WWI Digest 949 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Decal Silvering by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley Barrett) 2) Re: Decal Silvering by Joey Valenciano 3) Discovered a new technique. by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 4) Re: new firm? by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 5) Exhibition Judging by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 6) Paging Dr. Lamas... by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 7) Italian markings by Ernest Thomas 8) Re: Exhibition Judging by Ernest Thomas 9) kit wanted by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 10) Re: Exhibition Judging by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 11) Re: Discovered a new technique. by "Tom Werner Hansen" 12) Re: Getting kids started (was Re: Exhibition Judges) by "Sandy Adam" 13) Re: Decal Silvering by "Sandy Adam" 14) Hannovers by Redwilde@bdsbbs.com (Redwilde) 15) Re: Decal silvering by Pedro e Francisca Soares 16) Pfalz D.XII Colors by "Leonard Endy" 17) Re: Pfalz D.XII Colors by Charles Hart 18) RE: Pfalz D.XII Colors by Shane Weier 19) Re: Discovered a new technique. by Charles Hart 20) TOKO e-mail address (?) by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 21) Re: Discovered a new technique. by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley Barrett) 22) Anyone out there? by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 23) Re: Discovered a new technique. by Charles Hart 24) Re: Discovered a new technique. by Bob Pearson 25) Re: Discovered a new technique. by "Lee Mensinger" 26) Re: Discovered a new technique. by Charles Hart 27) Re: Decal silvering by "Lee Mensinger" 28) Re: Anyone out there? by BStett3770 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 06:31:14 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley Barrett) To: wwi Subject: Re: Decal Silvering Message-ID: I've seen this happen with old decals where some of the >fibers of the decal paper lifted off with the decal. If the decal is thick, >you could try scraping some of the stuff off but that's risky and you lose >your decal glue. What I've done before when I was an armour modeler (can't >tell if this solution is a good one for 1/72 a/c) was to dip the whole >decal (already freed from the paper) into clear flat (I used Pactra then), >and apply this mess onto the kit surface. The decal looked painted on when >it dried. > Joey, Thanks for the tip. What I may do next time is dip the decal in Future (instead of clear flat). I think Sandy, or someone else on the list, suggested setting decals with Future a few months ago. Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:38:06 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Decal Silvering Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980323183806.0077157c@philonline.com.ph> >Thanks for the tip. What I may do next time is dip the decal in Future >(instead of clear flat). I think Sandy, or someone else on the list, >suggested setting decals with Future a few months ago. Needless to say, check with a spare decal from the same sheet first. I've tried the above technique on a DML decal using Humbrol clear flat. The decal film disintegrated as I handled it. Alternatively, you could slop on some of the stuff on the surface to be decaled and lay the decal on top of that, slowly easing excess clear flat out by tamping down on the decal. This is how I got the Humbrol clear flat and DML decal to work together. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 06:42:40 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: <19980323.064241.8950.0.perrysm@juno.com> I stumbled onto a new technique that has a lot of uses. The trick allows you to make flexible pipes of any diameter and length, ready to install in seconds. I'm working on a Sierra Scale Spad A.4. The kit has a nice metal engine which consists of the crankcase and cyls only. As it is a Le Rhone 110 hp, the copper looking intake pipes that are curved have to be either imagined or builder supplied. Take a piece of parafilm and stretch it. When it has set a minute, smooth it down on a flat surface you can cut on with a #11. Trim it to a rectangular shape and peel away the excess leaving the rectangle pressed flat on the surface. Now take a thumb or finger and rub across the surface and onto the film, rolling it up tightly. Roll to the desired diameter and trim. You have an even diameter "rod" of parafilm that can be bent, cut, glued and painted. It can simulate pipes, rods, tubes, wires, whatever. By rolling it up at an angle you can create a tapered pipe like the ones on the Le Rhone. The width of the rectangle determines the length of the "pipe", the length of the rectangle determines the thickness. The neat part is that you can decide you need a "pipe" , roll one up , decide it's not quite right, roll another, fit it, trim it, CA it in place and be waiting for the paint to dry in 2 minutes time. Parafilm can be had at outrageous prices from Testors and distributed through hobby shops. It is used in laboratory work and the tail end of a roll can often be had for the asking if you know someone who works in a lab. Well there it is FWIW. Let me know if it works for you. Steven Perry perrysm@juno.com nb: Sierra Scale Spad A.4 (S.79 on skis)1:48 nu: Pegasus Albatros W.4 (#747) 1:72 (yeah!) No war is "Great" but we all know which one had the Great Airplanes! _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:16:18 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Re: new firm? Message-ID: <19980323.072316.8950.1.perrysm@juno.com> >If you're not planning on using the Ottoman markings, let me know what >they're worth to you. > >Cheers, > >Riordan > Riordan: I was considering using the Turkish markings, however I really wanted to do a replica of Oswald B's plane (I'm not attempting the spelling). If you can point me in the right direction to find out the markings for his ship, I'll be happy to drop the Ottoman markings in the mail to you. BTW include a snail address as HD crashed taking much info with it. sp _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:15:35 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Exhibition Judging Message-ID: <19980323.081535.5086.0.perrysm@juno.com> I'm not a competitive person when it comes to models and have never entered a contest. Were I to judge a contest, I would have only two criteria. These being the modeler's answer to what I consider the two most important questions in modeling. 1. Did you have fun building it? 2. Do you enjoy looking at it now that it's done? A "Yes" to both questions puts you in a tie for first place. As I will never enter a contest, I will never qualify to be a judge and so all are safe from my non-conventional views on the subject. I just thought I'd throw them out in contrast to those who so obviously enjoy contests along with a sincere "Good Luck!" to all at their next contest. Enjoy this wonderful hobby any way you can. regards to all Steven Perry perrysm@juno.com nb: Sierra Scale Spad A.4 (S.79 on skis)1:48 nu: Pegasus Albatros W.4 (#747) 1:72 (yeah!) No war is "Great" but we all know which one had the Great Airplanes! _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:02:31 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Paging Dr. Lamas... Message-ID: <01BD564B.2DFC7E60.panz-meador@vsti.com> Fernando: don't know if you can read this, or if you've received the original (below) i sent you off-line, but hope you can. evidently the internet thingee pooped out after 54 tries, and only got the message back to me yesterday. at any rate, my address is: dr. phillip anz-meador viking science & technology, inc. 16821 buccaneer lane, ste. 216 houston, tx 77058 if you'll send me your address, i'll pop the lozenge decals in the mail to you. total price for both sheets is $7.00. phillip -----Original Message----- From: postmaster@wotan.vsti.com [SMTP:postmaster@wotan.vsti.com] Sent: Sunday, March 22, 1998 1:16 AM To: panz-meador@vsti.com Subject: Delivery failure Your message has encountered delivery problems to the following recipients: lamas@olympus.net Unable to deliver to destination domain Failed to deliver to domain olympus.net after 54 tries. <> phillip -----Original Message----- From: Fernando E. Lamas, M.D. [SMTP:lamas@olympus.net] Sent: Monday, March 16, 1998 7:56 PM To: panz-meador@vsti.com Subject: Phillip: Microscale lozenge decals Importance: High At 01:20 PM 3/16/98 -0500, you wrote: > >i've got one sheet each of the microscale (now superscale i guess) 4 color >lozenge, microscale # 043A and 043B. i believe the former is the upper >lozenge while B is lower. i'm opting to use americal's lozenge, so if >anyone is interested in obtaining the microscale sheets, let me know. > price for a list member is $3.00 each, plus $1.00 P&H. > >phillip > Hello Phillip, As I said in my other post, I would like to get some lozenge practice before risking the ruin of more expensive decals such as Americal. Send me your mailing address and I will mail you a check for the two lozenge sheets. Fernando Lamas ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:21:07 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: multiple recipients of list Subject: Italian markings Message-ID: <35169A03.4F90@bellsouth.net> Hello Everyone, Need some help here. I just started clean-up on the Smer SVA. I'm looking at a photo, on page six in the datafile, of an SAV with a big white banner w/cross(St. George's type?) on the side of the fuselage. Can anyone tell me what color this cross should be? No details are given in the datafile. Also, is there a pe sheet somewhere that I should know about before I start scratch-building all this detail? mgia for any help. Ernest ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:22:42 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Exhibition Judging Message-ID: <35169A62.1F95@bellsouth.net> Steven M Perry wrote: > > I'm not a competitive person when it comes to models and have never > entered a contest. Were I to judge a contest, I would have only two > criteria. These being the modeler's answer to what I consider the two > most important questions in modeling. > 1. Did you have fun building it? > 2. Do you enjoy looking at it now that it's done? > A "Yes" to both questions puts you in a tie for first place. > > As I will never enter a contest, I will never qualify to be a judge and > so all are safe from my non-conventional views on the subject. I just > thought I'd throw them out in contrast to those who so obviously enjoy > contests along with a sincere "Good Luck!" to all at their next contest. > Enjoy this wonderful hobby any way you can. > > regards to all > Steven Perry > perrysm@juno.com > nb: Sierra Scale Spad A.4 (S.79 on skis)1:48 > nu: Pegasus Albatros W.4 (#747) 1:72 (yeah!) > No war is "Great" but we all know which one had the Great Airplanes! > > _____________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] You could bring a ruler and measure smiles. Biggest wins. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:38:26 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: kit wanted Message-ID: <01BD5650.32A21F60.panz-meador@vsti.com> hi, list. i'm looking for the blue rider kit no. BR600, the siemens r.1 in 1:144 scale. any reasonable price entertained. thanks, phillip ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 13:07:45 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Re: Exhibition Judging Message-ID: <19980323.130825.238.0.perrysm@juno.com> >You could bring a ruler and measure smiles. Biggest wins. > I like your thinking sp _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:04:10 +0100 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: <199803231941.UAA25490@d1o211.telia.com> Steven Sorry to be an ignorant foreigner, but what is parafilm? The technique sounds like something I'd like to try. I seem to be spending more time on exploring techniques than building odels these days. Tom ---------- > From: Steven M Perry > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Discovered a new technique. > Date: 23. mars 1998 12:43 > > I stumbled onto a new technique that has a lot of uses. The trick allows > you to make flexible pipes of any diameter and length, ready to install > in seconds. > > I'm working on a Sierra Scale Spad A.4. The kit has a nice metal engine > which consists of the crankcase and cyls only. As it is a Le Rhone 110 > hp, the copper looking intake pipes that are curved have to be either > imagined or builder supplied. > > Take a piece of parafilm and stretch it. Rest snipped away. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 21:21:34 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Getting kids started (was Re: Exhibition Judges) Message-ID: <199803232139.VAA05366@beryl.sol.co.uk> > Do you know if the Joan of Arc figure will be re-released as well? > I've been looking for that one. Maybe they'll re-do that whole series. > I already have Richard I. But Henry VIII would be neat. I think there > was a pretty decent roman as well. > Ernest I remember these figures coming out one by one - the Coldstream Guardsman, Lifeguard Trumpeter and Yeoman of the Guard were first then 'Enery the 'Eighth, Jeanne D'Arc, Black Prince followed after a while by Julius Caesar (A pretty decent Roman?), Oliver Cromwell, Anne Boleyn, Charles 1, Richard the LionHeart: can't remember any more offhand but I've probably missed a few - I'm sure a few of the dealers here keep them. If you want me to try to find any for you let me know. > > Sorry for the off-topic guys. But Pedro started it. Don't worry - it makes a change from interminable Albatri Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 21:42:14 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Decal Silvering Message-ID: <199803232139.VAA05373@beryl.sol.co.uk> > Thanks for the tip. What I may do next time is dip the decal in Future > (instead of clear flat). I think Sandy, or someone else on the list, > suggested setting decals with Future a few months ago. > Kevin Barrett. Wasn't me Kevin - I haven't tried Future yet. Last ditch solution for silvering is good small brush and steady hand to touch out imperfections. Depends where it happens, but remember many insignia were painted by hand anyway. You can see brush marks / streaks on many close up pictures - check your source photos but on some subjects touching up by brush may improve realism! (No, I don't give a fig about competitions and won't have to explain to some cross-eyed judge why his limited knowledge disqualifies his opinion on the subject! I'm a much harsher judge of my own models than Phantom Phred will ever be.) Sandy ------------------------------ Date: 23 Mar 1998 17:55:44 EDT From: Redwilde@bdsbbs.com (Redwilde) To: wwi Subject: Hannovers Message-ID: <89069377831021@bdsbbs.com> Pete wrote: >The Hannover that you've just done..... could you tell me what colours/paints you used to paint the lozenge for the fuselage and the Prussian blue wash It'll be a few months before I get a chance to paint any of the Hannovers. I just completed building the original master figure by carving it out of styrene plastic. From herre I'll send it down to a colleague in Rhode Island who will make a mold of the figure and hand pour a bunch of castings out of a lead alloy (The figure comes in three pieces: the wings, struts & undercarriage are one piece; then the fuselage, cabane struts, and lower tailplane are a second piece that slides between them; and finally the rudder and upper tailplane is a third piece.) When Leo sends me back teh hand poured versions, I trim them down and clean them up and choose the best dozen or so (depending on how many of a given model I can fit into a spin casting mold), and then send them back down to have a spin casting mold made up for teh final production run. These are also done with the lead alloy, but because of the spin casting technology can be cranked out by the hundreds and are much better quality castings than the hand poured ones. The Hannover is the first of a batch of up to six new planes I hope to have done in time for the big summer gaming conventions. I'll do the final production casting of however many planes I've finished in time by June. So... that means I'll probably be getting the first hand poured batch of these in late April/early May. I may take one or two of them to paint up then, but usually I wait for the final production figures (because it takes less work to clean those up for painting) and paint up a half dozen of them all at once. In the meanwhile, I'll ponder the color problem and maybe even do some test swatches if I'm ambitious. For the basic lozenge colors, I'll get something close to what Bob Pearson used in his illustrations for the recent Over The Front. Then for the wash, I'll first try an enamal Prussian Blue straight out of the bottle, but unstirred. If that isn't satisfactory I'll try using water colors, and PB is one you can get straight out of a tube without having to mix colors. Lead figures always need a coat of varnish to protect the paint job. And for the figures I use in games I give them two or three coats. So that will hold down the water color fine too. Brian ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 22:52:11 +0100 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: "'ww1 modeling list'" Subject: Re: Decal silvering Message-ID: <01BD56B0.8205E860@fei1-p1.telepac.pt> Kevin wrote: To The List: Just finished all the lozenge and rib taping on my LVG C.VI - three = weeks of off and on work - looks great (to me) - holy cow! Now, I've just applied national insignia and ID numbers to the fuselage = and I get #@$%&! decal silvering. I can't believe it! They are Pegasus kit decals layed on a smooth Future surface, softened with the new = Aeromaster decal setting solution. How do I avoid silvering on the next project - = it's driving me crazy? Kevin Barrett. Hi Kevin I've had good results with the following technique: Assuming you're working with a gloss model surface, 1 - while still on the backing paper, puncture the decal with the = tiniest possible holes (a straight pin will do) 2 - while the decal is in the water, lay a small puddle of Future on the = surface of the model, in the place the decal will go into. 3 - lay the decal in place and press it down with a soft brush (that's = where the holes come in handy, since they'll let the excess future = escape through them). 4 - lay another drop or two of future on the newly applied decal. 5 - leave to dry. (you can accelerate things if you put the decaled = surface close to a 100 W bulb (while it's on, of course ;-), but be = careful with the heat. HTH Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 00:14:31 GMT From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi Subject: Pfalz D.XII Colors Message-ID: <3517f924.1548310@legend.firstsaga.com> Good Evening All, According to the datafile on this aircraft they all had lozenge covered wings and I could find no photographs to prove otherwise. Can anyone provide any insight to the overall silber-grau scheme as portrayed on the box of the Toko kit ? TIA Len ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:33:58 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Subject: Re: Pfalz D.XII Colors Message-ID: >Good Evening All, > >According to the datafile on this aircraft they all had lozenge >covered wings and I could find no photographs to prove otherwise. > >Can anyone provide any insight to the overall silber-grau scheme as >portrayed on the box of the Toko kit ? > >TIA > >Len Perhaps it is a healthy dose of artistic licence. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:36:14 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: RE: Pfalz D.XII Colors Message-ID: <199803240048.KAA17749@mimmon.mim.com.au> Len, >According to the datafile on this aircraft they all had lozenge >covered wings and I could find no photographs to prove otherwise. FWIW 2600/18 has 5 colour upper loz on the top and 5 colour lower loz on the bottom of the wings, not 4 colour indeterminate as provided in the kit. It also has the serial number on *both* sides ;-) I'm looking at a photo of that aircrafts cockpit as I write BTW. It's painted a light - mid grey, pretty much overall. >Can anyone provide any insight to the overall silber-grau scheme as >portrayed on the box of the Toko kit ? Not I, but I'm just as interested as you. maybe I should buy a Blue Max D.XII and paint it like that Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:54:43 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: Steven Perry writes: >Parafilm can be had at outrageous prices from Testors and distributed >through hobby shops. It is used in laboratory work and the tail end of a >roll can often be had for the asking if you know someone who works in a >lab. > Well, what does Testors charge for how much Parafilm? I use this stuff at work on a daily basis and have several sources to obtain it. What's the usual quantity anyone buys ? We get ours in rolls 4 inches wide and 125 feet long for about US$ 20.00. How many models can you mask with that ? Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:54:47 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: TOKO e-mail address (?) Message-ID: <01BD568D.2788DBE0.panz-meador@vsti.com> saw this on rec.models.scale earlier today: The company "TOKO" Ukraine searches for the Distributors!!! zaoits@sovam.com Andrey Linkin Kiev, "TOKO" phillip ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 21:13:37 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley Barrett) To: wwi Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: Steven, What is Parafilm? Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:18:47 -0800 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Anyone out there? Message-ID: <351709F7.B96@ricochet.net> Has there been a lull in list volume (none as of 5:20 March 23) or have I been unsubscribed again? Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:28:20 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: >Steven, > >What is Parafilm? > >Kevin Barrett. Parafilm is just that, a thin film made of paraffin (wax). Labs use it to seal open topped containers or very tightly seal screw top containers. It is nicely stretchable and can conform to complex shapes. It has the ability to cling to smooth surfaces like glass and plastic, hence its appeal for modelers. I use it in my lab, I have yet to make use of it for modeling. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:40:10 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: <01401092355045@KAIEN.COM> So would this be similiar to the silicon tape used to seal (among other things) the valves between my compressor and airbrush? Regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: Charles Hart > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. > Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 20:27:01 -0500 > > >Steven, > > > >What is Parafilm? > > > >Kevin Barrett. > > Parafilm is just that, a thin film made of paraffin (wax). Labs use it to > seal open topped containers or very tightly seal screw top containers. It > is nicely stretchable and can conform to complex shapes. It has the > ability to cling to smooth surfaces like glass and plastic, hence its > appeal for modelers. I use it in my lab, I have yet to make use of it for > modeling. > > Charles > > hartc@spot.colorado.edu > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:53:59 -0600 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi, hartc@spot.colorado.edu, "Lee Mensinger" Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: <35171237.949BBD5D@wireweb.net> Charles Hart wrote: > Steven Perry writes: > > >Parafilm can be had at outrageous prices from Testors and distributed > > >through hobby shops. It is used in laboratory work and the tail end > of a > >roll can often be had for the asking if you know someone who works in > a > >lab. > > > > Well, what does Testors charge for how much Parafilm? I use this > > stuff at work on a daily basis and have several sources to obtain it. > What's the usual quantity anyone buys ? We get ours in rolls 4 inches > wide > and 125 feet long for about US$ 20.00. How many models can you mask > with > that ? > > Charles > > hartc@spot.colorado.edu Last roll I bought at a hobby shop wasover two years ago and it was a roll 2 inches wide with a 1 1/8 inch wide core. The parafilm 3/8 inch thick on both sides of the core. No indication as to the length in feet or anything else. It was called PARAFILM M or Parafilm Laboratory film. The only clue toward it's ancestry is a note product of American National Can Company.What I had was sold for $7.95 and it was indicated to be a Testors Corp product. It is a great masking material. Thought every one knew about it. Sure would like to have a cheaper source. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:06:49 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. Message-ID: Sounds like you are using white teflon tape. Its thin, stretchy stuff that makes a good seal for gas fittings and plumbing, but it is harder to cut into careful shapes than Parafilm. I would suspect that teflon tape that was very wide would be very costly. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu >So would this be similiar to the silicon tape used to seal (among other >things) the valves between my compressor and airbrush? > >Regards, > Bob Pearson > >---------- >> From: Charles Hart >> To: Multiple recipients of list >> Subject: Re: Discovered a new technique. >> Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 20:27:01 -0500 >> >> >Steven, >> > >> >What is Parafilm? >> > >> >Kevin Barrett. >> >> Parafilm is just that, a thin film made of paraffin (wax). Labs use it to >> seal open topped containers or very tightly seal screw top containers. It >> is nicely stretchable and can conform to complex shapes. It has the >> ability to cling to smooth surfaces like glass and plastic, hence its >> appeal for modelers. I use it in my lab, I have yet to make use of it for >> modeling. >> >> Charles >> >> hartc@spot.colorado.edu >> >> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 20:02:50 -0600 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi, "Lee Mensinger" Subject: Re: Decal silvering Message-ID: <3517144A.CC46365F@wireweb.net> Pedro e Francisca Soares wrote: > Kevin wrote: > > To The List: > > Just finished all the lozenge and rib taping on my LVG C.VI - three = > weeks > of off and on work - looks great (to me) - holy cow! > > Now, I've just applied national insignia and ID numbers to the > fuselage = > and > I get #@$%&! decal silvering. I can't believe it! They are Pegasus kit > > decals layed on a smooth Future surface, softened with the new = > Aeromaster > decal setting solution. How do I avoid silvering on the next project - > = > it's > driving me crazy? > > Kevin Barrett. > > Hi Kevin > > I've had good results with the following technique: > > Assuming you're working with a gloss model surface, > > 1 - while still on the backing paper, puncture the decal with the = > tiniest possible holes (a straight pin will do) > > 2 - while the decal is in the water, lay a small puddle of Future on > the = > surface of the model, in the place the decal will go into. > > 3 - lay the decal in place and press it down with a soft brush (that's > = > where the holes come in handy, since they'll let the excess future = > escape through them). > > 4 - lay another drop or two of future on the newly applied decal. > > 5 - leave to dry. (you can accelerate things if you put the decaled = > surface close to a 100 W bulb (while it's on, of course ;-), but be = > careful with the heat. > > HTH > > Um abraco > > Pedro Glad I didn't have to type this out. I was getting ready to pass this method along. It is exactly the way we show newcomers tyo do it at the San Antonio Alamo Squadron meetings. That little decal will snuggle down tighter than most would believe possible. Looks painted on.. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 21:07:53 EST From: BStett3770 To: wwi Subject: Re: Anyone out there? Message-ID: <47a3dab1.3517157b@aol.com> Hi Riordan Thinks it's been a lull. Got about 15 messages today. Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 949 *********************