WWI Digest 1439 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: New Model Photos by "Diego Fernetti" 2) RE: New Model Photos by "Steven M. Perry" 3) INSTRUMENTS by "David R.L. Laws" 4) RE: INSTRUMENTS by "Diego Fernetti" 5) Re: INSTRUMENTS by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 6) Re: Things that float... by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 7) RE: Things that float... by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 8) Re: INSTRUMENTS by "Mark Shanks" 9) PC11 was: Baumer Albatros by "Sandy Adam" 10) Re: Baumer Albatros by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 11) Calling Alberto by "Steven M. Perry" 12) More BM by Carlos Valdes 13) Off topic help sought by "Steven M. Perry" 14) RE: INSTRUMENTS - ALPS PRINTER? by "Jack Berlien" 15) Help with ident skills by thayer@sirius.com (thayer syme) 16) Re: Off topic help sought by "Lee J Mensinger" 17) Re: Help with ident skills by Allan Wright 18) RE: INSTRUMENTS by Shane Weier 19) RE: INSTRUMENTS by Shane Weier 20) Re: Help with ident skills by "K. Hagerup" 21) RE: PC11 was: Baumer Albatros by Shane Weier 22) RE: Help with ident skills by "Chris Banyai-Riepl" 23) RE: INSTRUMENTS by "Steven M. Perry" 24) RE: INSTRUMENTS by Shane Weier 25) RE: Quiet? by "Landon, James D" 26) RE: INSTRUMENTS by "Steven M. Perry" 27) Re: New Images on the Web Site by Pedro e Francisca Soares 28) Re: Off topic help sought by David & Carol Fletcher 29) List of Off Topic Kits 4 sale by Modelhound@aol.com 30) Re: INSTRUMENTS by "PAUL GABERT" 31) Re: PC11 by "Sandy Adam" 32) RE: PC11 by Shane Weier ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 06:54:50 -0200 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: New Model Photos Message-ID: <002501be559c$2f7c7fa0$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> -----Mensaje original----- De: Bob Pearson >> Someone needs to invent a way to e-mail models..:-) >> sp > >That's the next project after the time machine. > >Bob > If only the evil Dr. Karr would lend me his Airplane Reducer Gun for a couple of afternoons! D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 05:04:13 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: New Model Photos Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990211050413.00a63030@pop.mindspring.com> >If only the evil Dr. Karr would lend me his Airplane Reducer Gun for a >couple of afternoons! >D. > I had one of those. Took it to the Warbirds lineup at Sun-N-Fun one year. I was drawing on a B-25 when the darn thing went off and hit my wallet. sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:55:13 +0000 From: "David R.L. Laws" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: <36C35FD1.3B05@webtime.com.au> Instruments gentlemen ! How do YOU tackle these vexing little devils ? Commencing with plain bezels - The first problem Iv'e run across is getting a thin enough walled tube - painted rolled paper is an obvious way around this, but it never seems to look quite right - unless someone has a red hot brand of really good looking brass paint that goes on thin and smooth they'd care to share ! The metal paints I've tried tend to make the bezels look as if they were cast using part cooled lumpy custard When we get to those instruments with the flat outer ring and raised bezel I'm a bit stumped - I have a few bits from mechanical pencils ( the kind that you push to poke the lead out to write ) and there are parts of the correct dimension and shape which are close enough to use - regretably gutting mechanical pencils is somnewhat expensive ! I can see that using a photoetch flat ring for the outer ring might be a way around it but it makes for a ruddy fiddley job I suppose using a dremel or power drill as a lathe is one way of dimensioning tube - Anyone tried that sucessfully ? Reaming tube to a thin enough wall section also seems a rather pesky task Are tiny reaming tools available ? ( and Ernest, ... Down boy ! it's too obvious anyway !! ) And then there's the Dials/ faces - short of photo reduction does anyone have a few tips here please ? regards david ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 10:42:04 -0200 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: <000601be55bb$ee575a20$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> >How do YOU tackle these vexing little devils ? Good question! I'm never completely satisfied with my cockpit intrumentation. But I have a few tips on my bag. Hope it work for you. 1) nothing beats PE bezels and Waldron printed instruments. They have the technology. You must use your ingenuity, because they usually doesn't think in us, WW1 modellers. 2) A good replacement for bezels are fine copper or brass wire bent around a suitable rod. I use assorted nails of different diameter, because brush handles are made from soft wood, and when you cut the wire on them you damage the circle that will conform the bezel. Use a hobby knife with copper but you must need a little wire cutter to brass. The little gap between ends could be filled with CA or paint. Make a lot of circles at a time and glue everithing with white glue to a thick plastic card. After it dries, sand the whole assembly on a DRY surface, pressing gently and moving in ample circles. When the thickness is OK, wet the plastic and remove the bezels. They have a semicircular section. If you want them flat, repeat process to the other side. 3) the faces: Reduce the instrument faces (needles and all) to scale and ask them to "mirror" the image in a Copy Shop, using a laser copier. Then print them on acetate used for slides. Paint back with white or color as needed. The resolution is OK for 1/48 and larger scales. 4) An useful instrument must be the Waldron puncher. I never bought one, but it looks better than ramming pencil caps on plastic. You can copy the whole instrument panel, paint the back of the instruments faces and the front of the piece (with great care) without covering the faces. The added bezels will help to make edges clean. I glue the bezels only with the fresh paint. No curious fingers can reach inside 1/72 cockpits. 5) Don't use metallic paints for bezels. As you said they are too thick and grainy for little sacles. I've read Bill Horan's book about figures and he uses ochre and a tip of yellow for buckles. You can use the same mixture for bezels and if you like, a little higlighting with a touch of a sharp gold or silver aquarell pencil. Hope it works. D. -----Mensaje original----- De: David R.L. Laws Para: Multiple recipients of list Fecha: Jueves 11 de Febrero de 1999 10:46 AM Asunto: INSTRUMENTS >Instruments gentlemen ! > > >Commencing with plain bezels - The first problem Iv'e run across is >getting a thin enough walled tube - painted rolled paper is an obvious >way around this, but it never seems to look quite right - unless someone >has a red hot brand of really good looking brass paint that goes on thin >and smooth they'd care to share ! The metal paints I've tried tend to >make the bezels look as if they were cast using part cooled lumpy >custard > >When we get to those instruments with the flat outer ring and raised >bezel I'm a bit stumped - I have a few bits from mechanical pencils ( >the kind that you push to poke the lead out to write ) and there are >parts of the correct dimension and shape which are close enough to use - >regretably gutting mechanical pencils is somnewhat expensive ! I can >see that using a photoetch flat ring for the outer ring might be a way >around it but it makes for a ruddy fiddley job > >I suppose using a dremel or power drill as a lathe is one way of >dimensioning tube - Anyone tried that sucessfully ? > >Reaming tube to a thin enough wall section also seems a rather pesky >task Are tiny reaming tools available ? ( and Ernest, ... Down boy ! >it's too obvious anyway !! ) > >And then there's the Dials/ faces - short of photo reduction does anyone >have a few tips here please ? > >regards > >david > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 07:46:53 -0600 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: Dave, I have had good luck in the past making my own instrument faces. I start out with a piece of sheet plastic, and cut it to the panel shape needed. I then carefully cut the brass bezels from one of Tom's Modelworks PE sets and superglue them into their proper positions. I usually leave them brass, so I then paint the interior of the faces black and the rest of the panel wood, or whatever. When dry, I take a very sharp, fine-pointed dissection tool (or pin, etc.) and scratch in the markings on the faces, then a drop of clear gloss to simulate the glass. I have also purchased a set of 1/4 scale RC aircraft instrument faces and reduced them on a copy machine to get them in the correct scales. This works reasonably well, but they are hard to cut off the paper due to the size. They look fine in 1/32, and are passable in 1/48. HTH Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 07:55:13 -0600 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Things that float... Message-ID: >Why ain't there much around? Because there just ain't much around. >If it's not urgent, I can keep chasing it. That's not necessary, Mick, if there ain't much, there just ain't much!! Besides, if references are hard to come by, nobody should be able to make comments on the colors or profile, right? ;-) You gave me a lot more than I had a week ago. Thanks. I think I may go ahead and get it, since it did look like a fun kit to build, plus it was the last of the great sailing warships to be used in combat, and has a historical value in my collection because of that fact. Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 09:43:09 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Things that float... Message-ID: <01BE55A2.F0A10560.panz-meador@vsti.com> have either of you looked (or have) "The Kaiser's Pirates", by the Naval Institute Press, 1994? if not, i'll check the section on SMS Seeadler tonight... phillip -----Original Message----- From: Paul Schwartzkopf [SMTP:PSchwartzkopf@transcrypt.com] Sent: Thursday, February 11, 1999 7:54 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Things that float... >Why ain't there much around? Because there just ain't much around. >If it's not urgent, I can keep chasing it. That's not necessary, Mick, if there ain't much, there just ain't much!! Besides, if references are hard to come by, nobody should be able to make comments on the colors or profile, right? ;-) You gave me a lot more than I had a week ago. Thanks. I think I may go ahead and get it, since it did look like a fun kit to build, plus it was the last of the great sailing warships to be used in combat, and has a historical value in my collection because of that fact. Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 08:00:37 -0700 From: "Mark Shanks" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: <199902111551.HAA15514@mailhost.fltdyn.com> David Laws asks: > Instruments gentlemen ! > > How do YOU tackle these vexing little devils ? > > Commencing with plain bezels Rosemount has a few different sets of PE bezels - plain ones should work for most applications. Waldron does some sets too, but none that would be right for the sparse WWI cockpits. > I can see that using a photoetch flat ring for the outer ring might be a > way around it but it makes for a ruddy fiddley job Whassa matter - getting weenie on us?!?! ;-) > I suppose using a dremel or power drill as a lathe is one way of > dimensioning tube - Anyone tried that sucessfully ? No - I like my fingers the way they are!! Actually, i *have* tried swaging/flaring tubing with a Dremel, but cutting a scale ring from the end result without smashing the tube wasn't possible, even with a specialty tubing cutter (a VERY good purchase, and cheap, too!) > And then there's the Dials/ faces - short of photo reduction does anyone > have a few tips here please ? Here's a good place for decal manufacturers to get some more of our business. Any takers out there?!?!?! >From my current out-of-the-box project using the (two) instrument faces from the Eduard decal sheet: I punched them off of the sheet using the Waldron punch-and-die set. (If you don't have one of these, I don't know how you get along - I use it for so MANY different things besides instruments it isn't funny. Have had it for 20 years, and it's still sharp. Invaluable.) Anyway, took the punched-out instrument faces, and dropped a generous dollop of regular, clear 5-minute epoxy on each, just enough to cover the face and spread a little on the sides (holding the decal+paper on the point of a #11 X-Acto). After the epoxy set up, I ran flat black (actually, Floquil Grimy Black) around the edges, and added a small "hump" at what looked to be an appropriate spot on the dial for an index. (I used a photo from the back of an older issue of "Windsock" for a reference.) As we say on the Classical Music mailing list: "Viola!" (Sorry 'bout that..... ;-) Instruments with convincing bezels and "glass" faces - out of the box! Mark mshanks@fltdyn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 18:07:13 -0800 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: PC11 was: Baumer Albatros Message-ID: <199902111806.SAA29918@beryl.sol.co.uk> > ( who lately and subliminally came across a reference about the percentage > change of red-oxide in PC10 as the war progressed. Back to the stacks!) I've never thought of it before, but I suppose there was a PC11? Wonder what PC1 to PC9 looked like? Might be the chance for that purple SE5a or pale green Pup? Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 11:34:42 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Baumer Albatros Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990211113442.006df9e0@mail> At 03:32 PM 20/01/99 -0500, you wrote: Always good to get a response from you, RK. > >Yeah, if I were a contest judge (ha! fat chance) I wouldn't flip out over a >black OR Baumer fuselage. I guess sometimes I'm kinda dogmatically non- >dogmatic. Unless something is so absurdly out of bounds like a presentation >of, oh.... let's say MvR's all-limegreen Fokker D VIII, I'm not gonna jump on >anybody's case. I'll defend my ideas, but I'm not gonna deputize myself into >the dreaded Color Police. You're an American. Can't you just shoot these people? Isn't that some sort 2nd Amendment right? >If someone asked me about doing Baumer's Albatros for a contest, I'd probably >state my case and then advise them to go with red, because at the moment, >that's how it has always been presented- a case of being safe rather than >sorry. I guess it's a good idea to go to contests armed with whatever references you can bring to help persuade judges that you know what you're talking about. Especially considering that you're not likely to find too many contest judges who are WW I savvy. >FS numbers are useful as general guide, and we all have our personal >tolerances about what's acceptable, and even these may change. I don't disagree with this, as far as it goes. But it gets silly, for instance, when someone starts saying that the greens on your Russian MiG-21 don't match FS 34-whatever, when the Russians don't even use the Federal Standards. As you say, FS numbers are best used as a "general guide," but too many modellers, in my long experience, tend to treat the FS Fan as Holy Writ, and God have Mercy on anyone who defies it. >My personal >specs on this are that I tend to be more careful about factory colors- no >shocking pinks in my lozenge or bright green PC10. Personal markings have a >bit more leeway in my mind. If something is declared to be yellow, I'll use a >color called "yellow", maybe modify it till it looks good to my eye, but not >worry about exact Munsell or Metheun values- values that may change according >to the time of day anyway! >Robert K. >( who lately and subliminally came across a reference about the percentage >change of red-oxide in PC10 as the war progressed. Back to the stacks!) Oh no! So is my Polly Scale PC 10 no good anymore? Dane > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:46:21 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Calling Alberto Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990211134621.0068ccdc@pop.mindspring.com> Sorry Folks, cant get thru off list. Alberto: Mail to you bounces. Give me a shout off list. sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:01:35 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: More BM Message-ID: <36C3290F.5515@conted.gatech.edu> Sandy, Here's more info from the CoE catalog: The BM runs $12.95 (most likely one-sided, don't know if it includes ribbon) Overseas shipping is: <$25 = $8.50 >$25 = $12.50 Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:14:45 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Off topic help sought Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990211141445.00687b5c@pop.mindspring.com> A fellow at work is retiring soon. He served in the RAF in Maylasia. One of the things he did was ride in a Short Sunderland and pitch small bombs out the door ala 1914 style to harass the commies. I want to do an Airfix Sunderland for his retirement party. Can anyone help me with colors & markings on Short Sunderlands used in Maylasia? I can't pump him too hard or he'll get suspicious. TIA sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:20:42 -0800 From: "Jack Berlien" To: Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS - ALPS PRINTER? Message-ID: <001301be5604$645c96c0$5730a8c0@rna0186964> Anybody thought about using the Alps printer to make instrument faces? All we would need is a decent graphic of the instrument to use to generate the decal - either a scan of a photo, or better, to reproduce in drawing program. Trouble is, I don't know what they look like! I have the Alps MD-1000, but no decal paper, and haven't yet tried to make decals although I plan to. I would like to help out if I can - generating the graphic, decals, or both. All I need is an idea of what the instrument should look like. Best regards, Jack -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of Paul Schwartzkopf Sent: Thursday, February 11, 1999 5:46 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: INSTRUMENTS Dave, I have had good luck in the past making my own instrument faces. I start out with a piece of sheet plastic, and cut it to the panel shape needed. I then carefully cut the brass bezels from one of Tom's Modelworks PE sets and superglue them into their proper positions. I usually leave them brass, so I then paint the interior of the faces black and the rest of the panel wood, or whatever. When dry, I take a very sharp, fine-pointed dissection tool (or pin, etc.) and scratch in the markings on the faces, then a drop of clear gloss to simulate the glass. I have also purchased a set of 1/4 scale RC aircraft instrument faces and reduced them on a copy machine to get them in the correct scales. This works reasonably well, but they are hard to cut off the paper due to the size. They look fine in 1/32, and are passable in 1/48. HTH Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 12:20:30 -0800 From: thayer@sirius.com (thayer syme) To: ffml@airage.com, sfrc@airage.com, eflight-list@ezonemag.com, Subject: Help with ident skills Message-ID: Hi Folks, I know it is a bit off topic, but if you have a moment, please indulge me. I am trying to identify a US Navy vessel of which I have a picture. I don't know which class it is, or what it's mission task might be. If you have any ideas, please email me. an image can be seen at http://www.sirius.com/~thayer/ Thanks, Thayer -- Thayer Syme San Francisco Model Aviation Homepage http://www.sirius.com/~thayer/modelhp.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:37:34 -0600 From: "Lee J Mensinger" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Off topic help sought Message-ID: <36C33F8E.ADB21746@wireweb.net> The only ones I ever saw were white with upper "Brit" camouflage on the wings fuselage and elevators. But that doesn't prove much I only saw two or three. "Steven M. Perry" wrote: > A fellow at work is retiring soon. He served in the RAF in Maylasia. One of > the things he did was ride in a Short Sunderland and pitch small bombs out > the door ala 1914 style to harass the commies. I want to do an Airfix > Sunderland for his retirement party. > > Can anyone help me with colors & markings on Short Sunderlands used in > Maylasia? I can't pump him too hard or he'll get suspicious. > > TIA > sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 15:41:26 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Help with ident skills Message-ID: <199902112041.PAA01697@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > I am trying to identify a US Navy vessel of which I have a picture. I > don't know which class it is, or what it's mission task might be. If you > have any ideas, please email me. Woah - strange bird that is. Almost looks like an early version of the AGEIS class ships. -Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:08:17 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: Diego (at the end of a useful disertation on bezels says: > 5) Don't use metallic paints for bezels. As you said they are > too thick and grainy for little sacles. I've read Bill Horan's > book about figures and he uses ochre and a tip of yellow for > buckles. You can use the same mixture for > bezels and if you like, a little higlighting with a touch of > a sharp gold or silver aquarell pencil. I almost agree with this one. I have had a lot of success with watercolour pencils for brass. In the case of bezels I spray them with one of the metallic aluminium colours - Testors Metalizer which has very fine grain and although it's fragile it doesn't need to be robust for this job. Then rub a yellow ochre watercolour on a piece of 1200 grit wet and dry, add a drop of Future and mix with the tip of a brush. The resulting yellowish acrylic varnish over aluminium looks terrific for brass in small scales. Incidentally, using Indian Red and other earths (Sienna, Umber) over aluminium - in several coats if needed - will give a nice range of copper tones from shiny new metal to dull oxidised stuff. Handy on those copper pipes. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:19:09 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: Paul says: > I usually leave them brass, so I then paint the interior > of the faces black and the rest of the panel wood, or whatever. Not a critique of Paul (or anyone) but this sentence made me think of several things. 1. Many WW1 instruments had black bezels just like modern ones (EVERY instrument in my Biff for exapmle) 2. Some instruments had aluminium bezels, or other silvery metallic 3. Many instruments (maybe *most*) had white faces, not black Another case of "check your references". By far the best for cockpits is WW1 aero. Windsock has also occasionally printed full pages of instrument photos. I have found that if these are photographed on colour transparency film and *overexposed several stops* them punched out with the Waldron punch, they make superb instruments if sandwiched in the Eduard manner. Shane (result of unscientific survey of 5 copies off WW1 Aero - 2 white instruments to every black one. However there is a slight bias to German instruments and it may be that in their practice white is more usual. Not a definitive answer, but useful if you don't have a photo) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 15:15:40 -0600 From: "K. Hagerup" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Help with ident skills Message-ID: <36C3487C.7FD@prodigy.net> thayer syme wrote: > I am trying to identify a US Navy vessel of which I have a picture. I > don't know which class it is, or what it's mission task might be. Whidbey Island class LSD (Dock Landing Ship) Ken ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:29:58 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: PC11 was: Baumer Albatros Message-ID: Sandy, > > ( who lately and subliminally came across a reference about the > > percentage change of red-oxide in PC10 as the war progressed. > > Back to the stacks!) > > I've never thought of it before, but I suppose there was a PC11? > Wonder what PC1 to PC9 looked like? > Might be the chance for that purple SE5a or pale green Pup? If you *really* want to know, I have an article somewhere by Ian Huntley on the development of these finishes which actually lists what PC.1 to PC.12 were. IIRC they included such things as aluminised dopes, lead oxide dopes (red lead) and so forth because the point was to develop Protective Coatings, which could have meant using several coats (shrinking, protective then colour/camo) except that PC.10 (and PC.12) provided good UV protection *and* camo thereby saving weight, expense and time. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:40:07 -0800 From: "Chris Banyai-Riepl" To: Subject: RE: Help with ident skills Message-ID: <000d01be5607$17b329d0$608cded1@chris> > I am trying to identify a US Navy vessel of which I have a picture. I > don't know which class it is, or what it's mission task might be. If you > have any ideas, please email me. > > an image can be seen at > > http://www.sirius.com/~thayer/ > This ship is a US Navy LSD (Dock Landing Ship). It was designed to work with the LCACs for amphibious landings, as well as being a docking and repair facility for the LCACs. There are three classes of LSD ships, with this one being of the Whidbey Island class. It is either the USS Tortuga (LSD-46) or the USS Ashland (LSD-48). That is, if the number on the bow is 46 or 48. I suppose it could be 49, in which case it would be the USS Harpers Ferry, namesake of the Harpers Ferry Class of LSDs. But it is definitely an LSD. Chris Banyai-Riepl Publisher/Editor Internet Modeler http://www.avsim.com/mike/awn/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 16:36:32 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990211163632.00a69568@pop.mindspring.com> Shane: When you use the base of Testors Metalizer on the beezels, do you also use the Metlizer Sealer before the colored Future? sp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:55:19 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: Steve > When you use the base of Testors Metalizer on the beezels, do > you also use the Metlizer Sealer before the colored Future? Nope. The Sealer is intended to protect the (fragile) finish, but tends to dull the effect. When you coat with future it protects the metalizer just as well IMHO - the issue of dulling is moot given that I tint the Future anyway. For an example of the way this works, the brass tips on the prop of my W.29 on Alans web page was done using future/watercolour pencil - though it may not be big enough to be very useful Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:57:36 -0700 From: "Landon, James D" To: "'WWI modelers list'" Subject: RE: Quiet? Message-ID: <98B98E951BA0D1119A590000F8045A47025166EE@emss02m05.ems.lmco.com> Hello? Hello? Can you guys hear me? I'm switched over to the digest mode which helps ... just one e-mail a day instead of the 81 that I whined about here a few days ago. I'm writing to proudly and vainly announce that I just added 4 new pages to my web site for the T-M S4C Scout. The new pages start at the following address, then do the "next page" links or type in page numbers 22, 23, 24. http://www.freeyellow.com/members6/titanman/page21.html Let me know what you think. One last thing, I don't get much traffic on my web site. (And everybody says "Duh".) I'd hate to have to admit that the reason is because my site stinks, so I attribute it to not having "the right connections". Would it be possible for some of you guys to add a hot link on your web sites that would direct people to visit mine? Talk to me. BTW, when you guys post messages to the list, how about deleting the superfluous portions of the prior message that you're responding to. (Oh great, we invite this Landon character to join the list and not only does he not have one single clue about WWI or scale modeling, but now he's starting to tell us how to run *OUR* list.) There, now none of you guys have to say it. Jim ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 16:57:15 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: RE: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990211165715.00b73130@pop.mindspring.com> At 04:54 PM 2/11/99 -0500, you wrote: >Steve > >> When you use the base of Testors Metalizer on the beezels, do >> you also use the Metlizer Sealer before the colored Future? > >Nope. The Sealer is intended to protect the (fragile) finish, but tends to >dull the effect. When you coat with future it protects the metalizer just as >well IMHO - the issue of dulling is moot given that I tint the Future >anyway. > Cool, I hate the smell of that Metalizer Sealer. Even with a spray booth that stuff makes me ill. Thanks. I've used the small bottle of Testors Gold shaken real thoroughly to simulate brass. It seems to be the finest grained of the yellow metal paints sp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:21:20 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: New Images on the Web Site Message-ID: <36C357DF.DAADF0D6@mail.telepac.pt> Dennis Ugulano wrote: > Michael and Paul, > > Very nice models. Congratulations to both of you > > Yes, Good show Guys. keep 'em coming. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:43:52 -0800 From: David & Carol Fletcher To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Off topic help sought Message-ID: <36C35D28.BB6@mars.ark.com> Steven M. Perry wrote: "Can anyone help me with colors & markings on Short Sunderlands used in Maylasia?" The aircraft were from 88, 205 and 209 Squadrons (later 88 re-equipped with Canberras amd 205 and 209 were linked, sharing aircraft). They were white with grey (gray y'all) upper surfaces and D-Type roundels and fin flashes. They were also Mark Vs with Pratt & Whitney R-1830 engines - if memory serves me right, the Airfix kit is a Mark III with Bristol Pegasus XVIII engines. Nothing is ever OOB! They also had ASV Mk.VIC radar with a radome under each wingtip. I have several head-on shots but haven't found any serial numbers or codes yet... Dave Fletcher (who happens to like cantilever monplanes...) dcf@mars.ark.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 17:56:24 EST From: Modelhound@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: List of Off Topic Kits 4 sale Message-ID: I have a list of 145 1/48 scale NOT WW-1 airplane kits for sale. I am offering these models to the fine people on this list before I post a note to RMS. Please e-mail me for details. Thanks, Mike Franklin Bellingham, WA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 18:01:42 -0500 From: "PAUL GABERT" To: Subject: Re: INSTRUMENTS Message-ID: <199902112310.SAA03429@cplus.cpis.net> I ---------- > Has anyone used the CSM german WW1 instruments in 1/48th or 1/28th? They'll also be releasing british and french sets in both scales and 1/32nd. Paul G. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 00:37:24 -0800 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: PC11 Message-ID: <199902120037.AAA10902@beryl.sol.co.uk> > If you *really* want to know, I have an article somewhere by Ian Huntley on > the development of these finishes which actually lists what PC.1 to PC.12 > were. Shane I'd certainly be interested to know what the shades were (not just the constituents and mixtures), IF there is any reference to particular test aircraft that were actually finished in these colours. TIA Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:43:38 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: PC11 Message-ID: Sandy, > > If you *really* want to know, I have an article somewhere > > by Ian Huntley on the development of these finishes which > > actually lists what PC.1 to PC.12 were. > I'd certainly be interested to know what the shades were (not just the > constituents and mixtures), IF there is any reference to > particular test > aircraft that were actually finished in these colours. > TIA My indes of SAM is imperfect to say the least, but I should be able to find it with the weekend ahead to do the searching. More follows Monday Shane ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1439 **********************