WWI Digest 900 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Toko kits by mbittner@juno.com 2) Re: Prime it / Hide it by mbittner@juno.com 3) RE: Toko kits by Shane Weier 4) Eudard 1:72 D. VIII by perrysm@juno.com 5) Le Prieur by mbittner@juno.com 6) Re: BUTTONS: THANKS JOHN! by Mick Fauchon 7) Re: Prime it / Hide it by Joey Valenciano 8) Re: Prime it / Hide it by Joey Valenciano 9) Re: Prime it / Hide it by Ernest Thomas 10) CA Glue by huggins@onramp.net (John Huggins) 11) Roland C.II Walfisch by huggins@onramp.net (John Huggins) 12) Re: CA Glue by KarrArt@aol.com 13) Re: Prime it / Hide it by "Sandy Adam" 14) Re: CA Glue by "Sandy Adam" 15) Re: CDL Preferences by bucky@mail.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 16) Bristol F2B Markings by James Gibbons 17) Re: CA Glue by Joey Valenciano 18) Re: Prime it / Hide it by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 19) CA....and clear parts by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 20) Re: BUTTONS: THANKS JOHN! by Carlos Valdes 21) Super Glue Seam Filling by James Gibbons 22) Re: CA Glue by Bob Pearson 23) Armchair Auctions by "Sandy Adam" 24) Re: Armchair Auctions by Bob Pearson 25) Re: Prime it / Hide it by KarrArt@aol.com 26) Re: Prime it / Hide it by KarrArt@aol.com 27) Re: CA Glue by KarrArt@aol.com 28) RE: Extracolor by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:58:32 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Toko kits Message-ID: <19980219.191034.4342.11.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 17:49:44 -0500 Pedro Nuno Soares writes: >Matt, you should see the Pflaz engine.... I saw the instructions. The only thing that struck me odd is that it's split in half. I sure hope the seam isn't bad. >These are really nice kits, Definitely!! >May the power be with Toko What we need to do is write Toko. Thank them profusely for their current kits, and suggest others. Can you imagine a Toko Albatros D.III? I'm salivating. How about getting them into double-seaters? Albatros J-types? My mind is realing with the possibilities... Hey, here's an idea for someone - figure out how to convert the Toko SSW D.IV into an Albatros H.I!! Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:39:49 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <19980219.184319.4342.4.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 08:25:41 -0500 perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) writes: > Seams hate me! I'm currently working on a seam between the kit > plastic and the Evergreen styrene I used to fill in a space. > They were joined with Tennax 7 whatever. Many applications of > both Squadron white putty and Mr. Surfacer 1000. Sand > everything down to a mirror finish in between, hit it with > spritz of primer and there's that dang seam again. I also tried > to build up enough of a primer layer to hide it... like I said > seams hate me! > > Any good advice on joining dissimilar plastics, what glue is > best and how do you hide the crime? I use - in all seriousness here - a plexiglas solvent. It will definitely join dissimilar plastics extremely well. It bonds better than CA - I have had CA break at a joint, while the plexiglas joint won't break, and the area around the joint will break before the joint. Mine came from a shop in Des Moines, so check around your area. The label has on it "solvent for cementing plexiglas". However, you want caustic, this is it. Extremely dangerous, and not to be used carelessly. I have some armor friends that use this to honestly glue photoetch to their models. This melts the plastic so well, it's possible to do. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 12:21:12 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: RE: Toko kits Message-ID: <199802200331.NAA07303@mimmon.mim.com.au> Matt, > >J-types? My mind is realing with the possibilities... > That would be "reeling" I suspect. ;-) But I suppose you can spell Nieuport without a typo even if you persist in building them 33.3333333% under size Shane ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:54:47 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Eudard 1:72 D. VIII Message-ID: <19980219.185447.9390.2.perrysm@juno.com> Pedro: I finished my Eudard D.VIII in 1:72 about a month ago. Spray or otherwise enhance the decals, I didn't and had some tearing especially on the fuselage band. As for the PE struts, I painted them with GlueIt, a fairly quick drying white aliphatic glue. They took on a tear drop cross section after several coats. Do it with the struts in the metal tree. Clean them up on both sides so the first coat covers evenly. First coat takes longest. Try not to get any glue on the surrounding metal. Take care to get an even first coat and have a bit of patience and those PE struts will look spot on when you look directly at the model. Don't forget the LG struts like I did..... Enjoy, it's a great kit. I wish they all included slick paper color plates like this one. Steve Perry On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:17:27 -0500 Pedro Nuno Soares writes: >I've never used XTRACOLOR- how is it? I mean aside form color accuracy >= >or >anything- how is it to use? Sprayability? hand brushing? drying time? >= >Opacity? >Thanks >Robert > >Hi Robert, > >This is very good stuff IMHO. All the paints are gloss (except for the >= >interior grey-green, I believe) so that you can do without gloss = >spraying for decal application, they thin very well with White spirit >- = >guess you call it mineral spirits - and they cover very well too. > >I've use several of their paints with consistent good results. Last >week = >when I was lucky enough to go to hannants - which incidentally are = >their manufacturers - I picked up what I thought was the entire WW1 >line = >- German Green, German Purple and German underside blue. I wasn't >aware = >that there was a CDL :-( and I was in a hurry so I just picked up the >= >numbers I had on my list and didn't bother to examine the rack in = >detail... wish I had, though....=20 > >HTH > >Um abraco >Pedro > > >nl: Genesis - Foxtrot (you remember watcher of the skies, guys?)=20 >nb. Won't tell you because since my last flopped effort (remember my = >fish scale Roland?) I don't want to have to admit again that I've set >= >the mark to high. All I can tell you is that It has 1 wing and lots of >= >crappy PE struts that I will try to substitute with Contrail stock = >struts. Body in 4 colour lozenge (the ones on the kit are the most = >intriguing colours you ever seen, so I'm planning to use 4 color from >= >propagteam which look ok to me, and wings in green, stripes on >tailplane = >and ...oh heck it's the Eduard Fokker DVIII , in 1/72 of course...=20 > >So far I managed to get the fuselage finished. Now the fun is about to >= >begin.... > >BTW would the struts be painted in the same green of the wing or would >= >they be more like the grey-green on the inside framing?. > >Just another small note: I tried to replicate the lozenge on the >inside = >with artists pencils. I painted the interior in German field grey and >= >then made dots/lozenge/stains in with blue, brown, green pencils. >Since = >the cockpit looks quite crowded once the PE inside is set in you look >= >into the cockpit and what you get is a diffused impression of coloured >= >fabric on the walls and back panel that look quite ok to me. Guess >that = >this trick won't work in larger scales though. >BTW, any of you done this one? are the decals usable without coating = >with clear? If you done one, plese share with me ;-) > >Outro abraco >Pedro > >=00=00 > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 20:32:04 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Le Prieur Message-ID: <19980219.203206.4342.12.mbittner@juno.com> I'm having difficulty here. I'm working on the Le Prieur's for my Nie.16, and I can't figure out with the three references I have, whether or not the rear end was hollow, packed almost to the edge, or packed to the edge leaving no indication of an opening nor propellant. My guess would be packed almost to the edge. Thoughts? Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 15:38:21 +1100 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: BUTTONS: THANKS JOHN! Message-ID: > > << Thanks, John! Fantastic job. Let me know how I can repay you for > your work, effort, and postage. > Regards, Patrick >> I second the sentiment, but neither hide nor hair of a button yet 8'0( Did you get my "order", John? TIA, Mick. -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 10:42:01 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980220104201.006da0f8@philonline.com.ph> >Thanks Joey: >I'll use CA in the future. I like the part about not waiting hours, now I >can bull ahead without a quilty conscience. I'm also going to adopt the >marker trick. It the price of Mr. Surfacer, I'll mess around with the >marker till I sure I've got the seam nailed before priming. One more thing, Mr. Surfacer will ALWAYS be softer than the plastic. It will dent if you press a fingernail into it. With a little experience, on the other hand, you can work on super glue's hardness of your choice, depending on how long you allow it to harden. >I put those G.3 instructions in the mail the other day, so you start >badgering the postman. Thanks! ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 10:48:42 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980220104842.006da0f8@philonline.com.ph> > Have you tried typing correction fluid? Dries quickly, sands well, and >works great for filling those infuriating pinholes. Curing pinholes w/ superglue: Gouge into the pinhole a bit so that you're sure that the super glue goes into the hole. Another trick, when gluing clear parts, attach the parts initially with very little super glue to avoid frosting. Use very sparingly to avoid the buildup of fumes. When dry, and the seam is sealed, add more super glue to the seam, treat the glue as a putty. Avoid any air bubbles getting trapped in the glue. When dry, wet sand (finishing w/ 1000 or 12000 grit) the area flush and end by polishing with tissue and metal polish or some similar mildly abrasive liquid. Try it!! ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 23:18:38 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <34ED122E.46AD@bellsouth.net> Joey Valenciano wrote: > > Another trick, when gluing clear parts, attach the parts initially with > very little super glue to avoid frosting. Use very sparingly to avoid the > buildup of fumes. Using the odorless type ca helps this solve this problem. But you still have to be careful about using too much on clear parts. Ernest It's hard to be b-brave when you're such a s-small animal. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 00:59:37 -0600 (CST) From: huggins@onramp.net (John Huggins) To: wwi Subject: CA Glue Message-ID: FYI, The CA glues were developed in the medical industry for battlefield wounds and for closing cuts in areas where normal stiches would not work like in the eyes and other such areas. This all started in the late 40's or earaly 50's. There is a new twist to the old materials that is being tested now for general usage. It is slower setting and adheres to skin for about 10 days. I have models that are 15 plus years old that were constructed entirely with CA. The seams are still closed, none of the sink marks have fallen out and it has not shrunk at all. I put in on the seam, kick it with the accelerator, athe file it to the surface contour. Then I take a tri grit polishing stick anf in about 15 seconds, the area is as smooth as glass. I also make my wing tip and landing lights with the stuff. First, cut a notch in the winf. Coat the surface with a kicker, then start putting drops of CA in the notch. Continue the drops till the area is slightly overfilled. The kicker will make the CA set as soon as it is in place. File the wing tip or leading edge to shape and polish with the tri grit stick. The result is a clear area on the wing. You can trick this system up by adding pin heads to represent the light bulbs. When overcoated with your favorite colored clear you have a colered transparent light. You can even use this method to install windows in fuselages. Overcoat the window with the CA, file and polish an dyou have a clear wiindow with no seam around it when you are finished. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 01:01:07 -0600 (CST) From: huggins@onramp.net (John Huggins) To: wwi Subject: Roland C.II Walfisch Message-ID: The following was found on Squadron's web page this evening. Blue Max from England 1/48 Scale Aircraft WW-PG0201 Roland C.II Walfisch $59.98....$49.96 WWI German two seater, Limited Edition, injection moulded plastic, white metal parts, markings for Feld Flieger Abteilung 2b,& Kampfgeschwader1, Staffel 6 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 03:08:33 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: CA Glue Message-ID: <1ed8aded.34ed3a03@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-20 02:00:47 EST, you write: << I have models that are 15 plus years old that were constructed entirely with CA. The seams are still closed, none of the sink marks have fallen out and it has not shrunk at all. >> It works great on wood also- even open grained stuff like balsa- especially the 'green' label Zap-a-Gap. I've got large scratch built people-figures made at least a decade ago and they're still in fine shape. I also use this stuff to varnish small items such as wooden instrument panels. Robert ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:59:46 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <199802201011.KAA17203@beryl.sol.co.uk> ...............................BTW, I've found > that brand name drug store bought Krazy glue works better for gluing invisible > thread and fishing line than Zap-a-Gap.It sets harder and has more raw holding > power- which is good for me since my rigging is structural- if it fails,the > model in question will assume strange shapes and invent for itself new > geometries! > Robert And to follow on from there.... If you rig by drilling right through the wing and cut threads off on the other side then the spot of CA that you use to hold/fill the small hole is easily removed say ten minutes after you've finished a section. When you then paint the outside surfaces, you'll see no trace of the holes. I find a swipe or two of a medium sanding stick is all thats needed - while the CA is relatively fresh. Did my Jenny Ambulance wings (now thats a complex arrangement - 3 bays of double flying wires!) in about 2 hours last night like this. (I don't want to even think about turnbuckles at the moment!) Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 10:15:42 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: CA Glue Message-ID: <199802201011.KAA17210@beryl.sol.co.uk> > It works great on wood also- .............. > Robert The one thing I have found CA (At least the ones I usually use - Pro-Bond etc) will not hold is the silky thread/cord I use to wrap around u/c legs to represent bungee chord. The CA floods the fibres of the cord and sets it hard, but doesn't stick it to the plastic or brass! I use PVA but am not entirely happy that it won't go POPOIIINNNNG! (thanks, Robert) at midnight on the 31st December 1999! I suppose epoxy would do it but I hate mixing the stuff - any other suggestions? Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 07:58:35 -0500 From: bucky@mail.ptd.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: CDL Preferences Message-ID: <199802201258.HAA00194@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 06:03 AM 2/18/98 -0500, perrysm@juno.com wrote: >Thanks for the pink tire info. I'll put it to good use. > >I've been using Model Master's Light Ivory for CDL. It looks ok to me >and sets glossy enough to put decals on. > >Is there a more accurate color that I could use? I've used that and Modern Desert Sand seems even better! Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 08:27:15 -0500 From: James Gibbons To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Bristol F2B Markings Message-ID: <01BD3DD9.5B83BE00.jgibbons@vppsa.com> Hello all, I'm working on an Airfix F2b and my color references are lacking in a couple of areas. I was wondering if anyone knew whether the underside of the fuselage of F2b's was CDL or PC-10. I can't tell from the photographs I have. Also, when you see a band-like Squadron marking (for example the white fuselage rings for 139 squadron), did those rings continue onto the bottom of the aircraft fuselage or were they only on the tops and sides? Any help anyone can give will be appreciated, James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 19:32:22 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: CA Glue Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980220193222.006ae0e0@philonline.com.ph> > I have models that are 15 plus years old that were constructed entirely >with CA. The seams are still closed, none of the sink marks have fallen >out and it has not shrunk at all. But..... Forget the tip you hear about using baking soda as a filler. I have used it in the past and found the material to turn brown, brittle, and totally useless. after a few years. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 08:39:30 +0000 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <199802201441.IAA27081@tscrypt1.transcrypt.com> I have had reasonable luck in the past by mixing talcum powder in with a medium gray flat paint for a "final surfacer". Granted, all major filling should be done, but brushing this on and sanding with fine (600+ grit) wet paper gives a fairly smooth surface--just don't lay it on too heavy. Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:35:35 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: CA....and clear parts Message-ID: <19980220.093537.15582.0.perrysm@juno.com> Fooling with CA around clear parts??? Someone has more brass than I do and it ain't photo- etched. Have you tried the Testor's canopy cement? Kind of a yellowish pearly looking stuff that dries crystal clear. Great for making small windows, (Rolland C.II), you can see interior detail thru them. You can do a window with it, prime & paint the fuselage then just tickle the painted over window with a sharp #11 and it's gone. Re-do it with fresh canopy cement and that interior you worked so hard on is protected and clearly visible through nearly scale thick (thin) windows.. It also works great at sealing right angle gaps like where a lower wing doesn't quite meet flush with the fuselage side. Lay on a small bead, if you get too much, wipe the seam with a damp Q-tip and you'll either get a perfect fillet or wipe it completely clean depending on how hard you swipe. It has a tendency to dry in the tip and clog, so keep a small piece of steel wire handy to poke with. Don't stick a piece of brass wire down the tip and leave it there. It will react with the copper in the brass and turn about the color of the Statue of Liberty. Steve Perry _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 09:56:12 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi Subject: Re: BUTTONS: THANKS JOHN! Message-ID: <2.2.32.19980220145612.006b56d0@conted.swann.gatech.edu> >> << Thanks, John! Fantastic job. Let me know how I can repay you for >> your work, effort, and postage. >> Regards, Patrick >> > > I second the sentiment, but neither hide nor hair of a button yet 8'0( > Did you get my "order", John? > Same here with me, John. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 10:15:07 -0500 From: James Gibbons To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Super Glue Seam Filling Message-ID: <01BD3DE8.6E427CC0.jgibbons@vppsa.com> I have a question for the folks out there using super to fill seams... I'm currently using Squadron white putty but it sure can be hard to apply to small seams and I'm interested in switching to CA. When using super glue as a filler do you use an accelerator or let it cure naturally, and what is the best method for applying it to seams? I have seen "precision" applicator tips for super glue bottles but have avoided buying any because I assumed they would get blocked very quickly. Thanks in advance for any advice, James Gibbons ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 08:02:40 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: CA Glue Message-ID: <16024065114668@KAIEN.COM> Sandy, Back in the days of building my wooden sailing ships I would use clear nail polish to attach the various threads. Bob Pearson ---------- > From: "Sandy Adam" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: CA Glue > Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 05:21:42 -0500 > > > It works great on wood also- > ............. > > Robert > > The one thing I have found CA (At least the ones I usually use - Pro-Bond > etc) will not hold is the silky thread/cord I use to wrap around u/c legs > to represent bungee chord. The CA floods the fibres of the cord and sets it > hard, but doesn't stick it to the plastic or brass! > I use PVA but am not entirely happy that it won't go POPOIIINNNNG! (thanks, > Robert) at midnight on the 31st December 1999! > I suppose epoxy would do it but I hate mixing the stuff - any other > suggestions? > Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 10:45:49 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: "AAA - WW1 Group" Subject: Armchair Auctions Message-ID: <199802201609.QAA00973@beryl.sol.co.uk> Bob drew our attention to George Murdoch and his "Armchair Auctions" a few months ago and I sent off for a monthly list. Does anybody else get this? I'm interested if anybody has seen GM's premises in Andover (98 Junction Street)? Graham? If a number of us participate,we could discuss this on-list, if its only Bob and me, we could take it off-line. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 08:31:13 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Armchair Auctions Message-ID: <16311372414738@KAIEN.COM> What, you people actually listen to me? Okay a few ground rules then . . . - first off you aren't allowed to bid on any books I want - you must check with me first before bidding Actually I haven't bid in a little while, but have only had the best of service back when I was getting 2-3 books a month from George. I think the 98 Junction St. address is most likely his residence as the name has changed from his old name of GM Services and he has mentioned that the phone/fax are on the same line so don't call at 2am. Glad to see that the list has given him some business :-) regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: "Sandy Adam" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Armchair Auctions > Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 11:20:02 -0500 > > Bob drew our attention to George Murdoch and his "Armchair Auctions" a few > months ago and I sent off for a monthly list. Does anybody else get this? > I'm interested if anybody has seen GM's premises in Andover (98 Junction > Street)? Graham? > > If a number of us participate,we could discuss this on-list, if its only > Bob and me, we could take it off-line. > > Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 12:23:20 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <715920d6.34edbc0a@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-20 05:18:35 EST, you write: << If you rig by drilling right through the wing and cut threads off on the other side then the spot of CA that you use to hold/fill the small hole is easily removed say ten minutes after you've finished a section. When you then paint the outside surfaces, you'll see no trace of the holes. I find a swipe or two of a medium sanding stick is all thats needed - while the CA is relatively fresh. Did my Jenny Ambulance wings (now thats a complex arrangement - 3 bays of double flying wires!) in about 2 hours last night like this. >> Exactly how I do it! I even find it "fun" to do rigging this way.Turnbuckles and other such fittings are little shaped blobs of white glue or thickened craft acrylic.In 1/48 or smaller, using an actual "thing"such as tubing or PE doo-dads never looks quite delicate enough. Robert ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 12:23:22 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <5198a046.34edbc1c@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-20 09:34:51 EST, you write: << I have had reasonable luck in the past by mixing talcum powder in with a medium gray flat paint for a "final surfacer". Granted, all major filling should be done, but brushing this on and sanding with fine (600+ grit) wet paper gives a fairly smooth surface--just don't lay it on too heavy. Paul A. Schwartzkopf >> Talcum powder is another one of those miracle substances. I fill wood grain with a mix of either laquer or dope. Robert ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 12:23:21 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: CA Glue Message-ID: In a message dated 98-02-20 05:25:14 EST, you write: << The one thing I have found CA (At least the ones I usually use - Pro-Bond etc) will not hold is the silky thread/cord I use to wrap around u/c legs to represent bungee chord. The CA floods the fibres of the cord and sets it hard, but doesn't stick it to the plastic or brass! I use PVA but am not entirely happy that it won't go POPOIIINNNNG! (thanks, Robert) at midnight on the 31st December 1999! I suppose epoxy would do it but I hate mixing the stuff - any other suggestions? Sandy >> I use thin sewing thread for bungee wrapping, but first I run it through a little white glue or craft acrylic (oh no- here come the guys in the white jackets- I'm painting string!).I squeegee it with my fingers and when it dries in a couple of minutes, I run it through pinched sandpaper (here they come once more- I'm caught sanding string!!!).This takes off most of the fuzz and c/a LOVES to stick to craft acrylic. I use epoxy on large wooden joints- such as the arms on my figures- but I also hate mixing and no matter how careful I am, I still end up with sticky fingers. Sometimes if it's the end of the day, I'll set up a few wood joints with aliphatic white glue- that way it can dry overnight and I'm not bored waiting around for it to dry. Robert ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 12:21:18 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Extracolor Message-ID: <01BD3DFA.0CCB2480.panz-meador@vsti.com> FWIW, here's what i got off the rollmodels (www.rollmodels.com) and rosemont hobby (www.swiftsite.com/rosemont/) sites for Xtracolor and Polly S paints, respectively. the former are US$1.65 each while the latter are 1 oz. @ US$1.79. polly s/rosemont # description xtracolor # description ========= ================= ========== ====================== 505029 doped linen XT020 NIVO 505032 PC-10 (FS 34098) XT021 RFC doped natural fabric 505035 german mauve (FS 37144) XT022 RFC green 505038 french/fokker dark green (FS 34096) XT241 topside green XT242 topside purple XT243 underside blue XT251 gelbolive (yellow-olive) * XT252 weissaluminum * XT253 leuchtorange * XT254 basaltgrau * XT255 silbergrau (silver gray) * XT256 grungrau (green gray) * XT257 steingrau (?) * XT258 staubgrau (?) * XT259 quartzgrau (?) * XT260 lichtgrau * XT261 olivegrun * XT262 schwartzgrau (black-gray) * XT264 graublau (gray blue) * XT201 RLM grau ** notes: ===== sorry for excluding french colors, as these are listed in both catalogs; however, my ignorance of the late war french 5-color camo, and how they correspond to WW2 french colors, is absolute. also, the polly s paints listed were the only ones called out explicitely as being WW1 colors. * MAYBE WW1 german lozenge colors? these were distinct from the WW2 german colors... ** useful for german primer color on steel tubing structure, struts, interiors of metal panels, etc.? by the way, the windows95-based Munsell color program (beta test version) mentioned in this NG a week or so ago is pretty nice. it portrays the various color spaces and allows you to enter RGB or CMY(K) colors and get their equivalent in the other system(s). from my reading in color science, CMYK is what you need for 4 color printing, whereas RGB (plus gamma correction) is what you need to display the color on your monitor (beyond the 216 standard colors allowed by web pages and windows). since it's a free download, you guys might want to check it out. phillip -----Original Message----- From: Pedro Nuno Soares [SMTP:pnsoares@mail.telepac.pt] Sent: Thursday, February 19, 1998 5:17 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Extracolor I've never used XTRACOLOR- how is it? I mean aside form color accuracy = or anything- how is it to use? Sprayability? hand brushing? drying time? = Opacity? Thanks Robert Hi Robert, This is very good stuff IMHO. All the paints are gloss (except for the = interior grey-green, I believe) so that you can do without gloss = spraying for decal application, they thin very well with White spirit - = guess you call it mineral spirits - and they cover very well too. I've use several of their paints with consistent good results. Last week = when I was lucky enough to go to hannants - which incidentally are = their manufacturers - I picked up what I thought was the entire WW1 line = - German Green, German Purple and German underside blue. I wasn't aware = that there was a CDL :-( and I was in a hurry so I just picked up the = numbers I had on my list and didn't bother to examine the rack in = detail... wish I had, though....=20 HTH Um abraco Pedro nl: Genesis - Foxtrot (you remember watcher of the skies, guys?)=20 nb. Won't tell you because since my last flopped effort (remember my = fish scale Roland?) I don't want to have to admit again that I've set = the mark to high. All I can tell you is that It has 1 wing and lots of = crappy PE struts that I will try to substitute with Contrail stock = struts. Body in 4 colour lozenge (the ones on the kit are the most = intriguing colours you ever seen, so I'm planning to use 4 color from = propagteam which look ok to me, and wings in green, stripes on tailplane = and ...oh heck it's the Eduard Fokker DVIII , in 1/72 of course...=20 So far I managed to get the fuselage finished. Now the fun is about to = begin.... BTW would the struts be painted in the same green of the wing or would = they be more like the grey-green on the inside framing?. Just another small note: I tried to replicate the lozenge on the inside = with artists pencils. I painted the interior in German field grey and = then made dots/lozenge/stains in with blue, brown, green pencils. Since = the cockpit looks quite crowded once the PE inside is set in you look = into the cockpit and what you get is a diffused impression of coloured = fabric on the walls and back panel that look quite ok to me. Guess that = this trick won't work in larger scales though. BTW, any of you done this one? are the decals usable without coating = with clear? If you done one, plese share with me ;-) Outro abraco Pedro =00=00 ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 900 *********************