WWI Digest 997 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Fw: 1/72 Scale Aircraft Poll by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 2) Re: Kit suggestion/Pup-Whale & Fokker by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 3) Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by "Charles Duckworth" 4) Re: New WWI Machine Guns Book - not Aircraft related by MACFARB 5) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by KarrArt 6) Caproni Ca-3/Ca-5 by Eric Hotz 7) Morane-Saulnier BB by Eric Hotz 8) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by "Charles Duckworth" 9) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by Ernest Thomas 10) Farman Biplane site by "Charles Duckworth" 11) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by Ernest Thomas 12) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by The Shannons 13) Re: Farman Biplane site by "Lee Mensinger" 14) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by KarrArt 15) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by KarrArt 16) Re: Lohner Tripe by Chris Cato 17) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by KarrArt 18) Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) by Ernest Thomas 19) Re: quest by Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton 20) Re: quest by "Sandy Adam" 21) Re: Fw: 1/72 Scale Aircraft Poll by "Sandy Adam" 22) 1/72 Survey by Zouave7 23) Re: Lohner Tripe by perrysm@juno.com 24) Re: quest by "Jim Lyzun" 25) Re: quest by "Jim Lyzun" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 17:02:20 -0400 From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Fw: 1/72 Scale Aircraft Poll Message-ID: <199804252102.RAA00357@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 06:45 PM 4/24/98 -0400, The Bittners wrote: >Please, everybody respond to this message! I already have, and of course Matt Done...and I would have included it even if you hadn"t asked! My choices: Nie. 17, Albatros D-II, Hanriot HD-1, Albatros D-III and an SE5a(Since Revel doesn't seem to want to put these out anymore.) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 17:02:27 -0400 From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Kit suggestion/Pup-Whale & Fokker Message-ID: <199804252102.RAA00363@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 09:32 PM 4/22/98 -0400, Mountaineer wrote: >, so I need some advice on a good 1/72nd kit to start. Eric The Airfix Pup goes together nicely, and the struts line up ok with the small rig they include in the kit. The Airfix Roland is even easier, since the two wings are attached to the fuselage. I just finished the Whale, and it looks pretty good out of the box. The guns are poor. The only complaints I have with the kit are the lack of cockpit stuff and decals not being sized right. Even a seat and stool would be ok, but all the kit gives you are two pretty noticeable holes in the fuselage. Maybe it's not so bad if you are good enought to paint the two people and put them in...something way beyond my ability. As for the decals, the tail crosses on white field seem a little too big and when you tim them, they aren't nice squares, which is how they look to me in photos. For color schemes, my vote would go to the Revel Fokker D-VII. Lots of great stuff out there, both in after market decals and in recent articles on different color combinations...even so that you don't have to mess with lozenge decals if you don't want to. HTH Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 16:57:49 -0500 From: "Charles Duckworth" To: "ww1list" Subject: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <199804252156.QAA24714@mail.primary.net> Received the Pryo Boxkite this week and as amazed how large of a model this kit is. Does anyone have any recommendations for replicating the exposed wood members (ribs) that went on the outside of the CDL. The kits seems to have molded these with the fabric going over them but the photos I've seem of the Suttleworth replica have these exposed. One thought is removing these 'bumps' when I remove the fabric 'weave' and replace with some stained/varnished 'scale' wood used by model RRers. Any comments, as always, are appreciated. Charlie nb: FE2b ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 18:04:28 EDT From: MACFARB To: wwi Subject: Re: New WWI Machine Guns Book - not Aircraft related Message-ID: In a message dated 98-04-24 23:24:01 EDT, you write: << Windrow & Greene has published a new book titled 'Machine Guns of World War 1' under a series Live Firing Classic Military Weapons in Colour Photographs' by Robert Bruce. 128 pages, 250 color photos of equipment and soldiers firing them. Lots of detail photo, problems with weights and field conditions affecting ability to use these weapons, range etc. Covers Maxim Maschinengewehr 08, Maschinenewehr 08/15, Maschinenpistole 18/1, Vickers Mk 1, Lewis Mk 1, Hotchkiss Mle 1914 and Chauchat Mle 1915. $39.95 (USD). ISBN 1 85915 078 0, copyright 1997. If your into the history of the ground war you might want to look this book over. >> Yep ,this is a good 'un. It is well worth the money for anyone interested in the "grand old ladies of no-man's land" . There are loads of color pictures of reenacters in authentic uniforms and using scarce equipage and gun accessories which make it doubly valuable to the modeler. All photgraphed in their natural element : MUD! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 20:36:59 EDT From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <6e44d35d.354281ad@aol.com> In a message dated 98-04-25 17:56:36 EDT, you write: << Received the Pryo Boxkite this week and as amazed how large of a model this kit is. Does anyone have any recommendations for replicating the exposed wood members (ribs) that went on the outside of the CDL. The kits seems to have molded these with the fabric going over them but the photos I've seem of the Suttleworth replica have these exposed. One thought is removing these 'bumps' when I remove the fabric 'weave' and replace with some stained/varnished 'scale' wood used by model RRers. Any comments, as always, are appreciated. Charlie >> To replicate the wooden rib beading on a 1/48 Bleriot, I used decals- in this case I started with clear decal paper and put SEVERAL thick coats of craft acrylic on it to build up the thickness, using "woody" colors.When this dried, I cut into thin strips and applied in the usual way. I considered using thin plastic strips or real wood, but I think I achieved scale thickness easier and with much less cussing using paint thickened decals. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 17:11:51 -0700 From: Eric Hotz To: wwi Subject: Caproni Ca-3/Ca-5 Message-ID: I have always wondered about the Ca-3/Ca-5 aircraft in regards to the rear gunner. Does any body know if this was guy stuck in his gun position for the duration of the flight, or is there a cockpit he could climb into during the flight? I noticed that the plans I have for the aircraft (the Ca-3) do not show what is going on behind the pilot/co-pilots position (under the top wing). The aircraft's operational ceiling is about 14,000 feet, and since it was flying around the alps, it must have been very cold - the poor guy in the rear position was really areodymanically exposed to the elements, or was he left out of such missions to conserve weight/fuel and perhaps his life too? Eric Hotz ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 17:15:37 -0700 From: Eric Hotz To: wwi Subject: Morane-Saulnier BB Message-ID: I always liked the aircraft, the Morane-Saulnier BB and thought I would like to have a go at it as a 1/72nd scale scratch model. I have read that it had a front gun mounted on the wing top. I would you know if that would be like the Nieuport 11's Lewis Gun mounting? It was also equipped with a rear gun - I have a picture of a Morane-Saulnier Type "P" with what looks like a gun mount similar to that of a Nieuport 12's gun mounting: would anyone know what mounting types were employeed on the MS-BB? Eric Hotz ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 19:58:41 -0500 From: "Charles Duckworth" To: Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <199804260221.VAA07407@mail.primary.net> Robert did you remove the cast on ribbing or decal over it? ---------- > From: KarrArt > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) > Date: Saturday, April 25, 1998 7:41 PM > > In a message dated 98-04-25 17:56:36 EDT, you write: > > << Received the Pryo Boxkite this week and as amazed how large of a model this > kit is. Does anyone have any recommendations for replicating the exposed > wood members (ribs) that went on the outside of the CDL. The kits seems to > have molded these with the fabric going over them but the photos I've seem > of the Suttleworth replica have these exposed. One thought is removing > these 'bumps' when I remove the fabric 'weave' and replace with some > stained/varnished 'scale' wood used by model RRers. > > Any comments, as always, are appreciated. Charlie >> > > To replicate the wooden rib beading on a 1/48 Bleriot, I used decals- in this > case I started with clear decal paper and put SEVERAL thick coats of craft > acrylic on it to build up the thickness, using "woody" colors.When this dried, > I cut into thin strips and applied in the usual way. > I considered using thin plastic strips or real wood, but I think I achieved > scale thickness easier and with much less cussing using paint thickened > decals. > Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 21:34:54 -0500 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <35429D4E.6597@bellsouth.net> Charles Duckworth wrote: > > Received the Pryo Boxkite this week and as amazed how large of a model this > kit is. Does anyone have any recommendations for replicating the exposed > wood members (ribs) that went on the outside of the CDL. The kits seems to > have molded these with the fabric going over them but the photos I've seem > of the Suttleworth replica have these exposed. One thought is removing > these 'bumps' when I remove the fabric 'weave' and replace with some > stained/varnished 'scale' wood used by model RRers. > > Any comments, as always, are appreciated. Charlie > > nb: FE2b Charlie, No help from me on this question. I just wanted to let you know that I didn't get the check out yet, but it will go out monday. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 21:30:02 -0500 From: "Charles Duckworth" To: "ww1list" Subject: Farman Biplane site Message-ID: <199804260239.VAA10053@mail.primary.net> Was surfing for material on the Boxkite and found this neat site on the Farman, several period photos, nicely done color profile and color painting on one in flight - enjoy, Charlie http://archives.csudh.edu/airmeet/farm.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 21:46:05 -0500 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <35429FED.531C@bellsouth.net> KarrArt wrote: I considered using thin plastic strips or real wood, but I think I achieved > scale thickness easier and with much less cussing using paint thickened > decals. > Robert K. Yippee!!! Yet another stroke of craftiness from Robert the K. Was this the acrylic medium you've mentioned, or just acrylic paint? EtH ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:04:20 -0500 From: The Shannons To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <3542A433.F8127747@ix.netcom.com> KarrArt wrote: > In a message dated 98-04-25 17:56:36 EDT, you write: > > << Does anyone have any recommendations for replicating the exposed > wood members (ribs) that went on the outside of the CDL. > > Any comments, as always, are appreciated. Charlie >> > > To replicate the wooden rib beading on a 1/48 Bleriot, I used decals- in this > case I started with clear decal paper and put SEVERAL thick coats of craft > acrylic on it to build up the thickness, using "woody" colors.When this dried, > I cut into thin strips and applied in the usual way. > I considered using thin plastic strips or real wood, but I think I achieved > scale thickness easier and with much less cussing using paint thickened > decals. > Robert K. I was even simpler in replicating them on my Eduard Morane "L". I didn't try to get anything in the way of thickness, but used a finely sharpened colored pencil to draw them on. I've never had a lot of luck with getting really fine strips of decal cut, so I figured the look was more important than a thickness (so I'm lazy. Shoot me.) -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 22:49:32 -0500 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi, "Lee Mensinger" Subject: Re: Farman Biplane site Message-ID: <3542AECC.6BF9BA50@wireweb.net> Charles Duckworth wrote: > Was surfing for material on the Boxkite and found this neat site on > the > Farman, several period photos, nicely done color profile and color > painting > on one in flight - enjoy, Charlie > > http://archives.csudh.edu/airmeet/farm.htm Have you seen the full color 1911 Farman in the Images Gallery along with the 1917 Thomas Morse S4C and the 1909 Bleriot. There is more coming. Look often. Lee Mensinger ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:41:34 EDT From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <3ff0a7c3.3542acf0@aol.com> In a message dated 98-04-25 22:49:41 EDT, you write: << Yippee!!! Yet another stroke of craftiness from Robert the K. Was this the acrylic medium you've mentioned, or just acrylic paint? EtH >> It's el cheapo liquid craft stuff.Comes in a plastic squirty bottle. It can be mixed with medium, but for building up thickness, just the paint itself will do.The cheaper brands, like "Applebarrel" are less than a dollar for 2 ounces. A good medium priced brand is "Ceramcoat". Liquitex also makes this stuff. So far, all brands have mixed with Testors, Polly and ProModeller water model paints AND white glue for the odd translucent effect.It doesn't much care for Tamiya paints. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:41:35 EDT From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <57c605c3.3542acf1@aol.com> In a message dated 98-04-25 23:08:49 EDT, you write: << I was even simpler in replicating them on my Eduard Morane "L". I didn't try to get anything in the way of thickness, but used a finely sharpened colored pencil to draw them on. I've never had a lot of luck with getting really fine strips of decal cut, so I figured the look was more important than a thickness (so I'm lazy. Shoot me.) >> If laziness got one shot, I'd be twelve seperate bullet ridded bodies crumpled beside the big road to modeling bliss! To build up surfaces, I have sometimes masked off the afflicted area with non- cello tape (it's too thin to provide enough of a "dam" to hold the wet paint) thickly painted over, but the tape has to be STUCK DOWN TIGHT! And there's an art I haven't mastered yet about when to pull the tape off- too soon and your nice sharp raised line kinda plops and looses it's distinctive edge, too late and parts come off with the tape. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:56:48 -0400 (EDT) From: Chris Cato To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Lohner Tripe Message-ID: >chris: let me take a look and see what the FMP book has on this guy--i >seem to recall a unique arrangement of the wings. the tripe bomber i was >thinking about was a lloyd, by the way. top 10 most grotesque... > >phillip > >p.s. checked your website--could you repair that link to the "black >project" active camo at the bottom of page 1(?)--the reference to the >TBMs >with lamps looked interesting. >TIA Thanks Phillip! I seem to recall seeing pics of the Lloyd - you are absolutely correct in your assesment! I got the link from my pages fixed - been quite a while since I've made any changes to those pages. The reference is actually from an article in Popular Science that has been reprinted on the Project Black site. Alas, no photos, nor have I found any real independent confirmation of this project. To bring this a little more on topic where the props on Pfalz D.III's a light/dark lamination or just straight darker wood? I can't seem to find good confirmation in my meager sources. Chris Cato ------------------------------------------------- email at: tcato@bgnet.bgsu.edu webbed at: http://www.bgsu.edu/~tcato/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:41:33 EDT From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <586738c3.3542acef@aol.com> In a message dated 98-04-25 22:22:22 EDT, you write: << Robert did you remove the cast on ribbing or decal over it? >> My wings were scratch built, but based on the Pyro kit.There's quite a bit of fabric sag on a Bleriot with sharp-topped distinct ribs, unlike later WW I types, but I put the decals right on over this. I don't know how much relief is molded into the Boxkite kit wings. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 01:28:43 -0500 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Bristol Boxkite Recommendations (wanted) Message-ID: <3542D41B.6574@bellsouth.net> The Shannons wrote: > > I was even simpler in replicating them on my Eduard Morane "L". I didn't try to > get anything in the way of thickness, but used a finely sharpened colored pencil > to draw them on. I've never had a lot of luck with getting really fine strips of > decal cut, so I figured the look was more important than a thickness (so I'm > lazy. Shoot me.) > > -- > This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon > at Shingend@ix.netcom.com > > History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. Mark and/or Mary, (mind if I call you 'and/or'? For cutting thin strips of decal film, I CA 2 Xacto blades together. I can adjust the width of the strip by shimming the blades with whatever is the right thikness. I can also decrease the width of the strip by making a wedge that seperates the top and tang of the blades while moving the cutting edges together. Sort of a V channel with the joint running parrallel to the cutting edge of the blade, if you can picture it. But just 2 blades glued flat together with no shim will give you a strip of film wider than Aeromaster rib tapes, but narrower than Superscale tapes, in 1/48 of course. YMMV. Happy modeling EtH ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:05:12 -0700 From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton To: wwi Subject: Re: quest Message-ID: <354403F8.4FE@connectorsystems.co.nz> Jim In answer to your questions about orders. Mostly I order accessories through the net, far more rarely a kit and then only if it's hard to get locally or if it's at a good price on the web. Generally orders are for half a dozen or so items at one time. How's that TT Avenger coming along? Aidrian Aidrian ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 11:05:05 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: quest Message-ID: <199804261014.LAA28876@beryl.sol.co.uk> > 1. How much of your order is for accessories (eg decals, > photo-etched,etc)? I've never ordered only accessories via the net - if I'm getting a kit or a book I may add accessories as well to hit postage breaks or whatever. > 2. How many decal sheets or resin sets or etched metal sets would you > order at one time? If I had to have the items and could only get them from one supplier, I would order a bunch at one time to save postage costs. I have regularly used the net to order books and kits, but accessories very seldom. These I would usually get by phoning Aeroclub. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 11:16:44 +0100 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Fw: 1/72 Scale Aircraft Poll Message-ID: <199804261017.LAA28920@beryl.sol.co.uk> I suggest the following: Handley Page v/1500 Linke-Hoffman R.II Caproni Ca4 Curtiss H-12 Blackburn Kangaroo Let's face it, anything smaller than an R-type is just plain daft in 1/72, in't it? Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 07:38:54 EDT From: Zouave7 To: wwi Subject: 1/72 Survey Message-ID: <5694738f.35431ccf@aol.com> When you are not mentioning what kits you voted for don't forget to not mention the RAF FE-2b! James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 07:22:13 -0400 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Lohner Tripe Message-ID: <19980426.080649.3878.0.perrysm@juno.com> On Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:59:45 -0400 Chris Cato writes: >To bring this a little more on topic where the props on Pfalz D.III's >a >light/dark lamination or just straight darker wood? I can't seem to >find >good confirmation in my meager sources. > >Chris Cato > Chris: I have the Pfalz D.III Datafile on loan from the list library. Most of the photos clear enough to show prop detail show a light/dark laminated prop. sp _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 10:31:49 -0400 From: "Jim Lyzun" To: wwi Subject: Re: quest Message-ID: <35434555.7C1E@baynet.net> > How's that TT Avenger coming along? Thanks for the reply Adrian. Unfortunately very little has been gracing my model table lately. I'm trying to move on a RAAF Cessna 180 I started way back. Received tons of great references from your side of the world on it but the Monogram kit is a bugger to work with. I still have my eye on the Avenger though and it will be so much nicer to work on. Jm L ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 10:58:31 -0400 From: "Jim Lyzun" To: wwi Subject: Re: quest Message-ID: <35434B97.1768@baynet.net> My apologies to the group for my previous transmission, especially given the content, as I thought I was sending to Aidrian off-line. Jim L ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 997 *********************