WWI Digest 940

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Bomb source
	by James Gibbons <jgibbons@vppsa.com>
  2) Re: Bomb source
	by aew (Allan Wright)
  3) Emperor of scales!?
	by CubsWinOne <CubsWinOne@aol.com>
  4) Home brew PE
	by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry)
  5) Re: Home brew PE
	by "Paul Schwartzkopf" <pschwartzkopf@transcrypt.com>
  6) ACE Publications - Aces of WWI
	by John Berlien <j-berlien@ti.com>
  7) Re: Bomb source
	by rojo1@concentric.net
  8) Re: ACE Publications - Aces of WWI
	by Carlos Valdes <carlos.valdes@conted.gatech.edu>
  9) Re: Bomb source
	by aew (Allan Wright)
 10) Re: Home brew PE
	by rojo1@concentric.net
 11) Re: Making decals (been there, done that)
	by rojo1@concentric.net
 12) Re: Aircraft of the Fighting Powers II
	by bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael)
 13) Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
	by Matthew Zivich <mzivich@tardis.svsu.edu>
 14) Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
	by Charles Hart <hartc@spot.colorado.edu>
 15) Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
	by KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
 16) Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
	by Matthew Zivich <mzivich@tardis.svsu.edu>
 17) Re: Making decals (been there, done that)
	by Don RInker <drinker@fast.net>
 18) Re: Testors Nie 17 Color
	by fedders <pfed@saladin.wustl.edu>
 19) Re: Making decals (been there, done that)
	by michel.lefort@ping.be (Michel LEFORT)
 20) Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
	by Matthew Zivich <mzivich@tardis.svsu.edu>
 21) RE: Testors Nie 17 Color
	by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" <panz-meador@vsti.com>
 22) Felixstowe F3 4258
	by Pedro Nuno Soares <pnsoares@mail.telepac.pt>
 23) Coming WWI kits
	by infosilver@czechia.com
 24) RE: Munsell Color Program 
	by infosilver@czechia.com
 25) Re: New Eduards (and tokos) 
	by infosilver@czechia.com
 26) Dakoplast 1/72 Sikorsky S-XVI
	by infosilver@czechia.com
 27) Re: Testors Nie 17 Color
	by KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
 28) Re: Testors Nie 17 Color
	by KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
 29) lozenge tones; wasRe: Munsell Color Program
	by KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
 30) Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
	by KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
 31) Re: Coming WWI kits
	by Carlos Valdes <carlos.valdes@conted.gatech.edu>

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 08:52:18 -0500
From: James Gibbons <jgibbons@vppsa.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi>
Subject: Re: Bomb source
Message-ID: <01BD524B.2A33BAE0.jgibbons@vppsa.com>

Tom,

With regard to capturing the detail on the bomb's fins:  pressure would 
probably help.  A friend of mine who does a lot of casting (he owns a 
company that produces 1/200 aircraft in resin) has told me in the past that 
letting the resin cure under pressure goes a long way towards filling small 
details.

Hope this helps but it is probably only worth it if you are making a fair 
number of bombs or intend to cast other parts.  For short runs it may just 
be worth it to pour and pray and accept whatever percentage of rejects you 
get (that's what I've done in the past).

James Gibbons

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:02:41 -0500 (EST)
From: aew (Allan Wright)
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Bomb source
Message-ID: <199803181402.JAA07141@pease1.sr.unh.edu>

> With regard to capturing the detail on the bomb's fins:  pressure would 
> probably help.  A friend of mine who does a lot of casting (he owns a 
> company that produces 1/200 aircraft in resin) has told me in the past that 
> letting the resin cure under pressure goes a long way towards filling small 
> details.
> 
> Hope this helps but it is probably only worth it if you are making a fair 
> number of bombs or intend to cast other parts.  For short runs it may just 
> be worth it to pour and pray and accept whatever percentage of rejects you 
> get (that's what I've done in the past).

Sorry if I'm just getting in of this thread, but for finer details I've had 
good luck gravity casting in lead. You need to use Dow Corning 3120 RTV, as
it's the only rubber that can withstand the heat, but other than that it's
not much different than resin casting. The pot to melt the lead/tin alloy
can be bought at the loval gun store (for making bullets) for about $40.

-Allan

===============================================================================
Allan Wright Jr.           | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders!
University of New Hampshire+---------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center  | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu 
Internet: aew@unh.edu      | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu
===============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:12:59 EST
From: CubsWinOne <CubsWinOne@aol.com>
To: wwi
Subject: Emperor of scales!?
Message-ID: <4983cf17.350fd66d@aol.com>

For the truly blind <grin>, I saw this or rec.models.scale... 

Joe
CubsWinOne@aol.com

----------

I just got my latest Model Expo catalog in the mail 
and on the inside front page is a 2 page spread 
advertising their latest entry into the WW1 aviation 
world.

A 1:16 scale model of the Albatros D.Va.  It looks 
nice enough.  Has anyone got any further info on 
this Kit?  Quality of construction, fit.... if so how 
about a word or two on your impressions.

It sounds like this is their 1st kit in a new series of 
WW1 aircraft.  Any word on what other planes are 
planned in this series.  I checked out their Web site 
and found no additional information.

Thanks for any other info.
Anthony
SuperCobra <tsunamix@Worldnet.att.net>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:28:32 -0500
From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry)
To: wwi
Subject: Home brew PE
Message-ID: <19980318.092832.10926.1.perrysm@juno.com>

I swear I saw an add in FSM recently for a do it yourself photo etch kit
of some sort. I went through two recent issues but couldn't find it
again.

I haven't done any photoetching but I'd like to try it. Does anyone on
the list know where I can get PE directions & supplies?

Steven Perry
perrysm@juno.com

No war is "Great" but we all know which one had the Great Airplanes!

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:03:18 +0000
From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" <pschwartzkopf@transcrypt.com>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Home brew PE
Message-ID: <199803181504.JAA09456@tscrypt1.transcrypt.com>

> I haven't done any photoetching but I'd like to try it. Does anyone on
> the list know where I can get PE directions & supplies?
> Steven Perry

I have done some PE work on electronic circuit boards in the past, 
and am familiar with the basic process involved.  To do a really good 
job requires what I consider to be a substantial investment.  This 
includes silk-screen equipment, photo-sensitizers and developers, 
exposure lights, etching tank and heater, brass, etc., etc.  It can 
get to be quite a process if you are serious about it.

The *basic* process involves sensitizing a piece of thin brass with a 
chemical that is light sensitive.  A pattern (I am most familiar with 
negative patterns) is made and then set on the brass, and exposed to a bright 
light source.  When the brass is placed in a developer solution, the 
area that has been exposed remains on it, while the un-exposed 
chemical is removed.

When placed in an etchant tank, the chemical eats away the brass 
which is not protected by the developer process, thereby revealing 
the PE parts.  The brass is then placed in a neutralizer solution to 
remove the etchant.

Most supplies can be purchased at good electronic supply companies, 
but the brass may need to be from a hobby shop or somewhere else.  Be 
advised that the chemicals are "hazardous", and that the EPA is 
cracking down on their use--meaning expensive.  IMHO, I would stay 
away from do-it-yourself PE unless it is something you absolutely have 
to have, and have enough money to do it right.


Paul A. Schwartzkopf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:31:20 -0800
From: John Berlien <j-berlien@ti.com>
To: wwi
Subject: ACE Publications - Aces of WWI
Message-ID: <BMSMTP89024200564a0186964@dsbmail.itg.ti.com>

Hi guys.  When I was browsing the Squadron Shop I stumbed on a book by ACE 
Publications, called something like "Aces of WWI" and it had quite a few color 
profiles and nice photos of the aces planes.  But the book was in a foreign 
language, maybe Czech or something like that (I'm quite ignorant of other 
languages - it wasn't an oriental language).  I was just curious if anyone has 
it or can comment on the accuracy of the profiles.  It seemed to have a lot of 
photos that I hadn't seen.  I already had an armload of stuff and it wasn't on 
sale, so I cheapened out and didn't get it.  I was around $15, I think.

Best regards,

Jack

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:25:35 +0000
From: rojo1@concentric.net
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Bomb source
Message-ID: <199803181630.LAA08626@cliff.concentric.net>

> I've had  good luck gravity casting in lead. ... The pot to melt the lead/tin alloy
> can be bought at the loval gun store (for making bullets) for about $40.

Luck being, perhaps, the operative word. Lead is a toxic substance 
even in ridiculously small quantities. As I understand it, 
casting it is a great way to get it into the human system (vapors)  
while contaminating a whole house. It is best avoided when 
possible. Lead-free casting metals are available if you have to have 
metal. As for fins, why not fabricate them from sheet plastic or shim 
brass? The rounded bomb body is the hard thing to get right, so if 
you have that, why bother trying to cast fins?
Rob
<rojo1@concentric.net>
Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 14:15:00 -0500
From: Carlos Valdes <carlos.valdes@conted.gatech.edu>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: ACE Publications - Aces of WWI
Message-ID: <350ECBB4.49E2@conted.gatech.edu>

Jack,
	I have this book. I wouldn't call it an indispensable source, but the
profiles seem to be generally pretty accurate (though I've detected a
couple of errors), the photos show some faces hard to find in other
sources, and the numerical information towards the end can be
interpreted even if one does not know Polish. I'm glad I have my copy.
						Carlos

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 11:43:30 -0500 (EST)
From: aew (Allan Wright)
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Bomb source
Message-ID: <199803181643.LAA07871@pease1.sr.unh.edu>

> Luck being, perhaps, the operative word. Lead is a toxic substance 
> even in ridiculously small quantities. As I understand it, 
> casting it is a great way to get it into the human system (vapors)  
> while contaminating a whole house. It is best avoided when 
> possible. Lead-free casting metals are available if you have to have 
> metal. As for fins, why not fabricate them from sheet plastic or shim 
> brass? The rounded bomb body is the hard thing to get right, so if 
> you have that, why bother trying to cast fins?

Rob, while you are correct in facts, your alarm is quite overdone. Yes lead
vapors are harmful, but casting in a well ventalated area (garage) reduces 
the exposure of the hobbyist to nill and is relatively safe. You're more
likely to burn yourself than any problems with lead exposure. And yes, you
can buy lead-free alloys if you're really worried about it.

Most of us get more exposure handling aeroclub parts than you would from 
casting. I also do miniature wargaming, so I handle a LOT of lead. The key
is to be sure to wash after handling figures, casting, etc.

As for fabricating the fins, good point. If you need less than a dozen bombs
then you'll be better off scratch building them than making a mold and casting
them. On the other hand, I've made my own molds for several more common parts,
and the pay off for them is well worth it. Just be sure that you make your
own originals! It's a no-no to rip-off aeroclub's stuff. 

-Al

===============================================================================
Allan Wright Jr.           | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders!
University of New Hampshire+---------------------------------------------------
Research Computing Center  | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu 
Internet: aew@unh.edu      | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu
===============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 09:58:15 +0000
From: rojo1@concentric.net
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Home brew PE
Message-ID: <199803181702.MAA28215@marconi.concentric.net>

A friend of mine is the proprietor of On the Mark models, premier 
maker of photoetch for armor models. He farms all his production work 
out because of the cost and quality issues. This means that he has to 
make a lot of each set to make it practical. 

If you are determined, though, FineScale ran an article some time 
back on home photoetch. You could also take a look at the excellent 
and intimidating Schiffer book, Scratchbuilt, for this and all sorts 
of other exotic techniques.
Rob
<rojo1@concentric.net>
Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 10:12:37 +0000
From: rojo1@concentric.net
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Making decals (been there, done that)
Message-ID: <199803181717.MAA21778@cliff.concentric.net>

>Hopefully it will work.

Bet you it won't. I tried every combination of locally available  
decal paper, clear coat, and white paint that I could imagine with an 
inkjet (and burned up a surprising amount of money). The ink never 
dries if it is color. It almost never dries if it is black. The black 
is barely usable if you zap it with a coat of clear lacquer after it 
is more or less dry to the touch. But the black fades and blurs--it 
turns out to be lacquer-soluble too.

I haven't given up altogether, but I think xeroxing black line art 
onto decal paper and hand painting the color is a better way to go. 
Using a color copier is tempting, but I am told it is dangerous for 
the machine due to the much higher fusing temperatures and 
more complex feed paths. The color would also be hard to get right 
without the cooperation of a knowledgeable, sympathetic, and patient 
operator (plus lots of money for dud copies).

Wax-transfer and dye-sublimation printers can do the job, but they 
cost the moon (5 figures and up--though one maker is marketing such a 
machine to the home hobbyist on the web).

I have not given up altogether yet, but I think home-printed decals 
are going to require some technological breakthroughs. One thing I 
have thought about is the 1930s method of printing on fine paper and 
gluing the markings down or doing a son-of-Renwal project with paper 
or fabric covering. Canon makes a special fabric for printing. 

One final idea. Many printer makers make T-shirt transfer sheets for 
inkjets. Has anyone tried ironing one of these onto decal paper?  If 
so (or if anyone tries it), let me know the results.






Rob
<rojo1@concentric.net>
Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 12:48:53 -0500
From: bucky@postoffice.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael)
To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list <wwi>
Subject: Re: Aircraft of the Fighting Powers II
Message-ID: <199803181748.MAA08109@pease1.sr.unh.edu>

At 08:32 AM 3/18/98 -0500, Graham Nash wrote:
>
>The book contains at least one photo of the following a/c plus 72nd
>plans as indicated below.

        Just an aside...when do you and Matt and the other guys on this list
with the huge databases get the time to input this stuff!!! I am definately
not complaining, just sorta stunned by the massive amount of data you guys
collect and graciously share.
Mike Muth
nb: Roland C II in 1/72 Wildcat just started in 1/48 (Finally the Butch
o"hare project)
nl: Nothing
nu: SE5a for Maxwell project


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 13:00:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Matthew Zivich <mzivich@tardis.svsu.edu>
To: wwi
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <wwi>
Subject: Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.980318125531.17758A-100000@tardis.svsu.edu>

Does anyone know if the Glencoe Spad is a descendent of the orginal 
Aurora Spad like their Pfalz?  The old Aurora didn't seem to be a bad 
model at all, especially compared to the Smer Sp-7.

Matt Z.

On Tue, 17 Mar 1998, BStett3770 wrote:

> Hi Jack
> 
> Not yet, Glencoe tell's me late spring.
> Yes it should have Rickenbacker in it.
> 
> I'll post to the list as soon as I get a release date.
> 
> Keep Modeling
> Barry
> Rosemont Hobby
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 11:13:28 -0700
From: Charles Hart <hartc@spot.colorado.edu>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
Message-ID: <l03102800b135be955783@[128.138.153.98]>

Yes, it is the old Aurora kit.  FWIW the Smer 1/40 SPAD VII was originally
released by Heller back in the 70's.

While surfing the Aviation USK site last night I noticed that there are a
few 1/48 Czech resins available, including a SPAD VII.  Can I assume that
this was the master for the Blue Max kit ??

Wondering.

Charles

hartc@spot.colorado.edu



>Does anyone know if the Glencoe Spad is a descendent of the orginal
>Aurora Spad like their Pfalz?  The old Aurora didn't seem to be a bad
>model at all, especially compared to the Smer Sp-7.
>
>Matt Z.
>
>On Tue, 17 Mar 1998, BStett3770 wrote:
>
>> Hi Jack
>>
>> Not yet, Glencoe tell's me late spring.
>> Yes it should have Rickenbacker in it.
>>
>> I'll post to the list as soon as I get a release date.
>>
>> Keep Modeling
>> Barry
>> Rosemont Hobby
>>




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 13:29:49 EST
From: KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
Message-ID: <24dc7a43.3510129f@aol.com>

In a message dated 98-03-18 13:00:37 EST, you write:

<< Does anyone know if the Glencoe Spad is a descendent of the orginal 
 Aurora Spad like their Pfalz?  The old Aurora didn't seem to be a bad 
 model at all, especially compared to the Smer Sp-7.
 
 Matt Z. >>
Yep-the old etched markings have been removed, but it's the old Aurora.Though
not in the same class as theDML/Dragon/onolennonetc. (thanks Ernest for that
extended locution!), it's not a bad kit.
Robert K.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 13:41:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Matthew Zivich <mzivich@tardis.svsu.edu>
To: wwi
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <wwi>
Subject: Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.980318133425.17758F-100000@tardis.svsu.edu>

That Smer Spad is an odd bird indeed.  I was startled at the empannage 
which looked like a Sp 13's, but also noted that the fuselage cross 
section templates were indeed a 7's when compared to a 13's, at least 
according to the Scale Model Drawings of M.A.N.  The rubber parts were 
something else again!  I finished mine in Belgian colors, one of the Comets.
(The decals were too small anyway, meant for a 1/48th scale.)

Matt Z.



On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, Charles Hart wrote:

> Yes, it is the old Aurora kit.  FWIW the Smer 1/40 SPAD VII was originally
> released by Heller back in the 70's.
> 
> While surfing the Aviation USK site last night I noticed that there are a
> few 1/48 Czech resins available, including a SPAD VII.  Can I assume that
> this was the master for the Blue Max kit ??
> 
> Wondering.
> 
> Charles
> 
> hartc@spot.colorado.edu
> 
> 
> 
> >Does anyone know if the Glencoe Spad is a descendent of the orginal
> >Aurora Spad like their Pfalz?  The old Aurora didn't seem to be a bad
> >model at all, especially compared to the Smer Sp-7.
> >
> >Matt Z.
> >
> >On Tue, 17 Mar 1998, BStett3770 wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Jack
> >>
> >> Not yet, Glencoe tell's me late spring.
> >> Yes it should have Rickenbacker in it.
> >>
> >> I'll post to the list as soon as I get a release date.
> >>
> >> Keep Modeling
> >> Barry
> >> Rosemont Hobby
> >>
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 13:41:57 -0500
From: Don RInker <drinker@fast.net>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Making decals (been there, done that)
Message-ID: <35101575.55CC@fast.net>

rojo1@concentric.net wrote:
> 
> >Hopefully it will work.
> 
> Bet you it won't. ...


You're right.


> Wax-transfer and dye-sublimation printers can do the job, but they
> cost the moon (5 figures and up--though one maker is marketing such a
> machine to the home hobbyist on the web).

Not quite. The FARGO series of printers is excellent quality and all use
variations of the Thermal Dye-Sublimation process.
The Fargo Primapro is a full size color printer good enough for
commercail quality reproduction or artwork or photos on up to 11 x 17
paper.
Costs $1,500

The new FARGO Photofun copier for the MAC is great unit too. Actually
its set up if you have digital camer or get your photos developed onto
Photc CD's ( thats what Im doing now) THe phptoFun prints out studio
grade color prints AN can print onto decal
apper with NO PROBLEM at all. Color control is as good as your art
program!
Cost  $ 450

Both are a far distance from five figures.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 12:43:14 -0600 (CST)
From: fedders <pfed@saladin.wustl.edu>
To: wwi
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <wwi>
Subject: Re: Testors Nie 17 Color
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.980318124149.26673A-100000@saladin.wustl.edu>



On Tue, 17 Mar 1998, John Berlien wrote:

> I know this has been covered before, but I looked through some of the old
> messages and didn't see any actual paint formulas.  So the question is,
> what paint colors does everyone use for the silver color on Nieuports?
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Jack
> 
I use a light gray with a little Al mixed in.  The so-called Al finish 
actually was a white/gray with some Al powder mixed in to help it stand 
up to the sun.  By all accounts that I have seen, it did not look like Al 
paint of today

paf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 18:42:24 GMT
From: michel.lefort@ping.be (Michel LEFORT)
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Making decals (been there, done that)
Message-ID: <351214a2.1355921@relay.ping.be>

On Wed, 18 Mar 1998 12:20:18 -0500, rojo1@concentric.net wrote:

>>Hopefully it will work.
>
 --- snip ---
>Wax-transfer and dye-sublimation printers can do the job, but they=20
>cost the moon (5 figures and up--though one maker is marketing such a=20
>machine to the home hobbyist on the web).
A printer doing the job quite economically is the Alps MD-1000. It uses
a technology called "dry ink". It doesn't cost too much and the results
seems encouraging. A friend of mine, also a modeller, perchance, has got
one in his office. He is doing tests and they seem to come out quite
well.  What's more, that printer can print white, gold, silver and
metallics colours (with special cartridges, of course). You can see by
yourself on http://www.alpsusa.com/cgibin/var/alpsusa/index.html
HTH
Regards.

--
Michel Lefort <ipms.belgium@ping.be> - Braine-l'Alleud, Belgium
IPMS Belgium Treasurer & Foreign Liaison Officer (member F072)
MAFVA member #6708
http://www.ping.be/ipms-belgium
Plastic Modelling is holding History in your Hand

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 13:44:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Matthew Zivich <mzivich@tardis.svsu.edu>
To: wwi
Cc: Multiple recipients of list <wwi>
Subject: Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.980318134304.17758G-100000@tardis.svsu.edu>

Is the Onolennon Spad the one with the psychadelic colors?

On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, KarrArt wrote:

> In a message dated 98-03-18 13:00:37 EST, you write:
> 
> << Does anyone know if the Glencoe Spad is a descendent of the orginal 
>  Aurora Spad like their Pfalz?  The old Aurora didn't seem to be a bad 
>  model at all, especially compared to the Smer Sp-7.
>  
>  Matt Z. >>
> Yep-the old etched markings have been removed, but it's the old Aurora.Though
> not in the same class as theDML/Dragon/onolennonetc. (thanks Ernest for that
> extended locution!), it's not a bad kit.
> Robert K.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 13:15:55 -0600
From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" <panz-meador@vsti.com>
To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" <wwi>
Subject: RE: Testors Nie 17 Color
Message-ID: <01BD526F.FDEF2E40.panz-meador@vsti.com>

just a thought, but has anyone tried using very fine Al powder (such as may 
be found in art supply stores) in a suspension medium, say tamiya's clear 
acrylic?  if i understand the process correctly, aluminum power was 
originally added to clear dope and then brushed over the aircraft's 
surface.

phillip

-----Original Message-----
From:	fedders [SMTP:pfed@saladin.wustl.edu]
Sent:	Wednesday, March 18, 1998 12:47 PM
To:	Multiple recipients of list
Subject:	Re: Testors Nie 17 Color



On Tue, 17 Mar 1998, John Berlien wrote:

> I know this has been covered before, but I looked through some of the old
> messages and didn't see any actual paint formulas.  So the question is,
> what paint colors does everyone use for the silver color on Nieuports?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Jack
>
I use a light gray with a little Al mixed in.  The so-called Al finish
actually was a white/gray with some Al powder mixed in to help it stand
up to the sun.  By all accounts that I have seen, it did not look like Al
paint of today

paf


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 23:35:30 +0100
From: Pedro Nuno Soares <pnsoares@mail.telepac.pt>
To: "'ww1 modeling list'" <wwi>
Subject: Felixstowe F3 4258
Message-ID: <01BD52A5.AE63CEE0@fei1-p14.telepac.pt>

Bob

Wooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwwww!.


Makes me want to learn how to play checkers.


Superb work as usual!

Um abraco

Pedro

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 98 20:35:03 -01
From: infosilver@czechia.com
To: wwi
Subject: Coming WWI kits
Message-ID: <Chameleon.980318205707.infosilver@trixi.czechia.com>

I've spoken to Eduard and Hippo people today the  gist of it being:

Hippo 1/48: Gotha G.IV/G.V at least two months postponed

Eduard 1/48: first kit to come out should be Alb. Dr.I (probably taking 
benefit from rounded Alb. D.V fuselage) - end of March-April
Next Hanriot HD.1 - April, then (in no particular order) Alb. D.III, 
Nie.17, Hanriot HD.2 w/floats, Roland C.II (not to mention off-topic 
Tempest early version and Yak-3).

1/72
Hora Resin Kits: production resumed from new molds.
RVHP Resin Kits: including WWI types H.B. B.I, Anmsaldo SVA 10, Aviatik 
C.I, Voisin X Bn2, Alb. B.II, Oeffag C.II    

HTH
Ivan Subrt


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 98 19:37:15 -01
From: infosilver@czechia.com
To: wwi
Subject: RE: Munsell Color Program 
Message-ID: <Chameleon.980318210028.infosilver@trixi.czechia.com>


On Sun, 15 Mar 1998 13:14:58 -0500  Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador wrote:
>ivan:  let me know if you didn't received the full list; i sent it again 

>yesterday.  the list has Metheun, Munsell, RGB, CMYK, and bob pearson's 
>"old" CMYK (the ones you used in your web page).
>
>also, i forgot to ask:  where did you get the conversion from Metheun to 

>Munsell systems?  by comparing both books?  if so, i was wondering if 
you'd 
>be interested in austro-hungarian lozenge (painted) color conversions, 
as i 
>have the Metheun color specs for these...let me know if interested.
>
>phillip
>
Thanks Phillip, 

the file came through fine this time. I've just sent updated colours to 
http://www.czechia.com/silverbird/wwi/wwipm.htm. The shades are quite 
subdued this time and suit better to my eyes.  Munsell references 
originate from an old issue of Scale Models magazine listed in the 
sources and I raised them from A. Wrights WWI page.

Now I'm working on German naval loz (quite simple with all hexagons of 
same size), but I'm lacking information on (1) the width of hexagonal 
pattern (2)size of individual hexagons (3) proper colour shades.

I'm certainly interested in any available info on WWI aviation camouflage 
patterns and colours.

Cheers!
Ivan Subrt 
 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 98 19:48:09 -01
From: infosilver@czechia.com
To: wwi
Subject: Re: New Eduards (and tokos) 
Message-ID: <Chameleon.980318210108.infosilver@trixi.czechia.com>

On Fri, 13 Mar 1998 14:01:34 -0500  Patrick Padovan wrote:
>Dear Bob: You asked Sandy, not me, But I'll muscle in here anyway and
>answer your question: The Profi-pack versions contain everything that's 
in
>the basic version of the kit, plus additional detail parts. 

-snip- 

(Why its called
>"Profi-pack," I've no idea. Unless its because it would be more
>expensive to buy the basic kit and seperate after market details, than 
to just buy the Profi-pack.) 

Patrick,

In Czech, "profi" means common abbreviation of "professional" (and came 
here from German). The manufacturer probably ment to say that this kits 
are targeted on more demanding, expert, "professional" modelers, but in 
English speaking countries this abbreviation seems rather to evoke the 
word "profit" (as per several ironical remarks seen on the r.m.s.)

BTW thanks for the news of colour articles coming in the post.

Ivan Subrt 
 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 98 20:00:34 -01
From: infosilver@czechia.com
To: wwi
Subject: Dakoplast 1/72 Sikorsky S-XVI
Message-ID: <Chameleon.980318210148.infosilver@trixi.czechia.com>

Hi all, 

on Sunday I returned from modeling contest held at Beroun nearby Prague. 
Almost no WWI entries (exactly two - Eduard 1/48 HB D.I and Alb.D.V), but 
I managed to get first samples of new Dakoplast 1/72 Sikorsky S-XVI kits.

Tray and lid type box contains one sprue of 48 parts cleanly molded in 
light grey styrene. There is virtually no flash nor engraving except fine 
negative lines demarking ailerons and rudders. Wings, tailplane and 
rudder show slightly protruding ribs, but there's no fabric weave on 
their matt surface. Trailing edges are remarkably thin. Details include
fine Vickers MG with ammo belt, "steering wheel" type control stick, 
steering pedals and wheels/ski undercarriage option. 

Little decal sheet provides early (thin) type Russian cockades and 
tri-color pennants. Instruction sheet suggests all clear doped linen 
Sikorsky S-XIV ser. from the end of 1915. 

The boxart can be seen at http://www.czechia.com/silverbird/dak72004.jpg

Ivan Subrt

N.B. One question comes to mind: could there really been some planes 
using synchronised fuselage fitted Vickers gun serving with Russian 
imperial air force in the end of 1915? 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 15:14:12 EST
From: KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Testors Nie 17 Color
Message-ID: <f41f602.35102b16@aol.com>

In a message dated 98-03-18 13:45:10 EST, you write:

<< I use a light gray with a little Al mixed in.  The so-called Al finish 
 actually was a white/gray with some Al powder mixed in to help it stand 
 up to the sun.  By all accounts that I have seen, it did not look like Al 
 paint of today
  >>
An old C&C (part of Project Butterfly?)article gave the formula for French
silver dope, and unlike German silver gray, no black or white pigment was put
into the mix- only pure alu powder mixed into clear dope.
Robert K.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 15:14:14 EST
From: KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Testors Nie 17 Color
Message-ID: <47956182.35102b18@aol.com>

In a message dated 98-03-18 14:14:07 EST, you write:

<< just a thought, but has anyone tried using very fine Al powder (such as may
 be found in art supply stores) in a suspension medium, say tamiya's clear 
 acrylic?  if i understand the process correctly, aluminum power was 
 originally added to clear dope and then brushed over the aircraft's 
 surface.
 
 phillip >>

It's been awhile since I needed this color, but when I built the Hawk/Testors
Nieuport 17 a few years ago I got one of the metalizers (Testors I think),
poured off most of the fragile, highly evaporative medium and replaced it with
a mix of about 30% matte and 70% clear gloss and I was very pleased with the
results, the metalizer pigment is VERY fine and it didn't just look like
aluminum paint.
Robert K.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 15:14:15 EST
From: KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
To: wwi
Subject: lozenge tones; wasRe: Munsell Color Program
Message-ID: <be1c7582.35102b19@aol.com>

In a message dated 98-03-18 15:02:33 EST, you write:

<< The shades are quite 
 subdued this time and suit better to my eyes.  >>

I just bought WW I Aero # 102 December 84 and it contains a long article by
Dan SanAbbot about Fokker D VII covering practices by all the main builders.An
interesting little piece of info is that all the surfaces covered in the top
lozenge recieved a final coat of purposely brown-tinted varnish to tone down
the bright colors but the final weather proofing applied to the bottom was
clear and un-tinted.
Robert K.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 15:14:13 EST
From: KarrArt <KarrArt@aol.com>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Glencoe Spad - American Aces
Message-ID: <23547982.35102b17@aol.com>

In a message dated 98-03-18 13:46:35 EST, you write:

<< Is the Onolennon Spad the one with the psychadelic colors? >>
Yeah and it also screeches uncontrollably.(ask Ernest for more details- he
came up with the phrase)
Robert K.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 17:57:37 -0500
From: Carlos Valdes <carlos.valdes@conted.gatech.edu>
To: wwi
Subject: Re: Coming WWI kits
Message-ID: <350EFFE1.574F@conted.gatech.edu>

> Eduard 1/48: first kit to come out should be Alb. Dr.I (probably taking
> benefit from rounded Alb. D.V fuselage) - end of March-April
> Next Hanriot HD.1 - April, then (in no particular order) Alb. D.III,
> Nie.17, Hanriot HD.2 w/floats, Roland C.II (not to mention off-topic
> Tempest early version and Yak-3).

	Thanks for the report, Ivan. Is it Eduard's plan to come out with all
these kits this year?
					Carlos

------------------------------

End of WWI Digest 940
*********************