WWI Digest 962 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: I finished another one by KarrArt 2) Re: maiming Jim by KarrArt 3) Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please by ModelerAl 4) Re: new member returns by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 5) 80th anniversary of the RAF by Peter Mitchell 6) Re: 80th anniversary of the RAF by KarrArt 7) Another message for Maciej by mbittner@juno.com 8) Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please by mbittner@juno.com 9) Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please by huggins@onramp.net (John Huggins) 10) Senility Strikes again by Graham Nash 11) Alex Imries' German Fighter Units June 1917-1918 by Graham Nash 12) Spad XIII colors by lothar@televar.com (mark) 13) RE:...plus some talk on Future by "Fernando E. Lamas, M.D." 14) Re: Plywood finishes by Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton 15) Instrument Panels by perrysm@juno.com 16) Re: Instrument Panels by Don RInker 17) Re: Instrument Panels by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley Barrett) 18) Instrument Panels by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 19) Re: ...plus some talk on Future by mbittner@juno.com 20) Re: Armoured cars - RNAS especially -and steam lorries by aew (Allan Wright) 21) Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 22) Re: Spad XIII colors by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 23) Re: ...plus some talk on Future by Graham Nash 24) Re: Spad XIII colors by The Shannons 25) Re: Instrument Panels by Ernest Thomas 26) Re: Instrument Panels by "Rob." 27) RE:...plus some talk on Future by "Rob." 28) Re: Senility Strikes again by "Rob." 29) Eduard Factory Destroyed!!! by Don RInker 30) RE: April Squadron Sale by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:29:33 EST From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: I finished another one Message-ID: <921f3a9e.3521b49f@aol.com> In a message dated 98-03-31 18:53:42 EST, you write: << Oh the sweet smell of victory: I've just put another one in the shelf. >> give that man a big round of applause! Robert K. ( still locked in a vicious life-or-death struggle with a H-P 0/400- quick somebody hand me a mop for the blood) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:29:34 EST From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: maiming Jim Message-ID: In a message dated 98-03-29 13:24:01 EST, you write: << Ok, ok! I'll talk! http://www.mindspring.com/~jmw3/wwi/models/e3.html >> Hey Jim A little late, but I read your how-to about the E III diorama- good stuff, and once again- that dog! Dogs are absolutely indispensible in any WW I setting! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:31:13 EST From: ModelerAl To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please Message-ID: <6ba66337.3521b504@aol.com> Lee Mensinger wrote: >I have used Paasche since 1962. I have never been sorry. >Started with the H model, #1 and #3 heads and air caps. Still >have it and still use it. I prefer tha 25 pound CO2 tanks over >compressors. Quiet, safe, consistant, noisless and never a >problem with water condensation and spitting. The tank takes two >gauges. One to indicate internal tank pressure and one >adjustable for output. I too have used Paasche brushes (Models "H' and "VL") for years, along with the same CO2 setup as Lee. I also use a paint both which exhausts to the outside. There have been a number of threads on these subjects on the rec.models.scale Newsgroup -- a search with Deja News would yield *lots* of info. For help with learning how to use Deja News, check the article on my home page (unabashed self-promotion). HTH, Al http://users.aol.com/modeleral ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 19:56:10 -0800 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Re: new member returns Message-ID: <3521BADA.6649@ricochet.net> Eric Fisher wrote: >I'm afraid I have no real knowledge of > WWI aviation--just a long interest. I don't know if all of us would claim 'real' knowledge; you'll find that much of the detail of WWI aviation history is rather elusive... I haven't built a model since kid-hood, so am presently really > intimidated by the incredible skill I see so many listers have Don't be. Some of us have to get by on stubborn persistance rather that skill. (not only great modelers but diorama builders, artists, writers, historians, There are a few listers with interesting aviation fetishes, such as, oh, for example the Russian Civil War, Ottoman Turkish Air Force, Central Powers heavy bombers, Nieuport Fighters, etc. > This is certainly the place to learn but lots & lots of practice & skill is in order, I'm sure! I've found perhaps the most useful skill is patience...but practice on inexpensive kits also helps! And you'll probably find between the lot of us an answer (or opinion) to just about any question you might have about this fascinating period of aviation history - and modeling in general to lesser extent. Welcome. The list librarian ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 14:01:57 +1000 From: Peter Mitchell To: wwi Subject: 80th anniversary of the RAF Message-ID: Is not today 1st April 1998 the 80th anniversary of the RAF? No joke...... :-) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 23:07:06 EST From: KarrArt To: wwi Subject: Re: 80th anniversary of the RAF Message-ID: <778b50ec.3521bd6c@aol.com> In a message dated 98-03-31 23:04:11 EST, you write: << Is not today 1st April 1998 the 80th anniversary of the RAF? No joke...... :-) >> By gum and by golly, I believe this man's correct! Boom Boom! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:25:08 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Another message for Maciej Message-ID: <19980331.222509.14278.5.mbittner@juno.com> Maciej, Did you receive my address? Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:16:48 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please Message-ID: <19980331.222041.14278.0.mbittner@juno.com> I seem to be in the extreme minority with my Thayer & Chandler airbrushes. I guess I'm the only one who really knows...:-) Oops! I forgot that our own Erik Pilawskii uses a T&C - due to my recommendations, of course. ;-) Seriously, the T&C's are quite wonderful. They're the same airbrushes being put out by Pro Modeler. Last year at the US Nationals a Pro Modeler representative asked if I wanted to try the "new" airbrush. I looked at the airbrush and told him that I have been using mine for months, thank you very much. He seemed perplexed because they were just released not long before Nationals until I told him those are just T&C's with a new name to them. Even though I have not used Paashe nor Badger, I would say put your money on a T&C. A few years ago when I called T&C asking for parts for my old airbrush, they mentioned that the model I had was discontinued a number of years. However, the woman I talked to then mentioned that they were willing to give me 50% off any of the new airbrushes of my choice. Amazing. I have not heard that type of customer relation with any of the other companies. I own two T&C's: the older one is a single-action internal mix, while the newer one (the Vega 2000) is a double-action internal mix. Hopefully Erik will chime in here and back me up on just how great T&C airbrushes are. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:27:37 -0600 (CST) From: huggins@onramp.net (John Huggins) To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please Message-ID: Mike, Over the years I have used the T&C, Paasche F, H & VL, Testors Binks and Badger (3 different types). For many years, I only used the Paasche VL (internal mix double action). About 10 years ago, I started using a gravity feed Badger 200, then the gravity feed Badger 100. The 100 is also a double action internal mix airbrush. It is equil to the Paasche, only a lot lighter and more comfortable. I keep the fine needle in it. I have found that using the paints we modelers use most (Testors, Gunze and Aero Master) I can't tell any differance between the extra fine, fine and heavy needles and tips. The same thiing goes for compressors. I started with an innertube, went to canned air, then the diaphram type noisy monsters and on up the line. The current compressor (for the past 10 years) has been the Badger Silent 1. It costs a bit more up front, but it is worth it in the long run. I turned it on 10 years ago, and haven't turnred it off yet. It has a storage tank with a pressure switch. When I want to paint, I mix the color, pick up the brush and spray. After the clean up, I hang the brush back on its hanger till the next time. The compressor comes on when the tank presssure goes below 30psi, and turns off when the tank pressure hits 110psi. The air comming out of the brush makes more noise than the compressor. At this rate, I probably won't have to buy another compressor for another 30 plus years. Bottom line. Don't cut scrimp on the brush or the compressor. Get a good quality brush that you are comfortable with, then get a good quality compressor. It can be one like the Silent 1 that can be kept in the modeling area, or a large commercial one that has to be kept in the garage. Just get a good one. Keep the same thought for any of your main tools. Buy quality first. They will last much longer, work better for you, and end up costing less in the long run. (Old Farts soap box mode off) John >Mike Muth wrote > >> I used a can of compressed air. The >> studd doesn't seem to last too long and is awfully expensive. This was the >> first model I built with an airbrush. If I keep using it, I also wonder >> about a good yet inexpensive compressor. >> Mike Muth >> nb: Butch O'Hare's Wildcat (1/48); Roland Whale (1/72) >> nu: Maxwell's SE5a >> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:08:01 -0800 From: Graham Nash To: World War 1 Modelling List Subject: Senility Strikes again Message-ID: <199804010808.AA02371@egate2.citicorp.com> Having been vistor No.1 at the Southern Expo here in the UK (proudly wearing my badge and giving one to Ray Rimell-he 'lurks' chaps, so be careful what you say :^)), I just discovered last night that I had picked up a duplicate of Scale Models December 1977, which has a fine article and detailed 3-view drawings of the Felixstowe F.2A. Who would like to relieve me of my embarrassment for the princely sum of a measely e-mail in my direction. ALternatively, I'd be happy to donate this to the list library unless a copy is already held there. OK then,on your marks, get set... GO! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:11:12 -0800 From: Graham Nash To: World War 1 Modelling List Subject: Alex Imries' German Fighter Units June 1917-1918 Message-ID: <199804010812.AA02473@egate2.citicorp.com> Longtime vistors to the Swap n' Shop page will know that I am on the lookout for the captioned book. In the meantime, I obtained a copy via the Inter-library loan service, and have taken the opportunity to create a 'virtual copy'. Anyone else who would like a copy please contact me off-list. Happy modelling ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 00:12:39 -0800 (PST) From: lothar@televar.com (mark) To: wwi Subject: Spad XIII colors Message-ID: <199804010812.AAA18658@concord.televar.com> Greetings, gentlemen - I've been entertaining the possibility of taking a break from my occasionallly Pfrustrating Pfalz parasol project and tackling something relatively quicker and easier, so I can at least say I got **one** new model up on the display shelf this season. The Glencoe Spad XIII came to mind, specifically de Torenne's all buff colored plane, with the Spa 48 rooster emblem. My questions are: 1.) What would be a good color match (in the ballpark is good enough) for the overall buff color? A spray paint would be ideal... 2.) How about the light gray underside? TIA, Mark And in a related story...noticed in the new Squadron supplement that the reissued Eduard Fokker EIII - besides being on sale for $29.99 - comes with "Bavarian and Turkish markings"....So maybe Riordan and I aren't the only ones out there with an interest in this subject.... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 00:20:25 -0800 From: "Fernando E. Lamas, M.D." To: wwi Subject: RE:...plus some talk on Future Message-ID: At 06:49 PM 3/31/98 -0500, you wrote: > >Ola Fernando, were you sure that the paint was really dry. Never had = >that sort of trouble with future, always settled nice on her own, with = >no brush marks. Only had to take care not to let it accumulate on = >depressions on the kit. > Yes, it certainly was dry. I painted the top wing three weeks ago....went to a week long conference in San Francisco....came back and did all the rigging.... Bottom line: it was dry as a bone. I think I may have not had enough Future on the brush and did not properly "flood" the wing with the Future initially. After I started brushing, I noticed that the Future was starting to "gum up" and not brush smoothly. Brushmarks began to appear. I loaded up the brush with more Future which may have made the coating too thick and worsened the problem. After letting it dry overnight, it did not look as bad this morning. However, it was not as good as the great finish I got on the fuseage and the upper surface of the bottom wing. I know that "Future does not need to be thinned". However, maybe thinning it a bit may have avoided this problem. I also think that the Future applied with a Future-soaked Q-Tip turned out better than the Future applied with a brush. > >Um abraco >Pedro > Ata logo, Fernando ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 21:37:33 -0800 From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton To: wwi Subject: Re: Plywood finishes Message-ID: <3523241D.4DA7@connectorsystems.co.nz> Sorry for being so slow answering this Joey Valenciano wrote: > > > Please post the email address. Is this a crafts store? > These wood veneers would be useful in making laminated props. > Last address I had was . Lloyd Warner runs it as a sort of backyard operation, no credit cards. But he's got some lovely timber, mostly aimed at shipmodellers since he's one of the luminaries in the Nautical Research Guild, but they equally applicable to aircraft. He doesn't carry boxwood, claims it is too expensive( he's dead right) and says that there are other timbers just as good. Plenty of choice otherwise and available in small amounts. He'll probably send you a little sample packet of the different woods. Lot's of nice rigging line nd some neat blocks if you fancy a change of discipline. Aidrian ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 06:45:48 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Instrument Panels Message-ID: <19980401.064603.15190.1.perrysm@juno.com> Does anyone on the list have a slick trick for getting the size and shape of an instrument pannel or bulkhead correct when the kit doesn't have one and the available documentation doesn't show cross sections? Steven Perry perrysm@juno.com nb: Sierra Scale Spad A.4 (S.79 on Skis) 1:48 nu: Pegasus Albatros W.4 (747) 1:72 _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 07:05:35 -0500 From: Don RInker To: wwi Subject: Re: Instrument Panels Message-ID: <35222D8F.79FE@fast.net> perrysm@juno.com wrote: > > Does anyone on the list have a slick trick for getting the size and shape > of an instrument pannel or bulkhead correct when the kit doesn't have one > and the available documentation doesn't show cross sections? Make friends with someone who has a xerox copier with a percent type reduction feature. At the small sizes youre working at even if the machine has some exageration in the long axis, it shouldnt be a problem. Lay the part or plan on the plate, scan away. Same procedure can be done with flat bed scanner and an art progeam. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:13:10 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley Barrett) To: wwi Subject: Re: Instrument Panels Message-ID: Steve asks: >Does anyone on the list have a slick trick for getting the size and shape >of an instrument pannel or bulkhead correct when the kit doesn't have one >and the available documentation doesn't show cross sections? > Steve, You could always press a wad of Play Dough into the cavity and look at the shape of it when removed. Cut sheet plastic to the contour and test-fit. I think this might be the easiest way. Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:25:53 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Instrument Panels Message-ID: <19980401.072554.22862.0.perrysm@juno.com> Don & Kevin: Thanks for the tips. Two different and excellent methods. Now I've got the problem covered 7 days a week. If I need a panel or bulkhead M-F I can use the office coppier, Sat & Sun I can raid my daughter's play dough. Seriously, I see where I'll use both methods thanks again. sp _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 06:38:47 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: ...plus some talk on Future Message-ID: <19980401.065032.11462.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Wed, 1 Apr 1998 03:23:49 -0500 "Fernando E. Lamas, M.D." writes: > I know that "Future does not need to be thinned". However, maybe >thinning it a bit may have avoided this problem. Actually, this is wrong. I have had a bottle of Future I use on projects that's going on four years old. You *do* need to thin when the Future is this old, and starts getting thicker than it is brand new. New Future you do not need to thin. Old Future you probably do. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:58:07 -0500 (EST) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: Re: Armoured cars - RNAS especially -and steam lorries Message-ID: <199804011258.HAA03811@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > I contacted the bookseller and he has no more left, > the book was $ 35.00 , one of the copies arrived today > so one is missing, I already told the bookseller that if shows up > I'll send it direct to you and you can pay him > > Mean while if you want anything copied from this one , please > let me know > > SALUDOS > Alberto Thanks Alberto - you're a true friend....... =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:00:24 -0500 From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Airbrush/Air-source Recommendations, Please Message-ID: <199804011300.IAA03863@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 11:30 PM 3/31/98 -0500, John Huggins wrote: >> Bottom line. Don't cut scrimp on the brush or the compressor. Get a >good quality brush that you are comfortable with, then get a good quality >compressor. It can be one like the Silent 1 that can be kept in the >modeling area, or a large commercial one that has to be kept in the garage. >Just get a good one. Keep the same thought for any of your main tools. >Buy quality first. They will last much longer, work better for you, and >end up costing less in the long run. John Thanks for the info. If I keep using the airbrush, looks like a real compressor is in order...it'll have to fit in the model room, since I don't have a garage! Mike ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:00:26 -0500 From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Spad XIII colors Message-ID: <199804011300.IAA03874@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 03:15 AM 4/1/98 -0500, mark wrote: >The Glencoe Spad XIII came to mind, >specifically de Torenne's all buff colored plane, with the Spa 48 rooster >emblem. My questions are: > >1.) What would be a good color match (in the ballpark is good enough) for >the overall buff color? A spray paint would be ideal... > >2.) How about the light gray underside? Mark When I did mine, I used Polly-S light yellow for the forward halfmof the fuselage and plain old CDL for the rest, including the bottom of the wings. The colors looks right on the finished product. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 14:05:52 -0800 From: Graham Nash To: wwi Subject: Re: ...plus some talk on Future Message-ID: <199804011306.AA10842@egate2.citicorp.com> mbittner@juno.com wrote: > > On Wed, 1 Apr 1998 03:23:49 -0500 "Fernando E. Lamas, M.D." > writes: > > > I know that "Future does not need to be thinned". However, maybe > >thinning it a bit may have avoided this problem. > > Actually, this is wrong. I have had a bottle of Future I use on projects > that's going on four years old. You *do* need to thin when the Future is > this old, and starts getting thicker than it is brand new. > > New Future you do not need to thin. Old Future you probably do. > > Matt Bittner > > _____________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] So you thin Future in the future, and you don't thin Future, when its not the future. (Sounds of those men in white coats again...) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 07:47:54 -0600 From: The Shannons To: wwi Subject: Re: Spad XIII colors Message-ID: <3522458A.FF52EB8B@ix.netcom.com> The Neil Robinson mixes for French Camouflage colors are posted in the WWI web site's information files. For the early Spad XIII's the colors were probably the same as the VII's -- Jaune Claire overall. This means an aluminized gray-yellow for the fabric and a similar, non-aluminized color for the metal parts. Landing gear struts and wood panels could be finished in either the aluminized or non-aluminized colors. The fabric areas tended to flatten in tone with service, the metal panels retained a certain amount of sheen (probably the result of the fabric flexture with use.) I don't remember Neil's exact formulas, but I have used Humbrols 4p #74 Linen +1p #56 Aluminum for the fabric mix and 2p #74 Linen + 1p #92 Iron Grey for the metal parts and been happy with the look versus the tonal values in the photos (I believe those are the numbers, I know they are the right names). If it is in Jaune Claire, the undersides would be the same, not light gray, AFAIK. Mary-Ann/Michael wrote: > At 03:15 AM 4/1/98 -0500, mark wrote: > >The Glencoe Spad XIII came to mind, > >specifically de Torenne's all buff colored plane, with the Spa 48 rooster > >emblem. My questions are: > > > >1.) What would be a good color match (in the ballpark is good enough) for > >the overall buff color? A spray paint would be ideal... > > > >2.) How about the light gray underside? > Mark > When I did mine, I used Polly-S light yellow for the forward halfmof > the fuselage and plain old CDL for the rest, including the bottom of the > wings. The colors looks right on the finished product. > Mike Muth -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 08:23:21 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Instrument Panels Message-ID: <35224DD9.590A@bellsouth.net> perrysm@juno.com wrote: > > Does anyone on the list have a slick trick for getting the size and shape > of an instrument pannel or bulkhead correct when the kit doesn't have one > and the available documentation doesn't show cross sections? > > Steven Perry > perrysm@juno.com > nb: Sierra Scale Spad A.4 (S.79 on Skis) 1:48 > nu: Pegasus Albatros W.4 (747) 1:72 > > _____________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Steven, I just found a tool that will help you get the width if not the shape. It's called a telescoping guage. It looks like a 'T' and the cross members collapse into the upright. These are spring loaded and are held in the retacted position with a tightening knob at the bottom of the handle. Here's how it works; Collapse the cross members and lock them iin place with the knob. Then place the guage through the cockpit hole and position it where you need the panel. Then loosen the knob, The cross members snap out to the side walls of the fuselage. Tighten the knob again to lock the guage and voila'. You know exactly how wide your panel has to be. You will still have to work with the shape, but knowing the width will make that easier. Happy modeling. Ernest ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:18:39 +0000 From: "Rob." To: wwi Subject: Re: Instrument Panels Message-ID: <199804011622.LAA01016@cliff.concentric.net> perrysm@juno.com wrote: > > Does anyone on the list have a slick trick for getting the size and shape > of an instrument pannel or bulkhead correct when the kit doesn't have one > and the available documentation doesn't show cross sections? 1. Use a profile gauge, available from the hardware store. 2. Press a lump of plasticine modeling clay into the fuselage half, slice it off flush, then remove carefully (it tends to distort) and use for a template. 3. Press a length of soft fuse wire into the fuselage and use for a template. 4. Rough trim a piece of balsa sheet to the shape of the bulkhead with the endgrain along the fuselage sides. Press the balsa into the the fuselage half, mashing the endgrain into the contours. Use as a template. Rob To e-mail me, replace the l with the numeral 1. Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:30:22 +0000 From: "Rob." To: wwi Subject: RE:...plus some talk on Future Message-ID: <199804011634.LAA28282@marconi.concentric.net> I have not had good luck with either airbrushing Future (the gumminess problem) or handbrushing (bristles in the finish and/or gumminess). So I do what local car modelers recommend: I wipe the stuff on with an old T-shirt. No brushmarks, no stray bristles, no thinning, no problems. The paint-drying issue might still be the problem if you experience cracking, clouding, or persistent soft spots. Enamels are usually at fault, I am told. Enamels may not be fully free of solvent for weeks after they are dry to the touch. The acrylic topcoat (future) cures relatively quickly and traps the enamel solvents underneath, causing the hard acrylic to crack. The acrylic also shrinks quite alot, exacerbating the problem. Diehard enamel users might want to make a drying oven to bake their models. FSM had plans for one that a friend of mine used with great success. It is also possible that the lengthy brushing out of the Future caused some of the top layers of acrylic to cure before the underlying layers, with much the same result. If you get drips, let them cure until just dry to the touch, trim them off with a sharp knife, buff them out, and recoat. So I say, use the the T-shirt, slop it on (watching for drips), and work fast. As the great philosopher and 8th-grade shop teacher Theodore Kratzke taught me re varnish, "You paintin' no picture of da Queen." >> Yes, it certainly was dry. I painted the top wing three weeks ago....went to a week long conference in San Francisco....came back and did all the rigging.... Bottom line: it was dry as a bone. I think I may have not had enough Future on the brush and did not properly "flood" the wing with the Future initially. After I started brushing, I noticed that the Future was starting to "gum up" and not brush smoothly. Brushmarks began to appear. I loaded up the brush with more Future which may have made the coating too thick and worsened the problem. After letting it dry overnight, it did not look as bad this morning. However, it was not as good as the great finish I got on the fuseage and the upper surface of the bottom wing. I know that "Future does not need to be thinned". However, maybe thinning it a bit may have avoided this problem. I also think that the Future applied with a Future-soaked Q-Tip turned out better than the Future applied with a brush. > >Um abraco >Pedro > Ata logo, Fernando Rob To e-mail me, replace the l with the numeral 1. Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:33:01 +0000 From: "Rob." To: wwi Subject: Re: Senility Strikes again Message-ID: <199804011637.LAA04969@cliff.concentric.net> Graham: I'd like to have it, if you haven't given it a home yet. Thanks. Rob Johnson 647 Pratt St. Longmont, CO 80501 USA >> Having been vistor No.1 at the Southern Expo here in the UK (proudly wearing my badge and giving one to Ray Rimell-he 'lurks' chaps, so be careful what you say :^)), I just discovered last night that I had picked up a duplicate of Scale Models December 1977, which has a fine article and detailed 3-view drawings of the Felixstowe F.2A. Who would like to relieve me of my embarrassment for the princely sum of a measely e-mail in my direction. ALternatively, I'd be happy to donate this to the list library unless a copy is already held there. OK then,on your marks, get set... GO! Rob To e-mail me, replace the l with the numeral 1. Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 12:57:37 -0500 From: Don RInker To: wwi Subject: Eduard Factory Destroyed!!! Message-ID: <35228011.7867@fast.net> Straight of the UPI News Service feed comes a breaking story that the entire Eduard model manufacturing facility has been detroyed. No one was in the building at the time, but all the products, machinery, masters, and molds were completely melted into one solid mass , owning to the intensity of the fire fuel by the styrene plastic. Eduards had recently rebuilt the facilty after last years disasteroud floods had crippled and nearly destroyed the plant. Eduards owner is apparently giving up and going to build a new plant that would manufacture farm implements. Several members of a tourist group are being held in connection with the fire. One is an unidentified Englishman who will only give his name as "Ray", who apparently went berserk. He was aided in the attack by a wild eyed Scot known in the terrorist circles as "Sandy the blade". Some international connection is suspected as several Amercians were also arrested. None will give their names, but all seemed to be wearing some sort of pin, had glassy stares, and kept trying to sniff glue. Some connection with an American "pusher" was noted. THey are trying to track down some obscure reference to Rosemont something. Furhter updates as they happen. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 12:10:56 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: April Squadron Sale Message-ID: <01BD5D67.3B2D96A0.panz-meador@vsti.com> here's a question for the group; squadron also lists the airfix foker dr.i as having been discontined. price is $3.00. is this a good kit? would it be worthwhile to pick up a couple, or is the more expensive revell kit superior and airfix is crap ("... damn those heavy rivets on the wings--and there's *3* of 'em!"...). please advise, TIA, phillip anz-meador -----Original Message----- From: Leonard Endy [SMTP:lfendy@firstsaga.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 9:24 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: April Squadron Sale =46ound a few items in Squadron's April sales flyer that may be of interest to the group. PD Models Decals (They are out of production I believe.) 1/48 Spad XIII Part 1 $11.98 1/72 Spad XIII Part 1 $8.98 Spad XIII Part 2 $8.98 =46okker D.VII (Includes "Seven Swabians") $9.98 Super Scale Int'l (All $1.99 each) 1/48 WWI Lozenge, 5 color, night. =46okker Dr.I Aces #2 =46okker D.VII #1 =46okker D.VII #2 They are also advertising the Shanghai/DML Fokker Dr.I and Spad XIII at $16.96 each. Later... Len ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 962 *********************