WWI Digest 2054 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Brad Hansen by Dennis Ugulano 2) Re: Latest Windsock? by Dennis Ugulano 3) Re: WWI digest 2053 by "Jim Landon" 4) Re: Brad Hansen by "charles t." 5) New Sopwith Camel by "Leonard Endy" 6) Re: WWI digest 2053 by "Jim Landon" 7) Re: One More before the 1st. by "Leonard Endy" 8) Re: New Sopwith Camel by "Peter Leonard" 9) Re: WWI digest 2053 by "Jim Landon" 10) Re: WWI digest 2053 by "Jim Landon" 11) Re: WWI digest 2052 by smperry@mindspring.com 12) RE: Finishing coat by Shane Weier 13) Re: New Sopwith Camel by "Matthew Bittner" 14) RE: Brad Hansen by Shane Weier 15) Eduard Nie.23 by smperry@mindspring.com 16) Re: Eduard Nie.23 by Albatrosdv@aol.com 17) Re: Finishing coat by Ray_Boorman@telus.net 18) Re: Eduard Nie.23 by smperry@mindspring.com 19) Re: Finishing coat by smperry@mindspring.com 20) Re: Finishing coat by Ray_Boorman@telus.net 21) Re: Finishing coat by "Lee Mensinger" 22) 1/16 th Alb D.Va by "Leonard Endy" 23) Re: 1/16 th Alb D.Va by "Peter Leonard" 24) Re:Brad Hansen by Russell W Niles 25) Superscale lozenge decals by Russell W Niles 26) Re: Finishing coat by KarrArt@aol.com 27) Re: 1/48 scale modeler tries 1/72 and doesnt go blind. by KarrArt@aol.com 28) Re: Finishing coat by KarrArt@aol.com 29) Re: Finishing coat by Albatrosdv@aol.com 30) RE: Finishing coat by Shane Weier 31) RE: WWI digest 2052 by "dfernet0" 32) completely ot by "dfernet0" 33) Dicta Ira finishes by "dfernet0" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:38:44 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Brad Hansen Message-ID: <199912281838_MC2-929F-B6E7@compuserve.com> Charles, Brad Hansen has been located and he is alive and well. I went over to his place of employment this morning. He's an engineer at a local TV station. He has been lurking around a little and is aware of all of us. He said he has started to review material for a new book or is that an update. It will be almost new when we look at everything that has been released since the first addition. His main lament was the number of kits and the price now a days. Of course when he started collecting you could still get the Revell Three pack for about $2. He is looking into the 1/48th but I will do everything I can to keep him away from that other scale. :-) He has freed up some time and whereas he may not build, he does have some more research time. He said he may ask our help with reviews and photos. Why would he want to do that when there 99 models sitting less than a mile from his house. I just don't understand some people. We spent about a half hour together and it was good to get back in touch. Just wanted to pass that on. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://members.xoom.com/Uggies/dju.htm Page Revised 9/12/99 "Every modeller will rise to his own level of masochism" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:38:42 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Latest Windsock? Message-ID: <199912281838_MC2-929F-B6E5@compuserve.com> >> Anyone > else still waiting? Seems like they usually show up sooner. << I would be worried. I've had mine now for at least two-three weeks. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://members.xoom.com/Uggies/dju.htm Page Revised 9/12/99 "Every modeller will rise to his own level of masochism" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 15:41:21 PST From: "Jim Landon" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI digest 2053 Message-ID: <19991228234121.25335.qmail@hotmail.com> DZ wrote: <> Good one! No, but I carried the model (in it's box) in the back seat all except for that first day. Jim (Look, I didn't even send the whole digest!!) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 15:46:08 -0800 From: "charles t." To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Brad Hansen Message-ID: <01bf518d$b66b7f00$3fba65d8@default> Dennis, Thanks for the update on Brad Hansen. Both my friend and I have his book and I often just pick it up for an enjoyable read....an update or new version would be incredible. He really started me on modeling WW1 A/C. Thanks for the info!!! Charles -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Ugulano To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 3:43 PM Subject: Brad Hansen >Charles, > > Brad Hansen has been located and he is alive and well. I went over >to his place of employment this morning. He's an engineer at a local TV >station. > > He has been lurking around a little and is aware of all of us. He >said he has started to review material for a new book or is that an update. > It will be almost new when we look at everything that has been released >since the first addition. > > His main lament was the number of kits and the price now a days. >Of course when he started collecting you could still get the Revell Three >pack for about $2. He is looking into the 1/48th but I will do everything >I can to keep him away from that other scale. :-) > > He has freed up some time and whereas he may not build, he does >have some more research time. He said he may ask our help with reviews and >photos. Why would he want to do that when there 99 models sitting less >than a mile from his house. I just don't understand some people. > > We spent about a half hour together and it was good to get back in >touch. Just wanted to pass that on. > >Dennis Ugulano >email: Uggies@compuserve.com >http://members.xoom.com/Uggies/dju.htm >Page Revised 9/12/99 >"Every modeller will rise to his own level of masochism" > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:42:58 -0500 From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: New Sopwith Camel Message-ID: Looking at the back cover of the new FSM I see that MRC/Academy have announced a new Sopwith Camel in 1/72d scale. No further details were available at the MRC web site. Len ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 15:52:25 PST From: "Jim Landon" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI digest 2053 Message-ID: <19991228235225.86546.qmail@hotmail.com> Tom Solinski said <> Thanks. I took pictures of it outdoors today, even though it's not 100% finished. I decided nobody would ever know anything on it was unfinished, just looking at a jpeg on their screen. Don't ya jus love how a jpeg on screen makes your model look perfect! <> Really!! Plain old rubbing alcohol. I gotta try that some time. Thanks a bunch. Jim ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:37:49 -0500 From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: One More before the 1st. Message-ID: <4bii6s07cpr45c2g2rdg1glfhrbpapj7un@4ax.com> On Mon, 27 Dec 1999 22:12:48 -0500 (EST), you wrote: > I have the AeroMaster sheet w/ Holtzem's markings that I will use. > Pretty straight forward scheme - overall silbergrau and no lozenge. > >Just don't drop it! :-) > Well I haven't dropped it..yet but I did have to retreive one of the struts from the trash can...don't ask and I still haven't found the wayward instrument panel... >This is definitely the WW1 model to recommend to all your non-WW1 modeling >friends who are thinking of dipping their big toe in the waters. Straight >OOB it looks just fine. > Agreed ! Len ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 00:00:29 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Sopwith Camel Message-ID: <19991229000029.78657.qmail@hotmail.com> I'd place a bet on it being the old Esci kit Len Peter ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Leonard Endy" Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: New Sopwith Camel Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:51:51 -0500 (EST) Looking at the back cover of the new FSM I see that MRC/Academy have announced a new Sopwith Camel in 1/72d scale. No further details were available at the MRC web site. Len ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 16:01:07 PST From: "Jim Landon" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI digest 2053 Message-ID: <19991229000107.9553.qmail@hotmail.com> Bob Pearson said: <> Another great idea, although in Colorado the humidity is usually low enough that if you just find something else to do* for a half hour it's dry. *like one of the things your SWMBO has on the "honey do" list. And pretend you think she's as important to you as your hobby is. <> Another great idea!! Where were all these great suggestions when I started building the Tommy? ;-) Jim ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 16:13:45 PST From: "Jim Landon" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI digest 2053 Message-ID: <19991229001345.80868.qmail@hotmail.com> Skippy said "You can also use rubbing alcohol to shrink the tissue, it evaporates quicker, is less likely to debond the glue (if you use white glue to assemble the structure). Also, if you have a lot of minerals in your tap water, you avoid getting water spots. I always applied thinned clear dope over the water- or alcohol-shrunk tissue though." EVEN MORE great ideas! I use either conventional model airplane glue or carpenters yellow glue for the balsa structure, so water works fine. But then we don't have hard water either. <> I heard of that just recently from another guy, but haven't had a chance to try it. I just used separate smaller pieces of tissue at the wing tips (because that's what it said to do in the Guillows instructions). Jim Who is unlike most men and always reads the instructions. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:23:54 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: WWI digest 2052 Message-ID: <004d01bf5192$fde23a40$3d0d56d1@default> > Tissue can also be applied to the structure "wet", (actually damp) which can > help you eliminate the wrinkles that sometimes appear at wingtips or on > curved surfaces My technique varies somewhat. I lay out a terrycloth towel on a flat surface. I wet the tissue thoroughly, usually laying it over the divider in the kitchen sink and pouring water on it. Next I lay it flat on the towell and fold a section of the towell over the flat, wet tissue and gently blot dry. Apply it to a doped, sanded balsa frame with thined white glue. It will go round all but the tightest curves and shrink drum tight and wrinkle free when it dries. It works best if the "grain" of the tissue runs spanwise. Jap tissue has a shiny side and a dull side. IIRC the shiny side goes out, (I got a 50/50 chance of being right). There is an article in a model mag I have floating around about using color printers to pre print finishes on white tissue. I have been meaning to see if I can get my printer to do loz. The tendency of inks to run requires some modified, low moisture covering techniques. Mostly variations of very lightly sprayed water, lacquer or dope. I have a beautiful Stick & Tissue D.VII kit I want to do. (Also wanna do a Gillows Bebe that fires Le Bottle rockets in flight. but that's another story) sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:25:00 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Finishing coat Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1B64@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Various listees discuss, followed by Tom S who says: > IMHO the OT birds would have been > satin at best due to > the lack of time and materials to fill in the weave of the > fabric and thus achieve a high gloss. This ignores the dozens of period photos with highly specular reflections. Dicta Ira applies in every case, but IMHO a WW1 aircraft which has been painted "flat" in the manner of a WW2 aircraft is at best poorly supported by the photographic record. Sure, the manner of application of dope will affect the glossiness, but even allowing for scale effect a flat finish looks lifeless and un-natural compared to 99% of pictures.(though a glossy finish as glossy as some seen in photos would look like a toy) Best pick a happy medium IMHO - a range of satin sheens up to a high semi-gloss and down to a slightly buffed matt, with the centre point right about whatever looks right to you. *Unless* you plan on competing, in which case you need to know if the judges know anything about WW1 planes, cos the WW2 fans will expect them as flat as my first girlfriends chest. Shane (anyone with the SE-5a datafile at hand, look at Page 5, one of Hurleys genuine WW1 colour photos. It's an SE-5a pictured in the Middle East, where "weathering" would surely dull the gloss rapidly, thrown dust and grit being as abrasive as they are. Everywhere the sun glances off it is blindingly bright, and the uppersurface of the wings show the reflected struts clearly. Almost any other datafile will show the same effect - I just happen to have that one on my desk) ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:23:07 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: New Sopwith Camel Message-ID: <199912290025.QAA28610@crow.a001.sprintmail.com> On Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:51:51 -0500 (EST), Leonard Endy wrote: > Looking at the back cover of the new FSM I see that MRC/Academy have > announced a new Sopwith Camel in 1/72d scale. No further details were > available at the MRC web site. Not new, just a re-release of the one Academy already has, I suspect. Academy has/had both a Sopwith Camel and a SPAD 13. Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:34:51 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Brad Hansen Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1B65@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Dennis, > We spent about a half hour together and it was good > to get back in touch. Just wanted to pass that on. Good. You've had a break, now back on the treadmill !!! Incidentally, I won't believe you made it unless I see pics of #100 on the internet before 23:39 Friday - and I'm on Eastern Australian Standard Time so that's about 6am Friday to you ;-) Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:57:17 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: "Multiple recipients of list" Subject: Eduard Nie.23 Message-ID: <006d01bf5197$a7f18c80$3d0d56d1@default> Well. I finallt got my SMO order exactly 7 days after I paid for 2 day delivery. The Eduard Nie.23 kit is rather a disapointment. The engine has no pipes, plugs or pushrods and the interior details are downright chunky, almost Auroraish. Definately not up to the standard of the all plastic issue of the Alb D.III (early) and not even in the same league as the MoS Type L kit. Still it is a decent kit and should build up into a nice model with a scratched interior and heavily detailed engine. sp E-mail smperry@mindspring.com Web Site http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/PWWIP.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 20:02:39 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Nie.23 Message-ID: <0.81df6db9.259ab7af@aol.com> In a message dated 99-12-28 19:58:42 EST, you write: << Well. I finallt got my SMO order exactly 7 days after I paid for 2 day delivery. >> It's called "Merry Christmas," Steve :-) Tom C ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 17:10:00 -0800 From: Ray_Boorman@telus.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <199912290112.RAA08688@smtpout.telus.net> For all sorts of reasons I would think that most if not all wwi era aircraft would have fairly glossy finishes which in 1/48 or 1/72 would be satin. Firstly just about all the pictures i have seen that were taken in sunshine show a lot of shiny surfaces. Take a look through a few of the datafiles and it becomes obvious. Secondly most aircraft at that time did not have long life-spans. One year would have been old for a sopwith camel. Dope is definitely not a non reflective finish, especially back then. Whilst some think the conditions these aircraft were built in as primitive they were quite the opposite, they may have been hand made but some of the best craftsmen were responsible for this work. Therefore the finish work would have been as good as they could get. Lastly Rotary engines used a near total loss oiling system with much of the mechanics open spraying off a regular stream of oil much of which got into everything and was either very corrosive or tended to delaminate wood joints and fabric to wood joints. Therefore the finishes were as good as they could get to make sure the aircraft had a reasonable life-span. So having said that a matt finish or glossy finish would not look right. Glossy would be closer to the finish but would tend to make a model toylike. Therefore variations of a satin finish would be best. Ray ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 20:12:32 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Eduard Nie.23 Message-ID: <007b01bf5199$c917f5a0$3d0d56d1@default> > << Well. I finallt got my SMO order exactly 7 days after I paid for 2 day > delivery. >> > > It's called "Merry Christmas," Steve :-) > > Tom C Well no, actually I just received an e-mail from SMO stating that the order had mistakenly been sent UPS Ground and that the difference was credited to my card. My apologies to SMO, I whined too soon ;-) sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 20:32:43 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <008301bf519c$9af10ce0$3d0d56d1@default> > For all sorts of reasons I would think that most if not all wwi era > aircraft would have fairly glossy finishes which in 1/48 or 1/72 would > be satin Therefore variations of a satin finish would be best. I sure agree with you Ray. Now that I am coating with Future rather than Glosscoat/Dullcoat, can anyone recommend a product that will mix with clear Future and make a satin like finish? sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:20:05 -0800 From: Ray_Boorman@telus.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <199912290222.SAA25471@smtpout.telus.net> I have mixed pollyscale satin, and flat finish with future. It seemed to work fine. As with any mixture try this on some scrap peices. I have heard that you should never mix future with tamiya acrylics btw. Not sure why since I dont use that brand, but makes me think that whatever you do mix future with you should experiment first. I have in the past dived in and wrecked paint finishes which is why I mention it. Ray On 28 Dec 99, at 20:36, smperry@mindspring.com wrote: > > > For all sorts of reasons I would think that most if not all wwi era > > aircraft would have fairly glossy finishes which in 1/48 or 1/72 > > would be satin > > Therefore variations of a satin finish would be best. > > I sure agree with you Ray. > > Now that I am coating with Future rather than Glosscoat/Dullcoat, can > anyone recommend a product that will mix with clear Future and make a > satin like finish? sp > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 20:40:18 -0600 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <38697492.F69F98F2@wireweb.net> around the engine compartment there was alot of oil fying in various directions.. The ground crew would wipe it off, and wipe it off, and wipe some more. It would look shiny because it was oily. Lee dfernet0 wrote: > Sanjeev > The Fok DVIII had a lozenge printed fabric covering in its fuselage, metal > cowling and its wings (principal and her little sister down the > undercarriage) were painted wood. > Sometimes pictures show gloss cowls, maybe because the ground crew kept them > polished. The wings had an uneven finish, because the wood was affected by > moisture and sunlight. Look at period photographs. Maybe a brand new Fok EV > had their wings gloss. The doped fabric fuselage would appear as satin, but > a weathered airplane would have looked flat, IMHO. > I hope that this helps. > D. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Sanjeev Hirve > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 11:25 AM > Subject: Finishing coat > > > What finishing coats go on a Fokker D.VIII ? > > Is it flat or gloss or semi-gloss ? > > Is it same for the fabric (wings etc) and the metal (cowling) ? > > I have a some Polly scale "Doped Linen" paint. Does it participate > > somewhere in this stage? > > regards > > SSH > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 21:59:35 -0500 From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: 1/16 th Alb D.Va Message-ID: For those interested Model Expo has the 1/16 Albatros D.Va selling for $120.00. I also noticed another add for the ICM 1/350th German WWI battleship "Konig" (sorry, no umlat) for those with a naval interest. Len (Who should be painting the Pfalz D.IIIa but got sidetracked...) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 03:06:34 GMT From: "Peter Leonard" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: 1/16 th Alb D.Va Message-ID: <19991229030634.7895.qmail@hotmail.com> Len informs us..."For those interested Model Expo has the 1/16 Albatros D.Va selling for $120.00." And also currently on Ebay at $170 with 5 days to go. I really must get some surplus kits together. Peter ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:06:39 -0800 From: Russell W Niles To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re:Brad Hansen Message-ID: <19991228.191817.-175221.2.r_niles1@juno.com> Dennis, thanks for the update on Brad. Everytime I think about asking about him, by the time I get to the computer, I forgot what it was I wanted to ask about. Must be old age. I too will be looking forward to his update to the book. Russ Russ Niles IPMS 4450 Too close for missiles....switching to guns. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:18:16 -0800 From: Russell W Niles To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Superscale lozenge decals Message-ID: <19991228.191817.-175221.3.r_niles1@juno.com> OK gang, here's something new to disect and discuss. I have started putting the lozenge on the D VII, and the first thing I did was the underside of the bottom wing. Everything looked good up until I started to slide the decal on to the wings surface. The decal actually began to disintegrate right before my very eyes. However, only in small areas, and mostly in the salmon colored bits. Wierd eh? Anyway, I made a quick trip to the local hobby shop (at 10:45 Sunday morning), picked up a bottle of Micro Scale's liquid decal film, dashed home just in time to change clothes for church, and headed out the door, better half in tow. After church I sprayed the liquid on the decal sheet, and left it to dry. Now the instructions say, dry and ready to use in 15 minutes. Well, I must say that they are not far from wrong. A half hour later, I cut the next piece for the underside of the top wing, and this stuff really works!! I have one small area that will need to be fixed, but that won't be to big of a deal. So, my question to the group is, has anyone had this problem with Superscale decals before? What causes it? These are quite old sheets, but have been packed away in the closet for some years, and not handled or anything. Comments, questions, outbursts? Thanks for any help. Russ Russ Niles IPMS 4450 Too close for missiles....switching to guns. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 23:26:43 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <0.2ba48fec.259ae783@aol.com> In a message dated 12/28/99 6:24:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, Ray_Boorman@telus.net writes: << I have heard that you should never mix future with tamiya acrylics btw. >> FWIW, I've never been able to mix Tamiya acrylics with ANY other kind of acrylic- the results have always been a bunch of boogery glops rather than paint......I have reduced them in MEK and tinted oil enamels, but that's just weird.......for this reason I have completely given up on Tamiya- I like to be able to grab whatever color I need, no matter the brand, and start mixing and painting. A wad of Tamiya on a pallet makes evil magic if it senses the presence of other brands. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 23:26:45 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: 1/48 scale modeler tries 1/72 and doesnt go blind. Message-ID: <0.6acdb71e.259ae785@aol.com> In a message dated 12/28/99 2:24:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, Ray_Boorman@telus.net writes: << The paint leaves a nice sheen once dry and seems to mix with just about all acrylics (Thanks Robert Karr for telling me that) >> I thought I heard my name! Anyway- I've just about decided that without Ceramcoat, life wouldn't be worth living- I use it for paintings; squirting it in wet plaster for dioramas; home fix-it touch up crap; pouring it out on sheet glass, letting it dry and making stock for things like leather belts that are easily sliced out- works great for large scale figures; practically everything but pouring it on cereal (BTW, a drop of yellow makes a very convincing miniature egg yoke) RK ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 23:26:44 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <0.23e3af28.259ae784@aol.com> In a message dated 12/28/99 5:34:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, smperry@mindspring.com writes: << Now that I am coating with Future rather than Glosscoat/Dullcoat, can anyone recommend a product that will mix with clear Future and make a satin like finish? sp >> I've had success with Model Master flat (in the bottle that says in tiny lettering along the side "New formula. Do not mix with 5000series acrylics". I don't know the proportions- I squirt some Future into the color cup, and pour out a hunk of the MM flat. It doesn't take much for a satin finish. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 23:46:14 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Finishing coat Message-ID: <0.fe3662c.259aec16@aol.com> In a message dated 99-12-28 23:30:11 EST, you write: << In a message dated 12/28/99 5:34:15 PM Pacific Standard Time, smperry@mindspring.com writes: << Now that I am coating with Future rather than Glosscoat/Dullcoat, can anyone recommend a product that will mix with clear Future and make a satin like finish? sp >> >> Mix it with varying amounts of Tamiya Flat Base. 60-40 Future/Tamiya will result in a semi-gloss/satin finish. HTH Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 15:26:07 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Finishing coat Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD1B66@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Tom says: >>Now that I am coating with Future rather than >>Glosscoat/Dullcoat, can anyone >>recommend a product that will mix with clear Future and >>make a satin like finish? > > Mix it with varying amounts of Tamiya Flat Base. 60-40 > Future/Tamiya will > result in a semi-gloss/satin finish. The Tamiya flat base works very well, but I urge you to start with a conservative amount and work up. It tends to make gloss very flat, very quickly, and if too much is mixed in sometimes leaves a white "bloom" in the clear reminiscent of the way Dullcote can react to humidity. Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 06:30:36 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: Subject: RE: WWI digest 2052 Message-ID: <001101bf51df$5c9fda00$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Pearson >the Albatros D.V is still going strong - even if Alison calls it > the 'sticky plane' (it is on the shelf nearest the kitchen and is a bit > yucky from years of accumulated grease.) > Then tell that is "satin" finished ;-) D. I bet that is tasteful too. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:09:42 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "WW1 modeling Mail List" Subject: completely ot Message-ID: <007701bf51e4$d329f980$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi I just finished reading the sad new that the Lone Ranger actor has died at 85 (he was born in september 1914, that makes him quite OT). Last week Desmond Lewellyn (James Bond's Q) died in a car accident. What's happening? Suddenly, I felt like we're getting alone against the evil forces... :-( D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:35:43 -0300 From: "dfernet0" To: "WW1 modeling Mail List" Subject: Dicta Ira finishes Message-ID: <007f01bf51e8$75d02120$4640a8c0@ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Now to get back On Topic: Yesterday I was thinking about a different approach to paint ww1 models. Many of us strive to make a model of an airplane as faithful as possible to reality, and the research involved makes a great proportion of the fun of modelling. But somehow, we're constrained to the few surviving documents of the era or to guess some details, i.e. the coloured band of Scho's 0-400 bomber. But what if we take a twist of this? Find an airplane wich only a few data is known but no picture shows its finish, for instance Albatros DV XXXX/17, that is close to serial number of MvR red tailed Alb. After checking some aviable references I guess that this particular machine would have belong to jasta 11 and maybe its decoration isn't documented as well, so it could have had a red nose (just like Santa's reindeer) but the rest of the airplane decoration could be done as fanciful as you'd like! Checkers, stripes, stars, skulls, letters, etc, etc. Even farther, You can find a machine whose location or pilot are unknown and do it of the jasta you like the best. Who can say "that's not accurate"? Create a ficticious pilot, a guy named " Lt. Walter Disneyer" and decor his airplane with a primitive Mickey Mouse! It would be fun, isn't it? D. whose head must have been exposed to the sun too much lately. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 2054 **********************