WWI Digest 2440 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Planet SPAD XI by "Graham Hunter" 2) Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... by "Lance Krieg" 3) RE: Planet SPAD XI by "Matt Bittner" 4) Silverbird's Dr.I scans by "Matt Bittner" 5) Re: The part I hate the most... by Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com 6) Re: The part I hate the most... by "Michael Kendix" 7) Re: Cycling crisis by Otisgood@aol.com 8) Re: Nationals Bad Timing - Or, Life's little ironies by Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com 9) Re: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... by Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com 10) Re: The part I hate the most... by Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com 11) Re: The part I hate the most... by Mark Vaughan-Jackson 12) Re: Cycling crisis. by Lee Mensinger 13) Taube - Dove of War by "Jim Landon" 14) Re: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... by "David Calhoun" 15) RE: Planet SPAD XI by "Graham Hunter" 16) Re: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... by Sean Bayan Schoonmaker 17) Re: On Topic Vacation Visits by "Len Smith" 18) Eduard Tripe first look by Albatrosdv@aol.com 19) Re: Fokker cowling by Albatrosdv@aol.com 20) RE: Eduard Tripe first look by "Graham Hunter" 21) RE: Lots of questions by james.d.landon@lmco.com 22) Re: The part I hate the most... by Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:48:36 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: RE: Planet SPAD XI Message-ID: <000001bfe1d0$ba12baa0$fa0101c0@grahamh> Jon, FYI Eduard has a 1/48 scale (I assume you are talking 1/48 when you say "larger scale") Nieuport 28 that IMHO would be a much better kit than the Blue Max. From what I've seen of BM kits the wings are about the only usable part. My friend just bought the Eduard kit about a month ago, and it looks great. It was only $28 here in Canada. Regards, Graham > know anything about them. They also have a nice Nieuport 28 from Blue Max > that I will just have to order, alas it is in the larger scale. > Best regards, > Jon > Semper Fi ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:46:46 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: Both Tom and Schoon wonder what the fuss is all about: "Maybe I'm missing something here. How exactly does one do rib tapes?" I get the best result from decal rib tapes, though I have painted them, penciled them, and even, once, cut them from .005 plastic and heat-stretched them. They aren't hard; they're tedious! (Tho getting them perfectly straight can sometimes be a pain). And they can be easily lifted by later masking/handling. As far as printing them all in one shot, ala ALPS, I prefer the subtle distinction that a true three dimensional application gives. The whole process, however accomplished and however quickly, is just a little low on the satisfaction-to-effort scale. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:53:27 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: RE: Planet SPAD XI Message-ID: <200006291353.GAA01350@magpie.a001.sprintmail.com> On Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:49:37 -0400 (EDT), Graham Hunter wrote: > Jon, FYI Eduard has a 1/48 scale (I assume you are talking 1/48 when you say > "larger scale") Nieuport 28 that IMHO would be a much better kit than the > Blue Max. From what I've seen of BM kits the wings are about the only usable > part. My friend just bought the Eduard kit about a month ago, and it looks > great. It was only $28 here in Canada. That's news to us. I have never heard of an Eduard 1/48th Nieuport 28 until this time. Perhaps you mean the Glencoe, ex-Aurora one? Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:35:49 -0500 From: "Matt Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Silverbird's Dr.I scans Message-ID: <200006291435.HAA26876@raven.a001.sprintmail.com> Since I haven't seen a message from Ivan on this, he has posted side by side scans of the Eduard and Roden Dr.I/F.I's: http://www.czechia.com/silverbird/wwi/edu7015.htm The Eduard does look nice! However, one thing I noticed on the Roden: the turtldeck is a separate piece (which actually should be done for models with stringer turtledeck's like the SPAD's) which leads me to think maybe the Roden is based on the superb Hawkeye resin Dr.I. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:37:47 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: Howdy! My particular hurdle is the airbrush. I hate cleaning it. The thought of airbrushing, with the required clean up, has caused me to break out a new kit. (Or start cycling!) Then I can do simple gluing and brush painting. I have several projects on the on deck circle that just need painting. Later! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:22:17 PDT From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: <20000629152217.63616.qmail@hotmail.com> >From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com > >My particular hurdle is the airbrush. I hate cleaning it. The thought >of >airbrushing, with the required clean up, has caused me to break out >a new >kit. (Or start cycling!) Then I can do simple gluing and brush >painting. I >have several projects on the on deck circle that just need >painting. > Brent: Try spraying acrylics. Not much smell and cleans up woth isopropyl alcohol and/or Windex (or other ammonia based product). I have a Thayer & Chandler double action brush. Takes me 12 minutes to break it down and clean it. I use 3 or 4 Q-tips and 1 pipe cleaner. I would hate to have to get out the paint thinner or lacquer thinner each time to clean enamel paints though. Michael ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu Jun 29 11:26:27 2000 From: Otisgood@aol.com To: Subject: Re: Cycling crisis Message-ID: <200006291530.LAA21527@pease1.sr.unh.edu> In a message dated Thu, 29 Jun 2000 12:02:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Albatrosdv@aol.com writes: << In a message dated 6/28/00 10:35:27 PM EST, Otisgood@aol.com writes: << > Even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while (another "southern" saying). >> Does he do this while he's busy driving a swarm of bees through a blizzard with a switch?? :-) TC >> Ain't no way! OG ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:25:05 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Nationals Bad Timing - Or, Life's little ironies Message-ID: Howdy! Hah! It figures you'd show up in Dallas a little late :) I'll give your beers to Eric and Lance. You may want to stop in at Phil's Hobby Shop in Farmer's Branch. It's a really good little shop with friendly folks inside. Cavanaugh Flight Museum is at the Addison Airport, which is on the way to Phil's from Plano. They have a Camel and a Fokker D.VII. The last time I visited the Fokker was in rather poor condition. The kolor kaisers would have fits about the painted on lozenge as well. It's still a nice place to visit for their ot stuff. Good luck! Brent " Todd Henry" @pease1.sr.unh.edu on 06/28/2000 10:59:49 AM Please respond to wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Sent by: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list cc: Subject: Nationals Bad Timing - Or, Life's little ironies Well, I had hoped for a sliver of a chance that I would be able to make it to Dallas this year, but I have a younger brother getting married this year and will have to take him for a bachelor party-beach golf outing. Anyway, as one of life's little ironies has it, I will be travelling to the DFW area (Plano specifically) the following Thursday / Friday for some computer training that I need now that the salesman handling that equipment has been fired for selling direct to our customer's - but I digress. Is there anything OT that I should see in the area (it seems that I've read somewhere of some WWI replicas nearby), and since I've paid no attention to the 'Hobbyshops in DFW' threads until now, are there any great stores in the area. Since airfares drop from $1212 US to $270 if I stay over a Sat. night, I probably will wind up with a free day. Drop me a line off list if you have any suggestions. Thanks Todd Henry 1/2 Texan and I like Lone Star - the third leg of the troika, Great Scotch, Good Red Wine (Only when Great is not available or realistic), and very cheap, watered down American Beer. nb : Eduard 1/72 DVa. Now that my A/G lozenge has arrived, as well as the Ace of Spades decals (THANKS MIKE), there are no more excuses. --- --- cthenrys@earthlink.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:27:13 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: Howdy! Don't forget to give those rib tapes a good coat of Future before doing lots of handling. I really like the way Future protects those decals. I pretty much ruined a Sopwith Pup with the red, white and blue diamond decals from Blue Rider because I didn't Future the model. Oh well.... Brent "Lance Krieg" @pease1.sr.unh.edu on 06/29/2000 08:53:46 AM Please respond to wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Sent by: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list cc: Subject: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... Both Tom and Schoon wonder what the fuss is all about: "Maybe I'm missing something here. How exactly does one do rib tapes?" I get the best result from decal rib tapes, though I have painted them, penciled them, and even, once, cut them from .005 plastic and heat-stretched them. They aren't hard; they're tedious! (Tho getting them perfectly straight can sometimes be a pain). And they can be easily lifted by later masking/handling. As far as printing them all in one shot, ala ALPS, I prefer the subtle distinction that a true three dimensional application gives. The whole process, however accomplished and however quickly, is just a little low on the satisfaction-to-effort scale. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 10:56:27 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: Howdy! Nope! I rather clean enamels and laquers out of my airbrush than deal with wimpy acylic paint. It doesn't stand up to my washes and ham fistedness. On another note... Remember how concerned I was about cleaning Alclad II? Sure laquer thinner cleans the airbrush fine. This paint is tough too. Who woulda thunk plain ol' rubbing alcohol would remove it from my model? Not me! Later! Brent "Michael Kendix" @pease1.sr.unh.edu on 06/29/2000 10:26:36 AM Please respond to wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Sent by: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list cc: Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... >From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com > >My particular hurdle is the airbrush. I hate cleaning it. The thought >of >airbrushing, with the required clean up, has caused me to break out >a new >kit. (Or start cycling!) Then I can do simple gluing and brush >painting. I >have several projects on the on deck circle that just need >painting. > Brent: Try spraying acrylics. Not much smell and cleans up woth isopropyl alcohol and/or Windex (or other ammonia based product). I have a Thayer & Chandler double action brush. Takes me 12 minutes to break it down and clean it. I use 3 or 4 Q-tips and 1 pipe cleaner. I would hate to have to get out the paint thinner or lacquer thinner each time to clean enamel paints though. Michael ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:38:52 -0400 From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: Brent wrote: >My particular hurdle is the airbrush. I hate cleaning it. The thought of >airbrushing, with the required clean up, has caused me to break out a new >kit. (Or start cycling!) Then I can do simple gluing and brush painting. I >have several projects on the on deck circle that just need painting. > Amen brother! Add to this a pain-in-the-fundament air supply (air pig with a dodgy valve) and I will build a kit until ready to paint then move on. last count I had about nine kits ready to paint. . .at least one of which has been ready for a year!! Hmmm. have a wedding anniversary coming up. Do you think an air compressor is too much to ask for seven years of marital bliss ;-) MVJ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:11:24 -0500 From: Lee Mensinger To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu, lemen@x25.net Subject: Re: Cycling crisis. Message-ID: <395B752B.93EC8876@x25.net> Thats true. Bees chill out and slow way down. Far to much for flying or sometimes moving at all. In any event they have always had trouble navigating in blizzards. Don't seem to get far at all. Lee M. Otisgood@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated Thu, 29 Jun 2000 12:02:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Albatrosdv@aol.com writes: > > << In a message dated 6/28/00 10:35:27 PM EST, Otisgood@aol.com writes: > > << > > Even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while (another "southern" saying). > >> > > Does he do this while he's busy driving a swarm of bees through a blizzard > with a switch?? :-) > > TC > >> > > Ain't no way! > > OG ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:17:35 PDT From: "Jim Landon" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Taube - Dove of War Message-ID: <20000629161735.36216.qmail@hotmail.com> Hi guys and gals, I AM CURRENTLY UNSUBSCRIBED, SO PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO ME and cc the list. The good news is that Amazon.com found me a copy of "Taube, Dove of War". The bad news is they want $88.99 for it, plus another $4.29 for shipping!!! I don't think I want the book THAT bad. Does anybody think this book is that wonderful and that rare that I should snap it up? Does anybody know where I could get a copy at a more reasonable price? Does anybody want to loan me their copy? I AM CURRENTLY UNSUBSCRIBED, SO PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO ME and cc the list. Jim Landon TheGreatLandoni@hotmail.com nb: 1/16 scratch build Salmson 2A2 nu: 1/16 scratch build Salmson 2A2 sitnf: 1/16 scratch build Salmson 2A2 fdtr: 1/16 scratch build Salmson 2A2 > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: price@amazon.com [SMTP:price@amazon.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 11:35 AM > > To: James.D.Landon@lmco.com > > Cc: price@amazon.com > > Subject: Your Amazon.com order (#002-0264174-3505076): your approval > > required > > > > Hello from Amazon.com. > > > > We have new information about your order and need to hear from > > you before proceeding. > > > > We have excellent news from our out-of-print book buyers. They have > > been successful in searching for the item you ordered and > > think you will be interested in what they have found. > > > > Ordered item: John A. Devries "Taube, Dove of War" > > > > Price: $88.99 > > Shipping & handling charge: $4.29 > > Total charge for item: $93.28 > > Binding: Paperback > > > > Please follow the link below to your personalized price > > approval page on our web site. From here, you will have > > the opportunity to approve the new price or to cancel the > > item from your order. > > > > http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/price-approval/NEBN7SJ3HDHWU5/ > > > > If you are unable to connect directly to this link, you may > > copy and paste the complete URL into your web browser to > > reach this page. You may also approve or cancel this item > > by reviewing your order history from the "Your Account" > > link on our home page. > > > > We would recommend that you take a minute to check the shipping and > > credit card information for this order (to ensure that it is still > > current). If you discover that any information requires correction, > > you may make the necessary changes on the order summary screen. > > > > **PLEASE NOTE** that this out-of-print item is not on hold. > > In order to have the best chance of securing the book, > > we ask that you approve the price of the item within THREE DAYS. > > > > Amazon.com guarantees that our out-of-print matches are in > > good condition or better. "Good condition" refers to a > > previously-read book that shows some signs of wear and may have > > minor flaws, but has all pages and leaves present. > > > > All books are subject to prior sale. Since items are not on hold > > for us, we cannot absolutely guarantee that a match we've found > > will still be available when we contact our supplier to purchase the > > book. We will notify you immediately if that is the case. > > > > Please be aware that if you do not approve the item within 30 DAYS, > > it may be cancelled from your order. > > > > **PLEASE NOTE** that before we can continue processing your order we > > need you to follow the link above to approve the new price of the > > item. It is not necessary to respond to this message after you > > approve or cancel an item from our web site. > > > > Thanks for shopping at Amazon.com, and we hope to see you again! > > > > Sincerely, > > > > Customer Service Department > > Amazon.com > > http://www.amazon.com > > Earth's Biggest Selection ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 12:37:55 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: <003401bfe201$87336400$c9093ccc@oemcomputer> Hi Schoon, You must have missed my post a couple of days ago regarding the rib tapes on my Halberstadt. (see images if you have not yet!) I cut thin strips of lozenge decal to the correct width (more or less, about 1/32" I do it by eye) and apply them 4 or 5 at a time to insure they dry in the exact position without drying crooked or something. Dave Calhoun-----Original Message----- From: Sean Bayan Schoonmaker To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 9:30 PM Subject: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... >>Rib tapes are simple! I usually decal the wings first. Then I can do 4 or >>5 rib tapes at a sitting and finish up in a week or 2. In the meantime I >>can concentrate on doing the engine & interior. > >Maybe I'm missing something here. How exactly does one do rib tapes. I >would think that they're either painted or decaled. An I missing something >obvious? > >Schoon > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:51:33 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: RE: Planet SPAD XI Message-ID: <000101bfe1ea$4865ef20$fa0101c0@grahamh> -----Original Message----- Matt Bittner Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 08:58 AM On Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:49:37 -0400 (EDT), Graham Hunter wrote: > Jon, FYI Eduard has a 1/48 scale (I assume you are talking 1/48 when you say > "larger scale") Nieuport 28 that IMHO would be a much better kit than the > Blue Max. From what I've seen of BM kits the wings are about the only usable > part. My friend just bought the Eduard kit about a month ago, and it looks > great. It was only $28 here in Canada. >That's news to us. I have never heard of an Eduard 1/48th Nieuport 28 until this time. Perhaps you mean the Glencoe, ex-Aurora one?> Matt Bittner Sorry guys, in my excited haste to promote Eduard kits I got my Nieuport numbers mixed up. The price was $28 but it was for a 1/48 Nieuport 23 not a 28. Next time I'll get my facts straight first. Regards, Graham ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:50:20 -0700 From: Sean Bayan Schoonmaker To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rib Tapes, was Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: >You must have missed my post a couple of days ago regarding the rib tapes on >my Halberstadt. (see images if you have not yet!) I cut thin strips of >lozenge decal to the correct width (more or less, about 1/32" I do it by >eye) and apply them 4 or 5 at a time to insure they dry in the exact >position without drying crooked or something. The tapes, as I understand it, were usually different colors. Did they also do them in the same pattern as the wing material? Schoon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:00:58 +0100 From: "Len Smith" To: Subject: Re: On Topic Vacation Visits Message-ID: <000901bfe1eb$b6944e00$09847ed4@mesh> Marc, I would much appreciate scans of the Curtiss and Bleriot (10?) if you would be so kind. The Triad in particular is my kind of aircraft, slightly out of the ordinary to say the least. Does the Lone Star Museum have their own web site? I can't find them on any of my listings. Regards Len. lensmith@clara.net http://home.clara.net/lensmith ----- Original Message ----- From: Marc Flake To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 2:22 PM Subject: On Topic Vacation Visits > Although my vacation was more thoroughly on topic for the ship model > list, I did manage a couple of On Topic WW1 visits, one at the Lone Star > Flight Museum in Galveston, Texas, and the other at the Cavanaugh Museum > in Plano, Texas. > > In Galveston they have two pre-WW1 reproductions -- a Bleriot 10 and a > Curtis Pusher Triad. I took photos of both and can send scans once they > are deeloped. Of particular notice was the Curtis as I zoomed in on the > boom attachments to the trailing edge. The booms are made of bamboo, > with alternating bands of light tan and light brown, making for an > interesting painting challenge along the lines of laminated wooden > propellers. > > They also had an exhibit called "Who Killed The Red Baron?" It came > with a small diorama showing the flight paths of the three planes and > the locations of the machinegunners on the ground. I took a photo and > we'll have to see how it turns out. > > In Plano they have reproductions of Ernies DVII and Brown's Camel. Got > photos of these, too, if anybody's interested. > > Marc > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:56:08 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Eduard Tripe first look Message-ID: Hi All, Just got a goodies box from Eduard, with the 1/72 Dr.I and F.1 Profipack kits, and the 1/48 Roland Profipack kit. The Triplane looks excellent - to the point I may just do the Profipack kit myself for a review. The "regular" Dr.I kit (no photoetch) has the MvR Dr.1, 152/17, and a Dr.I flown by Ltn. Rudolf Klimke, Jasta 27, 1918. There is nice molded-in sidewall detail for the cockpit, and externally it looks like a shrunk-down DML Tripe without the sagging lower surface fabric. The Profipack kit does F.1, 101/102/103/17. (with 103/17 shown with an *olive* cowl and *white* rudder). There is a really nice p-e fret of cockpit detail that would make the model look about as detailed inside as the DML 1/48 kit. I would venture the guess that this makes all other Triplane kits in microscopic scale obsolete (at least on price) - not being an experten in the field tho, that's merely my guess. There will be a profipack Dr.I which is shown as doing Kempf's airplane. Price is the same as the 1/72 D.Va. The Roland is very nice, as anyone who has the earlier kit knows. However, like the Pfalz D.IIIa, doing it as a "profipack" kit is merely gilding the lily. The p-e is mostly for interior detail, nice but you could survive without it. The decals are pretty sad as far as choices go: an unidentified C.II from 1917, and C.3645/17, allegedly flown by Ltn. Hans Joachim von Hippel at the Beobachter Schule in Cologne in 1917. No "fish scales." I think I might modify it to do the cover art airplane from the Datafile. As far as I know, the Profipack Roland is out, and the Triplane is either out or will be soon. HTH Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 15:06:24 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Fokker cowling Message-ID: In a message dated 6/29/00 7:35:07 AM EST, Uggies@compuserve.com writes: << I have a question. I think I saw it here a long time ago but I have forgotten the answer. What method do you use to make the sworl design in the metal parts of the Eindekker? I tried a couple of ways but failed miserably. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And no, I will not tell you about # 100 for the answer. :-) >> Admittedly, so far as I know, this works best in 1/48: I paint the cowling with SnJ, then lay over it some SnJ polishing powder. I take an eraser stick I have put through a pencil sharpener to make a "dull" point, and after I have given a light polish to the powder to bring it up bright, I then "sworl" by spinning the eraser tip on the surface. Then set it aside and let it dry. HTH Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 14:42:08 -0500 From: "Graham Hunter" To: Subject: RE: Eduard Tripe first look Message-ID: <000201bfe202$1d59ce60$fa0101c0@grahamh> -----Original Message----- Albatrosdv@aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 02:02 PM Hi All, Just got a goodies box from Eduard, with the 1/72 Dr.I and F.1 Profipack kits, and the 1/48 Roland Profipack kit. <> HTH Tom Cleaver The Profipack Roland is very nice indeed. My friend (Tom Morgan - soon to be joining the list) has it and there is a huge difference in quality and extras when compared to the regular Eduard kits. He (Tom M.) also had another Roland kit (can't remember the make) and the Profipack was far, far superior. BTW Tom, you mentioned to me in a direct e-mail that the Sopwith Tripe is your favorite Sopwith. If you are going to do one may I suggest the Eduard Profipack example. It is the Russian one (N5486 I think) and it comes with a very excellent resin Clerget engine. Regards, Graham ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:45:58 -0600 From: james.d.landon@lmco.com To: cnlduckwor@ninenet.com Cc: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Lots of questions Message-ID: <98B98E951BA0D1119A590000F8045A4704A4D6AD@emss02m05.ems.lmco.com> Hi Charles, (and list) I just wanted to tell you I'm using another one of your ideas again: using epoxy to build up the thickness of a part. I was cleaning out old email at work again and found where you said: > "...buildup the brass cockpit foaming using 5 minute epoxy." > And I replied: "I'm curious to know how exactly you control the epoxy. My experience is that it seems to have a mind of it's own. Do you brush it on like real thick paint? Multiple applications to build up thickness?" You answered back: "I used a tooth pick and layered it on, I put down two or three layers over the flat photo etched brass." Well, a couple weeks ago I needed to add thickness and shape to my rudder control horns and elevator control horns for my 1/16 scratch built Salmson 2A2. I had made them out of thin brass sheet, because that's what they looked like on the drawing I was going by. But later I acquired better drawings (thanks to the W.W.I list) and a photo from Japan that showed the horns' true shape. Remembering what you had said, I applied 5 minute epoxy with a tooth pick. If it needed more later I just added another layer. Then if it wasn't quite right I sanded the epoxy to the desired shape. Then later I acquired a photo that showed that at the very tip of the control horn where the cable attaches it really did want to be just the original brass, so I just took a file and removed the epoxy there. No photos yet that show them. Thanks again. I wish I had time to read every word of the W.W.I list, because every time I do I learn something like this. I'm going to cc the list on this in case it might benefit somebody else. I'm unsubscribed right now, so reply directly to me. Jim -----Original Message----- From: Charles and Linda Duckworth [SMTP:cnlduckwor@ninenet.com] Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 12:31 PM To: Jim Landon Subject: Re: Lots of questions You say "build up the interior with model railroad HO wood shapes by acc'ing wood to the brass. Brass is used as a pattern." I'm curious to know more about what "HO wood shapes" are. Sounds like something I might want to look into for my Salmson ... You have the Mecca of all Model RR hobby shops, go to Caboose Hobbies and look over their scale HO (1/87) and O 1/48) gauge wood shapes I believe Kapper and Northeastern are the two sources. wood comes in 1"x2" up to 16"x16" in HO scale. I generally use 2" x 2" square stock in my 1/48 airplane models for the interior structures. Later on you say "buildup the brass cockpit foaming using 5 minute epoxy." I'm curious to know how exactly you control the epoxy. My experience is that it seems to have a mind of it's own. Do you brush it on like real thick paint? Multiple applications to build up thickness? I used a tooth pick and layered it on, I put down two or three layers over the flat photo etched brass. Then on the Avro you say "Rigging is done with .005 fishing line". I've been asking what size wire or fishing line I should use on my Salmson. If the Avro is 1:48 scale, then 48 X .005" = .24" or 1/4 inch. Is 1/4 inch the size typically used on full size WWI planes? I thought it was more like 1/8" stranded cable ... read that somewhere in my Tommy research I think. Jim, my book Resurrection of a Jenny by Chester Peek advises 5/32" to "some" 1/8" non-flexible steel cables was used. My Salmson is 1:16 scale, so I'd want to use either .008 wire to represent 1/8 inch cable, or .015 to represent 1/4 inch cable. Am I doing my math right here? I am not a math wizz either. And by any chance would you happen to know what size piano wire was typically used for X bracing inside the fuselage? Same as the exterior flying and landing wires, or different? No, and given the detail you put into a model, I'd ask the WWI list for help,(Bill Bacon may know) You did see my Salmson page didn't you? If not, go to: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/Images/Landon/index.html Yes, nice work and your Tommy is a beautiful model! Jim ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 15:01:41 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... Message-ID: Howdy! I need to get my Mr. Manners book out later, but I'll shoot from the hip here. The second anniversary gift is paper, third wood, fourth plastic, fifth is resin, sixth is the vac anniversary (kinda sucky anniversary eh?) and the seventh is, in fact, the small machinery gift anniversary so you are all set. I'd expect a compressor for sure. Next year is a shop vac! If your wife needs a copy of the list have her contact me off list. Brent (Hang in there until 15 years. That's the heavy machinery anniversary!) Mark Vaughan-Jackson @pease1.sr.unh.edu on 06/29/2000 11:10:26 AM Please respond to wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Sent by: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list cc: Subject: Re: The part I hate the most... Brent wrote: >My particular hurdle is the airbrush. I hate cleaning it. The thought of >airbrushing, with the required clean up, has caused me to break out a new >kit. (Or start cycling!) Then I can do simple gluing and brush painting. I >have several projects on the on deck circle that just need painting. > Amen brother! Add to this a pain-in-the-fundament air supply (air pig with a dodgy valve) and I will build a kit until ready to paint then move on. last count I had about nine kits ready to paint. . .at least one of which has been ready for a year!! Hmmm. have a wedding anniversary coming up. Do you think an air compressor is too much to ask for seven years of marital bliss ;-) MVJ ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2440 **********************