WWI Digest 1409 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Cat theme by Pedro e Francisca Soares 2) Model Contest/Show Alert by Modelhound@aol.com 3) Re: rubber bullets by thayer@sirius.com (thayer syme) 4) Re: Model Contest/Show Alert by daniele silvestri 5) Re: Toko Nie. 11 update by Matthew E Bittner 6) Re: Toko Nie. 11 update by Pedro e Francisca Soares 7) Re: Calling Mr. Alexandre Trifoni - Plesase don't read guys. Entirely by Pedro e Francisca Soares 8) Re: Toko Nie. 11 update by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 9) Re: Caproni> WAS: WWI model by bucky@ptdprolog.net 10) Re: rubber bullets by "The Shannons" 11) Westchester Cty., NY by "David Vosburgh" 12) RE: Caproni> WAS: WWI model by Shane Weier 13) Slightly better photos by "Steven M. Perry" 14) Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos by mkendix 15) RE: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos by Shane Weier 16) Re: Slightly better photos by Matthew E Bittner 17) Re: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos by "David R.L. Laws" 18) Re: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos by Ernest Thomas 19) Re: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos by "Lee J Mensinger" 20) Re: Slightly better photos by Pedro e Francisca Soares 21) Re: WWI SIDNA by mgoodwin@ricochet.net 22) Re: Slightly better photos by Ernest Thomas 23) Re: rubber bullets by Ernest Thomas 24) Re: rubber bullets by Ernest Thomas 25) Re: Slightly better photos by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 26) 1/72 Large Bombers such as Capronis or Zeppellin by "Richard Caudron" 27) Re: Slightly better photos by Zulis@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 19:03:53 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Cat theme Message-ID: <36A8CB99.193D6A@mail.telepac.pt> Richard Caudron wrote: > At least a DeHavilland Tiger Moth has been painted with Tiger stripes for > one of the last Nato Tiger Meet. It is not a WWI airplane, but is is a > biplane. > Cheers, > Richard Caudron > > > - Portuguese Air Force did it. I have some photos too (and of the italian 104 someone mentioned too BTW) but my scanner is out for now. Anyone interested in scans once i get it going again (if ever....I keep getting a fatal error message BTW anyone can help with this? any of you soft and hard experts?) TIA Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 14:55:54 EST From: Modelhound@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Model Contest/Show Alert Message-ID: <60736f09.36a8d7ca@aol.com> This is an invitation to all the list members in the Great Pacific Northwet, er Northwest, to make plans to come to the IPMS Seattle Spring Show. Saturday March 13 at the Seattle National Guard Armoury. Of course anyone planning a trip to the Seattle area, if you could make it that weekend, you all are more than invited. I know we've got members in WA State, the Portland Area, Port Townsend, and Vancouver Island. Possibly the Island people could car pool across the ferry and save some money. Meet me in Bellingham and I'll drive us all down to Seattle in my nice new Buick. For further information or chat on this topic, you may contact me off list, or here as you prefer. Mikre Franklin Bellingham, WA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:47:40 -0800 From: thayer@sirius.com (thayer syme) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rubber bullets Message-ID: I know it sounds scary, but stick with me for a minute... A good friend makes an extremely fine, and expensive, turntable. yeah, the 12" black record kind. It has a soft flange around the outer edge of the platter that seals the record so that a vacuum clamp can hold it flat. He often removes moulding flash using a grinding wheel on his bench grinder. It works great, though does require a delicate touch. After I wrecked a $75 gasket on my first try, Andy decided he would clean the rest. My point is, perhaps a dremel tool with the thin cut off wheels could be used with great care. Safety glasses would of course be a good idea... If you could get just a few clean, you could use them as a pattern for a mold for casting many more. Thayer -- Thayer Syme San Francisco Model Aviation Homepage http://www.sirius.com/~thayer/modelhp.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 21:49:07 +0100 From: daniele silvestri To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Model Contest/Show Alert Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990122214907.009319d0@pontedera.pisoft.it> At 14.56 22/01/99 -0500, you wrote: >This is an invitation to all the list members in the Great Pacific Northwet, >er Northwest, to make plans to come to the IPMS Seattle Spring Show. >Saturday March 13 at the Seattle National Guard Armoury. Of course anyone >planning a trip to the Seattle area, if you could make it that weekend, you >all are more than invited. I know we've got members in WA State, the Portland >Area, Port Townsend, and Vancouver Island. Possibly the Island people could >car pool across the ferry and save some money. Meet me in Bellingham and I'll >drive us all down to Seattle in my nice new Buick. For further information or >chat on this topic, you may contact me off list, or here as you prefer. > >Mikre Franklin >Bellingham, WA Hi Mikre... I'm too far to came there but I would like to see a show reportage Regards Daniele Silvestri > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:48:01 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko Nie. 11 update Message-ID: <19990122.154809.-839729.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:20:03 -0500 (EST) "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> writes: > Back to legitimate WW I topics; hope I don't send the wife this > one by mistake. ;-) Just hope your wee one is fine! > Last weekend, I asked Matt a few questions about the Toko Nie. > 11. However, almost as soon as I did, the list bumped me off, > and I missed messages for a whole day. But I just took a look at > the appropriate archive entry, so let me now thank you, Matt, > for taking the time to answer my questions. No prob. > I am glad to hear about CDL; I just think it looks better on a > Nie. 11 than aluminized dope. Even before I asked you anything, > I had the sense that something was wrong with the French > roundels.Even today the blue in French A.F. roundels is very > light. So, I decided to do the Russian guy, the one with the > Jolly Roger on the tail. I debated sending away for some decals > really quickly, but decided against it as that would destroy the > purpose of the exercise. There's always later, as the Nieuport > 11 was, to me at least, the F-16 of its day, what with it being > adorned with the roundels of so many of the world's air arms. > Lots more colour schemes to do. There are tons of schemes to build the Nie.11 into. > My question about the cowling was silly. As I said, it was > supposed to be a quick "slammer," so I later when I looked over > my single reference source, the old Arms & Armour photo book on > Nieuports (not bad reference for $4, but wished it had more on a > few specific Nieuports), and noticed the cheek pieces. Problem > non-existent. Ah...it all seams clear now. :-) > Model is now well on the way, with cockpit having received some > rudimentary detailing with scrap (though now that that's done, I > wish I'd done more), the fuselage is together, the lower wing is > on, and the cowling and tailplane is also on, and all seams are > pretty much smoothed over. Go! > The only hitch I can see is that I rashly cut away the ugly Toko > interpretation of the windscreen. When I cut this away, just > after I bought the kit last fall, I didn't quite know what I was > doing; thought that the Nie. screen was just like all other > fighters' screens. It's not. So now will have to fashion a new > one, probably using clear styrene. "The best laid plans..." > Other than that, it's been a hoot. Of course, "slammer" to me > means I hope to have it finished within 3 or 4 weeks of having > commenced it, but that's just me. I can also see where Matt gets > his notion of scale from; after you've worked on something like > this for a few days, everything else seems unbelievably > enormous. That 1/72 Academy P-47 I am concurrently working on > looks to be about 1/32 next to the Nie. 11! See? And here ya'all thought I was insane. Well, there's that, but... That's why 1/48th is HUGE! > Next in the pipe will be the Toko Snipe. Am I correct in > assuming that the Barker Snipe (pretty much obligatory for a > Canadian) should have the earlier ailerons and rudder? And yes, > I know the roundels are wrong for the Snipe as well. I believe most of the wartime Snipe's had the earlier "stuff". However, that's coming from someone who enjoys the French subjects. :-) And you want to see a small model, just wait until 1 Feb!!! :-) Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 23:19:32 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko Nie. 11 update Message-ID: <36A90784.20E114E9@mail.telepac.pt> Bob Pearson wrote: > Dane writes . . > > > Next in the pipe will be the Toko Snipe. Am I correct in assuming that the > > Barker Snipe (pretty much obligatory for a Canadian) should have the > > earlier ailerons and rudder? And yes, I know the roundels are wrong for > the > > Snipe as well. > > > > Dane > > Yup. > > Bob The Toko Salamander has the right rudder for Barker's snipe so get the 2 and do the 2. And beware of the cowling. I had problems with the fit of mine. Be sure to dry fit it before painting it. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 23:32:45 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: WW1 modeling list Subject: Re: Calling Mr. Alexandre Trifoni - Plesase don't read guys. Entirely Message-ID: <36A90A9D.8DC7DB11@mail.telepac.pt> > 22 de janeiro de 1999 1:20 > > > > Hi Pedro ! > > > > You can reach me at atcampos@nutecnet.com.br. > > > > Best regards, > > Alexandre, your mail server is probably down and I can't reach you, so I'll put the question through the list. Sorry for the inconvenience guys. Olá Alexandre, Um amigo ingles que se interessa por helicopteros mandou-me a seguinte mensagem: "That's great, thank you Pedro. Do you have any interest in Brazilian aviation ? Do you know what colours would match the blue green and yellow in the roundels and tail stripes ?" Sera que tu podes ajudar? responde off-list por favor Um abraco ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 16:54:01 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko Nie. 11 update Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990122165401.006fb63c@mail> At 06:29 PM 22/01/99 -0500, you wrote: > > >Bob Pearson wrote: > >> Dane writes . . >> >> > Next in the pipe will be the Toko Snipe. Am I correct in assuming that the >> > Barker Snipe (pretty much obligatory for a Canadian) should have the >> > earlier ailerons and rudder? And yes, I know the roundels are wrong for >> the >> > Snipe as well. >> > >> > Dane >> >> Yup. >> >> Bob > >The Toko Salamander has the right rudder for Barker's snipe so get the 2 >and do >the 2. > >And beware of the cowling. I had problems with the fit of mine. Be sure >to dry fit it before painting it. > >Pedro > Thanks; I'll keep that in mind. Dane ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 19:28:16 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Caproni> WAS: WWI model Message-ID: <36A917A0.E5D9C968@ptdprolog.net> Shane For what it's worth, Greg Alegi talked about thCaproni's @ the last OTF seminar. He said each one was, in its own way, a prototype. The impression he left was that there were a lot of variations from one plane to the next. HTH Mike Muth Shane Weier wrote: > > Ask RK, and I bet you get the same answer. It *is* > > addictive, so if you > > start and have just one good trip, you're hooked > > > > BTW, I rooting for the Caproni. Italian aviation is an area > > I'm particularly weak in, but I know a beautiful airplane when I see one! > > I've started the Caproni, but I'm scared to go too far. The photos I have in > hand show too many detail variations which I don't entirely understand. > Maybe the upcoming datafile will make it clearer since what I know about WW1 > Italian aviation wouldn't fill a page. Meanwhile, I'll start building > details like engines, guns, (maybe) wings, and other stuff that looks > identical from picture to picture - and maybe build something easier on the > side > > Shane ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 18:37:17 -0600 From: "The Shannons" To: Subject: Re: rubber bullets Message-ID: <004601be4668$882c4ba0$63215dcf@default> -----Original Message----- From: thayer syme To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 2:50 PM Subject: Re: rubber bullets >I know it sounds scary, but stick with me for a minute... > >A good friend makes an extremely fine, and expensive, turntable. yeah, the >12" black record kind. It has a soft flange around the outer edge of the >platter that seals the record so that a vacuum clamp can hold it flat. He >often removes moulding flash using a grinding wheel on his bench grinder. >It works great, though does require a delicate touch. After I wrecked a >$75 gasket on my first try, Andy decided he would clean the rest. > >My point is, perhaps a dremel tool with the thin cut off wheels could be >used with great care. Safety glasses would of course be a good idea... > >If you could get just a few clean, you could use them as a pattern for a >mold for casting many more. > >Thayer > > I've always found that the best way was to use the round-edge X-Acto blade (#10 if I've got it right) with a rocking motion on a firm surface -- I use a plate-glass sheet. This gives a good guillotine action that trims up the soft flash pretty darned well. For the seam that runs down the middle of those soft tires, I use 320 grit sandpaper in an area where the crumb from the sanding does no harm to my marital relationship. .Mark. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 23:30:44 -0500 From: "David Vosburgh" To: "WWI Mailing List" Subject: Westchester Cty., NY Message-ID: <001b01be4689$252ca7e0$017433cf@Pvosburg> I'm going to be working for some weeks in northern Westchester County, NY --- the Bedford/Armonk area, to be specific. Does anyone know of any hobby shops worth visiting while I'm there, or within a reasonable distance? TIA, DV ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 22:22:43 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Caproni> WAS: WWI model Message-ID: Mike says: > > I've started the Caproni, but I'm scared to go too far. The > > photos I have in hand show too many detail variations which > > I don't entirely understand. Maybe the upcoming datafile will > > make it clearer since what I know about WW1 > > Italian aviation wouldn't fill a page. Meanwhile, I'll > > start building details like engines, guns, (maybe) wings, > >and other stuff that looks identical from picture to picture > > - and maybe build something easier on the side > For what it's worth, Greg Alegi talked about thCaproni's > @ the last OTF seminar. He said each one was, in its own way, > a prototype. The impression he > left was that there were a lot of variations from one plane > to the next. I'll buy that. Production line manufacture as we know it was still a new concept then. What I'll probably do, is choose a plane where I have more than one photo and a fair idea which features apply, then build *that* aircraft. I hope and pray that the USAF machine isn't the only one where I can find enough photos to follow this course. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:05:11 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990123080511.00a16d8c@pop.mindspring.com> My ongoing quest for good photos is still ongoing, but marginal progress has been made. I took 15 WWI models to be photographed, (only 3 returned with battle damage). The results were disappointing, however some of the closeups came out. Sort of. By fiddling with the software I was able to get some scans that are a little better than the last batch. Ive posted them on my web site at the following URL http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/gallery.htm I'm still trying to doctor the shots of the full models to a point where they are viewable. I'll be adding a few more pictures over the next couple of days. Any and all comments, cracks, compliments and criticisms gladly welcomed. sp I'd sure like some tips on how to do thumbnails so the darn page doesn't take forever to load :) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:19:35 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos Message-ID: Steve: I would also like advice on settings for photos. I am completely at sea in the area of stop points apertures etc. Shane gave me some help (outside, 400 speed film, +3 lens) but some of the model is well out of focus. I know it has something to do with exposure time and size of the aperture. Does anyone have some formulae that I could apply in "cookbook" fashion? Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu On Sat, 23 Jan 1999, Steven M. Perry wrote: > My ongoing quest for good photos is still ongoing, but marginal progress > has been made. > > I took 15 WWI models to be photographed, (only 3 returned with battle > damage). The results were disappointing, however some of the closeups came > out. Sort of. By fiddling with the software I was able to get some scans > that are a little better than the last batch. Ive posted them on my web > site at the following URL > > http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/gallery.htm > > I'm still trying to doctor the shots of the full models to a point where > they are viewable. I'll be adding a few more pictures over the next couple > of days. > > Any and all comments, cracks, compliments and criticisms gladly welcomed. > sp > > I'd sure like some tips on how to do thumbnails so the darn page doesn't > take forever to load :) > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 23:34:14 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos Message-ID: Michael, > I would also like advice on settings for photos. I am completely > at sea in the area of stop points apertures etc. Shane gave > me some help > (outside, 400 speed film, +3 lens) but some of the model is > well out of > focus. I know it has something to do with exposure time and > size of the > aperture. Does anyone have some formulae that I could apply in > "cookbook" fashion? Yes, the smaller the aperture, the better (confusingly, a smaller aperture has a LARGER number) You want to close it down to f.22 or smaller, and let the camera use as long an exposure as it needs. Of course, using ASA400 film it may well have to use 1/8 or 1/4 second, so a tripod is mandatory and a cable release *highly desirable* Shane ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 07:46:43 -0600 From: Matthew E Bittner To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <19990123.074644.-765411.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:10:30 -0500 (EST) "Steven M. Perry" writes: >My ongoing quest for good photos is still ongoing, but marginal >progress >has been made. Those are great! Good job, Steven. Can't wait for February. :-) Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 00:03:46 +1000 From: "David R.L. Laws" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <36A733BE.7E91@webtime.com.au> Not being a complete photo afficionado but having some experience, my first question is are you using a cmera fillted with a Macro-capable lens - lots of folks try to make a standard SLR lens do too much and you just cann't get up close using a standard lens without the image blurring - if you want the detail a macro is essential - the good news is that several of the newer digital cameras go up REALLY close to distances of a couple of centimetres Fast film ( if your'e using that medium ) and ( whatever your using ! ) really good lighting is essential david ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:00:28 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <36A9D5FC.5DBD@bellsouth.net> Shane Weier wrote: > You want to close it down to f.22 or smaller, and let the camera use as long > an exposure as it needs. Of course, using ASA400 film it may well have to > use 1/8 or 1/4 second, so a tripod is mandatory and a cable release *highly > desirable* Mike, This is pretty much how I do it too, only I use 100 asa(less grain) and I set it all up in the shade(like under the carport or something) so I get fewer hard shadows. I'll also try and use pieces of white cardboard as reflectors so the undersides aren't too dark. Using a +3 filter requires setting the aperature all the way down to f22. It's the only way to get everything in focus. I've had exposure times as long as 1/2 a second or more. As for a cable release, I don't have one. But my camera does have a timer(so the photographer can run around and get in the picture) so it's no problem. fwiw, I wasted more than a few rolls of film before I settled on this approach. hth, E. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:47:13 -0600 From: "Lee J Mensinger" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu, mkendix@wirthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu, Subject: Re: Photographing models/ was: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <36A9E0F1.3D6A0605@wireweb.net> To them what care. The supplemental lenses usually come in sets as +1, +2, +4 and the reason the set is this way is that +1 + +2 = 3 by combining them you can cover +1 thru +7. Cost for a set about $30.00. You can still use the +3 you already have but it would be really, REALLY, close at a +10. This makes it almost totally necessary that you have an SLR camera. It can be a mathmatical disaster to try to calculate the distances otherwise. If you have an SLR you may have an internal meter. If so.Try to believe it. You can also try to "bracket" the exposure by changing the Exposure time up and down one speed unit. Use 1/2 @ f16 or 22. Bracket 1/4 and 1 second. Do not change the f setting. The number of + lenses does not change the f stop setting since they are all totally transparent as far as light is concerned. The f stop will only be changed because of less/more light hitting the target. Like inside a cockpit versus the outside of the fuselage. If possible use natural light. Flash is tough with extreme close up unless you have a TTL (through the lens) automatic flash and camera set up. Shadow control is almost impossible and contrast can be an abomination with deep shadows and washed ut highlights. Most important. The subject must be in focus before you take the photo. If you do not use a tripod the "jiggle" factor can become enormous. I also recommend slower film speeds to control grain and allow better, sharper, enlargements. If you wish to digress in greater detail please contact me directly at lemen@wireweb.net I have over fifty years of experience with 35mm cameras. I may be able to recommend a book on extreme close ups. But first I have to look for one. If the item being photographed is not, sharply, in focus, when viewed through the lense, pentaprism before exposure, it will most likely not get a great deal better on the film. It is best to use the biggest number for the aperture setting. Number 16 and higher. Good lighting, whitecards and in some cases pieces of Reynolds wrap pasted onto cardboard can be used to control lighting. Even a "white umbrella" can be used to focus and control the light and shadows. mkendix wrote: > Steve: > > I would also like advice on settings for photos. I am completely > at sea in the area of stop points apertures etc. Shane gave me some help > (outside, 400 speed film, +3 lens) but some of the model is well out of > focus. I know it has something to do with exposure time and size of the > aperture. Does anyone have some formulae that I could apply in > "cookbook" fashion? > > Michael > > mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu > > On Sat, 23 Jan 1999, Steven M. Perry wrote: > > > My ongoing quest for good photos is still ongoing, but marginal progress > > has been made. > > > > I took 15 WWI models to be photographed, (only 3 returned with battle > > damage). The results were disappointing, however some of the closeups came > > out. Sort of. By fiddling with the software I was able to get some scans > > that are a little better than the last batch. Ive posted them on my web > > site at the following URL > > > > http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/gallery.htm > > > > I'm still trying to doctor the shots of the full models to a point where > > they are viewable. I'll be adding a few more pictures over the next couple > > of days. > > > > Any and all comments, cracks, compliments and criticisms gladly welcomed. > > sp > > > > I'd sure like some tips on how to do thumbnails so the darn page doesn't > > take forever to load :) > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 15:15:51 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <36A9E7A7.44F2B965@mail.telepac.pt> "Steven M. Perry" wrote: > My ongoing quest for good photos is still ongoing, but marginal progress > has been made. > Steve, Those rib tapes on the NH-9 are absolutely smashing. Great Work Oh, what pleasure I get from looking at great models. Thnaks Steve Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 19:39:04 -0800 From: mgoodwin@ricochet.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: WWI SIDNA Message-ID: <36AA95D8.685B@ricochet.net> Kevin Wenker wrote: > . Yes, I've got a N 17 I could trade. Do you still live at 9218 Whitehall Ln in Orland Park, IL? Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 09:55:29 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <36A9F0F1.347B@bellsouth.net> Pedro e Francisca Soares wrote: > Steve, > Those rib tapes on the NH-9 are absolutely smashing. Great Work > Oh yeah, I noticed that too. NICE! As are the rest. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 10:22:44 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rubber bullets Message-ID: <36A9F754.5F94@bellsouth.net> Allan Wright wrote: > Why not use your sprue sheers? They should do the trick. Still not close enough. Looks like I'll be casting. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 10:27:01 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: rubber bullets Message-ID: <36A9F855.1A25@bellsouth.net> Modelhound@aol.com wrote: > > Perhaps one of those clipers sold for removing the parts from the casting > sprue. They cut with a pinching action and are ground to cut flush on one > side. Or similarly fingernail clipers. I have used this technique combined > with the freezer trick when triming the flash around the center of rubber > tires on some hot rod kits. > Mike Tried it, still not close enough. Freezer had no effect other than to make it cold for the first minute after I pulled em out. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 09:42:47 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Slightly better photos Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990123094247.006ff688@mail> At 08:10 AM 23/01/99 -0500, you wrote: >My ongoing quest for good photos is still ongoing, but marginal progress >has been made. > >I'd sure like some tips on how to do thumbnails so the darn page doesn't >take forever to load :) > Great photos, great models. Nice to see a Camel too. Dane ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 18:05:19 +0100 From: "Richard Caudron" To: "Wwi" Subject: 1/72 Large Bombers such as Capronis or Zeppellin Message-ID: <000101be46f2$8e5026c0$2a5f5c8b@PCCE.cim-hardi.be> HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPP .......... I would like to find vaccus of the two of the largest WWI bombers such as : the Italian Capronis (Ca3, Ca45, Ca5 ...) and the German Zepplein Staaken. Can anybody help me with some address where I could find them ??? Cheers, Richard Caudron ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 12:05:42 EST From: Zulis@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Slightly better photos Message-ID: Greetings all! There has been some great info just now posted about taking pics of models - when I take closeups of anything (my models are not yet "film-worthy") I am a big believer in working with natural light and white reflectors just off- camera to fill in the shadows. The only thing I would like to add is actually an addition to Lee's comments on "bracketing" your exposures. Today, almost all photographs are printed and processed mechanically, with computer-controlled exposures for the best print that a computer can make. These systems have become so sophisticated that they can generally adjust for one f-stop difference with ease, which entirely defeats your bracketing. I know it sounds a bit extreme, but I would bracket by at least an f-stop and a half so that the three prints that come back aren't exactly identical. Also, and this is essential, keep a small notebook listing each exposure while you are becoming familiar with your equipment and developing your technique. Jot down exposure number, and the relevant data for that particular shot. My experience is that when getting my prints back a week later, I have long forgotten exactly what I was experimenting with with each shot, and that is very frustrating. Of course, if you are using slide film as many professionals do, you must reduce the amount of the bracketing because with slide film "what you shoot is what you get" - no printing computers to correct for your over/under- exposures. Regards, Dave Z (suddenly itchy to drag out the camera) ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1409 **********************