WWI Digest 1631 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Rigging by James Gibbons 2) Re: Imrie Book on Ebay by Chris Cato 3) More on techniques by BEN8800@aol.com 4) Re: Rigging by "Sandy Adam" 5) Re: Rigging by "Lance Krieg" 6) Re: Rigging by BEN8800@aol.com 7) Pilots or not by BEN8800@aol.com 8) Aircraft Factories by BEN8800@aol.com 9) Re: Rigging by BEN8800@aol.com 10) Re: Rigging by "Sandy Adam" 11) Re: More on techniques by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 12) Re: Aircraft Factories by "Sandy Adam" 13) Re: Rigging by "Lance Krieg" 14) Re: Rigging by "Bill Neill" 15) Re: More on techniques by "Mark Shanks" 16) RE: Pilots or not by "Diego Fernetti" 17) Re: More on techniques by "Mark Shanks" 18) Re: More on techniques by "Bill Neill" 19) Engine by "Landon, James D" 20) RE: More on techniques by "Diego Fernetti" 21) Re: WWI Modeling Extravaganza by KarrArt@aol.com 22) Re: Italian Medal Winner Question by Len Smith 23) Re: Pegasus Roland DII by Len Smith 24) 55 Squadron. by Len Smith 25) Drills. by Len Smith 26) Re: Rigging by Allan Wright 27) Re: Rigging by "Mark L. Shannon" 28) Re: This kit should come with a warning label by Mike Fletcher 29) Re: Pilots or not by David & Carol Fletcher 30) Re: Imrie Book on Ebay by "Paul G." 31) FBA and Anatra photos. by Len Smith 32) Re: Imrie Book on Ebay by "Bob Pearson" 33) Re: Colors by "Bill Neill" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 10:33:02 -0400 From: James Gibbons To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Rigging Message-ID: <01BEB263.7567DCC0.jgibbons@vppsa.com> Sandy, No problem posting to the group... Its just been really busy so I was trying to keep posts down but if multiple people are interested it certainly makes sense. I liked your description! Very helpful! One last question (s)... Do you make any attempt to angle the hole when you drill through the wing or do you just drill straight through? Also... what size drill bit are you using? Thanks again, James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:50:12 -0400 From: Chris Cato To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Imrie Book on Ebay Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.19990609105012.00c94ec0@mail.connix.com> At 08:57 AM 6/9/99 -0400, you wrote: > >> >Mike enquired: >> > >> ><< Is the Fokker Triplane book by Alex Imrie still available? How much >is it >> > >worth. A mint condition issue is >> > >on Ebay right now and the bid is up to $42.00.... >> > > >> > >If I can purchase this book elsewhere cheaper, I wont be bidding. >Really >> > >do want this one, right? >> >> >> >> As of this afternoon, the e-bay bid was $62! Ouch! >> >I think I'll try to find this one in another venue. I have not searched >the web much for used book >stores.....anyone out there have some favorite URLs? > >Mike Dicianna >"Der Rote Modellflugzeugbauer" > Mike, I looked at my copy of the book this morning - I purchased it from Tennant's books for a grand total of $26.00 in January. It looks like a new copy although I can't be for sure. I don't have a url or address handy but you might want to search through: http://www.abebooks.com Good Luck! Chris Cato tcato@connix.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:08:31 EDT From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: More on techniques Message-ID: <1ccf435a.248fdd6f@aol.com> Those of you as experts on airbrushing. If you have a wing with a different color on top and bottom of the wing, do you dispense with masking and just spray the top color, then the bottom color holding the wings perpendicular to the airbrush flow, then maybe if necessary touch up the edge? Thats the way I have done it with good success. The touch up of the edges is not always required, depends on how the two colors blend at the edges. I don't think it is necessary to have a sharp edge between the two colors. A blending seems to look ok. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 16:14:58 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <010801beb28a$d7ecbd80$35e8b094@sandyada> >One last question (s)... Do you make any attempt to angle the hole when >you drill through the wing or do you just drill straight through? Usually straight - unless there is a capping plate or similar that I will hide exit holes under. >what size drill bit are you using? I periodically buy a box of micro drill bits. (Cost about 8 pounds here.) I always start with the finest for rigging holes, but they are very fragile and snap rather easily. As the smallest ones disappear I move to next larger size etc etc . When I feel the holes are too big, and need too much filling, I buy a new box of bits! HTH Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:30:23 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: , Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: I am new to the group, but am a madly obsessed 1/48 modeler for many, many years. I use monofilament and have had exactly the experiences Sandy describes, including thousands of broken #80 bits. Question: what technique does anyone use for doubled flying wires? The monofilament is too fine to show satisfactorily when two strands are inserted in a single hole, and I find it impossible to drill two hole a consistent distance apart. Lance Krieg (515) 242-4525 ULK@Amerus.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:26:09 EDT From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: When you guys drill a hole thru the "wings" for rigging, doesn't that leave a defect in your paint job on top of the wing, or does your touch up of the hole solve the problem? I guess I am asking why you don't feet the rigging thru the top of the wing struts and not thru the wing itself. Just curious why modelers do things as they do. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:26:13 EDT From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Pilots or not Message-ID: Gee, I'm just full of questions. How many of you put a pilot in the cockpit (primarily to show scale since everyone knows the size of a man). If not, is it because it obscures the cockpit detail? I ask this question because as a ship modeler also, I always put a few figures on deck. With varying scales of models, the figure is the only guideline visually for scale. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:32:32 EDT From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Aircraft Factories Message-ID: <6b165072.248fe310@aol.com> I have both the Crowwod books on the Royal Aircraft Factory and Sopwith. How many other manufacturers were there in Britain during WW 1? Ben ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 11:36:40 EDT From: BEN8800@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: In a message dated 6/9/99 11:29:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, lance.krieg@AMERUS.COM writes: << Question: what technique does anyone use for doubled flying wires? The monofilament is too fine to show satisfactorily when two strands are inserted in a single hole, and I find it impossible to drill two hole a consistent distance apart. >> Just a thought, I would rig both wires in a single hole then at the very ends insert a spacer, like a small piede of the rigging line to spread the two wires. Glop the end with super glue so you really can't see the spacer. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 16:46:40 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <011e01beb28f$46b224e0$35e8b094@sandyada> >When you guys drill a hole thru the "wings" for rigging, doesn't that leave a >defect in your paint job on top of the wing, or does your touch up of the >hole solve the problem? I paint and decal the outer wing surfaces AFTER rigging. > >I guess I am asking why you don't feet the rigging thru the top of the wing >struts and not thru the wing itself. To my eye that doesn't look like the real thing - the wires usually attached to multi-pronged cleats which sat a little out from the base of the strut. Besides, getting two flying wires and an incidence wire through a 1/48 strut at right angles would be pretty hair-raising stuff - and the alternative of wrapping the wire round the outside of the strut is just not aesthetically acceptable IMHO. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:50:03 -0500 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: More on techniques Message-ID: >If you have a wing with a different >color on top and bottom of the wing, do you dispense with masking and just >spray the top color, then the bottom color holding the wings perpendicular to >the airbrush flow, then maybe if necessary touch up the edge? I normally do some masking on the side of the wing that was painted first. This prevents any fine overspray from the final color, such as when using CDL and PC-10 colors--it can show up like a sore thumb. I hardly ever add pilots to my aircraft--I just can't paint a figure that looks real even if my life depended on it! Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 16:51:38 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Aircraft Factories Message-ID: <012f01beb28f$f73892e0$35e8b094@sandyada> >I have both the Crowwod books on the Royal Aircraft Factory and Sopwith. How >many other manufacturers were there in Britain during WW 1? A lot! If you only consider designing manufacturers there were plenty - I can think of twenty or thirty without even trying - but if you count all the manufacturers who built other people's designs - like Boulton-Paul, Ruston-Proctor, Beardmore, Austin, Robeys etc - there must have been hundreds! Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:54:15 -0500 From: "Lance Krieg" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: I always drill the hole, insert the rigging, fix the hole BEFORE I paint the top of the top wing. Then mask off the previously painted bottom of the top wing, trapping all the monofilament underneath the mask. When the mask comes off for final rigging, the mono strands are fished through the appropriate hole in the bottom wing and super-glued tight (It was a pretty scary mess on Aeroclub's FE2b). Only after everything else is done do I clip the rigging off at the surface of the bottom wing, and repair these underside holes. Lance Krieg (515) 242-4525 ULK@Amerus.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 08:56:57 -0700 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <007b01beb291$23518660$4916c0d8@bill> I drill a somewhat larger hole, and position the mono so that one strand is on each side of the hole (and the strands are not twisted!) before CA in the hole. Bill Neill > Question: what technique does anyone use for doubled flying wires? The monofilament is too fine to show satisfactorily when two strands are inserted in a single hole, and I find it impossible to drill two hole a consistent distance apart. > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 08:57:16 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: More on techniques Message-ID: <199906091601.JAA24851@elvis.fltdyn.com> Ben asks: > Those of you as experts on airbrushing. If you have a wing with a different > color on top and bottom of the wing, do you dispense with masking and just > spray the top color, then the bottom color holding the wings perpendicular to > the airbrush flow, then maybe if necessary touch up the edge? Thats the way I > have done it with good success. The touch up of the edges is not always > required, depends on how the two colors blend at the edges. I don't think it > is necessary to have a sharp edge between the two colors. A blending seems to > look ok. I suppose we could get into all sorts of theological discussions here, depending on scale and subject. My opinion is that, in the absence of a good photograph of your subject, use your own artistic judgement. Generally, the color division should be sharply defined, but who knows what touch-ups and weathering would do? (You could simulate a nice crust of bugs on the leading edge and avoid taking sides, but who'd like *that*? ;-) Too diffuse a division is likely to be realistic, but what you'd get by the technique you describe should be acceptable. (I personally mask the bottom of the wing on WWI subjects - I defer to the list experten for their approach.) While we're at it: I have 6 years on the USAF flightline, and 9 years at McDonnell (in St. Louis, not that money-losing outfit in Long Beach) under my belt, and I think I can speak to "color", scale and otherwise. Basically - blind adherence to some "specified" or "standard" color is just plain wrong-headed. Any given color WILL look lighter or darker than a "color chip", depending on distance and atmospheric condition. Weathering and maintenance will add variety to a monochromatic appearance. "Official" paint may not always be available, and the application technique, underlying primer, and material will affect the final appearance. Jerk-offs who patrol the contest benches giving pronouncements on "accuracy" of any given color should be ignored (if not soundly horsewhipped, dipped in Dio-Sol, and set aflame). My rule of thumb - follow the basic premises, find a color that approximates the "specified", add 10-20% white (or my preference, a light buff, like Humbrol's old buff or Floquil "Antique White") for weathering/chalking/"scale", and develop some sense of what effects actual USE has on an aircraft by going to airshows. (Museums are nice for details, but these are usually well-cleaned machines on display.) Mark, stepping off of his soap box and donning asbestos trou..... mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:11:36 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Pilots or not Message-ID: <002401beb1c9$95c96820$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi Ben, I used to put pilots because I liked to do a figure besides painting a "machine" finish specially in OT stuff. And as you say, it simplifies the interior detailing. But since I felt that I was prepared to do something more challenging I like to research and detail cockpits, so pilot figures should stay out. An option is using crew figures outside the plane, carrying stuff or so. In 1/48 there's a wide variety of aftermarket figures, but in 1/72 we should stay with the old soft plastic dudes from Airfix or the expensive Preiser that needs to be modified. The cheap alternative here is modify the provided pilot figure to a standing position. I did this on my 1/48 Hawker Fury pilot figure (don't tell anyone I did something in the Dark Scale) but I've never obtained good results in 1/72, where is too dificult to maintain proportions of the new limbs. D. -----Mensaje original----- De: BEN8800@aol.com Para: Multiple recipients of list Fecha: Miércoles, 09 de Junio de 1999 12:42 p.m. Asunto: Pilots or not >Gee, I'm just full of questions. How many of you put a pilot in the cockpit >(primarily to show scale since everyone knows the size of a man). If not, is >it because it obscures the cockpit detail? > >I ask this question because as a ship modeler also, I always put a few >figures on deck. With varying scales of models, the figure is the only >guideline visually for scale. > >Ben > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 09:12:12 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: More on techniques Message-ID: <199906091616.JAA25172@elvis.fltdyn.com> Some silly bugger wrote: > Too diffuse a division is likely to be realistic when of course I meant UNrealistic. Sorry! Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 09:24:05 -0700 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: More on techniques Message-ID: <00ac01beb294$81b55080$4916c0d8@bill> I don't think that colors change on a simple way with distance. Yes, generally everything gets a blue/grey cast, but some colors (yellow for example) are affected less than others. I maybe need to take art lessons to get a better grip on this. Painters have got this organised already. Bill Neill > "standard" color is just plain wrong-headed. Any given color WILL > look lighter or darker than a "color chip", depending on distance and > atmospheric condition. Weathering and maintenance will add variety to > a monochromatic appearance. "Official" paint may not always be > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 10:24:33 -0600 From: "Landon, James D" To: "'Art Groll'" , Subject: Engine Message-ID: <98B98E951BA0D1119A590000F8045A47030A2EE2@emss02m05.ems.lmco.com> Check this out. I am very proud of this. Let me know what you think. http://www.freeyellow.com/members6/titanman/page36.html (feel free to surf the rest of my web site too) Jim Landon, Staff Engineer, Lockheed Martin Astronautics Div. Launch Systems Dept., Electrical Systems Design Group Phone: (303) 971-1038, Fax: (303) 977-9738 or 977-8323 E-mail: James.D.Landon@lmco.com WWW: http://www.freeyellow.com/members6/landoni/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 13:34:46 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: More on techniques Message-ID: <00c001beb1cc$d2076fa0$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> -----Mensaje original----- De: Bill Neill >I maybe need to take art lessons to get a better grip on this. Painters have >got this organised already. Not at all. The general rule is that atmosphere isn't transparent 100%, but the natural enviroment isn't always the same and the artist can manage this in favor of the feel he wants to express. Mountains look blue in the distance, but there's no general rule on the percentage of light blue that Leonardo added to the official "berg schwartz-grun" behind Mona Lisa's portrait. D. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 12:41:34 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI Modeling Extravaganza Message-ID: In a message dated 6/8/99 8:47:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, karljuelch@earthlink.net writes: << Lou Baumbach, whose work may be familiar to readers of Windsock, where his Brisfit and Gotha were pictured several issues ago. >> Hey Shane W.........we have to track this guy down and...uh..."rearrange" his fingers. If we don't guard our territory, who will? Brisfit and Gotha indeed..... Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 99 15:22:15 GMT From: Len Smith To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Italian Medal Winner Question Message-ID: <990609152215.n0001280.lensmith@mail.clara.net> >Hi list, > >A fellow at my IPMS chapter knows someone in Italy who won a Silver Medal >flying during WWI. He'd like to have a guess as to what sort of AC was >flown for a modeling project. Here is his question: > >******************** >Kevin: > >I was able to look up the squadron of the Silver Medal winner from my dad's home >town. >He was with the 118 Squadriglia as an observer and the citation is for service >between >Aug 1917 - Oct 1918. > >Any ideas what airplane this squadron was flying?? > >Thanks in advance, > >Vince Pugliese >********************** > >Can anyone help me out with an answer? My initial reaction was to say the >guy was probably flying in a Nieuport or SPAD 2-seater (I don't know why!). >However, I now think it was more likely to be a Caprioni or Voison. I have >no info on Italian Squadriglia compositions. Any guesses or informed >opinions? > >Thanks, >Kevin Barrett. > >Kevin, Kenneth Munson's book Bombers 1914-19 illustrates a S.A.M.L. S2 of 118a Squadriglia, Corpo Aeronautica Militaire, Middle East, circa late 1917. This is the only reference that I can find, there is not much available on Italian aircraft, until FMP or someone else helps out. If you want to build one, a vacform is available by Joystick from Aeroclub in UK and maybe elsewere in USA. (1/72 naturally!) HTH. Happy modelling Len. > > > Len Smith http://home.clara.net/lensmith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 99 15:56:30 GMT From: Len Smith To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pegasus Roland DII Message-ID: <990609155630.n0001284.lensmith@mail.clara.net> Dennis writes Snip > > He only makes between >2000 to 3000 of each run and your kit may be near the end. >> > As I recall, the biggest problem with the kit was getting the >interior to fit. All Pegasus kits are thick in the sides. That is >unfortunately the nature of the beast in short run kits. > Dennis, it is even less than that, he only makes 1500 of each kit! I spoke to Chris Gannon at last years UK Nationals about the thickness of the sides and he said it depended on the size of the part being moulded (or even molded!) , although he was trying to improve it. Bearing on this, his Macchi M5 kit has nice thin side walls to the cockpit area and scales up well to the drawing in the Harleyford Fighter Aircraft book. I haven't built it yet (so much plastic, so little time!) but the strut arrangement to hold the pusher engine looks as though it should be fun. For your information his kit programme includes a DH2, a DH4, a BE2E and a German that I have forgotten. All in the correct scale, of course. Happy modelling Len. Len Smith http://home.clara.net/lensmith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 99 16:46:09 GMT From: Len Smith To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: 55 Squadron. Message-ID: <990609164609.n0001285.lensmith@mail.clara.net> Sandy, Thank you very much for your help. I will try to get the Chronicle book through the Inter-Library loan scheme from my local reference library. I am continually gratified at the depth and breadth of the knowledge that is available from the members of this list and I should like to widen my thanks to all members for the help (and amusement!) that they have given me.Thank you all, especially Allan who makes it all happen. Regards, Len. Len Smith http://home.clara.net/lensmith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 99 18:31:09 GMT From: Len Smith To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Drills. Message-ID: <990609183109.n0001310.lensmith@mail.clara.net> Sandy, Try writing to Shesto Ltd., Unit 2 Sapecote Trading Centre, 374 High Road, Willesden, London NW10 2DH. They will supply Metric drills down to .30 or Imperial down to 80 as separate items, good quality ones too. The last lot that I bought were 50p each plus VAT any quantity. Or phone them on 0181-451 6188 with credit card. They also do a useful catalogue for about £3.50 (I think) showing all sorts of goodies, including mouse (not rat) tail files! I believe their main business is with clock and watch makers/repairers. Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer. HTH Regards Len. Len Smith http://home.clara.net/lensmith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 14:08:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <199906091808.OAA19393@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Sandy, Thanks for the article - it's on the web page now. -Allan > > Hi James > If you don't mind, I'll send to whole group as somebody else asked much the > same question. > > STRAP (Sandy's Tight Rigging Assured Procedure) > 1. Assemble fuselage, lower wings, tail, undercarriage. > 2. Spray or brush-paint fuselage, tail, and top of bottom wing. > 3. Paint underside of bottom wing. > 4. Drill all holes for rigging from painted surfaces out. Position of exit > holes not too important as they will be filled. (You might decide to only > drill upper wing half-way through so there are no exit holes on top.) > 5. I usually have the cabane struts attached to fuselage at stage 1 - but if > not, attach them now and mount the top wing to them with CA, checking > alignment. > 6. Cut 2-inch or so lengths of mono and put one end into pre-drilled hole on > fuselage at base of cabane strut. Apply spot of CA to hole. > 7. Thread other end through appropriate hole in top wing and attach a pair > of self-locking tweezers or haemostat to end. Turn plane so thread is > tensioned and protruding end lies away from wing. Apply drop of CA to upper > wing hole. > 8. Slice protruding mono flush with razor blade. If you have used a small > enough drill bit there should be virtually no need for any filler. Maybe a > tiny spot of CA, white glue or Tippex at worst. > 9. Repeat stages 6-8 for other cabane wires. > 10. Insert, glue and paint interplane struts. (innermost bay first if 2- or > 3-bay machine). > 11. Cut lengths of mono, and pass right through upper and lower holes. (If > you only half drilled upper wing, you need to attach here first, of course). > 12. Apply drop of CA to top wing hole. > 13. Attach haemostat etc to tension thread end under lower wing. Alpply drop > of CA. Slice flush. > 14. Check for any flaws where threads have emerged and fill/sand if > necessary. > 15. Mask and spray (or just brush) paint the top surface of upper wing and > the lower surface of bottom wing. Apply Decals. > 16. Drill and attach control horns. Paint. > 17. Glue one end of mono control cable to half-drilled hole where cable > emerges from wing (fuselage etc), pass over top of control horn and through > upper aileron hole. Apply CA. > 18. Run upper cable through hole in lower aileron and repeat stage 17 for > cable coming from bottom wing. Apply drop of CA where both cable pass > through lower aileron hole (tensioned). carefull cut the two excess ends. > 19. Repeat steps 16-18 as appropriate for tail control wires. > 20. Add blobs of thick paint (to taste) for turnbuckles. > > > > >Hwne you use monofilament for rigging you indicated you drilled through the > >wings. Do you drill through vertically or at an angle - I assume you drill > >as close to the strut attachment points as possible? When do you paint the > >wings? Before rigging I assume... but what do you do to the underside of > >the bottom wing and the topside of the top wing where the rigging comes > >through? > > > >Any help you can give will be appreciated! > > > >Sincerely, > > > >James L. Gibbons > >(A collector of rigging methods) > > > > > =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 13:39:46 -0500 From: "Mark L. Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Rigging Message-ID: <199906091842.NAA21802@dfw-ix3.ix.netcom.com> One of our stalwarts described a very good method for most doubled wires. Using either very fine wire (fuse wire or 36 guage beading wire) wrap a piece arounde a thin needle or another piece of wire and twist the two ends to make an tiny eyebolt loop. Drill a hole at the attachment point large enough to take the shank and glue the eyebolt in so that it fits tight against the model surface. You want the hole of the eye to open fore-and-aft. Rig through the eyebolts at both ends, then fill with the CA so it appears as a single fitting.You can also flatten the eybolt to a more oval dimension rather than round. It looks like a part of the anchoring/turnbuckle system. If you really want tiny, make a small loop of monofilament in the same manner and rig the double lines through that-- then pull the anchoring loop into the drilled hole to tighten and afix. In this case the doubled lines' anchor point will be inside the wing surface (or fuselage) and no loop or lug effect appears above the surface. Either way, the doubled rigging is then parallel and spaced the width of the eyebolt wire or monofilament guage apart. If you look at the closeups of the Albatros C.III or Fe.2b, you'll see that several of the rigging points along the fuselage attach to eyebolts -- so this isn't entirely out-of-scale anyway. .Mark. ---------- > From: Bill Neill > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Rigging > Date: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 10:59 AM > > I drill a somewhat larger hole, and position the mono so that one strand is > on each side of the hole (and the strands are not twisted!) before CA in the > hole. > Bill Neill > > Question: what technique does anyone use for doubled flying wires? The > monofilament is too fine to show satisfactorily when two strands are > inserted in a single hole, and I find it impossible to drill two hole a > consistent distance apart. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 12:23:34 -0700 From: Mike Fletcher To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: This kit should come with a warning label Message-ID: <375EBF36.2DACEF12@mars.ark.com> Are these the same drawings I have posted at http://mars.ark.com/~mdf/Nperiod.html ? Any chance of a scan if they are not? -- Mike Fletcher ___ ., mdf@mars.ark.com |-\|^----! ; mikef@sparc.nic.bc.ca |--n--""*" icq=19554083 @ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 11:41:22 -0700 From: David & Carol Fletcher To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pilots or not Message-ID: <375EB552.4E85@mars.ark.com> BEN8800@aol.com wrote: "How many of you put a pilot in the cockpit..." Not me! Maybe it stems from having to hack those blobs of heads out of the early Aurora kits that turned me off! Primarily, though, I think that it is an entirely different set of skills and interests that set figure modellers apart from equipment modellers. 54mm and/or 1/32nd scale may lend themselves to realism, but I find that 1/48th scale and smaller people (and pilots are people too, although some of them tend to forget it...) seldom look realistic. On a ship model, the people are generally so much smaller that eyes, etc., can't be seen and you can get away with it. Besides, ships are seldom seen with nobody on board, but aircraft are often parked unattended. In constant-scale collections, there is the opportunity for comparison without having to try and shade a face or make hair look realistic!!! Dave Fletcher ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 15:55:28 -0400 From: "Paul G." To: Subject: Re: Imrie Book on Ebay Message-ID: <00aa01beb2b2$0685afe0$6cdc9bce@oemcomputer> > > >Mike enquired: > > > > > ><< Is the Fokker Triplane book by Alex Imrie still available? > I think I'll try to find this one in another venue. I have not searched > the web much for used book > stores.....anyone out there have some favorite URLs? > > Mike Dicianna > "Der Rote Modellflugzeugbauer" Mike, I just ordered a copy from www.GreatModels.com , I called first to see if it was still available but the lady there said the bookmaster, Loic, was out. I decided to go ahead and order it as it's still listed under the ww1 books. They have it listed as published by Sterling. I'm assuming it's the same book(same title anyway, and hardback). They list it's avail- ability as 6 days from their distributer. It's listed on the fourth page of the ww1 books as st118 The Fokker Triplane. Price was $24.83 that's with UPS shipping. I've got my fingers crossed on this one! Paul Gabert ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 99 19:21:38 GMT From: Len Smith To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: FBA and Anatra photos. Message-ID: <990609192138.n0001314.lensmith@mail.clara.net> Pedro, Just checked out your photos, You certainly build impressive models! :-) I have photos of a similar aircraft in the Le Bourget Museum, also a couple of kits to build, but one is a Type A and the other an FBA Leveque, so it looks as if I will have to scratch build if I want your Type B. Regards Len. Um abraco. Len Smith http://home.clara.net/lensmith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 13:02:08 -0700 From: "Bob Pearson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Imrie Book on Ebay Message-ID: <199906092010.NAA10870@mail.rapidnet.net> My Arms and Armour copy says published in the USA by Sterling .. So I think you got the correct one .. Bob ---------- >From: "Paul G." >Mike, > >I just ordered a copy from www.GreatModels.com , I called first to see >if it was still available but the lady there said the bookmaster, Loic, was >out. I decided to go ahead and order it as it's still listed under the ww1 >books. They have it listed as published by Sterling. I'm assuming it's >the same book(same title anyway, and hardback). They list it's avail- >ability as 6 days from their distributer. It's listed on the fourth page of >the ww1 books as st118 The Fokker Triplane. Price was $24.83 that's >with UPS shipping. I've got my fingers crossed on this one! > >Paul Gabert ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999 14:22:40 -0700 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Colors Message-ID: <002b01beb2be$3ab93820$3616c0d8@bill> Well, yes, this is what I was trying to say, it's not about accurate colors or 'scale effect' recipies so much as interpreting and projecting a visual interpretation of the subject. For my next project (Sea Gladiator) I intend to try much lighter/bluer colors, according to what I feel is in character. Bill Neill > the natural enviroment isn't always the same and the artist can manage this > in favor of the feel he wants to express. Mountains look blue in the > distance, but there's no general rule on the percentage of light blue that > Leonardo added to the official "berg schwartz-grun" behind Mona Lisa's > portrait. > D. > > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1631 **********************