WWI Digest 1583 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Hello? by Matthew E Bittner 2) Re: aircraft tires by Suvoroff@aol.com 3) Re: Not to be a wet blanket..... by KarrArt@aol.com 4) Re: shops in England by philippe.spriesterbach@ping.be (Philippe Spriesterbach) 5) Re: Not to be a wet blanket..... by Albatrosdv@aol.com 6) Re: Master Scratch Building Book by Alcorn by "Charles and Linda Duckworth" 7) Re: Very off topic question by lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) 8) Re: HANRIOT dorsal fairing shape by "Hirohisa Ozaki" 9) Back to the Future by "Charles and Linda Duckworth" 10) Re: Back to the Future by Albatrosdv@aol.com 11) Re: Back to the Future by Ashley9862@aol.com 12) RE: Back to the Future by Shane Weier 13) Re: Back to the Future by "DAVID BURKE" 14) RE: Back to the Future by Shane Weier 15) Re: Back to the Future by KarrArt@aol.com 16) Re: Back to the Future by Modelhound@aol.com 17) Re: Back to the Future by John Huggins 18) Re: aircraft tires by John Huggins 19) Re: An announcement.... by "Sharon Henderson" 20) Re: aircraft tires by "Charles and Linda Duckworth" 21) Re: Back to the Future by smperry@mindspring.com 22) RE: Back to the Future by Shane Weier 23) Re: Back to the Future by "DAVID BURKE" 24) Re: Back to the Future by "DAVID BURKE" 25) Re: Back to the Future by Albatrosdv@aol.com 26) Explosions: was:Back to the Future by mkendix 27) Thanks by Ernest Thomas 28) Models for sale - Much WWI by "Jeff Wilson" 29) Re: Back to the Future by Albatrosdv@aol.com 30) Re: A virus warning by Albatrosdv@aol.com 31) RE: Official Designations by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 32) Re: aircraft tires by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:49:01 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Hello? Message-ID: <19990517.164903.-809975.0.mbittner@juno.com> Am I coming through? Did my Comic stuff come through? Hel-LO? Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 17:40:41 EDT From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: aircraft tires Message-ID: <683a2a04.2471e6d9@aol.com> Diego wondered; "I was wondering yesterday why the aircraft tires from WW1 are of different shades, some are dark but some are very light." Rubber is naturally rather light in shade (the color varies depending the source) but it was found that adding lampblack to the mixture (originally merely as a coloring agent) both increased the resistance of the rubber to ultraviolet radiation and actually increased its durability. Now, when this was well known by the Great War, I don't know why they would not always do it; but obviously they didn't. Yours, James D. Gray ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 17:51:07 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Not to be a wet blanket..... Message-ID: <46bcc948.2471e94b@aol.com> In a message dated 5/17/99 2:29:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sdw@qld.mim.com.au writes: << Since I'm one of the offenders in this recent outburst of off topic hilarity I feel I should add my 2 cents worth. Bill is right. I look back over the last two weeks and the genuinely WW1 modelling related stuff is in a tiny minority. >> I'll add a "Me Too!". Seriously, it seems to run in cycles. Some weekend, somebody starts something and it'll go on for a week or so. Lately, I've been semi-lurking as I try to get some real work finished, only surfacing with the ocassional smart-ass remark. This is my way of saying "Hey You- I'm still here". If I see someone in need of any research, and I know that I've got something that's in a known location (never a sure thing around our house), I'll go off list and deal with it. The List cycle seems to follow: quiet (maybe everybody is away from the infernal digital machine and actually getting some building done!); A posting is made about an on-topic item, and we're off and running again with all the anal-retentive detail anyone could hope for; Devolution into off topic goofiness. Then another cycle starts. Humor> quiet>on topic>humor>quiet>on topic. For the newbies who haven't been around during the Holidays- watch out! The list goes nuts with all the sappy,off-topic sentimental goo that can be heaped out by mortals. As for what I might be looking for at the moment that's on-topic- it's all the usual eternal questions- Pfalz cockpit colors nailed positively; when is Revellogram releasing a 1/48 Staaken; and why don't I have my own Alb C III to fly friends around on the weekend? Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:28:05 GMT From: philippe.spriesterbach@ping.be (Philippe Spriesterbach) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: shops in England Message-ID: <3740978e.19331768@relay.ping.be> On Fri, 14 May 1999 07:52:23 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: >Hi list, > >I'm new in the list and I think I could not arrive in a better place for >beginning in WW1 1/72e modeling snip >Philippe Lejeune (Versailles, France) Hi Philippe, Welcome on this list from Belgium. Regards -- Philippe Spriesterbach One of the (numerous) Mad Scratchbuilders http://www.ping.be/phillipe_models/ philippe.spriesterbach@ping.be IPMS Belgium Member #F015 IPMS Brussels Secretary ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:49:30 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Not to be a wet blanket..... Message-ID: In a message dated 99-05-17 18:01:48 EDT, you write: << why don't I have my own Alb C III to fly friends around on the weekend? Robert K. >> Because you haven't convinced Javier to make one. :-) TC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:20:32 -0500 From: "Charles and Linda Duckworth" To: Subject: Re: Master Scratch Building Book by Alcorn Message-ID: <003201bea0bb$df5b8c80$975cdfd1@q1p5x0> Did the catalog give a release date? >Robert K. No, HA catalog only lists under 'New Books'. Amazon doesn't give a release date either. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:50:10 GMT From: lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Very off topic question Message-ID: <3740aa77.2467024@legend.firstsaga.com> On Sun, 16 May 1999 23:13:40 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: > and mis-matched socks have been a way of life for >me for longer than I can remember. How about mis-matched shoes ? A couple of years ago I got to work and then realized I had two different shoes on....luckily no one noticed or no one bothered to comment. I had to call my daughter and have her bring me a shoe. Of course after that she took to tying my shoes together for me.... Len ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:54:25 +0900 From: "Hirohisa Ozaki" To: "WWI ML post" Subject: Re: HANRIOT dorsal fairing shape Message-ID: <001801bea0c0$98179580$b11db684@dosv64.miln.mei.co.jp> Good morning Tom S, >What few HD1 reference I have all show some form of truncated triangle. Thank you! Is this meaning that Eduard kit is correct and upper side plan on FMP is incorrect? Hiro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:04:03 -0500 From: "Charles and Linda Duckworth" To: Subject: Back to the Future Message-ID: <004501bea0c2$06416080$975cdfd1@q1p5x0> I looked in the archive and couldn't find any past threads on using Future acrylic floor wax as a gloss coating before applying decals. The St. Louis group met last week and got into a discussion about mixing it with alcohol and spraying through an airbrush. Another modeler advised putting it down straight from the bottle with a 'Q-tip'. For those who have been successful in putting it down as a gloss finish how did you apply it and can you spray a commerial Dullcote over it or do you need to use a water-based clear-flat coat? Do you coat the entire wing surface (wing tip to wing tip) or just the area to be decalled. Thanks, Charlie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:07:10 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: In a message dated 99-05-17 20:04:28 EDT, you write: << The St. Louis group met last week and got into a discussion about mixing it with alcohol and spraying through an airbrush. Another modeler advised putting it down straight from the bottle with a 'Q-tip'. For those who have been successful in putting it down as a gloss finish how did you apply it and can you spray a commerial Dullcote over it or do you need to use a water-based clear-flat coat? Do you coat the entire wing surface (wing tip to wing tip) or just the area to be decalled. >> Do it straight out of the container over the whole model. These other people don't sound like they know what they are talking about. Do a *very* light coat, and add more till you have what you want. You can put Dullcote over it with no problem. Or you can get some Tamiya Flat Base, put it in some Future, and make your own flat coat. HTH Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:10:43 EDT From: Ashley9862@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <67bb5821.24720a03@aol.com> I use future as a pre-decal gloss coat all the time...I airbrush it straight from the bottle.....I never had a problem...I do try to acheive a fine mist so I don't get any pooling..... After I finish with the decals I coat the model with future again...then apply a flat lacquer...I never had a problem. Candice ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:29:38 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Back to the Future Message-ID: Charlie, > I looked in the archive and couldn't find any past threads on > using Future > acrylic floor wax as a gloss coating before applying decals. > The St. Louis > group met last week and got into a discussion about mixing it > with alcohol > and spraying through an airbrush. Another modeler advised > putting it down > straight from the bottle with a 'Q-tip'. For those who have been > successful in putting it down as a gloss finish how did you > apply it and can > you spray a commerial Dullcote over it or do you need to use > a water-based > clear-flat coat? Do you coat the entire wing surface (wing > tip to wing > tip) or just the area to be decalled. > Thanks, Charlie > I find the stuff incredibly forgiving. Apply with brush, cloth, airbrush, or whatever. However I occasionally have trouble with orange peeling when spraying over enamels, so prefer using a big wide brush for the first coat in that case. I overcoat with either acrylic or enamel satin or rarely with a flat. Any of these work just fine though you should give the stuff a day to cure thoroughly if you use a non water based topcoat. Oh, and Future works just fine over Future Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:31:46 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <000801bea0c5$d14df060$ae01c0d1@dora9sprynet.com> I NEVER use alcohol with the airbrush! Too much risk of a flash fire! If you desire to thin Future (which you shouldn't need to), use Windex. It's also the best to clean up your stuff. I also use Future to mix with my acrylic paints: it dries extremely hard, making your paint sandable. It also 'pulls' the paint into the surface texture. The Future acts as a wetting agent, making the paint flow well through the A/B. Also, the paint dries glossy/semi-gloss, so you can put your decals right down on it. You can use either acrylic or enamel flatting agents on Future with no trouble. Dave ><< The St. Louis > group met last week and got into a discussion about mixing it with alcohol > and spraying through an airbrush. Another modeler advised putting it down > straight from the bottle with a 'Q-tip'. For those who have been > successful in putting it down as a gloss finish how did you apply it and can > you spray a commerial Dullcote over it or do you need to use a water-based > clear-flat coat? Do you coat the entire wing surface (wing tip to wing > tip) or just the area to be decalled. >> > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:40:54 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Back to the Future Message-ID: Dave, > > I NEVER use alcohol with the airbrush! Too much risk of a > flash fire! This would be news to Tamiya, Gunze and others who sell isopropyl alcohol as the thinner for their acrylics. However, I expect most of us would be smart enough not to light up next to a brush shooting an enamel thinned with some form of distillate, and likewise with an acrylic thinned with alcohol. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:52:14 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <42c8135.247213be@aol.com> In a message dated 5/17/99 5:29:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sdw@qld.mim.com.au writes: << I find the stuff incredibly forgiving. Apply with brush, cloth, airbrush, or whatever. However I occasionally have trouble with orange peeling when spraying over enamels, so prefer using a big wide brush for the first coat in that case. >> FWIW, I've started using using the stuff to make colored glazes in my paintings. I usually do some testing with a new (to me) substance, and in the case of Future, I shot some over a patch of color and stuck it in the window for a few weeks to see about any yellowing. Not only didn't it yellow, it helped preserve the color underneath it. I don't recommend this stuff to be used over a large flexible area ( like a big painting!) because it can develop shattered micro cracks (somewhat like real old fashion laquer). But this is hardly a concern for models ( or smallish patches on a painting!). Also, as Shane said, this is forgiving stuff, and easy to use. I spray it, mix it with other things and spray it, plop some out on a palette with my other colors and mix it with a brush- you name it- I've done it with Future. This is the best stuff since deep fried bread. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:07:11 EDT From: Modelhound@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: To eliminate the silvering on small decals. stencils and such, I have had some good results with the following process. I spray the Future straight from the bottle onto the model until I get a 'wet' look in the reflection. After it is dry for 24 hours, I brush paint a spot of Future onto the model where the decal will go on, and apply the decal onto the wet future puddle. I then brush some more Future over the decal. When this whole batch dries, the decal is sandwiched between layers of the acrylic and has NO silvering. I have not had any bad reactions with putting an acrylic semi-gloss or flat coat on at the last. **ALSO** I have had some good results with tinting the Future with analine dyes, available in shoe repair shops as leather dye, to make an amber varnish which I paint onto the wood surfaces, struts, interior framing, exterior plywood panels, and the like. I have also made my own 'candy apple red' paint using Future and red dye. Paint it over metalflake silver or gold for a showstopper hot rod paint job. Mike is the 'modelhound@aol.com' ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:21:45 -0500 From: John Huggins To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: >In a message dated 5/17/99 5:29:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >sdw@qld.mim.com.au writes: > ><< I find the stuff incredibly forgiving. Apply with brush, cloth, airbrush, >or I agree with all of the other comments with one exception. I have found that if it is applied over a gloss paint, within a few days, you will begin to see bit of spider web cracking. This will continue for the next few days and will be very noticeable by then. This has to do with the rate the future reacts with the atmosphere compared to the underlying paint. This problem does not exist with semi gloss or flat paints. Also, you can mix the old formula Polly S clear flat or the AeroMaster clear flat in any ratio and get just about any degree of flatness you want. Future does not need to be thinned. It can be applied any way you want. I have sprayer it, brushed it, put it on with my finger, a q-tip, a rag, piured it over parts, dipped then in the stuff, and even spilled it on a model. Bottom line, they all worked. have fun with it. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:27:41 -0500 From: John Huggins To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: aircraft tires Message-ID: >Diego wondered; >"I was wondering yesterday why the aircraft tires from WW1 are of different >shades, some are dark but some are very light." > Rubber is naturally rather light in shade (the color varies depending >the source) but it was found that adding lampblack to the mixture (originally >merely as a coloring agent) both increased the resistance of the rubber to >ultraviolet radiation and actually increased its durability. Now, when this >was well known by the Great War, I don't know why they would not always do >it; but obviously they didn't. > >Yours, >James D. Gray Part of the mystery has to do with the use of synthetic rubber. The synthetic stuff is a light gray color. I have seen some examples of natural rubber being a pinkish color. If someone doesn't like your color match, ask them to prove that you are wrong. You do not have to prove you are correct, it is your model and your choice of colors. JPH ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:33:27 -0400 From: "Sharon Henderson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: An announcement.... Message-ID: <9905172133.AA27450@ft.sumter> I'm ba-a-a-aack.... :-) > Hello everyone... > > I apologize that this is off-topic, but I dont think anyone will > object. > (Except for Sharon, who will probably be sooooo embarassed ....) Aww geez, the second I turn my back.... :-) > I would just like to advise the list members that one of our number ... > Sharon.... will be ordained into the Church today - becoming the > "Reverend Sharon Henderson". I know she is very excited about it, > and it seems to me that this is a life event worthy of mention, and I > am sure our entire little community wishes her well. :-) Thanks Dave, and thanks y'all for the lovely messages! It was a lovely day, a wonderful ceremony, and I'm now a Deacon -- or as one of the visiting priests said, watching me cry: "look! It's a Leakin'Deacon!" (Ernest, I can hear you thinking all the way from here.... ) > We are certainly an eclectic little bunch.... :-) We certainly are. But don't worry -- I'm still the punning monster I always was. (Well okay, maybe I'll TRY to clean up my mind a LITTLE bit....) Let me see now. Sermon topics. "The Worship of Idols: Why It Matters What Color MvR's Socks were!" "1/72 Scale: Evil or Not?" "The Hermaneutics of Modelling Directions in Foreign Tongues...." "An Exegesis of the Hasegawa Clerget Engine Model...." And the ever-popular: "Saintly Sitings in Australia"!! :-) Anyway, thanks y'all. The expressions and prayers and even the hairballs from heretics are much appreciated: I love you all! Obligatory Modelling Content: My son's ordination gift to me was a new x-acto knife and replacement blades, "so you don't have to cuss over the flashings any more, Mom!" ;-) Little Pitchers have Big Ears.... blessings, Sharon ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:05:19 -0500 From: "Charles and Linda Duckworth" To: Subject: Re: aircraft tires Message-ID: <001001bea0d2$e32ce860$c79359d8@q1p5x0> >> Rubber is naturally rather light in shade (the color varies depending >>the source) but it was found that adding lampblack to the mixture (originally >>merely as a coloring agent) both increased the resistance of the rubber to >>ultraviolet radiation and actually increased its durability. Now, when this >>was well known by the Great War, I don't know why they would not always do >>it; but obviously they didn't. I seem to remember the Halberstadt in the Air Force museum has pinkish-grey tires but it was several years ago when I saw it, (and) perhaps durability wasn't an issue when the aircraft suppliers were trying to get materials up to the front lines in short order to keep the planes in flying order. Carbon black may have also been hard to import into Europe or not deemed a vital material for the war effort. I've always liked the contrast between the tires and wheels found on the pre-war Bleriots, Farmans etc with the light grey tires. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:07:53 -0400 From: smperry@mindspring.com To: Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <004201bea0d3$3e0c7520$102845cf@smp> > I NEVER use alcohol with the airbrush! Too much risk of a flash fire! If > you desire to thin Future (which you shouldn't need to), use Windex. It's > also the best to clean up your stuff. I also use Future to mix with my > acrylic paints: it dries extremely hard, making your paint sandable. It > also 'pulls' the paint into the surface texture. The Future acts as a > wetting agent, making the paint flow well through the A/B. Also, the paint > dries glossy/semi-gloss, so you can put your decals right down on it. > > You can use either acrylic or enamel flatting agents on Future with no > trouble. > I like the idea about using Future as a wetting agent for acryllic paints. I have only tried a few of those, but this sounds like it would work well. Interesting comment on the alcohol. I use alcohol to clean my airbrush after spraying Future. I blast the alcohol straight at the vent of my spray booth. It is sucked out through a dryer vent and a squirrel cage fan and out the window. Haven't toasted anything yet. One thing I have noticed when I spray a model with future, sometines certian areas bead up. I assume it is oil from fingers or some such. Since I mostly use enamel paints, I think the next model will get a light swabing with alcohol to be sure the surface is real clean before the Future is sprayed. Another variation on the decal application theme of Future uses is rib tapes. I brush paint a chordwise stripe of future on the rib station just before I apply a strip of decal material and then another light coat over the tape. No more peeling up of tapes. It's especially good on the LE & TE tapes. sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:18:32 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Back to the Future Message-ID: Mike notes: > **ALSO** I have had some good results > with tinting the > Future with analine dyes, ...and there is my favourite technique for props - Future tinted with watercolour pencil. Hey, I even make "yellowed varnish" with Future and yellow ochre pencil. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:38:21 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <002b01bea0d7$c6fc7840$cd01c0d1@dora9sprynet.com> I expect most of us would be smart >enough not to light up next to a brush shooting an enamel thinned with some >form of distillate, and likewise with an acrylic thinned with alcohol. > >Shane Yes, but airbrush compressors and fans/air purifiers can generate sparks, and I prefer prudence over cashing in my Renter's Policy! I'm especially careful when shooting lacqer thinner and VM&P Naptha (my thinner of choice). Dave ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:40:16 -0500 From: "DAVID BURKE" To: Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <002c01bea0d7$c7b39340$cd01c0d1@dora9sprynet.com> I'm gonna try that one, thanks! Dave >Another variation on the decal application theme of Future uses is rib >tapes. I brush paint a chordwise stripe of future on the rib station just >before I apply a strip of decal material and then another light coat over >the tape. No more peeling up of tapes. It's especially good on the LE & TE >tapes. > >sp > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:57:29 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: <9f9c38dd.24723119@aol.com> In a message dated 99-05-17 20:57:18 EDT, you write: << This is the best stuff since deep fried bread. >> Only an Arkansan could say that! :-) However, everything Robert says is true. For those of you who model OT, and who do such things as (ahh-ooo-gaa! ahh-oo-gaa! OT alert! OT alert!) bubble canopies that are vacuformed, (or any other kind of vacuformed canopy) if you dip it in Future and then let it dry, not only does it make the canopy incredibly clear, but you can attach it with CA with no fear of fogging. Maybe RK was right after all about what this compares with.... (Rule #1 - RK is always right. Rule #2 - if that seems incorrect, refer to Rule #1.) Tom C ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:01:43 -0400 (EDT) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Explosions: was:Back to the Future Message-ID: I assume that nobody on the list has experienced an actual explosion since they probably wouldn't be with us. Thus, the fact that nobody has experienced such is not comforting to me. I investigated spray booths etc. prior to buying an airbrush. I also considered building my own spray booth. I went to Home Depot to buy a small fan for a spray booth. The person working there was knowledgable and alarmed. He advised me to purchase a non-exploding fan - he didn't have one in the store. The spark from the motor has to be contained and must not meet any flamables. I use water based acrylics and distilled water to clean. I also use windshield washer liquid to thin - it works fine even for white paint, which doesn't show the blue. You can also use Windex, I'm told. I use isopropyl (sp?) alcohol to clean (not spray). Finally, if you use spray lacquer, enamel paints etc. you need to use a proper respirator mask, otherwise you may not live long enough to make a dent in that pile of kits you've got in the attic or wherever. Sorry to sermonize but I ned you all to live long because I have many modelling questions requiring answers. Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu On Mon, 17 May 1999, DAVID BURKE wrote: > I expect most of us would be smart > >enough not to light up next to a brush shooting an enamel thinned with some > >form of distillate, and likewise with an acrylic thinned with alcohol. > > > >Shane > > Yes, but airbrush compressors and fans/air purifiers can generate sparks, > and I prefer prudence over cashing in my Renter's Policy! I'm especially > careful when shooting lacqer thinner and VM&P Naptha (my thinner of choice). > > Dave > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:09:24 -0500 From: Ernest Thomas To: multiple recipients of list Subject: Thanks Message-ID: <3740D9E4.5F6F@bellsouth.net> Thanks to everyone who helped me out with the question on how much to charge this war gamer guy. I'm sure I'll be talking to y'all individually, but I wanted to make sure I got every one. Off to knock out some Snipes... E. I'm the all night drug prowling wolf who looks so sick in the sun... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:59:25 +1000 From: "Jeff Wilson" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Models for sale - Much WWI Message-ID: Dear All, please pardon the intrusion of a clearance sale... I thought I'd post here first instead of rms, to give you guys and gals first bite of the on-topic cherry. If anyone wonders why I'm clearing some of these items, suffice to say that I've switched to 1/48 and 1/35 and these are surplus to requirements. As much as I'd like to keep some of these, I'm going to be strong and let them go if the interest is there. Email me OFF list please as I'm getting the list digest, so if you reply directly to the list it could be a while before I read it (and I'm on email at work only, so there might be some time delays anyway). I'll send you a text document readable in MSWord or a spread sheet for MSExcel (state your preference). All the kits are complete and unstarted unless otherwise stated, and all prices are in Australian dollars/ bananas/pesos (feel free to make near offers and I'll consider them) with the buyer paying for the shipping (air or surface) of their choice. First come, first served... Jeff Jeffrey Spencer Wilson Photography Unit Research School of Biological Sciences Australian National University Acton ACT 0200 Australia (02) 6249 3635 Jeffrey Spencer Wilson Photography Unit Research School of Biological Sciences Australian National University Acton ACT 0200 Australia (02) 6249 3635 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:00:12 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Back to the Future Message-ID: In a message dated 99-05-17 21:17:15 EDT, you write: << I have also made my own 'candy apple red' paint using Future and red dye. Paint it over metalflake silver or gold for a showstopper hot rod paint job> You can use acrylic paints this way. For interiors of Japanese aircraft that call for "aotake," use either green or blue, a bit in the future, shoot over a silver backdrop - works a lot better than Gunze or Tamiya "clear" colors. Tom C ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:10:31 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: A virus warning Message-ID: <157436d1.24723427@aol.com> This comes from my friend, Cindy Keller, who runs the Planes of Fame website, is a computer professional, and not an alarmist. Can't hurt to check this one. Tom Cleaver Hi all, Thought I'd pass this along. It took us 6 1/2 hours to troubleshoot this - and there were 2 computer nerds working on it nonstop! Cindy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------- Hello Everyone, I have been using a laptop computer since I started work here back in March. Every time I started Windows '95, I received the following error message: Win32sys Cannot find file "SGVGORE.VBX" OK Today I went searching the internet for a solution to this problem and found out that this is a virus. It is not listed on Norton or McAfee's web pages, but I did find it in the PC Win Resource Center. This is a very dangerous virus! It reads your password when you log on to internet services like AOL and sends it the virus host. There is no program available to remove this virus. I was able to clean it off after several hours of searching my hard disk. If you have this virus below are the steps to clean it. 1. Search your disk for a file named "win32sys.exe". If you find it delete it. 2. Next you have to clean the Windows '95 registry. If you don't know how to run regedit.exe, Don't! If you make a mistake in the '95 registry you could damage your file structure and your computer will not boot. If you are experienced with regedit search for the string "sgvgore.vbx". If found the string in the following path. "MyComputer\HKEY_USERS\Default\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersi on\Explorer\Doc Find Spec MRU" delete "sgvgore.vbx" 3. Search you hard disk for all files beginning with "pkg" and ending in ".exe". I found one file named "c:\windows\pkga101.exe". Delete this file. 4. Lastly, you need to remove "c:\windows\pkga101.exe" from the load line in the "c:\windows\win.ini" file. This is tricky, the virus places this string to the far right of the file. It looks like it is not there, but scroll the window to the right and you will see it. Remove this line. The computer should now be clean. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:49:52 -0700 (PDT) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: Official Designations Message-ID: <199905180449.VAA17263@compass.OregonVOS.net> cam writes: >Was there a JG5 and JG6 in WWI? Not so far as I know - although the Jagdgruppen were numbered 1 through 12, there were only the four Jagdgeschwaderen so far as I know. >and did the Germans designate their >JG's with Roman Numerals or Arabic Numerals? I've seen it both ways - but I think Arabic was the official practice. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "You don't need a weather man to know which way the wind blows." -Bob Dylan- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:05:31 -0700 (PDT) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: aircraft tires Message-ID: <199905180505.WAA26277@compass.OregonVOS.net> Diego Fernetti writes: >I was wondering yesterday why the aircraft tires from WW1 are of different >shades, some are dark but some are very light. Why? I suppose it's related >to the properties of the rubber material... but I don't know. Another >question: They had a smooth thread? As others have done the color question, I'll follow up only on the tread one. Yes, they mostly (always?) were smooth. The purpose of a tread on a tire is to improve traction - as WW1 a/c could neither be steered nor braked via the wheels, improved traction on the tires was irrelevant. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "You don't need a weather man to know which way the wind blows." -Bob Dylan- ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1583 **********************