WWI Digest 1978 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Airbrush versus hand brush/ was: Nieuport 17 by "Michael Kendix" 2) Re: Brace of Nieuports. by "Steven Schofield" 3) Re: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) by "Steven Schofield" 4) Closer to narrow gauge by "Matthew Bittner" 5) Air International by Pedro e Francisca 6) Paint/Glue Turnbuckles by Ashley9862@aol.com 7) RE: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) by Shane Weier 8) Re: Back from Oz by Ernest Thomas 9) Painting the Nieuport 17 by BEN8800@aol.com 10) Loz and DVII by BEN8800@aol.com 11) Re: Paint/Glue Turnbuckles by smperry@mindspring.com 12) Re: Closer to narrow gauge by "PETER LEONARD" 13) RE: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) by "PETER LEONARD" 14) Re: Loz and DVII by "PETER LEONARD" 15) Re: Loz and DVII by bucky@ptdprolog.net 16) RE: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) by Shane Weier 17) Re: Loz and DVII by "DAVID BURKE" 18) RE: Loz and DVII by Shane Weier 19) Re: Air International by "Mike Franklin" 20) Re: Model shoots (was Re: Web Site Update) by "DAVID BURKE" 21) Re: Loz and DVII by "DAVID BURKE" 22) Re: Web Site Update by Dennis Ugulano 23) Re: Farman F.40 by Dennis Ugulano 24) Re: Model shoots (was Re: Web Site Update) by cfrieden@calpoly.edu 25) Re: Foreign Morane-Saulnier AIs by Mike Fletcher 26) Re: Loz and DVII by bucky@ptdprolog.net 27) Rhinebeck Dolphin by John Cyganowski 28) Turnbuckles.... by Ashley9862@aol.com 29) Re: Berg D.I by Dave Berry ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 13:40:37 PST From: "Michael Kendix" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Airbrush versus hand brush/ was: Nieuport 17 Message-ID: <19991118214037.7907.qmail@hotmail.com> >From: "PETER LEONARD" > > >>Michael.."I am also going to try Gunze Sangyo" > >You'll find them much of a muchness. I favour Gunze because the jar >screws >right on to a Badger, though I spray only infrequently , but >they don't >brush at all well IMO. I should have a local supplier in >these parts for >Citadel, I'll have a go. Peter: I heard G-S sprayed well. When it comes brush painting, I do that for the small bits like struts and details, and a couple of Aeromaster coats work OK for that sort of stuff, particularly for the wood surfacres which require a bit of dry brushing anyway. Michael ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:43:12 -0000 From: "Steven Schofield" To: Subject: Re: Brace of Nieuports. Message-ID: <004c01bf320d$ea494fe0$61a893c3@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: Len Smith To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 9:51 PM Subject: Re: Brace of Nieuports. > Scho, > > Just back from inspecting the above, magnificent job. Couple of points > worry me a bit,though. > > I realise you had to butter up Matt the Bittner, but don't you think TWO > Nieuports was a little over the top? > > Also, correct me if I am wrong, somewhere on your site you mention being > financially dis-advantaged (skint). And yet you go to enormous expense to > detail the interior of the Esci. > Using 2x4 timber for the floor is an absolute waste, aren't there any old > wooden pallets lying around in your local friendly Supermarket? Using an > armchair to make the seat is also a no-no, I am sure you must have some > empty beer barrels around the house which could be cut down. Using a steel > joist for the stick, well really! Doesn't your local Council provide street > lamps? I'm sure they wouldn't miss one. > Finally, using a blunt chisel is a crime! Sharpen the darn thing up on your > doorstep before using it again, I'm not worried about possible damage to > you, you can be repaired with some cotton wool and sellotape (or whatever > our National Health Service is using now) but you might damage the MODEL. > > I do hope you will not take a fence (offence?) at these remarks, I assure > you, and I mean this most sincerely friends, that they are intended as > constructive criticism only. > > Regards Len. No offence taken. Despite my crude cockpit interior, it still failed to overpower the moulded rib detail on the wings.Scho www.ww1.org.uk ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:56:54 -0000 From: "Steven Schofield" To: Subject: Re: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) Message-ID: <006301bf320f$d44ede60$61a893c3@oemcomputer> I've been using a cheap, Korean digital camera for all the model shots on my website from the start. It seems to have an almost infinite depth of field in bright sunlight, but eats batteries like a mad, ravenous battery-eating thing from the planet Duracell, that eats batteries. (sorry, I should have spent more time thinking about that simile.) White backgrounds work well for the PC10 jobs and psychedelic German planes, while neutral colours show off the CDL finishes. I've experimented with artificial light, as the winter months have approached, but it's a bit hit and miss, so far. Best of all, the 640X480 resolution hides all but the biggest blemishes. I've started publishing most shots smaller than this, which is very flattering to my models! Scho www.ww1.org.uk ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:08:06 -0600 From: "Matthew Bittner" To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Closer to narrow gauge Message-ID: <199911182310.PAA14986@raven.a001.sprintmail.com> Well, I'm getting closer to a working "Narrow Gauge to No Man's Land". I just ordered some track that would be appropriate, and I'm waiting for a well-known narrow gauge shop to re-stock the Baldwin loco. In the meantime I'm going to start looking for a "cheap" Bachman 'N'-gauge 0-4-0 since this is what the Baldwin body uses as its chassis. After that I'll have to start thinking about scratching some rolling stock. This is cool! I wonder how IPMS deals with "working" dioramas... :-) Matt Bittner http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:46:03 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca To: WW1 modeling list Subject: Air International Message-ID: <383481AB.E04DB280@mail.telepac.pt> Hi guys, anyone out there with a copy of Air International, March 78? TIA Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:13:48 EST From: Ashley9862@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Paint/Glue Turnbuckles Message-ID: <0.8ff047dc.2565e22c@aol.com> Hi guys, I followed the thread on turnbuckles (or blob buckles). I tried them last night with white glue and MM acrylic steel paint. My glue was thick and pasty but not dry. Here's what I found : 1) I could paint the mixture onto my rigging (.006 wire). However the mixture would eventually rotate around the wire and hang upside down. I ended up waiting for it to dry a bit and then used a toothpick and/or brush to get it back to where it belongs...equidistant around the rigging wire. Moderate success....but Im not happy. 2) While moving the mixture around the wire, of course it begins to dry. THe mixture turns "crusty". I didn't get a smooth finish. It looks like a turnbuckle, but up close it is lumpy. 3) I tried the same experiment using Krystal Kleer. The white glue worked better. Krystal didn't seem to mix well with the paint. 4) I tried to thin the mixture with water and then alcohol. I didn't notice much difference. Anybody got any hints that I may try to get better results?? Candice ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 09:14:55 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD19EF@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Scho, > > I've experimented with artificial light, as the winter months have > approached, but it's a bit hit and miss, so far. Why should this be a problem? In the winter the sky is blue and clear and the air is cool. In the summer the sky is blue and clear and the air is hot, until 4pm when the thunderstorms arrives and the sky is pitch black and wet and unfriendly. ;-) Shane ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:34:17 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back from Oz Message-ID: <38348CF8.12A3A0EF@bellsouth.net> Lance Krieg wrote: > What did I miss? Eduard had a big 70% off sale. E. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:40:26 EST From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Painting the Nieuport 17 Message-ID: <0.3308ef17.2565e86a@aol.com> I have been a Floquil painter for many years and probably should stick with what I know. For my Nieuport 17, I painted the model silver using Humbrol polished Aluminum and it came out quite nice. After painting I coated the entire plane with Future before adding the decals. Decals came out ok, but I am still not convinced that Future privides as good a base as a gloss clear coat. Anyway, I recoated over the decals and the aircraft again with Future. Now everything is glossy. Next, I wanted a flat finish, so I sprayed on a coat of Testors Lusterless Lacquer Finish. Surprise! The finish dulled the aluminum finish, streaked it and it lookd like a weather beaten aircraft. Anyway, after looking at it for a while I decided I liked it. It looks real WW1 so that's the way it is. I read, after I used it, that you should not use Testors Lusterless on metallic finish. Dumb me. However, I figured since I had it covered with Future it would be ok. I guess the Testors cut thru the Future and affected the metallic finish. Right? I guarantee if I had used Floquil flat finish I would not have this problem. Somehow I seem to screw up everytime I use Testor's products. Comments? Ben ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:40:27 EST From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <0.959d8817.2565e86b@aol.com> OK, now I am still puzzled a bit. I am so confused at this point with all the talk about the wrong loz decails in kits I may never do a loz scheme. However, what I am concerned with is the rib tapes. In the 1/28 revell kit ( although as you guys said the color is wrong) the decals include blue rib tapes which I assume go over top of the loz camoflage. So now you have camoflage in between a bunch of stripes. In the message received today about the new decals for the DVII they also have a sheet of pink rib tapes in addition to the loz. What am I missing? Does the loz scheme have to have these rib tapes "on top" of the loz camoflage. Please clarify. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:48:25 -0500 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Paint/Glue Turnbuckles Message-ID: <004d01bf321f$690d0860$960956d1@default> Candice: Try two coats. One coat just to coat the surface, not enough to hang down. When that dries paint a second coat and it will tend to be more even and not hang so badly. I had fairly good results with acrylic gel from the art store, (Liquitex). It's thicker than white glue. hth sp >Hi guys, > I followed the thread on turnbuckles (or blob buckles). I tried them last >night with white glue and MM acrylic steel paint. My glue was thick and >pasty but not dry. Here's what I found : > >1) I could paint the mixture onto my rigging (.006 wire). However the >mixture would eventually rotate around the wire and hang upside down. I >ended up waiting for it to dry a bit and then used a toothpick and/or brush >to get it back to where it belongs...equidistant around the rigging wire. >Moderate success....but Im not happy. > >2) While moving the mixture around the wire, of course it begins to dry. >THe mixture turns "crusty". I didn't get a smooth finish. It looks like a >turnbuckle, but up close it is lumpy. > >3) I tried the same experiment using Krystal Kleer. The white glue worked >better. Krystal didn't seem to mix well with the paint. > >4) I tried to thin the mixture with water and then alcohol. I didn't notice >much difference. > > Anybody got any hints that I may try to get better results?? > >Candice ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 15:49:16 PST From: "PETER LEONARD" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Closer to narrow gauge Message-ID: <19991118234916.60327.qmail@hotmail.com> I have a box full of O guage narrow guage stuff and look forward to being inspired. Hope you are going to post some pics somewhere Peter >From: "Matthew Bittner" >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Closer to narrow gauge >Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:09:30 -0500 (EST) > >Well, I'm getting closer to a working "Narrow Gauge to No Man's >Land". I just ordered some track that would be appropriate, and >I'm waiting for a well-known narrow gauge shop to re-stock the >Baldwin loco. In the meantime I'm going to start looking for a >"cheap" Bachman 'N'-gauge 0-4-0 since this is what the Baldwin >body uses as its chassis. After that I'll have to start thinking >about scratching some rolling stock. > >This is cool! I wonder how IPMS deals with "working" dioramas... >:-) > > >Matt Bittner >http://www.geocities.com/~ipmsfortcrook >http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/misc/ww1fr.htm > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 15:54:26 PST From: "PETER LEONARD" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) Message-ID: <19991118235427.74642.qmail@hotmail.com> Shane, if your bound for this part of the world for the millennium IPMS nats there are a couple of things you should know. This time of year in the old country it gets dark about 4pm in November and doesn't get light again until lunchtime February. The snow makes a mighty fine reflector though. Bring your woolies and a torch :) Peter ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 16:06:49 PST From: "PETER LEONARD" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <19991119000649.45919.qmail@hotmail.com> Ben..."Does the loz scheme have to have these rib tapes on top?" Yes Ben. The Fabric is usualy stitched to the ribs and the stitches are then covered with rib tapes. Most of us accept that the tapes were either blue or pink , and I would guess that eric has provided pink because the kit already includes the blue. An aternative to either of these was lozenge fabric torn into strips about one inch wide. Don't give up on it, no-one is trying to put you off and it's very characteristic of the type. I repeat, dicta Ira applies and there's nothing wrong with using the kit decals if that's what floats your boat. enjoy Peter ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:19:42 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <3834979E.4E3524A7@ptdprolog.net> Ben Usually, the blue tapes went on the upper surface of the wing, and the pink on the under surface. Of course, there were exceptions showing th exact opposite. And, then again, there is always using the lozenge fabric itself for wing tapes. hth Mike Muth BEN8800@aol.com wrote: > OK, now I am still puzzled a bit. I am so confused at this point with all the > talk about the wrong loz decails in kits I may never do a loz scheme. > However, what I am concerned with is the rib tapes. > > In the 1/28 revell kit ( although as you guys said the color is wrong) the > decals include blue rib tapes which I assume go over top of the loz > camoflage. So now you have camoflage in between a bunch of stripes. In the > message received today about the new decals for the DVII they also have a > sheet of pink rib tapes in addition to the loz. > > What am I missing? Does the loz scheme have to have these rib tapes "on top" > of the loz camoflage. Please clarify. > > Ben ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 10:24:25 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Model Photography (was Re: Web Site Update) Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD19FE@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Peter, > Shane, if your bound for this part of the world for the > millennium IPMS nats > there are a couple of things you should know. This time of > year in the old > country it gets dark about 4pm in November and doesn't get > light again until > lunchtime February. The snow makes a mighty fine reflector > though. Bring your woolies and a torch :) ROTFL Pessimist. Take your pics before 4pm in November and spend the subsequent 3 months drinking. Works for me. Shane (who has to rob a bank before the middle of next year. See you there. Meanwhile, in Sunny Queensland - it's cloudy.) ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:35:22 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <000c01bf3225$f87ec6e0$6a88aec7@dora9sprynet.com> O.K. Ben, here's how it goes: The lozenge fabric used on German A/C can be broken down into their different color schemes - each scheme having a fabric used for the upper surfaces and sides of the A/C and a lighter one used for the undersides of the A/C. As the upper surface fabrics were darker, and many had dark blue or dark green, you would find (a lot of the time) blue rib tape as it doesn't stand out as much. On the undersurfaces, you find pinks, yellws, etc. Pink rib tape was usually used on the undersurfaces. Also, remember that the leading and trailing edges of the wings and tailplane would be taped as well. As to the different tape colors, well, there was the blue and pink (salmon) mentioned. Also the tape could be strips of the lozenge fabric itself, and some A/C had CDL tapes. The tape was just fabric strips doped down to protect the stitching over the ribs, leading, and trailing edges. Looking at photos is a good way to tell if the tapes on the individual A/C you are doing is lozenge-fabric strips: they are very hard to spot. But it is hard to tell whether or not the tapes would be pink or blue: it appears that if a factory ran out of blue tape for the upper-surface and pink was handy, then pink it was. No sense in holding a neccessary wing sub-assembly just for want of a color of rib tape! That's my knowledge of the subject, enhanced by the gracious assistance of the members of the List. There are no absolutes here, and anyone who would tell you that your choice of color is wrong would be sticking their necks out pretty far. If you want a sure thing, you've picked the wrong neighborhood, Pardner. DB -----Original Message----- From: BEN8800@aol.com To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 5:44 PM Subject: Loz and DVII >OK, now I am still puzzled a bit. I am so confused at this point with all the >talk about the wrong loz decails in kits I may never do a loz scheme. >However, what I am concerned with is the rib tapes. > >In the 1/28 revell kit ( although as you guys said the color is wrong) the >decals include blue rib tapes which I assume go over top of the loz >camoflage. So now you have camoflage in between a bunch of stripes. In the >message received today about the new decals for the DVII they also have a >sheet of pink rib tapes in addition to the loz. > >What am I missing? Does the loz scheme have to have these rib tapes "on top" >of the loz camoflage. Please clarify. > >Ben ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 10:42:08 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <65C968E11318D311B0BD0060B06865CDBD19FF@mimhexch.mim.com.au> Mike, > Usually, the blue tapes went on the upper surface of the > wing, and the pink on the under surface. NOT that I'm claiming to know otherwise, but I wonder if this was true in very many cases. It isn't common to be able to see both upper and lower surfaces of the same plane, but when you do see pics of the same machine, and it is possible to identify the tape type, IMO the tapes on top and bottom are near as dammit always the same. Close inspection on a few photos of the LE of wings sometimes shows that a single tape is wrapped around the wing from TE over the top, round the LE and back underneath. This seems logical - no break in the tape right at the place you'd least want the wind to get under it. However - this is just surmise. But maybe, just maybe, someone, sometime, having seen both colours, *guessed* that there were pink tapes for under, and blue tapes for over, and said so - and no-one bothered to question until it had become received wisdom through constant repetition. Shane (who is bone idle, and therefore prefers to use one colour. I wonder if the manufacturers were just lazy, like me!) .. ************************************************************** The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 16:51:16 -0800 From: "Mike Franklin" To: Subject: Re: Air International Message-ID: <002001bf3228$30b03c40$65edfc9e@default> I got one right here, what do you want to know? Mike Franklin Bellingham, WA "No man is so hated as he who will drive the speed limit" ----- Original Message ----- From: Pedro e Francisca To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 3:13 PM Subject: Air International > Hi guys, > > anyone out there with a copy of Air International, March 78? > > > TIA > > Pedro > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:46:32 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Model shoots (was Re: Web Site Update) Message-ID: <004c01bf3227$8c5a3a60$6a88aec7@dora9sprynet.com> Yeah, I use Brother Ernie's method, and as you can tell from my pics in the Gallery, I followed them a little closer and got even better effects. As a backdrop, I use a light blue piece of posterboard, curved so it works as a surface and a backdrop. Because it's curved, I can position the model so that I can get different aspect shots without having to diddle with the tripod (Oh Christ, I know there's gonna be a flood of comments on THAT). NO, diddling with my tripod is NOT why I can't get a date. There. Happy? My latest shots suck because workmen removed part of the overhang over my balcony, so the light is too bright. However, it's supposed to cloud up over the weekend so I may get another shot at it. DB n.b. Hasegawa 1/8 Clerget engine n.l. 'Pink Flamingos' soundtrack - absolutely BRILLIANT!!! -----Original Message----- From: Pedro e Francisca To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Thursday, November 18, 1999 12:44 PM Subject: Re: Model shoots (was Re: Web Site Update) > > >Ernest Thomas wrote:. > >Oh well, may as well throw in me own .02 US sheckels worth here. > >> >> Neutral back drop (I use a piece of lt.blue fabric) >> Natural lighting (out side under the carport) >> 100 ASA film. >> Smallest apreture setting (f-16) >> Timed exposure (camera on auto setting) >> Self timer (so I don't move the camera doing a manual shutter release) >> Tripod (a must for timed exposure). >> White card reflector to light up undersides (I always forget this for some >> reason) >> Click here; http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/Images/Thomas/models.html to see my >> results. >> E. > >That's my set up too and it works fine. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:03:05 -0600 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <008c01bf3229$d7277b00$6a88aec7@dora9sprynet.com> >Shane >(who is bone idle, and therefore prefers to use one colour. I wonder if the >manufacturers were just lazy, like me!) Aha Shane! Not lazy, but more likely hard-pressed for material and time! I am one of those heretics who doubts the stereotype of 'German Efficiency'. Load of muck, that is. If they were so damned efficient, they woulda won the war. As I said before, why the hell would you hold up a critical sub-assembly just because you were missing a certain color of tape - and if it sped things up to run a single strip of tape around the wing, then I'm sure that they did that too. Upon my reading and research of the 'Fokker streaking', I found that the angle of wing streaks varied - from about 25-35 degree angles to nearly straight in parallel to the ribs. Why? Possibilities include sparing colored dope and sparing time (an angled line is longer than a parallel one, taking more time and pigmented dope). Uniform finish is an attractive thing to see in a line of planes, but can be a pain if you really need to rush those planes to the Front to be used in battle. I'm sure that they used what was handy, and would have used strips of the Kaiser's undershorts if they had been available (or von Hindenburg's, whose corpulence backside could have donated enough fabric to tape a whole Jasta!) DB ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:25:28 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Web Site Update Message-ID: <199911182025_MC2-8DB5-E7CC@compuserve.com> Uh oh, >> But now we know that it is some aircraft that has a build article written on it... << Looks like I gave away a big clue. Actually, the name of the model has already appeared in one of the messages on this subject. Let's see how good of detectives you are. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://members.xoom.com/Uggies/dju.htm Page Revised 9/12/99 "Every modeller will rise to his own level of masochism" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:25:26 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Farman F.40 Message-ID: <199911182025_MC2-8DB5-E7CB@compuserve.com> Tom, The Farman 40bis by Roseplane is a very nice kit to build. As you can see from the review, it is a very straightforward kit to build. You can find additional photos on my web site. Michael, Thanks for the compliment. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://members.xoom.com/Uggies/dju.htm Page Revised 9/12/99 "Every modeller will rise to his own level of masochism" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:27:26 -0800 From: cfrieden@calpoly.edu Subject: Re: Model shoots (was Re: Web Site Update) Message-ID: Hello all, Here is a suggestion for those of you who are shooting pictures outside. A photography article in the September issue of FineScale Modeler has a great method for creating a simple light diffuser. All you do is take a white kitchen trash bag and cut it in half so you get a single thickness of plastic. Just hang the bag so that it shades the model, and you are ready to go. Also, I would like to thank everyone for their advise in response to my first post. I am going to build the DML D.VII, and I will let everyone know how it turns out. -Chris Friedenbach ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:55:05 -0500 From: Mike Fletcher To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Foreign Morane-Saulnier AIs Message-ID: <3834ADF9.5C0D7A03@home.com> The sister magazine to ww1 aero (whose name escapes me) had a multi part artical of aircraft exported to japan in the early postwar period - that may clarify what was exactly received (I cannot find my photocopy of it at the moment - a variety of Nieuports were listed of course) -- Mike Fletcher ___ ., mdf@mars.ark.com |-\|^----! ; nieuport@home.com |--n--""*" http://members.home.net/nieuport/ icq=19554083 @ http://mars.ark.com/~mdf/nieuport.html While the man who is master of his soul is superior to those whom Ptah has loaded with his gifts; the man who obeys his passion is under the power of his wife. The Precepts of Ptah-Hotep, c. 2200 BCE ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:37:41 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Loz and DVII Message-ID: <3834B7F5.53C4356E@ptdprolog.net> Yeah, as usual you make a god point. I reversed the standard color scheme on an Albatros and it looked cool. Mike Muth Shane Weier wrote: > Mike, > > > Usually, the blue tapes went on the upper surface of the > > wing, and the pink on the under surface. > > NOT that I'm claiming to know otherwise, but I wonder if this was true in > very many cases. > > It isn't common to be able to see both upper and lower surfaces of the same > plane, but when you do see pics of the same machine, and it is possible to > identify the tape type, IMO the tapes on top and bottom are near as dammit > always the same. Close inspection on a few photos of the LE of wings > sometimes shows that a single tape is wrapped around the wing from TE over > the top, round the LE and back underneath. This seems logical - no break in > the tape right at the place you'd least want the wind to get under it. > > However - this is just surmise. But maybe, just maybe, someone, sometime, > having seen both colours, *guessed* that there were pink tapes for under, > and blue tapes for over, and said so - and no-one bothered to question until > it had become received wisdom through constant repetition. > > Shane > (who is bone idle, and therefore prefers to use one colour. I wonder if the > manufacturers were just lazy, like me!) > > . > ************************************************************** > The information contained in this E-Mail is confidential > and is intended only for the use of the addressee(s). > If you receive this E-Mail in error, any use, distribution > or copying of this E-Mail is not permitted. You are > requested to forward unwanted E-Mail and address any problems > to the MIM Holdings Limited Help Desk. > E-Mail: helpdesk@mim.com.au or phone: Australia 07 3833 8042. > ************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:14:21 -0500 From: John Cyganowski To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Rhinebeck Dolphin Message-ID: <3834C08D.10A2@worldnet.att.net> As RK mentioned - they crunched it a while ago. The rebuilt wings have been hanging on the wall for a few years as well. However, when I went back this Sept. the fuselage is now mostly rebuilt. I'd say they might fly it again in the next year or two. Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:32:46 EST From: Ashley9862@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Turnbuckles.... Message-ID: <0.ca1bb588.25661ede@aol.com> Well....the advice I got from you guys was..put a second coat on!! Well that worked very nicely.....now I have my smooth finish and more symmetrical shape. I have to learn....patience Candice...patience. Thanks All ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 23:07:38 -0500 From: Dave Berry To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Berg D.I Message-ID: <3834CD0A.96676068@total.net> smperry@mindspring.com wrote: > > I don't have the Part set for the Berg, but where can you find ritght size > rings to use as tires for the Part wire wheels? > sp > > I have used a pair of dividers to cut rings from card stock, you can get any size you want, I just shape them with a sharp blade, sand, glue and viola! I did it on my DH2 if 1/72 Dave Berry ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1978 **********************