WWI Digest 898 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by "Patrick Gilmore" 2) Re: CDL Preferences by "Patrick Gilmore" 3) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by "Vincent Price" 4) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 5) Priming fabric textures by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 6) Paint From The Tin by "Leonard Endy" 7) #208 Sqd-Camel by BStett3770@aol.com 8) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by KarrArt@aol.com 9) Pfalz DIII Photos Arrived by "Fernando E. Lamas, M.D." 10) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by KarrArt@aol.com 11) Re: #208 Sqd-Camel by Bob Pearson 12) Re: Priming fabric textures by Joey Valenciano 13) Re: #208 Sqd-Camel by Joey Valenciano 14) Re: #208 Sqd-Camel by Bob Pearson 15) Re: CDL Preferences by Alberto Rada 16) Re: Priming fabric textures by Ernest Thomas 17) Re: #208 Sqd-Camel by Ernest Thomas 18) SE5a engine query by Bob Pearson 19) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton 20) Re: Priming fabric textures by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 21) Re: Priming fabric textures by Ernest Thomas 22) Re: Paint From The Tin by Suvoroff@aol.com 23) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by "Sandy Adam" 24) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by "Sandy Adam" 25) Re: Priming fabric textures by "Sandy Adam" 26) Re: SE5a engine query by "Sandy Adam" 27) Turnbuckles by Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton 28) Re: Priming fabric textures by mbittner@juno.com 29) Prime it / Hide it by perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) 30) Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) by Ernest Thomas 31) Re: Priming fabric textures by Ernest Thomas ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 17:56:26 -0500 From: "Patrick Gilmore" To: Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <199802182258.RAA00196@sulaco.novagate.net> > > << I really like the XTRACOLOR CDL as well as their other WWI paints. > Patrick Gilmore >> > > I've never used XTRACOLOR- how is it? I mean aside form color accuracy or > anything- how is it to use? Sprayability? hand brushing? drying time? Opacity? > Thanks > Robert I find their paints to be very easy to thin and use with an airbrush. I have used Testors airbrush thinner for airbrushing, but the paints come quite thin and usually need little thinner. The only hand-brushing I have done with it was on a trio of 1/72 DRIs that I did for wargaming and these turned out very good but the paint took a very long time to dry. The paints in general seem to have a slightly long drying time but I think that is due to their being gloss. I have never had any trouble with coverage but I usually will paint over a light-grey or white primer. I personnaly cant speak much as to their accuracy, but the colors just "look right" to me. The WWI colors that I use from the line are: PC-10, CDL, German underside blue, German dark green and German Purple. In fact the only complaint I have of XTRACOLORS is that they come in small tins instead of bottles - is there anyway to neatly get the paint out of the tin without making a mess? Patrick Gilmore ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 17:59:29 -0500 From: "Patrick Gilmore" To: Subject: Re: CDL Preferences Message-ID: <199802182301.SAA00459@sulaco.novagate.net> > could someone suggest a good mail-order source for xtracolor paints? so > far i've struck out finding a shop here in s. houston that carries the > line... > > TIA, > > phillip I got mine through Roll Models website. I think the address is: www.rollmodels.com Be prepared to wait a while for the order as they are pretty slow (It took like four weeks to get my last order). Patrick Gilmore ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:58:02 +1100 From: "Vincent Price" To: Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <199802182315.KAA20300@sydney2.world.net> I almost exclusively use Xtracolor paint. I do not use an airbrush on WW1 subjects. Brush painting is excellent - I do recommend a small amount of thinner. Lighter colours tend to take a lot of coats to get good depth (up to 6). All colours are gloss and accept decals wonderfully - I have only had silvering, and that only slight, on one kit (Dragon DVII - horrible thick things!). The metallic colours, when compared to the Humbrol offerings, are not so good. Regards Vincent ---------- > From: KarrArt@aol.com > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) > Date: Thursday, 19 February 1998 4:36 > > In a message dated 98-02-18 12:18:48 EST, you write: > > << I really like the XTRACOLOR CDL as well as their other WWI paints. > Patrick Gilmore >> > > I've never used XTRACOLOR- how is it? I mean aside form color accuracy or > anything- how is it to use? Sprayability? hand brushing? drying time? Opacity? > Thanks > Robert ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 16:55:49 -0800 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <34EB8315.6F50@ricochet.net> > In fact the only complaint I have of XTRACOLORS is that they come in small tins instead of bottles - is there anyway to neatly get the paint out of the tin without making a mess? It's a trade off; the tins seal much better than bottles (I don't know how many bottles of paint I've opened to find dry when I thought they were sealed) and are a little more difficult to stir, but you don't have to worry about the contents drying out. The only way I know to get paint out of a tin w/o mess is a pipette. FWIW, Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 17:12:02 -0800 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <34EB86E2.2A84@ricochet.net> I've had some success with an alternative to sanding one's life away on old Airfix or Revell kits: prime the hell out of 'em. This is what we would do at the model shop I worked at when we had a resin part with aggravating little nicks & scratches on parts that couldn't easily be removed. Several liberal coats of primer have filled in the 'mesh' pattern on the Nie 17's wings, and also softened the slightly severe wing rib detail. Just don't lay it on too thick, or you'll get cracking and lose desired detail. I've heard of something called "Mr. Surfacer" a primer which is also a light filler. Might be just right for this application, but I hear it's quite expensive at around $10 US a can. Unfortunately, this technique is only applicable to munchkin scale, as something like an AMT DH4B would require actual dipping in a can of primer to make any difference! Someday, I'll buy an orbital sander so I can start that project :-). Oh, well... Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 01:13:41 GMT From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi Subject: Paint From The Tin Message-ID: <34ef86a3.2967576@legend.firstsaga.com> On Wed, 18 Feb 1998 20:01:05 -0500, you wrote: >> In fact the only complaint I >have of XTRACOLORS is that they come in small tins instead of bottles - >is there anyway to neatly get the paint out of the tin without making a >mess? > Never tried this but who knows... Take a toothpick lay it over the top of the open can and then pour with the paint coming out over the toothpick. Supposedly the paint will run down the toothpick and not the side of the can. Some tip I heard some years back. Len Endy lfendy@firstsaga.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 20:56:10 EST From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: #208 Sqd-Camel Message-ID: Hi Gang #208 Sqd converted a Camel to a two seater ( one big open tub ) with a Lewis gun in the rear. Claim to have flown it over the lines a number of times, before the powers that be made them convert it back to a single seater. Photo in Arms & Armor Press Vintage Aviation Fotofax- Sopwith Camel JM Bruce - Photo #20. My question- on the photo I can see no serial number, rudder seems to be over painted ? Any one know of any other photos ? I've checked the following with no luck: Sopwith Camel -King of Combat - Bowyer Camel File - Air Britain Sopwith Fighters - Vintage Warbirds #5 - Burce Have the darn thing ready for paint. just want to get it right. Keep Modeling Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 20:56:16 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <5192e733.34eb9142@aol.com> In a message dated 98-02-18 20:06:43 EST, you write: << It's a trade off; the tins seal much better than bottles (I don't know how many bottles of paint I've opened to find dry when I thought they were sealed) and are a little more difficult to stir, but you don't have to worry about the contents drying out. >> Wierd- I've had just the opposite- I can't get a Humbrol tin to seal. I've tried wiping around the lip.I've used gross pressure. For me, I know that if I open a tin of the stuff I'd better use it in a few days. On the other hand, I've got some bottled colors I opened 15 years ago and they're still good. Must be different climates! Robert ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 18:03:41 -0800 From: "Fernando E. Lamas, M.D." To: wwi Subject: Pfalz DIII Photos Arrived Message-ID: The photocopies arrived in today's mail. Thanks a lot for sending them. Fernando ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 21:06:08 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <2c578478.34eb9392@aol.com> Vincent and Patrick- thanks for the info about XTRACOLOR. Robert ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 18:46:07 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: #208 Sqd-Camel Message-ID: <02460745110591@KAIEN.COM> Barry, Unfortunately I don't recall where I saw it, but supposedly this was Draper's old aircraft. I just checked his autobiography "THE MAD MAJOR" and all he says is . . .. "It was soon after our arrival at Serny that we carried out a major modifiation on one of the Camels, which was, to say the least, a bit audacious. We converted it into a two-seater It was many years after that I learnt the Sopwith Company themselves produced one about the middle of 1918, which was used only for dual-control instruction at home, but our two-seater must have been the first ever. The idea was to have a gunner firing aft which meant a Camel with three machine guns; we hoped this might give the Jerry a bit of a shock At the time of this writing I have been in touch with one of the squadron old boys, Mr J A Ritchie, who wa sthe mechanic who carried out most of the work in connection with this conversion. In his letter he says that to make room for the gunner some of the cross bracing wires and ribs just had to be removed, and we spliced the longerons at this particular spot. It was also necessary to make a smaller petrol tank which was secured under the pilot's seat. No one in the saudron knew much about the technicalities of these things, but we did it and flew this Camel quite successfully. Richie tells me he also went up in it with Flt/Cdr Jordan. Sad to relate we never had the opportunity to try it out against the enemy. Just when we began to boast about our experiment some confounded staff officer turned up. reported it officially and we received orders to re-convert it back to its original state of a single-seat-fighter. The squadron was then completely under the orders of the new RAF, and how dare we show a bit of originality?" * It goes without saying that I have a profile of this aircraft for those wishing to view it. Regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: BStett3770@aol.com > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: #208 Sqd-Camel > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 20:59:23 -0500 > > Hi Gang > > #208 Sqd converted a Camel to a two seater ( one big open tub ) with a Lewis > gun > in the rear. Claim to have flown it over the lines a number of times, before > the powers that be made them convert it back to a single seater. > > Photo in Arms & Armor Press Vintage Aviation Fotofax- Sopwith Camel JM Bruce - > Photo #20. > > My question- on the photo I can see no serial number, rudder seems to be over > painted ? > > Any one know of any other photos ? > > I've checked the following with no luck: > > Sopwith Camel -King of Combat - Bowyer > Camel File - Air Britain > Sopwith Fighters - Vintage Warbirds #5 - Burce > > Have the darn thing ready for paint. just want to get it right. > > Keep Modeling > Barry > Rosemont Hobby > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:14:44 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980219111444.006f5460@philonline.com.ph> Hi all, >I've had some success with an alternative to sanding one's life away... This is still how I get rid of the mesh surface, although, admittedly, I rarely encounter projects that have it. What I do is I go over the surface with a permanent ink marker. When dry, I wet sand until the plastic shows. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:21:24 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: #208 Sqd-Camel Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980219112124.006f5460@philonline.com.ph> >It goes without saying that I have a profile of this aircraft for those >wishing to view it. I would! Interesting model project. Bob, is this one based on a photograph? ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 19:35:39 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: #208 Sqd-Camel Message-ID: <03353915410696@KAIEN.COM> Joey, The profile is on the way. I used the photo on pg9 in the Camel Datafile (No.26) as the basis. Bob ---------- > From: Joey Valenciano > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: #208 Sqd-Camel > Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 22:25:00 -0500 > > >It goes without saying that I have a profile of this aircraft for those > >wishing to view it. > > I would! Interesting model project. > > Bob, is this one based on a photograph? > > > ********************************************************************* > > Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, > joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist > tel. (632) 921-26-75 > Metro-Manila, Philippines > > "The more you know, the more you don't know." > > ********************************************************************* > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 23:58:32 -0400 From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: CDL Preferences Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980218235832.00f8b940@pop.true.net> Hi I get mine through Sopwith Hobbies in Miami SALUDOS Alberto At 06:05 PM 18-02-98 -0500, you wrote: >> could someone suggest a good mail-order source for xtracolor paints? so >> far i've struck out finding a shop here in s. houston that carries the >> line... >> >> TIA, >> >> phillip > >I got mine through Roll Models website. I think the address is: > >www.rollmodels.com > >Be prepared to wait a while for the order as they are pretty slow (It took >like four weeks to get my last order). > >Patrick Gilmore > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 21:57:24 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <34EBAD75.68E4@bellsouth.net> Michelle and Rory Goodwin wrote: > > I've had some success with an alternative to sanding one's life away on > old Airfix or Revell kits: prime the hell out of 'em. This is what we > would do at the model shop I worked at when we had a resin part with > aggravating little nicks & scratches on parts that couldn't easily be > removed. Several liberal coats of primer have filled in the 'mesh' > pattern on the Nie 17's wings, and also softened the slightly severe > wing rib detail. Just don't lay it on too thick, or you'll get cracking > and lose desired detail. > I've heard of something called "Mr. Surfacer" a primer which is also a > light filler. Might be just right for this application, but I hear it's > quite expensive at around $10 US a can. > Unfortunately, this technique is only applicable to munchkin scale, as > something like an AMT DH4B would require actual dipping in a can of > primer to make any difference! Someday, I'll buy an orbital sander so I > can start that project :-). > > Oh, well... > > Riordan So Rio, Is it a general practice of guys on this list to remove texured fabric finishes from models? E. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 22:01:08 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: #208 Sqd-Camel Message-ID: <34EBAE84.52B9@bellsouth.net> BStett3770@aol.com wrote: > > Hi Gang > > #208 Sqd converted a Camel to a two seater ( one big open tub ) with a Lewis > gun > in the rear. Claim to have flown it over the lines a number of times, before > the powers that be made them convert it back to a single seater. > > Photo in Arms & Armor Press Vintage Aviation Fotofax- Sopwith Camel JM Bruce - > Photo #20. > > My question- on the photo I can see no serial number, rudder seems to be over > painted ? > > Any one know of any other photos ? > > I've checked the following with no luck: > > Sopwith Camel -King of Combat - Bowyer > Camel File - Air Britain > Sopwith Fighters - Vintage Warbirds #5 - Burce > > Have the darn thing ready for paint. just want to get it right. > > Keep Modeling > Barry > Rosemont Hobby > > Barry, Sorry I can't help with the Camel. But I wanted to ask you if you're going to have any of those Blue Max Roland C-II kits in stock soon? Ernest ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 20:10:41 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: SE5a engine query Message-ID: <04104127610795@KAIEN.COM> Greetings all, I am working on some SE5a profiles for FMP and find I need to determine whether the engine is a Hisso or Viper in three of them. They are . . . D6444 E5750 F5547 Could someone with the SE5 File please check on these for me. TIA, Bob Pearson ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 17:05:24 -0800 From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton To: wwi Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <34EC7B04.6B1E@connectorsystems.co.nz> > I've never used XTRACOLOR- how is it? I mean aside form color accuracy or > anything- how is it to use? Sprayability? hand brushing? drying time? Opacity? > Thanks > Robert Damn good stuff IMO -sprays well and gets a great gloss finish. I use a lacquer thinners with it but lighter fluid works well. Brushes OK, but I think it's really a spraying enamel which brushes rather than a brushing enamel that sprays. The major hassle is that it takes a long time to dry - though it seems very sensitive to how well it is mixed and also to which colour you are using.. Their "sky" seems to be a particularly slow drying paint. Colours are good - though I always go for a scale reduction in intensity. The PC10 really seems best when a bit of the aforementioned sky is added, though I couldn't tell you exactly what proportions to use -I mix a bit of sky into the PC10 and keep adding until it looks right. Cheers Aidrian ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 20:48:58 -0800 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <34EBB9BA.2C0C@ricochet.net> Ernest Thomas wrote: > Is it a general practice of guys on this list to remove texured fabric > finishes from models? I can't speak for everyone, but it is a common trend as a fabric texture is barely discernable up close on real fabric-covered aircraft. It looks 'wrong' to have a rough surface on models even 1/6 scale & larger. Doesn't mean everyone has to remove it, though. It's a real pain in the ass, and even though I don't build for contests, its one of the few refinements I'll usually perform on old kits. R. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 23:37:04 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <34EBC500.18E9@bellsouth.net> Michelle and Rory Goodwin wrote: > a fabric texture > is barely discernable up close on real fabric-covered aircraft. It looks > 'wrong' to have a rough surface on models even 1/6 scale & larger. I hadn't considered this. I figured a couple coats of paint would eliminate most of it. And I also kinda figured someone went through a lot of trouble to produce this effect, so why waste it. But that logic doesn't really make a lick of sense when you consider the main objective of modeling. Now I just have to get around to building those old kits I have. BTW does anybody care to share their favorite method of making turn-buckles? I already know about hypo-needles. Any other neat tricks out there? Ernest ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 04:19:09 EST From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Paint From The Tin Message-ID: <3a5a61dd.34ebf90f@aol.com> A toothpick, (or other object like this, I usually use a paintbrush handle) works well. I always decant my Humbrol paints into glass bottles using this technique - I HATE those little tins. Mr. Goodwin complains of paints drying up in the bottle; have you tried keeping the bottles upside down when not in use? I have very little trouble with my enamels with this technique, though I can't say if it would work the same with water-based paints. These last as well as I could want on my modelling table, and new unopened tins or bottles are virtually immortal; I have opened Humbrol's tins over 15 years old and they are as good as new. Yours, James D. Gray ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:38:41 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <199802190953.JAA01816@beryl.sol.co.uk> > Wierd- I've had just the opposite- I can't get a Humbrol tin to seal. I've > tried wiping around the lip.I've used gross pressure. For me, I know that if I > open a tin of the stuff I'd better use it in a few days. On the other hand, > I've got some bottled colors I opened 15 years ago and they're still good. > Must be different climates! > Robert But it's not consistent! I've got Humbrol tins that do exactly the same, but others that seal perfectly! I've just binned a tin each of matt black and matt white and I've got a tin of Leather right now that I have a rubber band over to hold shut. Yet I've also got some tins from way back - like twenty years - of stuff that I use a spot of now and then (Napoleonic colours and stuff) - that is perfectly sealed and fresh as ever! I find Humbrol covers well, thins well, good range etc etc - my dislike though is the softness of the dry product. I find the slightest handling and you can ruin the job. So you have to spray a varnish coat at every intermediate stage. Since I rig before covering top wing and bottom underwing, this becomes tedious. I notice this particularly since I picked up a stack of Tamiya spray cans in a "Fire-Sale" over Christmas and use them for undercoats etc, I've just sprayed my Ambulance Jenny "US Insignia White". This paint is indestructible - you can handle it to your heart's content with no fears. Wish they did a CDL. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:26:03 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <199802190953.JAA01813@beryl.sol.co.uk> > > The only way I know to get paint out of a tin w/o mess is a pipette. > FWIW, > Riordan With three young children, I have a never-ending supply of ice-lolly sticks -which are ideal for mixing and measuring paint out of tinlets. I can't remeber the last ice-lolly I've seen in the 'States but the UK variety are flat straight-sided and about 4 - 5 inches long, made out of boxwood or somesuch. You get just the right amount on the stick to then drip into the spray bottle - also when you add the thinners, you can judge the thinness of the paint perfectly by the way it runs off the stick. Sounds like "Cookery Tips" doesn't it? Sandy BTW did anybody read my message about the Alb Dr1 - I thought there might have been some comment. Had probs with my SP, just wondered if some mail was lost? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:58:23 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <199802190953.JAA01826@beryl.sol.co.uk> > BTW does anybody care to share their favorite method of making > turn-buckles? I already know about hypo-needles. Any other neat tricks > out there? > > Ernest I think "favourite method" and "turnbuckles" are contradictions in terms. Personally I use a little paint to thicken the mono. If I'm feeling particularly feisty, I'll coat a little PVA glue and then paint it. I have tried heat-stretching some Slater's rodding and sliding this over mono before gluing but after all the effort, I didn't think the results were very good. Looked like bits of tubing on the wire! To the guys that actually model scale turnbuckles I take my hat off. How do they (you?) do it? Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:51:19 -0000 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: SE5a engine query Message-ID: <199802190953.JAA01819@beryl.sol.co.uk> > I am working on some SE5a profiles for FMP and find I need to determine > whether the engine is a Hisso or Viper in three of them. They are . . . > > D6444 > E5750 > F5547 Hi Bob The SE5 File doesn't list a D6444: goes from D6198 to next batch starting D6851. E5750 is one of a batch of 300 from Austin Motor Co but some of these have H-S and some Viper. E5750 only states "At 84Sqd by 12/11/18, still there 17/7/19" F5547 is a Viper. (41 Sqd "Y"). HTH Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 23:00:20 -0800 From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton To: wwi Subject: Turnbuckles Message-ID: <34ED2A04.34F8@connectorsystems.co.nz> For them that works in reasonable scales it could be worth looking in the model railway/railroad catalogues. Grandt Line come to mind as a supplier of bolt heads and turnbuckles in idiotically small sizes. Gotta admit I tend to suggest such things with a bit of PVA glue painted. Aidrian ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 04:45:41 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <19980219.051030.8966.2.mbittner@juno.com> On Wed, 18 Feb 1998 23:04:18 -0500 Ernest Thomas writes: >Is it a general practice of guys on this list to remove texured fabric >finishes from models? Definitely. Especially in 1/72nd. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 08:22:35 -0500 From: perrysm@juno.com (Steven M Perry) To: wwi Subject: Prime it / Hide it Message-ID: <19980219.082236.23102.0.perrysm@juno.com> Seams hate me! I'm currently working on a seam between the kit plastic and the Evergreen styrene I used to fill in a space. They were joined with Tennax 7 whatever. Many applications of both Squadron white putty and Mr. Surfacer 1000. Sand everything down to a mirror finish in between, hit it with spritz of primer and there's that dang seam again. I also tried to build up enough of a primer layer to hide it... like I said seams hate me! Any good advice on joining dissimilar plastics, what glue is best and how do you hide the crime? The particular irritant to which I refer is exactly in the center of the top surface of the upper wing of my 1:48 Camel. The cutout was large & square for an early model 1F1. I wanted to represent a later version with the smaller opening and rounded cutout. So to add insult to injury, (I'm good at that), I went wild with the cockpit detail before checking to see how badly the upper wing would cover it. Now I have one of the best cockpits that I've ever done made nearly invisible by a wing with a stubborn seam around a small cutout to show for 10 or so hours of modeling.. Some days I just shouldn't be allowed at the modeling bench without adult supervision. Steve Perry _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 08:26:34 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: XRTRACOLOR(was CDL Preferences) Message-ID: <34EC411A.59F3@bellsouth.net> Sandy Adam wrote: > BTW did anybody read my message about the Alb Dr1 - I thought there might > have been some comment. Had probs with my SP, just wondered if some mail > was lost? Sandy, I got it, just didn't have any thing to offer. E. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 08:31:48 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi Subject: Re: Priming fabric textures Message-ID: <34EC4254.BBD@bellsouth.net> Sandy Adam wrote: > > > BTW does anybody care to share their favorite method of making > > turn-buckles? I already know about hypo-needles. Any other neat tricks > > out there? > > > > Ernest > > I think "favourite method" and "turnbuckles" are contradictions in terms. > Personally I use a little paint to thicken the mono. If I'm feeling > particularly feisty, I'll coat a little PVA glue and then paint it. > I have tried heat-stretching some Slater's rodding and sliding this over > mono before gluing but after all the effort, I didn't think the results > were very good. Looked like bits of tubing on the wire! > > To the guys that actually model scale turnbuckles I take my hat off. How do > they (you?) do it? > > Sandy I've never done it yet, but am considering it for the next project. The Hypo-needle method is about the same as your stretched tubing method and you're right; it just looks like a tube on a wire. Thanks. Ernest ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 898 *********************