WWI Digest 1510 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: S.E.5a Instrument panel by Albatrosdv@aol.com 2) Cutting control surfaces by "R. Godfrey" 3) Windsock 15/2 and DF74 by "Sandy Adam" 4) Re: Getting the Boot by "Sandy Adam" 5) RE: Cutting control surfaces by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 6) Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 by Carlos Valdes 7) Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 by "cameron rile" 8) Re: Cutting control surfaces by "Steven M. Perry" 9) Bertrab's D.III (was Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74) by Bob Pearson 10) RE: DVIII by Shane Weier 11) Bye Bye by BStett3770@aol.com 12) Re: Cutting control surfaces by Pedro e Francisca Soares 13) Re: Cutting control surfaces by Pedro e Francisca Soares 14) Re: DVIII by Pedro e Francisca Soares 15) Re: Cutting control surfaces by philippe.spriesterbach@ping.be (Philippe Spriesterbach) 16) Re: Bent wings by mgoodwin@ricochet.net 17) Re: Nieuport question by Matthew E Bittner 18) Scale by Matthew E Bittner 19) Re: DVIII by Paul Gabert 20) Some interesting data by "Robert Woodbury" 21) Re: DVIII by "roguerpj" 22) Re: Cutting control surfaces by Ashley9862@aol.com 23) Re: DVIII by "roguerpj" 24) change from E-V to D VIII by "roguerpj" 25) Re: change from E-V to D VIII by "Lee J Mensinger" 26) Re: change from E-V to D VIII by Albatrosdv@aol.com 27) Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 28) Re: DVIII by KarrArt@aol.com 29) Re: change from E-V to D VIII by Albatrosdv@aol.com 30) Re: Some interesting data by "Bill Neill" 31) Re: Cutting control surfaces by "Bill Neill" 32) RE: change from E-V to D VIII by Shane Weier ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:19:06 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: S.E.5a Instrument panel Message-ID: In a message dated 99-03-24 10:18:08 EST, you write: << I have some pictures of the SE5a's instrument panel but it appears from some sources that the Vickers gun extends into the cockpit through the top port side of the instrument panel. Does anyone have any information on this? >> The answer is, yes, I do, and yes, it does. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 13:35:00 -0600 From: "R. Godfrey" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <4.1.19990324132144.009bf100@pop.sound.net> Hello Group, I have a rather simple question with, I'm sure, many answers. What is the best way you've found to cut out the ailerons, rudder and elevators to set them at a more realistic angle. I've done it with a very sharp scalpel but it takes many, many cuts. My Excel knife with a fine saw blade makes a very rough and wide cut. My Dremel melts the plastic even a low speed. I keep thinking of a very fine wire hooked to a big battery so the wire gets very hot and will slice smoothly through the plastic cleanly and on the line but not melt it into blobs. I'm afraid that would take some engineering, electrical and mechanical. I'd appreciate any ideas any of you may have to do a neater job on this little detailing detail. Thanks as always, Bob G. ___________________ RG-KC-US rgodfrey@sound.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 14:25:42 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: "AAA - WW1 Group" Subject: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 Message-ID: <199903241636.QAA10112@beryl.sol.co.uk> Latest WS is very thought provoking - excellent article and pictures on a German camouflage scheme that was certainly new to me - "bubble" scheme on Zeppelin C.II(Ja) machines - looks very psychedelic! Also a pic I hadn't seen before of Jacobsen's Alb D.III 2090/16 after repainting with another very strange peacock mottle camouflage. Unfortunately no colours are known. Good articles on Issoudin Nieuport colours and Woodman on the Baltic campaign. Oh and a colour layout of Bertrab's D.III - not that anybody here is interested in that! Latest DF on FE8, I find very useful although amongst all the failures and losses, it fails to mention the fact that Richthofen was shot down by one. RR announces publishing latest "Classics of WW! Aviation" - Fokker Fighters D.I - D.IV. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:55:56 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Getting the Boot Message-ID: <199903241321.NAA01963@beryl.sol.co.uk> > I keep getting un subscribed automatically. .... Who said that? Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 13:50:59 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <01BE75FD.5A0B0580.panz-meador@vsti.com> bob: "hot wire" cutting is used for many things, among them cutting mirrors. since you want a find cut/kerf, you'd be using a very fine wire. this implies you don't need a large battery, since the resistance of the wire goes as one over the diameter squared, and you won't have much resistance in a single loop. for your set-up, you'd probably want a straight section of fine steel wire held in a jig of some sort, a battery, and a multi-turn rheostat. the rheostat lets you control the temperature as you desire. the simplest case would be a "C" shaped jig with the wire closing the open side of the "C" to make a "D". then you'd move the part with respect to the stationary filament to do your cutting. HTH, phillip -----Original Message----- From: R. Godfrey [SMTP:rgodfrey@sound.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 1:34 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Cutting control surfaces Hello Group, I have a rather simple question with, I'm sure, many answers. What is the best way you've found to cut out the ailerons, rudder and elevators to set them at a more realistic angle. I've done it with a very sharp scalpel but it takes many, many cuts. My Excel knife with a fine saw blade makes a very rough and wide cut. My Dremel melts the plastic even a low speed. I keep thinking of a very fine wire hooked to a big battery so the wire gets very hot and will slice smoothly through the plastic cleanly and on the line but not melt it into blobs. I'm afraid that would take some engineering, electrical and mechanical. I'd appreciate any ideas any of you may have to do a neater job on this little detailing detail. Thanks as always, Bob G. ___________________ RG-KC-US rgodfrey@sound.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 15:16:51 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 Message-ID: <36F94833.7255@conted.gatech.edu> Thanks for the preview, Sandy; that Bertrab item should be most interesting. So, what color is the comet deemed to be? Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 16:13:30 -0500 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 Message-ID: <199903241315383@cameron.prontomail.com> Sandy wrote : "it fails to mention the fact that Richthofen was shot down by one." The only Australian to be claimed as a victory by MvR was in an FE8. cam AFC page at : http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/PointCook/index.htm ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail and Homepage at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 16:44:51 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990324164451.007295fc@pop.mindspring.com> At 02:34 PM 3/24/99 -0500, you wrote: >Hello Group, > >I have a rather simple question with, I'm sure, many answers. What is the >best way you've found to cut out the ailerons, rudder and elevators to set >them at a more realistic angle. Bob: A jeweler's saw with a fine blade will do the short cuts straight into the wing. A Bare Metal Foil Panel Line Scriber will make the longer spanwise cuts. This tool also takes many strokes to cut, but it actually removes plastic rather than pushing it aside like a scapel blade. Makes a remarkable difference. The first stroke or two with the scriber need a straight edge. I often find that the plastic tape used in the label maker tools for embossed labels makes a perfect stick on straight edge. hth sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 13:54:50 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Bertrab's D.III (was Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74) Message-ID: <199903242154.NAA32638@spare.rapidnet.net> > Oh and a colour layout of Bertrab's D.III - not that anybody here is > interested in that! Sandy, What colours are shown? I have been working with a fellow off-list on this very topic for a small article on my page and perhaps for publication elsewhere and am curious as to what Rimell feels it to be. Ray Trochim (and myself now that he has convinced me) believe it was most likely black with a red-outlined white fuselage cross, Ray feels the comet motif may be in any of the following combinations (I *prefer* red/white for asthetics sake) #1 Light blue and mauve #2 Light blue and yellow #3 Light blue and maybe orange #4 Light blue and dark blue #5 Anybody's guess. I have a profile done in my prefered colours for anyone wanting to see it now.. Later I will present the various options both Ray and I feel it could be in an article on my page. And yes I know the one presently on my profile page is purple .. that was what the Windsock caption said ten years ago when I painted it :-) If Jacobsen's Albatros is the one I am thinking of, it was fetured in OTF a few years back in two stages of its painting. . before and after all the flowers were added Regards, Bob Pearson Visit my WW1 aviation page at http://members.xoom.com/Sopwith_5F1 Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.avsim.com/mike/awn/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:07:40 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: DVIII Message-ID: Diego, > In those photographs I was thinking. In fact, I wonder if the > black paint of Osterkampf's fuselage would permeate trough > the doped lozenge and distinctly "blacken" the printed fabric. No. When the fabric is doped it becomes entirely watertight. Soaking in a solvent like fuel might eventually penetrate it, but a brushed or sprayed coat won't. View the interior of a PC.10 aircraft to see that the fabric is still ligh buff in colour. Interior loz will be lighter than exterior because the dye apparently doesn't soak all the way through from the rollers when it's made. Painting the exterior black might reduce the amount of light which might shine through and make it duller, so the interior would be a degraded and reversed rendition of the exterior, rather than a lightened and reversed rendition. IMHO anyway Shane ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 17:00:56 EST From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Bye Bye Message-ID: <11afb8b1.36f96098@aol.com> Hi Gang Unsubing for a few days Off the the IPMS Convention in Pittsburgh Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:31:58 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <36F959CD.1A9B20@mail.telepac.pt> "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" wrote: > .for your set-up, you'd probably want a straight section of fine steel wire > held in a jig of some sort, a battery, and a multi-turn rheostat. the > rheostat lets you control the temperature as you desire. the simplest case > would be a "C" shaped jig with the wire closing the open side of the "C" to > make a "D". then you'd move the part with respect to the stationary > filament to do your cutting. > And when you're done with it, try the pin method I told you about.....;-) Pedro Sorry Phillip, couldn't resist it Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:26:34 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <36F95889.1E1F5402@mail.telepac.pt> "R. Godfrey" wrote: > Hello Group, > > I have a rather simple question with, I'm sure, many answers. What is the > best way you've found to cut out the ailerons, rudder and elevators to set > them at a more realistic angle. . > > Bob G. > > _. Bob, I usually score the aileron, rudder and elevators hinge line from both sides of the part with a straight pin held in a pin vice, or a thin needle held in a mechanical pencil, until they separate. Use a straight edge if you feel the lines are not deep enough and don't try to do it in one or two cuts only. It's quite easy, try it... HTH Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:39:00 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: DVIII Message-ID: <36F95B73.BD08918A@mail.telepac.pt> Lee J Mensinger wrote: > Diego, in the Models and General Images section of the WW I site I have a photo > of the inside of a full size Fokker E-5 (Grandfather to the D VIII) interior and > you can see exactly what it looks like from the engineless front end of the > fuselage. And how nice they are. Thanks Lee, and keep us updated on this project. Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 23:10:18 GMT From: philippe.spriesterbach@ping.be (Philippe Spriesterbach) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <36fd6593.17265286@relay.ping.be> On Wed, 24 Mar 1999 14:34:25 -0500 (EST), you wrote: >Hello Group, > >I have a rather simple question with, I'm sure, many answers. What is the >best way you've found to cut out the ailerons, rudder and elevators to set >them at a more realistic angle. I've done it with a very sharp scalpel but >it takes many, many cuts. My Excel knife with a fine saw blade makes a >very rough and wide cut. My Dremel melts the plastic even a low speed. >Bob G. For cut this parts in vacforms, I use only a very sharp needle mounted on a handle. If I do this in an injected kit, I use a Verlinden fine razor saw. It's slow to do, but for me it work perfectly. Regards -- Philippe Spriesterbach One of the (numerous) Mad Scratchbuilders http://www.ping.be/phillipe_models/ philippe.spriesterbach@ping.be IPMS Belgium Member #F015 IPMS Brussels Secretary ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 04:15:50 -0800 From: mgoodwin@ricochet.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Bent wings Message-ID: <36FA28F5.2D46@ricochet.net> David Kinnear wrote: > > I tried hot water from the tap. No joy. I'm being really carefull with my > Pfalz, so I'm crapping it at trying anything drastic. Actually, *almost* boiling water is fairly safe, but caution is definitely warranted. I'm fortunate in that the only wing I lost to boiling water was from an Esci Albatross, which is inaccurate in almost every way except thickness anyway. Good part to "learn" on... I tried a heat gun on my Smer Albatros, and almost lost the upper wing, but was albe to salvage it. I would recommend straightening any wing before trimming it or thinning, as the thin training edge is the most vulnerable to curling distortion. Also, bear in mind that not all kit styrene has the same heat deflection properties- I think the softer it is, the more prone to heat distortion. FWIW, Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:17:31 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Nieuport question Message-ID: <19990324.183135.-823703.3.mbittner@juno.com> Thanks for all for the responses. I will make it look like a "boot" on the inside then. Matt Bittner nb: Will start putting on the Strutter decals tonight. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:19:03 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Scale Message-ID: <19990324.183135.-823703.4.mbittner@juno.com> Remember when I "trolled" the list asking for who builds in what scale? Well, besides the odd 1/24th, or 1/35th, the breakout is as follows: 1/72nd: 20 1/48th: 23 Gads...we have some catching up to do. ;-) Oh, and I haven't had time yet to tabulate the "most wanted" votes, so please be patient... Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:41:06 -0500 From: Paul Gabert To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: DVIII Message-ID: <36FAE5B2.A67B708B@cpis.net> Albatrosdv@aol.com wrote: > Which kit are you doing? Both the DML and the Eduard 1/48 releases have > accurate cockpits so you really don't need to worry all that much. > > Tom Cleaver There are a few significant differences in the two kit cockpits. The DML model part A14 is a blank panel (no instruments) while the Eduard model part PE 36 is a three (unidentified) instrument panel. The DML kit features a single instrument on the machineguns support, bar the Eduard does not. The Eduard kit also features the fuel guage, part PE 35 and another unidentified instrument part PE 22. To add further confusion, the Koster kit features 5 or 6 instruments and bezels and the instructions state "Instruments location varied from plane to plane, being fastened to the tubing structure with clips". Which is correct? Instrument panel or scattered individual instruments? I've seen the Datafile but don't remember seeing much on the cockpit. Paul G. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:59:03 +0800 From: "Robert Woodbury" To: Subject: Some interesting data Message-ID: <000001be7663$0e9a84c0$91107482@robertw-pc-fl.per.clw.csiro.au> G'Day All, Doing a bit of bed time reading last night on German fighter types in the first World War I was amazed to read that some 170 fighter types (of these about 40 were produced in numbers of 20 or more) were built by the Germans in the 4 years of the war. If these are the figures for fighter aircraft alone, how many of other types were built? Logistics must have been a nightmare! And what about the Allies- numbers of types produced? Cheers, Rob ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:08:42 -0600 From: "roguerpj" To: Subject: Re: DVIII Message-ID: <007801be7664$690fc180$05f99ed0@robjohn.swdata.com> WOW :0 :0 :) I never some small questions would produce such a electronic out poring thanks to you all for the help I will continue to pick you brains as problems come up. I think I have enough detail on the cockpit to go ahead. (Thanks Lee for pointing out the obvious place to look.) I just needed to see the inside to figure out what materials are present and how to paint what is a good start in the DML kit that I have. (Michael if you get to scanning that article I would not turn it down but don't go out of your way to get it done the photos on the wwi site are going to keep me occupied for awhile.) The real issue for me now is a color scheme. (can't paint the reverse of something if you don't know what the front looks like.) David, I would be vary interested in seeing the info you have (especially the color profiles). I thinking about trying Theo Osterkampf's colors, but I have yet to see them, so I am open to suggestions and or photos. rob johnson ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:01:48 EST From: Ashley9862@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <68b6f36.36f9990c@aol.com> I have a way to cut control surfaces quickly and effectively.....like dropping the surfaces on the Eduard Hannover in about 1 minute for each surface.....sewing thread. Here's what I do.... Drill a small hole at a place where there is a control surface corner...the hole is just a little larger than the diameter of the thread you are going to use. Then take a piece of regular sewing thread....cotton old fashioned sewing thread. I must of tried about 10 different threads...old fashioned cotton is best. Then use it like dental floss. Put the surface in a vice, thread through one of the holes, then start "sawing" in the direction you want to go. In a few seconds, the friction starts to melt the plastic away. You'll find the right speed to cut the line straight. If you go too fast it may get jagged, too slow and you get tired. When done, just clean up the joint with sandpaper. I've also tried to scribe the line out a little before I start my sawing operation...primarily to give me a better "eyeball" on my cutting.....but the scribing doesn't improve or reduce the quality of the cut. Candice ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:28:40 -0600 From: "roguerpj" To: Subject: Re: DVIII Message-ID: <003401be7667$35148980$05f99ed0@robjohn.swdata.com> -----Original Message----- From: Shane Weier To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Wednesday, March 24, 1999 4:12 PM Subject: RE: DVIII >Diego, > >> In those photographs I was thinking. In fact, I wonder if the >> black paint of Osterkampf's fuselage would permeate trough >> the doped lozenge and distinctly "blacken" the printed fabric. So, I under stand this correctly. The faberic was painted over after it had been doped? > >No. When the fabric is doped it becomes entirely watertight. Soaking in a >solvent like fuel might eventually penetrate it, but a brushed or sprayed >coat won't. View the interior of a PC.10 aircraft to see that the fabric is >still ligh buff in colour. > This is true. to get a really good idea of this effect visit your local theater and ask to see the back side of the flats. This is a pine frame that has unbleached muslin streached over it. To "dope" the faberic a mixture (50/50) of water an good old elmers white glue is applyed (usualy brushed on thou it can be roled or sprayed). The front is then painted. If you are lucky thay have a drop. (some thing except no frame.) that has be dyed as well as painted. You may be thinking i am nuts (I think that was addresed in a previous post regarding Shane's work), but most scene shops are glad to trade ideas and would find it a plesent deversion. (anyone in MN aera can e-mail me off list and arange a visit to the shop I work in.) Rob ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:09:36 -0600 From: "roguerpj" To: Subject: change from E-V to D VIII Message-ID: <006001be766c$efbf74c0$05f99ed0@robjohn.swdata.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BE763A.9F50B580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable These posts got me wondering. Why was the E-V's designation changed to D = VIII. I know that E- stands for Ein or one in German and that the D = Stood for doppel or two. Why call something a spade (or a rose for that = matter) if it is not a spade???? rob ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BE763A.9F50B580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
These posts got me wondering. Why = was the E-V's=20 designation changed to D VIII. I know that E- stands for Ein or one in = German=20 and that the D Stood for doppel or two. Why call something a spade (or a = rose=20 for that matter) if it is not a spade????
 
 
rob
------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BE763A.9F50B580-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 22:11:31 -0600 From: "Lee J Mensinger" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: change from E-V to D VIII Message-ID: <36F9B772.B5EEE543@wireweb.net> Sorry to rock the "EIN boot". E also stands for ERPROBEN which means try, test or prove. In a past tense it can also mean tried, or approved. Erprobungesellschaft means Research and Developemtnt sSection, Group or what ever. Lee roguerpj wrote These posts got me wondering. Why was the E-V's designation changed to D VIII. I know that E- stands for Ein or one in German and that the D Stood for doppel or two. Why call something a spade (or a rose for that matter) if it is not a spade???? > > rob > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 22:50:09 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: change from E-V to D VIII Message-ID: <7484387e.36f9b271@aol.com> Why a change?? Because Fokker was nothing if not a salesman. The D.VII was good and never suffered structural failures. So a D.VIII must be almost as good as a D.VII, right? Certainly better than that E.V with the wing that falls off!! Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:22:16 -0800 (PST) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Windsock 15/2 and DF74 Message-ID: <199903250422.UAA09982@compass.OregonVOS.net> cam rile wrote: >Sandy wrote : >"it fails to mention the fact that Richthofen was shot down by one." >The only Australian to be claimed as a victory by MvR was in an FE8. James Stuart was born in Australia and is generally acknowledged as MvR's no. 41 while piloting an RE.8. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "You don't need a weather man to know which way the wind blows." -Bob Dylan- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 23:11:21 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: DVIII Message-ID: <73f2b306.36f9b769@aol.com> In a message dated 3/24/99 2:49:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, pnsoares@mail.telepac.pt writes: << Lee J Mensinger wrote: > Diego, in the Models and General Images section of the WW I site I have a photo > of the inside of a full size Fokker E-5 (Grandfather to the D VIII) interior and > you can see exactly what it looks like from the engineless front end of the > fuselage. And how nice they are. Thanks Lee, and keep us updated on this project. Um abraco Pedro >> Nice pic Lee! Yeah- keep us updated! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 23:18:50 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: change from E-V to D VIII Message-ID: <13d79b57.36f9b92a@aol.com> In a message dated 99-03-24 23:13:44 EST, you write: << Sorry to rock the "EIN boot". E also stands for ERPROBEN which means try, test or prove. In a past tense it can also mean tried, or approved. Erprobungesellschaft means Research and Developemtnt sSection, Group or what ever. Lee >> Likely true - but I still put money on my reason for him choosing D.VIII, which has nothing to do, designation-wise, with a monoplane otherwise. Any review of the rest of his career shows this kind of thinking would be perfectly in character. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:12:14 -0800 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Some interesting data Message-ID: <009101be7678$05b5b4a0$5f19c0d8@bill> One of the fascinating things about WW1 was that aircraft types could appear, become boss of the sky for a while, and be obsolete in about a year. Contrast to today, when B52s are still in the combat front line 50 years on. Bill Neill >G'Day All, > >Doing a bit of bed time reading last night on German fighter types in the >first World War I was amazed to read that some 170 fighter types (of these >about 40 were produced in numbers of 20 or more) were built by the Germans >in the 4 years of the war. If these are the figures for fighter aircraft >alone, how many of other types were built? Logistics must have been a >nightmare! And what about the Allies- numbers of types produced? > >Cheers, >Rob > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:05:08 -0800 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Cutting control surfaces Message-ID: <009001be7678$04447160$5f19c0d8@bill> There are some very thin saw blades made by Airwaves, among others. They will fit in a regular Swann Morton scalpel handle. The blades are etched steel foil, about 6 in a set. Bill Neill > >I have a rather simple question with, I'm sure, many answers. What is the >best way you've found to cut out the ailerons, rudder and elevators to set >them at a more realistic angle. I've done it with a very sharp scalpel but >it takes many, many cuts. My Excel knife with a fine saw blade makes a >very rough and wide cut. My Dremel melts the plastic even a low speed. > >I keep thinking of a very fine wire hooked to a big battery so the wire >gets very hot and will slice smoothly through the plastic cleanly and on >the line but not melt it into blobs. I'm afraid that would take some >engineering, electrical and mechanical. > >I'd appreciate any ideas any of you may have to do a neater job on this >little detailing detail. > >Thanks as always, > >Bob G. > >___________________ >RG-KC-US >rgodfrey@sound.net > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 14:24:52 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: change from E-V to D VIII Message-ID: Tom, > Why a change?? Because Fokker was nothing if not a salesman. > The D.VII was > good and never suffered structural failures. So a D.VIII > must be almost as > good as a D.VII, right? Certainly better than that E.V with > the wing that falls off!! Mmmm. Sounds like A.R.Weyl is your prime source on the doings of Anthony Fokker. OTOH, while there *was* a publicity reason why the nomenclature was changed, so was the aircraft in minor ways. This was principally to do with waterproofing of the interior of the wing to prevent the structural failures. A simple name change is one way of indicating the improved version and hopefully reducing the pucker factor for pilots. Getting back to Fokker and Weyl, it has become a widely held opinion that Fokker was an absolute a***hole. Much, though not all, of this is directly attributable to AR Weyls now largely discredited biography. I expect that the truth of the matter is somewhere between Fokkers own account and Weyls. Shane ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1510 **********************