty amazing stuff. http://www.hyperscale.com Cheers, TC >> One of these days.......a Staaken! RK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 11:34:16 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rear fuselage frames was: 1/48 Hanriots re-released Message-ID: <20001227193416.30625.qmail@web9007.mail.yahoo.com> Steve, Tom's Mworks expressed an interest in doing control horns and turnbuckles a while back. He was looking for sizing info. Maybe he'd do the frames too. Todd --- "Steven M.Perry" wrote: > I made a test run on an etched frame just to see if > my idea would work. I > drew up a generic frame the correct size and etched > it. > > I got a frame, but the edges were rough. Lots of > cleanup with tiny files was > required. Seems the tiniest irregularity on the edge > of the resist line is > amplified and an even edge nearly impossible. > > To get the kind of etchings that we need, the master > pattern will have to be > drawn large and photo reduced to actual size. > > I'd sure be interested in paying a share of the > setup costs to get a run of > a set of commonly used parts like control horns, > stitching, strut fittings > setc. Mass quantities of each item so you'd have a > stock that would last for > a long time. Nice thing about this is one master can > be used for both > scales. > > Any draftsmen out there interested? Any suggestions > as to what sort of parts > and how many of each would be useful? > > sp > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2924 **********************