WWI Digest 1535 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps by Matthew E Bittner 2) Whoops! by Matthew E Bittner 3) Strutters by Matthew E Bittner 4) attention figure modelers! by "Diego Fernetti" 5) IM by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 6) Re: Sorry? Same Kit questions by Dennis Ugulano 7) Re: Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII by Dennis Ugulano 8) RE: Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII by "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" 9) Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps by "David Vosburgh" 10) Off topic requests by "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" 11) RE: Sorry? Same Kit questions by "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" 12) RE: attention figure modelers! by Shane Weier 13) Re: Sorry? Same Kit questions by "Mark Shanks" 14) Re: Sorry? Same Kit questions by "Mark L. Shannon" 15) Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps by "Bill Neill" 16) Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps by "Steven M. Perry" 17) Another Kit questions by "Diego Fernetti" 18) Re: Another Kit questions by Lubos.Vinar@euronova.cz 19) RE: Sorry? Same Kit questions by Shane Weier 20) RE: Another Kit questions by Shane Weier 21) Re: Strutters by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 22) Re: Another Kit questions by Dennis Ugulano 23) Re: Strutters by Matthew E Bittner ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 05:35:40 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps Message-ID: <19990413.053846.-821141.2.mbittner@juno.com> On Tue, 13 Apr 1999 01:39:45 -0400 (EDT) Brent & Tina Theobald writes: >Here is what I think went wrong and what to do to fix it, but I am >interested in your input. I think the lead was too soft. I need to use >a >harder lead. Or, I can draw them on using a very fine technical pen. >I >think I like the latter idea because it is truly black and I will >have >better line width control. The only drawback is it is very >unforgiving. > >What do you think? If you gloss before putting on the black ink, then gloss again, you should be okay. I did this on an off-topic biplane where I needed thin, black outlines. I used the black, Micron Pigma .005" marker put out by Sakura, of Japan, which you can find at the better art stores (and I think I have seen them at the likes of Hobby Lobby). If you're not satisfied with your line, wet your finger and swipe it off. For the most part most of it will come off. However, practice first if you're unsure. Matt Bittner nb: Top wing on the Strutter!! YES! Now to avoid anymore late night modeling... ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 06:07:58 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Whoops! Message-ID: <19990413.060857.-801311.0.mbittner@juno.com> Sorry list. Didn't see where the address was coming from when I replied to Brent's message. Now you know how much of a heathen I am. :-) Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 06:08:55 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Strutters Message-ID: <19990413.060857.-801311.1.mbittner@juno.com> Anybody have both the Toko and Flashback Strutters that can provide a side by side review? I can't see how anybody can improve on the Flashback, but I'm leaving my mind open. Hopefully Toko molded the exhaust channel and kingpost. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:07:58 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "WW1 mailing list" Subject: attention figure modelers! Message-ID: <000801be85a6$4543f720$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi list: What do think about this? Item JA61616 http://jaguarmodels.com/ Neat, uh? D. PS: hey boys, keep out those eyes out of JA61805! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:22:28 -0500 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: IM Message-ID: Alright--where did you guys put Internet Modeler while I was gone last week? Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:36:44 -0400 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Sorry? Same Kit questions Message-ID: <199904130838_MC2-71B7-33B@compuserve.com> Rob, >> Sikorsky Ilya Murometz by a Russian company called Maquette. << I built this kit right after it was released. A year or so later it was upgraded by ICM and I understand the ICM is a much better kit. I don't have one to give you a comparison. Using three Windsock articles, the kit can be modified into a nice looking model. It is very large, approaching 1 1/2' wingspan. And if you are into rigging, the kits has miles of it. There is two hours of rigging just in the tail section. (I've Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies Page Revised 3/26/99 never been the same since. :-)) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:36:43 -0400 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII Message-ID: <199904130838_MC2-71B7-33A@compuserve.com> Matt, RE: Frank Luke decals. I don't if they are still available but Ministry of Small Aircraft Production sheet number 4828 has Luke's decals in 1/48. I have no idea who may carry them or if they are still available. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies Page Revised 3/26/99 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 06:42:01 -0600 From: "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII Message-ID: <5DA4C4BE65D9D111A6FC0060081FD218016CB528@SNEFFELS> Matt, Hah! Your timing is excellent! When I got home yesterday (after my original message, of course :-I)I found I had received the April flyer from Squadron. They have listed MF4808, Ministry of Small Aircraft Production sheet for the Spad XIII CI including Frank Luke. $7.00. Since they have it listed in the new flyer (and since it says "Back in Stock") I have to assume they have them in stock! Well done! Michael -----Original Message----- From: Satin, Michael N. (SHEP) [SMTP:Michael.Satin@shepards.com] Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 3:54 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII I have a set of quite detailed decals for him from PD Decals. I'm not sure where you might get them, but you might ask some of our friends from Down Under! Michael Satin -----Original Message----- From: Matt Bailey [mailto:mgbailey@my-dejanews.com] Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 2:46 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII Hello, Are there any decals currently available in 1/48 for Frank Luke Jr.'s Spad XIII? Thanks, Matt Bailey -----== Sent via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----- http://www.dejanews.com/ Easy access to 50,000+ discussion forums ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:19:31 -0400 From: "David Vosburgh" To: Subject: Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps Message-ID: <002d01be85b0$44f1fb00$6ed690d0@Pvosburg> I'm not sure this would help, but artists use an aerosol fixatif spray to keep pencil from smudging. Whether this would seal it against Future is uncertain, but most fixatif is shellac-based, which ought to stand up pretty well. Also, in re: technical pens, if you use a refillable pen like a Rapidograph, simply dilute the ink with distilled water & you get grey. DV -----Original Message----- From: Brent & Tina Theobald To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 1:46 AM Subject: Making Realistic Rib Caps >I tried drawing the rib caps on my Ilya Muromets using a fine lead >mechanical pencil. The lead was the soft HB type. It looked pretty good. >Unfortunately the coat of Future washed graphite around the wing. In >other words the pencil markings bled. > >Here is what I think went wrong and what to do to fix it, but I am >interested in your input. I think the lead was too soft. I need to use a >harder lead. Or, I can draw them on using a very fine technical pen. I >think I like the latter idea because it is truly black and I will have >better line width control. The only drawback is it is very unforgiving. > >What do you think? > >Thanks! > >Brent > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:43:57 -0600 From: "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Off topic requests Message-ID: <5DA4C4BE65D9D111A6FC0060081FD218016CB52A@SNEFFELS> Hey gang! I'm looking for some off topic items but nothing from Mess....... The first is a 1/32 decal sheet for Chuck Yeager's P-51D. I know that someone named Mustang International made a sheet. Does anyone have it (or any other I may not know of) that they want to get rid of? The next one is a bit closer to topic but much harder. I'd like to find a 1/16 Hasegawa Wright Flyer at a reasonable price. Chances are that they will reissue it in a couple of years (2003 is coming) but I'd like to see what I can find now. I'm not a collector, so box condition isn't all that important so long as the kit is in good shape. Hey, ya don't know if ya don't ask!;-> I've already posted to HyperScale's trading list, but thought I'd ask here. You can reply off list if you're embarrassed to admit having other than on-topic stuff. Thanks for indulging me! Now back to our regularly scheduled programming. Michael Satin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:50:02 -0600 From: "Satin, Michael N. (SHEP)" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Sorry? Same Kit questions Message-ID: <5DA4C4BE65D9D111A6FC0060081FD218016CB52C@SNEFFELS> I've seen several postings on the Ilya but not much on the MS yet, so here's my 2 shekels worth. I haven't built it, but do have it. It looks like a very nice kit, mid-Eduard production. Better than the E-III but not up to their present production standards. Still, a very interesting subject and a good treatment of it. Warneford's decals are in there (of course). If you like the airplane, I'd call it a no-brainer. Michael Satin -----Original Message----- From: roguerpj [mailto:roguerpj@mninter.net] Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 5:47 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Sorry? Same Kit questions This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE8514.F4A75640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sorry about the previous post I am not sure what is up If this comes = back the same way I will stop posting and wait foe Allen to reply to my = e-mail to him. Original message: ------------------------------- It never seem to fail. I get one kit started and I think, this will be the one I'll finish before buying the next. Then I need something, so it's off to the Hobby shop. I tell my self don't go look. The knife blades are in this aisle not.......... I think you know the rest. I found two kits. A Edward 1/48 Morane Saulnier Type L, and a Sikorsky Ilya Murometz by a Russian company called Maquette. I managed not to buy either yet, (by the layer of dust I did not think they were a hot item) because, I wanted to see what was know about these kits here. rob johnson ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE8514.F4A75640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sorry about the previous post I am = not sure what=20 is up If this comes back the same way I will stop posting and wait foe = Allen to=20 reply to my e-mail to him.
 
Original=20 message:
-------------------------------
It never seem to fail. I get one kit = started and=20 I think, this will be
the one I'll finish before buying the next. = Then I need=20 something, so
it's off to the Hobby shop. I tell my self don't go = look. The=20 knife
blades are in this aisle not..........
 
I think you know the rest. I found = two kits. A=20 Edward 1/48 Morane
Saulnier Type L, and a Sikorsky Ilya Murometz by a = Russian=20 company
called Maquette. I managed not to buy either yet, (by the = layer of=20 dust
I did not think they were a hot item) because, I wanted to see = what=20 was
know about these kits here.
 
rob johnson
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE8514.F4A75640-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:02:50 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: attention figure modelers! Message-ID: Diego, > What do think about this? > Item JA61616 http://jaguarmodels.com/ > Neat, uh? Nope. Simply couldn't recommend it at all. Looks *nothing* like Blackadder at all. ;-) > PS: hey boys, keep out those eyes out of JA61805! Oh, heck, now you tell me. And my wife away in New Zealand. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:50:07 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Sorry? Same Kit questions Message-ID: <199904131444.HAA10609@mailhost.fltdyn.com> Michael asks: > I have never dealth with NKR but I have received good reports; perhaps > other would care to comment. I will add my .02 worth - Earl is a fantastic man to deal with. Yes, we here in the colonies get a BIG break on prices; no WAY can I get things like ICM, Toko, PART p.e., or Huma cheaper here, and a deal like the one he's offering on the Ilya, well - simply irresistable. (How about a LIST project - a hundred Muromets - the mind boggles....) Anyway, he has a series of Web pages beginning at: http://www.ballarat.net.au/nkrmodels/ As they say on eBay - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:46:36 -0500 From: "Mark L. Shannon" To: Subject: Re: Sorry? Same Kit questions Message-ID: <199904131547.KAA25848@dfw-ix11.ix.netcom.com> I have built the MoS Type "L" kit, and did Warneford's markings. The kit is pretty good, not too difficult with a few tricky parts. 1. As with most of the Eduard kits of that vintage, the brass interior will probably not fit inside the fuselage. I did not check as to whether it was because the fuselage is too narrow, but the plastic is a bit thick, anyway. You will have to fit and adjust once you start removing plastic from the walls. 2. The landing gear is a bit complex, compared to most, because of the upside-down "W" strutting. I found that the tubes given for the axles and spreaders were much too long, but make sure you adjust everything so the axles fit smoothly through all three of the struts. 3. Look carefully at your references. The locations and support for the tail surfaces are non-existant, and you will want to make "hangers" to put everything on. I suggest replacing the elevator connecting rod with similarly-sized brass or piano wire (if I recall correctly, it's about .020"). The unit provided breaks easily, anyway, and the stronger rod will stand you in good stead when it comes to rigging the tailplane control wires. One possibility is to use the tubing they provide for the Hotchkis gun barrel. 4. I cut pre-painted decal strip to do the fuselage longeron tapes. It's by far the easiest way and there are no compound curves. 5. If you do the Warneford aircraft, study the piece for the bomb rack very carefully. There are a lot of bends, it is rather delicate, and it looks awful if anything gets kinked. 6. Replace the pump body with brass tubing (1/32nd). They give you one of those etched flat sheets that you are supposed to roll up in a tight tube. Yeah, right! 7. I ran a bead of epoxy along all the struts and shaped brass support pieces except for the control "V" under the fuselage. This gave a smooth rounded appearance rather than the flat piece of brass and added a lot of strength. Incidently, the pieces for the top strut and the center of the undercarriage "W" will _not_ bend 180 degrees into a flanged top piece. Maybe I did not anneal everything carefully enough, but they broke into the two sides after a little more than 120 degrees. You are almost better off making clean separations to begin with. 8. Test fit the tail skid many times, there are a lot of support struts and the thing just hangs off the fuselage. The engine really looks nice on this thing, and the interior is very open (I guess I'm ready for the Fe.2B and a Be2C, now) The finished plane is the gawkiest thing you've ever seen, but it really adds a lot to a collection. .Mark. ---------- > From: Satin, Michael N. (SHEP) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: RE: Sorry? Same Kit questions > Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 8:50 AM > > I've seen several postings on the Ilya but not much on the MS yet, so here's > my 2 shekels worth. I haven't built it, but do have it. It looks like a > very nice kit, mid-Eduard production. Better than the E-III but not up to > their present production standards. Still, a very interesting subject and a > good treatment of it. Warneford's decals are in there (of course). If you > like the airplane, I'd call it a no-brainer. > > Michael Satin > > -----Original Message----- > From: roguerpj [mailto:roguerpj@mninter.net] > Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 5:47 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Sorry? Same Kit questions > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE8514.F4A75640 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Sorry about the previous post I am not sure what is up If this comes = > back the same way I will stop posting and wait foe Allen to reply to my = > e-mail to him. > > Original message: > ------------------------------- > It never seem to fail. I get one kit started and I think, this will be > the one I'll finish before buying the next. Then I need something, so > it's off to the Hobby shop. I tell my self don't go look. The knife > blades are in this aisle not.......... > > I think you know the rest. I found two kits. A Edward 1/48 Morane > Saulnier Type L, and a Sikorsky Ilya Murometz by a Russian company > called Maquette. I managed not to buy either yet, (by the layer of dust > I did not think they were a hot item) because, I wanted to see what was > know about these kits here. > > rob johnson > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE8514.F4A75640 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > >
Sorry about the previous post I am = > not sure what=20 > is up If this comes back the same way I will stop posting and wait foe = > Allen to=20 > reply to my e-mail to him.
>
 
>
Original=20 > message:
>
-------------------------------
>
It never seem to fail. I get one kit = > started and=20 > I think, this will be
the one I'll finish before buying the next. = > Then I need=20 > something, so
it's off to the Hobby shop. I tell my self don't go = > look. The=20 > knife
blades are in this aisle not..........
>
 
>
I think you know the rest. I found = > two kits. A=20 > Edward 1/48 Morane
Saulnier Type L, and a Sikorsky Ilya Murometz by a = > Russian=20 > company
called Maquette. I managed not to buy either yet, (by the = > layer of=20 > dust
I did not think they were a hot item) because, I wanted to see = > what=20 > was
know about these kits here.
>
 
>
rob johnson
>
 
>
 
> > ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BE8514.F4A75640-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:34:24 -0700 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps Message-ID: <005b01be85c4$446f9480$7b3bc0d8@bill> The ink will run as well, with future. If you wait a long time for drying, and put the future on gently, it works for me without smearing about 50% of the time. Try spraying up some decal film in the color you need and cut it in strips. Bill Neill >Or, I can draw them on using a very fine technical pen. I > think I like the latter idea because it is truly black and I will have > better line width control. The only drawback is it is very unforgiving. > > What do you think? > > Thanks! > > Brent > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 12:38:09 -0400 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Making Realistic Rib Caps Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990413123809.00760a38@pop.mindspring.com> I use a different approach to rib taping in 1:72. I paint the whole top a lighter shade of CDL and the whole bottom a darker shade of CDL. these two colors are the rib tape colors. After a few days, this is necessary for thorough drying here, I take very thin strips of masking tape and mask the rib stations, then spray my main CDL color which is a shade between the previous two. When the strips of tape come up, you have lighter tapes on top. (2 layers of linen look lighter in the direct sun) and darker tapes on the bottom to represent the shadow effect of CDL seen from below. Cutting thin strips of masking tape is easy if the tape is smoothed down on a piece of glass and the strips are cut with a steel straight edge and new #11 blade. The sticking & pulling up of the tape helps reduce tack too. The taping is 100% easier than with decal strips, in fact the hardest part is waiting till the base coats are good & dry. The results are most natural. I'm working on a BE.2a now and one of the things I want to catch is the spar shadows seen when the wing is viewed from below. Once the undersides are taped and ready to shoot, I'll run two strips of masking tape spanwise over the tapes masking the rib stations. The rib masks should hold the spar masks off the surface just enough to give a feathered edge to the resulting spar shadow, as the spars were always the thichness of the rib cap strips away from the fabric and hence had a less sharp edge to their shadows. fwiw sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:48:22 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: Another Kit questions Message-ID: <000801be85cd$74a1c020$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi list: Having read all the cunning comments about the Ilya M. and MoS L kits, I'll abuse from your wisdom to ask about another kit. I found a 1/72 Vickers Vimy, whose brand I can't remember very well but it was "tech-something", manufactired in an eastern Europe country. The price of this kit was about $40 and it was pretty steep for my pocket, so I didn't took it from the shelf. Anyway I put it on reserve. Someone on this list know something about this kit? It is worth the price? I'm not a big fan of those brownish, greenish, PCish british planes, but I thought that it was a nice opportunity to get some fodder to my Fokkers ;-) D. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:19:49 +0100 From: Lubos.Vinar@euronova.cz To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Another Kit questions Message-ID: <41256752.0064A1E4.00@eurcomm1.euronova.cz> --0__=pHLoJC8PLEkcvamLF3SWjsb6ENUTbeICEp3UdVJJIeYhVoFY9OoS4gE2 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Disposition: inline Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable This kit it's sometime available in the Czech hobby shops. Is it old, b= ut nice Frog/Novo kit with photoetch parts and new decals. The price of this k= it (in Czech republic) was up to $20 (I cannot tell exactly). Odpov=ECzte pros=EDm - wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Komu: Multiple recipients of list Kopie: (Na v=ECdom=ED: Lubos Vinar/CZEURONOVA/EU/Ahold) P=F8edm=ECt: Another Kit questions = --0__=pHLoJC8PLEkcvamLF3SWjsb6ENUTbeICEp3UdVJJIeYhVoFY9OoS4gE2 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline Hi list: Having read all the cunning comments about the Ilya M. and MoS L kits, I'll abuse from your wisdom to ask about another kit. I found a 1/72 Vickers Vimy, whose brand I can't remember very well but it was "tech-something", manufactired in an eastern Europe country. The price of this kit was about $40 and it was pretty steep for my pocket, so I didn't took it from the shelf. Anyway I put it on reserve. Someone on this list know something about this kit? It is worth the price? I'm not a big fan of those brownish, greenish, PCish british planes, but I thought that it was a nice opportunity to get some fodder to my Fokkers ;-) D. Lubos Vinar http://fly.to/vinar - Personal homepage http://fly.to/vampmodel - VAMP - WWI kits mail order service --0__=pHLoJC8PLEkcvamLF3SWjsb6ENUTbeICEp3UdVJJIeYhVoFY9OoS4gE2-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 03:25:40 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Sorry? Same Kit questions Message-ID: Hi, I might as well add my tuppence worth, having built this two or more years ago. I'll take the liberty of using Marks commenst to save myself some typing. (Hey, it's 3am and I'm on vacation but have *still* been called in to work) > 1. As with most of the Eduard kits of that vintage, the > brass interior will probably not fit inside the fuselage. Mine *did* but it's a tight fit to the point of being *precise* so if your fuselage is justa fraction narrower it might not fit. However you *want* a tight fit so that the "fabric" doesn't mysteriously float away from the structure. If it's too tight check the fit of the cowling - at least one other I've seen was narrow overall and better fixed by shimming with 5 thou card to make the fuselage wider than by tedious and difficult thinning of the fuselage sides. > 2. The landing gear is a bit complex, compared to most, > because of the upside-down "W" strutting. Make a jig. I built the undercarriage complete onto a jig with a rectangular plate to represent the cockpit floor and holes, then transferred the completed unit to the fuselage. > I found that the tubes given for > the axles and spreaders were much too long, but make sure you adjust > everything so the axles fit smoothly through all three of the struts. Better still, don't use them. Why waste perfectly good tubing where a piece of brass rod or music wire wll work just as well and leave you with some nice gun barrel material. > 3. Look carefully at your references. The locations and > support for the > tail surfaces are non-existant, and you will want to make > "hangers" to put > everything on. I suggest replacing the elevator connecting rod with > similarly-sized brass or piano wire (if I recall correctly, it's about > .020"). The unit provided breaks easily, anyway, and the > stronger rod will stand you in good stead Concur absolutely. Mine was broken when I got it and a brass rod worked far better. > > 4. I cut pre-painted decal strip to do the fuselage longeron > tapes. It's by far the easiest way and there are no compound curves. Ditto. > 6. Replace the pump body with brass tubing (1/32nd). They > give you one of > those etched flat sheets that you are supposed to roll up in > a tight tube. Yeah, right! Ditto - ditto ! > > 7. I ran a bead of epoxy along all the struts and shaped > brass support pieces except for the control "V" under the fuselage. I agree that something done here improves the look immensely. My solution was to laminate the parts with 10thou card and sand to shape, but only after I couldn't get consistent size with epoxy and CyA. One addition. IIRC Eduard don't provide engine intake pipes, nor mark their position on the fuselage cheek panels. I drilled holes in the appropriate spots and inserted a length of brass tubing thinned at the ends and cut to match the photos. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 03:37:16 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Another Kit questions Message-ID: Diego > I'm not a big fan of those brownish, greenish, PCish british > planes, but I > thought that it was a nice opportunity to get some fodder to > my Fokkers ;-) You're tiny Fokkers should be careful. By the time PC.10 had become universal those brownish, greenish machines could bite ! Shane ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:48:48 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Strutters Message-ID: Matt asks: >Anybody have both the Toko and Flashback Strutters that can provide a >side by side review? I can't see how anybody can improve on the >Flashback, but I'm leaving my mind open. > >Hopefully Toko molded the exhaust channel and kingpost. > Matt, As hard as it is to believe that the Flashback Strutter could be surpassed, Toko has done it in some areas. 1) First of all, there is the price. The Toko Strutter is about $3 less expensive - but let's face it, they're both cheep. 2) Toko has the exhaust channel! 3) Toko's fuselage surface detail is better. 4) Gernerally, Toko's parts are finer and more delicate. The W struts are significantly thinner on the Toko kit. 5) Air vents on the Toko cowl are drilled out, unlike the Eduard (I Dremeled my Eduard cowling 6 weeks ago). 6) The Toko kit comes with a rack of four small bombs! Now, the downside - where the Eduard is better. 1) Toko has no PE or resin. 2) There is flash on the Toko parts. and most significantly... 3) The flying surfaces are covered in that damnable Toko fabric texture! Both kits have great decals. Well, Matt, there you have it. For the price, I think Toko has done it again. HTH Kevin Barrett. P.S.: Now someone answer my decal question!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:58:24 -0400 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Another Kit questions Message-ID: <199904131458_MC2-71C7-E9F9@compuserve.com> D. RE: Vickers Vimy This was originally a FROG kit that went to Russia when FROG went out of business. It was re-released some years later as NOVO. Its a nice kit and goes together well. Both kits I have are NOVO's. My reference material on prices is 10 years old so $40 may not be out of line for the kit. I'm surprised that no one has re-released it to get the price out of the sky. From what I can recall, the kit goes together well, I don't remember any major flash. The decals were for a very late war plane or you could do the one that flew the Atlantic. A nice kit but, like you, I hesitate paying $40. But Brownish, Greenish, PCish is not really a bad color. It kinda grows on you, like...... :-) Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies Page Revised 3/26/99 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:31:20 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Strutters Message-ID: <19990413.173148.-844387.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:40:39 -0400 (EDT) kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) writes: >Both kits have great decals. >Well, Matt, there you have it. For the price, I think Toko has done it >again. Thanks! Two more questions: What is the Toko's cockpit like? What Escadrille's come with the Toko kit? It *must* be built French, of course! ;-) Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1535 **********************