WWI Digest 2357 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Help by "Roger L. Belanger" 2) List of Ebay users by "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" 3) Re: List of Ebay users by Allan Wright 4) Re: List of Ebay users by Zulis@aol.com 5) Re: BM D.H.2 update by Chris Anderson 6) Re: Pegasus DH-2 by Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com 7) Re: Goering's Fokker D.VII by "Lance Krieg" 8) Re: Nie 17 Questions by "Lance Krieg" 9) Re: 1/48 Merlin Salmson by "Lance Krieg" 10) Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers by "Lance Krieg" 11) Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers by "David Calhoun" 12) Re: Scanners redux by "Candice Uhlir" 13) Re: Goering's Fokker D.VII by "David Calhoun" 14) Albatros updates 16-21 May by "Ray Boorman" 15) Re: Help Pe Struts bonding by "Ray Boorman" 16) Re: 1/48 Merlin Salmson by Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com 17) Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers by "DAVID BURKE" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:56:37 -0400 From: "Roger L. Belanger" To: "World War 1 list" Subject: Help Message-ID: <004b01bfc3fd$eeae3640$8ff44f0c@rogerbel> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BFC3DC.66FDE540 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been working on an Edouard Fokker DVIII in 1/72 I have used super = glue to hold the struts it has not been holding very well, has anyone = else had this problem and do you have any suggestions for a better hold, = I may try epoxy.......Roger B ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BFC3DC.66FDE540 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have been working on an Edouard Fokker DVIII in = 1/72 I have=20 used super glue to hold the struts it has not been holding very well, = has anyone=20 else had this problem and do you have any suggestions for a better hold, = I may=20 try epoxy.......Roger B
------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BFC3DC.66FDE540-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:07:48 -0500 From: "ZELNICK, KENNETH T" To: "'WWI Modeling Digest'" Subject: List of Ebay users Message-ID: <15888960D28CD211AD1900105A249078012AB922@ano-exs02.ano.entergy.com> Greetings, First, thanks for all the info regarding Profile publications. Second, MikeDC mentioned the possible existence of a list of Ebay "handles" used by the group. If such a list exists, I'd like to have it so I don't get in a bidding war with other list members. If not, I'd be happy to compile and distribute such a list -- just get me the info offlist and I'll let everyone know when it's ready. Thanks, Ken Zelnick ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:13:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: List of Ebay users Message-ID: <200005221513.LAA05515@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > First, thanks for all the info regarding Profile publications. > > Second, MikeDC mentioned the possible existence of a list of Ebay "handles" > used by the group. If such a list exists, I'd like to have it so I don't > get in a bidding war with other list members. If not, I'd be happy to > compile and distribute such a list -- just get me the info offlist and I'll > let everyone know when it's ready. Ken, I don;t think anyone made a list. If someone does I will keep it on the site and maintain it. -Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "Without love, life's just a long fight" - SSJ University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:21:41 EDT From: Zulis@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: List of Ebay users Message-ID: Ken enquires: << Second, MikeDC mentioned the possible existence of a list of Ebay "handles" used by the group. If such a list exists, I'd like to have it so I don't get in a bidding war with other list members. If not, I'd be happy to compile and distribute such a list -- just get me the info offlist and I'll let everyone know when it's ready. >> Hi Ken! Well, the list already exists, though it is now a year out of date. It seems impossible that it was over a year ago when I compiled this. I have posted it below, and anyone who would like to be added, dropped, or update please send me a note off-list and I will post the ammended list in about a week or so. As for bidding against each other, the consensus was that it is ok to bid against one another if you really want the item. This list really only comes into play where you are unsure whether you want to bid on an item or not, and a list member is already the high bidder - one may wish to pass. So far, this seems to have worked well - I have heard no nasty comments from list members who ended up in the same auction. Dave Z ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------------------- LISTING AS OF JAN 1999: aew = Allan Wright amadonRI = Gerry McOsker asilid = Eric Fisher Biggles = Brad Gossen braille_scale_modeler = Paul A. Schwartzkopf cam27 = Cameron Riley cduckworth = Charles Duckworth channard = Mark Shanks davekim = Dave Sterner dicianna@dnc.net = Mike Dicianna eatons@onr.com = Richard Eaton fighter2 = Shane Weier fokker = David Watts furzball = David Laws graham3 = Graham Nash hagerupk = K. Hagerup ipms4450 = Russ Niles JastaElf = Sharon Henderson jberlien = Jack Berlien lejeune = Fernando Lamas Lothar = John Glaser MACFARB = MacFarb Macsporran = Sandy Adam modelhound = Mike Franklin Moritz1 = David Layton Nieuport29 = Mike Fletcher phoward@abilene.com = P. Howard roguerpj@black-hole.com = Rob Johnson Viper32 = Rob Woodbury Vulture2 = Dave Zulis winks147 = Kevin Wenker ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:09:38 -0400 From: Chris Anderson To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: BM D.H.2 update Message-ID: Hello, Does anyone know anything about the DH-2(?)s McCudden flew? If I remember correctly, a not insignificant part of his book relates that period of his career... Chris >Well, not without a *lot* of fiddling as regarded getting the tail attached, >the model is now painted, decaled and assembled. I strongly suggest using >the new SMER kit decals - they are the right size (and the D.H.2 roundels are >the right size to use on the S.E.5a if you are doing the McCudden option - as >well as not outlined). The wings are very thin, and overall the effect is of >great delicacy, which is right for the D.H.2 and not possible to completely >achieve with the SMER kit even if you turn yourself into a candidate for a >rubber room like sp did. There's no way you can get the flying surfaces of >the SMER kit as thin as the BM kit's are to start with. The kit is >definitely a *minimum* of seven times better than the SMER kit, so the price >is reasonable for the result. Oh yeah, I did use the BM engine after a lot >of fiddling, and it looks much better in end result than the SMER engine >would have, which I had thought of doing. > >Now on to the rigging...... > >Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:18:24 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 Message-ID: Greetings! Jon wrote: >Hello Brent, I am sitting here looking at my copy of the Pegasus DH-2 and >wonder how to go about building those tail booms, any hints or tips you care >to share with me on this kit. In fact if anyone has any tips on this kit I >will be happy to read them. Now Brent how about the bracing wires, what will >you use, how will you attach them? I haven't started this portion of the kit yet, but here is my plan. Wrap the full size plan with plastic wrap so super glue won't stick to it. Then I am just going to glue the rods to the struts like an old Sterling balsa wood model. As for the boom rigging I plan to use fuse wire. I'll put a small dab of super glue on the boom and some excellerator on the tip of the wire so it will stick almost instantly. I figure the original application of super glue will be strengthened by the glue used for the rigging. I am hoping for very small fillets. Oh yeah, I'll also put a small dab where the two bracing wires cross. That will add just a little bit more rigidity. In regards to Tom's post about the fragility of the 1/48th version I intend to mount my 1/72 DH-2 on a base with a glass dome over it. I don't want the stupid cleaning woman dusting this one! Later! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:37:19 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Goering's Fokker D.VII Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_08501524.49285E01 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A couple of points... IIRC, most manufacturers had some variation of the lift point markings on = the wings; the NASM D.VII, which is OAW (?) has them ,too. FWIW, the JG 2 decals by Americal/Gryphon have detailed intructions (and = the relevent decals) for the different manufacturers' component markings - = another good reason to buy these excellent sheets. The "nose cones" on late model Fokkers are quick-release hubs to remove = the propeller with less hassle than the earlier eight bolts. Lance --=_08501524.49285E01 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
A couple of points...
 
IIRC, most manufacturers had some variation of the lift point = markings on=20 the wings; the NASM D.VII, which is OAW (?) has them ,too.
 
FWIW, the JG 2 decals by Americal/Gryphon have detailed intructions = (and=20 the relevent decals) for the different manufacturers' component markings = -=20 another good reason to buy these excellent sheets.
 
The "nose cones" on late model Fokkers are quick-release hubs to = remove the=20 propeller with less hassle than the earlier eight bolts.
 
Lance
--=_08501524.49285E01-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:44:06 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Nie 17 Questions Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_F5ADE8D8.0F6E1847 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Len asks: "The stitching on the fuselage - any guesses as to color ?"=20 I wrestled with this ,too, and found nothing more definite than "leather" = reinforcing, so I painted it red-brown.=20 "...the 17's w/the cowl mounted gun how are the wires routed on the inside = front cabane struts ? " It looked to me as if they cross above the gun, and enter the cowling some = distance from the attachment point at the upper longeron/strut convergence.= That is, if I understood the question and recall correctly... Lance --=_F5ADE8D8.0F6E1847 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Len asks:
"The stitching on the fuselage - any guesses as to color ?"
 
I wrestled with this ,too, and found nothing more definite = than=20 "leather" reinforcing, so I painted it red-brown.

"...the 17's = w/the=20 cowl mounted gun how are the wires routed on the inside front cabane = struts ?=20 "
 
It looked to me as if they cross above the gun, and enter the cowling = some=20 distance from the attachment point at the upper longeron/strut=20 convergence.  That is, if I understood the question and recall=20 correctly...
 
Lance
--=_F5ADE8D8.0F6E1847-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:46:27 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: 1/48 Merlin Salmson Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_69317447.2B4A3C63 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Cyg, any price is too much. If you want one, you can have mine; send your = snail mail address. I'm trying to supply everyone in New Hampshire with a free model. I'm = glad it's a small state. Lance >>> janah@worldnet.att.net 05/21/00 05:52PM >>> Any opinions on the 1/48 Merlin Salmson? What is a fair asking price? Thanks, Cyg --=_69317447.2B4A3C63 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Cyg, any price is too much.  If you want one, you = can=20 have mine; send your snail mail address.
 
I'm trying to supply everyone in New Hampshire with a = free=20 model.   I'm glad it's a small state.
 
Lance

>>> janah@worldnet.att.net= =20 05/21/00 05:52PM >>>
Any opinions on the 1/48 Merlin Salmson?&n= bsp;=20 What is a fair asking=20 price?

Thanks,
Cyg


--=_69317447.2B4A3C63-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:05:25 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been following this thread and thought I would pass on some ideas = that have worked for me... Anyone who has seen the Aeroclub jig for the FE2 will instantly recognize = that it is a perfect solution that assures the boom assemblies are = absolutely identical. It can be copied easily for other boomers. Using the side view from the plans, copy the top and bottom booms onto a = sheet of .020 or .030 plastic. Etch a groove along these lines to hold the booms. Etch vertical lines between the booms where the struts are located. Where the stuts join the booms, excavate a small crater to prevent the = adhesive of choice from sticking the boom assemby to the jig. By laying the components in their respective grooves, the joints can be = glued or soldered. Because strength is so important, I use epoxy; solder = is even better. Once one side is done, lift it out of the jig and replace with the other = side. You'll add a lot of strength to the assembly if you use monofilament to = rig, instead of wire or sprue. Hope that helps... lance=20 --=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have been following this thread and thought I would pass on some = ideas=20 that have worked for me...
 
Anyone who has seen the Aeroclub jig for the FE2 will instantly = recognize=20 that it is a perfect solution that assures the boom assemblies are = absolutely=20 identical.
It can be copied easily for other boomers.
 
Using the side view from the plans, copy the top and bottom booms = onto a=20 sheet of .020 or .030 plastic.
Etch a groove along these lines to hold the booms.
Etch vertical lines between the booms where the struts are located.
Where the stuts join the booms, excavate a small crater to preven= t the=20 adhesive of choice from sticking the boom assemby to the jig.
By laying the components in their respective grooves, the joints = can=20 be glued or soldered.  Because strength is so important, I use = epoxy;=20 solder is even better.
Once one side is done, lift it out of the jig and replace with the = other=20 side.
 
You'll add a lot of strength to the assembly if you use = monofilament=20 to rig, instead of wire or sprue.
 
Hope that helps...
 
lance 
 
--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:39:20 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers Message-ID: <003801bfc425$6e371180$8a2e3ccc@oemcomputer> Has anyone tried soldering the booms on the BM DH-2 or Aeroclub FE2b? If I recall, they both use stainless steel tubes for the booms & white metal (pewter or something) for the struts. I don't think it would be possible to get the solder to stick to the ss without melting the pewter. Any experiences, for or against? Dave Calhoun -----Original Message----- From: Lance Krieg To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:09 AM Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers >This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to >consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to >properly handle MIME multipart messages. > >--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > >I have been following this thread and thought I would pass on some ideas = >that have worked for me... > >Anyone who has seen the Aeroclub jig for the FE2 will instantly recognize = >that it is a perfect solution that assures the boom assemblies are = >absolutely identical. >It can be copied easily for other boomers. > >Using the side view from the plans, copy the top and bottom booms onto a = >sheet of .020 or .030 plastic. >Etch a groove along these lines to hold the booms. >Etch vertical lines between the booms where the struts are located. >Where the stuts join the booms, excavate a small crater to prevent the = >adhesive of choice from sticking the boom assemby to the jig. >By laying the components in their respective grooves, the joints can be = >glued or soldered. Because strength is so important, I use epoxy; solder = >is even better. >Once one side is done, lift it out of the jig and replace with the other = >side. > >You'll add a lot of strength to the assembly if you use monofilament to = >rig, instead of wire or sprue. > >Hope that helps... > >lance=20 > >--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA >Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > >> > >2px"> >
I have been following this thread and thought I would pass on some = >ideas=20 >that have worked for me...
>
 
>
Anyone who has seen the Aeroclub jig for the FE2 will instantly = >recognize=20 >that it is a perfect solution that assures the boom assemblies are = >absolutely=20 >identical.
>
It can be copied easily for other boomers.
>
 
>
Using the side view from the plans, copy the top and bottom booms = >onto a=20 >sheet of .020 or .030 plastic.
>
Etch a groove along these lines to hold the booms.
>
Etch vertical lines between the booms where the struts are located.IV> >
Where the stuts join the booms, excavate a small crater to preven= >t the=20 >adhesive of choice from sticking the boom assemby to the jig.
>
By laying the components in their respective grooves, the joints = >can=20 >be glued or soldered.  Because strength is so important, I use = >epoxy;=20 >solder is even better.
>
Once one side is done, lift it out of the jig and replace with the = >other=20 >side.
>
 
>
You'll add a lot of strength to the assembly if you use = >monofilament=20 >to rig, instead of wire or sprue.
>
 
>
Hope that helps...
>
 
>
lance 
>
 
> >--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA-- > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 16:40:19 GMT From: "Candice Uhlir" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Scanners redux Message-ID: <20000522164019.16811.qmail@hotmail.com> tom, What's up with the scanner??? Candice >From: Albatrosdv@aol.com >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Scanners redux >Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 14:09:59 -0400 (EDT) > >Cancel my good words about that #@$%!! "Scan Ace" - the company has a >disconnected telephone number for tech support. > >I am getting my money back and never again intend to darken the door of >Frye's electronics again for any reason whatsoever. They can take their >cheap chinese crap and take a long walk off a short pier. (ever notice >their >telephones don't work for more than 120 days??) > >Tom Cleaver ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:49:58 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: Goering's Fokker D.VII Message-ID: <003f01bfc426$ea999bc0$8a2e3ccc@oemcomputer> There are a couple of good photos of Goring's white D.VII in the Windsock special Von Richthofen's Flying Circus. It is interesting to note that he cut down the forward edge of the cockpit on the left side of the fuselage, and had a grab handle to help pull himself up after suffering a hip injury. It also has a flare gun protruding from the right hand side of the cockpit pointing towards the rear, and 3 flares mounted ahead of this on the right hand fuselage side. He appears to have white painted plates attached behind the ammo feed belts. Very interesting. Dave Calhoun -----Original Message----- From: Witold Kozakiewicz To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 1:01 AM Subject: Re: Goering's Fokker D.VII > > >On Sun, 21 May 2000, Dale Beamish wrote: > >> Witold >> >> They are indeed lift markings applied at the factory. They say "hier >> anheben" with an arrow in the center pointing to the wing tips. This is one >> of the reasons I believe Gorings "white" finish was done at the factory. >> This and the exact stenciling for his weight tables. > >Thanks Dale, If this one was painted white in the factory what about >serial number? On my picture I can't see it, maybe hidden behind the >lower wing. > >> My choice, if these are the only decals you are planning to use is .... >> Loerzer. > >Yes, I also think that black/white striped would be most interesting but >I'm not sure if he used late fokker built plane. > >Thanks >score : Loerzer 1, rest 0 >Witold Kozakiewicz > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 09:59:12 -0700 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: Albatros updates 16-21 May Message-ID: <000f01bfc40f$0e727980$9b1335d1@bconnected.net> Below are the Albatros updates for the past week. Even if you aren't building some of these links my be interesting. Thanks to everyone who is contributing to this. I know I have learned a lot. Now where did I put that still sealed DVa box. Ray 21 May 00 : Updated 1/72 Decal Sheets courtesy of Matt Bittner. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/parts172_decal.html 21 May 00 : Added Correcting the Eduard Albatros Landing Gear Courtesy Steve Perry. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kitreview_sb_sp002.html 21 May 00 : Added Added lots of profiles from Bob Pearson. (Thanks Bob) http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/reference.html 20 May 00 : Added Eduard 1/48 Albatros DV http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kitreview_eddv_fc.html 19 May 00 : Added Added Bob Sasaks choice http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/index.html#build 19 May 00 : Added Split after market into correct scales two lists.. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/after72.html http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/after48.html 18 May 00 : Added Eduard 1/48 Albatros DIII OAW. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kitreview_eddiii_oaw.html 17 May 00 : Added Eduard 1/48 Albatros DR1 Profipack. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kitreview_edddr1.html 17 May 00 - Added Diego Fernetti's Build Page. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/build_dv_df.html 16 May 00 : Added Simulating Woodgrain. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kittech_woodgrain.html 16 May 00 : Added German Green and Mauve. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kittech_colour.html 16 May 00 : Added Scratchbuilding an Albatros Radiator Header in 1/48 courtesy of Steve Perry. http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kitreview_sb_sp001.html 16 May 00 : Added Lozenge http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kittech_lozenge.html 15 May 00 : Added Copper State Models W4 Page http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/OTprojects/kitreview_csmw4.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:30:47 -0700 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: Re: Help Pe Struts bonding Message-ID: <001101bfc413$777d8240$9b1335d1@bconnected.net> Roger, I have had problems on occasion with Super glue not holding very well. A list member clued me in to buying small bottles and keeping them refrigerated when not in use. Super glue goes off with time otherwise. As to the DVIII, I used a jig and small amounts of plastic safe kicker to get the joints solid immediately. The other thing is I used gap filling Cyano for struts and kick it when they're set in place. The DVIII tends to be fragile (especially on meeting a large cat), since the PE struts flex and bend by small amounts when you handle the model this tends to break weak glue joints. The struts and small amounts of rigging were the last things I did and I kept the model in two jigs the whole time. Then it went on the shelf. So I didn't handle it much. The Sopwith Baby has the same problem by the way. The one benefit to the glue not holding is if the join was stronger the strut would bend and show the bend. imho. Ray (news story on TV today up here -Victoria Day btw. This coming thursday an unknown Canadian soldier will be exhumed from France and flown back to Canada to create Canada's Unknown Soldier tomb/monument. - 82 years eh, who said us Canadians aren't fast!) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:38:33 -0500 From: Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: 1/48 Merlin Salmson Message-ID: How does the Salmson from VAMPS compare with the offering from Czech Master (both are 1/48 btw). The Czech Master looks very nice, but has been spendy. Later! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 12:33:40 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers Message-ID: <005e01bfc414$3ae15860$8a80aec7@dora9sprynet.com> I'm paying attention to this one: The FE2b is one of my future projects! DB P.S. Does anyone know of a good AeroClub dealer in the U.S.? -----Original Message----- From: David Calhoun To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 11:43 AM Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers >Has anyone tried soldering the booms on the BM DH-2 or Aeroclub FE2b? If I >recall, they both use stainless steel tubes for the booms & white metal >(pewter or something) for the struts. I don't think it would be possible to >get the solder to stick to the ss without melting the pewter. Any >experiences, for or against? >Dave Calhoun >-----Original Message----- >From: Lance Krieg >To: Multiple recipients of list >Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:09 AM >Subject: Re: Pegasus DH-2 and other boomers > > >>This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to >>consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to >>properly handle MIME multipart messages. >> >>--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA >>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >> >>I have been following this thread and thought I would pass on some ideas = >>that have worked for me... >> >>Anyone who has seen the Aeroclub jig for the FE2 will instantly recognize = >>that it is a perfect solution that assures the boom assemblies are = >>absolutely identical. >>It can be copied easily for other boomers. >> >>Using the side view from the plans, copy the top and bottom booms onto a = >>sheet of .020 or .030 plastic. >>Etch a groove along these lines to hold the booms. >>Etch vertical lines between the booms where the struts are located. >>Where the stuts join the booms, excavate a small crater to prevent the = >>adhesive of choice from sticking the boom assemby to the jig. >>By laying the components in their respective grooves, the joints can be = >>glued or soldered. Because strength is so important, I use epoxy; solder = >>is even better. >>Once one side is done, lift it out of the jig and replace with the other = >>side. >> >>You'll add a lot of strength to the assembly if you use monofilament to = >>rig, instead of wire or sprue. >> >>Hope that helps... >> >>lance=20 >> >>--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA >>Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 >>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >> >> >> >>http-equiv=3DContent-Type= >>> >> >>>2px"> >>
I have been following this thread and thought I would pass on some = >>ideas=20 >>that have worked for me...
>>
 
>>
Anyone who has seen the Aeroclub jig for the FE2 will instantly = >>recognize=20 >>that it is a perfect solution that assures the boom assemblies are = >>absolutely=20 >>identical.
>>
It can be copied easily for other boomers.
>>
 
>>
Using the side view from the plans, copy the top and bottom booms = >>onto a=20 >>sheet of .020 or .030 plastic.
>>
Etch a groove along these lines to hold the booms.
>>
Etch vertical lines between the booms where the struts are >located.>IV> >>
Where the stuts join the booms, excavate a small crater >to preven= >>t the=20 >>adhesive of choice from sticking the boom assemby to the jig.
>>
By laying the components in their respective grooves, the joints = >>can=20 >>be glued or soldered.  Because strength is so important, I use = >>epoxy;=20 >>solder is even better.
>>
Once one side is done, lift it out of the jig and replace with the = >>other=20 >>side.
>>
 
>>
You'll add a lot of strength to the assembly if you use = >>monofilament=20 >>to rig, instead of wire or sprue.
>>
 
>>
Hope that helps...
>>
 
>>
lance 
>>
 
>> >>--=_E0B8FDC2.E283F5AA-- >> > > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2357 **********************