WWI Digest 2686 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Photographing Models by "Harris, Mack" 2) Re: Photographing Models by Lee Mensinger 3) Re: A/G decals need a home by Brent.A.Theobald@seagate.com 4) Oops!: A/G decals need a home by Brent.A.Theobald@seagate.com 5) Re: Wing Ripples and Dihedral by Mike Kavanaugh 6) Re: Should I or shouldn't I... by "Michael Kendix" 7) Re: Should I or shouldn't I... by "Matt Bittner" 8) Re: Should I or shouldn't I... by smperry@mindspring.com 9) masters by "dfernet0" 10) Swedish cook-up brag! by JVT7532@aol.com 11) rear view mirrors by "Michael Kendix" 12) Re: rear view mirrors by NodalPoint@aol.com 13) Stripping paint by NodalPoint@aol.com 14) BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? by solvista 15) Re: rear view mirrors by "Matt Bittner" 16) Re: rear view mirrors by "Michael Kendix" 17) Re: rear view mirrors by NodalPoint@aol.com 18) Re: rear view mirrors by NodalPoint@aol.com 19) Re: Phokker Foto by "DAVID BURKE" 20) Re: masters by ERIC HIGHT 21) Re: rear view mirrors by "Michael Kendix" 22) Re: masters by Peter Leonard 23) Kit auction notice by "Mike Franklin" 24) Re: Stripping paint by TomTheAeronut@aol.com 25) Re: rear view mirrors by smperry@mindspring.com 26) Re: MAC Pfalz = Meikraft Pfalz? by "Len Smith" 27) RE: masters by "Gaston Graf" 28) RE: rear view mirrors by "Gaston Graf" 29) RE: possible problem with theWW1 screensaver by "Gaston Graf" 30) Re: HR model Port Victoria PV-7 by "Bob Pearson" 31) Re: BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? by "Bob Pearson" 32) RE: BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? by "Gaston Graf" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 10:49:03 -0500 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Photographing Models Message-ID: Here's another tip for those of you with SLR's. I'm not sure if it works on all kinds of camera's, but on Nikon's you can actually take the lens off and reverse it for a close up lens. Nikon makes an attachment to connect the lens on backwards, but I've had pretty good results just holding it on. It's been awhile since I've done it and I don't remember what I did as far as f-stop, but I believe I had to open it all the way, which would limit your depth of field. But it's a real cheap way to do close up photography. Mack -----Original Message----- From: NodalPoint@aol.com [mailto:NodalPoint@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 11:13 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Photographing Models In a message dated 10/1/00 9:20:07 AM EST, mflake@airmail.net writes: << So now I have a choice. Do I buy digital or SLR? And it's hard even making this decision because I don't see me using the new camera for anything but taking pictures of models. But I've already bought a moderately priced scanner, so I'm already halfway there. >> Marc, If you want to talk cameras, give me a shout off list. I think I might be able to give you some advice. My degree is actually in photography and I work as a photojournalist, I have also been teaching for the last five years. I like to save people as much money as possible when recommending what they should buy for their particular needs. I'm in no way connected with any equipment manufactures so I'd never try to sell you on anything unnecessary. (But I do have a nice chrome Leica M6 that would look great hanging from your neck, still has the warranty cards...;) ) I think you can get hooked up with a good model photographing outfit at a lot less money than you might think. Steve nodalpoint@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:32:50 -0500 From: Lee Mensinger To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu, lemen@x25.net Subject: Re: Photographing Models Message-ID: <39D8B8B2.81377C81@x25.net> The actual area used to focus a camera is the space behind the lens between the lens and the film focal plane. That is why the actual movement of the lens is so small when you turn it as you focus. The lens is really designed to be best from the back side for close up work. The f stop remains basically the same but it will not shut down automatically. You must determine the speed and f stop and apply them after focusing and it is best to do the job manually. I usually used the self timer to avoid motion during the exposure. I did the same thing for Microscope photography with the camera directly mounted to the microscope. I do not know if they still sell the adapter for lens reversal but I suspect they do. Might check at www.nikon.com to find out. Lee M. "Harris, Mack" wrote: > Here's another tip for those of you with SLR's. I'm not sure if it works on > all kinds of camera's, but on Nikon's you can actually take the lens off and > reverse it for a close up lens. Nikon makes an attachment to connect the > lens on backwards, but I've had pretty good results just holding it on. > It's been awhile since I've done it and I don't remember what I did as far > as f-stop, but I believe I had to open it all the way, which would limit > your depth of field. But it's a real cheap way to do close up photography. > Mack > > -----Original Message----- > From: NodalPoint@aol.com [mailto:NodalPoint@aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 11:13 AM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Photographing Models > > In a message dated 10/1/00 9:20:07 AM EST, > mflake@airmail.net writes: > > << So now I have a choice. Do I buy digital or SLR? And > it's hard even > making this decision because I don't see me using the new > camera for > anything but taking pictures of models. But I've already > bought a > moderately priced scanner, so I'm already halfway there. >> > > Marc, > > If you want to talk cameras, give me a shout off list. I > think I might be > able to give you some advice. My degree is actually in > photography and I work > as a photojournalist, I have also been teaching for the last > five years. > > I like to save people as much money as possible when > recommending what they > should buy for their particular needs. I'm in no way > connected with any > equipment manufactures so I'd never try to sell you on > anything unnecessary. > (But I do have a nice chrome Leica M6 that would look great > hanging from your > neck, still has the warranty cards...;) ) > > I think you can get hooked up with a good model > photographing outfit at a lot > less money than you might think. > > Steve > nodalpoint@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:22:15 -0500 From: Brent.A.Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: A/G decals need a home Message-ID: Hey Matt, I would hate to assume these are gone already. I would be very surprised to hear that they are not. If you still have them I would certainly appreciate them. I'll toss a Toko Nieuport or two into the mail for you as well for compensation. I know you aren't into German aircraft so much, but it was awesome seeing the two full scale tripes taking to the sky in Dayton this weekend. Later! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:58:05 -0500 From: Brent.A.Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Oops!: A/G decals need a home Message-ID: Whoops! I'm not sure how I sent this to the list as well as Matt. My apologies. I'll tell ya'll more about the Dayton Fly-In in a bit. Later! Brent Brent.A.Theobald@Seagate.COM@pease1.sr.unh.edu on 10/02/2000 11:32:51 AM Please respond to wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Sent by: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list cc: Subject: Re: A/G decals need a home Hey Matt, I would hate to assume these are gone already. I would be very surprised to hear that they are not. If you still have them I would certainly appreciate them. I'll toss a Toko Nieuport or two into the mail for you as well for compensation. I know you aren't into German aircraft so much, but it was awesome seeing the two full scale tripes taking to the sky in Dayton this weekend. Later! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 12:28:46 -0700 From: Mike Kavanaugh To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Wing Ripples and Dihedral Message-ID: <39D8E1EE.72EA6D20@earthlink.net> Thanks, Lance. I will follow your advice. I would ask, "Why didn't I think of that?", but I'm afraid the answer would be too embarassing. Mike K. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 17:42:14 GMT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Should I or shouldn't I... Message-ID: >From: "Matt Bittner" >True, he doesn't like to fool with airbrushing, > Does this mean he minimizes his time spent using an airbrush or that he doesn't use one at all? Michael _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 12:47:04 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Should I or shouldn't I... Message-ID: <200010021746.KAA12013@falcon.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:47:01 -0400 (EDT), Michael Kendix wrote: > Does this mean he minimizes his time spent using an airbrush or that he > doesn't use one at all? Minimizes his time. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:57:26 -0400 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Should I or shouldn't I... Message-ID: <003101c02c9a$3a4107e0$3cfcaec7@default> > > > Does this mean he minimizes his time spent using an airbrush or that he > > doesn't use one at all? > > Minimizes his time. The #1 side effect of airbrushing is the uncanny effect cleaning up the brush has on one's memory. Suddenly you remember that "other" part that needs to be the just cleaned color. sp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:57:30 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "WW1 modeling Mail List" Subject: masters Message-ID: <043001c02c9a$3bf26160$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> some ideas are lurking in my brain... I don't know if this is any good, but... I wish to know how should I prepare parts to be used as masters in resin castings. Can I use paint to finish some surfaces or the molds will peel that off? any pitfall to avoid? D. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:59:33 EDT From: JVT7532@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Swedish cook-up brag! Message-ID: In a message dated 10/2/2000 1:13:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time, wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu writes: << Swedish cook-up brag! >> Well, we sure know now what a lot of people were doing when they thought the end of the world was coming in the new Millennium. Congratulations to all the new Moms & Pops. Best regards, Jon Jon V. Theisen 7532 Lawndale Ave. Phila., PA 19111-2706 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 18:00:42 GMT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: rear view mirrors Message-ID: Does anyone have first hand experience with making rear view mirros for their aeroplanes? I am working 1/72nd scale so it's fairly tiny. I need to know how best to represent the mirrored surface. Michael _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:06:55 EDT From: NodalPoint@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: <12.30075c4.270a28bf@aol.com> In a message dated 10/2/00 1:02:46 PM EST, mkendix@hotmail.com writes: << Does anyone have first hand experience with making rear view mirros for their aeroplanes? I am working 1/72nd scale so it's fairly tiny. I need to know how best to represent the mirrored surface. >> What about a bit of Mylar for the shiny part. It's extremely thin. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:11:51 EDT From: NodalPoint@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Stripping paint Message-ID: I have a model I wish to re-paint and would like to know how some list members go about removing old paint. (Stripping, sanding, solvent, etc.) The model was originally painted with acrylics but sprayed with a latex (I believe) clear coat. How about removing decals that have been sprayed with a clear coat? How can I remove decals without harming the finish beneath? TIA, Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:16:42 +0100 From: solvista To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? Message-ID: --============_-1241611880==_ma============ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Re: The Dr1 Triplane that Barker shot down just before he was confronted by the entire force of JG3 (the action of 27th Oct 1918) in Snipe E8102 - I was wondering if anyone knows of a reference source for this particular German machine? Indeed, any reference on any of the other 60+ German Machines would be nice, too! :) Thank you. Peter Jones --============_-1241611880==_ma============ Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" BARKER'S LAST KILL ???

        Re: The Dr1 Triplane that Barker shot down just before he was confronted by the entire force of JG3 (the action of 27th Oct 1918) in Snipe E8102 - I was wondering if anyone knows of a reference source for this particular German machine?

        Indeed, any reference on any of the other 60+ German Machines would be nice, too!

        :)

        Thank you.

        Peter Jones
--============_-1241611880==_ma============-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 13:17:52 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: <200010021817.LAA07446@harrier.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:11:36 -0400 (EDT), NodalPoint@aol.com wrote: > << > Does anyone have first hand experience with making rear view mirros for > their aeroplanes? I am working 1/72nd scale so it's fairly tiny. I need to > know how best to represent the mirrored surface. > >> > > What about a bit of Mylar for the shiny part. It's extremely thin. I was also thinking about Bare-Metal foil. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 18:25:49 GMT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: >From: NodalPoint@aol.com >>I need to know how best to represent the mirrored surface. > > >What about a bit of Mylar for the shiny part. It's extremely thin. I'm sorry. I don't know what Mylar is. Michael _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:32:38 EDT From: NodalPoint@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: <79.a502e54.270a2ec6@aol.com> In a message dated 10/2/00 1:18:12 PM EST, tbittners@sprintmail.com writes: << I was also thinking about Bare-Metal foil. >> Good idea too. I have always thought that Mylar kind of gives a glassy effect with a little depth to it. Foil would have to be dulled down a bit. It would be really teeny at 1/72! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:35:15 EDT From: NodalPoint@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: In a message dated 10/2/00 1:28:58 PM EST, mkendix@hotmail.com writes: << I'm sorry. I don't know what Mylar is. >> Well, you probably see Mylar most often in those shiny foil-like balloons. It real thin and flexible. It's also sold in auto stores for window tinting or in hobby shops for covering RC aircraft. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:53:53 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Phokker Foto Message-ID: <003101c02ca2$1ea30c60$25ee79a5@com> sp, That is a phreakingly phine and phastidiously phinished Phokker if'n I ever phantasized one! DB ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:28 AM Subject: Phokker Foto > I posted a photo of my Ukranian Fokker D.VII at: > http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/ukrd7.htm > > sp > > > E-mail smperry@mindspring.com > Web Site http://www.freeyellow.com/members8/wwimodeler/ > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 11:54:40 -0700 From: ERIC HIGHT To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: masters Message-ID: <3.0.3.32.20001002115440.00a070f0@pop.amug.org> D, i would prime the pieces to look for defects other wise no paint unless the paint has some effect on the "finished" part. ie some kind of surface texture you want to impart to the copies. the cleaner the masters the better copies you'll get. the rubber will pick up something as delicate as a spider web. hope this helps any more questions lmk. regards, eric At 02:02 PM 10/2/00 -0400, you wrote: >some ideas are lurking in my brain... I don't know if this is any good, >but... >I wish to know how should I prepare parts to be used as masters in resin >castings. Can I use paint to finish some surfaces or the molds will peel >that off? any pitfall to avoid? >D. > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 19:02:18 GMT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: >From: NodalPoint@aol.com > > >Well, you probably see Mylar most often in those shiny foil-like balloons. >It >real thin and flexible. It's also sold in auto stores for window tinting or >in hobby shops for covering RC aircraft. Thanks very much for your help. Michael _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 20:20:14 +0100 From: Peter Leonard To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: masters Message-ID: <39D8DFEE.A4717833@cwcom.net> I use(d) grey auto primer, really just to pick up any blemishes before committing to that expensive RTV. As Eric says, if you leave so much as a thumb print on your master the mold will pick it up. There was a certain little blemish on my M1C kit which I have seen repeated on somebody elses kit of the same aircraft. Sincerest form of flattery and all that ;) cheers Peter L ERIC HIGHT wrote: > D, > i would prime the pieces to look for defects other wise no paint unless the > paint has some effect on the "finished" part. ie some kind of surface > texture you want to impart to the copies. the cleaner the masters the > better copies you'll get. the rubber will pick up something as delicate as > a spider web. hope this helps any more questions lmk. > regards, > eric > > At 02:02 PM 10/2/00 -0400, you wrote: > >some ideas are lurking in my brain... I don't know if this is any good, > >but... > >I wish to know how should I prepare parts to be used as masters in resin > >castings. Can I use paint to finish some surfaces or the molds will peel > >that off? any pitfall to avoid? > >D. > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 12:17:02 -0700 From: "Mike Franklin" To: Subject: Kit auction notice Message-ID: <001001c02ca5$59080e20$92ecfc9e@picker> I have put some kits up for auction on eBay. It just occurred to me that two of them might have some OT appeal for diorama builders. They both are 1/48 horse drawn carriages, the Tally Ho Coach and the Lafayette Coach. The coaches themselves might not be OT, but the teams of horses and the basic framework could be the basis for some sort of conversion to a WW-1 theme. Point your browsers to: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=455571088 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=455580302 Thanks, Mike Franklin Bellingham, WA USA "No man is so hated as he who will drive the speed limit" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:17:21 EDT From: TomTheAeronut@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Stripping paint Message-ID: In a message dated 10/2/00 1:13:59 PM EST, NodalPoint@aol.com writes: << I have a model I wish to re-paint and would like to know how some list members go about removing old paint. (Stripping, sanding, solvent, etc.) The model was originally painted with acrylics but sprayed with a latex (I believe) clear coat. >> There are a couple ways to go about this. DO NOT use brake fluid, no matter what anybody says. You can either use Strip-A-Kit (recommended) which is non-toxic and guaranteed not to fog clear parts, etc. You paint it on, let it set up about 20 minutes, then take off the paint with a toothbrush or (what I use) the scrubber side of a kitchen sponge. You'll have to repeat the process till everything is lifted off. Second, is use Polly-S ELO (Easy Lift Off). The downside is this is toxic, and can fog clear parts, but not if you only put it on one side of them. Same procedure, paint it on, watch for the paint to "crinkle," take it off as described above. As to taking off decals, the first thing to try is Scotch tape - press it down over the decals and then rip it off. It should lift the decal or at least part of it. Repeat as necessary. If you can't get through the varnish, you may have to use the strippers above. If so, put it directly over the decal, don't wait so long, and take it off with a toothbrush. Another thing to remember when stripping a model is take off all the little parts like pitot tubes, the aileron balances (if it's a one-oh-thingie), etc., because you'll knock them off in the process of scrubbing off the paint. I do this frequently - do a model when it first comes out, it's well-built, but a year later someone comes out with totally cool decals, what do you do? This way you don't have to buy a new one. However, I find I do this much more frequently with ot models than OT, since OT means at least disassembly of the wings and rigging and then doing that over again. Pretty much, when one of the OTs is done, it is *finished*. HTH TC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:30:44 -0400 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: rear view mirrors Message-ID: <001d01c02ca7$431fec20$fdf9aec7@default> Inner silver wrapping on many US candy bars. sp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:53:37 +0100 From: "Len Smith" To: Subject: Re: MAC Pfalz = Meikraft Pfalz? Message-ID: <000701c02ca7$f3ba3040$86847ed4@mesh> Matt K, Very well said, I am in total agreement. Regards Len. lensmith@clara.net http://home.clara.net/lensmith > As for this toko rant thing, I don't know about all of > you, but I prefer a different kind of kit bashing to > what has been going on around here. What happened to > being thankful that you have a kit to start with? > Personally, I have never met the perfect kit, and I > hope I never do! The fun of this hobby is taking what > is in the box and not just building it, but making it > better! This kit "bashing" is getting me down! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:43:50 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: masters Message-ID: Hey D-man, do not paint master models because the paint may peel off when you'll take them out of the first half of the silicone mould after you cast the mould itself. Or, if the paint won't peel off it will become greasy because you will have to apply a thin layer of vaseline over the first half of the mould before casting the second half to avoid vulcanisation of both halves. Can you follow me? Lemme know if you need more detailed instructions or read Sheperd Paines "How to build Dioramas" :o). Hmmmm...... perhaps I should write an article for the IM about building moulds and casting parts? Was such topic already covered? always watch your six Gaston (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > > > some ideas are lurking in my brain... I don't know if this is any good, > but... > I wish to know how should I prepare parts to be used as masters in resin > castings. Can I use paint to finish some surfaces or the molds will peel > that off? any pitfall to avoid? > D. > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 21:56:28 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: rear view mirrors Message-ID: ...or aluminium foil used in the household, covered with gloss varnish to simulate the mirror glass ;o) Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > smperry@mindspring.com > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 9:31 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: rear view mirrors > > > Inner silver wrapping on many US candy bars. > > sp > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:03:37 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: possible problem with theWW1 screensaver Message-ID: I figured that out in the meantime, thanks. But the problem doen't occur when using standart screen savers such as "flying through space" or "flying windows". These screensavers don't need hd access for as long as you won't move the mouse until defrag finished. Gaston > > Always turn off a screen saver when you run DEFRAG. The screensaver > interferes in two ways, especially one that puts up random photos > or slides, > first, it is taking processor time, and second, every time it accesses the > harddrive for a new picture or virtual memory page, it rewrites > what DEFRAG > is trying to monitor. I have seen the DEFRAG send the repeated error > message on computers > where people are running one of the random generated graphics > screensavers, > so it would be a lot worse with one that is loading large image files. > > .Mark. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 12:51:01 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: HR model Port Victoria PV-7 Message-ID: <200010022017.NAA12109@mail.rapidnet.net> Drat, I knew I should have done that inbox review for the present issue. I got the PV-7 and will be reviewing it in the next IM. Quick comment . .. it is a cute little kit. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 13:03:58 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? Message-ID: <200010022017.NAA12113@mail.rapidnet.net> Peter, By the time of Barker's fight it is likely that the only Triplane still in frontline service was Jacobs 450/17. . I forget when it was destroyed in an air raid on the aerodrome. . some time in October. However, Barker never shot down a Triplane ... his first three victories in France were Albatros D.III/Vs, followed by 43 in Italy. All of these were in Camel B6313. His final victories after returning to France and using the Snipe were a Rumpler C and three D.VIIs. Crews of these four aircraft are unknown AFAIK. The best source on Barker is the biography by Wayne Ralph. Most of what was written prior to this book is 'Boy's Own' type tripe. Bob ---------- >From: solvista > Re: The Dr1 Triplane that Barker shot down just before he was > confronted by the entire force of JG3 (the action of 27th Oct 1918) > in Snipe E8102 - I was wondering if anyone knows of a reference > source for this particular German machine? > > Indeed, any reference on any of the other 60+ German Machines > would be nice, too! > > :) > > Thank you. > > Peter Jones ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:29:09 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? Message-ID: Bob, according to the Windsock Datafile Special about the Fokker Dr.1, Jacobs 450/17 was delivered Febuary 28, 1918 and destroyed in an attack by Camels on Jasta 7 aearodrome on Oktober 19,1918. Jacobs Dr1 was fitted with Clergets and partially armored. beware of the hun in the sun ;o) Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Bob Pearson > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 10:12 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: BARKER'S LAST KILL ??? > > > Peter, > > By the time of Barker's fight it is likely that the only Triplane still in > frontline service was Jacobs 450/17. . I forget when it was > destroyed in an > air raid on the aerodrome. . some time in October. > > However, Barker never shot down a Triplane ... his first three > victories in > France were Albatros D.III/Vs, followed by 43 in Italy. All of > these were in > Camel B6313. His final victories after returning to France and using the > Snipe were a Rumpler C and three D.VIIs. Crews of these four aircraft are > unknown AFAIK. > > The best source on Barker is the biography by Wayne Ralph. Most > of what was > written prior to this book is 'Boy's Own' type tripe. > > Bob > > ---------- > >From: solvista > > > Re: The Dr1 Triplane that Barker shot down just before he was > > confronted by the entire force of JG3 (the action of 27th Oct 1918) > > in Snipe E8102 - I was wondering if anyone knows of a reference > > source for this particular German machine? > > > > Indeed, any reference on any of the other 60+ German Machines > > would be nice, too! > > > > :) > > > > Thank you. > > > > Peter Jones ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2686 **********************