WWI Digest 899 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) 21st Profiles by Graham Nash 2) Re: Priming fabric textures by GRBroman@aol.com 3) Re: Priming fabric textures by GRBroman@aol.com 4) Re: SE5a engine query by Bob Pearson 5) Re: Prime it / Hide it by Joey Valenciano 6) Re: Priming fabric textures by "Sandy Adam" 7) Re: SE5a engine query by "Sandy Adam" 8) Re: Prime it / Hide it by Charles Hart 9) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by KarrArt@aol.com 10) Re: Prime it / Hide it by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 11) Re: SE5a engine query by Bob Pearson 12) Photo web site by Robert Godfrey 13) Re: Photo web site by Carlos Valdes 14) Re: Pfalz DIII Photos Arrived by Patrick Padovan 15) Re: Photo web site by aew (Allan Wright) 16) Re: Prime it / Hide it by ModelerAl@aol.com 17) Re: Prime it / Hide it by Patrick Padovan 18) Re: SE5a engine query by BStett3770@aol.com 19) Re: Prime it / Hide it by KarrArt@aol.com 20) Re: SE5a engine query by BStett3770@aol.com 21) Toko kits by Pedro Nuno Soares 22) Prime it/Hide it.....Hid it! by perrysm@juno.com 23) Extracolor by Pedro Nuno Soares 24) RE: Toko SSW D.III/D.IV by Pedro Nuno Soares 25) DH-4 Info Sought by "Chris Banyai-Riepl" 26) Re: Priming fabric textures by mbittner@juno.com 27) Re: Extracolor by mbittner@juno.com 28) Re: Priming fabric textures by mbittner@juno.com 29) Re: Priming fabric textures by mbittner@juno.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 15:13:47 -0800 From: Graham Nash To: wwi Subject: 21st Profiles Message-ID: <199802191513.AA15311@egate2.citicorp.com> These are being knocked out at GBP0.75/US$1.25 each or 3 for GBP2.00/US$3.25. N B.These ARE NOT the Profiles that are listed on the web-site, but instead have multiple, usually off-topic content. I seem to remember that the editor of SAM/SAMI was recently bemoaning their having gone out of business some time ago. For those still unsure, contents are as follows, but note that the shop did not have all of them available. Vol No Issue No ON-TOPIC OFF-TOPIC 1 1 Sopwith Cobham(1/72nd plan+ 3-view Colour plate)-almost De Havilland DH 110 (13 Colour profiles) 1 1 Wellington Part 1 (3v-Colour plate & GA) 1 1 Spitfire Mk 1(3v-Colour profile) 1 2 Hurricane Mk 1 1 2 Mosquito IX & 34 1 2 Panavia Tornado 1 2 Wellington Mk 1 1 3 Hurricane Mk II 1 3 Spitfire Mk II 1 3 Me 109G 1 3 Wellington Specials 1 4 Vanguard (Biplane) 1 4 Hurricane Mk IV/V 1 4 Spitfile Mk.III 1 4 Me 109G Part II 1 5 Spitfire Mk.IV 1 5 Wellington Mk II 1 5 Sopwith Snail 1 5 Ju 88 1 6 Avro Manchester 1 6 Specification B.12/36 1 6 Sopwth Rhino 1 6 Spitfire Mk.V Part I 1 7 Supernarine F.18/37 Fighter 1 7 Sopwith Gnu (kind of) 1 7 P-47 Thunderbolt 1 7 Sopwith Snark 1 8 Gloster Whittle E.28/39 + G.A. 1 8 Sopwith Snapper + G.A. 1 8 Spitfire Mk.V Part 2 (13 colour profiles) 1 9 P-47 Part 2 1 9 Wellington Mine Sweeper 1 9 Supermarine Air Yacht 1 10 Bristol Buckingham 1 10 Wellington Mk III 1 10 Specification F.7/30 1 11 Sopwith Atlantic (just) 1 11 A W Albemarle 1 11 Grumman Tigercat (12 colour profiles) 1 12 Gloster F.9/37 1 12 Wellington Mk V. 1 12 Grumman Bearcat 1 12 Air Controlled Interception 1 12 Wellington AWAC 1 13 Avro Lancaster 1 13 Spitfire HF Mk.VI 1 13 Bristol Buckmaster Let me know off-list if interested. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:36:48 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <94646961.34ec5194@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-18 20:20:49 EST, you write: << I've heard of something called "Mr. Surfacer" a primer which is also a light filler. Might be just right for this application, but I hear it's quite expensive at around $10 US a can. Unfortunately, this technique is only applicable to munchkin scale, as something like an AMT DH4B would require actual dipping in a can of primer to make any difference! Someday, I'll buy an orbital sander so I can start that project :-). >> Okay, here's another one to try. DuPont Chromabase. Its a liquid filer that can be sprayed on. It's premixed and ready to spary.It fills gaps and low spots. Simply spray (or brush) it on, wait 24 hours, and then sand. This stuff was demo'd at our club meeting last Saturday. You can us multiple coats. Bob demostrated on a *gaak* Me-110. The end result was very nice. May be just the ticket for the old Niueport. Glen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:37:08 EST From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: In a message dated 98-02-19 06:15:03 EST, you write: << Is it a general practice of guys on this list to remove texured fabric finishes from models? >> Only when we're alone or with somebody :). As a general rule, fabric texture would not be visible for two reasons. One, many doped surfaces are quite smooth and two, most textured surfaces, especially reduced to 1/72, really wouldn't be visible. Of course, the decision to sand it or leave it is a personal one. Of course, if you build lots and lots of Airfix and Emhar WW I tanks, you don't have this problem, right Matt? :-) Glen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 07:40:28 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: SE5a engine query Message-ID: <15402846811834@KAIEN.COM> Sandy, Much thanks, I hadn't looked at the print of D6444 closely enough, I meant D3444. This has an interesting presentation of the serial on the fin - it is highlighted with a drop shadow. Regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: "Sandy Adam" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: SE5a engine query > Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 05:05:08 -0500 > > > > I am working on some SE5a profiles for FMP and find I need to determine > > whether the engine is a Hisso or Viper in three of them. They are . . . > > > > D6444 > > E5750 > > F5547 > > Hi Bob > The SE5 File doesn't list a D6444: goes from D6198 to next batch starting > D6851. > E5750 is one of a batch of 300 from Austin Motor Co but some of these have > H-S and some Viper. E5750 only states "At 84Sqd by 12/11/18, still there > 17/7/19" > F5547 is a Viper. (41 Sqd "Y"). > HTH Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 00:12:00 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980220001200.006d8e08@philonline.com.ph> At 08:25 AM 2/19/98 -0500, you wrote: >Seams hate me! >I'm currently working on a seam between the kit plastic and the Evergreen >styrene I used to fill in a space. They were joined with Tennax 7 >whatever. I've been using superglue as a filler and have always had good results. I also use it as a glue, I used to use chloroform to join plastic but have also replaced it with superglue for most applications. If you use plastic or liquid cement to glue fuselage halves, you'll have to wait a long time for the plastic and glue material in the join area to stabilize. Not a problem when you use superglue. For your application, I suggest that you apply superglue to the seam, trying to get as little of it onto the surrounding area. Use a thin wire to apply. The less super glue, the less to sand. When the super glue has hardened, sand it down. It is adviseable not to wait for hours since the super glue will be harder to sand. One trick I use is to go over the area with a felt tip marker before sanding. Once you've sanded all the marker ink away, you can tell that you've got a smooth surface. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 16:17:44 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <199802191612.QAA18574@beryl.sol.co.uk> > > << Is it a general practice of guys on this list to remove texured fabric > finishes from models? >> > > Only when we're alone or with somebody ................. > Glen ROTFL! (If I may borrow your phrase Matt - suppose it should be "rotfl" since it'll be in teensy-weensy scale!) Nice one Glen. Why couldn't I have thought of that reply. I'd enjoy removing several layers of textured fabric from Caprice - wouldn't be able to make any kits for a long time though - my hands would still be shaking! Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 16:23:02 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: SE5a engine query Message-ID: <199802191617.QAA18809@beryl.sol.co.uk> Much thanks, I hadn't looked at the print of D6444 closely enough, I meant > D3444. This has an interesting presentation of the serial on the fin - it is > highlighted with a drop shadow. > > Regards, > Bob Pearson Happy to be of some slight help, Bob after all your generosity with profiles. D3444 is a Viper - seems to have been a good'un - 8 kills for Capt IDR MacDonald of 24Sqdn. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:30:53 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: Joey writes: > I used to use chloroform to join plastic but have >also replaced it with superglue for most applications. This was a very wise move. Halogenated organic compounds are decidedly hazardous to your health. There is already enough stuff related to modeling that we expose ourselves to that can do plenty of harm. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:47:30 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: In a message dated 98-02-19 05:02:14 EST, you write: << But it's not consistent! I've got Humbrol tins that do exactly the same, but others that seal perfectly! >> To be perfectly fair to Humbrol, I'll say yes to the inconsistant part- I do have a couple of tins that have been around for years- there both some kind of horrible goat-byproduct color that I use for priming small objects. Perhaps I should have said "generally speaking"! I've also noticed the softness of the cured product, but this doesn't seem to be a problem when Humbrol is mixed with other brands- I've got a bottle of home-brew PC10 I mixed early last year from Humbrol and Testors and it dries HARD- maybe harder than just the Testors alone. I seem to remember that even Leonardo daVinci had problems- he thought he could find a better medium than what his local hobby shop could offer so he tried, I think it was, walnut oil. He liked the workability and final finish, but after a while, the paint surface dissolved,went wacky, and the world thereby was deprived of some of Leonardo's work. Paint chemistry is more alchemy than anything else! Robert ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:34:23 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <19980219.113424.21558.0.perrysm@juno.com> Thanks Joey: I'll use CA in the future. I like the part about not waiting hours, now I can bull ahead without a quilty conscience. I'm also going to adopt the marker trick. It the price of Mr. Surfacer, I'll mess around with the marker till I sure I've got the seam nailed before priming. I put those G.3 instructions in the mail the other day, so you start badgering the postman. Steve Perry On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:13:46 -0500 Joey Valenciano writes: >At 08:25 AM 2/19/98 -0500, you wrote: >>Seams hate me! >>I'm currently working on a seam between the kit plastic and the >Evergreen >>styrene I used to fill in a space. They were joined with Tennax 7 >>whatever. > >I've been using superglue as a filler and have always had good >results. >I also use it as a glue, I used to use chloroform to join plastic but >have >also replaced it with superglue for most applications. > >If you use plastic or liquid cement to glue fuselage halves, you'll >have to >wait a long time for the plastic and glue material in the join area to >stabilize. Not a problem when you use superglue. > >For your application, I suggest that you apply superglue to the seam, >trying to get as little of it onto the surrounding area. Use a thin >wire to >apply. The less super glue, the less to sand. When the super glue has >hardened, sand it down. It is adviseable not to wait for hours since >the >super glue will be harder to sand. One trick I use is to go over the >area >with a felt tip marker before sanding. Once you've sanded all the >marker >ink away, you can tell that you've got a smooth surface. > > >********************************************************************* > >Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, >joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist >tel. (632) 921-26-75 >Metro-Manila, Philippines > > "The more you know, the more you don't know." > >********************************************************************* > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:04:53 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: SE5a engine query Message-ID: <17045360212020@KAIEN.COM> Sandy, I just checked in Above the Trenches, and McDonald's (and D3444) final victory was over Kurt Wusthoff, which he shared with 3 other pilots. After the war he went to Mesopotamia were on 21 September 1921 he was hit by ground fire, captured, and later found shot dead. Ian Donald Roy McDonald was 21 years old. regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: "Sandy Adam" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: SE5a engine query > Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:28:12 -0500 > > Much thanks, I hadn't looked at the print of D6444 closely enough, I meant > > D3444. This has an interesting presentation of the serial on the fin - it > is > > highlighted with a drop shadow. > > > > Regards, > > Bob Pearson > > Happy to be of some slight help, Bob after all your generosity with > profiles. > D3444 is a Viper - seems to have been a good'un - 8 kills for Capt IDR > MacDonald of 24Sqdn. > Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:36:49 -0600 From: Robert Godfrey To: wwi Subject: Photo web site Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980219113649.007b49a0@pop.sound.net> Hello everyone, I've been trying to get some of my photos scanned in color in JPG format to send to Alan so he might consider tucking them in on his site with all the "big boys" stuff. My idea was to show what a real amateur can do with a lot of work and really very little in the way of special tools or super detailed parts other than what's in the box or what I make from scratch. I hoped people coming to the site and being blown away by the fantastic models usually shown there might also see my (and I hope others) model A/C as workmanlike if inelegant, but within almost anyone's capability to duplicate. I gave a few if my color photos to my son to scan but he decided to scan and put them on his "private" web site so they would be easy to get to for everyone who wants to see them. Also, Alan won't have to worry about contaminating h-i-s site with them. http://home.unicom.net/~tgodfrey/dadspics/ww1planes.html The pictures are so clear I seem to see flaws I never noticed before, but still they look (generally) great to me. Please remember, all of these are right out of the box . . . in this case all Airfix models and all done in the past year. The R.E. 8 was the latest and I hope the best. I'd like to at least replace the figures and machine guns since the former are very unrealistic and out of scale and the latter are virtually a blob of plastic especially on the Camel. Best wishes to you all, Bob G. ___________________ RG-KC-US rgodfrey@sound.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 13:11:09 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi Subject: Re: Photo web site Message-ID: <2.2.32.19980219181109.0069dfbc@conted.swann.gatech.edu> Thanks for sharing your photos, Bob. I hope one day this really "real amateur" can get his act together and produce results as pleasing as yours. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:38:09 -0800 (PST) From: Patrick Padovan To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Pfalz DIII Photos Arrived Message-ID: Dear Fernando, you are welcome. I hope you find them useful: I didn't have access to a color copier, so that's why I made an extra copy of the cover and added notation about the camouflage. Let me know how the Pfalz turns out! Regards, Patrick ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Patrick Padovan Interlibrary Loan Associate Timberland Regional Library Voice: 360-943-5001 415 Airdustrial Way SW FAX: 360-586-6838 Olympia, WA 98501-5799 e-mail: ppadovan@timberland.lib.wa.us ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Wed, 18 Feb 1998, Fernando E. Lamas, M.D. wrote: > > > The photocopies arrived in today's mail. Thanks a lot for sending them. > > Fernando > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 13:46:25 -0500 (EST) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: Re: Photo web site Message-ID: <199802191846.NAA27477@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > I've been trying to get some of my photos scanned in color in JPG format to > send to Alan so he might consider tucking them in on his site with all the > "big boys" stuff. My idea was to show what a real amateur can do with a > lot of work and really very little in the way of special tools or super > detailed parts other than what's in the box or what I make from scratch. I > hoped people coming to the site and being blown away by the fantastic > models usually shown there might also see my (and I hope others) model A/C > as workmanlike if inelegant, but within almost anyone's capability to > duplicate. They look great - I'll snap a link to your page soon. -Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 13:47:39 EST From: ModelerAl@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <5f4761e9.34ec7e4d@aol.com> <<...how do you hide the crime?>> Have you tried typing correction fluid? Dries quickly, sands well, and works great for filling those infuriating pinholes. HTH, Al http://users.aol.com/modeleral ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:06:36 -0800 (PST) From: Patrick Padovan To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: Dear Steve: You'll probably get ten thousand replies, but what the hey, here's mine: I've been won over by c/a glue. (Zap-a-Gap green, to name brand names!) I was hesitant for a long time, but after having experiences such as yours, I decided to try it, and I won't be looking back. It fills gaps, dries relatively quickly, and responds well to wet sanding as long as you don't wait TOO long, and let it cure. About three-five minutes, and its ready to sand. But plan ahead, and don't leave it over-night, or longer, or it will cure so that its actually a lot harder than the plastic! Good luck! Patrick ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Patrick Padovan Interlibrary Loan Associate Timberland Regional Library Voice: 360-943-5001 415 Airdustrial Way SW FAX: 360-586-6838 Olympia, WA 98501-5799 e-mail: ppadovan@timberland.lib.wa.us ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 15:57:07 EST From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: SE5a engine query Message-ID: <5f7413f.34ec9ca5@aol.com> Hi Bob Per SE5 file E5750 -Austin Build -no engine ref. F5547 - Viper D6444 not listed - per British Military Aircraft Serials- Bruce Robertson D6401 thru 6700 - are Sopwith Camel numbers. Thanks' for the info on the #208 camel - forgot the Datafile. Same photo as A&A book. No bloodly serial number. Already work out the rest of the colors Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 16:06:14 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <6cc72746.34ec9ec9@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-19 14:01:35 EST, you write: << Dear Steve: You'll probably get ten thousand replies, but what the hey, here's mine: I've been won over by c/a glue. (Zap-a-Gap green, to name brand names!) I was hesitant for a long time, but after having experiences such as yours, I decided to try it, and I won't be looking back. It fills gaps, dries relatively quickly, and responds well to wet sanding as long as you don't wait TOO long, and let it cure. About three-five minutes, and its ready to sand. But plan ahead, and don't leave it over-night, or longer, or it will cure so that its actually a lot harder than the plastic! Good luck! Patrick >> Reply #10,001. c/a has won my heart also.Except for a few specialized things, I use c/a for eveything (model building I mean- I don't eat it or anything,..although....) Anyway, with Tenax and other solvent cements, I've found that seams continue to reappear because the dissolving action continues to happen for days and sometimes weeks, making the seam seem to cave in on itself. My only worry used to be that since c/a was a reletively new substance, I had questions about durability- was I going to wake up one night sometime in the future and hear a tremendous POPOPOININGG as everything I'd built suddenly fell apart?.But I've got things I built 15 years ago and so far the glue is holding.BTW, I've found that brand name drug store bought Krazy glue works better for gluing invisible thread and fishing line than Zap-a-Gap.It sets harder and has more raw holding power- which is good for me since my rigging is structural- if it fails,the model in question will assume strange shapes and invent for itself new geometries! Robert ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 16:07:13 EST From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: SE5a engine query Message-ID: Hi Bob D3444 = Viper Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 22:00:47 +0100 From: Pedro Nuno Soares To: "'ww1 modeling list'" Subject: Toko kits Message-ID: <01BD3D86.EADE6F80@fei1-p13.telepac.pt> Matt wrote If the same holds true with Toko as other manufacturers - and the first kits are the "worst" from the manufacturer - then the other kits by Toko are going to be out of this world. Matt, you should see the Pflaz engine.... These are really nice kits, May the power be with Toko Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 17:09:55 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Prime it/Hide it.....Hid it! Message-ID: <19980219.170956.9390.0.perrysm@juno.com> Thanks to one & all for the help on the seams. Sure enough, the welded plastic joint was still soft and so it sanded hollow. I ran a smidge of CA along the seam and it sanded smooth and primered up without a trace of seam. I'm a convert. Having modeled in a near vaccum for some time, all the good information available on this list is just outstanding. Thanks again Steve Perry _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 23:01:52 +0100 From: Pedro Nuno Soares To: "'ww1 modeling list'" Subject: Extracolor Message-ID: <01BD3D8B.06DF7C20@fei1-p13.telepac.pt> I've never used XTRACOLOR- how is it? I mean aside form color accuracy = or anything- how is it to use? Sprayability? hand brushing? drying time? = Opacity? Thanks Robert Hi Robert, This is very good stuff IMHO. All the paints are gloss (except for the = interior grey-green, I believe) so that you can do without gloss = spraying for decal application, they thin very well with White spirit - = guess you call it mineral spirits - and they cover very well too. I've use several of their paints with consistent good results. Last week = when I was lucky enough to go to hannants - which incidentally are = their manufacturers - I picked up what I thought was the entire WW1 line = - German Green, German Purple and German underside blue. I wasn't aware = that there was a CDL :-( and I was in a hurry so I just picked up the = numbers I had on my list and didn't bother to examine the rack in = detail... wish I had, though....=20 HTH Um abraco Pedro nl: Genesis - Foxtrot (you remember watcher of the skies, guys?)=20 nb. Won't tell you because since my last flopped effort (remember my = fish scale Roland?) I don't want to have to admit again that I've set = the mark to high. All I can tell you is that It has 1 wing and lots of = crappy PE struts that I will try to substitute with Contrail stock = struts. Body in 4 colour lozenge (the ones on the kit are the most = intriguing colours you ever seen, so I'm planning to use 4 color from = propagteam which look ok to me, and wings in green, stripes on tailplane = and ...oh heck it's the Eduard Fokker DVIII , in 1/72 of course...=20 So far I managed to get the fuselage finished. Now the fun is about to = begin.... BTW would the struts be painted in the same green of the wing or would = they be more like the grey-green on the inside framing?. Just another small note: I tried to replicate the lozenge on the inside = with artists pencils. I painted the interior in German field grey and = then made dots/lozenge/stains in with blue, brown, green pencils. Since = the cockpit looks quite crowded once the PE inside is set in you look = into the cockpit and what you get is a diffused impression of coloured = fabric on the walls and back panel that look quite ok to me. Guess that = this trick won't work in larger scales though. BTW, any of you done this one? are the decals usable without coating = with clear? If you done one, plese share with me ;-) Outro abraco Pedro =00=00 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 23:01:55 +0100 From: Pedro Nuno Soares To: "'ww1 modeling list'" Subject: RE: Toko SSW D.III/D.IV Message-ID: <01BD3D8B.789326A0@fei1-p13.telepac.pt> Matt, I have a few SSWs done. However the only naval one is a D.IV from MFJ 2 and has a white band on the fuselage. Regards, Bob Pearson Bob, would it be too much if..... :-) Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 15:26:32 -0800 From: "Chris Banyai-Riepl" To: "Multiple recipients of list" Subject: DH-4 Info Sought Message-ID: <01bd3d8d$cfc4b4a0$a04ffbce@chrisban> Hi y'all, I'm looking for a number. I know that this particular search isn't exactly WWI, but it is close. The plane does have two wings, after all. It's a DH-4 from the Border Air Patrol around 1919 or 1920. It's from the 20th Aero Squadron and has the name "Gladys G" on the nose. I also need to know what the emblem on the fuselage looks like. I have a picture of it that I can post if that would be of help. For those who are interested, this is related to an article on the Border Air Patrol that will be in the March issue of Aviation What-Not http://www.willapabay.org/~herper/aviation ). Now there's a great reason to visit the site! Chris .. ------------------------------------------ "Study men, not historians." Harry S. Truman (1884-1972), U.S. democratic politician, president. Quoted in: Robert H. Ferrell, Off the Record (1980). ------------------------------------------ Alga Computer Systems http://willapabay.org/~herper/ ------------------------------------------ Aviation What-Not http://www.willapabay.org/~herper/aviation ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:43:09 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <19980219.184319.4342.7.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:23:21 -0500 "Sandy Adam" writes: >ROTFL! (If I may borrow your phrase Matt - suppose it should be "rotfl" >since it'll be in teensy-weensy scale!) I'll remember that. However, on this list, since the majority are blind, we still have to capitalize it! :-) Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:56:03 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Extracolor Message-ID: <19980219.191034.4342.10.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:17:27 -0500 Pedro Nuno Soares writes: >nl: Genesis - Foxtrot (you remember watcher of the skies, guys?)=20 Great album. Once I "found" Genesis - post-Steve Howe (right name, isn't it?) - which was the _Duke_ album, this was my next purchase. There is only two Genesis that is in the same league; "Broadway" with Peter Gabriel, and the one after _Foxtrot_, _A Trick of the Tail_. Wonderful. I think I need to put my _A Trick of the Tail_ *album* on. Thanks, Pedro. Good luck with your D.VIII. :-) Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:42:21 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <19980219.184319.4342.6.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:41:45 -0500 GRBroman@aol.com writes: > Only when we're alone or with somebody :). As a general rule, > fabric texture would not be visible for two reasons. One, many > doped surfaces are quite smooth and two, most textured surfaces, > especially reduced to 1/72, really wouldn't be visible. Of > course, the decision to sand it or leave it is a personal one. > Of course, if you build lots and lots of Airfix and Emhar WW I > tanks, you don't have this problem, right Matt? :-) Exactly! However, with the Airfix, we're so busy putting the rivets back on we would long for filling in something. :-) Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:41:17 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <19980219.184319.4342.5.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:41:11 -0500 GRBroman@aol.com writes: > Okay, here's another one to try. DuPont Chromabase. Its a > liquid filer that can be sprayed on. It's premixed and ready to > spary.It fills gaps and low spots. Simply spray (or brush) it > on, wait 24 hours, and then sand. This stuff was demo'd at our > club meeting last Saturday. You can us multiple coats. Bob > demostrated on a *gaak* Me-110. The end result was very nice. > May be just the ticket for the old Niueport. I may just try this. However, when sanding the Nieuport (Glen, notice the spelling :-)) you are able to get the wings extremely, scale thin. Where does one obtain this? Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 899 *********************