WWI Digest 902 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: German Purple (was RE: WWI wins big. etc) by Ernest Thomas 2) Re: Airfix 1:72 Albatros' by perrysm@juno.com 3) Re: Caudron G.3 by mbittner@juno.com 4) Re: Postings confirmation by mbittner@juno.com 5) Bristol F2b Markings by Zouave7@aol.com 6) CDL rib tapes by perrysm@juno.com 7) Re: CDL rib tapes by Joey Valenciano 8) Re: Caudron G.3 by Joey Valenciano 9) To Steve Perry by Joey Valenciano 10) Re: Toko SSW D.III/D.IV by DavidL1217@aol.com 11) Re: Eduard DVII by Pedro Nuno Soares 12) Re: To Steve Perry by mbittner@juno.com 13) Re: Toko SSW D.III/D.IV by mbittner@juno.com 14) Re: Caudron G.3 by mbittner@juno.com 15) aliphatic (wasRe: Eduard DVII) by KarrArt@aol.com 16) RE: Munsell Color Program by infosilver@czechia.com 17) Re: Eduard DVII by perrysm@juno.com 18) Re: To Steve Perry by perrysm@juno.com 19) Re: Munsell Color Program by KarrArt@aol.com 20) Re: Eduard DVII by KarrArt@aol.com 21) Re: Le Prieur by KarrArt@aol.com 22) Re: aliphatic (wasRe: Eduard DVII) by 23) Re: Bristol F2b Markings by Bob Pearson 24) Re: Caudron G.3 by REwing@aol.com 25) Re: aliphatic (wasRe: Eduard DVII) by KarrArt@aol.com 26) Lacing by Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <100234.3216@compuserve.com> 27) Turnbuckle colours by Shane Weier 28) RE: Eduard DVII by Shane Weier 29) Re: Lacing by Alberto Rada 30) Re: Turnbuckle colours by Alberto Rada 31) Re: Lacing by BStett3770@aol.com 32) Re: Lacing by KarrArt@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 05:17:14 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: German Purple (was RE: WWI wins big. etc) Message-ID: <34EEB7BA.4479@bellsouth.net> Sandy Adam wrote: > > > > > > Humbrol did a lovely red-brown that I used for a Roland D.II amongst > > > others and of course, as is their wont, they have now stopped making > > > it!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Is that the red/brown in tin #100? That is bad news if they stoped > > making that color. It's my favorite base color for leather. > > I'm going to my local hobby shop right now to stock up on a few tins. > > Ernest > > #100 Matt Red Brown is still in production Ernst, have no fear, but the one > I used was #133 - a perfect German Rotbrun - no more! > Sandy Sandy, I was at the hobby shop today (picking up my Eduard S.S. D-III) and I noticed we still have 4 or 5 tins of Humbrol #133. Do you need a few cans? Unfortunately, my family financial plan for 1998 doesn't allow me to donate a couple of tins of paint(that I would have to purchase special)even for another WWI modeler. SWMBO just wouldn't understand. But if you want to re-imburse me for it, I'll gladly pick up a few tins and mail them to you. Or we could start negotiations for a swap, if you're interested. I build 1/48 mostley and currently have extra Eduard Sopwith Triplanes and DML SPAD's. I'm looking for either of the Eduard Moranes. Let me know if you're interested. Ernest ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 07:08:18 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Airfix 1:72 Albatros' Message-ID: <19980221.070819.11758.4.perrysm@juno.com> Thank you My mailing address is: Steven Perry 2234 37th Ave. N. St.Petersburg, Fl 33713 On Fri, 20 Feb 1998 19:26:46 -0500 Michelle and Rory Goodwin writes: >The best reference I have for Albatros types is the Albatros Datafile >> special from Albatros Publishing. It has drawings for the entire >series (DI, DII, DIII, DV, DVa) in both 1/72 and 1/48, many photos for >each plus some painted profiles. I think I paid about $25.00 for it. >You might still be able to get it through Roll Models or Sopwith >Hobbies but I am not sure. > >Steve, > >Don't spend the money just yet; as a non-lurking member of this list >you >have access to this book, which is one of the titles in the holdings >of >the list library. You may borrow it for a month or so, a bit longer if >needed. No need to worry about postage costs. Please post your mailing >address. >I would suggest maybe loooking around for an ESCI D.III-pretty common, >not really collectable (usually from 4-$5) and closer to what you >want. >Cheers, > >Riordan (the list librarian) > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 06:14:15 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Caudron G.3 Message-ID: <19980221.061523.4502.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 04:58:22 -0500 Joey Valenciano writes: >Who is AJP? How much is that model? Is it resin or vac? Any other models >they sell? Neither resin nor vac. I think they're mainly brass and cloth. The pictures in Windsock look wonderful. >Tempting catch, but I prefer the G.4! You guys see the profile in the FMP >Frenchie? One cowl red, t'other white. These guys sure knew how to make >their planes pretty pretty. Now you know why I build so many Nieuports! :-) Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 06:15:23 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Postings confirmation Message-ID: <19980221.061523.4502.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 04:40:54 -0500 infosilver@czechia.com writes: >On Feb 15, 1998 I posted several remarks concerning: >- UTD WWI Special Collections >- Munsell Colour System >- Toko Nie.11 kit >+ sent a personal email Patrick Padovan on British WWI colours > >Just a quick question - did these posting come through to their >recipients? If the Toko Nie.11 was about it coming out last week of February, then yes, we received it. However, if there's something more you want to tell us, like it's out and I'm being sent a case of them, then no, we haven't seen that one. :-) Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 08:24:00 EST From: Zouave7@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Bristol F2b Markings Message-ID: <3965d69d.34eed572@aol.com> Thanks to Riordan, Bill Shatzer, and Sandy Adam for their responses to my post. I have a follow-on question. I have seen color "profiles" of 139 (and other) squadrons showing the white bands alternating with both black and PC-10 stripes. Any opinion on which color between the white stripes is correct (Bob Pearson perhaps)? James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 08:21:28 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: CDL rib tapes Message-ID: <19980221.082128.11758.5.perrysm@juno.com> I asked a question on CDL the other day and got some good answers. This got me thinking, (often dangerous) and here's what I came up with: I painted the CDL undersides of my Camel with Light Ivory. then painted a piece of clear decal sheet with Sand and Glosscote. I cut very narrow (!/32" or less) strips of this for rib tapes. Y'all probably been there, done that but I was pleased with the result. It looks quite a bit like photos I've seen of rib tapes on CDL. Well a lot more so than a vast expanse of Light Ivory. This technique looks good with the stock Model Masters colors mentioned, however I'm sure with a little warming up or toning down of the colors a near perfect effect can be achieved. Besides this is a Smer kit so the rib tape effect completely camos the last vestages of sanded off raised markings. Hey, use several coats of paint & gloss to build up a little thickness and this just mught be a way to do the wings of a Glencoe Albatros BTW, Joey: Thanks for the rundown on Udet's ships. I hope to build them all one day. Unfortunately the decals with the recently released Flashback E.III do not include Udet's. The flashback kit is very nice with a pretty resin cockpit.(Thank you Barry) It has Turkish & Bravarian decals. Can you or anyone else out there enlighten me as to Udet's exact fate? I've heard several stories. Reply off list if you think this question will get more groans than the one about his aircraft. Thanks, Steve Perry _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 22:34:26 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: CDL rib tapes Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980221223426.00705f8c@philonline.com.ph> >BTW, Joey: >Thanks for the rundown on Udet's ships. You're welcome. >I hope to build them all one day. You too? >Can you or >anyone else out there enlighten me as to Udet's exact fate? I've heard >several stories. Err... I think I've downloaded some literature from the Internet. I'll send direct. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 22:29:29 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Caudron G.3 Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980221222929.00705f8c@philonline.com.ph> >>Who is AJP? How much is that model? Is it resin or vac? Any other models >>they sell? > >Neither resin nor vac. I think they're mainly brass and cloth. The >pictures in Windsock look wonderful. Huh? brass and cloth? In 1/48 scale? ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 23:56:01 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: To Steve Perry Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980221235601.00707f48@philonline.com.ph> Steve Perry, I sent you an email w/ some file attachments, did you get them? I got an error message over here..... ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:55:00 EST From: DavidL1217@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Toko SSW D.III/D.IV Message-ID: <84c7b948.34ef06e7@aol.com> Yes, this pup looks great! Checks out quite well with the Datafile drawings. The DIV's markings given should be for Lenz (per serial) and should be gloss natuaral wood (dark). The Pfalz is nice and must be the earlier kit as it's rib stations need a little attention. (Lightly sand the ribs in between the scallops) still a very nice kit WITH RIGID STRUTS. If I were Chris Gannon, I would get nervous! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 16:52:44 +0100 From: Pedro Nuno Soares To: "'ww1 modeling list'" Subject: Re: Eduard DVII Message-ID: <01BD3EE9.59FB85C0@fei1-p1.telepac.pt> >Pedro: >I finished my Eudard D.VIII in 1:72 about a month ago. Glad you did it Steve. Hope I'll be able to do it too. >Spray or otherwise enhance the decals, I didn't and had some tearing especially on the fuselage band. Has anybody tried to use decals after spraying them with a coat of = clear? Will the decals thus treated leave the backing paper normally? = Will they react to setting solutions? Will a coat of Future do the job = or shall I use the varnish I usually use (Humbrol)? I've read about this = but have never tried it myself, so any input would be welcome.=20 >As for the PE struts, I painted them with GlueIt, a fairly quick drying white aliphatic glue.=20 Steve, what the devil is aliphatic glue? would PVA glue do the trick? >snip >Enjoy, it's a great kit. I wish they all included slick paper color plates like this one. Steve Perry I too think that if one manages to handle all the small PE stuff and = does something to correct the struts this will turn into quite a nice = model. I really wish the struts were better though. Steve, thanks a bunch for your answer=20 Um abraco Pedro (who's waiting for the meaning of aphilatic ;-). nb. Eduard Fokker DVII Revell Me. 262 (I know, I know but it could have been worse... at = least it's 153 above the dreaded thingie...) np. Thousand roads -David Crosby ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:22:33 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: To Steve Perry Message-ID: <19980221.113206.11430.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 10:57:32 -0500 Joey Valenciano writes: >I sent you an email w/ some file attachments, did you get them? I got an >error message over here..... Yes, us on Juno can only receive 64K messages. Anything bigger than that will either have to be split up, or not sent. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:32:01 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Toko SSW D.III/D.IV Message-ID: <19980221.113206.11430.4.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:58:21 -0500 DavidL1217@aol.com writes: >Yes, this pup looks great! Checks out quite well with the Datafile >drawings. > >The DIV's markings given should be for Lenz (per serial) and should be >gloss >natuaral wood (dark). > >The Pfalz is nice and must be the earlier kit as it's rib stations >need a >little attention. (Lightly sand the ribs in between the scallops) >still a >very nice kit WITH RIGID STRUTS. > >If I were Chris Gannon, I would get nervous! Very nervous. If I could sell my Pegasus SSW D.III's I would. However, I'll still keep one so I can use the Toko wings on it - since my first build will be the D.IV. One thing, though. Please replace the engine. Luckily, that's the only thing needing replacing. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:28:19 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Caudron G.3 Message-ID: <19980221.113206.11430.2.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 10:35:05 -0500 Joey Valenciano writes: >Huh? brass and cloth? In 1/48 scale? Yep. The main parts are a brass build up - kind of like the Eduard "strip downs" - but the brass appears to be more than just photoetched. I'm looking at the photo's of the 4 reviewed in Vol 14 No 1. I was mistaken initially; some parts are either vac, resin, rubber, wood or metal - for example, the engine with the Bleriot Hydroaeroplane is metal, but the front "cheeks" are vac. If I was into this scale, I would get one. However, be aware of the cost: in Windsock they go from 37 British pounds upto 55 pounds. Yikes! The Caudron G.3 looks great, though. Cripes! One of their next releases is a Caproni Ca3! I can't even fathom that... Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 13:01:47 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: aliphatic (wasRe: Eduard DVII) Message-ID: In a message dated 98-02-21 12:01:18 EST, you write: << what the devil is aliphatic glue? would PVA glue do the trick? >> It's very much like PVA- even tastes about the same.Whereever pva can be used, so can aliphatic resin.It's a wood working carpenter glue, the brand I use (Bordens)is yellowish and it dries with a little less rubberyness and it's a easier to sand smooth.It's takes paint nicely. Robert ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 98 19:38:20 -01 From: infosilver@czechia.com To: wwi Subject: RE: Munsell Color Program Message-ID: On Fri, 20 Feb 1998 13:22:33 -0500 Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador wrote: >by the way, the windows95-based Munsell color program (beta test version) >mentioned in this NG a week or so ago is pretty nice. it portrays the >various color spaces and allows you to enter RGB or CMY(K) colors and get >their equivalent in the other system(s). from my reading in color science, >CMYK is what you need for 4 color printing, whereas RGB (plus gamma >correction) is what you need to display the color on your monitor (beyond >the 216 standard colors allowed by web pages and windows). since it's a >free download, you guys might want to check it out. > >phillip Dear Phillip, as I mentioned beforehand, I'm unable to run Munsell software on my system. Couldn't you please email me Munsell->CMYK and Munsell->RGB cross reference if the program allows anything like batch commands. Plain text file would be O.K. as I can import it into my dbase software. I'd like to use this references to correct my German lozenge page. Thanks in advance Ivan Subrt ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 13:49:08 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard DVII Message-ID: <19980221.135357.21854.0.perrysm@juno.com> Pedro: Aliphatic glue is like white glue. Pick it up at a hobby shop catering to the R/C crowd. You could use Elmers white or wood glue also. GlueIt is just thicker & dries faster. (and a bottle was within reach when I took a notion to see if this would work) Of course you could get some tapered cross section strut stock and just use the PE struts as templates. Then you could make the PE struts into seat belts or whatever?? Have Fun Steve Perry _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 13:50:37 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: To Steve Perry Message-ID: <19980221.135357.21854.1.perrysm@juno.com> Joey: Thank you Try : smperry1@gte.net I think that address will take the file Thanks again sp On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 12:35:27 -0500 mbittner@juno.com writes: >On Sat, 21 Feb 1998 10:57:32 -0500 Joey Valenciano > writes: > >>I sent you an email w/ some file attachments, did you get them? I got >an >>error message over here..... > >Yes, us on Juno can only receive 64K messages. Anything bigger than >that >will either have to be split up, or not sent. > > >Matt Bittner > >_____________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 14:10:35 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Munsell Color Program Message-ID: <3c6db029.34ef26ad@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-21 13:50:41 EST, you write: << from my reading in color science, CMYK is what you need for 4 color printing, whereas RGB (plus gamma >> CYMK is additive color mixing, as with pigments- the old red-yellow blue thing- Blue+yellow= green etc..RGB is color mixing with light and it's subtractive.You want yellow? then screen out the blue. Used in monitors, TVs and other light emiting objects Irrelevant to the question at hand but I'm feeling frisky this morning! Robert ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 14:10:36 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard DVII Message-ID: <4d5ee738.34ef26ae@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-21 13:59:16 EST, you write: << (and a bottle was within reach when I took a notion to see if this would work) >> The mark of the improvisational master modeler! Robert ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 14:18:27 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Le Prieur Message-ID: <2673d634.34ef2885@aol.com> Hey Matt- have you checked Windsock V10 #3? June 94? There's an article by Harry Woodman about these rockets, although no good up-the-rear shots, but some intersting stuff nonethless Robert ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 13:58:05 +0000 From: To: wwi Subject: Re: aliphatic (wasRe: Eduard DVII) Message-ID: <199802212103.QAA09012@mcfeely.concentric.net> Try the tacky glue sold in crafts stores for d=E9coupage and such. It is thicker and much tackier. I have successfully used it to hold parts together prior to supergluing. For canopies, try the Micro Crystal clear, a very thin white glue that is used for making small windows in airliner kit models. Rob Visit Chandelle, the Web Journal of Aviation History ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 13:46:48 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Bristol F2b Markings Message-ID: <21464861817535@KAIEN.COM> James, Prior to being reformed as 139 Sqn, 'Z' Flight used two white stripes (a/c 'X'), which were carried over to the early days of 139 (a/c 'D' D8063). Later they used 4 white stripes (see a/c 'A' D7966 in Austrian hands) before finally covering the entire rear fuselage with 12 white and 11 black stripes (a/c 'S' D8084). In addition D8084 had spanwise w/b/w stripes between the upper wing roundels. See my profile of D8084 on the image page at http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/Images/Pearson/ Unfortunately I forgot to scan it at millions of colours so the fuselage may appear black on some browsers - it is PC10 with b/w bands on rear fuselage. regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: Zouave7@aol.com > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Bristol F2b Markings > Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 08:27:14 -0500 > > Thanks to Riordan, Bill Shatzer, and Sandy Adam for their responses to my > post. I have a follow-on question. I have seen color "profiles" of 139 (and > other) squadrons showing the white bands alternating with both black and PC-10 > stripes. > > Any opinion on which color between the white stripes is correct (Bob Pearson > perhaps)? > > James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 17:38:35 EST From: REwing@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Caudron G.3 Message-ID: <1a68b923.34ef576f@aol.com> Joey asked, << Who is AJP? How much is that model? Is it resin or vac? Any other models they sell? >> AJP Maquettes is a company that has been coming out with etched brass kits of early aircraft. You fold them up into the basic shapes and cover the appropriate parts in some kind of paper that is supplied with the kit. The scale is 1/48th. Despite being made of etched brass, they look like they can be built into a reasonable models. Some of the kits they have and cost in pounds are: A.V.Roe Triplane (1909) 36.40 1910 AVRO Triplane 40.75 1913 X12 Hydroaeroplane 54.65 1913 Caudron G.3 41.85 Caudron G.4 69.50 I think there are others, but not sure right off. The kits can be bought through Aeroclub Models. HTH, -Rick- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 17:49:11 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: aliphatic (wasRe: Eduard DVII) Message-ID: In a message dated 98-02-21 16:04:20 EST, you write: << For canopies, try the Micro Crystal clear, a very thin white glue >> This stuff tastes, smells and behaves suspiciously like slightly thickened acrylic medium sold in art supply stores.( which is not to say it's bad stuff- I use it!) Robert ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 12:22:19 -0800 From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <100234.3216@compuserve.com> To: wwi Subject: Lacing Message-ID: <34F088FB.21A1@compuserve.com> Hi folks I half remember someone mentioning the availability of photo-etched lacing during the last couple of months. Would someone be so good as to refresh my memory as to who makes it and where I can get it? Is it as good an idea as it sounds? Does it convince or am I better off doing it the hard way? Thanks Aidrian ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 08:46:26 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi'" Subject: Turnbuckle colours Message-ID: <199802220000.KAA14480@mimmon.mim.com.au> Hello all, I've had an off list enquiry from a guy who needs to know whether Nieuport Ni-28 turnbuckles were left natural metal (brass?), painted black (japanned?) or some other colour as a matter of course. I'll trawl through my refs. but this sounds like a question for the nieuport fan of all fans. Matt? Robert? Shane ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 09:00:47 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: RE: Eduard DVII Message-ID: <199802220012.KAA14585@mimmon.mim.com.au> Pedro asks a bunch of related questions: >Has anybody tried to use decals after spraying them with a coat of = > clear? > Yes >Will the decals thus treated leave the backing paper normally? No. Trim around them. The overcoat behaves the same as the normal thin clear undercoat does >Will they react to setting solutions? Yes, or rather, I've used Humbrol satin varnish with success. Better test it with your setting solution though >Will a coat of Future do the job or shall I use the varnish I usually >use (Humbrol)? See above re Humbrol. I've also tried Johnsons Super Stride (Australian equivalent of Future/Kleer) and had some success. That was on a decal I was only suspicious of though, not one that was definitely a problem, so it may not have done much :-( >Revell Me. 262 (I know, I know but it could have been worse... Zounds !! No shame at all. The darn thing hasn't even got an *engine*. Ooooo-aaaah ! Shane ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 20:43:33 -0400 From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: Lacing Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980221204333.00f9634c@pop.true.net> Hi Aidrian Fotocut has some photo etched lacing, I am not sure they look all that convincing, I prefer the dry transfer ones sold by Woody Vondracek transferman@mindspring.com (Woody Vondracek) SALUDOS Alberto At 06:44 PM 21-02-98 -0500, you wrote: >Hi folks > >I half remember someone mentioning the availability of photo-etched >lacing during the last couple of months. Would someone be so good as to >refresh my memory as to who makes it and where I can get it? Is it as >good an idea as it sounds? Does it convince or am I better off doing it >the hard way? > >Thanks > >Aidrian > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 20:46:13 -0400 From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: Turnbuckle colours Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980221204613.006f1d64@pop.true.net> Hi Shane The photos I have on the one in Florida shows them natural metal Brass SALUDOS Alberto At 06:52 PM 21-02-98 -0500, you wrote: >Hello all, > >I've had an off list enquiry from a guy who needs to know whether >Nieuport Ni-28 turnbuckles were left natural metal (brass?), painted >black (japanned?) or some other colour as a matter of course. > >I'll trawl through my refs. but this sounds like a question for the >nieuport fan of all fans. Matt? Robert? > >Shane > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 20:02:14 EST From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Lacing Message-ID: <120f0327.34ef7918@aol.com> Fotocut makes the laceing in Whip type - (German use) & Zig Zag ( British) in 1/48 & 1/72. Its really nice but not cheap. Surf on over to my web site : www. swiftsite.com/rosemonthobby To check it out. Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 21:15:33 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Lacing Message-ID: <4ee3665f.34ef8a48@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-21 18:41:31 EST, you write: << I half remember someone mentioning the availability of photo-etched lacing during the last couple of months. Would someone be so good as to refresh my memory as to who makes it and where I can get it? Is it as good an idea as it sounds? Does it convince or am I better off doing it the hard way? >> I had some lacing on an old Tom's model Works set but I never liked the way it looked- it still seemed too big and clunky, plus I found it difficult to work with.Unless there's been some improvement or refining, do it the hard way.BTW, what does your hard way consist of? Robert ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 902 *********************