WWI Digest 1434 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: The Big Apple by John & Allison Cyganowski 2) Off Topic Request - Occidental Replicas T-6 by John & Allison Cyganowski 3) RE: "Dibs" on next eBay BM Nieuport 28 ;-) by "John C Glaser" 4) Another on the shelf...almost by "Steven M. Perry" 5) Re: Another on the shelf...almost by Ernest Thomas 6) Re: Another on the shelf...almost by "Steven M. Perry" 7) Re: Quiet? by "Michal Beran" 8) Re: Another on the shelf...almost by John & Allison Cyganowski 9) Warning: Off-topic Fledglings/Fletchers by "Tom Werner Hansen" 10) Re: if you have some extra cash lying around . . . by "Tom Werner Hansen" 11) Re: Guillow! wasRe: Quiet? by "David Vosburgh" 12) Re: Another on the shelf...almost by "Steven M. Perry" 13) Re: gluing glass by bucky@ptdprolog.net 14) JaPo Oeffag Albatros book by Matthew E Bittner 15) Re: Quiet? by Matthew E Bittner 16) Re: JaPo Oeffag Albatros book by Carlos Valdes 17) Re: JaPo Oeffag Albatros book by mkendix 18) Re: gluing glass by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 19) Re: gluing glass by lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) 20) Re: Homepage by Dennis Ugulano 21) Re: gluing glass by Dennis Ugulano 22) Re: Triplane progress report... by Bill Neill 23) Re: Homepage by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 24) Additional Dr.1 References by "PAUL GABERT" 25) Re: Triplane progress report... by "David R.L. Laws" 26) White Paint.... by lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) 27) I'm Back and Miscellaneous by David & Carol Fletcher 28) Off-Subject: Gauntlet Conversion by "David Vosburgh" 29) glass gluing by bucky@ptdprolog.net 30) Re: White Paint.... by Dennis Ugulano 31) Re: Additional Dr.1 References by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 07:53:02 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: The Big Apple Message-ID: <36BD8CAE.564F@worldnet.att.net> I don't know of any museums focusing exclusivly on WWI, but the USS Intrepid is supposed to have a lot of great off topic aircraft, not just Navy. I hear they also have an on-topic SE5a repo. Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 08:06:39 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Off Topic Request - Occidental Replicas T-6 Message-ID: <36BD8FDF.5E45@worldnet.att.net> Say is anyone willing to admit owning the 1/48 Occidentals T-6. How does it stack-up against the Monogram offering? It' nearly 1/2 price in this month's Squadron flyer and I would like a recommendation on it. Reply off list. TIA Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 09:28:45 -0600 From: "John C Glaser" To: Subject: RE: "Dibs" on next eBay BM Nieuport 28 ;-) Message-ID: <000001be52ae$8dc1ad60$f011820a@johng-home> Thanks. - John -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu] On Behalf Of Sandy Adam Sent: Sunday, February 07, 1999 6:10 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: "Dibs" on next eBay BM Nieuport 28 ;-) > Does anyone have an e-mail address for Mr. Gannon of Pegasus / Blue > Max? Sandy? Hi John - I used to send to sales@pegasusmodels.com, but I see the button now says sarah@pegasusmodels.com Presumably Chris will now be chris@pegasusmodels.com HTH Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 10:26:03 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Another on the shelf...almost Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990207102603.00a5e488@pop.mindspring.com> My Testors Nie 17 is lacking about 3 dabs of touchup paint and a coat of satin before taking it's place on the shelf. That's the second model completed during 99 and the first started & completed in 99. John Cyganowski: a bit of the Passchendaele D.II conversion kit made it to the shelf as part of this Nie.17. I used a bit of the casting flash from the upper wing as part of the axle assembly. I got my Eduard D.III and the fuselage is truly worthy of those Passchendaele wings. The D.II conversion will be my next 1:48 project and I can't wait to start. sp nu: Revell Dr.1 as 425/17 (Sorry Sandy, but I'm tired of the uninitiated telling me my Fokker tripe done as Voss' machine should have been painted red.) at: Passchendaele/Eduard D.II conversion (Talk to me RK :-) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 09:35:30 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Another on the shelf...almost Message-ID: <36BDB2C2.65D4@bellsouth.net> Steven M. Perry wrote: > > My Testors Nie 17 is lacking about 3 dabs of touchup paint and a coat of > satin before taking it's place on the shelf. Pictures, please? E. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 10:37:43 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Another on the shelf...almost Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990207103743.00a616e0@pop.mindspring.com> At 10:37 AM 2/7/99 -0500, you wrote: >Steven M. Perry wrote: >> >> My Testors Nie 17 is lacking about 3 dabs of touchup paint and a coat of >> satin before taking it's place on the shelf. > >Pictures, please? >E. A full write up including photos expected shortly. sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 17:24:53 +0100 From: "Michal Beran" To: Subject: Re: Quiet? Message-ID: <199902071745.SAA09786@jenicek.cm-sec.cz> Jim: Welcome to the list from one of the European members. Michal Beran Czech republic (the home of Eduard, Flashback etc) nb: 1/72 Farman F.30, Eduard's 1/48 Nie. 17 nl: Learning to fly (Pink Floyd) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 11:56:05 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Another on the shelf...almost Message-ID: <36BDC5A5.11C3@worldnet.att.net> Steven M. Perry wrote: > > > John Cyganowski: a bit of the Passchendaele D.II conversion kit made it to > the shelf as part of this Nie.17. I used a bit of the casting flash from > the upper wing as part of the axle assembly. I got my Eduard D.III and the > fuselage is truly worthy of those Passchendaele wings. The D.II conversion > will be my next 1:48 project and I can't wait to start. > sp > nu: Revell Dr.1 as 425/17 (Sorry Sandy, but I'm tired of the uninitiated > telling me my Fokker tripe done as Voss' machine should have been painted > red.) > at: Passchendaele/Eduard D.II conversion (Talk to me RK :-) That resin works nicely doesn't it? Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 13:33:10 +0100 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Warning: Off-topic Fledglings/Fletchers Message-ID: <199902071719.SAA20620@d1o211.telia.com> Mike. The word goes back to West Germanic (from which both Norse/Saxon/Frankish/German evolved) fluggjo - flying/fit to fly. The word came to mean furnished with feathers, hence: fledge - to become fully plumed : fletch - furnish an arrow with feathers; fletcher - the guy who fletches/makes the arrows. Of course the root of the word is *flug, which reappears in English and Norwegian as -to fly- in the German word -flug- (as in 'flugzeug') In Norwegian 'fly' means 'Aeroplane'! (source: OED) Talk about crabwise/lateral thinking. This thread started out as "if you have some extra cash" Tom ---------- > From: Mike Fletcher > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: if you have some extra cash lying around . . . > Date: 06. februar 1999 23:39 > > I learn something new everyday A fletcher is indeed an arrow maker > (or more specificly the process of adding the feathers or 'fletching' > the arrow). > I was told it was derived from Norse (perhaps an older version of the > language?) and speard by the Viking invasions, which expalined why it > appeared so similar in many European languages (French, German, English > etc). > -- > Mike Fletcher ___ ., > mdf@mars.ark.com |-\|^----! ; > mikef@sparc.nic.bc.ca |--n--""*" > icq=19554083 @ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 13:15:19 +0100 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Re: if you have some extra cash lying around . . . Message-ID: <199902071719.SAA20617@d1o211.telia.com> Michael. You're not missing anything. "pil" in Norwegian is arrow. I just expressed myself clumsily. I meant that Fletcher would derive from the French, not Norse. Tom ---------- > From: mkendix > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: if you have some extra cash lying around . . . > Date: 06. februar 1999 21:22 > > I thought a fletcher was someone who made arrows. Am I missing > something here? Probably. > > Michael > > > mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu > > On Sat, 6 Feb 1999, Tom Werner Hansen wrote: > > > Mike > > Sorry to correct you there. If your last name wqas derived from the Norse > > your name would be something like "Pilmaker", more likely from French > > "fleche" (sorry about the missing accent). Our French-speaking members may > > correct me on this. > > > > Tom > > > > ---------- > > > From: Mike Fletcher > > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > > Subject: Re: if you have some extra cash lying around . . . > > > Date: 06. februar 1999 07:28 > > > > > > nope - they were named after an US Navy officer (ww1?) who iirc was > > > decended from someone on the Mayflower - we were poor Manchesterians who > > > came for the climate and to avoid concription. (A fletcher made arrows > > > and the name is from Norse so there are a lot of them that aren't > > > related) > > > -- > > > Mike Fletcher ___ ., > > > mdf@mars.ark.com |-\|^----! ; > > > mikef@sparc.nic.bc.ca |--n--""*" > > > icq=19554083 @ > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:20:02 -0500 From: "David Vosburgh" To: Subject: Re: Guillow! wasRe: Quiet? Message-ID: <000901be52be$194d1ae0$15d690d0@Pvosburg> Cyg: I dug around after reading your response and found the following in Chapt. VI, "Airplane Fuselage and Landing Gear Construction", of my old standby, Major Page's "Modern Aircraft" (1928): "Fig.106. - How Solid Section Balsa or Spruce Fairing is Attached to Tubular Interplane, Landing Gear, or Monoplane Bracing Struts to Give a Streamline Shape and Lessen Parasitic Resistance." Indicated in the diagram is the proper cross-section for the fairing and method of attaching to the metal tube via clips, with a notation that the whole is to be taped over. In re: spruce, the same section indicates that "The various spruces, especially Silver and California spruce, are, as far as known, the most satisfactory woods for aeronautical use..." Are Sitka and California the same variety? This was all written almost ten years after WWI, of course, but FWIW... DV -----Original Message----- From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Saturday, February 06, 1999 10:54 PM Subject: Re: Guillow! wasRe: Quiet? >David Vosburgh wrote: >> >> I seem to recall, though, that some of the struts on WWI-vintage a/c >> actually were made of balsa --- airfoil sections of the stuff mounted on the >> front and rear of metal tubing, the whole bound together with cloth tape. >> I'd always assumed that they used spruce, and can't recall now where I read >> this... can anyone help me out here? >> >> DV > >Balsa is a wood native to So. America so if any aircraft had this >material as a component I would think it was rare and in peace time. As >for Spruce, Sitka Spruce is the primo material for aircraft construction >because it is close grained and very strong, but; It costs a fortune and >it is native to the Northwest Americas, so there wasn't that much >available (at least to the Germans). > >I recall reading a few years ago about a project to genetically engineer >Sitka to grow more rapidly and resist pests. Haven't heard any more >about it. > >A lot of the strut wrapping you see in photos and read about was to >prevent splintering upon a crash. These splinters were kind of big. >Could ruin your day. Imagine surviving a crash only to bleed to death >from being skewered by your disintegrating struts. Yeech! > >John Cyg. > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 12:17:48 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Another on the shelf...almost Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990207121748.00a64cbc@pop.mindspring.com> >That resin works nicely doesn't it? > >Cyg. Yes Sir, it does. The rest of it is in the bits & scraps box and will surely make other cameo appearances in future projects. sp (Who is now fondling Albatri pieces in anticipation) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 12:43:45 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: gluing glass Message-ID: <36BDD0D1.52E651B8@ptdprolog.net> Thanks to Dennis and Pedro. Dennis:What Is two-part epoxy? Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:53:02 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: JaPo Oeffag Albatros book Message-ID: <19990207.115526.-844473.6.mbittner@juno.com> Just received word that John Roll is getting these in for $26.25, if interested. See: http://www.rollmodels.com Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:44:20 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Quiet? Message-ID: <19990207.115526.-844473.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:35:46 -0500 (EST) "Michal Beran" writes: >nb: 1/72 Farman F.30, Eduard's 1/48 Nie. 17 If this is the Omega F.30, how about a review/appraisal/build article - plus pictures? Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 14:16:50 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: JaPo Oeffag Albatros book Message-ID: <36BDE6A2.243A@conted.gatech.edu> > Just received word that John Roll is getting these in for $26.25, if > interested. See: > > http://www.rollmodels.com Keystone has it for $16.50 (keystonemm@aol.com) http://users.aol.com/keystonemm Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:00:41 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: JaPo Oeffag Albatros book Message-ID: Matt: I saw some new Albatros book at Nostalgic Plastic on Friday for around $22/$23 ish. I was considering it but at that price I balked; plus my Hit Kit Albatros D.III is so bad that Ken LaSala is letting me return it unless he can find a decent replacement. BTW, thanks for bringing Ken to my attention; he's usually cheaper than most and he shows up at our IPMS, DC chapter monthly meetings. There was another "Modelfest" yesterday but I played football (soccer) instead; they charge $5 for customers to get in and I thought that a bit much considering there's nothing out there that I want right now. Just the same, can't tell you how much self-control was required for me not to pop-in to the Modelfest on the way home from football. Off to Sea, Land & Air later today (home of the S.E.5a with the crumbled wing) to purchase some Testors Dullcoat, I definitely prefer it to Semi-gloss because I think you have to be a really good modeller to get away with a semi-gloss finish. Maybe I'll get there one day. Problem with going to S,L & A for Testors Dullcoat is I usually get "side-tracked" into buying something else. Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu On Sun, 7 Feb 1999, Matthew E Bittner wrote: > Just received word that John Roll is getting these in for $26.25, if > interested. See: > > http://www.rollmodels.com > > > Matt Bittner > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:11:14 -0800 (PST) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: gluing glass Message-ID: <199902072011.MAA25993@compass.OregonVOS.net> >Thanks to Dennis and Pedro. Dennis:What Is two-part epoxy? >Mike Muth An epoxy adhesive available at any hardware store, building supply store, or most 'glues' displays at your run-of-the- mill Kmart or Walmart or the like. It comes in two tubes, an epoxy and a hardener. You squeeze out equal amouts of each, stir together well, and apply. It comes in several varieties, depending on the intended use - the "5-minute" variety is probably best for your purposes although it provides a bond which is a little less strong than the slower setting kind. But, super-strength is not really what yer looking for. Read the information and recommendations on the packaging which should disclose just which variety the manufacturer recommends for your particular task. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum." ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 20:24:34 GMT From: lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: gluing glass Message-ID: <36bdf4c4.7611998@legend.firstsaga.com> On Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:43:48 -0500 (EST), you wrote: > > >Thanks to Dennis and Pedro. Dennis:What Is two-part epoxy? Hi Mike Two-part epoxy requires that you mix the two parts together to make them react. They are very strong. I've seen them in sets were you just squeeze one plunger and equal parts are dispensed and more common is the two separate tubes were you squeeze out equal portions. There are regular and 5-minute types available. Both Elmers and Devcon are readily available in most hardware stores, K-mart, Wal-Mart, etc. You can also get epoxy putty which has a variety of uses. You might also look for some glue specifically for glass, the places mentioned above should have it. Len ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:52:45 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "INTERNET:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Homepage Message-ID: <199902071552_MC2-6997-FB05@compuserve.com> Marten, >> No funny-stuff, such as lamps and "special" effects. Keep up the good work !! I loved your Voisin. << Thank you very much for your comments. I like to keep things clean and simple. As I learn more about HTML, I may add thumbnails and how to even up things, but right now I happy with the results. The Voisin was a fun but tedious project. The results are very pleasing and a plane I have wanted in my collection for years. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies Page Revised 2/3/99 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:52:47 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: gluing glass Message-ID: <199902071552_MC2-6997-FB08@compuserve.com> Mike, Two part Epoxy is an epoxy resin mixed with a hardener that sets up into a very strong bonding agent. RC planes use a lot of it for strength. It is incredibly hard. You can get it with a set up time of 5 minutes to 2 hours. For your purpose, I would use 5 minute. Mix the two parts together in equal parts, apply a very small amount to the stem after about a minute. Press the two together and wipe off the excess at that time. It hardens to its maximum strenght in 24 hours. If it is just going to sit on a shelf, it should last half way to forever. Any hardware store or hobby shop should carry it. There are a variety of names that it goes under. I use it when I want the maximum of strength . I also use it to secure the weight in my models as it does not attack plastic. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies Page Revised 2/3/99 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:35:40 -0500 From: Bill Neill To: "INTERNET:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Triplane progress report... Message-ID: <199902071635_MC2-6999-A89C@compuserve.com> Been a busy week on other stuff, but I got the cowling and front fuselage done with metal foil. Took four tries to get someting without (obvious) wrinkles. Then I got clever, and thought I would try that nice swirly effect on the metal. I put a piece of real soft wood in a Dremel, and dabbed it around the foil. Actually it looked not too bad in the evening, but in daylight it looked blotchy and uneven. So, we are back to plain foil, lightly rubbed with Scotchbrite. Most decals are on., I elected to get the fuselage as complete as possible before getting the wings on. Had some trouble getting the Eduard decals to detach from the paper, seemed to take an awful long soak time. Look ok on though. Now, before I get the wings on, have to figure some way to do the black or grey vee shape metal bits at the junction between wing and strut. The BM DH2 is back in it's box for now, I got the kit interior painted and together, before realising how clunky it looked. With superglue remover and paint strip, back to square 1. I got good interior info off you guys, once I finish the Triplane and find enough brass and other stuff to get a retry, the DH2 will be on again. Bill Neill ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 15:00:36 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Homepage Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990207150036.0071f8b0@mail> At 03:52 PM 07/02/99 -0500, you wrote: > The Voisin was a fun but tedious project. "Fun but tedious." Words only a modeller could utter! By the way, good page, great models. >Dennis Ugulano Dane ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:04:18 -0500 From: "PAUL GABERT" To: Subject: Additional Dr.1 References Message-ID: <199902072312.SAA03077@cplus.cpis.net> I've borrowed a copy of the Datafile Special and have the In Action book/let. I also have The Complete Book of Fighters by Green and Scarborough which has the same Aviagraphica cutaway drawing of the Dr.1 as the Dr.1 A Reappraisal article in Air Enthusiast Eight. The Shaw AFB library has the TimeLife WW1 volume with an additional cutaway drawing. My questions are related to the elusive cockpit instruments and their positioning. Most of the cutaways have an engine instrument mounted on the left side of the cockpit's tubular framing (also seen on the Koster DVIII). What is this instrument? The Aviagraphica drawing has an additional engine instrument mounted on the left side at seat level, the Datafile and TimeLife drawings do not. Is this accurate and if so what instrument is it? RR or A L Bentley say in the Datafile Special that the positions of the pulsometer and the tachometer are unresolved as yet. The 1/28th Revell Dr.1 and the DML Dr.1 both have an instrument on the machinegun support bar. Is this speculation or accurate? What instrument is it supposed to be? Both the big Revell kit and the DML Dr.1 feature a hand fuel pump, Revell has it on the cockpit's left, DML on the right. Are either of these correct? The Hawkeye kit lists a few additional references particuarly the Feb 89 and May 90 issues of WW1 Aero. I haven't checked to see if back issues of these two copies are available but would appreciate an honest opinion on their usefulness. TIA for any help received. Paul G. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 10:05:28 +0000 From: "David R.L. Laws" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Triplane progress report... Message-ID: <36BEB6E8.607E@webtime.com.au> Bill Neill wrote: > thought I would try that nice swirly effect on the metal. I put > a piece of real soft wood in a Dremel, and dabbed it around the foil. > > Bill Neill Bill, " engine turning " of metal was originally done with cork as in wine bottle ! - I have tried a small piece of cork in a drill/ dremel using a rheostat ( light dimmer switch ) to control speed on a small bit of scrap foil - instant coffee foil seal material - and found the results weren't too bad at all - I was just experimenting and haven't tried it in situ on a completed cowl - Perhaps the foil was not properly fixed and set when you tried it, or maybe the wood was just a bit too much Any words of wisdom from anyone else whose tried doing it the way they actually did ( and still do ) engine turning ? david ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 23:54:46 GMT From: lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: White Paint.... Message-ID: <36be2697.10638146@legend.firstsaga.com> I need some recommendations for a good white paint that will work well thru an airbrush. I've used Testors Model Master and the results vary from one session to the next which untimately leads to some serious frustration....and the need for some oven cleaner (I'll do that later tonight.). So what are your personal preferences, preferred solvents, and mixing ratios ? Len, (Whose wife will probably say: "Dear, while your using that easy-off on your model could you spray a little in the oven ?) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 16:23:57 -0800 From: David & Carol Fletcher To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: I'm Back and Miscellaneous Message-ID: <36BE2E9D.8A5@mars.ark.com> After two weeks cast of being adrift in the Caribbean and the Pacific in a 70,000 ton off-topic vessel, I have returned safely to land. The monstrous pile of messages (even in digest form) took two hours to download, so I won't jump in and answer things individually, but will instead throw in a few comments: For paint removal, I use clear brake fluid. It saves nasty invitations into the kitchen and I usually have some in the garage! I just soak the parts overnight and clean off the remaining bits of paint with an old toothbrush. Profiles are generally from the left side because pilots normally sit on that side (on multi-seat machines) or at least climb in from that way (except for the F-104) - it was very hard to climb into a Bf-(expletive deleted) from the right side since the canopy was in the way... Helicopters should be done from the right side (as per my decidedly off-topic Sea King profile) because the pilot sits in the right seat of a chopper - which stems from Igor Sikorsky's refusal to relinquish the left seat to anybody, so everyone he checked out learned to fly from the right. I notice that my name has appeared from time to time in my absence. I prefer to define Fletcher as a 'pre-historic armament technician' and every army needed them as much as they needed cooks (or maybe more so). The German 'Pfielschmitt' sounds better than the Norwegian translation IMHO... But I missed how this thread started, so I'll get a briefing from the other Fletcher on the list. To bring things back to topic, the ship's library had an interesting book on the Hindenberg, which included some shots of WWI zeppelins in night camouflage. Dave Fletcher dcf@mars.ark.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 20:31:44 -0500 From: "David Vosburgh" To: "WWI Mailing List" Subject: Off-Subject: Gauntlet Conversion Message-ID: <001501be5302$cb051320$1ed690d0@Pvosburg> I picked up an ancient 1:72 Airfix bagged kit of a Gloster Gladiatior yesterday, and am idly considering converting it to the earlier Gauntlet as a 'quickie' project. Has anyone attempted same? Besides the still AWOL Dave F., that is, who I believe did an article on the subject for IPMS Canada years back... I have the book "On Silver Wings" with info on both types, but I still need the following: 1.) Shots of the Gauntlet engine installation and an explaination of the odd "Star of David" triangular framework in front of the cylinders. 2.) Cockpit shots --- was the general arrangement as in the Glad? 3.) Drawings other than the ones in 1:72 for the Glad by G.A.G. Cox. Any and all off-list replies appreciated. Dave V. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 21:01:12 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: glass gluing Message-ID: <36BE4568.4CB6E685@ptdprolog.net> Thanks again to Dennis, Bill and Len...two-part epoxy it is. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 21:36:00 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: White Paint.... Message-ID: <199902072136_MC2-69A0-209B@compuserve.com> Len, Re: White Paint Head for a sign painter and find out where he buys his stripping paint called ONE SHOT. It is an oil based paint that still has lead in it. You can thin it with almost anything, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, Disol, almost anything. It is a four hour enamel and it is WHITE. Spray it next to your Testors and you will see what I mean. And it live up to its name of ONE SHOT. The paint will cover almost any other color. Do not over thin the paint. It may seem thick but a few drops of thinner will give you an excellent flow thru your brush. ONE SHOT comes in a variety of colors and I mix many of my standard WW1 colors. It is a gloss so you can decal right over it. Try it, I think you will be very pleased with the results. But look at the label, they are starting to remove the lead and I do not know how the new formula works. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/uggies Page Revised 2/3/99 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 19:25:08 -0800 (PST) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Additional Dr.1 References Message-ID: <199902080325.TAA24920@compass.OregonVOS.net> > >I've borrowed a copy of the Datafile Special and have the In Action >book/let. I also have The Complete Book of Fighters by Green and >Scarborough which has the same Aviagraphica cutaway drawing of the Dr.1 as >the Dr.1 A Reappraisal article in Air Enthusiast Eight. The Shaw AFB >library has the TimeLife WW1 volume with an additional cutaway drawing. My >questions are related to the elusive cockpit instruments and their >positioning. Most of the cutaways have an engine instrument mounted on the >left side of the cockpit's tubular framing (also seen on the Koster DVIII). >What is this instrument? See below. >The Aviagraphica drawing has an additional engine instrument mounted on the >left side at seat level, the Datafile and TimeLife drawings do not. Is >this accurate and if so what instrument is it? >RR or A L Bentley say in the Datafile Special that the positions of the >pulsometer and the tachometer are unresolved as yet. The 1/28th Revell >Dr.1 and the DML Dr.1 both have an instrument on the machinegun support >bar. Is this speculation or accurate? What instrument is it supposed to >be? According to one reference I have, (Schuster and Engels, "Fokker V5/Dr.1") the standard Dr. instrument suite consisted -solely- of "a compass, a fuel gauge, and the Bosch ignition switch". Very few examples also had a tachometer, and just as few had a anemometer for measuring airspeed, mounted on the strut braces." Assuming these folks are correct (and they claim to have done "ten years research" for the construction of a full scale Dr.I replica now on display at the Technik Museum) there doesn't seem a lot of possiblities for "in cockpit" instruments. The fuel gauge was that little doohickey mounted under the streamlined fairing just between the gun muzzles, correct? That leaves the doohickey on the left side of the cockpit as the tachometer it would seem - assuming a particular aircraft had a tachometer. I've no idea what a "pulsometer" might be - unless they are referring to the ignition switch - maybe it doesn't translate from the German very well but I can't imagine what 'pulses' might be or why one would wish to meter them. Probably something I'm completely overlooking here but I've never before heard of a "pulsometer". >Both the big Revell kit and the DML Dr.1 feature a hand fuel pump, Revell >has it on the cockpit's left, DML on the right. Are either of these >correct? I don't recall a reference to a hand pump on the Dr.I. With the fuel tank being mounted immediately behind and immediately adjacent to the motor, there might not have been a need for a pressurized fuel system. There was a engine control doohickey with the carburettor lever and the "auto-release" lever mounted on the left-side of the cockpit attached to one of the vertical formers. >The Hawkeye kit lists a few additional references particuarly the Feb 89 >and May 90 issues of WW1 Aero. I haven't checked to see if back issues of >these two copies are available but would appreciate an honest opinion on >their usefulness. TIA for any help received. Don't have 'em so I can't comment on their usefulness although WW1 Aero is generally a pretty dependable source. However, as the Dr.I cutaway in the Datafile Special acknowledges the contributions of WW1 Aero but then laments that there are several unanswered questions including the locations of the instruments, I suspect the questions which are left unanswered in the Datafile Special are equally unanswered in the original WW1 Aero issues. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum." ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1434 **********************