WWI Digest 2878 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Hannover Fuselage Lozenge Decals by "Laskodi" 2) RE: Richtofen's cowl by "Gaston Graf" 3) Airborne Cameras by Shane Weier 4) Re: Hermann Goering by "Michael Kendix" 5) Plywood Fuse Panel by NodalPoint@aol.com 6) Re: Sopwith Camel Fighter Ace by "Andy Kemp" 7) Re: Airborne Cameras and Other Goodies by "Lance Krieg" 8) Number One by "Ken Acosta" 9) RE: 1:48 Gotha-Ursinus UR.1 by Shane Weier 10) RE: wing decals by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 11) Re: Hannover Fuselage Lozenge Decals by CAUhlir@aol.com 12) Re: Hermann Goering by "Lance Krieg" 13) Re: Hermann Goering by "Michael Kendix" 14) Re: Hermann Goering by "DAVID BURKE" 15) Re: Hermann Goering by "DAVID BURKE" 16) RE: wing decals by Shane Weier 17) Re: Hermann Goering by TomTheAeronut@aol.com 18) Re: Plywood Fuse Panel by Mark Miller 19) RE: Hermann Goering by "Gaston Graf" 20) A-H Cockpit Details by Todd Hayes 21) Re: Hermann Goering by "Lance Krieg" 22) Re: Hermann Goering by Todd Hayes 23) Re: A-H Cockpit Details by Steven M Perry 24) Re: Hermann Goering by "Hans Trauner" 25) RE: Plywood Fuse Panel by Brent Theobald 26) RE: Number One by Brent Theobald 27) RE: wing decals by Brent Theobald 28) RE: A-H Cockpit Details by Brent Theobald ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 12:59:34 -0800 From: "Laskodi" To: "Post WW1 List" Subject: Re: Hannover Fuselage Lozenge Decals Message-ID: <001001c06090$9ad0b4a0$233819d0@laskodi> Thanks for all the replies, but I still have a few questions. <<>> Dave, If you have this sheet could you tell me the approximate colors on it (ie, lt. blue, dk. green, pink, etc) and the average size (ie 4-5 mm, etc). I don't have it and would hate to waste the money to just buy it. Most interested in size of the polygons, as the Hannovers were pretty large in 1/48. Color is secondary importance since as you noted they were oversprayed with dark blue. Thanks, <<>> Great idea Lance. Doh! Why didn't I think of it? But I am dangerous with sharp objects!!!!! Thanks, ---------Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 22:00:25 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Richtofen's cowl Message-ID: Hi Sharon, many thanks for the kind offer. Below is my street address: Gaston Graf 18 Viichtener Strooss L-8620 Schandel Luxembourg Europe sincerely Gaston ;o) > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Sharon Henderson > Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 3:20 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Richtofen's cowl > > > > Hi Gaston, > > Send me your mailing address offline and I'll send you a copy of > the article. (And thanks, Bob, for the plug! ) > > Sharon > > >Oh thanks - that info is worth to add to my article about > Wolff's last fight. > > > >Ehmmm....where can I get that article from? > > > > Gaston Graf > >(ggraf@vo.lu) > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > Powered by Microsith Lookout - http://www.microsith.com/ > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 07:12:54 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi'" Subject: Airborne Cameras Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748921@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Hi all, A few days ago someone asked about aerial cameras, and I've quite forgotten who it was. At any rate, yesterday my copy of the 1914-18 Journal arrived, and one of the articles (about 10-12 pages) is about exactly that. Plenty of detail about who made them, which versions where in use when, how the plates were changed (on both manual and automatic feed cameras), some unfortunately small and poor photos and some decent drawings Whoever was after this material - let me know and I'll photocopy the relevant pages for you. Rest of this issue also quite entertaining though some of it is already familiar from elsewhere. Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 21:15:16 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: >From: "Lance Krieg" >I'm surprised that he elicits such a knee-jerk reaction from so many > >people... I am not surprised. Goering is known most for his leading role in the Nazi Party and for his complicity in their "activities". >I would guess that the Hermann Goering of 1918 was a very different >man >from what he became. Maybe. Did something happen to change his personality? >Not a Goering fan, personally, but he was no cartoon character. Absolutely, Goering was quite real. Michael _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 16:23:07 EST From: NodalPoint@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Plywood Fuse Panel Message-ID: Hi, I would like some advice on using some thin plywood on a Camel I'm working on. I thinks some others out there have used plywood on their models as well. I bought some 0.4mm thick birch ply and was wondering how to apply it to the top deck. Even though its the thinnest I could find, I think I need to sand it down quite a bit. Try to get it paper thin. Would you steam it to get it to shape? How should I attach it to the fuse? CA or epoxy? I'm on digest mode so thank you in advance for your replies. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:37:26 -0000 From: "Andy Kemp" To: Subject: Re: Sopwith Camel Fighter Ace Message-ID: <006e01c06094$8e55fc40$06418cd4@5120> > Say, has anyone heard of the book "Sopwith Camel Fighter Ace" > by Robert M. Todd? Is it any good? It's an excellent book. Bob Todd flew with 17 USAS, and this book charts his progress through training, into squadron & captivity etc - and is stuffed with good photos. Lots of letter extracts, combat reports etc etc. Marvin Skelton had an input, and some of the photos are from the late Steve St Martin's collection. I picked up a copy when it was new back in 1978 - old bxxxxr that I am ... Andy K ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:29:08 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Airborne Cameras and Other Goodies Message-ID: If anyone wants to compile a decent picture book of all sorts of aerial paraphernalia, I'd sure buy a copy. Right now, I'm looking for information on the contents of British flying boats; sea anchors, pigeon coops, signal flags, wireless sets, intercoms, electric heating elements, emergency food/water containers, first aid kits, tool boxes. It would be nice to have a compendium showing these and many other items, arranged by country or function, with photos and drawings... like Woodman's armament book, but for all the other stuff carried aloft. Whoever undertakes the compliation can thank me for the idea in the book's forward, and present me an autographed copy. Soon, I hope! Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:40:23 -0600 From: "Ken Acosta" To: Subject: Number One Message-ID: List- I am not a prolific modeler. In fact, my building rate is better measured in years-per-model rather than models-per-year. I recently completed a 1/48 ot thoroughbred from a kit that is generally considered to be a "box-shaker." From start to finish, this box-shaker took five years to complete. Granted, I did incorporate aftermarket and scratch upgrades as well as custom markings, but still.... five years?! Within the past year, I decided that my next kit would be one of those flimsy canvas and strut machines from the '14-'18 time frame. I've spent this past year semi-lurking on this list in an effort to equip myself as well as possible regarding good kits, building/painting/rigging techniques, historical appreciation, and general levity. Twelve months of observation leads me to the following precise technical conclusion: This list rocks! >From all that I have read on this list, I narrowed my choice for first OT kit to these: Merlin Salmson 2A2 ICM Ilya Muromets Aeroclub Fe.2b Eduard Nieuport 17 Profi The Ni.17 won, but it was a squeaker and I might change my mind tomorrow. Just so you know. Anyhow, this week I pulled out the little bipe and started snipping parts from sprues and getting a feel for what lay ahead. Boy, is this thing small!! I am an admitted (and committed) charter member of the AMS club, so I immediately entertained ideas for improving the realism of what looks to be a terrific kit. I'll keep the list posted on my adventure. This one shouldn't take more than a couple of years. And so it begins... KA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 07:43:02 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: 1:48 Gotha-Ursinus UR.1 Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748922@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Mark says: > I agree, the good old Canadian loonie just slipped beneath > the waves of 65 cents US to the CDN dollar. Oh great. Make my day. :-( I'm awaiting a postal note written in Canadian $$$ and the A$ is rising while the Can$ is falling. That means that by the time I cash the bloody thing it'll be worth even less. Mmmm,OTOH since the A$ has risen about 3% against the US$ in the last two weeks.... Ah to heck with it. Anyone want to go back to bartering? > but even getting a steal of a deal like $7 for a > still sealed 48th scale Jenny, after shipping and exchange > rate I'm still getting up towards $25 to $30 CDN. Huh. I feel the pain. Comments on the list about buying Glencoe kits "for the decals", or picking up "cheap" Revell/Monogram kits are quite reasonable in some places, but not quite relevant to me when they cost as much as Tamiya/Hasegawa and more than Eduard here! Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 22:39:27 +0100 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: RE: wing decals Message-ID: > With decent setting solutions, the decal will shrink into the aileron gap pretty well on its own. > If you slice it after it dries, and apply a little more Micro-Sol (or equivalent), you have cut > the decal into separate parts without the danger or labor of applying two decals. I can only echo Lance, as it is exactly how I used to do it. > When I was a kid, the decals were the best part of the model. Now I hate putting them on, > since it's not only tedious, but a lot can go wrong and cause major problems... or is it just me? Yup. I've noticed this as well. A few weeks ago my four years old son recalled me all that enthusiasm manifested during decal application. He simply couldn't withstand and wait until paint would have dried to put decals onto his tiny Dr.I. For me decal application is now disliked part of the job, especially because it is to be done at the end of the work, and improper result can ruin the look of the model. One may count it as one of AMS symptomes, but we are more demanding and want decals to stop looking like decals. In fact I prefer spraying markings using vinyl masks as far as I can. Some of my -ot- ww2 models do not carry any decals at all... Tomasz ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 16:56:48 EST From: CAUhlir@aol.com To: Subject: Re: Hannover Fuselage Lozenge Decals Message-ID: <38.ef557b5.276161a0@aol.com> I used the 1/48 Americal Gotha lozenge but did the rear areas of the aircraft in 5 color standard lozenge. A few coats of future colored with midnight blue did a great job of melding the lozenge patterns together. Candice ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 15:58:27 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: ".... Did something happen to change his personality?" Yes. Wounds, defeat, drug addiction, world depression at its nadir in Germany, ascension to the heights of National Socialism. All of which might create change... "... but he was no cartoon character. Absolutely, Goering was quite real." And that's the point precisely. The journalist who marveled at the "banality of evil" in Eichmann had been shown the monster behind the dilligent little bureaucrat. If we treat Hermann as a fat, rouged clown in his comic-opera uniforms, we miss both the man AND the monster. Sorry, this veered ot, so I'll shut up. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 22:12:09 From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: >From: "Lance Krieg" >Absolutely, Goering was quite real." > >And that's the point precisely. The journalist who marveled at the > >"banality of evil" in Eichmann had been shown the monster behind the > >dilligent little bureaucrat. If we treat Hermann as a fat, rouged >clown >in his comic-opera uniforms, we miss both the man AND the >monster. I could not have said it better. Michael _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 16:31:02 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: <002c01c0609d$942d42a0$b4e179a5@com> > Not a Goering fan, personally, but he was no cartoon character. > > Lance > Granted. DB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 16:32:25 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: <002d01c0609d$94de4320$b4e179a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kendix" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 4:17 PM Subject: Re: Hermann Goering > >From: "Lance Krieg" > > >Absolutely, Goering was quite real." > > > >And that's the point precisely. The journalist who marveled at the > > >"banality of evil" in Eichmann had been shown the monster behind the > > >dilligent little bureaucrat. If we treat Hermann as a fat, rouged >clown > >in his comic-opera uniforms, we miss both the man AND the >monster. > > I could not have said it better. > > Michael Ditto DB > ____________________________________________________________________________ _________ > Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 08:41:05 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: wing decals Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C7101748923@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Lance mentions: > When I was a kid, the decals were the best part of the model. > Now I hate putting them on, since it's not only tedious, but > a lot can go wrong and cause major problems... or is it just me? Still the best part for me. I cannot recall the last time a decal caused me trouble, and that includes any of the supposedly "impossible" decals included in Eduard kits. Maybe I have a soft touch or something that aids me, but I can say for sure that the change that comes over any model when the markings go on still floats my boat Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 17:44:10 EST From: TomTheAeronut@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: In a message dated 12/7/00 4:16:37 PM EST, mkendix@hotmail.com writes: << >I would guess that the Hermann Goering of 1918 was a very different >man >from what he became. >> According to everyone who flew with him except Bruno Loerzer, who must have been born with a nose a certain shade of brown, he was an asshole then and an asshole later and an asshole in between. More than a few of the JG1 flyers kept hoping he'd be shot down after he assumed command. As I recall Willi Gabriel couldn't stand to be in the same room with him and Josef Jacobs publicly accused him of being a thief. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: 7 Dec 2000 14:53:47 -0800 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Plywood Fuse Panel Message-ID: <20001207225347.27702.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> On Thu, 07 December 2000, NodalPoint@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I would like some advice on using some thin plywood on a Camel I'm working > on. I thinks some others out there have used plywood on their models as well. > > I bought some 0.4mm thick birch ply and was wondering how to apply it to the > top deck. Even though its the thinnest I could find, I think I need to sand > it down quite a bit. Try to get it paper thin. > > Would you steam it to get it to shape? > > How should I attach it to the fuse? CA or epoxy? > > I'm on digest mode so thank you in advance for your replies. > > Steve Steve I used 1/64 inch ply on the alb c3 - and I think it would be flexible enough to cover the ply sections on the camel. which I believe is just the area around the cockpit. The biggest pain is shaving off the plastic from the area where the ply goes so that it is flush . I suppose you could sand off a ply layer - but I didn't. I found that CA was the way to go. Cut the ply alittle wide so that it overhangs the sides, but take care to make sure the length fits perfectly into the shaved out area and flush with the plastic front and back. Cutting it wide also gives you a place to put your fingers without glueing them to the model. so - when your ready to assemble - apply the CA to the fuse and then press the plywood into place - hold it for a minute - or less - then trim/sand the edges flush to the sides. also - consider using CA as "varnish" for the ply - gives a surprisingly nice finish one more thing - the edges are rather ugly - as with all ply but a little paint should fix it up with no problem. anyway - this worked for me - good luck Mark ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 00:07:08 +0100 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Hermann Goering Message-ID: As far as I know from reading between the lines of Ernst Udets book he was not a big friend of Göring either. Befor he put his life to an end he wrote the words "Eiserner, warum hast du mich verlassen" (Ironman, why did you leave me). Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > TomTheAeronut@aol.com > Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 11:50 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Hermann Goering > > > In a message dated 12/7/00 4:16:37 PM EST, mkendix@hotmail.com writes: > > << >I would guess that the Hermann Goering of 1918 was a very > different >man > >from what he became. >> > > According to everyone who flew with him except Bruno Loerzer, who > must have > been born with a nose a certain shade of brown, he was an asshole > then and an > asshole later and an asshole in between. More than a few of the > JG1 flyers > kept hoping he'd be shot down after he assumed command. As I > recall Willi > Gabriel couldn't stand to be in the same room with him and Josef Jacobs > publicly accused him of being a thief. > > Tom Cleaver > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:10:55 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: A-H Cockpit Details Message-ID: <20001207231055.16407.qmail@web9009.mail.yahoo.com> I'm interested in finding some p.e. details for my A-H a/c. Can anyone tell me where I could get them? And also if there is much difference between German and A-H cockpit fittings and instruments? I'm hoping a combination of Tom's Mworks and Copper State details will work. The kits I'm thinking about in particular are the Aviatik 30.40 and the WKF D.I by Alliance. TH __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 17:18:58 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: TC has trotted out some old Goering stories, so I will reluctantly take up my cudgel - in the interest of history, not Nazis. ANYTHING written about Hermann Goering, from 1933 to date, will be colored by the passions and politics of Allies or Axis, and should probably be disregarded. I don't suppose Willi Gabriel told that story much before 1945... The characters of theThird Reich are too close, and the consequences of their actions still reverberating daily around the world. It took 200 years to get a reasoned biography of Napoleon, and Robert E.Lee still evades biographers. It'll take a lot longer to consider Goering or Hitler dispassionately. Hell, I'd never even consider making a model of any of his planes; how'd I end up in the middle of this thread? Once again, Tom has lured my ot! I'm REALLY shutting up now. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 15:20:26 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: <20001207232026.17517.qmail@web9009.mail.yahoo.com> Ernst Udet also had a strong personality conflict with him while Goering commanded JG1. Willi Gabriel hated him with a passion. His style of command created feelings of detestation by members of JG1. He seemed to be a stickler for perogatives of his rank. Who has seen the photo of Goering inspecting his white Fokker? His ground crew standing ridgedly at attention contrasts with the appearance of comraderie shown by many other pilots and their ground crews in photos. TH --- TomTheAeronut@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 12/7/00 4:16:37 PM EST, > mkendix@hotmail.com writes: > > << >I would guess that the Hermann Goering of 1918 > was a very different >man > >from what he became. >> > > According to everyone who flew with him except Bruno > Loerzer, who must have > been born with a nose a certain shade of brown, he > was an asshole then and an > asshole later and an asshole in between. More than > a few of the JG1 flyers > kept hoping he'd be shot down after he assumed > command. As I recall Willi > Gabriel couldn't stand to be in the same room with > him and Josef Jacobs > publicly accused him of being a thief. > > Tom Cleaver __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 18:39:10 -0500 From: Steven M Perry To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: A-H Cockpit Details Message-ID: <20001207.183915.-4144039.1.stevenperry@juno.com> > I'm interested in finding some p.e. details for my A-H > a/c. Todd I am doing an A-H Alb D.II and I'm noting some differences from the German built machines. I have one cockpit photo of an OEFFAG D.III. The main differences were dictated by the internally mounted machine guns which necessitated the removal of the little quarter round switch panel on the stbd. side. There is also a different handle on the joystick. Can anyone tell me where I could get them? I couldn't find any commercial products, so I ended up scratching most of the details that I could see in the photo. > also if there is much difference between German and > A-H cockpit fittings and instruments? The gauges were similar in appearance to German ones. Round dials, cylindrical case and large round flange on the back.. The switches were also similar to German ones, round body with relative large handles. The Bosch magneto switch was identical. Not much help I'm afraid, but your best bet is to find as close a photo as possible and scratch what you can't adapt from your PE spares box. sp ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 01:25:01 +0100 From: "Hans Trauner" To: Subject: Re: Hermann Goering Message-ID: <01b601c060ad$4de16640$20a272d4@custom-pc> Take a look at the photographs. There is only one on the records which shows him smiling ( it's the pic with all the PLM-wearers like Udet, Jacobs, Schleich etc.) Later on he was proud of his harsh commanding style which he developed as leader of JG1. And no one can tell me that a man can change completely in such a short period from the end of the was up to the Beer Hall Putsch. He got a shot in his testicles here, but he decided to march with Herrn Hitler before he was wounded. Tom is simply right. Hans ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 18:31:12 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Plywood Fuse Panel Message-ID: <0C9947CED778D411B8BD0008C7FAA642A5203E@emerald.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Howdy! I've heard the thin wood veneer that lines some cigar tubes works very well for this. It's already paper thin. I've saved some, but I haven't had a chance to use it. Good luck! Brent -----Original Message----- From: NodalPoint@aol.com [mailto:NodalPoint@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 3:28 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Plywood Fuse Panel Hi, I would like some advice on using some thin plywood on a Camel I'm working on. I thinks some others out there have used plywood on their models as well. I bought some 0.4mm thick birch ply and was wondering how to apply it to the top deck. Even though its the thinnest I could find, I think I need to sand it down quite a bit. Try to get it paper thin. Would you steam it to get it to shape? How should I attach it to the fuse? CA or epoxy? I'm on digest mode so thank you in advance for your replies. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 18:35:55 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Number One Message-ID: <0C9947CED778D411B8BD0008C7FAA642A5203F@emerald.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Howdy! Wow! What a list of choices for first OT project. I think you picked the correct it as far as buildability. This kit offers you the best chance of completing a model successfully in the next two years. A 1/48 Fokker D.VII would be me advice for best starter kit because it doesn't have much in the way of rigging, has some very interesting paint schemes and (perhaps most importantly) it isn't French! :-) Good luck! Let us know how you do. Brent -----Original Message----- From: Ken Acosta [mailto:KACOSTA@colsa.com] Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 3:47 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Number One List- I am not a prolific modeler. In fact, my building rate is better measured in years-per-model rather than models-per-year. I recently completed a 1/48 ot thoroughbred from a kit that is generally considered to be a "box-shaker." From start to finish, this box-shaker took five years to complete. Granted, I did incorporate aftermarket and scratch upgrades as well as custom markings, but still.... five years?! Within the past year, I decided that my next kit would be one of those flimsy canvas and strut machines from the '14-'18 time frame. I've spent this past year semi-lurking on this list in an effort to equip myself as well as possible regarding good kits, building/painting/rigging techniques, historical appreciation, and general levity. Twelve months of observation leads me to the following precise technical conclusion: This list rocks! >From all that I have read on this list, I narrowed my choice for first OT kit to these: Merlin Salmson 2A2 ICM Ilya Muromets Aeroclub Fe.2b Eduard Nieuport 17 Profi The Ni.17 won, but it was a squeaker and I might change my mind tomorrow. Just so you know. Anyhow, this week I pulled out the little bipe and started snipping parts from sprues and getting a feel for what lay ahead. Boy, is this thing small!! I am an admitted (and committed) charter member of the AMS club, so I immediately entertained ideas for improving the realism of what looks to be a terrific kit. I'll keep the list posted on my adventure. This one shouldn't take more than a couple of years. And so it begins... KA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 18:40:02 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: wing decals Message-ID: <0C9947CED778D411B8BD0008C7FAA642A52040@emerald.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Howdy! I have been in the same boat recently. The thought of lozenging another wing in any scale makes me lose interest abruptly. Matt set a good example by having a brief OT foray. Ya'll should have seen the resin dust fly last night! Ever think "This won't make too much of a mess will it?" I did last night and was hopelessly wrong. Latre! <---Olde Inglisch spilling Brent ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 18:42:40 -0600 From: Brent Theobald To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: A-H Cockpit Details Message-ID: <0C9947CED778D411B8BD0008C7FAA642A52041@emerald.telecom.sna.samsung.com> Howdy! I have a few ideas for you. YOu can pick up the Part P/E designed for the Aviatik Berg D.I and blow it up to 1/48. That way you can use it as a pattern. It seems one of the Fluegzueg (sp?) had a photo of a Aviatik cockpit. You could use that as a go-by. Lastly you could make it all up. Who'll know? Later! BRent -----Original Message----- From: Todd Hayes [mailto:thayes_52601@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 5:15 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: A-H Cockpit Details I'm interested in finding some p.e. details for my A-H a/c. Can anyone tell me where I could get them? And also if there is much difference between German and A-H cockpit fittings and instruments? I'm hoping a combination of Tom's Mworks and Copper State details will work. The kits I'm thinking about in particular are the Aviatik 30.40 and the WKF D.I by Alliance. TH __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2878 **********************