WWI Digest 2208 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 1/28 Camel questions by "DAVID BURKE" 2) Re: The Spirit Is Upon Me... - was : Weekend o' fun! by "DAVID BURKE" 3) Re: 1/28 Camel questions by "DAVID BURKE" 4) Re : Engine Wiring by THENRYS@aol.com 5) ot - Engines by THENRYS@aol.com 6) Re: 1/28 Camel questions by "Peter Leonard" 7) Teflon for Seatbelts? by Matthew Zivich 8) Re: Teflon for Seatbelts? by Albatrosdv@aol.com 9) Re: Wiring In-line engines... was Fast Metal... by Steve Cox 10) Re: Southern Expo. by Steve Cox 11) teflon as seatbelts by Allan Wright 12) Re: teflon as seatbelts by Albatrosdv@aol.com 13) Re: Wiring In-line engines... was Fast Metal... by "Lance Krieg" 14) RE: 1/28 Camel questions by Shane Weier 15) RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? by Shane Weier 16) Re: List Buttons by Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com 17) RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? by Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com 18) More MoS AI images by "Matthew Bittner" 19) Transparent Wings by Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com 20) RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? by Shane Weier 21) USAS blue(s)? by skarver@banet.net 22) Re: USAS blue(s)? by THOMAS SOLINSKI 23) Re: More MoS AI images by smperry@mindspring.com 24) Re: Teflon for Seatbelts? by "Ray Boorman" 25) Re: Southern Expo. by "Michael Kendix" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:46:48 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: 1/28 Camel questions Message-ID: <003b01bf9356$31ac28e0$ed80aec7@dora9sprynet.com> I'll start now... I built the cockpit framing on top of the old to use as a template. Then I removed all of the internal detail. I then used a piece of light mahogany veneer to replace the deck - I soaked it in warm water and ammonia to make it formable. I scratched the stick (I lost mine) and have added the bracing wires from grey thread. I'm also replacing the side panels one at a time. I will probably add the engine mount as well as it is somewhat visible. As far as the cockpit goes, wait for the pics - it might make you feel ill. I have scratchbuilt the main and auxiliary tanks - the rudder bar is next. As soon as I get my stuff from Eric, I'll finish out the cockpit with all of the fuel control gear and the universal joint for the joystick. This is a horrible temptation for me as it is very possible to articulate all of the flying surfaces.... but no. Maybe next time. DB -----Original Message----- From: Charles and Linda Duckworth To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 7:26 AM Subject: Re: 1/28 Camel questions >David, when you're finished can you list the changes you made to the kit, I >know at least 20 of us would like to tackle the same project. > >Charlie > >> I am somehow blazing thru scratching the cockpit of this 1/28 Sopwith >>Camel, and have a question about the seatbelts - I assume simply lap belts. >>Are they similar to a Sutton type harness, or are they different? Also, >>what color would interior structural metal fittings like these gusset >plates >>on the frame be? I am assuming a battleship grey or similar, but does >>anyone have the full dope on it? The framing and main fuel tank are done, >>and I should get thru the auxiliary tank and joystick mounting tonight. >>Maybe even start the seat too. >> >> >>DB >> >> > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:51:46 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: The Spirit Is Upon Me... - was : Weekend o' fun! Message-ID: <003c01bf9356$3358ee80$ed80aec7@dora9sprynet.com> > 'at's the spirit! (maybe try a hand carved prop?) >RK Buddy, that was the first thing that I thought of when I opened the box. DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:54:49 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: 1/28 Camel questions Message-ID: <003d01bf9356$34c10a00$ed80aec7@dora9sprynet.com> Hey Shane, These 'bloody great wide waist belts' (technical specification, no?) - are they webbing or leather? DB P.S. - I think you're right about the Japanning. -----Original Message----- From: Shane Weier To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Monday, March 20, 2000 11:54 PM Subject: RE: 1/28 Camel questions >DB, > >> I am somehow blazing thru scratching the cockpit of this >> 1/28 Sopwith >> Camel, and have a question about the seatbelts - I assume >> simply lap belts. >> Are they similar to a Sutton type harness, or are they >> different? > >It may vary, but the ones I've seen are bloody great wide waist only belts >(about 8" wide) > > >> what color would interior structural metal fittings like >> these gusset plates >> on the frame be? I am assuming a battleship grey or similar, but does >> anyone have the full dope on it? > >Japanned - that is, black, though that may vary > >..or I may be right off base from relying on memory again > >Shane > > > > > > >************************************************************** >The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential >and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). >If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution >or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are >requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems >to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. >E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. >************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 12:47:21 EST From: THENRYS@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re : Engine Wiring Message-ID: <7c.31f268f.26090fa9@aol.com> In a message dated 3/20/00 9:40:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu writes: Lance is helping Fernando wire an engine : > Fernando is wiring an engine and struggles: > > " getting those @*&%#^! wires to stay just where I put them on the > distributer cap?" > > I just finished this chore, myself, and can definitely sympathize; about 4 > hours to wire the plugs and the distributors on a 150 HP Benz Bz.III. If you > don't mind a lengthy description, read on... > This is the method that I use for wiring radial engines on ot aircraft. Pete Chalmers showed me this method and it works wonders on a radial - I don't see why it wouldn't work on an inline OT model. I use red armature wire from radio shack ~0.007 dia, and get the next size up INSULATED wire - mine was a white jacket over copper wire. Cut several lengths of the red armature wire and straighten them by rolling a rubber knob over them to get them good and straight. Now cut a short length of the insulated wire and extract the wire from the insulation. Cut pieces of insulation ~1/16 long. These serve as the insulation boots for the wire and also look a lot like the spark plugs themselves on the cylinder end. Slide one 'boot' onto the end of a wire and CA it in place. Put another 'boot' on the wire but do not glue it yet. For radials, I start at the ignition ring and work my way to the cylinders, but on an inline I'd reverse this. Start by drilling the cylinder and insert the booted end of the wire. Now gently make your wiring run back to the distributor. Drill the distributor and place the armature wire end in the hole, then slide the 'boot' along the wire with an xacto blade until it seats the wire in the distributor. This final step really secures the wire in the hole. Hit it with a bit of thin CA to secure. You can also cut very thin strips of tape ~0.030 wide - to use to replicate any securing points for the wire. I use this to tie the ignition wires to the connecting rods on ot Radials. This really works great. I can ususally wire a double row radial in one sitting and it really adds to the look of the motor. Sorry If I rambled too long. Hope it helps. Todd Henry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 12:47:22 EST From: THENRYS@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: ot - Engines Message-ID: <37.2c9ca36.26090faa@aol.com> An ot (but tweener) note regarding engines. For anyone who has not built the Accurate F3F-1 yet, the engine supplied this model requires none of this. Your ignition wiring is supplied as some tremendously thin PE which looks fantastic. You can build and paint this engine to competition quality in about 1 hour. Glue it, paint it, and wash it and that's it. Without a doubt the best out of the box radial engine that I can even imagine - although I haven't built the beautiful (and ot) Swordfish yet. Todd Henry ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:08:06 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: 1/28 Camel questions Message-ID: <20000321180806.60146.qmail@hotmail.com> Somewhere out there lurks Danielle Silvestri who has already been there done that and bought the tee-shirt. It might be worth looking him up on the subscribers list and dropping him a line. He sent me a load of very impressive pix which promptly got lost in a crash, only the Bentley ones survived and are currently on my web site. cheers Peter L IPMS UK Lancashire & Cheshire Branch http://www.storks.cwc.net http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com Webmaster WW1 Modelers Web Ring http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com/webring.html ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 13:45:29 -0500 From: Matthew Zivich To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Teflon for Seatbelts? Message-ID: <38D7C349.F18BF3D8@svsu.edu> Has anyone ever tried teflon tape for settles in 1/48th scale aircraft? I got the idea while trying to decide what material to use and thought I would suggest it to list members. If the material can be cut and pasted properly I thought it would have the correct floppiness for seat belts. This may have been posted before but were the belts made of cotton drill similar to today's car belts? If so what would be the proper color - neutral buff or gray? Matt Z ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 15:32:18 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Teflon for Seatbelts? Message-ID: <9f.322b1e3.26093652@aol.com> In a message dated 3/21/100 1:48:54 PM EST, mzivich@svsu.edu writes: << If the material can be cut and pasted properly I thought it would have the correct floppiness for seat belts. >> Best material I have found for searbelts is the lead foil you can find on a wine bottle. Helps distract you from the latest modeling crisis to get hold of the foil, too. (hic) Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:37:40 +0000 From: Steve Cox To: Subject: Re: Wiring In-line engines... was Fast Metal... Message-ID: What scale are you working in, 1/72nd or 1/144th? Steve =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get some models finished ================ > From: "Lance Krieg" > Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 15:09:58 -0500 (EST) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Wiring In-line engines... was Fast Metal... > > Fernando is wiring an engine and struggles: > > " getting those @*&%#^! wires to stay just where I put them on the distributer > cap?" > > I just finished this chore, myself, and can definitely sympathize; about 4 > hours to wire the plugs and the distributors on a 150 HP Benz Bz.III. If you > don't mind a lengthy description, read on... > > FWIW, I proceeded as follows: > > 1. Poke (not drill) the distributor and spark plug holes with a needle; the > tapered hole will provide some friction to grip the wires. > > 2. Use copper wire: it bends easily, but retains any curves or kinks induced > with tweezers. I've got some that's about .005. > > 3. Use heat-stretched plastic tube for the wire chase along the cylinders > Often this is molded on, but I remove it and glue on this substitute if enough > of the engine is exposed to make it worth wiring the distributor. Besides > looking better, it'll help in the gluing. > > 4. Introduce the distributor wires into the tube, but do not glue them; one at > a time pull enough of the wire as will be needed out of the tube, crimp a > small bend in the end, apply thick CA to the end, and insert tnto the > distributor. The tube prevents the loose end from flapping around, and > greatly aids in the positioniong and gluing of the wire. > > 4. When all the wires have been added to the distributor, feed the excess > length back into the tube and freeze the lot with an application of thin CA. > > 5. Flood the face of the distributor with a drop of thin CA, and then wick up > the excess with the corner of a tissue. This re-seats any wires that may have > been traumatized earlier in the process. > > 6. Introduce the sparkplug wires into the holes in the cylinders, and poke > the other ends down behind the tube/wire chase or into the foreward end of the > tube, as demanded by the prototype engine is question. Secure both ends with > CA. > > 7. Build up the sparkplug body (and distributor wire attachment, if required) > using thinned body putty or white glue. This is a lot easier - and stronger - > than trying to cement the wire to the tip of a pre-built plug. > > 8. Paint to suit. > > Hope that helps... > > > Lance > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:37:41 +0000 From: Steve Cox To: Subject: Re: Southern Expo. Message-ID: I did even better later on - all the girls at work wanted to come and visit me when I said I'd got two kittens at the weekend. I should have stopped while I was ahead and not mentioned the elephant ;-( My bag of five kits cost me £15 so I came away happy. I bought the Otto a couple of years ago , but I haven't started it yet so I can't give you any tips nb Eastchurch Kitten ab (also building) Sparrow Regards Steve =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get some models finished ================ > From: "Len Smith" > Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 10:10:12 -0500 (EST) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Southern Expo. > > Steve, > > You did better than me, I only managed to bag a sparrow ! > Plus a Wings 72 Salmson, an Otto Doubledecker (I don't usually build > Germans, but this one looks interesting) and an uncounted bag of wheels > (thanks Ray). Did you see the BE2e fuselage on the Pegasus stand? Looks > like nice thin sides, so I ordered one. > No sign of Defter Schorsch at the show, so I still don't know if Classic > Plane vacs are still in production or not. > > Regards Len. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 15:43:56 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi Subject: teflon as seatbelts Message-ID: <200003212043.PAA10262@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Another source of lead foil is the middle layer of a toothpaste tube. The plastic is best removed chemicaly. -Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | "Without love, life's just a long fight" - SSJ University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 15:48:24 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: teflon as seatbelts Message-ID: In a message dated 3/21/100 3:42:07 PM EST, aew@pease1.sr.unh.edu writes: << Another source of lead foil is the middle layer of a toothpaste tube. The plastic is best removed chemicaly. -Allan >> But not nearly as much fun in the process. :-) Tom C ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 14:50:58 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Wiring In-line engines... was Fast Metal... Message-ID: What scale are you working in, 1/72nd or 1/144th? Steve These are wargame models: 1/285 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:48:20 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: 1/28 Camel questions Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E57@mimhexch.mim.com.au> DB, > These 'bloody great wide waist belts' (technical > specification, no?) - > are they webbing or leather? > Webbing, and webbing colour (buff) on the ones I looked at last night. And RE: the japanning, I'm sure of that now too, at least in the pics I've seen. Incidentally, the practice of blackening structural steel fittings by this method seems close to universal on British built aircraft, so much so that I believe it may have been "required" by the authorities. Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:00:19 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E58@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Tom says: > Best material I have found for searbelts is the lead foil you > can find on a > wine bottle. Helps distract you from the latest modeling > crisis to get hold of the foil, too. (hic) > I couldn't agree more - it's great stuff and usefull elsewhere too. I cut the odd shaped mounting for RFC pitot tubes from lead foil because it can be wrapped around the struts tightly without stressing anything and holds in place with just a touch of CyA or white glue. But.....it's getting hard to find here. Despite my (ahem) prodigious consumption of red, lead seals have become confined to some imported brews after some Bureaucrat idiot decided lead is dangerous. Duh...Hellooooo...the type that chew the ends off the bottles drink *beer* Flipping nanny state. It's getting as bad as.... Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 08:18:59 -0600 From: Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: List Buttons Message-ID: Howdy! >I sent you the button at 100% and 360dpi .. when you print it out it should >be normal size I printed mine at 600dpi. That must be it. Thanks! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:11:38 -0600 From: Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? Message-ID: Howdy! >But.....it's getting hard to find here. Despite my (ahem) prodigious >consumption of red, lead seals have become confined to some imported brews >after some Bureaucrat idiot decided lead is dangerous. Duh...Hellooooo...the >type that chew the ends off the bottles drink *beer* Now there is nothing wrong with a good bottle of beer (Guiness or a Scotch Ale). Besides, wine comes in boxes now. What do you use to make the buckles with? Later! Brent ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:12:53 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: More MoS AI images Message-ID: <200003220015.QAA12540@raven.a001.sprintmail.com> Thanks to Lyle Lamboley, I have added three more shots of the Weeks Morane Saulnier Type AI: http://home.sprintmail.com/~tbittners/ An interesting note I will have to research. It's either just this example, but there is a noticeable gap in the wing right on the centerline. Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:20:55 -0600 From: Brent_A_Theobald@notes.seagate.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Transparent Wings Message-ID: Greetings, I have been having a bit of a debate with a friend of mine about the wings on the DH-2. If you look thru the Datafile almost every picture showing the undersurface of the wing has a shadow from the wing structure. It looks to me as if the wing structure casts a shadow even if the upper wing is PC-10. My friend contends these are all photos of CDL wings (granted, some of them have to be). I am basing my theory on the fact that the white in the roundel showing thru to the bottom is brighter than the rest of the wing. If it was a CDL wing wouldn't the roundel be darker? In short, my question is: does the wing structure cast a strong shadow when the upper surface is painted PC-10. The reason I am asking is I have been working on this effect with my Pegasus kit. Thanks! Brent ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 10:47:42 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E5C@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Brent, > Now there is nothing wrong with a good bottle of beer > (Guiness or a Scotch > Ale). I have nothing against beer except that it makes me too full to drink red. > Besides, wine comes in boxes now. That's WINE! Good grief, and I thought it was for rinsing glasses. (LOL - the boxes "casks" were an Aussie invention which helped popularise wine in a beer guzzlers market; the vast majority of wine has been properly bottled for years now though you can still get decent "drink NOW" wine in a box for that pissy list party....HIC!) > > What do you use to make the buckles with? > Getting OT.... 5 thou card, 0.1mm copper wire, lead foil, modified etched buckles, old Historex buckles, whatever else comes to hand. Like RK's place, anything approaching my bench at an inopportune moment can find itself shaped, trimmed and superglued ! Shane (the kids stay beyond arms reach - and we no longer have a cat ;-) ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:23:14 -0500 From: skarver@banet.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: USAS blue(s)? Message-ID: <38D82082.3834D974@banet.net> As the sun slowly sank on List-Land, tinting the the towering frail titans with a dusky glow, Stef wondered: On the spectrum of le bleu subtle de France to forthright blue of the English, where the Yankee blue of the US Air Service fall? TIA to all, SK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:06:28 -0600 From: THOMAS SOLINSKI To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: USAS blue(s)? Message-ID: <38D82AA4.DBB2BF46@home.com> > As the sun slowly sank on List-Land, HARUMPH My good sir! The sun NEVER sets on THE LIST! And the blue was probably French surplus. According to "THE OFFICIAL MONOGRAM U.S. ARMY AIR SERVICE AND AIR CORPS AIRCRAFT COLOR GUIDE" the specification for the national marking did not go into effect until 1919. However the colors were referred to as FLAG RED, WHITE & BLUE. Since the circle and star with red dot and then the concentric circle were around prior to this date it would be safe to speculate that they were relatively dark colors as in the national flag from the beginning. Except for cases as I started with. French surplus. Even the monogram book hesitates strongly when they try to define color. HTH Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 21:29:00 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: More MoS AI images Message-ID: <000d01bf93a6$62e6a480$cc0356d1@default> > Thanks to Lyle Lamboley, I have added three more shots of the Weeks > Morane Saulnier Type AI: > > http://home.sprintmail.com/~tbittners/ > > An interesting note I will have to research. It's either just this > example, but there is a noticeable gap in the wing right on the > centerline. > Matt: Wouldn't a gap like that be covered with a sheet metal or ply strip. Wouldn't the gap for the attach fittings need to be a bit wider on two swept panels than two joined straight? The attach fittings on the spars couldn't meet properly on the swept panels unless they were bent so they met head on. This would necessitate a wider gap than on a straight wing made of two panels. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:42:40 -0800 From: "Ray Boorman" To: Subject: Re: Teflon for Seatbelts? Message-ID: <00a201bf93a8$4b640c60$9b1335d1@bconnected.net> Shane, I have it now, the reason why wwi modelers are all "pickled, inebriated soused, under the weather etc". Is because they are stockpiling the lead foil for future projects. I used to use lead foil on Napoleonic Figurines, sure beat the stuff supplied for belts. Oh for those thinking of using Teflon tape, can this stuff be painted??, it would seem to me it wouldn't easily accept paint? As to nanny states hah, come to Canada the home of the worst in bureaucratic bilingual politically correctness. Our guys would have to spend at least 15 years in committees etc before they banned the lead on wine bottles...... Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: Shane Weier To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 3:02 PM Subject: RE: Teflon for Seatbelts? > I couldn't agree more - it's great stuff and usefull elsewhere too. I cut > the odd shaped mounting for RFC pitot tubes from lead foil because it can be > wrapped around the struts tightly without stressing anything and holds in > place with just a touch of CyA or white glue. > > But.....it's getting hard to find here. Despite my (ahem) prodigious > consumption of red, lead seals have become confined to some imported brews > after some Bureaucrat idiot decided lead is dangerous. Duh...Hellooooo...the > type that chew the ends off the bottles drink *beer* > > Flipping nanny state. It's getting as bad as.... > > Shane > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************** > The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential > and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution > or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are > requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems > to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. > E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. > ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:25:56 PST From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Southern Expo. Message-ID: <20000322032557.93357.qmail@hotmail.com> >From: Steve Cox > >nb Eastchurch Kitten Steve: I would be most interested to hear how that is going; pitfalls, after market parts etc. I was going to do it as my first vac and I saw Len's, which was excellent, however, I was advised to select something else for a first vac. Michael ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2208 **********************