WWI Digest 2236 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers by smperry@mindspring.com 2) Re: Somewhat Urgent Camel Info requested by smperry@mindspring.com 3) Re: Somewhat Urgent Camel Info requested by "Bob Pearson" 4) Re: Wood Grain Decals by bucky@ptdprolog.net 5) Micro Ace? by "Dale Beamish" 6) Re: SPAD XIII Question by Goebel Family 7) Re: SPAD XIII Question by smperry@mindspring.com 8) OTF update by bucky@ptdprolog.net 9) Loz.@m45 degree by Robert Horton 10) Re: ICM Pfalz E.IV by "Matthew Bittner" 11) Re: Aeromaster lozenge decals by Russell W Niles 12) Re: One at a time/ was: What's (OT) on the work bench? by Russell W Niles 13) Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers by "Matthew Bittner" 14) Re: Mr Surfacer by Shane & Lorna Jenkins 15) Re: Somewhat Urgent Camel Info requested by KarrArt@aol.com 16) Re: SPAD XIII Question by KarrArt@aol.com 17) Re: OTF update by "Bill Bacon" 18) Re: Mr Surfacer by "Michael Kendix" 19) Re: Mr Surfacer by "Michael Kendix" 20) Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem by "Limon3" 21) Re: April Internet Modeler by Shane & Lorna Jenkins 22) Re: Wood Grain Decals by KarrArt@aol.com 23) Re: Aeromaster lozenge decals by Otisgood@aol.com 24) Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem by "Leonard Endy" 25) Max Holtzem Pt 2 by "Leonard Endy" 26) Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem by Otisgood@aol.com 27) Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem by "Bob Pearson" 28) Re: Wood Grain Decals by "DAVID BURKE" 29) Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers by "Peter Leonard" 30) Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem by "Leonard Endy" 31) Re: Wood Grain Decals by Pedro e Francisca 32) Re: SPAD XIII Question by "David Calhoun" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 19:30:15 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers Message-ID: <000901bf9c3a$9e5d15c0$3a0b56d1@default> > Brent: I would suggest yet a different way. To rig an X between struts on a DH-2 tailboom I do the following: Place a tiny drop of CA Kicker on the a joint between the lower boom and a vertical strut. With a piece of rigging material, dip the very end in a puddle of CA and poke it right in the joint where you put the kicker. It will set rapidly, now pull the rigging taught and trim to length and ca the upper bit in place. A dab of white glue or better yet acrylic gel and you have turnbuckles. I do this with HSP, but there is no reason it won't work with invisible thread, wire or even painted sewing thread. YMMV etc sp ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 19:31:32 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Somewhat Urgent Camel Info requested Message-ID: <001101bf9c3a$cc5c4ae0$3a0b56d1@default> > OH SH*T!!!! Is that the sound of a Bentley coughing to life? sp ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 16:39:53 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Somewhat Urgent Camel Info requested Message-ID: <200004020041.QAA11457@mail.rapidnet.net> Dave, The Bentley cowl is slight larger in diameter and is faired into the Camel's 'hump' in a continuous slope from the front like on the 2F1. I'll email you a profile of Brown's Camel as agreed upon by Les Rogers and myself for the FMP British markings. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:48:24 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Wood Grain Decals Message-ID: <38E698D8.3B8FAC12@ptdprolog.net> What I've tried doing for interior bracings, etc is to use the wood "wrappers" from some cigars. Real wood and very thin.....haven't tried to do a fuselage with it, however. Mike Muth Shane Weier wrote: > DB > > > Actually, on my 1/28 Camel, I just went ahead and used the real thing. > > Yes, I read that. I have a part finished LVG fuselage done the same way - > all over. But 1/48 is pretty much the limit, because even there one needs to > find extremely fine grained wood to be convincing *in scale* > > Shane > > ************************************************************** > The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential > and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution > or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are > requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems > to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. > E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. > ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 17:56:29 -0700 From: "Dale Beamish" To: "List" Subject: Micro Ace? Message-ID: <001f01bf9c3e$63785880$03000004@darcy> Anyone know if the Micro Ace 144 scale kit is available anywhere? Any other decent midget scale tripes? Dale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 16:56:51 -0800 From: Goebel Family To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: SPAD XIII Question Message-ID: <38E69AD3.973B8DB9@gte.net> Perhaps this has been covered before and if so, excuse me. Has anyone attempted to convert the 1/28 SPAD wings to the later rounded tip? If so, how did you go about it. Has there been an article on this conversion such as the one FSM did on the Fok. D.VII. Thanks a lot. Craig Goebel ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:09:36 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: SPAD XIII Question Message-ID: <002f01bf9c40$1f695520$3a0b56d1@default> Craig: The Revell 1:28 Spad comes with the Early Rounded tips. To convert to the Later Squared tips, Simply sand them off square. The Revell 1:28 Spad is a bit overscale. After you sand the tips, knock maybe a mm off the LE and you will have a fine 1:28 scale Spad wing. The ply pocket tips to convert rounded tips to squared off ones were sewn on and used almost exclusively by the French. I believe they used them on Spad XIIs also. Most Spads in American service were built with the Later Squarred off tip. HTH sp ----- Original Message ----- From: "Goebel Family" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 8:01 PM Subject: Re: SPAD XIII Question > Perhaps this has been covered before and if so, excuse me. > Has anyone attempted to convert the 1/28 SPAD wings to the > later rounded tip? If so, how did you go about it. Has there been > an article on this conversion such as the one FSM did > on the Fok. D.VII. Thanks a lot. > > Craig Goebel ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 20:14:34 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: OTF update Message-ID: <38E69EFA.BC2F8A5F@ptdprolog.net> Bill Bacon and all I'll be there on Thursday....mid afternoon or so. Hey, Bill Ciccora, are you going to be there? Mike Muth nb: Nieuport 24bis nu: Maybe the old Albatros C-III nl: NCAA semis....Go Heels ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:39:22 -0600 From: Robert Horton To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Loz.@m45 degree Message-ID: <38E6A4CA.FDB66674@netexpress.net> The Group: I have to rephrase my statement about the 45 degree pattern of Lozenge fabric application...Tom mentioned that it was so applied tot he Halberstadt D II...I totally agree...what I should have said is that Microscale and Superscale's instruction sheets lead one to believe that it was applied at the same angle all the way across...that is what I took issue with...it started with an inverted V at the center section panel and worked it's way out from the center...I knew what I meant but didn't convey it well. I was fortunate enough to get a look at the Halberstadt wings at the US Air Force Museum before they were sent to Europe for the restoration job ant the V shaped pattern was very apparent in the old fabric... Also, Tom, did you get the decals OK. I have no good explanation for the difference in the pattern of the checkerboard band on the wings...perhaps you or others have researched that better than I did a couple of years ago...cheers to all...Horton ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:48:37 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: ICM Pfalz E.IV Message-ID: <200004020151.RAA01073@raven.a001.sprintmail.com> On Sat, 1 Apr 2000 18:06:53 -0500 (EST), Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com wrote: > Are you tempted to build Grunzweig's E.IV from the back of the Datafile? I > wouldn't mind back dating another kit to be the E.I demo with black > undersurfaces and white iron crosses. The lozenge covered E.VI would be an > interesting model as well. This is one thing that really struck me. Although there are no plans in the Datafile, I bet "converting" the ICM Pfalz E.IV into an E.VI wouldn't be difficult at all! Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 07:14:27 -0800 From: Russell W Niles To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Aeromaster lozenge decals Message-ID: <20000401.174831.-168161.5.r_niles1@juno.com> Otis If it isnt to late, what's the chance of being included in this group? Russ Niles IPMS 4450 Too close for missiles....switching to guns. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:29:52 -0800 From: Russell W Niles To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: One at a time/ was: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: <20000401.174831.-168161.0.r_niles1@juno.com> > Any other one-at-a-timers? > Michael I too have a mortal addiction to having more than one thing going at a time. The closest I have come to breaking this rule is when I am waiting for something to dry, and take a kit out of the closet to fondle the parts. OOPS, I lied. I just remembered the Eduard Albatross CIII, that is about 50% done in there. I remember when I started working on it and someone mentioned that it had taken them two years to complete. I can certainly see why, I will probably work that long on this one too. As to what is on the bench right now, an ot 1/32 Hasegawa P12 is about 90% done. Just the last of the rigging, and decals. At least it has two wings. Next up.......Hmmm, I don't really know at this time. Russ Russ Niles IPMS 4450 Too close for missiles....switching to guns. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:49:24 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers Message-ID: <200004020152.RAA01446@raven.a001.sprintmail.com> On Sat, 1 Apr 2000 18:07:18 -0500 (EST), Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com wrote: > I must be getting anal. I'm packing more time into smaller and smaller > models. Not anal. Just wising up! :-) Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 11:49:58 +1000 From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins To: WW1 posts Subject: Re: Mr Surfacer Message-ID: <38E6A746.92A917CF@tac.com.au> This stuff also comes in handy for simulating ribs. Just mask off and spray, remove masks shortly after as when it's thinned for spraying it dries *real* quick and if you leave the masks on for too long you'll get a hard edge. Voila! Ribs! Once painted, they look great Lorna btw thanks for all the kind comments re April's IM cover. Next model in IM will be OT I promise ;-)) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 21:52:36 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Somewhat Urgent Camel Info requested Message-ID: <5a.34583aa.26180ff4@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/00 4:34:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, smperry@mindspring.com writes: << > OH SH*T!!!! Is that the sound of a Bentley coughing to life? sp >> sounds about right! RK ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 21:52:35 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: SPAD XIII Question Message-ID: <4.23417aa.26180ff3@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/00 5:09:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, smperry@mindspring.com writes: << The ply pocket tips to convert rounded tips to squared off ones were sewn on and used almost exclusively by the French. I believe they used them on Spad XIIs also. >> Brook's Spad XIII- the NASM one- had the ply "pockets", as did Luke's (or at least the one usually ascribed to him).A few years ago, Windsock had a short article about doing this conversion- years after I had done mine. I simply made the "ply" extensions from plastic sheet...may about.020 or so, CA'ed then to the tips, and faired the mess in with putty. RK ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:59:20 -0600 From: "Bill Bacon" To: Subject: Re: OTF update Message-ID: <002d01bf9c4f$725e5f00$413c32cf@tcac.net> Great news. Call my romm when you arrive and that goes for all listt members. Cheers, Nill B. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2000 7:22 PM Subject: OTF update > Bill Bacon and all > I'll be there on Thursday....mid afternoon or so. Hey, Bill > Ciccora, are you going to be there? > Mike Muth > nb: Nieuport 24bis > nu: Maybe the old Albatros C-III > nl: NCAA semis....Go Heels > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:05:18 PST From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Mr Surfacer Message-ID: <20000402030518.96004.qmail@hotmail.com> Tom: Thanks. I wondered about thinning. Since I don't have any ventilation set up (I use water-based acrylics for airbrushing), I'll either spray outside or just stick to the brush. Michael >From: Albatrosdv@aol.com >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Mr Surfacer >Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 19:31:55 -0500 (EST) > >In a message dated 4/1/100 6:29:36 PM EST, mkendix@hotmail.com writes: > ><< have some questions about Gunze Sangyo's "Mr. Surfacer". > > 1. What is the difference between 500 and 1000? When would you want to >use > each of these? > >500 is thicker than 1000, and better for filling seams and other such >things. > I hand paint it along a seam, wait for it to dry, sand lightly with fine >grit wet'r'dry, and the seam disappears. 1000 is better for going over a >whole large surface after you sanded it down, for getting it smooth again. > > 2. How long does it take to dry? How long before I can spray a coat of > regular G-S paint over it? > >Here in Southern California it dries to sand within an hour, and you can >spray Gunze-Sanyo over it as soon as you have sanded the area smooth. > > 3. Can you spray it through an airbrush or brush it on? Is there an >example > of when you'd do one rather than the other? > >> > >I gave examples of when to use 500 and 1000 above. If you spray through an >airbrush, thin it with lacquer thinner. If you are doing a surface >smoothing >with 1000, thin about 50-50. > >I think this stuff is really useful. I got my first bottle of 500 about 10 >months ago, use it a lot, and still have well over half still in the >bottle. > >HTH > >Tom Cleaver ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 19:13:01 PST From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Mr Surfacer Message-ID: <20000402031301.78631.qmail@hotmail.com> Lorna: Thanks. This is what I had planned to use it for after seeing Candice's 504k. >From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Mr Surfacer >Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:59:37 -0500 (EST) > >This stuff also comes in handy for simulating ribs. Just mask off and >spray, remove masks shortly after as when it's thinned for spraying it >dries *real* quick and if you leave the masks on for too long you'll get >a hard edge. Voila! Ribs! Once painted, they look great > >Lorna > >btw thanks for all the kind comments re April's IM cover. Next model in >IM will be OT I promise ;-)) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:22:18 -0700 From: "Limon3" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Subject: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem Message-ID: <000101bf9d1b$d2285680$e3501c3f@f4w2s5> Does anyone know if the struts on this plane were natural wood or doped silver? I'd also like to know if the lettering for the weights tables were the 3 line or two line version. TIA, Gabe. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 13:32:39 +1000 From: Shane & Lorna Jenkins To: WW1 posts Subject: Re: April Internet Modeler Message-ID: <38E6BF57.8A1F1A97@tac.com.au> Shane Weier wrote the following RK says, > When I clicked on the new issue and the cover started to > load, the first box > to pop in was the one in the center- the one with the "eyes" > and "nose"-like object.........it was CREEPY! Hell, that's nuthin' When it first opened *I* thought she'd modelled Shane the Younger. Not *that's* creepy. Shane (the older, and now endangered ;-) Hi Shane, Yup, that's right. Right after you've paid the bill at the Hungarian Restaraunt (required OT comment) that we're going to this Wednesday, there will be a ritual beheading for that comment ;->. Shane the Younger - who's rather chuffed at the Mistress getting a cover ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 22:54:36 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Wood Grain Decals Message-ID: In a message dated 4/1/00 12:25:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, sdw@qld.mim.com.au writes: << Yes, I read that. I have a part finished LVG fuselage done the same way - all over. But 1/48 is pretty much the limit, because even there one needs to find extremely fine grained wood to be convincing *in scale* Shane >> I have used 1/64 birch ply, but I spend a little time at the wood rack in the shop, looking at all the stock till find the piece with the tighest , smallest grain. Plus, I can peel off one layer and get wood that starts approach scale thickness for some parts. BTW...that idea about maybe using an ALPS to make decals from real woodgrain may be a thing I'll have to try. RK ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 22:56:43 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Aeromaster lozenge decals Message-ID: <5a.345dd23.26181efb@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/00 5:54:20 PM Pacific Standard Time, r_niles1@juno.com writes: > If it isnt to late, what's the chance of being included in this group? > > Russ Niles IPMS 4450 > Too close for missiles....switching to guns. > I sent Gaston 3 names last week. I don't want to overwhelm him. He said one reason he hasn't already released the decals is that he had a focus group down in FLA look at them and none of them could agree. I just happened to write him to ask him about producing them again, and that's when he told me he was already working on it and asked for help from our group. Thanks anyway. I'll keep everyone posted on developments. Otis ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 23:10:05 -0500 From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem Message-ID: On Sat, 1 Apr 2000 22:22:42 -0500 (EST), you wrote: >Does anyone know if the struts on this plane were natural wood or doped >silver? I'd also like to know if the lettering for the weights tables were >the 3 line or two line version. TIA, Gabe. > The latest consenus on the struts is silver. The two pics of Von Holtzem's D.IIIa in the datafile are of the right hand side - the weight tables are on the left..... Len ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 23:14:05 -0500 From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Max Holtzem Pt 2 Message-ID: Two things in the datafile pics you might be interested in are the flare holder on the right hand side just below the cockpit and a rear-view mirror stuck in the center of the upper wing trailing edge. Two things I missed when I did this plane...and I have the datafile. Len ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 23:20:31 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem Message-ID: <2f.35e35e6.2618248f@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/00 7:23:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, Limon3@email.msn.com writes: > Does anyone know if the struts on this plane were natural wood or doped > silver? I'd also like to know if the lettering for the weights tables were > the 3 line or two line version. TIA, Gabe. > Struts are definitely silbergrau. I have a Datafile that shows Holtzem's plane. Unfortunately, It's taken from the right side so the weights table doesn't show. Aeromaster shows it as three line, but I think Eduard shows it as two. According to the Datafile "The attentive reader will note that the weight tables stencilled on the DIIIa fuselage were not always identical. The exact reason for this is unclear." Without hard evidence, the choice is yours. I'd go with what ever seems to fit the best. Otis ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 20:34:52 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem Message-ID: <200004020437.UAA17330@mail.rapidnet.net> Also note the non-standard exhaust Bob ---------- >From: Otisgood@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem >Date: Sat, 1 Apr, 2000, 8:26 PM > > In a message dated 4/1/00 7:23:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, > Limon3@email.msn.com writes: > >> Does anyone know if the struts on this plane were natural wood or doped >> silver? I'd also like to know if the lettering for the weights tables were >> the 3 line or two line version. TIA, Gabe. >> > Struts are definitely silbergrau. I have a Datafile that shows Holtzem's > plane. Unfortunately, It's taken from the right side so the weights table > doesn't show. Aeromaster shows it as three line, but I think Eduard shows it > as two. According to the Datafile "The attentive reader will note that the > weight tables stencilled on the DIIIa fuselage were not always identical. The > exact reason for this is unclear." Without hard evidence, the choice is > yours. I'd go with what ever seems to fit the best. > > Otis ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 23:39:04 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Wood Grain Decals Message-ID: <007701bf9c66$d7bf50e0$1a86aec7@dora9sprynet.com> Guys, For wood grain, check out Letraset I was going thru all of the dry-transfer letters today at the art supply store and there were tons of wood grain dry transfers! If you did a varigated brown pattern on decal filn and then laid the wood-grain dry transfers on top... DB -----Original Message----- From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 6:53 PM Subject: Re: Wood Grain Decals >What I've tried doing for interior bracings, etc is to use the wood "wrappers" >from some cigars. Real wood and very thin.....haven't tried to do a fuselage >with it, however. >Mike Muth > >Shane Weier wrote: > >> DB >> >> > Actually, on my 1/28 Camel, I just went ahead and used the real thing. >> >> Yes, I read that. I have a part finished LVG fuselage done the same way - >> all over. But 1/48 is pretty much the limit, because even there one needs to >> find extremely fine grained wood to be convincing *in scale* >> >> Shane >> >> ************************************************************** >> The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential >> and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). >> If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution >> or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are >> requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems >> to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. >> E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. >> ************************************************************** > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 06:55:01 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers Message-ID: <20000402065501.58540.qmail@hotmail.com> Hi, same here with the 1/48 Caudron. I did consider using wire, but in the end plastic rod was fine once rigged with fuse wire attached with PVA. An addiditional problem on this one is that the booms are square, and square strip somehow lacks the stiffness of plastic rod, so I selected a large enough diametre to allow scraping down to a square section. hth Peter L ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Michael Kendix" Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 19:20:52 -0500 (EST) Brent: Same problem with the Flashback Voisin 3. The booms are photoetch. With the F-40 I had to build my own booms using a jig. It was very straightforward to do this with plastic rod and I used bamboo for the struts. Michael >From: Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Rigging Ideas for Boomers >Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 18:07:18 -0500 (EST) > >Howdy! > > >>You are going to get many responses to this post so let me start >you off. On my web site, my method is under DURAS. It works for me. You >will probably find a combination of the many ideas will work for you.<< > >Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. I am concerned about rigging the booms >themselves. The stainless steel booms supplied in the Pegasus kit pose a >real rigging challenge to me. I can't drill holes in them and I don't want >to try and glue thread to them. I think tying knots will become very bulky. >Getting the pulleys on the struts will be less work. > >Oh yes! I am a recent DURAS convert. This method was used to rig my Sopwith >Pup and my Aviatik Berg D.I. Much better than the wire method I was using. > > >>I have the DH-2 on the table. How is it to build?<< > >So far it is okay. All the parts fit closely to the Datafile plans. I had >to thin the fuselage down a lot. I had to add a lot of stuff to the >interior too. I would have thought an instrument panel would have been >supplied. This is going to be a real gem when it is completed. > >I must be getting anal. I'm packing more time into smaller and smaller >models. > >Later! > >Brent > > > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 07:22:08 -0400 From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pfalz DIIIa - Max Holtzem Message-ID: On Sat, 1 Apr 2000 23:42:32 -0500 (EST), you wrote: >Also note the non-standard exhaust > >Bob > I did pick this up from list chatter. Now, to go back and add the mirror, flare rack. Len ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 08:45:12 +0100 From: Pedro e Francisca To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Wood Grain Decals Message-ID: <38E6FA87.CEB0A924@mail.telepac.pt> KarrArt@aol.com wrote:. > BTW...that idea about maybe using an ALPS to make decals from real woodgrain > may be a thing I'll have to try. > RK And what if you directly scan a piece of plywood instead of first photographing it and then scanning the photo? Just a thought... Pedro (who lives where there are no ALPS printers...) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 09:59:21 -0700 From: "David Calhoun" To: Subject: Re: SPAD XIII Question Message-ID: <003801bf9cc4$cc14c6e0$632e3ccc@oemcomputer> Hi Craig, I've got a set of drawings for the late Spad wings from Windsock in 1/28 scale. In order to make the kit wings into the later Straight edge wings, you must trim about 1/4" off each side, and add material to the leading edge & aileron. I am using milliput for this, haven't got it all finished yet. Any questions, or if you need a scan of the plans, let me know. Dave Calhoun -----Original Message----- From: Goebel Family To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 6:00 PM Subject: Re: SPAD XIII Question >Perhaps this has been covered before and if so, excuse me. > Has anyone attempted to convert the 1/28 SPAD wings to the > later rounded tip? If so, how did you go about it. Has there been > an article on this conversion such as the one FSM did > on the Fok. D.VII. Thanks a lot. > > Craig Goebel > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2236 **********************