WWI Digest 1469 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Web page update, again by REwing@aol.com 2) Hanriot by REwing@aol.com 3) Re: Hanriot by Bob Pearson 4) Re: Hanriot by REwing@aol.com 5) Re: Windsock observations by KarrArt@aol.com 6) Re: Hanriot by KarrArt@aol.com 7) Re: Further notes on Aeroclub kits by Albatrosdv@aol.com 8) Re: Dumb question about wetsanding... by Mike Fletcher 9) RE: Web page udate, again by "Diego Fernetti" 10) That time of the month by Bob Pearson 11) Re: French colors by Matthew E Bittner 12) Re: That time of the month by Matthew E Bittner 13) Re: Guitar playing WW-1 modelers? by "cameron rile" 14) RE: "Memorial Flight" Web Page by graham.nash@citicorp.com 15) Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 16) Re: Guitar playing WW-1 modelers? by GRBroman@aol.com 17) Junkers D-I Vacuform by Allan Wright 18) Re: Guitar playing WW-1 modelers? by Allan Wright 19) Re: Upcoming Aeroclub kits by GRBroman@aol.com 20) Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question by mkendix 21) Re: Triplane tails by "Bill Neill" 22) Re: Triplane tails by "Mark Shanks" 23) Re: Perfectionists by "Bill Neill" 24) Off-topic - sorry - Fi 156 by mkendix 25) Re: Perfectionists by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 26) Re: Perfectionists by "Mark Shanks" 27) Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question by "richard eaton" 28) Re: Junkers D-I Vacuform by "richard eaton" 29) Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question by "richard eaton" 30) Re: Further notes on Aeroclub kits by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 31) RE: Off-topic - sorry - Fi 156 by "Richard Caudron" 32) Re: Oberursel to Clerget by "Tom Werner Hansen" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 01:34:48 EST From: REwing@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Web page update, again Message-ID: Pedro wrote: << Now you've done it!!!! Ernie is not the only one to hate you. I do to and if you keep showing us such wonderful stuff I'm sure you'll get an anti-Dennis club within the list pretty soon. ;-) >> I must apologize to this list. I was the one that convinced Dennis he really belonged here. Little did I know he actually BUILDS models! I'm shocked! I thought the ones he brought were several years old. Next time, I'll check out a guy's credentials before hand. ;^} -Rick- nb:Eduard Hanriot (very nice kit) nu: Finish all the other "nb" projects!! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 01:37:22 EST From: REwing@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Hanriot Message-ID: Hello all, Could someone provide me with the correct pronunciation for this aircraft? I know I'm not saying it correctly. TIA -Rick- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:28:42 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Hanriot Message-ID: <199903010628.WAA22019@spare.rapidnet.net> Han re oh Bob ---------- > From: REwing@aol.com > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Hanriot > Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 01:37:59 -0500 (EST) > > Hello all, > > Could someone provide me with the correct pronunciation for this > aircraft? I know I'm not saying it correctly. TIA > -Rick- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 01:49:45 EST From: REwing@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hanriot Message-ID: << Han re oh Bob >> Thanks Bob, that was fast! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 01:57:11 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Windsock observations Message-ID: <59bbfac3.36da3a47@aol.com> In a message dated 2/28/99 9:11:13 PM Pacific Standard Time, sdw@qld.mim.com.au writes: << > > I'd love to see more of Colin Owers stuff. I'll ask him Shane >> Why, thank you young man! RK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 01:57:33 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Hanriot Message-ID: <5edf539c.36da3a5d@aol.com> In a message dated 2/28/99 10:51:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, REwing@aol.com writes: << << Han re oh Bob >> Thanks Bob, that was fast! >> That's our "Legs"! RK ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 03:23:38 EST From: Albatrosdv@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Further notes on Aeroclub kits Message-ID: <8f823c88.36da4e8a@aol.com> I had an e-mail from John today. His first priority is finishing the Meteor 11/13/14 night fighters which will be released over the summer starting in May (at risk of being taken from the temple and burned at the stake, hooray! I love first-generation jets as much as WW1). The B.E. series has their molds about completed, and the first of them will be out later this year. The D.H.5 has its fuselage done, and the F.E.8 has its wings done. BTW - for those who are really nuts, he and another guy are working on a 1/48 mixed-media Canberra series B.2/B.6/B(i)8/PR.10, and perhaps a B-57. Tom Cleaver ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 01:46:09 -0800 From: Mike Fletcher To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Dumb question about wetsanding... Message-ID: <36DA61E1.F850CE96@mars.ark.com> wimp! Just spit on the paper - just make sure to use wet and dry and not the cheap stuff which'll fall apart when it gets wet the best kind is denim backed - when you've finished sanding you can polish with it or clean it out, and it lasts forever - I am still using some I got during the gulf war. I find it reduces scratching as well, as you can use finer grades. Ernest Thomas wrote: > > Suvoroff@aol.com wrote: > > > > I apologize for asking such a stupid question, but I have heard about wet > > sanding for years, and I have to ask a couple of questions; > > > > 1) Why? How is this superior to drysanding? > > > James, > The water acts as a lubricant which allows the grit to cut better. And > the water also helps keep the sand paper from clogging up. > > > 2) What do you mean, wet sand? Just a little water to make the sandpaper > > damp, or sand the item under the running water in the sink, or what? > > > Keep a bowl of tap water on the bench next to you and just dip the paper > in the water as needed to keep it wet. Don't forget to use paper(or > film) made for wet or dry sanding. > It's no big trick and I think you'll like the results. > > > Excuse my ignorance. > > Only the desire to remain ignorant is inexcusable. > E. Isn't ignorance supposed to be bliss though? ;) -- Mike Fletcher ___ ., mdf@mars.ark.com |-\|^----! ; mikef@sparc.nic.bc.ca |--n--""*" icq=19554083 @ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 07:36:14 -0300 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Web page udate, again Message-ID: <009a01be63cf$55c35f80$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> -----Mensaje original----- De: Dennis Ugulano > Albatri up coming. I am presently working on four of them at the >same time. 1/72 of course. I got them last week. Should be finished in >another week or so. That is, IF, I take my time. I was holding out, but now, my glass is full. I hate you too, Dennis, where I can sign up for the Hating Club? D. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 02:31:25 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: That time of the month Message-ID: <199903011031.CAA22884@spare.rapidnet.net> Greetings all, Once again I get to beat Pedro and Matt to the announcement - comes in handy not putting the front page up until we check it first - The latest Internet Modeler is now up. . not much WW1 content this time beyond a first look at Barry's Farman F.40bis (which I have given to the most hated builder on the list. . so we should expect it to be done next week) Regards, Bob Pearson Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.avsim.com/mike/awn/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 05:04:19 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: French colors Message-ID: <19990301.052455.-831215.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:21:13 -0500 (EST) Shane Weier writes: >> Black - the sum of all colors ;-) > >..the *absence* of all colours.. Whoops! Thanks. Sorry. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 05:19:45 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: That time of the month Message-ID: <19990301.052455.-831215.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Mon, 1 Mar 1999 05:42:50 -0500 (EST) Bob Pearson writes: >Once again I get to beat Pedro and Matt to the announcement - comes in >handy >not putting the front page up until we check it first - The latest >Internet >Modeler is now up. . not much WW1 content this time beyond a first >look at >Barry's Farman F.40bis (which I have given to the most hated builder >on the >list. . so we should expect it to be done next week) Super! A Dennis Farman. That would be great. Oh, and what Bob said - how about a Breguet V, Barry? :-) IM is doing just fine...even with the lack of content. :-) Some artist who remains nameless (but not leg-less :-)) is also doing off topic artwork. Hmmm... Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 07:49:59 -0500 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Guitar playing WW-1 modelers? Message-ID: <199903010452421@cameron.prontomail.com> >>>> So, who amongst us besides Bob "Legs" Pearson, Robert Karr, and myself are guitar players? <<<< I played in a band around Sydney when I was younger called "The Others", we were an original band and sucked pretty band, we did a 16 track demo and then promptly collapsed under the weightof late teenage aggresion, infighting and angst lol. I played in a few more original bands till I was about 25. The bass player of the first band played with "Splash" and recorded to vinyl ( am I aging or what? ). All my guitars are in Aust, when I came over here I bought two crap ones and must admit I havent played in 3 months despite a nephew who is always wanting to jam. cam AFC page at : http://members.xoom.com/PointCook/index.htm ---- ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail and Homepage at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 13:39:05 +0000 From: graham.nash@citicorp.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: "Memorial Flight" Web Page Message-ID: <199903011341.IAA11950@egate.citicorp.com> I'm having to unsubscribing for a indefinate period:^(. RobertK, MattB and Bulent Yilmazer re: C&C US. That will be fine. Please let me have your respective snail mails. TTFN ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 08:20:05 -0600 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question Message-ID: I spent some time looking at my Blue Max Junkers J9/DI this weekend, trying to get psyched up to start it. I checked the wings, and sure enough, the port wing top has the infamous "wave" molding flaw on it. It looks like I can take it down by using a small riffler file and carefully smoothing down the plastic between the corrugations, then using a sanding block to barely smooth off the tops of the corrugations. We'll see. Now a question. When applying decals (wing crosses) to corrugated surfaces such as those on the DI, a setting solution is mandatory. However, by getting the decal material to "fill in" between the corrugations, the width dimensions of the dry decal should now be narrower than when it would be applied to a flat surface. Would this effect detract from the finished model, or would I be better off making my own new decals to allow for this, or even painting on the markings to keep the correct dimensions of the markings? Thanks. Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:15:47 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Guitar playing WW-1 modelers? Message-ID: In a message dated 2/28/99 8:12:25 PM EST, Modelhound@aol.com writes: > So, who amongst us besides Bob "Legs" Pearson, Robert Karr, and myself are > guitar players? I played geetar for a country western band to help finance my college education. Most folks seem to think that neither one was particularly noteworthy.... Glen ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:37:46 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi Subject: Junkers D-I Vacuform Message-ID: <199903011437.JAA14572@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Paul's questions sparked one of my own. I'm about to get a couple of items done on my workbench, one of them the Albatros C-I vacuform. I always have 1 vac and several resin/injections going at once. When I finish one, I start another. That way I never have to many going at once, and some in all stages of completion, to suit my mood. If I'm in the mood for filling/sanding there's one there for that. Airbrishing, always one ready for paint, etc. Well, to get to the point, my next project is a 1/72 vacuform Junkers D-I. I think this is from Wargirds, but not sure. Well, here's my quesiton: Since the wings are molded in 1 piece with dihedral built in (for the bottom surface of the wing) how do you remove it from the card and not butcher it? Last time I tried this model I destroyed the darned thing. -Allan =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:38:32 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Guitar playing WW-1 modelers? Message-ID: <199903011438.JAA14583@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > In a message dated 2/28/99 8:12:25 PM EST, Modelhound@aol.com writes: > > So, who amongst us besides Bob "Legs" Pearson, Robert Karr, and myself are > > guitar players? Although this is interesting, I think it may be an off-list topic. -Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:16:02 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Upcoming Aeroclub kits Message-ID: In a message dated 2/28/99 10:11:42 PM EST, mbittner@juno.com writes: > There is a shop is St. Louis that - when I was there - carried all of the > Aeroclub line. I think it's called CRM, but maybe one of our St. Louis > contingent can help better. CRM is going to be at the Quad Cities Show in Moline Illinois on March 27th, if that's close to any of you. I'm not sure what they pack along but they reserved five tables. Might be a little far for Matt, but I, Bob Horton, Bob Sheldon and a few other guys from the Chicago Cross and Cocked will be there and Greg Vanwyngarden may be coming, I'm not sure. Bob Horton has been helping the local National Guard unit restore a WW I German artillery piece (1:1 scale modeling at its finest). Of course, who else but a WW I modeler would have any idea about the paint schemes used. They will also have the artillery piece on display at the show. Maybe I can talk my wife into letting me restore an FT-17 in the garage......... Glen ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:46:59 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question Message-ID: Paul: This is related to another technique question that I have. How do people deal with the decals that go across "cracks and spaces"; for example, when you build the model with the aileron down and a space opens between it and the rest of the wing? Do you cut the decal first and apply it to 2 seperate places, or apply the decal whole and cut it at the space/join? Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Paul Schwartzkopf wrote: > I spent some time looking at my Blue Max Junkers J9/DI this weekend, trying to get psyched up to start it. I checked the wings, and sure enough, the port wing top has the infamous "wave" molding flaw on it. It looks like I can take it down by using a small riffler file and carefully smoothing down the plastic between the corrugations, then using a sanding block to barely smooth off the tops of the corrugations. We'll see. > > Now a question. When applying decals (wing crosses) to corrugated surfaces such as those on the DI, a setting solution is mandatory. However, by getting the decal material to "fill in" between the corrugations, the width dimensions of the dry decal should now be narrower than when it would be applied to a flat surface. Would this effect detract from the finished model, or would I be better off making my own new decals to allow for this, or even painting on the markings to keep the correct dimensions of the markings? Thanks. > > Paul A. Schwartzkopf > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 08:54:00 -0800 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Triplane tails Message-ID: <00a201be6404$ad317920$7d8c9ad1@bill> Ok, I got about figured out the Sopwith Triplane tail rigging, the tailplane incidence screw jack is just forward of the stern post, it projects out of the bottom of the fuselage and the lower rear tailplane bracing wires go to it. The other end of the screw jack goes up inside the fin to the upper rear bracing wires. That's why the upper wires go into a slot in the fin. Doing the bottom bit is ok, I just put a piece of rod into the fuselage. Don't know how I am going to get a slot into the fin at this late stage. Maybe just put a little bit of black decal and hope nobody notices.... (A modeller I used to hang out with, much better and more patient than me, would make two indentical models in parallel, one was a rough build to figure everything out, the other one benefitted from the mistakes..) Bill Neill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:11:58 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Triplane tails Message-ID: <199903011701.JAA23405@mailhost.fltdyn.com> Bill Neill writes: > (A modeller I used to hang out with, much better and more patient than me, > would make two indentical models in parallel, one was a rough build to > figure everything out, the other one benefitted from the mistakes..) I love to hear stories like this. I print 'em out and give them to my wife, so that she can be assured that yes, there ARE people out there nuttier than me. Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:28:20 -0800 From: "Bill Neill" To: Subject: Re: Perfectionists Message-ID: <00c401be6408$f0c7e260$7d8c9ad1@bill> In the same club there was a guy who only made one model (a 72nd Zero) for the two years I was there. He said there was no point in making a lot of bad models when he could make one good one. It had a scratchbuilt Sakae engine with (he claimed) 600 individual parts, all the cylinders were stacks of discs of different diameters. He would put more work into the jig for the map case than I could get into a whole model. Bill Neill > >> (A modeller I used to hang out with, much better and more patient than me, >> would make two indentical models in parallel, one was a rough build to >> figure everything out, the other one benefitted from the mistakes..) > >I love to hear stories like this. I print 'em out and give them to my >wife, so that she can be assured that yes, there ARE people >out there nuttier than me. > >Mark >mshanks@fltdyn.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:29:20 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Off-topic - sorry - Fi 156 Message-ID: After purchasing all the ww1 material they had and I did not have, during the sale at my local hobby store, I picked up a 1/72nd SMER kit for a Fi 156 with an option for South Vietnam markings; yellow squares with 3 red strips and yellow circles with 3 red inner concentric rings. Does anyone information about the use of the Fi-156 in South Vietnam. It says: "Morane Salnier MS 500 Criquet. Vietnam Armed Forces, Nhatrang, 1952" on the instruction sheet. Can anyone help - off list? (Sorry Allan, but trying to deal with has proved unfrutiful). Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 11:43:13 -0600 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Perfectionists Message-ID: > >He would put more work into the jig for the >map case than I could get into a whole model. >Bill Neill Are these guys married, do they own houses, have a life, etc.? I have trouble finding time to just build one OOB! Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:59:03 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Perfectionists Message-ID: <199903011748.JAA24490@mailhost.fltdyn.com> Bill Neill writes: > In the same club there was a guy who only made one model (a 72nd Zero) for > the two years I was there. He said there was no point in making a lot of bad > models when he could make one good one. It had a scratchbuilt Sakae engine > with (he claimed) 600 individual parts, all the cylinders were stacks of > discs of different diameters. He would put more work into the jig for the > map case than I could get into a whole model. In the end, we have to answer the question "why am I doing this?", or maybe it's "WHO am I doing this for?" I build to my level of satisfaction, and I think I have reasonably high standards. But it is disheartening when the casual observers (I have a few of my best works in my office) ask questions like, "Did you paint that?" or "Is it *supposed* to look like that?" Far and away, the most positive comments I have gotten have been for the Eduard "strip-down" Fokker EIII, and I practically threw it together in a couple of weekends. The model with hundreds of hours and extraordinary labors may as well be so much eyewash. I also get annoyed when I'm told, "You must have WAAAY too much time on your hands", this usually coming from someone who spends their free time chasing a little white ball around with a set of glorified sticks or whose Sundays are spent with posterior glued to a sofa watching battling mesomorphs in one form or another of updated gladiatorial combat. What it boils down to: I'm grateful that I don't have to build a 600-part engine to believe that I have a "good" model. It's tough enough as it is. Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:33:19 -0600 From: "richard eaton" To: Subject: Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question Message-ID: <199903011841.MAA14556@sierra.onr.com> I don't think you will notice that much Paul. The setting solution (I use the dreaded Solvaset) slightly melts the decal into fitting. It seems the decal stretches a little to conform not loosing that much in dimension. At least that what I recall from my Check Masters JI in 1/72. Regards, and let me know how it goes. Richard ---------- > From: Paul Schwartzkopf > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question > Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 8:19 AM > > I spent some time looking at my Blue Max Junkers J9/DI this weekend, trying to get psyched up to start it. I checked the wings, and sure enough, the port wing top has the infamous "wave" molding flaw on it. It looks like I can take it down by using a small riffler file and carefully smoothing down the plastic between the corrugations, then using a sanding block to barely smooth off the tops of the corrugations. We'll see. > > Now a question. When applying decals (wing crosses) to corrugated surfaces such as those on the DI, a setting solution is mandatory. However, by getting the decal material to "fill in" between the corrugations, the width dimensions of the dry decal should now be narrower than when it would be applied to a flat surface. Would this effect detract from the finished model, or would I be better off making my own new decals to allow for this, or even painting on the markings to keep the correct dimensions of the markings? Thanks. > > Paul A. Schwartzkopf > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:38:53 -0600 From: "richard eaton" To: Subject: Re: Junkers D-I Vacuform Message-ID: <199903011842.MAA14644@sierra.onr.com> Alan are trying to cut too deeply to separate the parts? I find it helps sometimes to work on a firm foam pad for support. I do seperate the parts in large pieces first so that they are easier to manage before doing the final cut. Just scribe lightly and snap the excess away. Alow a little cheat room if you are thinking you will ruin something. My $.02 worth, Richard ---------- > From: Allan Wright > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Junkers D-I Vacuform > Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 8:38 AM > > Paul's questions sparked one of my own. I'm about to get a couple of > items done on my workbench, one of them the Albatros C-I vacuform. > > I always have 1 vac and several resin/injections going at once. When I finish > one, I start another. That way I never have to many going at once, and some > in all stages of completion, to suit my mood. If I'm in the mood for > filling/sanding there's one there for that. Airbrishing, always one ready for > paint, etc. > > Well, to get to the point, my next project is a 1/72 vacuform Junkers D-I. > I think this is from Wargirds, but not sure. Well, here's my quesiton: > > Since the wings are molded in 1 piece with dihedral built in > (for the bottom surface of the wing) how do you remove it from the card and > not butcher it? Last time I tried this model I destroyed the darned thing. > > -Allan > ============================================================================ === > Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! > University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- > Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu > Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu > ============================================================================ === ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 12:42:08 -0600 From: "richard eaton" To: Subject: Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question Message-ID: <199903011842.MAA14672@sierra.onr.com> I think you have more control over the situation by precutting the decal. A little more trouble lining things up but you can can control the fit at the join better. God I am just full of suggestions this morning. Back to the yardwork. Regards, Richard ---------- > From: mkendix > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Blue Max Wave / Ju DI Question > Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 8:55 AM > > Paul: > > This is related to another technique question that I have. How do people > deal with the decals that go across "cracks and spaces"; for example, > when you build the model with the aileron down and a space opens between it > and the rest of the wing? Do you cut the decal first and apply it to 2 > seperate places, or apply the decal whole and cut it at the space/join? > > Michael > > > mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu > > On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Paul Schwartzkopf wrote: > > > I spent some time looking at my Blue Max Junkers J9/DI this weekend, > trying to get psyched up to start it. I checked the wings, and sure enough, the port wing top has the infamous "wave" molding flaw on it. It looks like I can take it down by using a small riffler file and carefully smoothing down the plastic between the corrugations, then using a sanding block to barely smooth off the tops of the corrugations. We'll see. > > > > Now a question. When applying decals (wing crosses) to corrugated surfaces such as those on the DI, a setting solution is mandatory. However, by getting the decal material to "fill in" between the corrugations, the width dimensions of the dry decal should now be narrower than when it would be applied to a flat surface. Would this effect detract from the finished model, or would I be better off making my own new decals to allow for this, or even painting on the markings to keep the correct dimensions of the markings? Thanks. > > > > Paul A. Schwartzkopf > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 11:44:22 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Further notes on Aeroclub kits Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990301114422.007a9520@mail> At 03:23 AM 01/03/99 -0500, you wrote: >I had an e-mail from John today. His first priority is finishing the Meteor >11/13/14 night fighters which will be released over the summer starting in May >(at risk of being taken from the temple and burned at the stake, hooray! I >love first-generation jets as much as WW1). The B.E. series has their molds >about completed, and the first of them will be out later this year. The D.H.5 >has its fuselage done, and the F.E.8 has its wings done. > >BTW - for those who are really nuts, he and another guy are working on a 1/48 >mixed-media Canberra series B.2/B.6/B(i)8/PR.10, and perhaps a B-57. > >Tom Cleaver > Hooray! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:51:42 +0100 From: "Richard Caudron" To: Subject: RE: Off-topic - sorry - Fi 156 Message-ID: <000201be641c$ed96d6a0$4f2b5c8b@PCCE.cim-hardi.be> The MS-500 was the German Fieseler Storch french build with a different engine. The german one has a inline motor, and the french one something like a rotary one. I suppose that your aircarft has been captured by their enemy (Guerre d'Indochine). The kit has ben produced recently by academy on the 1/72 scale with these two versions. It is cheap and beautifull. Do not waste your time with the Heller, Airfix or Smer one. Can you E-mail me a copy of your colourfull version ? Thank you in advance, Richard Caudron, Belgium > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > mkendix > Sent: maandag 1 maart 1999 18:39 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Off-topic - sorry - Fi 156 > > > After purchasing all the ww1 material they had and I did not have, during > the sale at my local hobby store, I picked up a 1/72nd SMER kit for > a Fi 156 with an option for South Vietnam markings; yellow squares > with 3 red strips and yellow circles with 3 red inner concentric rings. > Does anyone information about the use of the Fi-156 in South > Vietnam. It says: > > "Morane Salnier MS 500 Criquet. Vietnam Armed Forces, Nhatrang, 1952" > > on the instruction sheet. Can anyone help - off list? (Sorry Allan, but > trying to deal with has proved unfrutiful). > > > Michael > > > mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 22:13:10 +0100 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Re: Oberursel to Clerget Message-ID: <199903012116.WAA25840@falk.c2i.net> B�lent Did I send you the instructions for molding? I have been off- line for a couple of days. Also I have a new address, so mail sent to my old address will not reach me. Tom ---------- > From: B�lent Y�lmazer > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Ynt: Oberursel to Clerget > Date: 27. februar 1999 00:14 > > me too! > > Thanks and Regards, > > Bulent > -----�zg�n �leti----- > Kimden: Ernest Thomas > Kime: Multiple recipients of list > Tarih: 26 �ubat 1999 Cuma 05:14 > Konu: Re: Oberursel to Clerget > > > >Tom Werner Hansen wrote: > > The technique for this seems to > >> have been perfected. If anybody is interested, send me a note. > > > >Me me me!!!Tia. > >E. > ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1469 **********************