WWI Digest 2220 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by "Michael Kendix" 2) Re: Austro-Hungarian Crown decals by "Craig Gavin" 3) Re: Hi Tech's LFG Roland D.II by "Lance Krieg" 4) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by "DAVID BURKE" 5) Re: One at a time/ was: What's (OT) on the work bench? by "Lance Krieg" 6) Re: D-VII ??? by "Lance Krieg" 7) Re: D-VII ??? by "Matthew Bittner" 8) MoS AI and Dr.I queries by "Lance Krieg" 9) Re: One at a time/ was: What's (OT) on the work bench? by Otisgood@aol.com 10) Re: D-VII ??? by "Lance Krieg" 11) Mark Miller's Alb C3 by Otisgood@aol.com 12) Dumb question by Otisgood@aol.com 13) Re: Dumb question by "Matthew Bittner" 14) Re: Dumb question by "Lance Krieg" 15) Help!! by Mark Vaughan-Jackson 16) Re: Help!! by "Lance Krieg" 17) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by "Peter Leonard" 18) Re: New OT(ish) Site by "Len Smith" 19) RE: Some Days by "dfernet0" 20) Re: Help!! by Otisgood@aol.com 21) USAAS mounts by smperry@mindspring.com 22) Re: 1/28 Camel questions by daniele silvestri 23) Re: USAAS mounts by "Matthew Bittner" 24) RE: 1/28 Camel questions by "dfernet0" 25) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by Albatrosdv@aol.com 26) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by Albatrosdv@aol.com 27) Re: Help!! by "Mike Dicianna" 28) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by KarrArt@aol.com 29) Re: Hi Tech's LFG Roland D.II by Albatrosdv@aol.com 30) Re: Dumb question by Lee Mensinger 31) Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? by "laskodi" 32) Re: Hi Tech's LFG Roland D.II by "Matthew Bittner" 33) RE: Dumb question by "Harris, Mack" 34) Re: Blame Canada! by KarrArt@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 05:49:56 PST From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: <20000327134956.27104.qmail@hotmail.com> >From: "Mike Dicianna" >... >I look around my new hobby loft and realize that I need >to put together a paint booth or some kind of exhaust >system. > >How do others handle this? I know there are some >commercial paint booths out there. Would like to try >to build my own.... > Mike: Check out http://www.automist2000.com/airad2.htm I have the Automist 2000 andhave been very happy with it. I use it in a room below my 2-year-old's bedroom at night, and it does not awake her. The new version is $10 less than I paid and is more pwerful. As for your own needs, they have a spray booth for $130, which I think is about half the price I've seen elsewhere. It may be less fancy (no light), but you could rig something. You can build your own but you have to mess around with brushless motors etc. Of course, if your job is constructing theatres then I'm sure you can do your own. Michael ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 08:12:45 -0600 From: "Craig Gavin" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Austro-Hungarian Crown decals Message-ID: <200003271444.IAA08225@postoffice6.ipa.net> Michael - The Pegasus sheet in 1/72nd scale has three sizes of the same version - all in the shape of a red/white shield topped with a gold crown. Lone Star Models also produced a sheet that included two versions - the same shield shape, and a rectangle in red/white, likewise topped by a gold crown (all the same size). This sheet was produced for their Lohner Flying Boat, which I think was 1/48th, but this sheet is in 1/72nd. As I remember, I bought it from LSM at a contest in Austin,TX about 5 years ago. Don't know if it is still available. - Craig Gavin Ý ---------- >From: "Michael Kendix" >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: Austro-Hungarian Crown decals >Date: Sun, Mar 26, 2000, 8:38 PM > >>From: Brent & Tina Theobald > >> >>I happen to have seen Americal's sheet for this last Thursday. I was >>interested in the Crowns for the Naval Phoenix I am doing. The >Crowns were >>a bit of a disappointment. A little blurry and under >detailed IMO. My >>references show jewels in the crown which do not >appear on the Americal >>sheet. Insignia Magazine (I don't have the >issue handy, but I'll get it if >>you like) has a nice drawing of the >Crown which would be suitable for >>scanning, coloring and printing on >an ALPS printer. This is what I plan to >>do. >> >>I have not seen the Pegasus decals though. They may be better. >> > > Brent: > > Thanks for your response. > > Shame about the Americal ones; I usually love their stuff. Please take a > look at > > http://www.pegasus.com > > and let me know if the Pegasus decals are better. Which number Americal > sheet is it? > > Michael > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:11:39 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Hi Tech's LFG Roland D.II Message-ID: Tom reports: " Hi Tech makes Merlin kits look good, if such is possible." Tom, such an outburst! The Breguet XIV and various detail kits I have from Hi Tech are certainly on a par with other current manufacturers. Have you got some sort of Franco-phobia, or are they just not providing you with free review samples? On the other hand, they are certainly NOT showing up at SMO, and I have been calling weekly since February. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:19:46 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: <003801bf97ff$fac2fa80$ad86aec7@dora9sprynet.com> Wayulll, I kin offer y'uns a swift kick in the arse, if'n that'll help... DB -----Original Message----- From: Peter Leonard To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Monday, March 27, 2000 2:26 AM Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? >Nothing this century :( Gotta DML Spad at the "nearly" stage been staring >back at me since October 99. Anybody have a cure? > >Peter L >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:36:01 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: One at a time/ was: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: Michael asks: "Any other one-at-a-timers?" I am, though I will sometimes have both a figure and a plane going simultaneously. I'm about halfway through the CSM W.12 in 1/48, and have almost 100 hours invested in the interior. I took some detail pictures, because it is an absolute certainty that the pilot's cockpit will NEVER be seen once the wing goes on. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:38:19 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: D-VII ??? Message-ID: EtH asks: "So on this fabric panel behind the seat, loz...?" According to my references, yes. And the upper longerons are wrapped in lozenge fabric to prevent chafing. HTH Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:45:52 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: D-VII ??? Message-ID: <200003271546.JAA21820@mail2.neonramp.com> On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:45:23 -0500 (EST), Lance Krieg wrote: > According to my references, yes. And the upper longerons are wrapped in lozenge fabric to prevent chafing. Are you sure? I have heard this on the D.VIII, but not the D.VII. If it was wrapped in fabric, then the early ones might not have been wrapped, since the fuselage was CDL. Matt Bittner http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:47:33 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: MoS AI and Dr.I queries Message-ID: The 1994 Osprey "Classic Aircraft of WWI" by Melvin Hiscock (ISBN 185532 407 5) has good detail photos of the cockpits of these planes. In fact, the book is highly evocative, and I had forgotten how good it was. While a number of the very fine color photos are of semi-correct repros, these two planes are to museum standards and can be considered as accurate and complete as current research allows, IMHO. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:54:56 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: One at a time/ was: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: <63.36dfa25.2610de50@aol.com> In a message dated 3/27/00 7:38:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, lance.krieg@amerus.com writes: > Michael asks: > > "Any other one-at-a-timers?" > I'm basically one, too. Have tried doing two at a time before but concentration gets skewed and I don't do either justice (that sounds kinda obscene, doesn't it)?. In fact, as I get to the end of a kit, I start thinking about the next one, and that makes me hurry to finish the one I'm working on, usually with bad results. As for overcoming procrastination, most procrastination is triggered by a fear of failure. If you can get over that you can probably start building again. Once you get "modeler's block" about the only way to overcome it is to simply force yourself to get back to work. Try eliminating other distractions from your life (if possible). Once you get started back, you develop a renewed energy and enthusiasm that can lead you to finish the kit. Once you finish it, the sense of accomplishment usually motivates you to continue to the next one. At least that's how it works for me. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:55:47 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: D-VII ??? Message-ID: Excellent point, Matt, I should have been more careful... The pictures I have seen with lozenge screens and wraps were later machines, with lozenge fuselages. I would ASSUME that a streaky-finished early D.VII would have a plain linen screen and wraps. Hell, I just built a streaky D.VII, and put in a CDL screen... you'd think I would remember. Congratulations on your big weekend in the Quad Cities... and to SP, too, for his Florida triumphs! Lance >>> tbittners@sprintmail.com 03/27 9:51 AM >>> On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:45:23 -0500 (EST), Lance Krieg wrote: > According to my references, yes. And the upper longerons are wrapped in lozenge fabric to prevent chafing. Are you sure? I have heard this on the D.VIII, but not the D.VII. If it was wrapped in fabric, then the early ones might not have been wrapped, since the fuselage was CDL. Matt Bittner http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:07:45 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Mark Miller's Alb C3 Message-ID: <46.332d88e.2610e151@aol.com> Just viewed Mark's Alb C3 on the WWI page. I built this kit a few years ago, and it is a "booger." Mark, from what I can tell, did an outstanding job on it. I can't imagine installing real plywood on the fuselage (Mark, have you heard of decals or just painting it?), but the result looks fabulous to me. I'd love to see it in person. Despite the difficulties, this is about the only kit of this type in 1/48 that I know of, and it is worth the effort required to produce it. Great job, Mark! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:11:49 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Dumb question Message-ID: <69.2ce9df0.2610e245@aol.com> How do you go about posting pictures of your models? Does it require a digital camera? Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:16:39 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Dumb question Message-ID: <200003271617.KAA22695@mail2.neonramp.com> On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:17:00 -0500 (EST), Otisgood@aol.com wrote: > How do you go about posting pictures of your models? Does it require a > digital camera? Thanks. Not at all. Some of us are lucky to have access to a digital camera, but that's not necessary. After taking decent enough photo's, you can scan the pictures and send in the scanned .jpg or .gif images. If you don't have a scanner, there are us on the list will to scan for you. Matt Bittner http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:23:25 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Dumb question Message-ID: Otis asks: "How do you go about posting pictures of your models? Does it require a digital camera? Thanks." I think this is a very good question, and I would like to learn from some of the folks on the list who know something about cameras. I've been shooting mine with a SLR 35 mm Nikon, with macro lens, color-correcting and close-up filters, and the whole process is completely hit-or-miss. With the tiny aperature and light-absorbing filter, I've been using a LOT of light, and consequently heat. In fact, my last session melted a cowling that I'd spent many hours installing with 26 functional louvers. But I hate to drag everything outdoors. Who's a photographer? Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:10:14 -0230 From: Mark Vaughan-Jackson To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Help!! Message-ID: Greetings, just signed up for the list and am in desperate need of help. I have an ancient kit of the Caudron G3. Not sure of the scale but the top wing is about a foot long. It's one of those odd multi-media kits - some sort of weird resin/fibreglass material and metal struts. Everything screws together and you're provided with sheets of yellow self adhesive linen. The engine is gorgeous, lovely details and about two inches in diametre Suffice to say it's very old and a pain in the proverbials to build, even after I chucked out the linen, scratch built replacement struts and figured out how to ignore the directions for the 'realistic working control surfaces' (neat for some but to make it work the control lines are woefully inaccurate.) Annyway, I'm trying to find some good reference materials on colour options, cockpit interiors etc, preferably on-line. Can anyone point me in the right direction?? Also, at risk of betraying my ignorance, anyone know of any good Fe2 b kits out there, the bigger the better? Tks Mark V-J ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:48:22 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Help!! Message-ID: Not much help from here, but: "I have an ancient kit of the Caudron G3. Not sure of the scale..." This must be the 1/24 Metropolitan (?) kit from Switzerland, circa 1980 (?) "... any good Fe2 b kits out there, the bigger the better?" Aeroclub's version in 1/48 is the biggest I know of, and makes up into a most acceptable model. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:50:07 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: <20000327165007.36025.qmail@hotmail.com> "Wayulll, I kin offer y'uns a swift kick in the arse, if'n that'll help... DB" Thanks DB, you really are all armpit. If I catch myself responding to any NRA type threads I shall certainly take you up on your generous offer cheers Peter L ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 16:03:56 +0100 From: "Len Smith" To: Subject: Re: New OT(ish) Site Message-ID: <000001bf980e$23d096e0$07867ed4@mesh> Matt, Only three Escadrille a/c shown. The Swan marked SOP.111, the Winged Serpent of SOP.107 and a stylised Eagle(?) of SOP.66. lensmith@clara.net http://home.clara.net/lensmith ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew Bittner To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:06 PM Subject: Re: New OT(ish) Site > On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 02:51:45 -0500 (EST), Len Smith wrote: > > > Several, including the cover (no serial number), N5098, N5107, line up of 3 > > wing a/c including one identified as N5094, but wearing Wing No32 as did > > N5098 (?misprint ) and one unidentified showing markings repeated on > > tailplane upper surfaces. > > Any new Escadrille shots? > > > Matt Bittner > http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook > http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:20:57 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: Some Days Message-ID: <004f01bf9810$d0e795c0$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Wow! What a weekend it was in the northern hemisphere! Congratulations Matt and Steve, those prizes are more than deserved. The only odd thing is that no-one in the list won an Oscar ;-) D. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:24:16 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Help!! Message-ID: In a message dated 3/27/00 8:37:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, mvj@thetelegram.com writes: > just signed up for the list and am in desperate need of help. Welcome to the list. I'm not much help on the Cauldron, but I guarantee you someone around here is. Aeroclub has an Fe2b kit. I think you can get one from Roll Models. Good to have another big scaler on the list. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:27:50 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: "Multiple recipients of list" Subject: USAAS mounts Message-ID: <003801bf9811$c7a357a0$930956d1@default> So what were the combat aircraft of the USAAS in France? I have 1/72 kits of the Nie.28, Spad XIII, Breget 14, DH4, Se5a, Salmson, Tommy Morse, and Jenny. Of course the last two weren't combat planes. Did I miss any? TIA sp E-mail smperry@mindspring.com Web Site http://www.freeyellow.com/members8/wwimodeler/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:29:44 +0200 From: daniele silvestri To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: 1/28 Camel questions Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.20000327192944.015f9890@pontedera.pisoft.it> Hi David... Sorry but I'm realy late (modem's problem). I don't know if you need help but if you want I'm here, sometimes and if you type slowly ;-) Peter is the only bear my english! Regards All At 00.48 21/03/00 -0500, you wrote: >Hey Folks, > > I am somehow blazing thru scratching the cockpit of this 1/28 Sopwith >Camel.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:33:04 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: USAAS mounts Message-ID: <200003271733.LAA03230@mail1.neonramp.com> On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:32:44 -0500 (EST), smperry@mindspring.com wrote: > So what were the combat aircraft of the USAAS in France? > > I have 1/72 kits of the Nie.28, Spad XIII, Breget 14, DH4, Se5a, Salmson, > Tommy Morse, and Jenny. Of course the last two weren't combat planes. > > Did I miss any? SPADs 11, 12 and 16. Nieuport 17bis+ for training at Isoudun. Maybe some Strutters? Matt Bittner http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 14:35:41 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: 1/28 Camel questions Message-ID: <007c01bf9812$dfa92220$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi Daniele welcome to the list and congratulations for your impressive work on that engine and the incredible effort of building such a beauty from Airfix's Fok Dr1! D. ----- Original Message ----- From: daniele silvestri To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 2:35 PM Subject: Re: 1/28 Camel questions > Hi David... > Sorry but I'm realy late (modem's problem). > I don't know if you need help but if you want I'm here, sometimes and if > you type slowly ;-) > Peter is the only bear my english! > > Regards All > > At 00.48 21/03/00 -0500, you wrote: > >Hey Folks, > > > > I am somehow blazing thru scratching the cockpit of this 1/28 Sopwith > >Camel.... > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:44:33 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: In a message dated 3/26/100 9:15:13 PM EST, laskodi@launchnet.com writes: << Next up, I think will be an old Tom's Modelworks Pfalz DXII in resin that I just picked up at a garage sale for $10!. If any one has some helpful hints on building that puppy I'd like to hear from you. >> DON'T DO IT!!! The wings are as thick as a D.VII when they should be as thin as a SPAD's, and there is *no* way to correct that past getting new wings. If you really want to do a Tom's D.XII, get the far better vacuform. The resin casting of this kit sank his reputation - and that's his words on the subject. Luckily, wasting $10 isn't as bad these days as it used to be. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:50:54 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: This century: Current: DML (Hasegawa) D.VII as Jasta B a/c. All sub-assemblies complete and all decals done (full lozenge). Needs addition of armament and final assembly. Upcoming: Two-fer - Eduard Hanriot H.D.1/H.D.2 built at the same time, one as the starry Italian job and the other as "Bam!" Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 09:53:59 -0800 From: "Mike Dicianna" To: Subject: Re: Help!! Message-ID: <003e01bf9815$6f546400$5f7f3ace@pavilion> Welcome to our group. Not much help on the Caudron, it sounds like a collector kit though. Where do you hail from? You will find the folks here some of the most knowlegeable and helpful in your hobby experience. MikeDC "Der Rote Modellflugzeugbauer" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:04:08 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: In a message dated 3/26/00 7:23:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, Suvoroff@aol.com writes: << Two items; The 1/48th scale Eduard Albatros D.Va, which has been on hold for a while and is still on hold until I become a happy confident airbrusher. Of course, lack of practice leads to lack of confidence leads to lack of use leads to lack of practice... >> Do what the Kid of the House around here did- get a cheap snaptite A-10 Warthog and practice. This thing must have 1/4" paint on it by now. Whenever he's got to do some airbrushing, he warms up first on this monster. RK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:05:15 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hi Tech's LFG Roland D.II Message-ID: <29.2ec54f5.2610fcdb@aol.com> In a message dated 3/27/100 10:14:49 AM EST, lance.krieg@amerus.com writes: << Have you got some sort of Franco-phobia, or are they just not providing you with free review samples? >> I have review samples of all. They just are not up to what they should be at their price. the D.501 is particularly egregious. I personally don't see how anyone has made anything presentable from that Breguet and congratulate anyone who has. I guess the airplane doesn't have enough "charisma" to make me go the extra thirty miles. One can see the quality by the amount of discounting SMO has them listed at now. And the kits are *not* at conemporary standards of production, and I am not comparing them with Eduard kits. FWIW, the company I would give greatest kudos to for improvement is Gavia. The Fokker D.II is "early Eduard" in production quality, but I saw the Po-2 in a shop this weekend, and it is fully up to contemporary Eduard standards. Some of the best fabric effect on the wings anyone has done. The engine is very sharp. I'll definitely look forward to more from them and am eager to do a review when ours arrives. Tom Cleaver Tom ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:16:46 -0600 From: Lee Mensinger To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Dumb question Message-ID: <38DFA58E.732A5A07@wireweb.net> Place the lights farther away from the model. Three or more feet will give you lots of light. You can also use white card stock to reflect light into places to make shadows "thinner" and not as dark. There is even a special white umbrella made and you shine the light into that and it reflects back to the model. If you are using "Outdoor film" get proper color temperature lighting to match the outdoor film requirements and take off the filter. Use only the close up lenses and things will get better. If you have any further questions contact me directly and I will help best I can. I have been taking photos for about 67 years and I use a Nikon 8008, or my antique Nikon F from 1960. I have some others as well. Another thing that might help is using a depth of field table and I can explain that to you directly. It would be to long to do here. Lee M. Lance Krieg wrote: > Otis asks: > > "How do you go about posting pictures of your models? Does it require a digital camera? Thanks." > > I think this is a very good question, and I would like to learn from some of the folks on the list who know something about cameras. > > I've been shooting mine with a SLR 35 mm Nikon, with macro lens, color-correcting and close-up filters, and the whole process is completely hit-or-miss. > > With the tiny aperature and light-absorbing filter, I've been using a LOT of light, and consequently heat. In fact, my last session melted a cowling that I'd spent many hours installing with 26 functional louvers. But I hate to drag everything outdoors. > > Who's a photographer? > > Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 10:21:05 -0800 From: "laskodi" To: Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? Message-ID: <002601bf9819$37d259c0$363819d0@laskodi> Tom, thanks for the info. The wings were thick as a board! Oh well, at least I can find some use for the white metal and PE, in which case $10 wasn't a bad deal! But now, I have to decide on a new kit to build next! darn!!!! Hmmm, wonder if my wife will spring for the new Blue Max Snipe! ----Bob Laskodi ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Multiple recipients of list" Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 9:48 AM Subject: Re: What's (OT) on the work bench? > In a message dated 3/26/100 9:15:13 PM EST, laskodi@launchnet.com writes: > > << Next up, I think will be an old Tom's Modelworks Pfalz DXII in resin that I > just picked up at a garage sale for $10!. If any one has some helpful hints > on building that puppy I'd like to hear from you. >> > > DON'T DO IT!!! The wings are as thick as a D.VII when they should be as thin > as a SPAD's, and there is *no* way to correct that past getting new wings. > If you really want to do a Tom's D.XII, get the far better vacuform. The > resin casting of this kit sank his reputation - and that's his words on the > subject. > > Luckily, wasting $10 isn't as bad these days as it used to be. > > Tom Cleaver > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:17:05 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Hi Tech's LFG Roland D.II Message-ID: <200003271817.MAA04870@mail1.neonramp.com> On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:12:44 -0500 (EST), Albatrosdv@aol.com wrote: > I have review samples of all. They just are not up to what they should be at > their price. the D.501 is particularly egregious. I personally don't see > how anyone has made anything presentable from that Breguet and congratulate > anyone who has. I guess the airplane doesn't have enough "charisma" to make > me go the extra thirty miles. One can see the quality by the amount of > discounting SMO has them listed at now. David Solosoy (sorry if I misspelled that) built one that is quite wonderful, and can be seen at the Perth site: http://pmms.webace.com.au/index.html If you want the URL of the actual review, you can get there from my French pages. It sounds very buildable! Sure, not Tamigawa, but still... Matt Bittner http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 12:14:21 -0600 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Dumb question Message-ID: If you're shooting slides, switch to tungsten film and you can use regular light bulbs and like Lee said use white cards or even white sheets of paper to bounce light to different areas. I also use some small desk lamps with 40 or 60 watt bulbs to shine light at different areas. When you switch to tungsten and get rid of the filters you should need a lot less light. Mack -----Original Message----- From: Lee Mensinger [mailto:lemen@wireweb.net] Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 12:15 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Dumb question Place the lights farther away from the model. Three or more feet will give you lots of light. You can also use white card stock to reflect light into places to make shadows "thinner" and not as dark. There is even a special white umbrella made and you shine the light into that and it reflects back to the model. If you are using "Outdoor film" get proper color temperature lighting to match the outdoor film requirements and take off the filter. Use only the close up lenses and things will get better. If you have any further questions contact me directly and I will help best I can. I have been taking photos for about 67 years and I use a Nikon 8008, or my antique Nikon F from 1960. I have some others as well. Another thing that might help is using a depth of field table and I can explain that to you directly. It would be to long to do here. Lee M. Lance Krieg wrote: > Otis asks: > > "How do you go about posting pictures of your models? Does it require a digital camera? Thanks." > > I think this is a very good question, and I would like to learn from some of the folks on the list who know something about cameras. > > I've been shooting mine with a SLR 35 mm Nikon, with macro lens, color-correcting and close-up filters, and the whole process is completely hit-or-miss. > > With the tiny aperature and light-absorbing filter, I've been using a LOT of light, and consequently heat. In fact, my last session melted a cowling that I'd spent many hours installing with 26 functional louvers. But I hate to drag everything outdoors. > > Who's a photographer? > > Lance ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 13:34:05 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Blame Canada! Message-ID: <5b.3ac58c0.2611039d@aol.com> In a message dated 3/27/00 3:57:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, bigglesrfc@globalserve.net writes: << Brad now off to straighten my seams, and these heels... they're killing me. I should have been a lumberjack like Mama. >> don't forget to eat your lunch! RK ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2220 **********************