WWI Digest 2669 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Cross & Cockade USA-4sale by BStett3770@aol.com 2) RE: Fokker Dr.I question by "Gaston Graf" 3) Re: ot news by "DAVID BURKE" 4) Re: Fokker Dr.I question by "DAVID BURKE" 5) Re: Fokker Dr.I question by "DAVID BURKE" 6) RE: WWI Screen saver by "Gaston Graf" 7) Re: MF 11 by "DAVID BURKE" 8) The Flying Roush Brothers by "DAVID BURKE" 9) Re: MF 11 by "DAVID BURKE" 10) Re: Vimy questions by "Neil Crawford" 11) Re: Vimy questions by "Candice Uhlir" 12) Re: Fokker Dr.I question by "Tom Solinski" 13) RE: Fokker Dr.I question by Shane Weier 14) Re: Tango Papa lozenge decals by "Nigel Rayner" 15) Wood Grain Decals! Where????? by "Tom Solinski" 16) Re:DH10 1976 Question by pugs99@att.net 17) Re: Fokker Dr.I question by "DAVID BURKE" 18) Re: Fokker Dr.I question by Mark Miller 19) Re: Fokker Dr.I question by "DAVID BURKE" 20) Re: Cross & Cockade USA-4sale by "Bob Pearson" 21) RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? by "Gaston Graf" 22) Re: Red Green was: Fokker Dr.I question by "Brad & Merville" 23) RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? by Brent.A.Theobald@seagate.com 24) RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? by "Candice Uhlir" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:38:45 EDT From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Cross & Cockade USA-4sale Message-ID: <15.9aa4e70.27026355@aol.com> Hi Gang Just picked up another full set of Cross & Cockade USA Vol. #1 1960 to Vol.#26 1985 all but Vol. 26 - 4 issues, Vol. 26 only had 2 issues before C&C USA shut down. Set in VG shape I'll offer to the group before I put it on Ebay. $675 includes book rate post (USA only) (if outside USA we'll work something out) 102 issues total, so it works out to $6.62 per issue, most go on Ebay for $10.00 + as singles E-mail off group if interested @ bstett3770@aol.com Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:42:27 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: LOL - NoNoNo it was really painted that way! They dipped a round brush into paint and pulled it straight accross the fabric without reloading it until it ran out of paint. Then they dipped in into the pot again and restarted where the last fading streaks appeard. This gave it a nice camouflage look. No joke - that was really how they did it. Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Mark Miller > Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:54 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question > > > On Tue, 26 September 2000, "Matt Bittner" wrote: > > > > > Quick Dr.I color question. What would the size of the brush be in > > 1/72nd if you wanted to replicate the exact same way the streaking was > > applied at the Fokker factory? For that matter, I'm sure one of the > > Balloon Head's would like to know about the size of the brush in > > 1/48th, as well. > > > > > > Matt Bittner > > I don't know where I got this idea - but I thought the streaking > was a result of a bad fabric dye which ran in the rain - ???? > > Mark > > > _______________________________________________________________________ > > Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now! > http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html > > _______________________________________________________________________ > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:40:44 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: ot news Message-ID: <002b01c027fa$e9852be0$25e179a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 12:07 PM Subject: Re: ot news > In a message dated 9/26/00 10:40:10 AM EST, carlos.valdes@conted.gatech.edu > writes: > > << I know it's ot, but I thought the news that WWII ace Saburo Sakai died > last Friday might be of interest to some on the list. Although this is a very off-topic subject, it saddens me that one as great as Sakai has passed on, and it is a shame. I was always impressed with him as he struck me as a truly remarkable man. So many of our heroes are gone, yet as long as we remember them and what they did, they'll be around forever. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:46:54 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <002d01c027fa$eb380c00$25e179a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Miller" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 1:53 PM Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question > On Tue, 26 September 2000, "Matt Bittner" wrote: > > > > > Quick Dr.I color question. What would the size of the brush be in > > 1/72nd if you wanted to replicate the exact same way the streaking was > > applied at the Fokker factory? For that matter, I'm sure one of the > > Balloon Head's would like to know about the size of the brush in > > 1/48th, as well. > > > > > > Matt Bittner > > I don't know where I got this idea - but I thought the streaking was a result of a bad fabric dye which ran in the rain - ???? > > Mark > Nope, someone left the cake out in the rain. The streaking was factory-applied with a paint or dope. It appears that the streaking was an attempt to provide a very light-weight camo, as little extra weight would have been added by such a scheme. The streaks were done with an 8cm brush, and the color was applied at an angle to the wing ribs and top of fuselage and vertical on the fuselage sides. The brush was dipped into the color and used until practically dry. It was not re-dipped between individual strokes. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:42:32 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <002c01c027fa$ea6ea180$25e179a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Beamish" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 12:54 PM Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question > > Quick Dr.I color question. What would the size of the brush be in > > 1/72nd if you wanted to replicate the exact same way the streaking was > > applied at the Fokker factory? For that matter, I'm sure one of the > > Balloon Head's would like to know about the size of the brush in > > 1/48th, as well. > > Matt > David Burke has this one figured out. I can't remember exactly what it was. > He had a very good technique. > Dale > And here I am! The original Fokker streaking was done with an 8cm brush. If you use a scale calculator, you find that that's about 1 1/2-2 mm for 1/48 scale. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:54:33 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: WWI Screen saver Message-ID: Steve, depending on your OS you can use any pictures straight from your HD too define them as a screensaver. In MS Windos ME a very nice screensaver is included, allowing to display the picturess from the "My Pictures" folder using various effects. Perhaps Win2000 has this feature build in too, I don't know. regards Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > > > > When I was at Old Rhienbeck recently I noticed that the computer > they were > using in the gift shop had photos of their a/c in flight as a slideshow > screen saver. And the photos looked pretty well done too. A lot > of air-to-air > stuff. > > I dont know if they sell this as screensaver or if it was just > for their own > use. You might want to give their gift shop a call and see if its > available. > There's a link and phone # on their web site. > > Steve ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:49:31 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: MF 11 Message-ID: <004e01c027fc$72044c20$25e179a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lance Krieg" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:48 PM Subject: MF 11 > A couple people have asked about this plane and the refernces available.. > > There is a Romanian booklet, reviewed on Peter Leonard's (?) web site, that describes this plane in Romanian service. > > I looked closely at the book at the US IPMS Nationals, but thought that the small pictures, Romanian text, and slimness of the tome were negatives that the large fold-out plans could not overcome, and passed on it. > > IIRC, David Burke snatched one up, though, and perhaps can comment on the engine pictures currently being sought. > > Over to you, DB. > > Lance > I hope that you don't regret it Lance! There are some good drawings of the engine, but photos are scarce. I'll pick thru it some more and see what I can find. Also, I picked up a French photojournal on the air war in WWI. I will check to see what is in there. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:57:51 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: The Flying Roush Brothers Message-ID: <005001c027fc$74469b00$25e179a5@com> Hi Guys, Well, after coming back from my trip to Illinois, I remember something that I wanted to ask. At the Crawford County museum, there is a display on the Flying Roush Brothers. They were early aviators, and flew the mail in Crawford county. One of their first aircraft, if not their first, was apparently a home-built version of a Bleriot or something. Following WWI, they got ahold of a surplus Jenny. Does anybody have any ideas where I might find some info on these guys? I hope that I'm not going too ot here, as they were early American Aviators, and I was hoping to get some drawings of this crate, perhaps for modelling an early home-built American airplane for the museum. By the way, they have one of the Roush's early flat 2-cylinder aero engines there. It's a beast of an engine for a 2-cyl! TIA! DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:50:02 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: MF 11 Message-ID: <004f01c027fc$737d3080$25e179a5@com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kendix" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 3:05 PM Subject: Re: MF 11 > >From: "Lance Krieg" > > > >There is a Romanian booklet, reviewed on Peter Leonard's (?) web site, that > >describes this plane in Romanian service. > > > >I looked closely at the book at the US IPMS Nationals, but thought >that > >the small pictures, Romanian text, and slimness of the tome were >negatives > >that the large fold-out plans could not overcome, and >passed on it. > > > > Lance: > > This is not correct. The Romanian book, reviewed by Peter in IM is on the > Farman F-40, which also has a Renault 80hp engine, I think. I ordered it > from The Aviation Bookshop in London and the whole thing including S&H was > around $12, which I thought was alright. I wonder how much it was priced at > the Nationals? 7 bucks. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:55:32 +0200 From: "Neil Crawford" To: Subject: Re: Vimy questions Message-ID: <20000926210328.CBRF23228.fep04-svc.swip.net@default> Candice wrote: >1) Props: They scale out to a 10.8' diameter from the 1/72 >datafile >drawings. THe biggest 4 bladed prop I can find is aeroclub at >9.6'. I am >building this aircraft as a Liberty powered one.....the scale >drawings have >the "eagle". >A Does anyone know of a good prop source for the Vimy.? >B) Did the liberty have greater RPMs than the Eagle powered >bird.so maybe I >can use the smaller diameter prop?? This reminds me that I have written a thing about carving props, here it is, it doesn't exactly answer your question Candice, but its much more fun than buying a propeller, and nowhere near as difficult as people think, I do it even when I don't need to because it's such fun. Having seen your models I don't think it should give you any problems. Best regards Neil Carving Propellers ----------------------------- I use the Harry Woodman method for making propellers. With one change, I use cyan-acrylat instead of wood glue, I find CA gives more strength, and sands down as well as wood. I start by finding good wood, usually I use mahogny (I think) which I buy in hobby shops, its used by model ship builders for planking hulls, and deck. The big advantage is that it is so thin, I can get in 5 or 6 laminations in a 1/72 scale propellor. By sanding down each lamination, I can get in another lamination. I also use marquetry wood, marquetry is an old hobby of doing pictures in different kinds of wood, I'm not sure if this kind of wood is still available, but if so get some! I cut lengths of plank, a litle bigger than required, and as many laminations as possible, within the height of the propeller. Then I don my gas-mask, glue them together, and leave the room for the evening. I am allergic to CA like a good many other people I know, that stuff is a real health hazard. I once stayed away from work with what I thought was influensa, every time I felt better I did some modelling, and got worse, after a week I realised it was the CA causing it! Next step is to get out the plans, some photos, and try and find an old model propeller with the same twist and rotation direction. The old propeller is because it's so easy to get mixed up, if you have something to copy from when you start carving, it will save some trashed attempts. I usually do a couple of slices with a sharp knife in all 4 directions (front and back on two blades). I try to cut deeper near the boss and taper off outwards. If the carving is sucessful, its really just a matter of sanding from now on, in fact you could skip the carving completely, but I find sanding a little tedious. What often happens is that the propeller splinters and too much comes off when carving, thats the nice thing about CA, you can just glue the bits on again, it actually strengthens the propeller. Check references constantly during sanding, the close it gets to finished, the finer sandpaper you should use. Finally start varnishing, sand down between each layer of varnish with 1000 grade wet and dry sandpaper (used dry). Four blade propellers are made in the same way, but you have to cut every other lamination in half, and then glue a whole one in one direction, then two halves in the other direction, then a whole, and so on. ---------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:16:17 GMT From: "Candice Uhlir" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Vimy questions Message-ID: Cool...I may just try this... Candice >From: "Neil Crawford" >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Vimy questions >Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:07:44 -0400 (EDT) > >Candice wrote: > >1) Props: They scale out to a 10.8' diameter from the 1/72 > >datafile > >drawings. THe biggest 4 bladed prop I can find is aeroclub at > >9.6'. I am > >building this aircraft as a Liberty powered one.....the scale > >drawings have > >the "eagle". > >A Does anyone know of a good prop source for the Vimy.? > >B) Did the liberty have greater RPMs than the Eagle powered > >bird.so maybe I > >can use the smaller diameter prop?? > >This reminds me that I have written a thing about carving >props, here it is, it doesn't exactly answer your question >Candice, but its much more fun than buying a propeller, and >nowhere near as difficult as people think, I do it even when I >don't need to because it's such fun. Having seen your models >I don't think it should give you any problems. >Best regards Neil > >Carving Propellers >----------------------------- >I use the Harry Woodman method for making propellers. With >one change, I use cyan-acrylat instead of wood glue, I find >CA gives more strength, and sands down as well as wood. >I start by finding good wood, usually I use mahogny (I think) >which I buy in hobby shops, its used by model ship builders >for planking hulls, and deck. The big advantage is that it is >so thin, I can get in 5 or 6 laminations in a 1/72 scale >propellor. By sanding down each lamination, I can get in another >lamination. I also use marquetry wood, marquetry is an old hobby >of doing pictures in different kinds of wood, I'm not sure if >this kind of wood is still available, but if so get some! >I cut lengths of plank, a litle bigger than required, and as >many laminations as possible, within the height of the propeller. >Then I don my gas-mask, glue them together, and leave the room >for the evening. I am allergic to CA like a good many other >people I know, that stuff is a real health hazard. I once stayed >away from work with what I thought was influensa, every time I >felt better I did some modelling, and got worse, after a week I >realised it was the CA causing it! Next step is to get out the >plans, some photos, and try and find an old model propeller with >the same twist and rotation direction. The old propeller is >because it's so easy to get mixed up, if you have something >to copy from when you start carving, it will save some trashed >attempts. I usually do a couple of slices with a sharp knife in >all 4 directions (front and back on two blades). I try to cut >deeper near the boss and taper off outwards. If the carving is >sucessful, its really just a matter of sanding from now on, in >fact you could skip the carving completely, but I find sanding a >little tedious. What often happens is that the propeller >splinters and too much comes off when carving, thats the nice >thing about CA, you can just glue the bits on again, it actually >strengthens the propeller. Check references constantly during >sanding, the close it gets to finished, the finer sandpaper you >should use. Finally start varnishing, sand down between each >layer of varnish with 1000 grade wet and dry sandpaper (used >dry). Four blade propellers are made in the same way, but you >have to cut every other lamination in half, and then glue a whole >one in one direction, then two halves in the other direction, then >a whole, and so on. > >---------- > > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:31:09 -0500 From: "Tom Solinski" To: Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <008001c02801$16933b80$12330e18@Solinski.okc1.ok.home.com> Schuster and Engels (FOKKER V5/Dr.1 page 14) estimate the brush to be 8cm. or about 3.15 inches Tom S OKC If you aren't making waves, you aren't making headway! ----- Original Message ----- From: Lance Krieg To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 1:05 PM Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question > Matt wonders: > > " What would the size of the brush ... to replicate the ...streaking" > > IIRC the brushes were 10 cm, or about 4 inches. > > Ergo, 1/72 = 1.389mm or 1/18 inch > > and 1/48 = 2.083mm or 1/12 inch > > Or am I mathematically challenged? > > Lance > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:34:32 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <7186131CB805D411A60E0090272F7C71621A89@mimhexch1.mim.com.au> Matt asks: > Quick Dr.I color question. What would the size of the brush be in > 1/72nd if you wanted to replicate the exact same way the streaking was > applied at the Fokker factory? For that matter, I'm sure one of the > Balloon Head's would like to know about the size of the brush in > 1/48th, as well. Imrie says (IIRC) that they used 75mm brushes (or maybe my mind is rounding this up or down to the nearest inch since 75mm is ~= 3") Either way, that works out to damn near 1mm in 1/72 scale and 1.5mm in 1/48 Pick a modelling paintbrush to suit and have at it. Shane ********************************************************************** The information contained in this e-mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this e-mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this e-mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted e-mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Support Centre. e-mail: supportcentre@mim.com.au phone: Australia 1800500646 ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:46:51 +0100 From: "Nigel Rayner" To: Subject: Re: Tango Papa lozenge decals Message-ID: <000801c02803$48e2a600$7280883e@w1o0t3> Hi all, Somone was asking recently about lozenge decals and Tango Papa. I have some of these in munchkin and braille scale, and although they're ok, options from A/G, Pegasus or CSM are probably better. The tango Papa decals are ALPS or similar printed at a relatively low resolution (as someone more knowledgable than me pointed out). This gives them a faded look, which may not be unconvincing (there was an idea in a thread a long way back that lozenge fabric might have had a "faded denim" kind of look). However, someone on the list suggested they may have been a scan of existing decals. I asked Barry to check the provenance but haven't heard back from him (he does not produce the decals himself). I have Aeromaster and Pegasus and they don't look like them. My own favourites are Pegasus (although they're difficult to get and sell out very quickly). I find Aeromaster difficult to apply, being quite thick. Obviously YMMV. Cheers, Nigel ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 16:40:09 -0500 From: "Tom Solinski" To: Subject: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? Message-ID: <00e001c02802$58183140$12330e18@Solinski.okc1.ok.home.com> OK team Time for more trivia Several of you have spoken of using wood grain decals. Someone mentioned a rail road supply, another said Tarro, and I vaguely recall a third source. Yet all the web searching I do runs into dead ends. Is there a source of both 48th and 72nd wood grain, or am I going to be forced into learning a new aspect of painting? TIA Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:58:11 +0000 From: pugs99@att.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re:DH10 1976 Question Message-ID: <20000926215811.IHEP4085.mtiwmhc24.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att.net> Hi Candice, You do have 2 earlier versions of the DH10. The 1976 release is known as the "700" series. They were Aurora's last attempt at cleaning up and "accurizing" the old WWI line of kits. They did pretty well with the first few kits, removing the markings, cleaning them up etc.. You probably will find some collector interest in you #125, especially if it has a "Famous Fighters" logo on the box. The K&B kit was a later re-packaging of the Aurora kits. The 1976 kits also had built-up kits on the box top. Any other questions, feel free to email me. Hope this helps!! Regards, John P.S. Many moons ago, a book called WWI in Plastic was done by Brad Hansen. It is updated to 1982 if I remember correctly and was pretty interesting in that it gave a history of the WWI kits available at that time. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:05:32 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <000d01c02805$e5017780$83e679a5@com> > Matt asks: > > > Quick Dr.I color question. What would the size of the brush be in > > 1/72nd if you wanted to replicate the exact same way the streaking was > > applied at the Fokker factory? For that matter, I'm sure one of the > > Balloon Head's would like to know about the size of the brush in > > 1/48th, as well. > Shane said: > Either way, that works out to damn near 1mm in 1/72 scale and 1.5mm in 1/48 > Pick a modelling paintbrush to suit and have at it. > That's about it. Anyway, I used Floquil's Antique White for the CDL color, and used Testors RLM 70 Acrylic mixed with Future (about 60-40). That's so not only won't your streaking color mix with the undercolor, but also, if you screw up, you can take it off easily. DB ------------------------------ Date: 26 Sep 2000 14:55:35 -0700 From: Mark Miller To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <20000926215535.17660.cpmta@c012.sfo.cp.net> > Nope, someone left the cake out in the rain. The streaking was > factory-applied with a paint or dope. It appears that the streaking was an > attempt to provide a very light-weight camo, as little extra weight would > have been added by such a scheme. The streaks were done with an 8cm brush, > and the color was applied at an angle to the wing ribs and top of fuselage > and vertical on the fuselage sides. The brush was dipped into the color and > used until practically dry. It was not re-dipped between individual > strokes. > > > DB Thanks That does sound more reasonable. And it does look like a dry brush effect in the photos. Only thing I can't figure out is where I got that screwy idea in the first place I don't think I dreamed it Mark _______________________________________________________________________ Free Unlimited Internet Access! Try it now! http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/altavista/index.html _______________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:26:31 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <001101c02808$d3754020$83e679a5@com> > Thanks > That does sound more reasonable. And it does look like a dry brush effect in the photos. > Only thing I can't figure out is where I got that screwy idea in the first place > I don't think I dreamed it > > Mark > It's OK man, I've been known to have wild hallucinations from time to time! DB nw (now watching): The Best of Red Green. For those who don't know about Red Green, it is a true Canadian treasure, and one of the funniest damned things I have ever seen! Duct Tape! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:29:25 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cross & Cockade USA-4sale Message-ID: <200009262239.PAA08933@mail.rapidnet.net> Damn. . right after I emptied the banlk account :-( Bob ---------- > Hi Gang > > Just picked up another full set of Cross & Cockade USA > Vol. #1 1960 to Vol.#26 1985 all but Vol. 26 - 4 issues, Vol. 26 only had 2 > issues before C&C USA shut down. > > Keep Modeling > Barry > Rosemont Hobby > www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 00:30:49 +0200 From: "Gaston Graf" To: Subject: RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? Message-ID: AfaIk Microscale made some, but I think they are hard to find. Thanks for coming up with that question. I hope others will have an answer ready since I need wood for my Boelcke Albatros D.II ;o). Gaston Graf (ggraf@vo.lu) Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Tom Solinski > Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 11:45 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? > > > OK team > Time for more trivia > > Several of you have spoken of using wood grain decals. Someone > mentioned a > rail road supply, another said Tarro, and I vaguely recall a third source. > Yet all the web searching I do runs into dead ends. > > Is there a source of both 48th and 72nd wood grain, or am I going to be > forced into learning a new aspect of painting? > TIA > Tom S > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:38:19 -0400 From: "Brad & Merville" To: Subject: Re: Red Green was: Fokker Dr.I question Message-ID: <003c01c0280a$792f4960$9a885ad1@The_Grenade.Workgroup> Ah, Red Green, a true hero to all modeller's everywhere! "If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy!" Red Green -----Original Message----- From: DAVID BURKE To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:30 PM Subject: Re: Fokker Dr.I question >> Thanks >> That does sound more reasonable. And it does look like a dry brush effect >in the photos. >> Only thing I can't figure out is where I got that screwy idea in the first >place >> I don't think I dreamed it >> >> Mark >> > >It's OK man, I've been known to have wild hallucinations from time to time! > > >DB > >nw (now watching): The Best of Red Green. For those who don't know about >Red Green, it is a true Canadian treasure, and one of the funniest damned >things I have ever seen! Duct Tape! > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:40:04 -0500 From: Brent.A.Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? Message-ID: Howdy! The simplest answer really is just to learn to paint your own. We have a cookbook going on somewhere which lists the different ways to achieve the effect. Furthermore, no woodgrain decals look as good to me as the painted woodgrain. I imagine it has something to do with decals being printed and the limitations the process has with shading. The painted woodgrain can have very nice and realistic shading. If I can do it I know you can! Later! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 22:49:32 GMT From: "Candice Uhlir" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? Message-ID: Squadron used to sell some from Eastern Europe in their catalog...Vamp has some this (hot off their site) Two sheets 12x18 cm / Propagteam $1.60 Candice PS. I also buy some from my local hobby shop from ChimneyVille (railroad supply Co) >From: "Gaston Graf" >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: RE: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? >Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:35:55 -0400 (EDT) > >AfaIk Microscale made some, but I think they are hard to find. > >Thanks for coming up with that question. I hope others will have an answer >ready since I need wood for my Boelcke Albatros D.II ;o). > > Gaston Graf >(ggraf@vo.lu) >Meet the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" at: >http://www.jastaboelcke.de > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > > Tom Solinski > > Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 11:45 PM > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: Wood Grain Decals! Where????? > > > > > > OK team > > Time for more trivia > > > > Several of you have spoken of using wood grain decals. Someone > > mentioned a > > rail road supply, another said Tarro, and I vaguely recall a third >source. > > Yet all the web searching I do runs into dead ends. > > > > Is there a source of both 48th and 72nd wood grain, or am I going to be > > forced into learning a new aspect of painting? > > TIA > > Tom S > > > > > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2669 **********************