WWI Digest 2765 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Machine Guns by Shane Weier 2) Gentlemen, Please! by "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" 3) Re: Waldron Punch Sets by "Candice Uhlir" 4) Re: New Insignia Special on the Albatros D.III (Oef) - Colours and Markings by Todd Hayes 5) On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by Stephendigiacomo@aol.com 6) =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Buying=20extras=20-=20what's=20the=20plausible=20?= by Stephendigiacomo@aol.com 7) Re: Gentlemen, Please! by "DAVID BURKE" 8) Re: Waldron Punch Sets by "DAVID BURKE" 9) Re: Archer Fine Transfers by Morg17ms@aol.com 10) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by "Bob Pearson" 11) Re: Varriale / Gentili Italian book by "Richard Eaton" 12) Re: Varriale / Gentili Italian book by Morg17ms@aol.com 13) Re: Buying extras - what's the plausible by "Tom Solinski" 14) Re: New Insignia Special on the Albatros D.III (Oef) - Colours and Markings by "Michael Kendix" 15) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by "Michael Kendix" 16) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by "Bob Pearson" 17) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by MAnde72343@aol.com 18) Re: Machine Guns by MAnde72343@aol.com 19) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by "Bob Pearson" 20) Re: Varriale / Gentili Italian book by "Matt Bittner" 21) Re: Waldron Punch Sets by "Matt Bittner" 22) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by MAnde72343@aol.com 23) dumpster diving wasRe: Machine Guns by KarrArt@aol.com 24) RE: Buying extras - what's the plausible by "Ray Boorman" 25) No voodoo dolls please. by Stephendigiacomo@aol.com 26) Re: Machine Guns by "DAVID BURKE" 27) Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII by "Bob Pearson" 28) Re: Archer Fine Transfers by Todd Hayes 29) Making fuel lines (and so on) by Shane Weier ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 09:08:03 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Machine Guns Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C71621BEE@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Todd says: > Waldron has been around for quite awhile too. True, but Fotocut was first. Not just first for WW1 stuff, first. And St Harry was the man who developed the idea of etched brass as a detailing method - for which I'm moderately gratefull, though not nearly so much as for his pioneering his then revolutionary idea of using plasticard to build models (all this, and photos of the original artwork was published in a Scale Models issue *way* back in the early 7o's) Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 17:25:49 -0600 From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" To: "'WWI Modeling Digest'" Subject: Gentlemen, Please! Message-ID: <15888960D28CD211AD1900105A249078012ABA33@ano-exs02.ano.entergy.com> Can we get back to a nice, quiet discussion of cowl colors or some other peaceful subject like that? Ken Zelnick Who isn't mad at anybody. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 23:53:28 GMT From: "Candice Uhlir" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Waldron Punch Sets Message-ID: Thanks to everybody who put their opinions on the Waldron punch and die sets. I just ordered the sub miniature set. I hope to put it to good and innovative uses pursuing our wonderful and sometimes crazy hobby. Candice >From: "Michael S. Alvarado" >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Waldron Punch Sets >Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:10:53 -0500 (EST) > >Candice, > >I have no idea hiw disturbed you are or not (most of the rest of the world >thinks anyone who builds model airplanes, especially ones with two wings >and >wires going every where are seriously disturbed). I always reply that >perhaps >we are but in any event its a harmless perversion. I dithered for about >ten >years as to whether or not spring for cost of one or both of the Waldron >Punch >and Die Sets. I finally last year bought a standard set ($41 plus tax) >and now >for the life of me I can not understand how I ever got along with one. The >standard set is very useful, the sub-miniature set is more specialized (and >about twice the cost). I would say you can't go wrong in acquiring a >standard >set, if you like it and see a need for it, then mortgage the house and get >the >sub-miniature set. As I said the standard set is one of my indispensable >tools >and I think anyone who can produce a finshed and AEG G vac as spectacular >as >yours will find the standard set of value as well. > >Alvie > >Candice Uhlir wrote: > > > thank you John, > > > > You met me....did I seem seriously disturbed to you,,or just mildly?? > > > > Candice > > > > >From: "John & Allison Cyganowski" > > >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > > >To: Multiple recipients of list > > >Subject: Re: Waldron Punch Sets > > >Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 05:39:11 -0500 (EST) > > > > > >Hi Candice, > > > > > >There are two main differences btw the sets - size & price. The >precision > > >punch & die set are ~$35(US) at Roll Models. The Sub-Miniature set >goes > > >for > > >~$75(US). A lot of money - I know. Basically the punches in this set >are > > >much smaller. & you get more sizes. > > > > > >If you want to build round covers or build up Rotary engine cylinders >by > > >stacking disks then the precision set is all you need. (Caution - >building > > >a > > >double row Oberusel will put you in the rubber room - but you'll have >the > > >best looking rotary around). > > > > > >If you are already seriously disturbed & want to build individual > > >switches/knobs/rivets, well then the subminiture set might be for you. >:-) > > > > > >There was a write-up on these and other sets as well as sources in FSM >a > > >few > > >years ago. I could dig up the article if you would like. You would >know > > >exactly what you were getting. I think some of the listees found a set >of > > >punches that were a little more reasonable in terms of price. > > > > > >Regards, > > >John Cyg. > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: Candice Uhlir > > >To: Multiple recipients of list > > >Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 12:20 AM > > >Subject: Waldron Punch Sets > > > > > > > > > > What set would you guys suggest for 1/48 WW1 aircraft >modeling....the > > > > PRECISION PUNCH & DIE SET or SUB MINIATURE PUNCH & DIE SET? And >what is > > >the > > > > difference, just size?? > > > > > > > > Candice > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at > > >http://www.hotmail.com. > > > > > > > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > > > > http://profiles.msn.com. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________________ > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at >http://www.hotmail.com. > > > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > > http://profiles.msn.com. > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 16:02:44 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Insignia Special on the Albatros D.III (Oef) - Colours and Markings Message-ID: <20001031000244.47377.qmail@web9006.mail.yahoo.com> Jared, Barry at Rosemont has them for $17.99. TH --- Jared Anthony Zichek wrote: > Has anyone purchased a copy of this booklet yet? It > looks pretty > interesting, and I hope it is the beginning of a > long series of C & M books > from Blue Rider on WW I aircraft. Cheapest source > for it in the U.S. > appears to be Roll Models, at around $20. > > -Jared > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at > http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own > public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:06:59 EST From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: Hmmm. Don't know which paint scheme to go with. If I paint it up like Lt. G. Klein's then I don't get the chance to use the wing camouflage decals do I? Okay. Hey, how are Toko's decals anyway? I've never built any of their stuff before. Thanks guys and gals. ~ Steve diGiacomo ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:09:59 EST From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Buying=20extras=20-=20what's=20the=20plausible=20?= Message-ID: <44.87dc06f.272f67d7@aol.com> Incidentally I only got back into model building at the beginning of this year after a twelve year hiatus. This is the first WWI plane I'm attempting. (Excepting any projects as a kid). My thinking at this point is to get it done rather than do it "right", [I still have about fifty other kits waiting to be built - can't wait to get to my Monogram He 111, Bf 110, and Spitfire] but I am curious to know what I could be looking to tally up in terms of dollars for any extra detail sets. TIA, Steve diGiacomo ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:00:52 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Gentlemen, Please! Message-ID: <002c01c042cf$9a5689c0$77ec79a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 5:28 PM Subject: Gentlemen, Please! > Can we get back to a nice, quiet discussion of cowl colors or some other > peaceful subject like that? > > Ken Zelnick > Who isn't mad at anybody. Notice I ain't said nothing. DB ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:14:50 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Waldron Punch Sets Message-ID: <002d01c042cf$9b279560$77ec79a5@com> I have gone thru a P&D set already. After a while they just wear out. But you get alot of use out of them. It's funny, but you find yourself using them alot more than you would think! They are very effective at doing things like providing you with lots of small aluminum disks to use as the grommets on a Sutton Harness. With both sizes of the set, be careful with thickness. If you have to more than tap the punch more than once lightly, odds are the material is too thick. This will round the sharp edge at the face of the punch - actually, the most important part of the tool! Then, it's pretty much shot, unless you have a way of grinding the edge back on. A lathe might work. I mainly use mine with foil, and the regular punch and die set works up to 10-thousandths styrene. The Sub-Miniature is pretty delicate, and I only use it for foil and paper. Handy though. Every knob, button, and doodad can be done. A piece of black Lucite about 1/8" thick makes a good work surface, as you can see where the punched pieces are. If you're working with the Sub-Miniature set, it's a good idea to wear a facemask and turn the fans off! The mask keeps you from blowing them away! Especially if they're paper. DB probably telling you the same stuff everybody else has. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:25:03 EST From: Morg17ms@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Archer Fine Transfers Message-ID: I've used the stitiching to do the underside of a Fokker E.V - worked great and took all of about 10 min to apply! I used the 1:72 stuff on my 1:48 model - just looked more scale. I highly recommend the product. Tom Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 16:23:16 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: <200010310040.QAA03167@mail.rapidnet.net> For Klein's .. is that the one with the horizontal stripe? That one is pure fabrication through and through .. those markings belong on a D.III or IIIa' Bob ---------- >From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII >Date: Mon, Oct 30, 2000, 4:12 pm > > Hmmm. Don't know which paint scheme to go with. If I paint it up like Lt. > G. Klein's then I don't get the chance to use the wing camouflage decals do > I? Okay. Hey, how are Toko's decals anyway? I've never built any of their > stuff before. > Thanks guys and gals. > ~ Steve diGiacomo ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:26:50 -0600 From: "Richard Eaton" To: Subject: Re: Varriale / Gentili Italian book Message-ID: <000001c042d1$8d6cf4e0$6e441c18@austin.rr.com> Great Bob, Happy birthday! Regards, Richard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Pearson" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 4:57 PM Subject: Varriale / Gentili Italian book > Greetings all, > > My birthday present today was an email from Hikoki saying they agreed to my > basic terms for providing profiles for the English translation of the > Gentilli/Varriale book on the Italian AF in WW1. Now the fun begins ..... .. > > Bob > (no subpoena this year .. things are looking up - check the archives for > this date in the past) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:34:47 EST From: Morg17ms@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Varriale / Gentili Italian book Message-ID: <92.bc94ce8.272f6da7@aol.com> WARNING - WARNING I ordered this book from Mr. Varriale in May - sent cash as he specifically requested. No book. Wrote him again in August. No book - no reply - no return of my $35. Forewarned is forearmed!!! Tom Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:34:43 -0600 From: "Tom Solinski" To: Subject: Re: Buying extras - what's the plausible Message-ID: <021601c042d2$5d59b760$12330e18@Solinski.okc1.ok.home.com> Stephen! Stephen! Stephen! BE VERY CAREFUL!! There are people on this list that will create a vodoo doll ( with a proper yellow face, and olive drab hair) of you and do bad things to it with a very,very,dull xacto knife. For your own safety and well being NEVER NEVER NEVER type in the full name of ot (off topic) airplanes! If you must then use He-1**, Bf 1-1thingy, and Sp***ire best yet don't ever mention them at all unless you are referring to the second half of the First World War! The answer to your question lies in a philosophy amongst flying scale model builders. A scale model is never finished, you just tire of adding more details. Tom S ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 6:14 PM Subject: Buying extras - what's the plausible > Incidentally I only got back into model building at the beginning of this > year after a twelve year hiatus. This is the first WWI plane I'm attempting. > (Excepting any projects as a kid). > My thinking at this point is to get it done rather than do it "right", [I > still have about fifty other kits waiting to be built - can't wait to get to > my Monogram ] but I am curious to know what I > could be looking to tally up in terms of dollars for any extra detail sets. > TIA, > Steve diGiacomo > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 00:42:19 GMT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Insignia Special on the Albatros D.III (Oef) - Colours and Markings Message-ID: >From: "Jared Anthony Zichek" > >Has anyone purchased a copy of this booklet yet? It looks pretty >interesting, and I hope it is the beginning of a long series of C & M > >books from Blue Rider on WW I aircraft. Cheapest source for it in the > >U.S. appears to be Roll Models, at around $20. I did for about $14.95 from KPL Systems http://pages.prodigy.net/kplsys/kplnew.htm If he hasn't listed it (and I don't think he has), just email him and ask him about ordering one. It is just about worth it if you're into A-Hstuff. Most of the profiles are B & W with descriptions like "This is red with a white border and CDL wings". Also contains a sheet of insignia decals for the fuselage sides (no crosses). HTH Michael _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 00:57:16 GMT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: >From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com >Hmmm. Don't know which paint scheme to go with. If I paint it up like > >Lt. G. Klein's then I don't get the chance to use the wing camouflage > >decals do I? Okay. Hey, how are Toko's decals anyway? I've never > >built any of their stuff before. Stephen: I'm unsure what Toko's decals look like nowadays since their kits are being re-released by Eastern Express. If you're particular, Toko's decal's needto be confirmed - check up on them. In my Pfalz D.XII, the decals were the same for upper and lower lozenge, and really did not replicate either that well. The crosses were decent though. If it's your first WWI escapade fr a while, just build it with th kit decals or find a non-lozenge scheme. Alternatively, spend another $15 and buy a sheet of Americal/Gryphon 5-colour upper and lower lozenge. Does anyone know a non-lozenge scheme for the Pfalz D.XII? Michael _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 17:01:00 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: <200010310114.RAA04469@mail.rapidnet.net> > Does anyone know a non-lozenge scheme for the Pfalz D.XII? Nope Bob ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 20:07:39 EST From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: <7f.b60e0d4.272f755b@aol.com> As to Lt Klein's 'green' upper wing, there is some question of when it became green, as it appears that the fabric was non lozenge, and may have been replaced, either while still in German hands, or later, by the British, IIRC. I know that when I finish my BM DXII, it will be Klein's, but with a lozenge upper wing. Merrill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 20:22:35 EST From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Machine Guns Message-ID: <5a.c85cd2f.272f78db@aol.com> I asked first, but got permission to 'raid' the dumpster at a commercial cabinet shop, and am still (almost 15 years later) using the 'Formica' laminated plywood parts I salvaged, although for plexi, i pay (by the pound) at a plastics place (scrap at $2 per pound) and have a number of uses for that stuff, especially the thick stuff, it makes a great work surface. Merrill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 17:26:31 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: <200010310140.RAA05615@mail.rapidnet.net> Okay ... now I'm confused .. what are Klein's D.XII markings? Bob ---------- >From: MAnde72343@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII >Date: Mon, Oct 30, 2000, 5:12 pm > > As to Lt Klein's 'green' upper wing, there is some question of when it became > green, as it appears that the fabric was non lozenge, and may have been > replaced, either while still in German hands, or later, by the British, IIRC. > I know that when I finish my BM DXII, it will be Klein's, but with a lozenge > upper wing. > Merrill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:44:49 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Varriale / Gentili Italian book Message-ID: <200010310144.RAA04366@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Mon, 30 Oct 2000 17:57:44 -0500 (EST), Bob Pearson wrote: > My birthday present today was an email from Hikoki saying they agreed to my > basic terms for providing profiles for the English translation of the > Gentilli/Varriale book on the Italian AF in WW1. Now the fun begins ..... .. That is indeed awesome news. Again, congratulations! Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:45:42 -0600 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Waldron Punch Sets Message-ID: <200010310145.RAA07891@swan.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:57:39 -0500 (EST), Candice Uhlir wrote: > Thanks to everybody who put their opinions on the Waldron punch and die > sets. I just ordered the sub miniature set. I hope to put it to good and > innovative uses pursuing our wonderful and sometimes crazy hobby. Willing to lend it out? ;-) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 20:45:52 EST From: MAnde72343@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: Sorry, Bob, I need to double check myself, the scheme is Kanmer's, not Klein, and Jasta 35, which Klein never got near. Merrill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 21:23:09 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: dumpster diving wasRe: Machine Guns Message-ID: <4a.ccbce6d.272f870d@aol.com> In a message dated 10/30/00 5:23:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, MAnde72343@aol.com writes: << I asked first, but got permission to 'raid' the dumpster at a commercial cabinet shop, and am still (almost 15 years later) using the 'Formica' laminated plywood parts I salvaged, although for plexi, i pay (by the pound) at a plastics place (scrap at $2 per pound) and have a number of uses for that stuff, especially the thick stuff, it makes a great work surface. Merrill >> 25 years ago I grabbed a bunch of 3/4" birch ply in sheets 3'x5' from a dumpster behind a J.C.Penny's that was being renovated- probably had been in the store since the immediate post war period. I'm STILL using this stuff for diorama bases, shelves around the house etc. RK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:24:13 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: RE: Buying extras - what's the plausible Message-ID: The punishment for mentioning very late wwi aircraft like the dfw 1*9 thingie or the Sopwith Hurri^*(*ane should be to build them in there original biplane and triplane forms including all rigging and then build 10 Airfix DR1's for good measure....... That would of course be for a first offence Ray >Tom Solinski wrote >Stephen! Stephen! Stephen! > >BE VERY CAREFUL!! > >There are people on this list that will create a vodoo doll ( with a proper >yellow face, and olive drab hair) of you and do bad things to it with a >very,very,dull xacto knife. For your own safety and well being >NEVER NEVER NEVER type in the full name of ot (off topic) airplanes! >If you must then use >He-1**, Bf 1-1thingy, and Sp***ire >best yet don't ever mention them at all unless you are referring to the >second half of the First World War! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 00:11:37 EST From: Stephendigiacomo@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: No voodoo dolls please. Message-ID: <7e.c3e8ed4.272fae89@aol.com> Thank you, I will take that and the preceding under advisement. - Well, of course, I meant the second half of WWI when I mentioned those . . . those . . . post 1918 aircraft. -Stephen diGiacomo P.S. I've decided to go ahead and do the kit with a 1930 era U.S. Navy scheme and use some decals from an old f-4 Phantom kit. yes, I am kidding. In a message dated 10/31/2000 12:40:01 AM, tskio4@home.com writes: << The answer to your question lies in a philosophy amongst flying scale model builders. A scale model is never finished, you just tire of adding more details. Tom S >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 23:11:00 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Machine Guns Message-ID: <003901c042f9$6c5d07e0$24ee79a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 7:26 PM Subject: Re: Machine Guns > I asked first, but got permission to 'raid' the dumpster at a commercial > cabinet shop, and am still (almost 15 years later) using the 'Formica' > laminated plywood parts I salvaged, although for plexi, i pay (by the pound) > at a plastics place (scrap at $2 per pound) and have a number of uses for > that stuff, especially the thick stuff, it makes a great work surface. > Merrill > Another thing to look for are building renovators. Usually lots of scrap plexi around, and sometimes some metal flashing and glass panes that were cut to the wrong shape. DB ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 21:15:45 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII Message-ID: <200010310533.VAA13985@mail.rapidnet.net> Have I got a surprise for you. ... that is not Kammerer's (sp) or a Js35 aircraft .. but you either have to buy my CD or wait for the Pfalz book to see who's it really is. GVW has done some reearch on that aircraft and it is really at Jasta .... Whoops. .. almost told Bob ---------- >From: MAnde72343@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: On the 1/72 Toko Pfalz D XII >Date: Mon, Oct 30, 2000, 5:51 pm > > Sorry, Bob, I need to double check myself, the scheme is Kanmer's, not Klein, > and Jasta 35, which Klein never got near. > Merrill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 21:30:47 -0800 (PST) From: Todd Hayes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Archer Fine Transfers Message-ID: <20001031053047.91256.qmail@web9010.mail.yahoo.com> Tom, Woody at Archer's FT said he could do 7 by 9 in. sheets for me in 1:48 if I wanted them. Kind of expensive though, depending on the number of lines on each sheet. $40 per sheet, plus $15 for the negative, and $5 priority mail. So basically $60 for the first sheet, and $40-45 thereafter. Todd --- Morg17ms@aol.com wrote: > I've used the stitiching to do the underside of a > Fokker E.V - worked great > and took all of about 10 min to apply! I used the > 1:72 stuff on my 1:48 > model - just looked more scale. I highly recommend > the product. > > Tom Morgan __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. http://im.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 15:39:47 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi'" Subject: Making fuel lines (and so on) Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C71621BF9@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Hi all, I've got a few moments and thought I'd pass on a technique I've been using for years (and which I was using last night) but which I've never seen mentioned. I don't imagine I'm the only one doing this but I did "invent" it for myself about 10 years ago to make fuel, air and coolant pipe fittings on a scratchbuilt ot fighter I made with the skin *off* I was busy making fuel lines last night to detail a model, and making joiners and T pieces and so forth which are needed to make the "pipes" look like they're properly plumbed and not just glued in place. Last night I was using 5 amp fuse wire, which is about 8thou/0.2mm diameter, but I do this with various sizes down to 0.1mm copper armature wire. To make the joiners I thread a piece of the wire through about a 5cm/2in length of styrene tube, then heat the tube and stretch it like I would a length of sprue. When it cools you have a fine wire with a thin walled plastic sheath which is styrene Cut lengths of tube by rolling the plastic coated wire gently under an Xacto, using the wire as a mandrel to prevent the fine tube crushing, then slipping the tube off the wire for use on another piece being used to make the "piping" You can also make complex parts by layering - I stretch tube over 6 different thicknesses of armature wire and keep a supply handy. To make each pipe connector I have a thin tube about 2mm long slipped oveer the wire and two larger diameter segments about 0.5 mm long slipped over that. I "glue" this with Future, anything else tends to turn the detail into a blob To make some of the fuel taps / switches common in WW1 cockpits start with a piece of styrene rod about 30thou diameter to form the barrel of the tap. Drill it where the "pipes" enter, glue in the pipes. Then slide various sizes of the tiny styrene tubes over the wires until they butt up to the tap barrel to form the connections. All under a magnifier of course, given my eyesight. You can do similar things with the insulation off very fine wire or with lengths of hypodermic needles but stretching your own has some big advantages 1. The styrene is much easier to work than stainless steel tubing. Try to cut some 0.5mm long, 0.4mm dia metal tubes. I can do that *easily* with the styrene tube. 2. The styrene tubes have much thinner walls than the insulation 3. Styrene tubes can be made to fit any wire size, and with judicious choice of mandrel wire can be made to fit inside each other 4. Styrene *can* be glued with normal model glues. I even do this sometimes when I'm using larger sizes though with really fine pieces requiring no strength Future (or probably any varnish) will work fine. 5. The styrene tube can be shaped other than cylindrical. Last nights pipe fittings have octagonal cross section, made from the stretched barrel of an old BIC ballpoint pen. ...but 1. Not much mechanical strength so don't use them for gun barrels. Make the barrel out of stainless steel tube, add fittings with syrene tube Incidentally, when you get to the point of deciding that the best aftermarket Lewis gun isn't good enough - this is a good start. It's also one way to make turnbuckles though IMHO even these still look way overscale. However there are as many uses as your imagination will provide - I made a pretty fair 1/72 flare gun barrel this way once - so it may be worth a try some time Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. 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