WWI Digest 2899 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Hello by "Steven M.Perry" 2) RE: Hello by Crawford Neil 3) Morane H by "dfernet0" 4) RE: Hello by Crawford Neil 5) Re: Hello by "Matt Bittner" 6) RE: Hello by "dfernet0" 7) Spads in Argentina by "dfernet0" 8) New decals by "Matt Bittner" 9) More decals by "Matt Bittner" 10) RE: ot, good sport RE: Flat or shinier? by Crawford Neil 11) RE: Hello by "Gaston Graf" 12) RE: Spads in Argentina by Crawford Neil 13) Academy vs Revell Spad XIII by "Steven M.Perry" 14) Re: Hello by "Dale Beamish" 15) Re: "Above Flander's Fields" by LEONARDPeterL@aol.com 16) RE: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII by Crawford Neil 17) RE: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII by Crawford Neil 18) Re: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII by "Matt Bittner" 19) RE: Hello by Mark Vaughan-Jackson 20) Riffled sheet metal by "Steven M.Perry" 21) RE: Riffled sheet metal by "dfernet0" 22) RE: Riffled sheet metal by "dfernet0" 23) RE: Spads in Argentina by "dfernet0" 24) Re: Riffled sheet metal by "Steven M.Perry" 25) Airbrushes was RE: Hello by Mark Miller 26) RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello by Crawford Neil 27) RE: Hello by "Dale Sebring" 28) New images by "Matt Bittner" 29) RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello by "Matt Bittner" 30) RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello by Crawford Neil 31) Airbrushes was RE: Hello by "Lance Krieg" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 05:36:26 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: Hello Message-ID: <002901c06682$e165ca20$18f9aec7@default> > Hello and Seasons Greatings! > My name is Rob and I'm From Tampa, FL. Hi Rob and welcome from across the bay in St.Pete. You make it four list members in the bay area now. > What kit (in 1/72 scale) do you recommend for the person new not only to > WW1, but plastic models in general? I'd recommend the Airfix / Heller Roland C.II kit because the top wing mounts directly on the fuselage and it's mainplane struts are the "I" type. There is some rigging to do, but with the easily mounted top wing, you aren't out of patience by the time you get to it. All the others which have been recommended are excellent choices too, but I might add that the old Airfix Pup is also a good 1st WWI kit. It's a well made kit and includes a plastic jig for allignment of the wings. This is a nice feature for a first attempt at mounting a wing atop cabaine struts. > Second: > Is there a web site that tells the basic techniques of modeling, i.e., dry > brushing, shading, weathering, decaling, etc? I think others have given you some good tips on this, but I might add there are several books full of basic plastic modeling tips which are available at most hobby shops. > Third: > Comments on the following manufactures and their kits: > Roden/Toko/Eastern Express - Good kits, Roden tending to be better than Toko. Toko quit producing. Eastern Express has Toko molds. Roden is the original Toko people producing new and often better kits. > MPM - I did the HB W.29. The Toko kit is better. > Eduard - The newer 1/72 kits are world class the older ones require work. > Academy - Not worth messing with > Revell - Not bad, but they take varying amounts of work to make right > Pegasus - Much work involved in dressing out the parts due to the limited run technology, but excellent kits that build into nice models. > As you might be guessing, these are the one I have acquired so far, all in > 1/72 scale. You'll hear much banter on the List between proponents of the two main scales. This is done with tounges firmly in cheek. I build in any scale because they are all fun, besides I can crack on either side that way ;-) > Fourth: > What airbrush is most used? I have had an Aztek in the past, but it > disappeared in the last move ;( Get another, they work well and are fairly inexpensive. No airbrush works worth a hoot without a good air supply, so invest in a good one. A compressor with a tank or a CO2 bottle and regulator work well. Welcome to the best list on the web, your knowledge of the hobby and the period will grow faster here than anywhere else. sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:51:20 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Hello Message-ID: Hey, Is that a Paasche turbo? Whats it like? /Neil (who only has one 30 year old Badger 100XF) -----Original Message----- From: DAVID BURKE [mailto:dora9@sprynet.com] Sent: den 15 december 2000 04:28 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Hello Hi Rob! Another Floridian List member!- keep this up and my overall opinion of your state will improve! ;-) First off, why bother with 1/72? 1/48 is MUCH better for your eyesight and nerves! OT is 'On Topic' and ot is 'off-topic'. I have 5 airbrushes and I would say the major differences in them (other than the turbo) is nil. Welcome to Bedlam! DB ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 08:02:04 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "WW1 modeling Mail List" Subject: Morane H Message-ID: <00d301c06686$75a6f260$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Who was looking for Morane H references a while ago? Matt? Len? (these are the usual suspects) Here I find a nice picture: http://www.ajbs.com/musee/museepagehtml/Morane%20H.htm D. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 12:08:12 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Hello Message-ID: Hi Rob, Welcome to the list from rainy Sweden, I'm fairly new to the list, but I really enjoy it. You will find that some of the best modellers in the world are on this list, just enjoy. And if you feel you're not getting responses to your mails, don't give up, just carry on and the answers will come eventually. Just in case you don't like the suggestions for a first model, how about a SPAD, the revell 1/72 was one of my first OT models, and it's a very good kit, easy to build, and easy to rig, because all the rigging lines are short, and the long ones have an extra attachment in the middle. It has a slight disadvantage being slightly too big for 1/72 (more like 1/69 I've heard), but if you put it in the back of your collection no-one will notice. Best regards Neil - ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 05:13:07 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Hello Message-ID: <200012151113.DAA24665@hawk.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Fri, 15 Dec 2000 03:13:19 -0500 (EST), Witold Kozakiewicz wrote: > Toko has divided into Roden and Eastern Experes, they all has the same > level. Actually this isn't true. EE has been around actually longer than Toko. In the beginning they were all about reissuing other people's molds (the Temeks MoS Type I comes to mind). However, one thing is true - they bought all the WW1 Toko molds when the plastics division left Toko to become Roden (it was either that, or Toko actually folded and the people doing the plastics created Roden). Toko was into more than just plastic models. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 08:25:39 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Hello Message-ID: <011201c06689$c09f6c40$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> > Hello and Seasons Greatings! > My name is Rob and I'm From Tampa, FL. I am new to the list and WW1 > modeling. Welcome Rob! > What kit (in 1/72 scale) do you recommend for the person new not only to > WW1, but plastic models in general? Hmmmmm wide spectrum... On aircraft modelling, I think that you are already well advised. > Is there a web site that tells the basic techniques of modeling, i.e., dry > brushing, shading, weathering, decaling, etc? Already answered. > Comments on the following manufactures and their kits: Here I go: > Roden/Toko/Eastern Express Roden latest releases are the best. The first Toko kits (Siemens Schuckert/Pfalfz DXII) are quite tricky. As a rule of thumb, don't trust in the colours of the decals nor in the size of the provided struts. Not an easy choice for a first WW1 model. > MPM I don't have any, so I can't comment. > Eduard Best models. You may already seen the other messages. The Tamiya of WW1 modelling. > Academy Hmmmmm.... poor but inexpensive. They're good practice, tough > Revell I love their triplane, even when it's a little dated now that the Eduard and Roden are here. The Fokker D.VII is easy, but most of the schemes require extensive lozenge decalling. > Pegasus IMHO one of the best WW1 model manufacturers. Not only you'll find types that no other brand will do, but they are very accurate and bring nice metal parts and excellent decals. I've been told that the next year releases will have an improved method of manufacturing so they'll even better. A bit expensive for 1/72, but once you cut your teeth on basics, you'll love them. > As you might be guessing, these are the one I have acquired so far, all in > 1/72 scale. You're an intelligent fellow. May the Force be with you. > What airbrush is most used? Ha! Real men don't need airbrushes ;-) > And last.........What is "OT"? Old Time, On Topic, Off Topic??? Oozing Trauma. Over There. Oven Tailwheel. Oleg Taliapin. Old Token. Osh Tosh. Ooops T-t-t-that'sallfolks. D. from Argentina ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 08:41:15 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "WW1 modeling Mail List" Subject: Spads in Argentina Message-ID: <012201c0668b$eead5c80$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> I asked to my argie aviation expert (Cpt. Eloy Martín) and he told me that the French Military Mission n Argentina who arrived in 1919 (marketing competitors of the italians) brought Bleriot-built Spads VII and XIII from late 1918 to 1920. Their paint scheme was ex-works (I stand corrected) but for the argie roundels. There was another types of Spads: S.29 and S.54 but I don't know how they looked like or if they were WW1 warplanes. D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 10:31:00 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: New decals Message-ID: <200012151154.GAA18408@pease1.sr.unh.edu> I'm looking through the Mister Kit email update, and they list 1/72nd four color lozenge put out by Eagle Strike. This is the first I have heard of it. Anybody have more details? Matt Bittner _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 10:31:48 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: More decals Message-ID: <200012151154.GAA18452@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Whoops. Should have paged down. Looks like Eagle Strike also lists 1/48th four color. Matt Bittner _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 12:53:40 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: ot, good sport RE: Flat or shinier? Message-ID: Pedro wrote: >Well, >Portugal did fly SPADS Well done Portugal! >and let me just add Eusebio not as a celebrated pilot but as one of the best >ever football (real footbal not that cross polinisation between rugby and >hide and seek you americans play ;-)) players in the universe. I don't care >much (at all) about football, but he was pure magic. Yes Eusebio was a wonderful player, I remember him well from '66, I have one book about football, and it's by Eusebio. You also have Figo nowadays, yet another England killer, I should hate them, but I love them anyway, like Maradona. > Pedro And to turn a complete circle and get this back OT where it started, last night I resprayed my Ni28 with a mix of water, klear and (less) tamiya flatbase. I couldn't resist it, sometimes you just can't let things be. Anyway it turned out great, the milkyness disappeared, and no crazing yet. Now its a fraction too shiny, but I prefer that, after all dope is shiny. /Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 13:05:48 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Hello Message-ID: Rob, also a heartily welcome from Luxembourg in Europe. Altough I do not have much time left for modeling I enjoy it a lot to be on this loony list. It is really a great source of information you can't find anywhere else but what makes it really special are the members from the many different countries who make this list some kind of a big international family. with kind regards Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de PS: A personal message to Lee: I did not find the time yet to answer your lengthy offlist mail but will do that as soon as my time permits. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 13:11:06 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Spads in Argentina Message-ID: Thank you Diego, Now you remind me I think I have something on Argentinean Spad 7's. I think the S54 was an airliner, and the S29 was a side-by-side trainer, both definitely ot, I will check that. Also thank you for the interesting piece about early Argentinean aviation yesterday. The Nieuport 29 is something I'd certainly like to see a kit of. Is there a web-site with early Argentinean aviation, I know there is one about Chile. Best regards Neil >I asked to my argie aviation expert (Cpt. Eloy Mart=EDn) and he told me that >the French Military Mission n Argentina who arrived in 1919 (marketing >competitors of the italians) brought Bleriot-built Spads VII and XIII from >late 1918 to 1920. Their paint scheme was ex-works (I stand corrected) but >for the argie roundels. >There was another types of Spads: S.29 and S.54 but I don't know how they >looked like or if they were WW1 warplanes.- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 07:15:59 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII Message-ID: <007301c06690$c95839a0$18f9aec7@default> Rob's question about Academy WWI kits got me wondering, so I dragged out an Academy Spad and a Revell Spad. The Revell is definitely bigger. The Revell wings can easily be cut and sanded to size. A mm off the LE and each tip should do it. Comparing the two fuselages, when lined up at the front, the wing notches match and the cockpits are barely off. but the Revell tail is longer. This is an easy fix, just wack the extra tail off and ectend the notch for the stab forward a bit. The Revell Fusealage is a bit deeper too, but if you take a razor saw and cut each piece in two front to back down the center line, by the time you dress the edges and rejoin them, you should be right in the ballpark. A good bit of surgery to bring the Revell Spad to scale, but less trouble than dealing with the washboard ribs and stringers on the Academy kit. Definite need for an Eduard or Roden Spad XIII (VII too) in 1/Bittner2nd scale sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 05:27:47 -0700 From: "Dale Beamish" To: Subject: Re: Hello Message-ID: <00d201c06692$702e1320$662eb8a1@darcy> Rob Welcome from *ice bound* Canada. When I was committed to what we call the list almost three years ago ... I was told to take medication regularly and I'd be fine. Same holds true today. A nicer, more knowledgeable bunch of people you won't find anywhere. If you have an interest in WW1 modeling ... this is THE place. Dale ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 07:33:53 EST From: LEONARDPeterL@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: "Above Flander's Fields" Message-ID: <9a.d769c6d.276b69b1@aol.com> I don't have this book, but coincidentaly was a ble to peruse a copy about twelve hours ago. Looks good. Lots of piccys I never saw before and the text up to the standard you would expect cheers Peter L ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 13:42:06 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII Message-ID: That sounds like a very good plan, I would like to add that something should be done about the baloon tyres, one way I once did, was to just stick them in my "dremel" and lathe them down to size. Actually I've given up on both the Airfix and Revell Spad, I just build them straight out of the box, as quickies, I keep meaning to do one properly as you suggest but something else always gets in the way, so far I've built nine of them, but only one of them is even slightly good. As you say I wish we could get a good one soon, I'm looking forward to the Pegasus Spad XII, I've had one on order for a couple of months now. As to the Accadamy/Esci/Fuji "thing" I took one look and said "forget it"! /Neil -----Original Message----- From: Steven M.Perry [mailto:smperry@mindspring.com] Sent: den 15 december 2000 13:20 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII Rob's question about Academy WWI kits got me wondering, so I dragged out an Academy Spad and a Revell Spad. The Revell is definitely bigger. The Revell wings can easily be cut and sanded to size. A mm off the LE and each tip should do it. Comparing the two fuselages, when lined up at the front, the wing notches match and the cockpits are barely off. but the Revell tail is longer. This is an easy fix, just wack the extra tail off and ectend the notch for the stab forward a bit. The Revell Fusealage is a bit deeper too, but if you take a razor saw and cut each piece in two front to back down the center line, by the time you dress the edges and rejoin them, you should be right in the ballpark. A good bit of surgery to bring the Revell Spad to scale, but less trouble than dealing with the washboard ribs and stringers on the Academy kit. Definite need for an Eduard or Roden Spad XIII (VII too) in 1/Bittner2nd scale sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 13:54:24 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII Message-ID: Just thought of something else here. The one part of the Revell Spad that I have checked properly is the radiator, that is dead on scale for a Spad XI and XVI, so presumably for a XIII too, so that confirms that the fuselage isn't too far off scale. It's nicely moulded (as is the whole Revell kit) so I used it on both my scratch-builds. /Neil - ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 07:19:32 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Academy vs Revell Spad XIII Message-ID: <200012151319.FAA27972@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Fri, 15 Dec 2000 07:20:22 -0500 (EST), Steven M.Perry wrote: > A good bit of surgery to bring the Revell Spad to scale, but less trouble > than dealing with the washboard ribs and stringers on the Academy kit. Ah, sounds like for once a Revell kit is more work than a Meikraft. If you're lucky, try tracking down a Meikraft SPAD. Yes, there is work involved construction-wise, but none accuracy-wise. > Definite need for an Eduard or Roden Spad XIII (VII too) in 1/Bittner2nd > scale Thanks, sp. :-) And you're right, and Eduard SPAD 13 (and 7 for that matter) is definitely needed. I personally would rather see Eduard do it than Roden, but if Eduard doesn't want to come out with one, I'll take the Roden anyway. Assuming it's accurate, of course... Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:59:50 -0400 From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Hello Message-ID: Rob, Hello and welcome from Eastern Canada (snowy Newfoundland to be exact.) As expected the rest of these lunatic listees have answered pretty much all your questions. As for questions on tips and techniques it is worth spending an afternoon doing a thorough read of the list site http://pease1.sr.unh.edu. Not only is there a wealth of photo stuff, built models, in progress, museum pieces ETC, there are also endless links to just about any kind of WWI site you'd need. It's worth the time...plus you get to ooh and ahh over the work the rest of these reprobates produce. Some of the best modelers in the business in my opinion Mark V-J ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:09:38 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Riffled sheet metal Message-ID: <009101c066a0$a98d8ac0$18f9aec7@default> I've been fooling with how to replicate this effect and have had some success. Here's what worked for me I used some of the silver Rub & Buff (paste in a tube available at craft stores). First I laid down a smooth layer with a swab and let it dry as a base. I had to make a tool do the swirls with, so I chucked a piece of round bamboo the diameter I wanted into the dremel. This little dowel was trimmed and sanded off exactly flat and square on the business end (important). Put a dab of the silver paste on the tip and run it gently on a flat surface to "season" it With the base dry, apply another light coat and make the swirls before it dries. Carefully make the swirls by gently touching the surface straight on with the flat end of the spinning dowel. Dip the tip in a bit of the paste occasionally. Keeping the tip flush to the surface is critical, any angle and one edge digs in. Takes a light touch but with a little practice on scrap you can produce decent riffled metalwork. sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:24:53 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Riffled sheet metal Message-ID: <017301c066a2$cd2d3140$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Great tip Dennis! But the part on the tool seems tricky. What if you file/sand the tip of the bamboo dowel like a hemisphere? That would allow to tilt the motor tool without risk of putting an edge against the metal surface. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Steven M.Perry To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 11:13 AM Subject: Riffled sheet metal > I've been fooling with how to replicate this effect and have had some > success. > > Here's what worked for me > > I used some of the silver Rub & Buff (paste in a tube available at craft > stores). First I laid down a smooth layer with a swab and let it dry as a > base. I had to make a tool do the swirls with, so I chucked a piece of round > bamboo the diameter I wanted into the dremel. This little dowel was trimmed > and sanded off exactly flat and square on the business end (important). Put > a dab of the silver paste on the tip and run it gently on a flat surface to > "season" it > > With the base dry, apply another light coat and make the swirls before it > dries. Carefully make the swirls by gently touching the surface straight on > with the flat end of the spinning dowel. Dip the tip in a bit of the paste > occasionally. Keeping the tip flush to the surface is critical, any angle > and one edge digs in. Takes a light touch but with a little practice on > scrap you can produce decent riffled metalwork. > > sp > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:30:31 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Riffled sheet metal Message-ID: <018101c066a3$94631e00$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Dennis? Did I wrote Dennis? Yikes, sorry Steve. Sorry Dennis the Alz... Alz... Alzthingie strikes again. D. ----- Original Message ----- From: dfernet0 To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 11:32 AM Subject: RE: Riffled sheet metal > Great tip Dennis! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:32:59 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Spads in Argentina Message-ID: <018201c066a3$ed98f260$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Neil! Regarding Nieuport 29, I've trying to get a picture of an argie 29 since last year for the benefit of Mr. Fletcher Jr., but I've found none yet. For early argie aviation pictures go to my site http://ww1stuff.freeservers.com/argie.htm or there is some OT and ot in http://www.faa.mil.ar/antecedentes/antecedentes.html D. ----- Original Message ----- From: Crawford Neil To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 9:16 AM Subject: RE: Spads in Argentina > Thank you Diego, Now you remind me I think I have something on Argentinean > Spad 7's. I think the S54 was an airliner, and the S29 was a side-by-side > trainer, both definitely ot, I will check that. Also thank you for the > interesting piece about early Argentinean aviation yesterday. The Nieuport > 29 > is something I'd certainly like to see a kit of. Is there a web-site with > early Argentinean aviation, I know there is one about Chile. > Best regards Neil ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:39:00 -0500 From: "Steven M.Perry" To: Subject: Re: Riffled sheet metal Message-ID: <009d01c066a4$c40e11e0$18f9aec7@default> > But the part on the tool seems tricky. What if you file/sand the tip of the > bamboo dowel like a hemisphere? That would allow to tilt the motor tool > without risk of putting an edge against the metal surface You only get a crescent and not a circle on flat areas, however it might work better on compound curves. Good idea to make up both shapes of tip. dp ;-) ------------------------------ Date: 15 Dec 2000 07:09:16 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Airbrushes was RE: Hello Message-ID: <20001215150916.5743.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> On Thu, 14 December 2000, "Chris Banyai-Riepl" wrote: > As for airbrushes, I know of people using Thayer & Chandler, Iwata, and > Paasche brushes and I've tried all of those brands myself. I personally use > a Thayer & Chandler, but I could easily move to either Iwata or Paasche. > The big question is whether you want to use a double-action brush or a > single-action brush, and that's mostly a matter of taste. I've gotten the > same results with an ancient Paasche F1 single-action airbrush that I have > with my current double-action Thayer & Chandler. Hi all I have about 4 airbrushes but they are all about 40 yrs old. They were my fathers - and I think he had them since he was in art school. The one I've had the most succsess with is a double action Paasche. There's also an old thayer and chandler that never worked. And then this one which is apparently valuble, a Paasche A-B (I think) its got a turbine - and it spins up when you use it and a little wire sticks out into the air flow. I took it into an art store once and the guy behind the counter said it was an extremly good airbrush and could make a 1/32 inch line but probably wasn't good for hobby applications. Then he offered to buy it. I've tried a couple of times to get it to working but failed. Anybody know anything about this airbrush - and have you used it on models? and is there any good reason to invest in a new airbrush? I don't think the technology has changed - and the one I'm using seems to work OK but I've never used anything else - BTW - welcome Rob - you came to the right place Mark Miller Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:19:39 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello Message-ID: I think you can only use ink in them. I have a brochure on that Pasche A-B turbo somewhere. I used to want one, but when I realised they're only for illustrators I lost interest. It probably is valuable, IIRC it was terribly expensive. The Ferarri of air-brushes! /Neil - Hi all I have about 4 airbrushes but they are all about 40 yrs old. They were my fathers - and I think he had them since he was in art school. The one I've had the most succsess with is a double action Paasche. There's also an old thayer and chandler that never worked. And then this one which is apparently valuble, a Paasche A-B (I think) its got a turbine - and it spins up when you use it and a little wire sticks out into the air flow. I took it into an art store once and the guy behind the counter said it was an extremly good airbrush and could make a 1/32 inch line but probably wasn't good for hobby applications. Then he offered to buy it. I've tried a couple of times to get it to working but failed. Anybody know anything about this airbrush - and have you used it on models? and is there any good reason to invest in a new airbrush? I don't think the technology has changed - and the one I'm using seems to work OK but I've never used anything else - BTW - welcome Rob - you came to the right place Mark Miller Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping! http://www.shopping.altavista.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 08:19:18 -0700 From: "Dale Sebring" To: Subject: RE: Hello Message-ID: <004d01c066aa$65bc8120$ecb58dd0@main> Hi Rob, Welcome from Idaho & Spudland. This is by far the greatest group of WWI people in the world!!! Just soak up knowledge, but most of all enjoy yourself. Best regards, Dale S. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:23:16 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: New images Message-ID: <200012151522.HAA28800@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> I just finished uploading images of Graham Hunter's well done Bristol M1.c. Matt Bittner WW1 Modeling Site Assistant Editor :-) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:24:20 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello Message-ID: <200012151524.HAA02107@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Fri, 15 Dec 2000 10:24:38 -0500 (EST), Crawford Neil wrote: > I think you can only use ink in them. I have a brochure on that > Pasche A-B turbo somewhere. I used to want one, but when I > realised they're only for illustrators I lost interest. > It probably is valuable, IIRC it was terribly expensive. I have a friend who used it to apply the "squiggly camo" on a 1/72nd Hetzer. Beautiful! Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:27:13 +0100 From: Crawford Neil To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello Message-ID: With proper paint in?/Neil -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bittner [mailto:tbittners@sprintmail.com] Sent: den 15 december 2000 16:28 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Airbrushes was RE: Hello On Fri, 15 Dec 2000 10:24:38 -0500 (EST), Crawford Neil wrote: > I think you can only use ink in them. I have a brochure on that > Pasche A-B turbo somewhere. I used to want one, but when I > realised they're only for illustrators I lost interest. > It probably is valuable, IIRC it was terribly expensive. I have a friend who used it to apply the "squiggly camo" on a 1/72nd Hetzer. Beautiful! Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:33:19 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Airbrushes was RE: Hello Message-ID: Over the years, I have used a lot of different airbrushes, too, including some that were mighty expensive. Actually, I have pitched out or given away all but the Testors/Aztek, which produces sufficiently fine lines for my needs. Double action, parts are easy to find, it doesn't need to be spotless to work, but is easy to clean. It's almost impossible to bend the neeedle point, too, which wasn't the case with a Paasche. And it's cheap. I've never been a very good airbrusher, though, which is one of the reasons I kept trying different ones. Welcome, Rob, from Iowa, where the temperature is expected to get above zero today, so we can get a little more snow. Lance ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2899 **********************