WWI Digest 1550 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: White/Elemers glue (was: What's on your work bench?) by KarrArt@aol.com 2) Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack by "Sandy Adam" 3) Fiat 300hp by Matthew E Bittner 4) Albatros "spigot" by "Diego Fernetti" 5) Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack by Ernest Thomas 6) Re: What's on your work bench? by Scottfking@aol.com 7) Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack by Scottfking@aol.com 8) Re: What's on your work bench? by "Mark Shanks" 9) feathered edges by mkendix 10) Albatros D.III Colors by "Karl K. Juelch" 11) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by Albatrosdv@aol.com 12) Re: feathered edges by "Lee J Mensinger" 13) Re: feathered edges by "Mark Shanks" 14) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 15) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by Albatrosdv@aol.com 16) Cutting rib tapes , was: what's on .. by "Tom Werner Hansen" 17) Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors by mkendix 18) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by "Mark Shanks" 19) Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors by Albatrosdv@aol.com 20) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by Albatrosdv@aol.com 21) Re: penlight people/ by "Bill Neill" 22) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by Bob Pearson 23) ww1 Russian site by mkendix 24) Re: Albatros "spigot" by Matthew E Bittner 25) RE: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors by Shane Weier 26) RE: penlight people/ by Shane Weier 27) Re: RE: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors by GRBroman@aol.com 28) Re: Albatros D.III Colors by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 29) Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors by Albatrosdv@aol.com 30) Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors by Albatrosdv@aol.com 31) Re: Warneford's Morane Parasol 3253 by "The Shannons" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:28:31 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: White/Elemers glue (was: What's on your work bench?) Message-ID: <44ffd7fb.245688df@aol.com> In a message dated 4/26/99 7:42:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ethomas6@bellsouth.net writes: << KarrArt@aol.com wrote: > About the only thing I > do sometimes is dip the brush in a little water-base color and kinda mix it > in the glue just so I can see what I've done. The actual color doesn't > matter- it's a marker. Sure, steal my idea, do a bit of editing, and call it your own. I hope your engineerlettes never come back. :p E. >> I've been doin' this since you were draining your radiator into a diaper! ( or at least my engineerlettes have- oops- gotta go- time for their daily tickle) Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 08:56:47 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack Message-ID: <199904270758.IAA27188@beryl.sol.co.uk> Any chance of a scan of the Italian/Belgian bit? I just want to check I don't leave off any stars or whatever in the plan view. Sandy Got the detail pics - they are good aren't they? ---------- > From: Ernest Thomas > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack > Date: 27 April 1999 03:53 > > Sandy Adam wrote: > > > I thought somebody had said they had a page covering this in the kit though > > - and I was missing a page from the instruction sheets - but maybe there is > > not such a thing for this kit? > > Sandy > > Sandy, and anyone else who has this kit and may be missing some pages. > My profipack HD.1 came with a marking & painting sheet that was seperate > from the instructions. It has 4 view color guides for Italian, Belgian, > French and U.S.N. versions. The Belgian and French cammo looks to be all > the same colors and patterns with a few variations in the shape of some > of the color blobs. What I found to be a real treat was the mini-guide. > If you didn't have one of these in your box, too bad. It's a full color > print out with 8 photos of a museum specimen in Belgian markings showing > fuselage, cockpit, strut & cables, empanage, MG, and undercarriage > details. Hth... > E. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 05:14:55 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Fiat 300hp Message-ID: <19990427.051928.-844571.1.mbittner@juno.com> Since I'm contemplating converting HR's (or maybe the WIngs vac) Breguet 14 A.2 into a Fiat 300hp engine version, does anyone have any drawings, pictures or maybe know of an aftermarket engine? Unlike the versions with the other engine, the Fiat was exposed on top. TIA! Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 07:32:46 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "WW1 mailing list" Subject: Albatros "spigot" Message-ID: <004001be9099$4a9c35e0$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi list, Do you remember, some time ago, that somebody brought the question about a "spigot" device attached to the port side of the NASM Albatros? Well, even when this subject was quite clarified, I wrote to the Smithsonian Institution asking for that, and having received a letter from the museum yesterday maybe you are interested in their answer. I transcript the letter here: "Dear Mr. Ferneitti (sic) Thank you for your letter of February concerning the Albatros DVa 'Stropp' now on the collection of the NASM and exhibited in our gallery 'Legend, Memory and the Great War in the Air'. The best response we can give you is that it is the aperture for a flare or signal gun. It is angled in such a way as to ensure that the flare would pass outboard of the aircraft without striking the wings or tailplane. The mount is far enough forward that the gun was probably in a fixed mount, but it was probably 'souvenired' upon capture of the aircraft. This most certainly was a personal modification, wich it is not see on other production models of the Albatros. We hope this information is helpful. Thank you for your interest in the NASM. Sincerely, Brian Nicklas Researcher & Permissions Liaison" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 06:51:41 -0500 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack Message-ID: <3725A4CD.49B0@bellsouth.net> Sandy Adam wrote: > > Any chance of a scan of the Italian/Belgian bit? I just want to check I > don't leave off any stars or whatever in the plan view. Sorry Mate, but I don't have a scanner. I can tell you that there's no stars on the wings or tailplane. The underside of the fuse does have them though. And the stars end just before the cockpit. Hth, and if you got any other questions, just yodel. :) E. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 08:38:00 EDT From: Scottfking@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's on your work bench? Message-ID: <60c1d9e4.245709a8@aol.com> In a message dated 4/25/99 9:30:10 AM EST, cnlduckwor@ninenet.com writes: << Was interested in what everyone is building and what stages your in with the kit? >> Just finished (March) Eduard Albatros DIII Eduard Nieuport 17 just started on. Sword P66 Vanguard (1/72) wings tail and stab glued to completed fuselage. Some "gaposis" to fix. Eduard Pfalz DIII - was completed and taken to three contests and to local club meeting. Needs rebuilding due to unfortunate landing accident (in my closet). I can hardly look at it. Skippy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 08:37:43 EDT From: Scottfking@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Hanriot ProfiPack Message-ID: <76102537.24570997@aol.com> In a message dated 4/26/99 5:22:38 PM EST, bigglesrfc@globalserve.net writes: << Mine also came with no diagrams for the Belgian and Italian machines. >> If I am in the same situation as most everyone else, the two kits I have seen of the Profi Pack Hanriot came with: A fold out instruction sheet for constructing the kit A single page of camoflage instructions for the US Navy on one side an d the French Navy on the other side A color photo page with pictures of a Belgian HD1 in a museum Decals for all of the above plus an Italian machine illustrated on the box art which has stars painted on it. The decals are all numbered, but for this a/c there are no diagrams showing placement, other than the box art, and the only other place I have seen this one is a photo in the Windsock datafile. I would presume there would be a diagram for the Italian version otherwise I doubt Eduard would have had the decal mfr number the individual stars. The standard Eduard kit comes with markings for one Belgian (Coppens' machine) and an Italian version. If some of us have a sheet detailing the Italian version in the Profi Pack kits then Eduard has unfortunately omitted this from some of the kits. If so, does someone have a copy they can scan for those of us who would like to have it? Maybe Eduard can help? Scott (Skippy) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 07:49:58 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: What's on your work bench? Message-ID: <199904271449.HAA16773@elvis.fltdyn.com> Dave Vosburgh asks: > Any chance we're ever going to see that Alb. Dr.I? If your wife likes it I > suspect the rest of us might too... I don't have a digital camera, but our tech services dept photographer has said he would take some shots of it. I just have to wait for him to get "freed up" - we's a busy company these days. (Anyone see the article in Aviation Week April 19 edition about our HUDs - it's nice to get press like that!) Anyway - as SOON as I can, both the Albatross Dr I and the Night Attack Hornet will get snapped (F/A-18D shots to another site, of course!). My efforts aren't *quite* as accomplished as the olde tymers at this WWI game, but *I'm* satisfied (for an OOB job, anyway) ;-) Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com http://www.fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 11:56:58 -0400 (EDT) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: feathered edges Message-ID: Thanks to all those people who responded to my clear parts painting question. I have now filed that information away. My next question is to ask what methods folks use for airbrushing feathered (as opposed to hard) lines for camouflage patterns. I know this is probably old stuff to most experienced persons so I apologize in advance to them. But, if I don't ask, I won't know. Thanks, Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:11:47 -0400 From: "Karl K. Juelch" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <3725E1BC.7945BA@earthlink.net> Hi All!, I've been lurking on this list for a few weeks now and am quite impressed--everyone deserves a round of applause for making this a great group. I'm a long-time modeler (all OT acft) and have just recently worked up the nerve to try some WWI modeling. I've been working on the Eduard Albatros D.III and except for a few minor hiccups it has been going together well. I would like to finish it as the well known Jasta 5 machine as depicted on the cover of the Datafile Special (the blue and white "Bavarian" fin and rudder, green and red horizontal tail, white and blue fuselage "sash"). Does anyone have an informed opinion on what colors to paint the wing? Several captions for this particular acft state that it is an early D.III. I have read that early D.III wings were doped brown and green. The Datafile Special acft has green and purple wings, and they identify the acft as being in late 1917. So far, I have no problems with any of that. I could finish the acft in green and brown for an early machine, or green and purple for a later scheme. But what really has me confused is the "Fabric" feature on Bertrab's D.III in the latest Windsock magazine and the review of the "Profipack" Eduard Alb. D.III in the same issue. Each of these sources refers to the Albatros factory standard wing camo as being a 3 color scheme of Brunswick Green, Olive Green, and Venetian Red. Would it be safe to assume that most D.III's were finished in the 3 color scheme, or would that depend on who built them? Is there any photographic evidence for the wing colors on the above mentioned Jasta 5 acft? Can any one make any paint reccomendations for the 3 color scheme? I know WWI colors are a minefield of conjecture and we will never know with absolute certainty what these colors really looked like, but I would like to finish this model in accordance with the best informed guesses out there! TIA, Karl ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:40:36 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: In a message dated 99-04-27 12:10:28 EDT, you write: << I know WWI colors are a minefield of conjecture and we will never know with absolute certainty what these colors really looked like, but I would like to finish this model in accordance with the best informed guesses out there! TIA, >> The one thing that leads me to think this airplane (which I did myself, BTW, with green/lilac wings) is an early one is the rudder. Once Albatros did the first 200, the majority of the production run was produced by OAW, who used the round rudder. Certainly by the Spring of 1917, from everything I have read, Albatros was out of D.III production as they were gearing up for the D.V. So, by the rudder, this is an early D.III, and therefore it could have either the three color camo, or it could have the two-color later pattern. Since there is no photograph (that I know of) to prove or disprove the point, modelers are pretty free to go either way. I did the three-color on my D.II, and IMHO the two-color scheme looks better. This is one of those things like painting dinosaur models - none of the Penlight Police can really prove whatever nit-picking point they want to try and make. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 11:53:14 -0500 From: "Lee J Mensinger" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu, "Lee Mensinger" Subject: Re: feathered edges Message-ID: <3725EB79.1ECA857E@wireweb.net> Mike, One of the ways I have done the feathered edge is to use a soft lead pencil to markoff the edges of the second most used color in the camouflage. ( I painted the whole plane, or large areas that I know will suffice, in the #1 color). Crank the airbrush down to the finest spray I can get, by testing on a piece of cardboard box, then spray the marked outlines first making an area that is well outlined and can be filled in later. You do the same for each color. From most used to least used. A good airbrush should be able to make a line about 1/32nd of an inch or less. This is the only way I know to do freehand painting. Maybe Robert Karr or one of the others, has a suggestion that is better Try this on any old piece of cardboard and get your skill up to speed. I am sure you can do it. It is not essential that you practice on models. That is too expensive. Use boxes you are going to throw away. Available, replaceable and cheap. Even a heavy paper sack from the grocery store is suitable for testing and practice. Tape big pieces of it to a box. Sketch in your lines and go for it. ;-) Lee mkendix wrote: > Thanks to all those people who responded to my clear parts painting > question. I have now filed that information away. > > My next question is to ask what methods folks use for airbrushing > feathered (as opposed to hard) lines for camouflage patterns. > > I know this is probably old stuff to most experienced persons so I > apologize in advance to them. But, if I don't ask, I won't know. > > Thanks, > > Michael > > mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 09:32:26 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: feathered edges Message-ID: <199904271651.JAA00226@elvis.fltdyn.com> Michael asks: > My next question is to ask what methods folks use for airbrushing > feathered (as opposed to hard) lines for camouflage patterns. For 1/72 scale, I use 3x5 card (or similar-strength card stock) cut to shape and held slightly off the painted surface with blue tak material. (This is stuff that is used to stick things temporarily to white boards/walls - I get mine in bars reminiscent of "Bit O' Honey" candy at the local office supply store.) Anyway, if you can't find that stuff (or I may have described it so poorly you have no idea of what I'm trying to convey!), I've read of other people using balled-up tape. Whatever the substance, the idea is to get the mask **just** off of the surface (say 1-1.5 mm) and to spray directly AT it from a distance. Too close, or too high an air pressure, and you'll force the mask onto the surface and get a sharp line rather than feathered. Too much of an angle, and you'll get "creep" under the mask or too far from where you really want the demarcation line. In larger scales - I freehand it where appropriate. Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 11:16:27 -0600 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990427111627.007b1540@mail> At 12:42 PM 27/04/99 -0400, you wrote: >This is one of those things like >painting dinosaur models - none of the Penlight Police can really prove >whatever nit-picking point they want to try and make. Oh, but they'll try all the same! >Tom Cleaver > Dane ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:36:52 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <700f170f.24574fb4@aol.com> In a message dated 99-04-27 13:21:16 EDT, you write: << Oh, but they'll try all the same! >> That's why you grab their penlight away from them, and after determining that they do not have a model at the show (and likely have never completed a model they have started) you then threaten to place said object sideways in a painfully private orifice if they don't return back under whichever rock it was they oozed out from under in the first place. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:01:40 +0200 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Cutting rib tapes , was: what's on .. Message-ID: <199904271751.TAA28853@golf.dax.net> Matt (+ whoever might be interested) The item is called an "Adjustable rib index" (I think). I have the only one in Norway! I got from the following guy: Jim Jones 36631 Ledgestone Drive Clinton TWP., MI 48035-1618 I don't remember what it cost, but it was worth every dollar. Write him and tell him Tom sent you. (Again thanks to whoever it was on the list that put me on to him) Tom Werner ---------- > From: Matthew E Bittner > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: What's on your work bench? > Date: 26. april 1999 21:58 > > On Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:40:23 -0400 (EDT) "Tom Werner Hansen" > writes: > > > Rib tapes: narrow strips of low tack "blue" 3M tape cut with an > > instrument > > acquired from the US after a tip by somebody on this list which can > > make > > the most incredibly exact narrow (or wide) strips. > > Yes, please! > > > Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:50:13 -0400 (EDT) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: Tom: Of course, I'm not experienced at attending shows (only been to one), and IPMS meetings (only been to 5) but "Some of my best friends own penlights". One fine bloke at our local IPMS owns one so he can see cockpit work (I caught him peering into my SE5a last time) and does not make any adverse comments. He's a pretty good modeller too; makes stuff and brings it to meetings. I think penlights might be alright but what you need to watch out for is someone with both a penlight and one of those dental mirrors! Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu On Tue, 27 Apr 1999 Albatrosdv@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 99-04-27 13:21:16 EDT, you write: > > << > Oh, but they'll try all the same! > >> > That's why you grab their penlight away from them, and after determining that > they do not have a model at the show (and likely have never completed a model > they have started) you then threaten to place said object sideways in a > painfully private orifice if they don't return back under whichever rock it > was they oozed out from under in the first place. > > Tom Cleaver > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 11:02:57 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <199904271759.KAA02325@elvis.fltdyn.com> Tom Cleaver writes: > That's why you grab their penlight away from them, and after determining that > they do not have a model at the show (and likely have never completed a model > they have started) you then threaten to place said object sideways in a > painfully private orifice if they don't return back under whichever rock it > was they oozed out from under in the first place. Ah, dearie me. Such imagery. Yet another satisfied competition participant. Having been exposed to the frustrations of attempting to reason with (or at least humor) the species "Knowsitall Butbuildsnoughtus", I can understand the venting of such emotions. In the meanwhile, I yearn for a day when we could return to the model SHOWS - leave the trophies to the Freudianly envious. (Not that I don't have a couple, now!! ;-) Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:07:45 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: In a message dated 99-04-27 13:58:35 EDT, you write: << Of course, I'm not experienced at attending shows (only been to one), and IPMS meetings (only been to 5) but "Some of my best friends own penlights". One fine bloke at our local IPMS owns one so he can see cockpit work (I caught him peering into my SE5a last time) and does not make any adverse comments. He's a pretty good modeller too; makes stuff and brings it to meetings. I think penlights might be alright but what you need to watch out for is someone with both a penlight and one of those dental mirrors! >> As you will discover in your visits to shows and meetings, there is a difference between Good Modelers - equipped with penlights or not - and The Penlight Police. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:12:12 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <2bccafb3.245757fc@aol.com> In a message dated 99-04-27 14:05:06 EDT, you write: << Having been exposed to the frustrations of attempting to reason with (or at least humor) the species "Knowsitall Butbuildsnoughtus", I can understand the venting of such emotions. In the meanwhile, I yearn for a day when we could return to the model SHOWS - leave the trophies to the Freudianly envious. (Not that I don't have a couple, now!! ;-) >> I love to go to shows - how do you think I ever met the marvelous RK??? I'm still trying to figure out what to do with the bloody *Second* (behind a really superb "Me-246" - the 1946 Luftwaffe license-built Dinah with the high altitude performance modifications) I got for Major Modification (for the B.Mk.IV from an F.B.VI using the Monogram nose done in the March IM) at TamiyaCon - it *ruined* an absolutely *perfect* reputation!! :-) Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 11:46:26 -0700 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: penlight people/ Message-ID: <003301be90de$86a8c720$5313c0d8@bill> Several years ago I was into competive modelling. It's useful in that it forces you to get better. I gave it up after a couple of years, because it is a different world, you have to build what you think will win, rather that what you want to build. You also have to build against deadlines, which takes a lot of the fun away. What finished me off was doing a 72 scale Lightning for the big UK IPMS show, from the hasegawa kit. Great job, well detailed, good paintwork, then just before the show out comes the IPMS journal with a rundown on all the inaccuracies of the Hasegawa kit........ Bill Neill ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:20:07 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <199904271920.MAA05439@mail.rapidnet.net> Karl, If the a/c in question is an early D.III from the 1916 order, then it is more likely to have been in three colour camo then the later two colour. However as the serial is unknown, it is just as likely to have been an aircraft from the second or third production batches, which would have been in mauve/green. Then again, the wings could have been recovered in lozenge :-) When the Albatros Fighters Special was written it was assumed that there was just the red-brown/green or mauve/green camouflage on D.IIIs. However in more recent years it has been discovered that the early Albatros D.IIIs were in fact in Brunswick Green, Olive Green, and Venetian Red (red-brown). Rimell himself has published this in Greg VanWyngarden's Flying Circus Special. Regards, Bob Pearson Visit my WW1 aviation page at http://members.xoom.com/Sopwith_5F1 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:52:59 -0400 (EDT) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: ww1 Russian site Message-ID: I found an excellent Russian WWI aeroplane site at http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Battlefield/7561/ww1a.htm My favourite picture is the Sopwith Triplane on Lebed (sp?) skis. You could make this in 1/72nd scale using the Revell kit and the left over skis (if you used the wheels) in the Dako Sikorski S.XVI. Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:59:48 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros "spigot" Message-ID: <19990427.161250.-849669.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Tue, 27 Apr 1999 06:33:39 -0400 (EDT) "Diego Fernetti" writes: > Brian Nicklas A former list member. FYI. Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:37:00 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: Tom, > As you will discover in your visits to shows and meetings, there is a > difference between Good Modelers - equipped with penlights or > not - and The Penlight Police. As founding father of "The Colour Police Hunting and Taxidermy Society" (discussed here these many moons ago) I am wondering whether I should put a motion to the society to add a Special Interest Group (SIG) for those interested in shooting and stuffing members of the Penlight Police. To keep it cheap, and thereby save modelling budget, I suggest that members still wear the approved CPHTS kilt and sporran, but as a sign of the added affiliation, perhaps a tasteful lozenge bowler could be worn - to keep off the light. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:51:35 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: penlight people/ Message-ID: Bill, > Several years ago I was into competive modelling. It's useful > in that it forces you to get better. I still am, and this is true, though in my case I'd been trying to improve with every model for 20 years before i ever entered a contest. > you have to build what you think will win, rather that > what you want to build. I don't know that this is true though. I build whatever I like and leave it up to the judges. I seem to have a little success despite avoiding huge, garish, and fashionable subjects which I am so often told are a "requirement" > You also have to build against deadlines, which > takes a lot of the fun away. I guess this is true, though only if you commit to entering particular contests. After one unhappy experience I now enter what is finished, and leave the "22 hours a day for the last week" rush to those who *must* > What finished me off was doing a 72 scale Lightning for the > big UK IPMS show, from the hasegawa kit. Great job, well > detailed, good paintwork, then > just before the show out comes the IPMS journal with a > rundown on all the inaccuracies of the Hasegawa kit........ Come to Brisbane in August and bring the Lightning. Judges are strictly verbotten to judge against their *own* knowledge of a subject, and only the contestant provided references are allowed to be considered against the model for accuracy. Leave the IPMS journal at home ! ...To be serious about it.....I love contests. Like many Aussies I am a moderately ferocious competitor, and like most of my compatriots and the Pommies who bequeathed us our sporting value system I like to do it for the *fun* of it and have a beer with the winners afterwards. So penlights are best used to enhance enjoyment (and if getting one inserted somewere turns you on, so be it :-), Shane ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:47:49 EDT From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: RE: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <8dada9bf.24578a85@aol.com> In a message dated 4/27/99, 5:36:52 PM, wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu writes: <> There is another way to deal with the dreaded "death ray" brigade. A gentleman added a figure inside his tank looking up at the hatch and flipping the bird. The only way to see it was to shine a flashlight in the loaders hatch. I'm currently toying with the idea of putting the Flintbone "Farmer Ron" figure inside a turret. For those of you who have not seen this figure, it comes with it's own sheep. Y'all follow? :) Glen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:10:14 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: Karl writes: >Hi All!, > >I've been lurking on this list for a few weeks now and am quite >impressed--everyone deserves a round of applause for making this a great >group. I'm a long-time modeler (all OT acft) and have just recently >worked up the nerve to try some WWI modeling. Karl, Welcome to the list! You've obviously picked a very intersting subject for your first WWI build - it's already sprouted two threads: one on judging, and one on Alb D.III wing colour. You will find that our list members have a wealth of knowledge on the most obscure subject matter. Good luck on your build, and if you don't finish it for three years, you'll still be ahead of most of us (except Dennis and Richard, who can pump out models like there's no tomorrow). As IRA would say, "Have Fun!" Kevin Barrett. nb: This is my self-imposed deadline night for the Toko Nie.11 Slam Dunk completion. Fortunately, the Ottawa/Buffalo game is on too, so the model bench is moving to the TV room. Gut-check time for Ottawa. Rigging sprue is stretched and painted. All decals are on, sealed and the model is flat-coated for weathering. So tonight is: weathering, prop, detail painting, future, armament and onto the shelf... jl(just lost): My LVG C.VI (again!!!), which crashed and was rebuilt last year, got knocked off the shelf by the cat yesterday. For good measure, the little bastard jumped down and tap danced on it - just to be sure it was "more broke" than the last time. It's gone into an old chocolate box and will be resurected in a few years...I just can't face it again right now. Time for a cabinet. jfr(just finished reading): Wind in the Wires and A Few of the First. Great books. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:13:40 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: <4bbdeaa7.24579094@aol.com> In a message dated 99-04-27 17:36:52 EDT, you write: << As founding father of "The Colour Police Hunting and Taxidermy Society" (discussed here these many moons ago) I am wondering whether I should put a motion to the society to add a Special Interest Group (SIG) for those interested in shooting and stuffing members of the Penlight Police. To keep it cheap, and thereby save modelling budget, I suggest that members still wear the approved CPHTS kilt and sporran, but as a sign of the added affiliation, perhaps a tasteful lozenge bowler could be worn - to keep off the light. Shane >> ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:15:59 EDT From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: penlight people/ was: Albatros D.III Colors Message-ID: In a message dated 99-04-27 17:55:27 EDT, you write: << There is another way to deal with the dreaded "death ray" brigade. A gentleman added a figure inside his tank looking up at the hatch and flipping the bird. The only way to see it was to shine a flashlight in the loaders hatch. I'm currently toying with the idea of putting the Flintbone "Farmer Ron" figure inside a turret. For those of you who have not seen this figure, it comes with it's own sheep. Y'all follow? :) Glen >> ROTFLMAO *again*!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:25:39 -0500 From: "The Shannons" To: Subject: Re: Warneford's Morane Parasol 3253 Message-ID: <002d01be9105$a06cc720$3a215dcf@default> You've about got it, but the plane carries FRENCH roundels on the wings and British roundels on the fuselage. Rudder is blue fore, in my references. The fabric would have been a normal clear dope linen color, maybe a bit more to the yellowish light brown shade with aging effects and dark brown-black longeron tapes on the corners of the whole "box". Nose panels could be white, might be natural metal after all of the blacking stripped off from the castor oil bath these types got. Wheels are light, probably white, struts are hard to tell, might be light, I think blackened. I am not certain these are absolutely correct on the overall markings, myself, but these are how I did mine based on the best references I had. Mark Shannon -----Original Message----- From: Dave Wadman To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 2:24 PM Subject: Warneford's Morane Parasol 3253 >Hi everyone, >Could anyone shed some light on the colours worn by Warnefords' Morane >No.3253 in which he downed Zeppelin LZ37? > >I have two photos of this aircraft which show it in what appears to be >an overall darkish doped linen with the edges of the fuselage sides >trimmed in a dark (black?) colour. The wing and fuselage roundels >appear to be in the standard RFC style with the outer ring blue, but the >stripes on the rudder appear to have the blue first rather than the >red? The cowling appears to be natural metal or white and the fabric >covering of the wheel centres is also a very light colour which suggests >white to me. > >I'd be most appreciative of any info that anyone could pass along. > >Many thanks > >Dave W. > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1550 **********************