WWI Digest 1367 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Help - Gnome Monosoupape by Charles Stephanian 2) Re: RMS Olympic Part 2 by Suvoroff@aol.com 3) RE: T-Zone wasRe: Olympic Model by Shane Weier 4) RE: Caproni Ca.3 by Shane Weier 5) Any Other RBII players out there? by "Tom Werner Hansen" 6) Re: Check this Profile by KarrArt@aol.com 7) Re: Glue by Pedro e Francisca Soares 8) RE: Check this Profile by Shane Weier 9) Voisin help by John Huggins 10) Re: Voisin help by Dennis Ugulano 11) RE: Voisin help by Shane Weier 12) Re: Toko Pfalz Wrap-up by lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) 13) Re: Whale picture on eBay by Ernest Thomas 14) Toko W29 by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 15) Sopwith Baby colours by mkendix 16) Re: Whale picture on eBay by MACFARB@aol.com 17) RE: Voisin help by Dennis Ugulano 18) FMP WAS: Voisin help by Shane Weier 19) Re: T-Zone wasRe: Olympic Model by Ernest Thomas 20) Re: Toko W29 by "K. Hagerup" 21) Re: Whale picture on eBay by bucky@ptdprolog.net 22) C&C Project Butterfly/5-color French Camo by mgoodwin@ricochet.net 23) Re: Toko W29 by John Huggins 24) RE: C&C Project Butterfly/5-color French Camo by Shane Weier 25) RE: Toko W29 by Shane Weier 26) Spray varnish was RE: Toko W29 by "Robert Woodbury" 27) Re: Rosecal by BStett3770@aol.com 28) Testors Dullcoat/ was: Toko W29 by mkendix 29) Re: Sopwith Baby colours by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 30) Re: Toko W29 by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 31) Re: Testors Dullcoat/ was: Toko W29 by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 32) Re: Sopwith Baby colours by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 33) Re: Toko W29 by "David Vosburgh" 34) RE: Toko W29 by Shane Weier 35) Re: Toko W29 by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 13:55:34 -0800 From: Charles Stephanian To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Help - Gnome Monosoupape Message-ID: <954FDA1EE71CD2118BAB00104B939AA8045CBB@serverx.sfai.edu> Does anyone know of a 100hp Gnome Monosoupape in 1/32 scale - or anything close that would be able to be converted. Pardon my ignorance, about the model engine and the real one...I'm working on a project in 1/32 that calls for an engine of this type. Thanks!! Charles T. charles@sfai.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:19:28 EST From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: RMS Olympic Part 2 Message-ID: <96a5df0d.3693e170@aol.com> I can't say anything much on the dazzle scheme but the bottom brownish- red paint is antifouling paint and would not have changed with changes in the topside colours. My 1926 Britannica says that the dazzle scheme originally used a variety of colours but it was eventually discovered that the scheme worked just as well with black, grays and blues, so these became the standard. Yours, James D. Gray ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:27:15 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: T-Zone wasRe: Olympic Model Message-ID: > It's been done. Rent the movie "Biggles" for some time travelling and > Sopwith stuff (along with a Stampe SV4 and a Steerman - but the public > doesn't know!). > Urrggghhh. Travesty. I don't know who made it but it turned my (Biggles loving) stomach Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:29:04 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Caproni Ca.3 Message-ID: Phillip, > > i suggest you contact the USAF museum research division at: > > http://www.wpafb.af.mil/museum/mua.htm > > they accept research requests via fax or mail (both fax > number and address listed, IIRC). > Letter went off yesterday asking about access to catalogue info, cost of copying, how to find out whats available etc. Thanks again' Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:04:27 +0100 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Any Other RBII players out there? Message-ID: <199901062258.XAA13454@d1o211.telia.com> Guys Are there any seasoned RBII players out there who'd care to answer a a few questions from a neophyte who can't fly right. Contact me off list and I*ll come back to you. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 18:15:13 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Check this Profile Message-ID: <612dc419.3693ee81@aol.com> In a message dated 1/6/99 5:04:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, smperry@mindspring.com writes: << Dear List: I ran across this profile and could not resist scanning & posting. Check it out. http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/RK.htm sp >> Well well, my little experiment has been found out. After sucessfully breeding dwarves (to approximately 1/37 the size of regular humans), I turned my attention to longevity, and am happy to report that I am actually 143 years old. An unlikely combination of nicotine, cheese and MEK was all it took. I'd like to extend this to my tiny work force, but it's well known that Dwarves don't like cheese. This would have been really helpful too, because do you know how hard it is to train the buggers to do rigging? I keep having to teach new ones and it's getting boring. Robert K. P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this machine was Richard Kraut- no foolin'!) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:37:34 +0000 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Glue Message-ID: <3693F3BD.19BB5F99@mail.telepac.pt> Bob Pearson wrote: > I swear by Faller Plastik Cement. > Bob Pearson > I've been using Revell contacta professional,the type that comes in a blue plastic dispenser with a long hypo needle that acts as aplicator, making it really easy to control the flow. IMHO this is a very good glue since it doesn't string and as a nice setting time, not too fast not to slow. I also use pure xylol (I try to always have the jar closed because of the fumes) and CA. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:47:30 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Check this Profile Message-ID: Robert, > P.S. on a different level, I think the real pilot of this > machine was Richard Kraut- no foolin'!) > Pictured in the D.VII datafile, probably on about page 3 IIRC. Name of pilot escapes me, but that does sound familiar if a little incongruous Shane ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:47:34 -0600 From: John Huggins To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Voisin help Message-ID: I have missed most of the postings about the Voisin, and have a few questions about the model. I have been looking in the FMP book and it looks like the wings are wrong. The span is correct for the 3, but the cord and ailerons are off. The kit wing matches the 1913/1913 Type L for cord aileron size and shape, but are too long. The tail booms and tail parts (elevator and rudder) also match the L plans but are very much under sized for the 3. The fuselage and engine are very close to the drawings and pictures for the Voisin 3 LAS but not the LA. The landing gear struts also appear to match the Type L and not the 3. From the drawings, it would be a simple matter to shorten the wings to the L length, but the fuselage and engine area would require major rework to backdate. On the other hand, the necessary changes to the fuselage for the 3 would be simple, but the wings would require a complete replacement. The tail booms would have to be rebuilt and new elevators and rudder made. Did I miss a set of drawings for a early production 3, or does the kit represent an L with increased wing span fuselage modifications for the salmson engine that was used as a prototype for the 3. Any thoughts from the learned list members. Without any changes, the kit would still be an interesting model. The rigging would require the help of at least 2 or three spiders and will provide plenty of practice for the IM kit that is on the list of kits to be done in 1999 along with the C-XVI that was used as fighter cover for it. John ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 19:14:52 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Re: Voisin help Message-ID: <199901061915_MC2-65C2-8231@compuserve.com> Hi John, >> I have been looking in the FMP book << I have seen these initials for a month now and have no idea what book is being referred to. Please, what does FMP mean. As for the Voisin, I read a post in early December that addressed your concerns. It seems the Flashback kit is combination of early and late Voisin's. I am just finishing mine and built it out of the box with no changes or modifications. Maybe another time I will correct problems. I hope to have a review on a web page in the next week or so and I will run through all of the problems I had and what I would do to solve/correct them the next time. This is not an easy kit to build. Maybe with this FMP book it would have been easier. Again, maybe next time. The rigging is a challenge because the model is so very delicate. I will tell all as soon as I get it on line. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:23:16 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Voisin help Message-ID: Dennis > I have seen these initials for a month now and have > no idea what > book is being referred to. Please, what does FMP mean. > Flying Machines Press. They have released several huge and beautiful books on WW1 aircraft, notably on Army Aircraft of the Austro Hungarian Empire, of Russia, and of France. There are a few others, in soft and hardback on VC and CMH winners, AustroHungarian Aces, the Sikorsky S-16 and Hansa-Brandenburg D-1. A tome by peter Grosz on the Pfalz aircraft is supposed to be first of a series on the German WW1 aircraft. Beautiful books, lots of pictures, profiles, drawings etc. BUT...as usual you need to read critically, because they aren't perfect and the list has pointed out quite a number of errors. OTOH, even at A$150 each I love the three BIG books. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 00:37:19 GMT From: lfendy@firstsaga.com (Leonard Endy) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko Pfalz Wrap-up Message-ID: <36940034.734948@legend.firstsaga.com> On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 08:05:30 -0500 (EST), you wrote: >Hi List, > >The worst parts of the kit are the Cabane struts. Cut the long ends off and >reattach separately. Okay, I'll keep an eye for this. > >The second worst part is the radiator, which isn't wide enough for the >front end of the plane. I did not come across this problem. The radiator on mine was a really good fit. > >I also had a lot of trouble with the interplane struts and wound up warping >my wings to get everything glued together. I'll see what happens with mine when I get to this stage. I just got a hold of some lozenge for it and I hope to get the paint/lozenge done this weekend and then to final assembly. I'll takes notes and report back. >Well, that's it. I really like the look of the Pfalz D.XII, but I'm a >little disappointed with my model. But, not to worry - the next one will be >better! > I know how you feel. I recently finished a Pegasus W.29 and wasn't real pleased with the finish. I kind of screwed up the clear coats but, when the Toko W.29 gets here I'll have another go at it. > Len ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 18:44:16 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Whale picture on eBay Message-ID: <36940360.412E@bellsouth.net> Sandy Adam wrote: > > > > have a quick squizzy at: > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=53049765 > > > Uncle Sniffy > > > > Nice photo - I grabbed the JPG of it for the web page. > Very nice - wonder what the colour demarcation is? Anybody have any views? > Sandy Looks like two different shades of grey. :) E. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:35:49 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Toko W29 Message-ID: Len writes: >> >I know how you feel. I recently finished a Pegasus W.29 and wasn't >real pleased with the finish. I kind of screwed up the clear coats >but, when the Toko W.29 gets here I'll have another go at it. >> >Len Len, I've got the Toko W.29, and it looks nice, but the lozenge decal patern looks like it's too big. I haven't compared it to the Datafile yet, though. I've also had problems with my clear coats. The models that I finish in Future for that new, glossy look turn out fine, but the ones I spray with Testors Dullcote always get the "blotchy decal" syndrome. I can't figure out what's wrong with what I'm doing. Any suggestions from the list? Kevin. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:57:00 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Sopwith Baby colours Message-ID: I am considering doing Eduard's Sopwith Baby, 1/72nd scale. A colour guide in the box calls for "cloth" and I was wondering what this is. Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:08:14 EST From: MACFARB@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Whale picture on eBay Message-ID: <7c8decbe.3694170e@aol.com> Looking this photo over.....Note the Lewis gun mounted forward of the pilot's cockpit....... VERY cool picture! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:16:15 -0500 From: Dennis Ugulano To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: RE: Voisin help Message-ID: <199901062116_MC2-65B9-A6C5@compuserve.com> Shane, Thank you very much. Now I know what everyone else is talking about. Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:24:46 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: FMP WAS: Voisin help Message-ID: Dennis, > Thank you very much. Now I know what everyone else is talking > about. > If you have web access you might like to look at http://www.flying-machines.com/ Really excellent books, at a price to match Shane ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:34:01 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: T-Zone wasRe: Olympic Model Message-ID: <36941D19.3166@bellsouth.net> KarrArt@aol.com wrote: > DV > (struggling to think of a way to get this thread back on-topic) > >> > > Ok....here's the path- "X-files" -> strange TV -> Twilight Zone- an episode > about an RFC pilot who flies through a hole in time in his Nieuport Touche' E. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:40:23 -0600 From: "K. Hagerup" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <36941E97.7CE3@prodigy.net> Kevin & Kimberley wrote: > I've also had problems with my clear coats. The models that I finish in > Future for that new, glossy look turn out fine, but the ones I spray with > Testors Dullcote always get the "blotchy decal" syndrome. I can't figure > out what's wrong with what I'm doing. Any suggestions from the list? Depends... If you are spraying the Dullcote on prior to the decals, the decals won't settle down well over the flat (i.e. rough) surface, and you'll end up with silvering due to trapped pockets of air. Decals work best over a glossy surface. If your problem comes when spraying Dullcote after the decals are on (and assuming there was no silvering or blotchiness prior to putting on the Dullcote), perhaps the Dullcote application is too thick. The easiest way to avoid this is to use an airbrush and thin the Dullcote with lacquer thinner. If you are using Dulcote from a spray can, you can get a thinner coat by warming the can in a pot of warm (not too hot) water. I find I get a flatter finish by speeding the drying of Dullcote with a hair dryer. It may also help the problem of the Dullcote attacking the underlying finish due to its lacquer-based solvent. The hair dryer helps to evaporate the solvent before it has enough time to react with the underlying coat of paint(or the decal) Ken ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 21:48:59 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Whale picture on eBay Message-ID: <3694209B.F22D0030@ptdprolog.net> Allan Wright wrote: > Can't you get arrested if you have a "quick squizzy" in public? Yeah, but I promise to get you the same deal I got Bob in Arizona on the counterfeiting rap. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 06:48:44 -0800 From: mgoodwin@ricochet.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: C&C Project Butterfly/5-color French Camo Message-ID: <3694C94C.7323@ricochet.net> Some months back someone was interested in borrowing the list library's old C&C issues containing the Project Butterfly articles - please ID yourself and send address in case I don't have it. Cheers, Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:00:03 -0600 From: John Huggins To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: > Len writes: > > >>> >>I know how you feel. I recently finished a Pegasus W.29 and wasn't >>real pleased with the finish. I kind of screwed up the clear coats >>but, when the Toko W.29 gets here I'll have another go at it. >>> >>Len > > Len, > > I've got the Toko W.29, and it looks nice, but the lozenge decal patern > looks like it's too big. I haven't compared it to the Datafile yet, though. > > I've also had problems with my clear coats. The models that I finish in > Future for that new, glossy look turn out fine, but the ones I spray with > Testors Dullcote always get the "blotchy decal" syndrome. I can't figure > out what's wrong with what I'm doing. Any suggestions from the list? Kevin, From my viewpoint, the Dull Coat is where you are going wrong. Try using either AeroMaster Clear Flat or the Polly Scale Clear Flat. They are both from the same can, and I think they are the old Polly S formula. At any rate, you can put it on from the bottle to get a flat finish (close to a flat egg shell) or mix it in any ratio with Future. The two are completely compatable with each other and you can get any degree of flatness you want, and they clean up with water. John ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:06:13 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: C&C Project Butterfly/5-color French Camo Message-ID: Riordan of a thousand names said: > Some months back someone was interested in borrowing the list > library's > old C&C issues containing the Project Butterfly articles - please ID > yourself and send address in case I don't have it. > Well, actually, it wasn't me. BUT.... in my last but one house move I lost a file containing C&C extracts which included these articles. Given that I'm away away in far away Australia, (and have a fair library anyway) I haven't asked for list library stuff before, but is there some way I could get a copy of *just* the Butterfly materials. (for purpose of fair useage for the purpose of research under various acts and statutes etc.) I may need to figure a way to pay Roryrororrory for dopy and postage though. Any ideas? Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:10:32 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Toko W29 Message-ID: John, > From my viewpoint, the Dull Coat is where you are going wrong. Try > using either AeroMaster Clear Flat or the Polly Scale Clear Flat. > They are both from the same can, and I think they are the old Polly S > formula. At any rate, you can put it on from the bottle to get a > flat finish (close to a flat egg shell) or mix it in any ratio with > Future. The two are completely compatable with each other and you > can get any degree of flatness you want, and they clean up with water. > I have had no luck with the Aeromaster acrylic flat whatever. It tends to dry in flight or beads up on the model, in either case causing orange peel and other nasty faults. The Aeromaster enamel flat works beautifully for me though. However - I can't get either the enamel semigloss or gloss to dry properly. They stay "tacky" and pick up fingerprints for ever. (And yes, I use Future for gloss, but sometimes need an enamel gloss to avoid upsetting watercolour pencil effects) Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:18:27 +0800 From: "Robert Woodbury" To: Subject: Spray varnish was RE: Toko W29 Message-ID: <000c01be39ec$647050e0$91107482@robertw-pc-fl.per.clw.csiro.au> Shane, I've also had troubles with spraying enamel varnish- it's probably something to do with the thinners used. One way around this is to use an already thinned varnish from the spray can. I attach a drinking straw to the spray nozzle and spray through this in to my airbrush cup then just spray away. I've had superb results ever since. Rob > However - I can't get either the enamel semigloss or gloss to dry > properly. They stay "tacky" and pick up fingerprints for ever. (And > yes, I use Future for gloss, but sometimes need an enamel gloss to avoid > upsetting watercolour pencil effects) > > Shane > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:17:55 EST From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Rosecal Message-ID: <9fc44337.36942763@aol.com> Hi John They work real nice if I say so myself :-) The idea is just as Matt answered in his post. We provide upper & lower black & silver overlay decals. Now we can do those twin radiator Alb DV's More to come in the future. Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby www.swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:31:50 -0500 (EST) From: mkendix To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Testors Dullcoat/ was: Toko W29 Message-ID: How about putting on Future on the surfaces to be decaled and then spraying Testors Dullcoat on top of the decals when they have dried (2 days)? Also, what about using decal set on the Future when applying the decals? A word of caution about Testors Dullcoat (maybe most of the list knows this) but if you spray it on too close and thick and don't keep moving the sprayer - it glops. When I tried to brush it after the glopping, the surface took on a crazy paving appearance (many cracks). It took a long time to get that lot off with paint thinner and sand paper. Michael mkendix@worthen.ihcrp.georgetown.edu On Wed, 6 Jan 1999, Shane Weier wrote: > John, > > > From my viewpoint, the Dull Coat is where you are going wrong. Try > > using either AeroMaster Clear Flat or the Polly Scale Clear Flat. > > They are both from the same can, and I think they are the old Polly S > > formula. At any rate, you can put it on from the bottle to get a > > flat finish (close to a flat egg shell) or mix it in any ratio with > > Future. The two are completely compatable with each other and you > > can get any degree of flatness you want, and they clean up with water. > > > > I have had no luck with the Aeromaster acrylic flat whatever. It tends > to dry in flight or beads up on the model, in either case causing orange > peel and other nasty faults. The Aeromaster enamel flat works > beautifully for me though. > > However - I can't get either the enamel semigloss or gloss to dry > properly. They stay "tacky" and pick up fingerprints for ever. (And > yes, I use Future for gloss, but sometimes need an enamel gloss to avoid > upsetting watercolour pencil effects) > > Shane > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:00:46 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Sopwith Baby colours Message-ID: <19990106.220100.-845099.2.mbittner@juno.com> On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:04:17 -0500 (EST) mkendix writes: >I am considering doing Eduard's Sopwith Baby, 1/72nd scale. A colour >guide in the box calls for "cloth" and I was wondering what this is. CDL - Clear Doped Linen. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:57:29 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <19990106.220100.-845099.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:00:35 -0500 (EST) John Huggins writes: > From my viewpoint, the Dull Coat is where you are going wrong. Try >using either AeroMaster Clear Flat or the Polly Scale Clear Flat. >They are both from the same can, and I think they are the old Polly S >formula. At any rate, you can put it on from the bottle to get a >flat finish (close to a flat egg shell) or mix it in any ratio with >Future. The two are completely compatable with each other and you >can get any degree of flatness you want, and they clean up with >water. Nope. The Polly Scale/Aeromaster is all new. I've used both the Polly S and Polly Scale, and the later is much different - and way better. Plus, they have a "satin" as well, if you go that route. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:03:25 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Testors Dullcoat/ was: Toko W29 Message-ID: <19990106.220326.-845099.3.mbittner@juno.com> On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:38:52 -0500 (EST) mkendix writes: >How about putting on Future on the surfaces to be decaled and then >spraying Testors Dullcoat on top of the decals when they have dried (2 >days)? Also, what about using decal set on the Future when applying >the >decals? A word of caution about Testors Dullcoat (maybe most of the >list >knows this) but if you spray it on too close and thick and don't keep >moving the sprayer - it glops. When I tried to brush it after the >glopping, the surface took on a crazy paving appearance (many cracks). >It took a long time to get that lot off with paint thinner and sand >paper. My usual method is, once the model is ready to be overcoated: Future (very glossy) Decals Future Final Overcoat (I personally like Satin on WW1's) Admire your excellent work ;-) The second coat of Future over the decals helps to hide any decal, and also seals the decals in well. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:11:42 -0800 (PST) From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Sopwith Baby colours Message-ID: <199901070411.UAA17409@compass.OregonVOS.net> Michael writes: > >I am considering doing Eduard's Sopwith Baby, 1/72nd scale. A colour >guide in the box calls for "cloth" and I was wondering what this is. Clear doped linen, otherwise refered to on the list as CDL. Depending on who ya' wanna listen to, its something between a slightly grayish off-white to a light tawny yellowish-brown. Its basically just the color of unbreached linen cloth covered with clear dope. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "Cave ab homine unius librum." ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:39:52 -0500 From: "David Vosburgh" To: Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <002701be39f7$c4e686a0$23d690d0@Pvosburg> Shane: Could this be because of the gazillion per-cent humidity you usually enjoy in sunny Gorokan? DV -----Original Message----- From: Shane Weier To: Multiple recipients of list Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 11:19 PM Subject: RE: Toko W29 >I have had no luck with the Aeromaster acrylic flat whatever. It tends >to dry in flight or beads up on the model, in either case causing orange >peel and other nasty faults. The Aeromaster enamel flat works >beautifully for me though. > >However - I can't get either the enamel semigloss or gloss to dry >properly. They stay "tacky" and pick up fingerprints for ever. (And >yes, I use Future for gloss, but sometimes need an enamel gloss to avoid >upsetting watercolour pencil effects) > >Shane > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 14:55:42 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Toko W29 Message-ID: Dave > >However - I can't get either the enamel semigloss or gloss to dry > >properly. They stay "tacky" and pick up fingerprints for ever. > Could this be because of the gazillion per-cent humidity you > usually enjoy in sunny Gorokan? > I wish it was so simple. Same problem inland where a summer day is 100F and desert dry. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 22:10:17 -0700 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Toko W29 Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19990106221017.00702bac@mail> Why do people bother with smelly, tempermental Dullcote? Polly Scale Flat finish is so easy to use, does not attack the paint and decals underneath, does not yellow, thins with water, cleans with water (though I usually end up giving the airbrush a quick swab with a small amount of either alcohol or lacquer thinner), and dries very quickly to a beautiful, almost-satin, almost matt finish. Dane ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1367 **********************