WWI Digest 1368 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Toko W29 by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 2) RE: clear coats by Rick Milas 3) RE: Toko W29 by Shane Weier 4) dullness wasRe: Toko W29 by KarrArt@aol.com 5) Re: Toko W29 by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 6) Re: Check this Profile by Bob Pearson 7) Re: Check this Profile by KarrArt@aol.com 8) Re: Check this Profile by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 9) RE: Check this Profile by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 10) Roland Image by "Diego Fernetti" 11) Re: Toko W29 by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 12) Re: Toko W29 by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 13) Re: clear coats by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 14) Re: Toko W29 by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 15) RE: Check this Profile by "John C Glaser" 16) Re: Albatros D.II & D.III Oeffag Book by "David R.L. Laws" 17) Re: clear coats by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 18) Re: clear coats by Rick Milas 19) Model Ts by "David Vosburgh" 20) RE: Model Ts by "Diego Fernetti" 21) Re: Model Ts by Graham Nash 22) The Myth of Democratic Pacifism by "John C Glaser" 23) Re: Check this Profile by KarrArt@aol.com 24) Re: Model Ts by KarrArt@aol.com 25) Re: Check this Profile by KarrArt@aol.com 26) Re: Model Ts by KarrArt@aol.com 27) Re: Check this Profile by "Sandy Adam" 28) Re: Check this Profile by "Sandy Adam" 29) saws by mkendix ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 22:15:52 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990106221552.00703800@mail> At 10:59 PM 06/01/99 -0500, you wrote: >On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:00:35 -0500 (EST) John Huggins >writes: > >> From my viewpoint, the Dull Coat is where you are going wrong. Try >>using either AeroMaster Clear Flat or the Polly Scale Clear Flat. >>They are both from the same can, and I think they are the old Polly S >>formula. At any rate, you can put it on from the bottle to get a >>flat finish (close to a flat egg shell) or mix it in any ratio with >>Future. The two are completely compatable with each other and you >>can get any degree of flatness you want, and they clean up with >>water. > >Nope. The Polly Scale/Aeromaster is all new. I've used both the Polly S >and Polly Scale, and the later is much different - and way better. Notwithstanding, even the old Polly S flat was leagues better than carcinogenic Dullcote. I swore by it and Pactra Flat and Gloss clear (when I could find them) until Polly Scale became available. >Plus, they have a "satin" as well, if you go that route. Not quite satin, though not quite a dead matt finish either. Personally, I've always thought dead matt finishes unrealistic (and in any case I have never achieved a truly dull finish since I began using clear finishes, and that includes not only Polly Scale but Dullcote and Microflat as well); something to do with scale effect. Krasel makes a nice "satin" overcoat, and it to is water-based, and doesn't stink up your house and eat away your nervous system the way the lacquers do. Dane > >Matt Bittner > >___________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:22:36 -0600 (CST) From: Rick Milas To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: clear coats Message-ID: All this talk about clear coats is very interesting. I've been wanting to ask some questions on the list about them and I guess now is the time. For years I've used Testors Dullcoat and Glosscoat. I spray them on with an airbrush thinning them about one to one with Testors Laquer Brush Cleaner(not always carried by hobby shops). My results are fine, but I'd like to try something different. I find that Microscale decal set distorts Glosscoat with a flat appearance that can be hard to hide with the next coating, even if its Dullcoat. Also I find that Dullcoat is not that durable, it gets shiny even with very careful handling. Anyone else have these experiences? The point however is I don't know what else to use. I've never tried Future. It sounds like lots of you like it. If I airbrush it do I need to thin it? With what? How much? Is it fairly quick drying? I've been tempted to try the Polly Scale stuff. I like their paints. Do the Poly Scale coatings have to be thinned? If so does one use the same thinner as used for their paints(That blue stuff)? Is the Polly Scale dullcoat pretty durable? One more thing, what's the best decal setting solution to use? I've only used the Microscale stuff for years and wouldn't mind experimenting. I noticed that Polly Scale also has decal set. I better quit, I'm making this too long, but it's hard not to ask so many questions when there are so many experts on the list. Thanks Rick Milas ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:25:23 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Toko W29 Message-ID: Dane, > Why do people bother with smelly, tempermental Dullcote? > > Polly Scale Flat finish is so easy to use, does not attack > the paint and > decals underneath, does not yellow, thins with water, cleans > with water > (though I usually end up giving the airbrush a quick swab with a small > amount of either alcohol or lacquer thinner), and dries very > quickly to a > beautiful, almost-satin, almost matt finish. > Dries in mid flight, beads on the surface, drives me nuts, just like Aeromaster Flat acrylic. *Maybe* by the time it reaches me it's past its shelf life, but I'm wary of wrecking another model with it after the traumas it's caused me. OTOH if anyone can teach me how to make it work properly, they'll have a bald fat ole guy as a friend for life ;-) Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:25:27 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: dullness wasRe: Toko W29 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/6/99 9:17:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, 2814823733@home.com writes: << Why do people bother with smelly, tempermental Dullcote? Polly Scale Flat finish is so easy to use, >> I never use the aerosol Dullcote, I always airbrush. By fidgeting around with the airbrush, I can control the amount of dullness.With other substances, I've found that they abrade easier- especially most water based products. I know Dullcote has a reputation for yellowing, but I've never had a problem. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 22:21:05 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990106222105.0070558c@mail> At 10:00 PM 06/01/99 -0500, you wrote: >> Len writes: >> >> >>>> >>>I know how you feel. I recently finished a Pegasus W.29 and wasn't >>>real pleased with the finish. I kind of screwed up the clear coats >>>but, when the Toko W.29 gets here I'll have another go at it. >>>> >>>Len >> >> Len, >> >> I've got the Toko W.29, and it looks nice, but the lozenge decal patern >> looks like it's too big. I haven't compared it to the Datafile yet, though. >> >> I've also had problems with my clear coats. The models that I finish in >> Future for that new, glossy look turn out fine, but the ones I spray with >> Testors Dullcote always get the "blotchy decal" syndrome. I can't figure >> out what's wrong with what I'm doing. Any suggestions from the list? > >Kevin, > From my viewpoint, the Dull Coat is where you are going wrong. Try >using either AeroMaster Clear Flat or the Polly Scale Clear Flat. >They are both from the same can, and I think they are the old Polly S >formula. At any rate, you can put it on from the bottle to get a >flat finish (close to a flat egg shell) or mix it in any ratio with >Future. The two are completely compatable with each other and you >can get any degree of flatness you want, and they clean up with water. Now this I didn't know. What great news. Could you also mix in regular Polly Scale paint in with Future? An r.m.s. correspondant once clued me in to mixing Polly Scale paint with Polly Scale Gloss, to produce a smooth, shiny finish that was both decal-ready and much tougher, less likely to scuff, and took masking much better than regular Polly Scale, which in my opinion doesn't mask well at all, and so I usually spray a coat of future in between colours to avoid pull-up. But Polly Scale Gloss is much more expensive than Future, so I would be a happy man if I found I could mix Polly Scale colours with Future. I really would. Dane >John > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:33:46 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <07334619121051@KAIEN.COM> > Robert K. > P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this machine was Richard > Kraut- no foolin'!) The pilot had long been identified as Richard Kraut, however some recent publication refutes this. .. but I can't think of it offhand . . . . Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 02:46:57 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <48de2b8a.36946671@aol.com> In a message dated 1/6/99 11:32:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, bpearson@kaien.com writes: << > Robert K. > P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this machine was Richard > Kraut- no foolin'!) The pilot had long been identified as Richard Kraut, however some recent publication refutes this. .. but I can't think of it offhand . . . . Bob >> Perhaps you could think of it onhand? Uh....anyway.... not only doubt about the pilot, but the source I remember gave a Jasta number that I've seen contradicted since. Unfortunately, I'm also aflicted with offhanded-itis tonight. Robert K.(watching as wife struggles with new fax machine...heeee...heeee..heeee) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:04:06 -0800 (PST) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <199901070804.AAA17929@compass.OregonVOS.net> Bob Pearson writes: >> Robert K. >> P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this machine was >Richard >> Kraut- no foolin'!) >The pilot had long been identified as Richard Kraut, however some recent >publication refutes this. .. but I can't think of it offhand . . . . Actually, Franks et al, list a Ltn d.R. Richard Kraut with Jasta 4 from August 3, 1918 until October 25 and with Jasta 66 from October 25 until the end of the war. Ltn d. R. Kraut is credited with one victory on September 26, 1918. Dunno whether Kraut was actually the pilot of the referenced D.VII (as I can't seem to find a copy of the referenced photo in any of my books) but Richard Kraut apparently actually existed as a real Jasta pilot. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 02:09:56 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Check this Profile Message-ID: <01BE39E2.D3D81B20.panz-meador@vsti.com> what are you knuckleheads all doing up at this time of day???? i think the original scan came from the old "color profiles of ww1 aircraft" by the italians. very striking, what with being covered with lower lozenge, eh? i'll look around my meager resources later... phillip -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shatzer [SMTP:bshatzer@orednet.org] Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 2:05 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Check this Profile Bob Pearson writes: >> Robert K. >> P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this machine was >Richard >> Kraut- no foolin'!) >The pilot had long been identified as Richard Kraut, however some recent >publication refutes this. .. but I can't think of it offhand . . . . Actually, Franks et al, list a Ltn d.R. Richard Kraut with Jasta 4 from August 3, 1918 until October 25 and with Jasta 66 from October 25 until the end of the war. Ltn d. R. Kraut is credited with one victory on September 26, 1918. Dunno whether Kraut was actually the pilot of the referenced D.VII (as I can't seem to find a copy of the referenced photo in any of my books) but Richard Kraut apparently actually existed as a real Jasta pilot. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:04:23 -0200 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: "WW1 mailing list" Subject: Roland Image Message-ID: <00e801be3a25$1abc46a0$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> About that picture on the Ebay site, I must say it looks neat. I copied the image and compared it to the datafile # 49. The machine gun seems to be a captured Lewis gun, see caption 17. This not seems to be the same airplane, since the gun ring and wing colour appears to be different. The Ebay picture is grainy, and I can't identify if the crew were the same. Besides,if you look carefully, you can see that's a slightly mottled effect on the darker upper surfaces, as well as a blurred demarcation line between dark and light shades on the fuselage sides. I'm wondering if this is a result of the poor definition of the photograph or an overspray of (green?) paint over the light grey factory finish, in an attempt to camouflage the plane from above. Since I'm still drawing the interior I have some questions about Rolands too: Does anyone knows which were the interior colors? there's some difference between planes with different gun rings? A different manufacturer, perhaps? Maybe the answer is on the article "Roland C.II Cockpits," WWI Aero No. 140, May 1993. Does anyone have a copy? Help Thanks to all D. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 05:10:21 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <19990107.052136.-844463.2.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:24:31 -0500 (EST) Shane Weier writes: > Dries in mid flight, beads on the surface, drives me nuts, just > like Aeromaster Flat acrylic. > > *Maybe* by the time it reaches me it's past its shelf life, but > I'm wary of wrecking another model with it after the traumas > it's caused me. OTOH if anyone can teach me how to make it work > properly, they'll have a bald fat ole guy as a friend for life > ;-) Maybe your problem is not only humidity. What thinner are you using? How about trying windshield washer fluid. Maybe for you a larger fluid-to-Aeromaster ratio is needed. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 05:14:48 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <19990107.052136.-844463.3.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:27:17 -0500 (EST) "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> writes: > Now this I didn't know. What great news. Could you also mix in > regular Polly Scale paint in with Future? An r.m.s. > correspondant once clued me in to mixing Polly Scale paint with > Polly Scale Gloss, to produce a smooth, shiny finish that was > both decal-ready and much tougher, less likely to scuff, and > took masking much better than regular Polly Scale, which in my > opinion doesn't mask well at all, and so I usually spray a coat > of future in between colours to avoid pull-up. This tends to be a problem with people just starting out with Polly Scale. One word comes to mind, more than once: clean, clean, clean. Be sure your model is very clean before starting to paint. Very clean. What I usually do is wash the model on the sprue with dish soap a couple of times before starting to model. Once the model is ready for painting, then I clean with Polly S' "Plastic Prep" once with a toothbrush. This usually works. However, with some of the Eastern European/CIS kits lately, all this cleaning isn't enough. At that point you need a good primer coat. > But Polly Scale Gloss is much more expensive than Future, so I > would be a happy man if I found I could mix Polly Scale colours > with Future. I really would. Although I haven't done so, mixing Polly Scale with Future should be no problem at all. They're both acrylics. Just be sure to thin appropriately before spraying. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 05:08:29 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: clear coats Message-ID: <19990107.052135.-844463.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:23:08 -0500 (EST) Rick Milas writes: > All this talk about clear coats is very interesting. I've been > wanting to ask some questions on the list about them and I guess > now is the time. For years I've used Testors Dullcoat and > Glosscoat. I spray them on with an airbrush thinning them about > one to one with Testors Laquer Brush Cleaner(not always carried > by hobby shops). My results are fine, but I'd like to try > something different. I find that Microscale decal set distorts > Glosscoat with a flat appearance that can be hard to hide with > the next coating, even if its Dullcoat. Also I find that > Dullcoat is not that durable, it gets shiny even with very > careful handling. Anyone else have these experiences? The point > however is I don't know what else to use. I've never tried > Future. It sounds like lots of you like it. If I airbrush it > do I need to thin it? With what? How much? Is it fairly quick > drying? I've been tempted to try the Polly Scale stuff. I like > their paints. Do the Poly Scale coatings have to be thinned? > If so does one use the same thinner as used for their > paints(That blue stuff)? Is the Polly Scale dullcoat pretty > durable? One more thing, what's the best decal setting solution > to use? I've only used the Microscale stuff for years and > wouldn't mind experimenting. I noticed that Polly Scale also > has decal set. I better quit, I'm making this too long, but > it's hard not to ask so many questions when there are so many > experts on the list. Thanks You can spray Future straight from the bottle, but only if it's a relatively new bottle. If it's been laying around for awhile, you better thin it. I've been thinning all my acrylics lately with windshield washer fluid. Works better than straight water. I would thin any Polly Scale if you plan on airbrushing it. However, it doesn't have to be thinned alot. The most I have ever thinned Polly Scale is 1/3rd thinner to 2/3rds paint. Usually I can get away with a ratio smaller than that. I have not noticed any "shining" that has happened due to handling. FWIW, I have used Polly Scale since it came out, and before that used primarily Polly S. The Polly Scale formula is worlds better than Polly S. About decal setting solutions. I too primarily use Microscale, but have a bottle of SolvaSet lying around for those tough decals - or for the extremely difficult model. However, be aware that SolvaSet won't work on all decals - there are some it will literally melt away. I've used it with Americal, so at least those are safe to use with SolvaSet. HTH Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 07:59:44 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: Dane writes: >Polly Scale Flat finish is so easy to use, does not attack the paint and >decals underneath, does not yellow, thins with water, cleans with water >(though I usually end up giving the airbrush a quick swab with a small >amount of either alcohol or lacquer thinner), and dries very quickly to a >beautiful, almost-satin, almost matt finish Dane, OK, I have some Polly Scale Flat somewhere around here. I'll use it next time. Thanks. Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:14:33 -0600 From: "John C Glaser" To: Subject: RE: Check this Profile Message-ID: <000001be3a37$492498a0$f011820a@johng-home> Yes it's definitely in the Apostolo book. I just checked.... On page 183. My first wife "lost" my original copy of the Apostolo book about 10 years ago when we moved from New York to New Orleans. Another reason she's gone. Got another copy (wife and book) a couple of years back. BTW Robert, 143 years old today would put your birth year at 1855 - 1856, making you well into your 60's during the war - an old geezer then too. Or maybe you were born an old geezer - same as me. - John -----Original Message----- From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 2:11 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: RE: Check this Profile what are you knuckleheads all doing up at this time of day???? i think the original scan came from the old "color profiles of ww1 aircraft" by the italians. very striking, what with being covered with lower lozenge, eh? i'll look around my meager resources later... phillip -----Original Message----- From: Bill Shatzer [SMTP:bshatzer@orednet.org] Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 2:05 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Check this Profile Bob Pearson writes: >> Robert K. >> P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this machine was >Richard >> Kraut- no foolin'!) >The pilot had long been identified as Richard Kraut, however some recent >publication refutes this. .. but I can't think of it offhand . . . . Actually, Franks et al, list a Ltn d.R. Richard Kraut with Jasta 4 from August 3, 1918 until October 25 and with Jasta 66 from October 25 until the end of the war. Ltn d. R. Kraut is credited with one victory on September 26, 1918. Dunno whether Kraut was actually the pilot of the referenced D.VII (as I can't seem to find a copy of the referenced photo in any of my books) but Richard Kraut apparently actually existed as a real Jasta pilot. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 22:38:29 +0000 From: "David R.L. Laws" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Albatros D.II & D.III Oeffag Book Message-ID: <36953765.61E1@webtime.com.au> Graham Nash wrote: > > "David R.L. Laws" wrote: Carlos > > > > Could someone please say who CSM are and what sort of quality these books/ magazines offer ? > > CSM is Copper State Models (website http://www.amug.org/~copperst/) for 1/48th resin kits. > Regards > Uncle Sniffy Fruity gets the dummy of the week award .... again ! regards fruity ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 08:01:52 -0600 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: clear coats Message-ID: I have tried the Aeromaster clears, and at this point, will not go to anything else. Maybe I am old-fashioned, but I have used their own thinner and had no problems with spraying. I only dilute it at roughly a 3-to-1 paint to thinner ratio. I think it is already quite thin right out of the bottle. The clear comes out of my very well-worn airbrush smoothly, and lays on the model quite nicely. The flat is not a dead flat finish, but seems to be more of an egg-shell flat in my experience. IMO this looks better than a dead flat finish. I always spray gloss first, decal the model, and finish up with either flat or semi-gloss, depending on the model. Another point to consider is to look at the color in the bottle. The Testors Gloss and Dull Coats are amber, while the Aeromaster is clear, or what we ex-antique restorers call "water white". This amber color definitely changes the colors of your paint, and will also yellow the model with time (especially whites and light colors--which I really found out on an off topic F-14 Tomcat many years ago). The Aeromaster clear should not affect the change in color over time, but we will see. Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:42:58 -0600 (CST) From: Rick Milas To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: clear coats Message-ID: Matt, Thanks for the helpful info on clearcoats. I'd like to switch to acrylics, and now may be the time. Rick Milas ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:00:37 -0500 From: "David Vosburgh" To: "WWI Mailing List" Subject: Model Ts Message-ID: <002d01be3a4e$7cbbdfe0$07d690d0@Pvosburg> The best case scenario here, folks, would be if somebody could tell me that there's a 1:48 Ford Model T kit available somewhere. Since I doubt there is, I'm mentally preparing myself for the eventuallity of having to scratchbuild one. Based on some photos in "On Silver Wings" and some input from Dave Fletcher, I've conceived a great desire to have an RAF example sporting Hucks starter gear to go with my inter-war projects. If anyone has attempted this, or could supply info on the differences between the UK and US Model Ts, sources for drawings, photos, etc. I would appreciate it greatly. Robert, was the truck in your 94th Aero diorama based on a T chassis? Does anyone know of somebody at Shuttleworth with an e-mail address, since they apparently have an genuine example? TIA Dave V. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:21:32 -0200 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Model Ts Message-ID: <000a01be3a49$0a733aa0$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> Hi Dave: take a look at http://chide.museum.org.uk/shuttleworth.collection/shuttleworth.index.html for addesses, and maybe the owner of the page can contact them for you. As a matter of fact, if you have the book "Wind in the wires" there's a nice caption of this starter car. It even made me dream about a companion for my future Hawker Fury. For cars, you have a source at http://www.halcyon.com/shamrock/sg/afvkit3.htm , there's all 1/72 scale, but contact Mr. John McEwan for more information. I bought a pair of withe metal kits weeks ago and they seem a good starting point for something decent. D. PS: On silver wings looks like a very interesting book. How can I find it? -----Mensaje original----- De: David Vosburgh Para: Multiple recipients of list Fecha: Jueves 7 de Enero de 1999 1:01 PM Asunto: Model Ts >Does anyone know of somebody at Shuttleworth with an e-mail address, since >they apparently have an genuine example? > >TIA > >Dave V. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 15:52:36 +0000 From: Graham Nash To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Model Ts Message-ID: <199901071553.KAA27970@egate2.citicorp.com> David and Diego In addition to anything the inestimable but suspiciously long-lived Mr RK can offer (if the recent thread is anything to go by, Robert must have OWNED a 'T'), I have some scans from Airfix magazine that deal with the military model T and Hucks' starter version. If you would like them please let me know. Regarding 'On Silver Wings', I know that David V, had a nice gift from Santa. Copies can be found on the Web (contact me off-list if interested, as, with the exception of a chapter on the Snipe, the book is off-topic, although its' heart is in the right place!) Uncle Sniffy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:03:11 -0600 From: "John C Glaser" To: "WW1 Mail List" Subject: The Myth of Democratic Pacifism Message-ID: <000401be3a5f$9b789e30$f011820a@johng-home> Interesting editorial in today's Wall Street Journal on the subject. Complete with a picture of Kaiser Bill. Check it out. States a premise that I didn't know was true. WW1 Germany was a functioning social democracy with universal male suffrage, civil rights and an elected parliament. Also states that Wilson's pitch for the war to make the world safe for democracy was just propaganda, casting democracy as good and "Prussian dictatorship" as evil. Interesting. - John ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:21:11 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <6046faaa.3694ed07@aol.com> In a message dated 1/7/99 12:05:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, bshatzer@orednet.org writes: << Actually, Franks et al, list a Ltn d.R. Richard Kraut with Jasta 4 from August 3, 1918 until October 25 and with Jasta 66 from October 25 until the end of the war. Ltn d. R. Kraut is credited with one victory on September 26, 1918. Dunno whether Kraut was actually the pilot of the referenced D.VII (as I can't seem to find a copy of the referenced photo in any of my books) but Richard Kraut apparently actually existed as a real Jasta pilot. Cheers and all, Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum.">> The one picture I have is from the book In The Cockpit-Flying the World's Greatest Aircraft. It shows the RK D VII in a line up with three other Fokkers and the caption says it's Jasta 66 and RK is Leutnant der Reserve Richard Kraut. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:21:15 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Model Ts Message-ID: <3088a1b0.3694ed0b@aol.com> In a message dated 1/7/99 7:01:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, dave@vga- graphics.com writes: << If anyone has attempted this, or could supply info on the differences between the UK and US Model Ts, sources for drawings, photos, etc. I would appreciate it greatly. Robert, was the truck in your 94th Aero diorama based on a T chassis? TIA Dave V.>> Unfortunately, my trucks were Fiats. When I started that diorama, I thought naturally I would be building Ford Ts. Boy, was I wrong. The great Fiat info search was a nightmare. I gotta say though, I enjoyed building the little buggers- some plastic and wood sticks, a block of wood covered in plastic sheet for the cowl. Great fun. The worst part was wheels. Spoked T wheels would've been easier- because I found a cheap toy motorcycle that had wheels the right size and with the correct number spokes, but no, I had to build a stupid Fiat and...stop me before I relapse! ....But...... I think I may some Model T stuff around. I've been keeping a mental backlog of things mentioned on the list in case I run across anything - maybe, just maybe 1999 will be the year I catalog all my junk. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:21:13 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <58aa94b3.3694ed09@aol.com> In a message dated 1/7/99 4:18:02 AM Pacific Standard Time, JohnGlaser@worldnet.att.net writes: << BTW Robert, 143 years old today would put your birth year at 1855 - 1856, making you well into your 60's during the war - an old geezer then too. Or maybe you were born an old geezer - same as me. - John >> Most likely- I was probably the only geezer in elementary school! RK ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:21:16 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Model Ts Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/99 7:54:43 AM Pacific Standard Time, graham.nash@citicorp.com writes: << Mr RK can offer (if the recent thread is anything to go by, Robert must have OWNED a 'T'), >> Another piece of frustration- my trucks were Fiats, and during the period I was building the diorama, a Ford dealership less than mile away had one of the first T trucks out front that was being restored, and most of the time it was just sitting on the lot allowing perfect access. I figured I'd get around to taking pictures, but alas, it went away. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:34:26 -0800 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <199901071732.RAA22579@beryl.sol.co.uk> > I can't seem to find a copy of the referenced photo in any of my books) > but Richard Kraut apparently actually existed as a real Jasta pilot. > > The one picture I have is from the book In The Cockpit-Flying the World's > Greatest Aircraft. It shows the RK D VII in a line up with three other Fokkers > and the caption says it's Jasta 66 and RK is Leutnant der Reserve Richard > Kraut. > Robert K. > Now that IS impressive referencing. As Bill said, it's easy to look up six or seven Grub Street books for any pilot so listed - but to pull Herr Kraut out of the hat like that really is the donkey's bollocks. (As they say in England.) Of course it's probably easier if you are 163 years old and spent your last few decades amongst clouds of mind-enhancing substances! Well done Sir. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:36:05 -0800 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <199901071734.RAA22620@beryl.sol.co.uk> > Most likely- I was probably the only geezer in elementary school! Ah but I am sure you spouted wisdom then too! Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:41:32 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: saws Message-ID: Any recommendations on size, make and type of saw I should get to hack off tail and wing flaps in order to reset them in a downward direction? I understand that a jeweler's saw is best. Is thact orrect? Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1368 **********************