WWI Digest 2560 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Armor in the One True Scale by Shane & Lorna Jenkins 2) RE: Morane AI cockpits by "Webmaster Jasta Boelcke" 3) RE: More OT at Modeling Madness by "John Glaser" 4) new guy - kit question by Myles Miller 5) RE: More OT at Modeling Madness by "dfernet0" 6) Re: new guy - kit question by "Bob Pearson" 7) RE: new guy - kit question by "Graham Hunter" 8) RB-3D by "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" 9) Re: new guy - kit question by "Matt Bittner" 10) Re: War Story (was Re: background noise) by Mark Vaughan-Jackson 11) Roden D.VI Looksie by "Matt Bittner" 12) RE: Roden D.VI Looksie by "dfernet0" 13) RB1 maps, and commands needed by K129000@aol.com 14) RE: Roden D.VI Looksie by "Matt Bittner" 15) Re: Brush Painting by "Nigel Rayner" 16) Dreadnaughts by K129000@aol.com 17) RE: Future and WWI vs WWII vs Jets by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 18) RE: Kids and Models by "Tomasz Gronczewski" 19) Re: new guy - kit question by "Bob Pearson" 20) Re: Tamiya Field Kitchen by K129000@aol.com 21) Re: War Story (was Re: background noise) by Albatrosdv@aol.com 22) Re: Kids and Models by K129000@aol.com 23) RE: Tamiya Field Kitchen by "dfernet0" 24) In stock at Hannant's by Albatrosdv@aol.com 25) Re: Brush Painting by "Lance Krieg" 26) Congratulations Brad and Merville by "Bob Pearson" 27) Re: Brush Painting by "Dale Sebring" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 02:47:00 +1000 From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Armor in the One True Scale Message-ID: <399D6884.DD4328DB@tac.com.au> GRBroman@aol.com wrote: > > Hey all, just got a care package froma friend in the UK. He sent the new Emhar WW I figure and artillery sets in 1/72. I'll be doing a review of these for the IPMS (UK) magazine. Also announced was a 1/72 A7V. Since my first vacuform was a Modakit or Raretanks A7V many years ago, and that's still the best A7V availabel, this is indeed welcome news. > Glen Hi Glen, Good news. Now I'll have to get up to Brissie (Brisbane, Queensland to the non Aussies) & take copious photos of the A7V "Mephisto" there (as well as HMAS Diamantina ;-) ). Might stir up some trouble with the "cane toads" while we're there ;-) Shane APMA VP http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm Having fun making models ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 19:58:52 +0200 From: "Webmaster Jasta Boelcke" To: Subject: RE: Morane AI cockpits Message-ID: Interesting...but trying to load that website ended up in Error 404, page not found (in French) :o(. Gaston Graf Webmaster of the Royal Prussian Fighter Squadron 2 "Boelcke" http://www.jastaboelcke.de > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Len Smith > Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 7:44 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Morane AI cockpits > > > Hi Dave, > > Welcome back ! Merrill has already given the best advice, go to the > Memorial Flight web site > http://citeweb.net/memorial-flight/index.html , but > only when you have an hour or so to spare. Not because it is > slow loading, > it isn't, but because there are so many photos that you will want > them all. > There are sections containing 'in progress' photos on restorations of the > Morane AI, Bleriot XI-2, Spad XIII and SE5a (there is also a Fokker Dr1 > that I haven't visited) that will have you drooling into your > beer. Super detailers beware, this is serious stuff. > > Regards Len > > lensmith@clara.net > http://home.clara.net/lensmith > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David Vosburgh > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 12:29 AM > Subject: Morane AI cockpits > > > > Hi, All > > > > Long time no post --- has everybody been playing nicely since I've been > away? How many > > Daves do we have now? > > > > I've been spending my time this year doing largely silly things (i.e., > non-modeling) but > > have just gotten my grubby little paws on a copy of Eric's MS > AI kit which > I'm going to be > > photographing for the CSM Web site. Needless to say this has inspired me > to start hacking > > away at it once the pictures are shot... does anyone have any > refs for the > cockpit area? I > > looked through my index of WWI Aeros, and #108 had something in it; > needless to say that's > > about three issues before my collection starts. > > > > Any and all input greatly appreciated, as always. I'll be in > digest mode, > so it may take > > me a day or so to answer... > > > > All best, > > > > Dave Vosburgh > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:56:40 -0500 From: "John Glaser" To: Subject: RE: More OT at Modeling Madness Message-ID: <000301c0093d$aa2dd7c0$8d00000a@jcgws> I thought Goring flew for the Germans. -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of dfernet0 Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 7:55 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: More OT at Modeling Madness Mark asks > hard landing perhaps? Nope. Fat pilot. D. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 11:10:49 -0700 From: Myles Miller To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: new guy - kit question Message-ID: <4.1.20000818110016.009f2b40@mail> Hello, I'm an archeologist who has recently returned to the modeling hobby after a long absence since childhood. Over the past two years I've been working on a range of subjects in WW II armor and aircraft, but have recently returned to what was really my first hobby as a kid - WWI aircraft. I remember building (and unfortunately destroying during imagined dogfights) dozens of model WW I aircraft in the mid to late-60s - wish I could remember the kit and company names. OK, to move on from my introduction, my question today is: where are all the 1/48 kits? While checking vendor sites I noticed what appear to be some relatively inexpensive but well-done DML 1/48 scale kits for Fokker DVIII, DRI, Spads, etc. These kits have PE parts, rigging, and so forth. However, they are listed as "out of production". Do any of these kits exist for sale anywhere? Does it seem that there aren't very many options listed for 1/48 scale WWI aircraft? Or, am I overlooking some options due to my inexperience? Also, what are your recommendations for companies making really nice and detailed 1/72 scale kits? Thanks for your help, Myles ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:13:24 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: More OT at Modeling Madness Message-ID: <051501c00940$0005a220$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> ----- Original Message ----- From: John Glaser > I thought Goring flew for the Germans. > In fact, Herr Göring was quite elegant (if a bit flashy) during WW1. I can't remember a chubby WW1 pilot. Lufbery? Not so much... D. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 11:20:54 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: new guy - kit question Message-ID: <200008181832.LAA28670@mail.rapidnet.net> Myles, One word answers all your queries - EDUARD. Right now they must have close to 2 dozen 1/48 kits out. These vary in quality from a good kit hidden in thick sprues and flash, to those that Tamiya would be envious of. They are also branching out into 1/72 scale. For available kits from Eduard and others check out Barry Stettler's shop - Rosemont Hobbies www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby or Lubos Vinar's VAMP Mail Order http://w3.inshop.cz/vamp You will see many great new companies producing both injected and resin kits in both scales. Also take a look at Internet Modeler for reviews of the various kits. Regards, Bob Pearson Visit my WW1 Aviation page http://members.xoom.com/Sopwith_5F1 For the CBR/RNP Profile page visit http://members.xoom.com/profileart/ Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.internetmodeler.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 13:27:23 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: RE: new guy - kit question Message-ID: <000201c00941$f4a433e0$fa0101c0@grahamh> Welcome to the list Myles. There are several companies offering 1/48 scale WWI a/c. They are Eduard (currently the Tamiya of WWI a/c), Copper State Models, Blue Max and Spin Models (resin). Eduard has quite a bit to offer at reasonable prices. Dragon also still has a few offerings. There is also a few "garage" kits too. As for that other scale I'm sure Matt will fill you in... Regards, Graham H. -----Original Message----- Myles Miller Hello, I'm an archeologist who has recently returned to the modeling hobby after a long absence since childhood. Over the past two years I've been working on a range of subjects in WW II armor and aircraft, but have recently returned to what was really my first hobby as a kid - WWI aircraft. I remember building (and unfortunately destroying during imagined dogfights) dozens of model WW I aircraft in the mid to late-60s - wish I could remember the kit and company names. OK, to move on from my introduction, my question today is: where are all the 1/48 kits? While checking vendor sites I noticed what appear to be some relatively inexpensive but well-done DML 1/48 scale kits for Fokker DVIII, DRI, Spads, etc. These kits have PE parts, rigging, and so forth. However, they are listed as "out of production". Do any of these kits exist for sale anywhere? Does it seem that there aren't very many options listed for 1/48 scale WWI aircraft? Or, am I overlooking some options due to my inexperience? Also, what are your recommendations for companies making really nice and detailed 1/72 scale kits? Thanks for your help, Myles ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 13:32:11 -0500 From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" To: "'WWI Modeling Digest'" Subject: RB-3D Message-ID: <15888960D28CD211AD1900105A249078012AB9A8@ano-exs02.ano.entergy.com> Greetings, RB does indeed have a version 3, in RB-3D. You can download a free patch for RB-II directly from http://www.sierra.com in their "download" section. It's big, 11+ meg, but it greatly enhances RB-II with more accurate flight modeling and better graphics if you have a 3-D card. If you don't, it will still work. Ken Zelnick ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 13:35:02 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: new guy - kit question Message-ID: <200008181835.LAA11634@falcon.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:10:04 -0400 (EDT), Myles Miller wrote: > Hello, Welcome to the asylum! :-) > Also, what are your recommendations for companies making really nice and > detailed 1/72 scale kits? Depends on what you want to build - injected plastic, vac or resin. The best injected kits out there right now are made by Eduard - Albatros D.V/D.Va and the Fokker Dr.I/F.I. Also along the same lines are two kits - of the same type - put out by Flashback, of both the single and double seat Sopwith Strutter. For resin there are three possibilities. Hawkeye (Fokker Dr.I and SSW D.III correction/conversion sets); Rosemont (which are now more multi-media than just plane resin); and Czechmaster (their newest releases far surpass their earlier releases). For vac the two best are Rosemont and Sierra Scale. For cheap and (relatively) quick inject builds you have Toko/Roden. However, most (all?) of these have problems with struts. Another decent injected company, but a lot pricier than the others is Pegasus. No, I won't talk about that "other scale" you mentioned. Bah! :-) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 16:17:26 -0400 From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: War Story (was Re: background noise) Message-ID: >Mark writes .. > >> bringing the topic back OT and speaking of television, if they made a >> series out of Robinson's book Piece of Cake, why couldn't they have made a >> series out of the book's (in my opinion far superior) prequel, Goshawk >> Squadron. . .much more enjoyable I'd think. > >Or the even better, War Story . . . . .FEEs and BEs. .. (and a 'Bunny') > >Bob Hear hear. How bout it TC?? ;-) MVJ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 13:49:10 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Roden D.VI Looksie Message-ID: <200008181849.LAA16468@snipe.prod.itd.earthlink.net> Here's what Steve Hustad came up with IRT the Roden D.VI inaccuracies: 1) Axle wing fairing about 1mm too narrow in chord. 2) Rear fuselage is about 1 to 1.5mm too shallow in side view at the tail, tapering toward the front...(why do they ALL get this part wrong?). 3) Elevators are about 1.5mm too narrow in chord (though the horizontal tailplane itself is correct). 4) Overall fuselage length is about 1.5 to 2mm too short. 5) Lozenge decals have all wrong colors (no surprise there). While he didn't like the size of the engine, he thought it was decent enough otherwise. ;-) Here's what we need to do: convince Hawkeye to come out with an "update" set with the parts from their Dr.I for the new Dr.I/F.I's and the D.VI. He could release the following from his kit: all p/e; engine; cowl (still the best Fokker Dr.I/D.VI cowl to date); axle wing fairing; gun butt insertion (yikes!); wheels (?); props. I actually obtained this combo when I built the Tom-M D.VI, and found it invaluable. What say the list? Should we start flooding the Hawkeye site/email? Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:54:52 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Roden D.VI Looksie Message-ID: <000701c00945$cb4a2000$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> > What say the list? Should we start flooding the Hawkeye site/email? YES! Where do I have to write? D. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:00:40 EDT From: K129000@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RB1 maps, and commands needed Message-ID: In a message dated 00-08-18 07:19:11 EDT, you write: << I am also a big fan of RB1 -one of the nicest features is how you can right-click (and hold down) the mouse and get an interactive view - which always seemed to me to be much more intuitive than hitting buttons on the keyboard. I haven't played it in a while because I can't find the maps - and as soon as you become a leader everybody follows you. >> You don't really need the maps to play the game? Do you? There are commands like "A" to signal the flight to attack an enemy, otherwise they will blindly follow you. IIRC "J" will get them to join back up. "R" does something but I don't know what, anyone? IIRC "D" is drop to the deck. Remember "U" should be for unjamming guns. The maps may be availble online. If you are not the leader and hit "C" for compression just follow the leader. (I remember, the maps are layed out in grids). I though they gave you a compass heading in the briefing. If you have the mission builder you can view the maps using that. My PC is too slow to run RB 2, and not have it behave ungainly. I gather you can strafe ground targets. RB1 doesn't let you do anything except fly into them. Even the little trains that chug around. (Yes, there are trains, and windmills for some strange reason). I once put hundreds of rounds into a train and nothing happend. Chased it for miles. K-129 K-129 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:02:54 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: RE: Roden D.VI Looksie Message-ID: <200008181902.MAA29800@snipe.prod.itd.earthlink.net> On Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:59:24 -0400 (EDT), dfernet0 wrote: > > What say the list? Should we start flooding the Hawkeye site/email? > > YES! Where do I have to write? Here's the email address: ftduq@stargate.net Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 20:12:04 +0100 From: "Nigel Rayner" To: Subject: Re: Brush Painting Message-ID: <000801c00948$32a763a0$ebac883e@w1o0t3> Dale S wrote: > Hi Nigel, as a newbie and if I understant correctly, you are the resident > brush painting expert. Could you please tell me what paint you use, brushes, > etc. for such excellent results? > Thank you, > Dale S. Dale, welcome. To answer your questions: resident- yes, brush painting - yes, expert - well, that's very kind but I'd hesitate to go that far! I will do a longer treatise on brush painting for Steve Perry's WWI modelling manual (which I'll mail you off list when it's done), but here's a few quick pointers. Paints - I use Humbrol enamels, artist acrylics (for some colours that don't come in Humbrol) and artists oils for washes and things like leather cockpit coaming (black, burnt umber and burnt sienna are all you'll need for most WWI stuff). When I lived in the US I used Testors, but found these dried very quickly and were difficult to use with brushes, so I prefer Humbrol. Brushes - you'll need three types of brush. An artist's brush with a point for detail work (engines, inside cockpits etc), a chisel headed (or rake) artist's brush for applying blocks of colour on wings and fuselages, and a cheap hobby store brush for washes and dry brushing. For the brushes, you can get by with one artist's brush and one chisel headed brush (these have a flat, wide brush which looks a bit like a chisel). With these brushes, quality is key - buy the very best you can find (from an art supplies or craft shop) and look after them. For the artist's brush, get a sable brush (accept no substitutes), the best type is Kolinsky sable. Get a number 2 size - this will have a point that is fine enough for anything you'd want to do in 1/72. The tiny brushes (0, 00 etc) are too small to be of much use. For the chisel headed brush, get the best quality one you can find. I use a 1/2" one, generally these are man made rather than sable (would be very expensive). These are often called "wash" brushes. The cheap hobby store brushes are used for washes, applying Future and dry brushing. I use size 4 from any hobby shop (these cost about $1, whereas the chisel head will be about $8-$9 and the no 2 Kolinsky $10-$12). Look after all your brushes - wash them gently in soap and water after use to clean out thinners. A couple of general pointers - don't spray undercoat (from a can) when using enamels. This causes the paint to dry too fast. It's best just to paint straight on to the (washed) plastic in quick even strokes. Don't worry if coverage isn't perfect, you'll need at least two coats. For darker colours, two coats is enough (leave plenty of drying time), but for lighter more translucent colours (yellows, reds, CDL etc), you might need more than two. One trick I've just picked up is to brush on Future floor polish over the first coat. This seals it and provides a base that won't drag - this could be good for lighter colours (but I haven't used it much yet....). Another trick is to use acrylics. If painting yellow, you can use yellow acrylic on a white sprayed undercoat (acrylic doesn't dry as quick as enamel) and then paint the enamel over the acrylic. I brush on Future before applying decals and then seal the finished model using Humbrol satin gloss vanish (sprayed from a can). Now there's a lot more detail to cover, which I'll do in my treatise, but hopefully this will start you off. One of the things I am going to try is the "Mister Kit" range of WWI acrylics, so I'll report back on how I get on with them. If you have any immediate questions, feel free to contact me off list. Cheers, good luck, and remember - real men do it with brushes ;-) Nigel ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:05:14 EDT From: K129000@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Dreadnaughts Message-ID: <10.12ec833.26cee2ea@aol.com> In a message dated 00-08-18 07:19:11 EDT, you write: << The best game/simulation I've ever played is Iron Men and Wooden Ships (the board game). It also uses plotted movement but it works because you can't turn a ship in seconds and there actualy was a significant lag time between command and execution. Plays great and feels right. Mark >> This is somewhat OT, but it is still WW1. Ever hear of Dreadnaughts? It is an older WW1 game that lets you fight out the battles of Coronel, Jutland etc.... 3D polygon sim. User interphase is by typing only, which stinks. Other than that it was kind of interesting. Should run on anything down to an 8088 or 286, IIRC. Unfortunately you cannot shell target on land, this frustrated me. There are guns and torpedos, plus the dmage control isn't too bad. Even though the ships are in polygons, they don't look horrible. Takes hours to play one game through until completion. K-129 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 21:08:57 +0200 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: RE: Future and WWI vs WWII vs Jets Message-ID: > Statements similar to the one below make me somewhat angry. C'mon Brent. I have tested a lot of ways how to simulate NMF and SnJ just worked best for me. Therefore I think I may advise it to the others. All our opinions here are subjective, aren't they? I do not use buffing powder because I don't like it and because I usually make weathered models. There is no need for sheen here. If there is no need to buff the surface there is no problem with SnJ. I have already mentioned that SnJ has a drawback and for me it is sophisticated way of application (multiple layers). > If anyone is interested in a comparison of metalizer paints I have a longer > (!) article I wrote for my local club. I tested everything I could find on > 12 unsuspecting P-47's and recorded my results. Where can I read the article? Has it been published anywhere on the web? Greets, Tomasz -------------R-E-K-L-A-M-A--------------- Skad sie biora dzieci, gdy bocian odleci? Odpowiadamy tez na trudniejsze pytania... Wyszukiwarka AltaVista teraz w INTERIA.PL http://szukaj.interia.pl Zapraszamy ----------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 21:08:55 +0200 From: "Tomasz Gronczewski" To: Subject: RE: Kids and Models Message-ID: > RBII offers the most wonderful view system I ever saw on a sim! agree! > It's really a pity that Dynamix never did an addon > CD for it and I doubt if there will ever be an RBIII. Every soul should mourn that Dynamix is no longer among us. A year ago Sierra fired all Dynamix team because of the delays of Desert Fighters project, and because flightsims were no kind of business for the company >:-( Anyway Red Baron II is a must for OT gamers. But remember to buy latest Red Baron 3d. DO NOT BUY Red Baron II (now marketed here and there as one of "Sierra Classics" series) which is an older version without 3d hardware support, with some bugs, flight model inaccuracies and historical errors. The latter demands a lot of patching and upgrading to achieve RB3d playability. Also don't be scared by the level of difficulty. The game has so wide possibilities to adjust realism that my four years old son was able to shoot down three FE.2bs within a few minutes while flying Fokker E.III. Tomasz -------------R-E-K-L-A-M-A--------------- Skad sie biora dzieci, gdy bocian odleci? Odpowiadamy tez na trudniejsze pytania... Wyszukiwarka AltaVista teraz w INTERIA.PL http://szukaj.interia.pl Zapraszamy ----------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:09:15 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: new guy - kit question Message-ID: <200008181920.MAA30154@mail.rapidnet.net> Matt sez .. > multi-media than just plane resin); and Czechmaster (their newest > releases far surpass their earlier releases). 'Plane resin'. .. haha Matt made a 'little' funny Bob ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:17:39 EDT From: K129000@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Tamiya Field Kitchen Message-ID: In a message dated 00-08-18 13:13:52 EDT, you write: << and am going to put a stormtrooper with camouflage helmet and Lewis gun >> Lewis Gun? I thought those were only used by the French and British? K-129 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:20:28 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: War Story (was Re: background noise) Message-ID: <66.6a9867b.26cee67c@aol.com> In a message dated 8/18/00 1:43:45 PM EST, mvj@thetelegram.com writes: << >Or the even better, War Story . . . . .FEEs and BEs. .. (and a 'Bunny') > >Bob Hear hear. How bout it TC?? ;-) MVJ >> For starters, "Piece of Cake" was actually a best-seller in Britain (I only got it when a friend out here found it on the remainder table and got it for me as a birthday present because he was directing a movie I had written where one of the characters - a pilot, natch - is always saying "piece of cake" - and no, you can't see it, because after it was shot and edited the company went belly-up and the owner of the company has been in litigation ever since and will not turn loose of his "property" since he knows he'll make a comeback. And the sun might rise in the west tomorrow, but I wouldn't bet on it.) For further point, there is a known audience for it in England because of the subject matter - the Battle of Britain. It played here on PBS almost by chance. For further further point, the movie was responsible for pulling down all those gate guard Spitfires over there and replacing them with 1:1 plastic models - the makers of the movie knew that if the movie "failed" commercially it would be a success among airplane nuts, and they knew the market value of real Spitfires, so they knew they could get their money back somehow. "Piece of Cake" is responsible for there now being as many flying Spits in Blighty as there are. And even with all that, "Piece of Cake" only just broke even financially. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for a WW1 movie as regards knowledge of the audience of the basic material, interest in the subject matter, etc., and if you consider the expense of making up even half-assed replicas of flyable WW1 airplanes, you have just priced yourself out of the market. Unfortunately, the cry "it's a good story" is the *least* important point (and will likely get you thrown out of the room with laughter following) when you are getting the widget-makers to invest in "art." TC ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:21:34 EDT From: K129000@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Kids and Models Message-ID: <9c.69ebeb7.26cee6be@aol.com> In a message dated 00-08-18 15:13:43 EDT, you write: << Also don't be scared by the level of difficulty. The game has so wide possibilities to adjust realism that my four years old son was able to shoot down three FE.2bs within a few minutes while flying Fokker E.III. >> RB1 had histoical missions. I think one of them was a setup like this to simulate Immelmann's last fight. IIRC he was attacking F.E.2b's and shot off his own propeller. They also had Immelmann's first kill, though with only 2 B.E.2c's instead of the 8 or 10 that were actually there. K-129 K-129 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 16:25:06 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Tamiya Field Kitchen Message-ID: <00cd01c0094a$04e329c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> The germans captured quite a few Lewises and after converting them to his own caliber, these lewis guns were issued to stormtroopers until a new light machine gun made in Germany was issued. Before, all MG teams had to carry a very heavy sled used to support the Spandau MG. However, many MG teams preferred the Lewis gun rather than the german model issued, so they kept them and used it until the end of the war. HTH D. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 4:22 PM Subject: Re: Tamiya Field Kitchen > In a message dated 00-08-18 13:13:52 EDT, you write: > > << and am going to put a stormtrooper with camouflage helmet and Lewis gun >> > > Lewis Gun? I thought those were only used by the French and British? > > K-129 > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 15:25:45 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: In stock at Hannant's Message-ID: <6e.242887c.26cee7b9@aol.com> >From the new e-mail "hot sheet," something for the miniscalers: TOMM TOMM7202 Vickers FB5 Gunbus £12.50 TOMM7204 R.A.F. Be12A £12.50 TOMM7205 UFAG C-1 £12.50 BTW: you have to have Java script enabled on your computer to order from their site now. TC ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:26:01 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Brush Painting Message-ID: Nigel offered excellent advice on brush painting, and I wanted to reinforce his admonition to use sable brushes, the very best you can find. I use Windsor-Newton Series 7 that I buy at the art store. These are usually stored in a case behind the counter, well away from the hoi polloi. They are considerably more expense than other brushes, but hold their point and last much longer than lesser brushes. FWIW... but your mileage won't vary on this one. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 12:27:02 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: ww1 mailing list Subject: Congratulations Brad and Merville Message-ID: <200008181938.MAA30720@mail.rapidnet.net> Greetings all, Just wanted to congratulate Brad Gossen on his impeding nuptuals tomorrow to the very charming Merville Spalburg ... wish I could be there. And this is OT 'cuz if thier kids don't get interested in OT aviation .. I can picture Brad in his dotage .. sitting in a nice upholstered chair, smoking jacket. ... bubble pipe (he doesn't smoke) .. exclaiming in horror "BUILD THEM ??!?!?!?!??! " Again, conga rats ya crazy kids .. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 13:39:58 -0600 From: "Dale Sebring" To: Subject: Re: Brush Painting Message-ID: <001b01c0094c$1a2a05e0$59b58dd0@main> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nigel Rayner" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 1:08 PM Subject: Re: Brush Painting > Dale S wrote: > > Hi Nigel, as a newbie and if I understant correctly, you are the resident > > brush painting expert. Could you please tell me what paint you use, > brushes, > > etc. for such excellent results? > > Thank you, > > Dale S. > > Dale, welcome. To answer your questions: resident- yes, brush painting - > yes, expert - well, that's very kind but I'd hesitate to go that far! I will > do a longer treatise on brush painting for Steve Perry's WWI modelling > manual (which I'll mail you off list when it's done), but here's a few quick > pointers. > > Paints - I use Humbrol enamels, artist acrylics (for some colours that don't > come in Humbrol) and artists oils for washes and things like leather cockpit > coaming (black, burnt umber and burnt sienna are all you'll need for most > WWI stuff). When I lived in the US I used Testors, but found these dried > very quickly and were difficult to use with brushes, so I prefer Humbrol. > > Brushes - you'll need three types of brush. An artist's brush with a point > for detail work (engines, inside cockpits etc), a chisel headed (or rake) > artist's brush for applying blocks of colour on wings and fuselages, and a > cheap hobby store brush for washes and dry brushing. > > For the brushes, you can get by with one artist's brush and one chisel > headed brush (these have a flat, wide brush which looks a bit like a > chisel). With these brushes, quality is key - buy the very best you can find > (from an art supplies or craft shop) and look after them. For the artist's > brush, get a sable brush (accept no substitutes), the best type is Kolinsky > sable. Get a number 2 size - this will have a point that is fine enough for > anything you'd want to do in 1/72. The tiny brushes (0, 00 etc) are too > small to be of much use. For the chisel headed brush, get the best quality > one you can find. I use a 1/2" one, generally these are man made rather than > sable (would be very expensive). These are often called "wash" brushes. > > The cheap hobby store brushes are used for washes, applying Future and dry > brushing. I use size 4 from any hobby shop (these cost about $1, whereas the > chisel head will be about $8-$9 and the no 2 Kolinsky $10-$12). Look after > all your brushes - wash them gently in soap and water after use to clean out > thinners. > > A couple of general pointers - don't spray undercoat (from a can) when using > enamels. This causes the paint to dry too fast. It's best just to paint > straight on to the (washed) plastic in quick even strokes. Don't worry if > coverage isn't perfect, you'll need at least two coats. For darker colours, > two coats is enough (leave plenty of drying time), but for lighter more > translucent colours (yellows, reds, CDL etc), you might need more than two. > One trick I've just picked up is to brush on Future floor polish over the > first coat. This seals it and provides a base that won't drag - this could > be good for lighter colours (but I haven't used it much yet....). Another > trick is to use acrylics. If painting yellow, you can use yellow acrylic on > a white sprayed undercoat (acrylic doesn't dry as quick as enamel) and then > paint the enamel over the acrylic. > > I brush on Future before applying decals and then seal the finished model > using Humbrol satin gloss vanish (sprayed from a can). Now there's a lot > more detail to cover, which I'll do in my treatise, but hopefully this will > start you off. One of the things I am going to try is the "Mister Kit" range > of WWI acrylics, so I'll report back on how I get on with them. > > If you have any immediate questions, feel free to contact me off list. > > Cheers, good luck, and remember - real men do it with brushes ;-) > > Nigel > Thank you Nigel, you have given me plenty to work with and I will let you know how it goes. Dale S. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2560 **********************