WWI Digest 2847 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 2cents worth on 1/72 Omega Sikorsky Si-16 by "Francisca e Pedro Soares" 2) Re: New Stuff on Webpages - BE2e in particular by "Steven Schofield" 3) Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII by "Lance Krieg" 4) Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII by "Dale Beamish" 5) Shipping in Europe - was keeping french by knut.erik.hagen@eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) 6) Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII by Peter Leonard 7) Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII by "Dale Beamish" 8) Re: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires by "Nigel Rayner" 9) JMGT SPAD VII Help by "DAVID BURKE" 10) Re: JMGT SPAD VII Help by TomTheAeronut@aol.com 11) RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by Shane Weier 12) RE: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires by "Ray Boorman" 13) Re: WWI digest 2845 by Marc Flake 14) Re: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires by "David Calhoun" 15) RE: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires by "Ray Boorman" 16) That time of year... by MAnde72343@aol.com 17) RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by "Ray Boorman" 18) Re: JMGT SPAD VII Help by "DAVID BURKE" 19) Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by "David Calhoun" 20) Re: Happy Birthday RK by KarrArt@aol.com 21) Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by KarrArt@aol.com 22) Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by smperry@mindspring.com 23) RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by "Ray Boorman" 24) RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by "Ray Boorman" 25) Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII by Todd Hayes 26) Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat by "David Calhoun" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 22:03:22 -0000 From: "Francisca e Pedro Soares" To: Subject: Re: 2cents worth on 1/72 Omega Sikorsky Si-16 Message-ID: <008401c05987$09c5f840$49a337d4@pc1> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 9:39 PM Subject: 2cents worth on 1/72 Omega Sikorsky Si-16 > > Any feed back on the Dako kit or > spoked wheels would be appreciated! > > Regards, > John > John, There's an excelent build up article on the DAKO kit in an old issue of IM by Michael Kendix HTH Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 22:16:19 -0000 From: "Steven Schofield" To: Subject: Re: New Stuff on Webpages - BE2e in particular Message-ID: <001d01c05988$d5df9d40$047793c3@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Francisca e Pedro Soares" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 11:24 PM Subject: Re: New Stuff on Webpages - BE2e in particular > Hey Steven, > > Think of it as a diorama. It did happen every now and then. Here's proof of > it: > > http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bin/viewimage.x/00000000/gau/A1.jpg > Looks too realistic. (Mine that is.) Scho http://www.ww1.org.uk ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 16:36:55 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII Message-ID: This is something of a can of worms, IIRC. The machine pictured on the cover of the Squadron book is, I believe, Alois Heldmann's (?) Jasta 10 machine, 244/18. It was flown briefly by Lothar and a number of pictures of him, along with his father, were taken by this machine. At least three of these were published in the Albatros D.VII Anthology. Note that the cover painting is wrong in a number of respects, most glaring being the exhaust arrangement, which should be of the early Fokker configuration. The Squadron review model, very nice indeed, contains the same error, and several others with the markings. Without being overly pedantic, the checkerboard is way too small, and the "AH" monogram on the top wing is missing altogether. All told, the version of this plane that appeared on the old Super Scale decal sheets was much more accurate. Perhaps none of this matters, as it is a nice looking machine, but it is not Lothar's. If you want more information, either on this plane or what else Lothar may have flown, I will be happy to take a look tonight when I get home. LMK Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 15:53:30 -0700 From: "Dale Beamish" To: Subject: Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII Message-ID: <00a001c0598e$95d3fce0$902bb8a1@darcy> > Well. Thanks Stef! But I am afraid I covered his Dr.I only. LvR's D.VII is > on Squadron book cover, but more interesting is that there are two good > photos of this plane inside the book (page 24) The A/C on the cover and inside the Squadron book is in fact NOT Lothar's. 244/18 was flown by Aloys Heldman. A couple of points in support. The yellow Jasta 10 nose and the AH monogram on the top wing.also in I would presume Jasta 10 yellow. I realize the picture shows him beside and sitting in this A/C but I think we should remember the fact that at any time any A/C could've been used by anyone. I would assume this was the case here. In the Von R Datafile Special it is profiled by Ray Rimmel as Heldman's complete with the monogram mentioned. The datafile contains the identical pictures shown in the Squadron book, however the captions state it is in fact Heldman's. Squadron strikes again! Dale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 00:13:46 +0100 (CET) From: knut.erik.hagen@eunet.no (Knut Erik Hagen) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Shipping in Europe - was keeping french Message-ID: <200011282313.AAA44111@mail-relay.eunet.no> Hei Northern Europe including the UK is suffering from two months of rain flooding roads and railroads, so there are a lot of delayed mail. Just got SAvMI for December while the November issue is still missing and quite a few magazines are arriving late. Things will probably get worse when the Christmas mail jams the system. I have ordered from Jadar before, got my stuff within a week or two, but it a shorter distance to Norway than Argentina. You could send them an Email and ask for the status of your order. For those who haven`t got SAvMI December yet, there is a build-up of T.C. Models Vickers Vimy citing Aeroclub as a source for the kit. Eders Knut Erik >Another french model question..... >I've ordered a flashback Voisin from Jadar some months ago, via fax... and >still no answer from them. Do I have to order another one form a more >reliable source? Is Jadar very slow on deliveries? Eders Knut Erik ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 23:36:39 +0000 From: Peter Leonard To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII Message-ID: <3A244187.EAABDE89@cwcom.net> Been there. This is the Monogram kit http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com/d7.jpg cheers Peter L Dale Beamish wrote: > > Well. Thanks Stef! But I am afraid I covered his Dr.I only. LvR's D.VII is > > on Squadron book cover, but more interesting is that there are two good > > photos of this plane inside the book (page 24) > > The A/C on the cover and inside the Squadron book is in fact NOT Lothar's. > 244/18 was flown by Aloys Heldman. A couple of points in support. The yellow > Jasta 10 nose and the AH monogram on the top wing.also in I would presume > Jasta 10 yellow. I realize the picture shows him beside and sitting in this > A/C but I think we should remember the fact that at any time any A/C > could've been used by anyone. I would assume this was the case here. In the > Von R Datafile Special it is profiled by Ray Rimmel as Heldman's complete > with the monogram mentioned. The datafile contains the identical pictures > shown in the Squadron book, however the captions state it is in fact > Heldman's. > > Squadron strikes again! > > Dale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 16:39:30 -0700 From: "Dale Beamish" To: Subject: Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII Message-ID: <00eb01c05994$77294880$902bb8a1@darcy> Peter L: > Been there. This is the Monogram kit http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com/d7.jpg Very nice indeed Peter. Dale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 23:56:25 -0000 From: "Nigel Rayner" To: Subject: Re: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires Message-ID: <000d01c05996$d2379b80$6249883e@w1o0t3> Ray wrote: > I have just about finished the rigging for my OT Project DV. From all the > poring over pictures it would seem that the extra rigging wire on the > outside of the interplane struts was used on some but not all DVa's, but not > on DV's. Would this be true. > I have checked the picture of the aircraft I am building and although its > too unclear to see rigging, it does seem to be an early DV. Therefore I am > not putting the extra rigging wire in. Ray, I agonised over this one too - being lazy, I was going to leave it out. However, I decided to put it on (I did Waldhausen's DV, which has the additional leading edge strutette). Most photos are too indistinct, but some DV's do have it - Veltjen's and Kissenberth's for example. So Dicta Ira unless you have a clear photo of your plane. And now the bad news - I just rechecked the photo of Waldhausen's plane under the magnifier and it *doesn't* look like it had it! Cheers, Nigel ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 18:37:05 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: JMGT SPAD VII Help Message-ID: <001301c0599c$812304e0$2be379a5@com> Hi Y'all, 2 Questions: has anyone built the JMGT SPAD VII? If so, did you have any strut fit problems? How did you solve 'em? O.K., that was 3 questions. These struts have me confused. Thanks. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 19:57:37 EST From: TomTheAeronut@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: JMGT SPAD VII Help Message-ID: <59.37db308.2755ae81@aol.com> In a message dated 11/28/00 7:41:42 PM EST, dora9@sprynet.com writes: << 2 Questions: has anyone built the JMGT SPAD VII? If so, did you have any strut fit problems? How did you solve 'em? >> You just fiddle them till you find the right ones for each spot. The big thing to be careful of is that the resin of this kit is *very* brittle and it is really easy to snap a part while handling it. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 11:02:07 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C71621D17@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Ray notes: > > The Airbrush Medium is a liquitex product and comes in an 8 > oz bottle for > about $6. Its a milky colour and the consistency of water. It > thins and > seems to mix with all acrylics. One point if you use future > you probably > don't need to use the Airbrush Medium since it is performing > the same role > in that it thins and seems to also make the paint somewhat > more durable. The description Ray gives sounds *exactly* like Johnsons Shine Magic (Australian equivalent of Future/Kleer according to Johnsons) or, for that matter, like Aeromaster/Floquil/anyone elses acrylic varnish Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 16:59:47 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires Message-ID: Lol Pedro, you mean I have to actually do some work and write something??? Anyway after 3 days of poring over pictures of Dv's and DVa's I've arrived at the unhappy impression that. There is no good way to work out what extra rigging a DVa had over a DV. In other words whatever aircraft you are modeling check the pictures don't assume ;( By the way and I don't want all the legalese, but if I scan in sections of photo's from books etc, as long as I quote the source can I put these on the web. If so I will write something with a few bits of pictures for the Albatros Build. Ray -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of Francisca e Pedro Soares Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 1:42 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires Ray, Me thinks this one should go to the reference area of the cook up pages. Pedro ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray Boorman To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 5:16 PM Subject: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires > I have just about finished the rigging for my OT Project DV. From all the > poring over pictures it would seem that the extra rigging wire on the > outside of the interplane struts was used on some but not all DVa's, but not > on DV's. Would this be true ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 20:15:58 -0600 From: Marc Flake To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI digest 2845 Message-ID: <3A2466DE.5DE@airmail.net> Ray, Matt: I ususally work on three projects at a time. While I'm waiting for glue or paint to dry on one, I can work on the other two. Sometimes, like when I'm waiting for paint to dry on all three, I'll pull out something easy. The Revirescos were very easy and went together quickly. It usually takes about six weeks for me to finish a model. They aren't masterpieces like Alberto creates, but I like the way they look. I have a few photos ready to send. I just need to get them scanned in. Then I'll take photos of the others and send them along, too. NOT the ot ones, of course. Marc (Who's now headed over to the work bench to put decals on a couple of Fokkers) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 21:38:28 -0800 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires Message-ID: <006901c059c6$9b4ec000$5bd33ccc@oemcomputer> Hi Ray, I just (a couple of weeks ago) completed my Albatros D.V flown by Udet, Jasta 37 Sept 1917. I based it on Dan-San Abbott's drawing, having no photos of this aircraft finished in overall aluminum with black trim. It is said by Dan to be in D.1000/17 series, serial number being overpainted in aluminum. One thing to note in the drawing is an extra bracing wire on each wing, going from the v strut on the lower wing up to the 2nd rib from the tip of the upper wing at about a 45 degree angle. I am not sure that this was a factory wire, maybe added in the field, but it was there on an early D.V. Dave Calhoun ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray Boorman" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 9:16 AM Subject: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires > I have just about finished the rigging for my OT Project DV. From all the > poring over pictures it would seem that the extra rigging wire on the > outside of the interplane struts was used on some but not all DVa's, but not > on DV's. Would this be true. > I have checked the picture of the aircraft I am building and although its > too unclear to see rigging, it does seem to be an early DV. Therefore I am > not putting the extra rigging wire in. > > Any oppinions? > > Ray > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 18:34:36 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Alb DV-DVa extra rigging wires Message-ID: So for the people who wonder what the heck I am bitching about, take a look at this. Caution it will take a few seconds to open. I'll work on that. (I have no idea what this looks like on a mac or netscape btw.) Ray http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Jasta2000/Rigging%20Nightmares.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 22:19:35 EST From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: That time of year... Message-ID: <4a.e1e3c44.2755cfc7@aol.com> --part1_4a.e1e3c44.2755cfc7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I didn't get as much done as some of you, and I couldn't even if I was retired or whatever and could model full time, no way, but the list helps to keep me motivated, and wanting to build, so thanks to all of you for getting me out of Modelers Block and building again. Merrill --part1_4a.e1e3c44.2755cfc7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I didn't get as much done as some of you, and I couldn't even if I was
retired or whatever and could model full time, no way, but the list helps to
keep me motivated, and wanting to build, so thanks to all of you for getting
me out of Modelers Block and building again.
Merrill
--part1_4a.e1e3c44.2755cfc7_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 19:16:43 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: For an example of the difference between Liquitex and Ceramcoat take a look at these pics. The pictures are from a few days ago and its Greims DV just after rigging and cleaning up the thread coming out of the wing. Therefore the upper wing has been lightly sanded. The green is Liquitex and its very fragile. The Mauve is Ceramcoat and has also been just as lightly sanded. No biggy since I have to repaint the upper wing anyway but there is a heck of a difference. Oh lol the model still has a ways to go. About another week or two at my pace I would suspect. http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Jasta2000/greim1.jpg http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Jasta2000/greim2.jpg Ray -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of John_Impenna@hyperion.com Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 11:24 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re:Liquitex & Ceramcoat Ray & SP, I have found that thinning with Future also works really well with Ceramcoat. It smooths it out and makes it take masking better. I have used the Blending Medium for extending drying time when brushing these as well. Future seems to be the best thinner for these paints with distilled water a close second. I then use rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean up. I checked out the Liquitex Airbrush medium. A "sniff" test(opened the bottle and gave it a sniff) showed that is seems to be pretty much the same as Future, only milky. When brushing these paints and a flat finish is desired, mix in either of their Matt Mediums. This will also thin the paint. I will be trying some Liquitex this weekend, but it sounds as if Ray and sp have already covered this ground..... Regards, John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 21:45:16 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: JMGT SPAD VII Help Message-ID: <001e01c059b7$1334f9a0$7de779a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 7:04 PM Subject: Re: JMGT SPAD VII Help > In a message dated 11/28/00 7:41:42 PM EST, dora9@sprynet.com writes: > > << > 2 Questions: has anyone built the JMGT SPAD VII? If so, did you have > any strut fit problems? How did you solve 'em? > >> > > You just fiddle them till you find the right ones for each spot. The big > thing to be careful of is that the resin of this kit is *very* brittle and it > is really easy to snap a part while handling it. > > Tom Cleaver Yup. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 22:55:50 -0800 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: <001001c059d1$69f9f640$d40c3ccc@oemcomputer> Wow. I guess you could call this a reason to rig with guitar wire/stretched sprue. Once I paint my wing I don't want any damage to the final coat of paint, and clear coat it before adding upper wing and rigging. As an experiment I tried to rig my aluminum painted Albatros (Model Master non-buffing aluminum airbrushed on with a coat of sealer) using nylon thread after attaching wings, using pre drilled holes. I was able to touch up the black on the lower wing crosses ok, but when I gave the upper wing a semi flat overcoat (Model Master spraycan) I was left with a horrible orange peel finish. I ended up removing upper wing, stripping with brake fluid and repainting. I re-rigged it using stretched sprue cut to length attached with elmers glue. A small soldering iron tightened up any slack in the sprue. I used silver sprue from a Glencoe Pfalz to avoid painting the rigging. Worked for me. Dave Calhoun ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray Boorman" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 7:28 PM Subject: RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat > For an example of the difference between Liquitex and Ceramcoat take a look > at these pics. The pictures are from a few days ago and its Greims DV just > after rigging and cleaning up the thread coming out of the wing. Therefore > the upper wing has been lightly sanded. The green is Liquitex and its very > fragile. The Mauve is Ceramcoat and has also been just as lightly sanded. > > No biggy since I have to repaint the upper wing anyway but there is a heck > of a difference. Oh lol the model still has a ways to go. About another week > or two at my pace I would suspect. > > > http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Jasta2000/greim1.jpg > http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/Jasta2000/greim2.jpg > Ray > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > John_Impenna@hyperion.com > Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 11:24 AM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re:Liquitex & Ceramcoat > > > > > Ray & SP, > I have found that thinning with Future also works really well with > Ceramcoat. It > smooths it out and makes it take masking better. I have used the Blending > Medium > for extending drying time when brushing these as well. Future seems to be > the > best thinner for these paints with distilled water a close second. I then > use > rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean up. I checked out the > Liquitex > Airbrush medium. A "sniff" test(opened the bottle and gave it a sniff) > showed > that is seems to be pretty much the same as Future, only milky. When > brushing > these paints and a flat finish is desired, mix in either of their Matt > Mediums. > This will also thin the paint. I will be trying some Liquitex this weekend, > but > it sounds as if Ray and sp have already covered this ground..... > > Regards, > > John > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 22:58:27 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Happy Birthday RK Message-ID: In a message dated 11/23/00 5:38:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, TomTheAeronut@aol.com writes: << << I guess I'll keep painting for a bit longer before getting back to model building, >> Turn your magic on that Aeroclub F.E.2b you have been threatening to turn into an F.E.2d since you got it for Christmas the other year! :-) Tom Cleaver >> Right now- I'm rejoining the world for a bit.........after the busiest week of my life, tonight I'm going to plop on my fat lazy fundiment and do nothing but read old C&Cs, watch the cartoons playing on the inside of my head, and maybe drink a beer or two...I smell spaghetti cooking right now, I'm wearing my crappiest shorts and most paint spattered t-shirt, and life ain't too bad. RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 22:58:18 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: <56.3f7619f.2755d8da@aol.com> In a message dated 11/27/00 9:38:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, Ray_Boorman@telus.net writes: << The Airbrush Medium is a liquitex product and comes in an 8 oz bottle for about $6. Its a milky colour and the consistency of water. It thins and seems to mix with all acrylics. One point if you use future you probably don't need to use the Airbrush Medium since it is performing the same role in that it thins and seems to also make the paint somewhat more durable. >> I have forgotten which brand it is, but I have a paint and crud encrusted bottle of something labled "airbrush medium" and it seems to be nothing more than a glorified soap mix, and when I've used it it, it DOES make the paint spray much easier, but the dried paint film is weakend so much I try not to use it unless absolutley necessary- if you're going to get some "airbrush medium", make sure what it is! RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 23:14:30 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: <002101c059ba$df8ca720$eef1aec7@default> The green is Liquitex and its very > fragile. The Mauve is Ceramcoat and has also been just as lightly sanded. Ray: Did you mix Future with the Liquitex? My Liquitex / Future mixes are more fragile than enamel, but way more rugged than straight liquitex diluted with water or alcohol. One thing I found that Liquitex / Future paint isn't worth a hoot for is painting Ni plated PE. Stuff just won't stick. I agree with Dave, having to touch up rigging holes is one reason why I also prefer stretched sprue for rigging. No holes, no touch up. Now why didn't I think of the soldering iron. The cheapie POS I have won't even melt solder, probably perfect for HSP. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 20:04:51 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: In 1/48th I can typically rig without drilling all the way through the wing. But in 1/72 which is what the greimmachine is, I end up with a mess trying to do that. So its easier for me at least to just drill and then repaint the upper wing. If I had sense I wouldnt have painted it at all. However Ceramcoat is a lot sturdier and doesnt need as much repainting, I didnt think the liquitex was scar so much. Lets see other ahem adventures/misadventures. I had detailed the cockpit including putting in a half instrument panel. Then I masked to paint the fuselage. Started spraying but didnt notice the cockpit masking plug had fallen out. I got a nice silver overstray in the cockpit and the panel fell out with the plug. So lets see thats 3 ahem mis-adventures so i guess its clear sailing from here, isnt it .......... Ray -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of David Calhoun Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 7:57 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Wow. I guess you could call this a reason to rig with guitar wire/stretched sprue. Once I paint my wing I don't want any damage to the final coat of paint, and clear coat it before adding upper wing and rigging. As an experiment I tried to rig my aluminum painted Albatros (Model Master non-buffing aluminum airbrushed on with a coat of sealer) using nylon thread after attaching wings, using pre drilled holes. I was able to touch up the black on the lower wing crosses ok, but when I gave the upper wing a semi flat overcoat (Model Master spraycan) I was left with a horrible orange peel finish. I ended up removing upper wing, stripping with brake fluid and repainting. I re-rigged it using stretched sprue cut to length attached with elmers glue. A small soldering iron tightened up any slack in the sprue. I used silver sprue from a Glencoe Pfalz to avoid painting the rigging. Worked for me. Dave Calhoun ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 20:15:48 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: LOL well the liquitex was mixed with the Airbrush Medium, so hehe I guess we know you can't sand it. The Ceramcoat was mixed with half water and half future. Not by choice but it seemed to thick just before I sprayed and the tap was close! This worked fine though. Usually Future mixed with either works much better. As to HSP you have to remember I have two left hands. I forever screw it up on 1/72 scale models. Works on 1/48th though don't know why, guess I have to practice more. Ray -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of smperry@mindspring.com Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 8:15 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat The green is Liquitex and its very > fragile. The Mauve is Ceramcoat and has also been just as lightly sanded. Ray: Did you mix Future with the Liquitex? My Liquitex / Future mixes are more fragile than enamel, but way more rugged than straight liquitex diluted with water or alcohol. One thing I found that Liquitex / Future paint isn't worth a hoot for is painting Ni plated PE. Stuff just won't stick. I agree with Dave, having to touch up rigging holes is one reason why I also prefer stretched sprue for rigging. No holes, no touch up. Now why didn't I think of the soldering iron. The cheapie POS I have won't even melt solder, probably perfect for HSP. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 19:29:38 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII Message-ID: <20001129032938.33796.qmail@web9009.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Diego, The "Nieuport Fighters in Action" has one of those little errors that cause me to doubt their accuracy. It labels a side profile of a Nie.27 as a Nie.28. That's a pretty basic mistake for such a reputable series. TH --- Diego Fernetti wrote: > I guess that I saw it in the cover of the "Fokker > D.VII in action" > If any of those books are to be believed... > D. > > > >From: "Brian Nicklas" > >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > >To: Multiple recipients of list > > >Subject: Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII > >Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 14:38:31 -0500 (EST) > > > >Lothar von R & his Fokker D.VII - > >Anyone have a lead on a view of his airplane? > >I thought I recall seeing a side view, but now I > can't remember where > >and can't see to backtrack through the usual > suspects and find it. > >One of Bob's profiles maybe? > >Somewhere on Internet Modeler? > >Thanks, > >Brian Nicklas > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________________________________ > Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : > http://explorer.msn.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 23:33:53 -0800 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat Message-ID: <002e01c059d6$ba818e20$d40c3ccc@oemcomputer> The soldering iron works for me - wouldn't melt solder, so I threw it across the room... good to tighten sprue though. Be careful not to get it too close, hold it for a few seconds moving slowly back & forth along the length of stretched sprue and it will miraculously spring tight. If you get it too close you will melt through the strand, but if using Elmer glue it is pretty easy to replace, and on my Albatros I only had to replace one section on the entire aircraft due to melting it. Dave Calhoun ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 8:14 PM Subject: Re: Liquitex & Ceramcoat > The green is Liquitex and its very > > fragile. The Mauve is Ceramcoat and has also been just as lightly sanded. > > Ray: > Did you mix Future with the Liquitex? > > My Liquitex / Future mixes are more fragile than enamel, but way more rugged > than straight liquitex diluted with water or alcohol. > > One thing I found that Liquitex / Future paint isn't worth a hoot for is > painting Ni plated PE. Stuff just won't stick. > > I agree with Dave, having to touch up rigging holes is one reason why I also > prefer stretched sprue for rigging. No holes, no touch up. Now why didn't I > think of the soldering iron. The cheapie POS I have won't even melt solder, > probably perfect for HSP. > > sp > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2847 **********************