WWI Digest 2194 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Merlin kits, was Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling by Shane Weier 2) RE: Merlin kits, was Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling by "Peter Leonard" 3) R/C by BEN8800@aol.com 4) Flashback and Toko Strutters by Pedro e Francisca 5) Re: vile thieverywasRe: Original photo woes by Pedro e Francisca 6) Re: Leather coaming question by Pedro e Francisca 7) Re: New member by Pedro e Francisca 8) RE: The Lozenge Conundrum by Shane Weier 9) Re: Flashback and Toko Strutters by "Peter Leonard" 10) Re: New member by Otisgood@aol.com 11) Re: Flashback and Toko Strutters by Pedro e Francisca 12) Re: New member by Pedro e Francisca 13) Re: The Lozenge Conundrum by Albatrosdv@aol.com 14) Re: Leather coaming question by Otisgood@aol.com 15) Re: Merlin kits, was Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling by "Matthew Bittner" 16) Re: Flashback and Toko Strutters by "Matthew Bittner" 17) RE: The Lozenge Conundrum by "Matthew Bittner" 18) decal water holding tank by bucky@ptdprolog.net 19) Re: Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling by THOMAS SOLINSKI 20) Re: LAPCO 1/48 Fokker Eindekker by THOMAS SOLINSKI 21) Re: decal water holding tank by "Peter Leonard" 22) Re: R/C by THOMAS SOLINSKI 23) Re: R/C by Lyle Lamboley 24) Re: decal water holding tank by Ernest Thomas 25) Re: decal water holding tank by THOMAS SOLINSKI 26) RE: The Lozenge Conundrum by Shane Weier 27) RE: The Lozenge Conundrum by Shane Weier 28) Re: Merlin kits, and THE LIST by Zulis@aol.com 29) RE: decal water holding tank by Shane Weier 30) Re: Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling by Ernest Thomas 31) Re: decal water holding tank by "DAVID BURKE" 32) Re: New member by "DAVID BURKE" 33) Re: The Lozenge Conundrum by "DAVID BURKE" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 09:06:41 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Merlin kits, was Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E14@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Ken says: > Peter Leonard wrote: > > > > Lance offers the Merlin Salmson 2A2 as a reward > > > > I like this kit! One of the first WWI kits I built after I got back > into WWI. > Yikes! That explains the twitch............. Shane (who has one of these marvels. The decals are nice, but of the rest, least said the better) ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 23:14:25 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Merlin kits, was Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling Message-ID: <20000314231425.69674.qmail@hotmail.com> Ken, is it possible you are thinking of the Pegasus Salmson? Peter L ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:14:43 EST From: BEN8800@aol.com To: seaways-shipmodeling-list@lists.best.com, wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: R/C Message-ID: <1e.293ed67.260021e3@aol.com> Hey all you R/C guys out there. I have been out of R/c boats and airplanes for a while. My last recollection on frequencies is they have a group for airplanes and one for boats. And in these groupings you can select a number of frequencies. I am currently interested in the new Hitec micro system radio, very low weight receiver and servos, as I want to built one of the park-slow flyer airplanes so I can fly in my nearby small park. This radio however is advertised as having only has a 72 mhz frequency. Is that a frequency dedicated to aircraft models? Is this ok for this application? Ben ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 22:52:08 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: WW1 modeling list Subject: Flashback and Toko Strutters Message-ID: <38CEC297.15D8CD35@mail.telepac.pt> Gang, this has been addressed by others on The List but let me just say that it was no different with me: There's absolutely no way you can use the cabane struts of both kits (I wonder how you did it Matt?). I ended up building the cabane struts one piece at the time with thin rod and on the FB they sit too high and even if the rake is not correct, it's passable if you don't look too close but on the Toko they not only do they sit too low but the rake on the central inverted Vs is something that has to be seen to be believed. Has any of you finished a Toko strutter? LMK. Also, is it just me or FB plastic is harder than resin? 10 .3mm drills on the wings alone to get the rigging holes done (and I still and some holes to do on the fuselage and tailplane...;-(. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 23:11:13 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: vile thieverywasRe: Original photo woes Message-ID: <38CEC711.60A68A40@mail.telepac.pt> Peter Leonard wrote: > > I did once hear of an eight inch pianist. Could they be related? That's why pianos have the keyboard arranged in octaves Pedro (profiting from the fact that Captain Wright is on leave ;-) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 23:29:56 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Leather coaming question Message-ID: <38CECB74.88CABC39@mail.telepac.pt> Matthew Zivich wrote: > Though I haven't read all of the replies to this question, has anyone suggested > acceptable colors for the coaming? (I was somewhat surprised at the flesh like > color of the the NASM Alb. D-Va. leather coaming.) > Matthew Z. Matthew, I usualy use any shade of reddish brown that is available at the moment, but I guess these coud range from black to light sand... Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 23:32:34 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New member Message-ID: <38CECC12.1A023708@mail.telepac.pt> Otis Welcome from Portugal, Why don't you give future a try? wet the surface with future and then lay the decal on it. Apply some more future and let it dry. Works great for me. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 09:22:46 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: The Lozenge Conundrum Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E15@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Otis, > The AG and Pegasus decals are very similar in color. I'm > basing my observations about accuracy on the NASM Albatros > DVa book which indicated that a great deal of research was > done to determine the accurate colors for the five color > lozenge used on that restoration. The Pegasus decals come > closer, IMHO, to matching that particular reference than the > AG decals I have used in the past, although, there is NOT A > GREAT DEAL OF DIFFERENCE, and I will happily use either one > of them. In fact, I have ordered some more AG decals simply > because of price and the bad experience I had with the > Pegasus lozenge. To me, the Aeromaster 5 color upper > emphasizes the green too much, although I think the lower > looks very good. However, the lower lozenge that I have found > that matches the NASM book best is, surprisingly, by Super > Scale. I guess we'll never know who's "right", but I tend to > like the NASM book as an objective reference simply because > of the time, money and effort that went into the res > toration. ALso, there are, of course, scale differences that > alter the colors somewhat. I think that was probably what > Aeromaster was after; I just think they over(or under) did it. A pretty good summation IMHO. I'd suggest though that colours in photos (and printed) aren't a terrible consistent reference - my copy of the NASM book is much faded for example, so I wouldn't dare use it for comparison, though yours may be dead perfect. I'd love to know if any of the list members have seen both one of the Halberstadts and Stropp (has NASM got one, or is it at USAFM?) and can compare loz colours. The loz prepared for the Halbs is the result of much later and even more exhaustive research and I'd love to know whether they produced anything visibly different. > One other point about lozenge that I have never seen > discussed anywhere is a curious fact about its application I > noticed in the NASM book. The photos clearly show that the > lozenge was applied from leading edge to trailing edge (or > vice versa); Chordwise. Yup (Incidentally, if anyone must use the Eduard loz in their 1/72 kit, it's printed spanwise which may be appropriate for the other subject but not Stropp. Or Dicta Ira can be applied - either direction !) > however, they also indicate that the rolls were > applied in opposite directions each time, sort of, north, > south (or east, west depending on which way the plane was > facing). All the references that I have read with any decals > referring to the leading/trailing application indicate that > the strips were laid side by side in the same direction. That > is certainly not the case with the NASM plane. Anybody else see this? Damn. I never noticed. Mmm. Looking at lots of pics to try and determine whether the loz is spanwise or chordwise lately, and one of the markers is the repetition of rows of dark hexes. Not many of the pics are clear enough to be sure but I don't recall thinking any rows were reversed. Thinks. Imagine a cutting table with two rolls of fabric - one each end. Fabric is rolled in from each end and cut to length by two workers - leaving a central pile of alternating direction fabric which may then be stitched side by side to make the panels Otis describes. Meanwhile at factory B, the table is shorter. One worker rolls the fabric and cuts, leaving a pile with identical alignment. Stitch them side by side to give the usual orientation Just a theory. I have to catch a plane in a few hours, must take Mikesh with me for light reading. Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 23:55:55 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Flashback and Toko Strutters Message-ID: <20000314235555.7561.qmail@hotmail.com> Pedro, my take on the Toko Strutter is at http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com/sop.html though from the look of it you and I had the same experience with the cabane struts. A nice kit otherwise, I just hope it doesn't put off anyone who may happen to choose it as a first try at WW1 modeling. And I certainly hope the Toko range hasn't disappeared forever. Peter L ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:07:28 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New member Message-ID: Now that's a new technique! I've never heard that one before. I certainly use future beforehand to prepare a smooth surface, but use it wet like a decal setting solution? Interesting. I'll have to try i. Maybe on that Glencoe Albatros in my closet. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 00:08:10 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Flashback and Toko Strutters Message-ID: <38CED46A.34930E6B@mail.telepac.pt> Peter Leonard wrote: > Pedro, my take on the Toko Strutter is at > > http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com/sop.html > > though from the look of it you and I had the same experience with the cabane > struts. Great review and great looking model Peter. I wish mine will turn out 1/10th as good. > A nice kit otherwise, I just hope it doesn't put off anyone who may > happen to choose it as a first try at WW1 modeling. Absolutely, but I think there are better alternatives in the Toko range. Also as you mention, the fuselage wall was bent towards the inseide and I did bnot managed to fully correct this (altough it isn't noticeableafter fairing in the turtledeck with milliput and under a coat or two of paint) > And I certainly hope the > Toko range hasn't disappeared forever. > That makes 2 of us. > > Peter L > __ Pedro S ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 00:13:45 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New member Message-ID: <38CED5B9.D1BF6E1A@mail.telepac.pt> Otisgood@aol.com wrote: > Now that's a new technique! I've never heard that one before. I certainly use > future beforehand to prepare a smooth surface, but use it wet like a decal > setting solution? Interesting. I'll have to try i. Maybe on that Glencoe > Albatros in my closet. Yes, try it on an old piece of plastis first. It works for me all the time and no silvering at all. It's simply perfect. As the future dries it sucks the decal over or into whatever details there are, just like setting solution. Give it a try. After drying the surface might look crappy due to the differences in sheenon the places that were covered with future. A final coat of varnish will even things out. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:16:51 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The Lozenge Conundrum Message-ID: <4b.1e137af.26003073@aol.com> AFAIK, the lozenge on Albatri was applied from tip to tip, span-wise, at least that is what all the decal instructions I have ever seen have said. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:17:26 EST From: Otisgood@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Leather coaming question Message-ID: I used Testor's tan to replicate the coaming color on my version of the Stropp plane. You're right, It is much lighter than I thought. I've also used Gunze wood brown, Model Master leather, and other reddish-brown colors in the past. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:18:49 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Merlin kits, was Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling Message-ID: <200003150021.QAA10397@crow.a001.sprintmail.com> On Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:01:55 -0500 (EST), K. Hagerup wrote: > I like this kit! One of the first WWI kits I built after I got back > into WWI. Are you sure, Ken? They're talking about the 1/48th job. Blech! ;-) Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:20:03 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Flashback and Toko Strutters Message-ID: <200003150022.QAA12007@crow.a001.sprintmail.com> On Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:42:42 -0500 (EST), Pedro e Francisca wrote: > There's absolutely no way you can use the cabane struts of both kits (I > wonder how you did it Matt?). I ended up building the cabane struts one > piece at the time with thin rod and on the FB they sit too high and even > if the rake is not correct, it's passable if you don't look too close > but on the Toko they not only do they sit too low but the rake on the > central inverted Vs is something that has to be seen to be believed. Has > any of you finished a Toko strutter? LMK. On the Flashback kit, I only used the "inverted 'V'" part of the center strut. The rest was Contrail. Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:22:05 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: RE: The Lozenge Conundrum Message-ID: <200003150024.QAA14497@crow.a001.sprintmail.com> On Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:56:49 -0500 (EST), Shane Weier wrote: > I'd love to know if any of the list members have seen both one of the > Halberstadts and Stropp (has NASM got one, or is it at USAFM?) and can > compare loz colours. The loz prepared for the Halbs is the result of much > later and even more exhaustive research and I'd love to know whether they > produced anything visibly different. FWIW, I'm pretty sure I took a photo of the Halberstadt at the USAFM, and it's up on the site. Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:33:16 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: decal water holding tank Message-ID: <38CEDA4C.87D2E6D7@ptdprolog.net> With the recent comments about propagteam decals, and everyone's favorite lozenge I pondered: what do people use to hold the water that the decals soften in? I use a desert/fruit cup thing....wide at the top, fairly shallow, with an elegant little stem! Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:35:19 -0600 From: THOMAS SOLINSKI To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling Message-ID: <38CEDAC7.209B6953@home.com> Peter WELL DONE OL' BOY!!!!!! I feel the glow of your success 1/4 the world away! Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:44:16 -0600 From: THOMAS SOLINSKI To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: LAPCO 1/48 Fokker Eindekker Message-ID: <38CEDCE0.B1950ECA@home.com> And as I said three weeks ago thier site is http://www.lostauroraplasticscorp.com/ And they would like to hear from us as to what we want done including DH-10s etc Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 00:52:05 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: decal water holding tank Message-ID: <20000315005205.20774.qmail@hotmail.com> Mike, usually a saucer, but I have been known to suck 'em. Peter L ----Original Message Follows---- From: bucky@ptdprolog.net Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: decal water holding tank Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:40:35 -0500 (EST) With the recent comments about propagteam decals, and everyone's favorite lozenge I pondered: what do people use to hold the water that the decals soften in? I use a desert/fruit cup thing....wide at the top, fairly shallow, with an elegant little stem! Mike Muth ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:51:04 -0600 From: THOMAS SOLINSKI To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: R/C Message-ID: <38CEDE78.5946A4A9@home.com> Ben the responces are : > new Hitec micro system radio, very low weight receiver and servos, If it's a new radio from Hobby Lobby then there is no problem on 72 MHz. Ground operations are 75 MHz. And as far as the park flyers go look at my electric Fokker dr-I on the images. That came with the same HITEC three chanel unit and the S-80 sevo's weren't light enough If you are buying through a hobby shop ask them to get two "EXPERT" brand model 220s they are almost half the weight of the HITEC S-80' and 10 grams helps Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:55:18 -0500 From: Lyle Lamboley To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: R/C Message-ID: <20000314.195520.-128689.2.lyle.lamboley@juno.com> Ben, > Hey all you R/C guys out there. I have been out of R/c boats and > airplanes > for a while. My last recollection on frequencies is they have a > group for > airplanes and one for boats. And in these groupings you can select a > number > of frequencies. I am currently interested in the new Hitec micro > system > radio, very low weight receiver and servos, as I want to built one > of the > park-slow flyer airplanes so I can fly in my nearby small park. This > radio > however is advertised as having only has a 72 mhz frequency. Is that > a > frequency dedicated to aircraft models? Is this ok for this > application? In radios today the manufacturers specify whether it is for surface use, i.e. boats and cars or for aircraft, and their use is strictly for that application stated on the box. The 72 mhz range is what the R/C aircraft guys use. The Hitec line is great, I have one that I use in my Fokker D.VIII and it is one of my favs. Good luck with your park flyers, I hear they are a lot of fun-- Lyle ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:58:38 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: decal water holding tank Message-ID: <38CEE03D.3F9EEE10@bellsouth.net> bucky@ptdprolog.net wrote: > With the recent comments about propagteam decals, and everyone's > favorite lozenge I pondered: what do people use to hold the water that > the decals soften in? I use a desert/fruit cup thing....wide at the top, > fairly shallow, with an elegant little stem! I used to use whatever bowl was on the top of the stack in the cupboard. But after getting on this list and learning a few things, I've been using the skull of my enemy. Gee Robert, is there no end to the uses this thing has? E. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:54:39 -0600 From: THOMAS SOLINSKI To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: decal water holding tank Message-ID: <38CEDF4F.AF2D8F0D@home.com> A good stout coffee mug preheated in a micro wave to help keep the water warm Tom S ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:02:28 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: The Lozenge Conundrum Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E17@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Tom, > AFAIK, the lozenge on Albatri was applied from tip to tip, > span-wise, at > least that is what all the decal instructions I have ever > seen have said. Yeah, they all copied Superscales instructions word for word. And *they* presumably based theirs on the Canberra Albatros which had that orientation on capture and still does after recovering in the late sixties. However - Stropp *didn't* have spanwise fabric, so NASM correctly went with chordwise in their restoration. Inspection of the photographic record shows that both are correct though I have no idea whether there's some pattern (OAW versus Albatros, early versus late, lazy Hansie sewing wing covers versus energetic Hilda) which would let you choose which without seeing a *clear* photo. Another perfect example of a situation where we can look hard at the photos - then do whatever we like ;-) Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:04:54 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: The Lozenge Conundrum Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E18@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Matt, > FWIW, I'm pretty sure I took a photo of the Halberstadt at the USAFM, > and it's up on the site. Unfortunately the usual caveats about comparing photos apply. Unless you have a photo with them both side by side? Otherwise the (hopefully minor) differences will be lost due to different lighting and so forth. Not a biggie anyway, just curious (enough to look at the pics too! Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 20:05:45 EST From: Zulis@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Merlin kits, and THE LIST Message-ID: <13.297bf92.26003be9@aol.com> Lance writes: << " the Merlin Salmson 2A2" has parts thicker than a 1:1 Dreadnought, and small blobs of plastic for detail components like guns... and wheels,,, and rudder. Even in the deepest drought of OT kits, one is inclined to shake one's head, close the box, and tackle another project. >> I feel the same way about their Breguet 14.... literally, half of the parts are not recognizable the flash is so bad... just blobs of plastic. I have been told that this depended upon where in the production run a particular kit was made. If this is so, then I must certainly have had the last one to leave the factory.... Dave Z ps - I have received about 20 additions to the master list I posted yesterday. I will post the revised edition in a day or so when the additions stop pouring in.... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:11:58 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: decal water holding tank Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1E19@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Peter says: > Mike, usually a saucer, but I have been known to suck 'em. ...that'll explain the little fragments of chip buttie....... Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:15:36 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Zen and the Art of Plastic Modelling Message-ID: <38CEE437.77F88F95@bellsouth.net> Peter Leonard wrote: > no please, no applause, just throw surplus OT kits ;) Oh hell, now everybody's gonna have one. E. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:57:15 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: decal water holding tank Message-ID: <009601bf8e1b$7b9840a0$188aaec7@dora9sprynet.com> I use old yogurt or cottage cheese tubs. Small, flat-bottomed, and free (with purchase of yogurt, etc.). I sometimes add a drop or two of mild dishwashing detergent as a wetting additive. DB -----Original Message----- From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 6:37 PM Subject: decal water holding tank >With the recent comments about propagteam decals, and everyone's >favorite lozenge I pondered: what do people use to hold the water that >the decals soften in? I use a desert/fruit cup thing....wide at the top, >fairly shallow, with an elegant little stem! >Mike Muth > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:02:53 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: New member Message-ID: <009801bf8e1b$7d544880$188aaec7@dora9sprynet.com> Hey Otis, I lived for a few years in Murfreesboro, back in the mid '70's. Good to have you here with the rest of the lot! DB ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 19:08:57 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: The Lozenge Conundrum Message-ID: <009901bf8e1b$7e255420$188aaec7@dora9sprynet.com> >I tend to prefer Americal because I KNOW Glen Merrill has sweated the details and is one of the aknowledged experts on the subject. But that's not to say that the others, particularly Pegasus, haven't done their homework, too. > >Lance > I second that - I really like Americal lozenge - granted that you are patient and careful with large pieces. The stuff really sucks itself into detail when you add Solvaset - the only problem being that the decal adhesion gets SO good, that lots of little bubbles form and must be popped. This is not a fault of Americal, this is MY fault for not giving the model a good glossy finish before I decal. But I highly reccommend their products - as a matter of fact, I'm about due to re-order some 4&5-color loz sheets. Also, since they are printed in bolt-widths instead of full sheets, the dilemma of spanwise or chordwise wing lozenge pretty much sorts itself out without too many sleepless nights (now, the chordwise/45 degree arguement.....). DB ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2194 **********************