WWI Digest 2109 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: "raf" wires by "Harris, Mack" 2) Re: there goes another drill bit! by a1b73869@telus.net 3) Wing Drilling Jig by James Gibbons 4) Re: "raf" wires by Albatrosdv@aol.com 5) Re: "raf" wires by "Peter Leonard" 6) Re: W.29 Interior by bucky@ptdprolog.net 7) Re: Wing Drilling Jig by "Lance Krieg" 8) W.29 by bucky@ptdprolog.net 9) by fedders 10) Re: W.29 Interior by "Lance Krieg" 11) Re: W.29 Interior by bucky@ptdprolog.net 12) Re: New Czechmaster by KarrArt@aol.com 13) Re: there goes another drill bit! by KarrArt@aol.com 14) Re: there goes another drill bit! by KarrArt@aol.com 15) Re: New Czechmaster by "Matthew Bittner" 16) Re: there goes another drill bit! by smperry@mindspring.com 17) Re: there goes another drill bit! by KarrArt@aol.com 18) Re: 12 Squared MoS L by Zulis@aol.com 19) Re: New Czechmaster by "Bob Pearson" 20) Re: "raf" wires by "Steve Cox" 21) Re: New Czechmaster by KarrArt@aol.com 22) RE: Stunned silence by Shane Weier 23) RE: Wing Drilling Jig by Shane Weier 24) RE: Wing Drilling Jig by Shane Weier 25) Re: there goes another drill bit! by "Lee Mensinger" 26) RE: New Czechmaster by "Chris Banyai-Riepl" 27) hsp?, was, Re: "raf" wires by skarver@banet.net 28) Re: hsp?, was, Re: "raf" wires by smperry@mindspring.com 29) Do I win the prize for slowest Datafiles by Ray_Boorman@telus.net 30) Re: there goes another drill bit! by KarrArt@aol.com 31) RE: hsp?, was, Re: "raf" wires by Shane Weier ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:06:08 -0600 From: "Harris, Mack" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: "raf" wires Message-ID: I guess this is a dumb question, but what is a "raf" wire? Mack -----Original Message----- From: Peter Leonard [mailto:peter_leonard@hotmail.com] Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 11:45 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: "raf" wires Those of you into hsp as a rigging material may also like to try stretching extruded strut material to replicate rafwires. Choose the thickest section and round off the trailing edge before stretching. This would've been a good method for Ernest's N28, but he was having such a good time, and was so far down the road, I didn't like to mention it :) Peter L http://www.storks.cwc.net http://www.escadrille.mcmail.com PeterL@cwcom.net ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 10:22:42 PST From: a1b73869@telus.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: <388de9f2.2485.0@telus.net> I have never found that the real tiny drill bits work very well in motor tools - Dremels etc. They break with alarming rapidity. However done the old fashioned way by hand in a pin vice they seem to work fine. Ray >I suspect that #80 bits will always be casualties, and I buy them in large quantities. > >But by using .008 guitar string in a mototool, I don't use near as many as I used to, and get a smaller hole, besides. > >Based on the good advice I got here (from Shane?), I built a little brass and plastic jig for drilling wing-strut wire bracing holes with the moto-tool: > > . > :o. > . > >The "o" goes into the strut locating hole, and when aligned squarely on the wing, the surrounding holes guide the guitar string-bit into the wing at the proper site and proper angle to later receive the rigging. > >Does this help? > >Lance > > ================================================================= Internet service provided by telus.net http://www.telus.net/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:37:01 -0500 From: James Gibbons To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Wing Drilling Jig Message-ID: <01BF6739.431E01A0.jgibbons@vppsa.com> I was wondering if I could get a little more detail on the brass and plastic wing-drilling jig that was mentioned earlier. It sounds interesting. Is it used/usable for 1/72 scale? Sincerely, James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:38:14 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: "raf" wires Message-ID: <55.1498d33.25bf4796@aol.com> In a message dated 00-01-25 13:09:43 EST, you write: << I guess this is a dumb question, but what is a "raf" wire? Mack >> Not really - the List Goddess didn't know what they were, either. A "raf" wire is a rigging wire that has an airfoil shape in cross section, with the intent of reducing air resistance as was experienced with round wire cables. Used originally by the RAF in 1918, it became a nearly-universal fit to biplanes post-war. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:05:38 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: "raf" wires Message-ID: <20000125190538.84417.qmail@hotmail.com> Further to Tom's explanation, the acronym is for Royal Aircraft Factory wires, and as well as being extruded to airfoil section they were also cut to length and had the ends threaded. They were manufactured in sets each for a specific aircraft type, so if you broke one it had to be replaced by another to the same spec rather than cut to length off a reel. Peter L ----Original Message Follows---- From: Albatrosdv@aol.com Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: "raf" wires Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:44:03 -0500 (EST) In a message dated 00-01-25 13:09:43 EST, you write: << I guess this is a dumb question, but what is a "raf" wire? Mack >> Not really - the List Goddess didn't know what they were, either. A "raf" wire is a rigging wire that has an airfoil shape in cross section, with the intent of reducing air resistance as was experienced with round wire cables. Used originally by the RAF in 1918, it became a nearly-universal fit to biplanes post-war. Tom ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:37:46 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: W.29 Interior Message-ID: <388DFB8A.8E829B0C@ptdprolog.net> Lance Krieg wrote: > I have added: > under-seat and inter-cockpit fuel tanks and fill points > folding gunner's seat > extra ammo storage > map cases (2) and navigation kit > secondary floor compass - back 'pit > pigeon carriers > hand-held aerial camera What color are you doing the pigeons in? Lozenge? ;-) Thanks for the ideas. What are you doing with the extra ammo bins? Something like the DH-2 outside bins on inside? When the gunner's seat unfolds and he sitss in it, does he face the rear of the plane? (I've always assumed this, but kinda wonder.) Thanks for the info. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:50:02 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Wing Drilling Jig Message-ID: Mr. Gibbons wonders: "... if I could get a little more detail on the brass and plastic wing-drilling jig ... Is it used/usable for 1/72 scale?" I made a .030 plastic base-plate about 15 mm square, with a locating pin designed to fit into a strut hole - either under the top wing or over the bottom wing. Spaced around the locating pin are 5 holes: fore, aft, a single on one side and a double hole on the other. I cut small sections of the smallest brass tube I could find (.010 ID, I think) and epoxied these onto the base at an angle that approximates 45 degrees. These tubes serve as fairleads for the bit to guide it consistently in drilling the rigging holes. _____ | . | plan view: | : o . | |__.__| elevation: _\\____//_ | As mentioned, I use a mototool with a hardened steel wire as a bit - not a #80 which, as Tom points out, is too fragile for a power tool, even one cranked way down with a rheostat. I position the jig over each hole as appropriate and insert the spinning bit; if there are no double wires, then turn the jig and drill a second single hole as appropriate. There are still plenty of occasions when I need # 80 and a pin vise, of course; the broken bits are bad enough, but when they leave a chunk buried in the hole that needs to be dug out, it becomes a real nuisance. Will it work for 1/72? I don't see why not... the holes are still the same size, they just need to be a little closer together. Hope the QWERTY art work helps, and sorry about the long post. Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:47:45 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: W.29 Message-ID: <388DFDE0.9E5710A7@ptdprolog.net> A brief/first update on the Flashback kit and its progress. Most of the parts come off the sprues easily, although the gates leave a fairly consistent "bump" that needs careful trimming on all the parts. This makes for some irregular looking undercarriage struts. The resin cockpit looks pretty nice...close to the W.33 pictured in the Datafile. The help from the list on the rear cockpit should help since the kit provide little help here. Nice resin guns. The floats go together all right, but a little putty and a fair amount of sanding are required. So far two potential problems: lozenge and gun ring. I ordered the lozenge from Americal and plan on using the brown scheme. The sheet provided looks great, but only has 4 strips. (4 strips of blue are also provided, so the value is ok.) It looks like I'll need more than 4 strips for this one, so if anyone has the brown and won't be using it, I'd be appreciative! If not, I'll buy some more from Americal. Second problem centers around my ham-handedness with photo-etch. The gun ring is provided in photo-etch and I doubt I'll be able to use it. Any simple ideas on a replacement? Any after market stuff in resin or plastic? Anything where my lack of skill won't be a huge handicap? tia Mike Muth...sitting back, enjoying the snow in NE Pennsylvania and a self-declared day off from work. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:08:48 -0600 (CST) From: fedders To: models Message-ID: Is there a way to seach at Hannants for 1/48 scale WWI aircraft? peter ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:46:35 -0600 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: W.29 Interior Message-ID: Mike asks: "What color are you doing the pigeons in? Lozenge?" No pigeons, just the box they come in. Wicker, maybe with a dropping of off-white.... "What are you doing with the extra ammo bins? Something like the DH-2 outside bins on inside?" Yep. Exactly. There's a picture of such an arrangement on a Halb. Cl.IV " When the gunner's seat unfolds and he sitss in it, does he face the rear of the plane?" According to a layout I've seen of the W.33, he actually is facing front, which is how I'm modeling the W.12... but the photo in the W.29 Datafile would seem to indicate a rear-facing seat if you use the mounting step (always shown on starboard in the pictures I have of a W.29) as an index. Damned if I know... Lance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 15:54:37 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: W.29 Interior Message-ID: <388E0D8D.BD071054@ptdprolog.net> Lance Krieg wrote: > " When the gunner's seat unfolds and he > sitss in it, does he face the rear of the plane?" > > According to a layout I've seen of the W.33, he actually is facing front, which is how I'm modeling the W.12... but the photo in the W.29 Datafile would seem to indicate a rear-facing seat if you use the mounting step (always shown on starboard in the pictures I have of a W.29) as an index. Damned if I know... Lance Thanks. I knew I wasn't the only one confused on this idea. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:34:31 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Czechmaster Message-ID: <88.764429.25bf7ef7@aol.com> In a message dated 1/25/00 6:20:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, bpearson@rapidnet.net writes: << Even cooler is IM already has one for review. ... and note who did the illustration on it .. I hate him. . Bob >> ok, who dammit? RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:34:28 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: <57.10b8dfc.25bf7ef4@aol.com> In a message dated 1/25/00 10:24:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, a1b73869@telus.net writes: << I have never found that the real tiny drill bits work very well in motor tools - Dremels etc. They break with alarming rapidity. However done the old fashioned way by hand in a pin vice they seem to work fine. Ray >> I too tired of the breaking bit blues. But I also got tired of pin-vicing 8,472 holes to rig a Jenny. After that I started making my own "bits" from a piece of guitar string jammed into a piece of bamboo skewer about 3/4" long- just enough for the Dremel to grab. A serious pilot hole poked with a needle is required to keep this "bit" from skittering all over the place, but it sure beats the wear and tear on the thumb muscles that come from using a pin vice. Like everything, it DOES take a bit of practice, but the fear of going bankrupt OR breaking one's last bit at midnight is a thing of the past. RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:34:30 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: In a message dated 1/25/00 7:31:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, lance.krieg@amerus.com writes: << But by using .008 guitar string in a mototool, I don't use near as many as I used to, and get a smaller hole, besides. >> smallest guitar string I've been able to find is an .006- for the highest high E on a 12-string. For drilling, I've used any and all sizes from this up to maybe .014. RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 16:38:48 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: New Czechmaster Message-ID: <200001252241.OAA18331@raven.a001.sprintmail.com> On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:40:29 -0500 (EST), KarrArt@aol.com wrote: > << Even cooler is IM already has one for review. ... and note who did the > illustration on it .. I hate him. . > > Bob > >> > > ok, who dammit? Chris B-R. Wonderful illustration, of course! Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:48:39 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: <004901bf6786$533dc960$ab0556d1@default> > just enough for the Dremel to grab. DOH! I tried your method when you posted it months ago, but missed the part about chucking the bamboo in the dremel. I twiddled and twiddled till my fingers were sore and all I could think was that RK guy sure is a patient son if a gun. As for breaking #80 bits and leaving chunks behind, better in the model than in the finger ;-) sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:58:16 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: In a message dated 1/25/00 2:51:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, smperry@mindspring.com writes: << I tried your method when you posted it months ago, but missed the part about chucking the bamboo in the dremel. I twiddled and twiddled till my fingers were sore and all I could think was that RK guy sure is a patient son if a gun. >> Uh...yeah! I'm not quite THAT patient. I should also say that I use the little battery powered powered Dremel for this, the mini-mite or whatever it's called- it turns slow enough to drill efficiently, yet doesn't melt the plastic. What used to take all day with a pin vice (there's ALOT of rigging holes to drill in a 0/400) takes a few minutes now! RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:11:31 EST From: Zulis@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: 12 Squared MoS L Message-ID: <68.10c70e0.25bf87a3@aol.com> Len writes: << Scaleplanes is about 1/2" short on span and !/16" wide on chord, the fuselage is about 3/8" short in length and the elevators under sized all round, according to the Ian Stair drawings. The good news is the rudder is the correct size! Depending on your definition of 'smidgeon' I suspect this may be ruled out as well. >> A sixteenth I could live with, but by 3/8 and 1/2" in a 1/72 scale model, the thing just doesnt look right. I have put the MoS L on the back burner for awhile.... << The other vac is an Airframe which doesn't agree to its own drawing, let alone anyone else's. >> Gotta love someone who doesnt follow the pack.... :-) Thanks to everyone for the education on 12 squared. The knowledge base in this little circle is simply amazing. Dave Z nb: The Flashback Strutter, with the decals from the Toko to make the Russian No. 1136. First time messing about with photo etch.... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 15:11:56 -0800 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Czechmaster Message-ID: <200001252311.PAA03262@mail.rapidnet.net> Take a look at http://www.hannants.co.uk/cgi-bin/view.pl?v=CMR1112&p=1&d=n&c= Bob ---------- >From: KarrArt@aol.com >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: New Czechmaster >Date: Tue, 25 Jan, 2000, 2:41 PM > > In a message dated 1/25/00 6:20:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, > bpearson@rapidnet.net writes: > > << Even cooler is IM already has one for review. ... and note who did the > illustration on it .. I hate him. . > > Bob > >> > > ok, who dammit? > RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 23:06:34 +0000 From: "Steve Cox" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: "raf" wires Message-ID: Tom, FWIW I think they were in use long before that. In 'Aeroplanes of the Royal Aircraft Factory' Paul Hare cites a leaflet entitled 'A Note for Flyers of B.E.2c Aeroplanes fitted with RAF1A Engines, V-type Undercarriages and Rafwires' This was distributed to the squadrons, and dated 4 may 1915. Steve =========================================== steve@oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk http://www.oldglebe.freeserve.co.uk If I didn't spend so much time on line ‹‹ I'd get more models finished ================ ---------- >From: Albatrosdv@aol.com > A "raf" > wire is a rigging wire that has an airfoil shape in cross section, with the > intent of reducing air resistance as was experienced with round wire cables. > Used originally by the RAF in 1918, it became a nearly-universal fit to > biplanes post-war. > > Tom > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:16:13 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Czechmaster Message-ID: <47.108890b.25bf96cd@aol.com> In a message dated 1/25/00 3:16:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, bpearson@rapidnet.net writes: << Take a look at http://www.hannants.co.uk/cgi-bin/view.pl?v=CMR1112&p=1&d=n&c= Bob >> Just peeked......I hate him too. RK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:19:12 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Stunned silence Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1C44@mimhexch.mim.com.au> DB, > >I'm now possessed of a nice supplementary > >tax bill for $800 > > > >I can sense a glut of moderately priced second hand kits on > >the Brisbane market, real soon. > > > OUCH! Man, that sucks that they hit you for that kind of > bread! Boy, when > they get ahold of you, they really get ahold of you! > Combination of an error by my pay office and myself but entirely due to the incomprehensible mess that is tax law in this country. Even my tax accountant had to read the fine print appendix to a supplement to an addition to the 499th edition of the explanatory notes to understand. Someone needs to take a chainsaw to tax law round here - starting with the laws themselves, then working down from the politicians to the sod who found the error in my return ! (We have a new tax system starting here soon. Shanes prediction: It will be different but no better, since "better" would starve the politicians of money and the tax office of entertainment sticking pins in the innocent but confused) Shane (Temperature in the Gulf of Carpentaria today 38C==100F, and pouring rain. Well it *is* "The Wet". Think Crocodile Dundee territory, and that's where I am this week) nb mould on everything ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:40:31 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Wing Drilling Jig Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1C45@mimhexch.mim.com.au> James, > I was wondering if I could get a little more detail on the brass and > plastic wing-drilling jig that was mentioned earlier. It sounds > interesting. Is it used/usable for 1/72 scale? I came up with this contraption when I built the Biff. I needed to put double flying and single landing wires and single incidence wires around a lot of struts, and put them in the precise place at each strut base. I cut a small rectangle of brass shim, and drilled a hole in the centre the same size as the holes I drilled to take the brass pins in the ends of my bamboo struts. Around this I drilled a pattern of holes which works for single and doubled wires plus incidence wires in *every* position on a Biff. It looks like this . :0. . ...except that the holes are properly centred around the strut hole. I scribed cross hairs through the centre to ensure I could accurately align with the ribs Then I glued a plastic rod into the centre hole to fit the strut holes on the wing. To use it, pop the pin into the strut holes, ensure you have it the right way around for that strut position, and drill holes wherever required - always correctly placed and without ever skidding the drill bit Worked well, and is now part of my standard toolbox Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 11:35:15 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Wing Drilling Jig Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1C46@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Strewth ! > I made a .030 plastic base-plate about 15 mm square, with a > locating pin designed to fit into a strut hole - either under > the top wing or over the bottom wing. Spaced around the Lances version of my idea is *way* more sophisticated. That figures. I never was one to bother developing any brainwave beyond the point where it barely works :-( Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:15:26 -0600 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: <388E4AAE.B8773ED1@wireweb.net> Never tried that little dude. I'll have to look into that one. It makes a world of sense especially if you use some what worn batteries.. I will check on that. I have a Foredom with the table mount and flexshaft and the low speed "rear end" but that is to powerful for tiny drill bits. When a pro says go I go. Lee M. KarrArt@aol.com wrote > In a message dated 1/25/00 2:51:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, > smperry@mindspring.com writes: > > << I tried your method when you posted it months ago, but missed the part > about chucking the bamboo in the dremel. > > I twiddled and twiddled till my fingers were sore and all I could think was > that RK guy sure is a patient son if a gun. >> > > Uh...yeah! I'm not quite THAT patient. I should also say that I use the > little battery powered powered Dremel for this, the mini-mite or whatever > it's called- it turns slow enough to drill efficiently, yet doesn't melt the > plastic. What used to take all day with a pin vice (there's ALOT of rigging > holes to drill in a 0/400) takes a few minutes now! > RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:11:39 -0800 From: "Chris Banyai-Riepl" To: Subject: RE: New Czechmaster Message-ID: <000401bf67a2$ae453fc0$9313fea9@chris> > In a message dated 1/25/00 3:16:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, > bpearson@rapidnet.net writes: > > << Take a look at > http://www.hannants.co.uk/cgi-bin/view.pl?v=CMR1112&p=1&d=n&c= > > Bob > >> > > Just peeked......I hate him too. > RK > It looks much better printed out on photo paper, matted and framed in oak. Really, it does. :-) Chris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 21:48:13 -0500 From: skarver@banet.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: hsp?, was, Re: "raf" wires Message-ID: <388E606D.11F1680A@banet.net> And here's dumb-er: what's hsp? Regards, Stephen "Harris, Mack" wrote: > I guess this is a dumb question, but what is a "raf" wire? > Mack > > -----Original Message----- > From: Peter Leonard [mailto:peter_leonard@hotmail.com] > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 11:45 AM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: "raf" wires > > Those of you into hsp as a rigging material [snip] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:00:59 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: hsp?, was, Re: "raf" wires Message-ID: <008101bf67a9$92e3cd80$3e0b56d1@default> > And here's dumb-er: > what's hsp? > Regards, > Stephen Nothin dumb about that question. I don't know how it started, maybe because the sound tricks the ear, but HSP is supposed to mean heat-stretched sprue. It was pointed out buy someone on the list that it should be more properly refered to as HSS. I'd never noticed till it was pointed out. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:11:54 -0800 From: Ray_Boorman@telus.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Do I win the prize for slowest Datafiles Message-ID: <200001260312.TAA16358@smtpout.telus.net> Just received Nov/Dec Windsock and the Caproni datafile. Right about when I would expect it. Since my subscription is surface rate. if anyone else is waiting, it should be turning up right about now. Ray ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:19:09 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: there goes another drill bit! Message-ID: In a message dated 1/25/00 6:16:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, lemen@wireweb.net writes: << Never tried that little dude. I'll have to look into that one. It makes a world of sense especially if you use some what worn batteries.. I will check on that. I have a Foredom with the table mount and flexshaft and the low speed "rear end" but that is to powerful for tiny drill bits. When a pro says go I go. Lee M. >> The battery powered Dremel has really proven to be useful. I got mine cheap from a now defunct discount chain. Had it not been such a great deal, I probably wouldn't have bothered, but it turned into one of those tools that once used, becomes indespensible. For plastic model use, it's great. RK ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:35:14 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: hsp?, was, Re: "raf" wires Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1C47@mimhexch.mim.com.au> SP > > And here's dumb-er: > > what's hsp? > > Regards, > > Stephen > > Nothin dumb about that question. I don't know how it started, > maybe because > the sound tricks the ear, but HSP is supposed to mean > heat-stretched sprue. If you have some very old Scale Models (during Ron Moultons editorship) you'll see it called Heat Stretched *P*lastic. ....you see, it doesn't have to be sprue. You can stretch tubes, shapes (like RAF wires) etc. as well. But 99% of the time people do stretch sprue, and the usage stuck without the abbreviation changing Shane (aka "old fart with old magazines") ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2109 **********************