WWI Digest 1532 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by Pedro e Francisca Soares 2) Decal Help Needed by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 3) Re: Decal Help Needed by Modelhound@aol.com 4) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) 5) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 6) Re: More N17 Q's by "cameron rile" 7) Re: More N17 Q's by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 8) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by "Sandy Adam" 9) 1/48 working controls Was:Re: Details, details by "Michal Beran" 10) Re: More N17 Q's by Matthew E Bittner 11) Bending metal by Matthew E Bittner 12) Re: Bending metal by "David Vosburgh" 13) Re: Bending metal by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 14) Re: Bending metal by Matthew E Bittner 15) Re: Bending metal by Ernest Thomas 16) Re: Bending metal by "David Vosburgh" 17) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by Pedro e Francisca Soares 18) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by Pedro e Francisca Soares 19) Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers by Pedro e Francisca Soares ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 23:17:19 +0100 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <370FCDEE.4A6C340D@mail.telepac.pt> Dennis Ugulano wrote: > Perdo, > > Another idea just hit me with the knife. Use the back of the knife > to cut the circles. The point will still do the cutting but it won't cut > the template. > > Dennis Ugulano > email: Uggies@compuserve.com > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies > Page Revised 3/26/99 Well Dennis and gang, here's my report for the day: Profited from a bit of free time on a sunny and warm (30+ C) saturday to lay my first coats of paint on my camel (orange and white today, next will be red... this one will look quite colourful if I manage to finish it the way I intend to....) and also to try cutting one or two frisket circles. The white, as I expected, brought out some imperfections in the seams that will need attending to and a new coat of paint but the orange covered up oh so beautifully.... The circles...oh the circles... first I tried the straight pin approach but I ended up with rough edges on the circles. No good. Then I tried the blunt side of the needle and it would still eat the plastic template... best results was with a new 11 blade used normally with lots of care but it's really very hard and the blade kept sliding to the plastic. What I need probably is a metal template, but I've never seen such a device. I've searched for the circle cutting devices Mike mentioned at a couple of artists supplies shops but all I've found were obnoxiously expensive compasses sets that have a tiny revolving blade adapter that will do perfect cuts, but those are really out of question. Guess I'll have to cut a few plastic templates until I get what I need :-). Another problem I have are the tail numbers. Anyone knows of a decal sheet with white outlined black tail numbers that will fit a Camel rudder? I need the Serial E 7232. Can anyone help? Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 18:57:03 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Decal Help Needed Message-ID: Hi List, I have a few old decal sheets which were originally covered with the manufacturer's ubiquitous wax paper. Over the years, moisture(?I think?), reacting with and binding the wax paper and decal finish, has created a translucent milky "mottling" on the surface of the decals. I've used such "mottled" decals in the past, and am unsatisfied since the effect does not seem to go away during the application or sealing process. So my question is: are such "mottled" decals salvagable? How do you get rid of the mottling? Or, are the decals permanently ruined once they've reacted with the "protective" wax paper? Let me know. Thanks, Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 18:53:42 EDT From: Modelhound@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Decal Help Needed Message-ID: <3126808c.24413076@aol.com> I have some Blue Max Nieuport 28 decals with the same problem. I'd really like to know the answer to this one myself. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 23:22:41 GMT From: lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <370fdc63.3427438@legend.firstsaga.com> On Sat, 10 Apr 1999 18:31:43 -0400 (EDT), you wrote: >The circles...oh the circles... first I tried the straight pin approach but I >ended up with rough edges on the circles. No good. Then I tried the blunt side >of the needle and it would still eat the plastic template... best results was >with a new 11 blade used normally with lots of care but it's really very hard >and the blade kept sliding to the plastic. What I need probably is a metal >template, but I've never seen such a device. Hi Pedro, If you can lay your hands on one of the cheap dime-store compasses you might be able to use some wire and lash a #11 blade to the side that normally holds the pencil. These are really cheap compasses...the kind where you slide a regular pencil into the holder not the type found at the art store...more like a Wal-mart or equivalent. Len ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:04:47 -0700 (PDT) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <199904110304.UAA19419@compass.OregonVOS.net> Pedro wrote: >Well Dennis and gang, here's my report for the day: -snips- >The circles...oh the circles... first I tried the straight pin approach but I >ended up with rough edges on the circles. No good. Then I tried the blunt side >of the needle and it would still eat the plastic template... best results was >with a new 11 blade used normally with lots of care but it's really very hard >and the blade kept sliding to the plastic. What I need probably is a metal >template, but I've never seen such a device. I've searched for the circle >cutting devices Mike mentioned at a couple of artists supplies shops but all >I've found were obnoxiously expensive compasses sets that have a tiny revolving >blade adapter that will do perfect cuts, but those are really out of question. >Guess I'll have to cut a few plastic templates until I get what I need :-). Have you tried this approach: cut a piece of clear decal sheet slightly larger than the desired diameter, then tape the decal sheet to the underside of the plastic template under the template hole of the correct diameter. Spray -lightly- through the hole, let dry until the paint sets up (not completely dry), remove decal and repeat as needed. This doesn't, of course, give you circular masks but it does give you perfectly round decal circles in the size and color desired which can then be applied to the model. I've used this approach satisfactorly a couple of times. The only caution is to keep the spray light so that it "sets" almost immediately after hitting the decal film. You don't want liquid paint accumulating so that it either runs outside the circle or sticks to the template and leaves a 'ragged" edge when ya' remove the decal. It's kinda a slow process as you've gotta clean up the template of paint and let it dry between circle productions but it does seem to work well and has been the only technique I've found for building roundels of unusual diameters and/or colors. Anyway, if you'd be satisfied with appropriately sized decals rather than appropriately sized masks, you might give it a try. Cheers, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "You don't need a weather man to know which way the wind blows." -Bob Dylan- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 23:47:04 -0300 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: More N17 Q's Message-ID: <199904102048146@cameron.prontomail.com> >Either with Fotocut p/e, or someone (Woody Vondracek?) >makes a rub on. thanx Why does the material at the top of the fuselage between the cowl and cockpit appear darker in some pictures to the material on the sides of the N17. It doesnt seem to be a shadowed effect. cam ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail and Homepage at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:54:43 -0700 (PDT) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: More N17 Q's Message-ID: <199904110454.VAA04104@compass.OregonVOS.net> Cam writes: >Why does the material at the top of the fuselage between >the cowl and cockpit appear darker in some pictures to the material >on the sides of the N17. It doesnt seem to be a shadowed effect. I would assume that it is a photographic artifact resulting from the differences in the angles of reflection between the top and the sides. The "shadowed effect" may contribute to this as well. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "You don't need a weather man to know which way the wind blows." -Bob Dylan- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 10:06:49 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <199904110906.KAA26956@beryl.sol.co.uk> > Another problem I have are the tail numbers. Anyone knows of a decal sheet with > white outlined black tail numbers that will fit a Camel rudder? I need the > Serial E 7232. Can anyone help? > Pedro Pegasus/Blue Max do a sheet with all variations of serial numbers and styles that fits 1/72 & 1/48. It includes white Sopwith rectangle fields and number outlines for rudder markings. Very useful, if a little fiddly to use - but you need to buy to two sheets as styles are mostly represented singly. Probably shown on their web page - and post free internationally. HTH Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 15:04:14 +0200 From: "Michal Beran" To: Subject: 1/48 working controls Was:Re: Details, details Message-ID: <199904111121.NAA10468@jenicek.cm-sec.cz> Shane, great work and inspiration for many of us. Well, the next step?: 1/48 working controls - this means: One takes a pair of tweezers and very gently moves the control stick - ailerons and elevator move accordingly. Another man brave enough takes the needle and slightly touches the rudder bar - and again, what a wonder, the rudder moves in the proper direction. Happy modelling Michal ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 10:34:23 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: More N17 Q's Message-ID: <19990411.103728.-844971.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 10 Apr 1999 23:49:36 -0400 (EDT) "cameron rile" writes: >Why does the material at the top of the fuselage between >the cowl and cockpit appear darker in some pictures to the material >on the sides of the N17. It doesnt seem to be a shadowed effect. If you look closely at the material between the cockpit and cowl *period* - sides, top, and probably bottom - it all appears to be a different shade. That's because this area is primarily wood. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 10:40:02 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Bending metal Message-ID: <19990411.104054.-844971.2.mbittner@juno.com> Having difficulty with a certain model's struts, I now find myself having to scratch new ones, preferrable out of metal. Brass is the first choice. However, I want an angled bend. What I have been getting so far using pliers is a rounded bend - by rounded I mean at the apex, where the bed occurs. Any hints? I may try to hold down a ruler to get a better bend, but any ideas would be appreciated. TIA! Matt Bittner nb: grumble grumble grrr...never model late at night/early in the morning when you're tired ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 12:50:29 -0400 From: "David Vosburgh" To: Subject: Re: Bending metal Message-ID: <000a01be843b$8682ab80$64d690d0@Pvosburg> I've never had much luck bending sharp angles in brass. For the N struts on my Fok. D.VI I cut three pieces and soldered them with my $8 Sears pencil iron, which worked really well and gives them immense strength... but that was in 1:48. You might try clamping the rod/wire in a vise and tapping it with a small peening hammer or other blunt instrument for anything up to 90o, but beyond that you'd have to get (more) creative for the angles if you don't want to piece 'em together. I've got some info on soldering for modeling if you want it, in case you (or anyone else) don't have anything pertinent. Easy, cheap & kind of fun. DV -----Original Message----- From: Matthew E Bittner To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 11:41 AM Subject: Bending metal >Having difficulty with a certain model's struts, I now find myself having >to scratch new ones, preferrable out of metal. Brass is the first >choice. However, I want an angled bend. What I have been getting so far >using pliers is a rounded bend - by rounded I mean at the apex, where the >bed occurs. Any hints? I may try to hold down a ruler to get a better >bend, but any ideas would be appreciated. TIA! > > >Matt Bittner > >nb: grumble grumble grrr...never model late at night/early in the >morning when you're tired > >___________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 13:21:42 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Bending metal Message-ID: >I've got some info on soldering for modeling if you want it, in case you (or >anyone else) don't have anything pertinent. Easy, cheap & kind of fun. > >DV > Dave, Post it! Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 12:47:49 -0500 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Bending metal Message-ID: <19990411.124750.-844603.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sun, 11 Apr 1999 12:49:13 -0400 (EDT) "David Vosburgh" writes: >I've got some info on soldering for modeling if you want it, in case >you (or >anyone else) don't have anything pertinent. Easy, cheap & kind of >fun. Yes, please! Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 13:05:48 -0500 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Bending metal Message-ID: <3710E47C.224E@bellsouth.net> David Vosburgh wrote: > > I've never had much luck bending sharp angles in brass. For the N struts on > my Fok. D.VI I cut three pieces and soldered them with my $8 Sears pencil > iron, I'm with you on this one Dave. And it's really not all that hard. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 15:08:25 -0400 From: "David Vosburgh" To: Subject: Re: Bending metal Message-ID: <001b01be844e$f3a2c980$81d690d0@Pvosburg> -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Thomas Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 2:10 PM Subject: Re: Bending metal > >I'm with you on this one Dave. And it's really not all that hard. >E. > Very true... not hard at all. I always thought soldering was some esoteric art that you had to learn through long hours of practice, and then I picked it up in an afternoon or two after reading Paul Budzik's article in FSM a while back. The main points are to keep the surfaces butted as closely as possible, and to make sure they're CLEAN even before dabbing the joints with flux. The strength it imparts to a kit is amazing. If the top wing on the D.VI were a little bigger chordwise I could use it as a coaster to set beers on. Anybody else who wants the files I have on the subject, let me know off-list. DV ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:18:14 +0100 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <3710F575.7117A388@mail.telepac.pt> Sandy Adam wrote: > . > > Pegasus/Blue Max do a sheet with all variations of serial numbers and > styles that fits 1/72 & 1/48. It includes white Sopwith rectangle fields > and number outlines for rudder markings. > Very useful, if a little fiddly to use - but you need to buy to two sheets > as styles are mostly represented singly. > Probably shown on their web page - and post free internationally. > HTH > Sandy Thanks for the info Sandy Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:20:23 +0100 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <3710F5F6.45279FB8@mail.telepac.pt> Bill Shatzer wrote: > Pedro wrote: > > > Have you tried this approach: cut a piece of clear decal sheet slightly > larger than the desired diameter, then tape the decal sheet to the > underside of the plastic template under the template hole of the > correct diameter. Spray -lightly- through the hole, let dry until > the paint sets up (not completely dry), remove decal and repeat as > needed. > Bill, Thanks a lot, but it won't work for what I have in mind. I really need to mask a semi-circle but this is only part of a more complex pattern. Thanks for your help. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:23:34 +0100 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: cutting circles, Colourful Camels and tailnumbers Message-ID: <3710F6B5.32D74E9@mail.telepac.pt> Leonard Endy wrote: Hi Pedro, > > If you can lay your hands on one of the cheap dime-store compasses you > might be able to use some wire and lash a #11 blade to the side that > normally holds the pencil. hey Len, That might be the answer. Good one. I'll check at the local supermarket next week. Thanks. BTW, did you get the translation? I've had messages bouncing back and disappearing, this last few days (the Melissa effect?) so please let me know. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1532 **********************