WWI Digest 1353 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Revell SPAD XIII by Suvoroff@aol.com 2) Re: Revell SPAD XIII by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 3) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by bucky@ptdprolog.net 4) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by Ernest Thomas 5) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by KarrArt@aol.com 6) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by Ernest Thomas 7) Re: Gothas by KarrArt@aol.com 8) The Joys of Watercolor Pencils by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 9) RE: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by "Diego Fernetti" 10) RE: First report of plastic under the tree by "Diego Fernetti" 11) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by "Sandy Adam" 12) Re: First report of plastic under the tree by Geoff Smith 13) Using Watercolor Pencils by mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) 14) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by "Steven M. Perry" 15) Re: Pfalz D XII by kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) 16) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by Ernest Thomas 17) Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report by Ernest Thomas 18) Re: Using Watercolor Pencils by "David R.L. Laws" 19) FW: watercolour pencils (was seams) by Shane Weier 20) CDR media by Allan Wright 21) Re: CDR media by Allan Wright 22) Atta Boys! by "Steven M. Perry" 23) Zeppelin-Staaken R.VI WAS Revell/Monogram Fokker D.VII WAS Christmas Wish List by "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" 24) Re: Pfalz D XII by SMS ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 12:54:19 EST From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Revell SPAD XIII Message-ID: Thanks for the info. I was thinking of buying a couple of these kits and working on them, especially in some French schemes. Yours, James D. Gray ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 13:21:46 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Revell SPAD XIII Message-ID: <19981227.132151.-844815.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sun, 27 Dec 1998 13:04:02 -0500 (EST) Suvoroff@aol.com writes: > Thanks for the info. I was thinking of buying a couple of these >kits and >working on them, especially in some French schemes. Oooo...my favorite subject... ;-) Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 16:52:17 -0500 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <3686AC11.47B48D4F@ptdprolog.net> E Keep up the progress reports. I just started this one and can use all the help I can get. I'm making the Blue Maus version. TIA Mike Muth Ernest Thomas wrote: > Howdy folks, > I just put together the main components(firewal/magazine, rudder > bar/support, and seat rail/rear former) for the cockpit and am happy to > report that they fit in the fus. like a glove. If the rest of the model > builds like this, life is good. > E. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 20:07:55 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <3686E7FB.34FA@bellsouth.net> bucky@ptdprolog.net wrote: > Keep up the progress reports. I just started this one and can use all > the help I can get. I'm making the Blue Maus version. Will do, though all I can report today is that Humbrol paint appears to stick to the plastic with no problem. :) I'm using the Glenco 'Voss' decals on mine btw. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:37:19 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: In a message dated 12/27/98 2:41:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, bucky@ptdprolog.net writes: << E Keep up the progress reports. I just started this one and can use all the help I can get.......... TIA Mike Muth >> Yeah, keep us informed. So far, it looks like the most difficult part may be picking the color scheme! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:16:38 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <3686F816.6D04@bellsouth.net> KarrArt@aol.com wrote: > Yeah, keep us informed. So far, it looks like the most difficult part may be > picking the color scheme! > Robert K. I can also say at this point that the plastic needs to be thinned around the opening for the engine and the guns. Now please keep in mind that I'm building this as my main entry for the IPMS Nationals. So I'll most likely be adding a few bits here and there. So far, I'm planing on adding a few wires inside the cockpit and some valve springs to the engine. That could be expanded to include better spark wires, but I'm still undecided. But eveything else should be out the box. Now matter what, I'll inform the list of any 'surprises' I may come across. So would anyone have a scan of a D-III cockpit they could send me? Anything besides the sketches from the Scale a/c drawings book? tia. E. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 22:23:48 EST From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Gothas Message-ID: <70828735.3686f9c4@aol.com> <<<< KarrArt@aol.com wrote: > > I've got a few pieces of the article including the drawings. I also have an > enlarged set of just the drawings I ordered a long time ago. When doing my > infamous model, I used both these and the DataFile- each has a few advantages > over the other. The Woodman drawings(or was it the Stair? It's been so long > now I forgot) had some geometric impossibilities that couldn't be reconciled > with known dimensions without seriously distorting parts of the airplane. O.K., so I should have said in some ways superior to the datafile drawings...they seem to show certain details not depicted by Stair, such as angle of wing incidence, lower wing fillets, nacelle detail (?) etc >> A bit of snip snip and tuck tuck..... > Anyway, the main contours can be reshaped easily, the fuselage nose > is a little skinny, wheels need replacing, as does most detail, but none of > this is difficult. The most tedious correction would be the wings- much > thinner trailing edges, ribs tweaked to point more in the direction of flight, > minor outline work, etched markings removed. BUT, it can be done. What about the bloody engine nacelles? I still haven't figured out how to deal with them short of scratching new ones... > The kit is of the G V with the suspended engines, and the kit has enough lumps in its > gravy to get the job done right. Work with this kit, love this kit, treat it with patience and reverence and it will repay you! > Robert K. I'm compelled to deferr judgement to Robert. But in FSM terms, this is what's known as a 'siege' project. Don't try this at home unless you truly realize what you're letting yourself in for, and plan on being at it for a long time. FWIW, Riordan>> The reletives have left, the turkey is an abstract sculpture and now all is calm enough to dig a little bit into Mr. Aurora Gotha. A few minutes ago, I dug out the kit and the Datafile and the Woodman drawings. Horrible memories came flooding back (that's another story though) My previous posting was based on memory, but now I shall work with the objects at hand! I thought I had remembered the wing ribs being angled wrogly, instead, I was. The ribs DO come back from the leading edges perpendicular to the edges rather than the line of flight- the kit is correct. Much of the fuselage needs minor tweaking here and there to get all the shapes. The Datafile is sufficient, though the Woodman work had better detail.The major componenet errors reside in the horizontal tail surfaces and the engine nacelles: The stabilizer and elevator outline isn't too bad, if a tiny bit undersized, but the molded-in rib detail is completely wrong- not a thing about it is right. This could all be removed and new detail put in, but it would probably be easier to scratchbuild from clean sheet plastic- not all that hard to do, and maybe take an extra hour or two. The nacelles ARE pretty bad- some areas need to be shrunk, and some areas need to be expanded. The good news is that on the kit, the distance from the upper nacelle lip to the engine centerline is right on the money, as is the overall length. This gives a pretty good "armature" upon which to build up the corrections. Speaking ( well, ok, to be precise, writing) purely about how I would do the job, I would take the kit parts and build up the sides and bottem with wood, to be carved down and reshaped for the profile view. The assembled kit parts are too narrow in the top view, and profile wise, the bottem shouldn't slant upwards towards the rear, but rather should be level across the bottem from front to back. Do this twice, once for each nacelle, or do it once and vac. I guess this does sorta qualify as scratch building, but the basic kit parts will provide a solid basis from which to extract accuracy. The engines are very basic, being very little more than round top tubes in a row, but the good news is that the cylinders are sized and spaced quite accurately, and if an after-market engine isn't used, the kit pieces can still have a heap o' detail splashed on 'em. Don't get me wrong, a lot of work is gonna go into this thing, but nothing is particularly difficult skill-wise, just a little time consuming. The FSM article from sometime back was ok, but it didn't go nearly far enough. The main thing that makes the kit worthwhile, as opposed to completely scratchbuilding, is that basic major component parts are supplied- you get some ok fuselage shells and wings. And they don't have to be cut out of plastic sheet! Look at the kit as a kind of pre-cut vac-form, and you get an idea about the amount of work involved. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:31:31 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: The Joys of Watercolor Pencils Message-ID: <19981227.213132.-825251.0.mbittner@juno.com> Just wanted to thank the list for showing my the light of watercolor pencils. I'm highlighting/shading the Temeks MoS Type I now, and they work so wonderfully!! They really are easy to use, and enhance how model "fabric" looks. Just too awesome... Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:42:23 -0200 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <010d01be3246$630dc960$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> -----Mensaje original----- De: Ernest Thomas Para: Multiple recipients of list Fecha: Lunes 28 de Diciembre de 1998 1:19 AM Asunto: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report >So would anyone have a scan of a D-III cockpit they could send me? >Anything besides the sketches from the Scale a/c drawings book? >tia. >E. > Ernest: I have done a drawing of a DIII cockpit, but I've just scanned the left half. If you want I can send it to you off list. Give me a couple of days to look for the right half, that appears to be missing. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:53:05 -0200 From: "Diego Fernetti" To: Subject: RE: First report of plastic under the tree Message-ID: <011201be3247$de8cf880$4640a8c0@prens-001.ssp.salud.rosario.gov.ar> I had two Xmas presents about modelling concerns: A book about american airplanes in WW2 (with great cut-out drawings in it) and a slight off topic 1/48 Lindberg Hawker Fury Mk1. As a matter of fact, do anyone know if the cockpit of this elegant machine looked like a Hurricane cockpit? What was its interior color when the exterior were silver doped? Sorry for too many off topic questions. The rest of the presents were clothing. But no high-collar tunics, no pickelhaubes, no breeches. Only boring Tshirts and blue jeans ;-) D. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:17:44 -0800 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <199812281115.LAA23103@beryl.sol.co.uk> > I'm using the Glenco 'Voss' decals on mine btw. > E. >From memory, was that not an offset wing radiator job? Sandy PS maybe I've picked this up wrong and you're building the Profi. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:21:57 +0000 From: Geoff Smith To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: First report of plastic under the tree Message-ID: <368769D5.93F64739@cwcom.net> Diego Fernetti wrote: > I had two Xmas presents about modelling concerns: A book about american > airplanes in WW2 (with great cut-out drawings in it) and a slight off topic > 1/48 Lindberg Hawker Fury Mk1. As a matter of fact, do anyone know if the > cockpit of this elegant machine looked like a Hurricane cockpit? > What was its interior color when the exterior were silver doped? Sorry for > too many off topic questions. > The rest of the presents were clothing. But no high-collar tunics, no > pickelhaubes, no breeches. Only boring Tshirts and blue jeans ;-) > D. A couple of months (years?) ago, one of the mags had an article by H.W. I'm just being dragged to the shops by wife & kids but when I return, I'll look it up & do something unmentionable on this list with it for you. Regards, Geoff ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 05:19:09 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com (Matthew E Bittner) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Using Watercolor Pencils Message-ID: <19981228.052140.-845465.1.mbittner@juno.com> Fernando wanted me to expand on my earlier thread, and tell how I used the watercolor pencils. Since I thought this could benefit a lot of people, I decided to write it to the list. The majority of the pencils I use (they're not mine, I'm borrowing them from my wife ;-)) are made by Staedtler. I have so far used two colors from that brand, and another I picked up at the local art store - that one is by Rexel Derwent. Its color is "Burnt Yellow Ochre", and the two Staedtler colors are not labeled, but numbered: #1, which is a lemon-yellow; and #73, which is like a "burnt umber". My first technique was on the fuselage, to bring out the fabric. I used the "Burnt Yellow Ochre" (hereafter BYO) in the "crevices" of the fabric, while I used #1 on the extruding portions. That way I had a darker color in the "crevices" and a lighter on the "higher" parts. Once I colored in these areas (and that's basically what I did - colored in just like in the days of youth) I took a stiff brush (not too stiff), stuck it in water, then blotted the brush on a paper towel to remove most of the water. You want the brush wet, but definitely not dripping. I then lightly brushed over the colored areas, at first not touching each color together, and then going over the whole area to blend it in. I did this five or six times, until I achieved satisfactory results. The wings were entirely different. Since the Type I had batten over the ribs, I used the BYO on each side of the batten and then ran the brush over that. Then I used the #1 between the ribs, brushed that, put # 73 on each batten (since these were wood) and brush that, blending it all together. Once dry, I went back over the batten to be sure it had a good solid #73 color. The colors I used on the model: Polly Scale #505312 Germ RLM 69 Lt. Tan (~33695) for the CDL areas, and Polly Scale #505210 Old Concrete (30318) for the metal areas (forward fuselage, cowl, spinner, struts). The Old Concrete is a close match to the color Rimell has on the back of the MoS Datafile, and it looks good (part of what really matters most ;-)). I hope this helps somebody. It's not difficult at all, just finding the right colors is the hardest part - hence me buying the extra Rexel Derwent pencil. Matt Bittner nb: Last weathering on the Temeks MoS Type I before glossing and decaling nu: Finish the off-topic model I'm building for review sitnf: Flashback 1.A2 Strutter fdtr: Finish up the Nie.16 and Pegasus Roland D.II...gads... ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 06:56:07 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19981228065607.00997fcc@pop.mindspring.com> At 06:15 AM 12/28/98 -0500, you wrote: >> I'm using the Glenco 'Voss' decals on mine btw. >> E. >>From memory, was that not an offset wing radiator job? >Sandy >PS maybe I've picked this up wrong and you're building the Profi. > The Glencoe marking guide shows it as a center mount. The marking guide on the Smer instruction sheet shows an offset mount. The serial was overpainted and may not have been recorded. I recall some additional data favoring the center radiator position, I'll dig for it this evening. sp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:27:37 -0500 From: kevinkim@interlog.com (Kevin & Kimberley) To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pfalz D XII Message-ID: Steve asks: >I am in the process of building the Blue Max DXII, using one of the kit >decal schemes. >I am confused about the turquoise underside color with rgard to the >underside of the >wings. Were they lozenge fabric? Were they overpainted turquoise? >Should I do the PBS >painting class theory and paint "my" wings any color I want? Steve, Since I'm just finishing my Pfalz D.XII, and wound up doing a fair bit of research on it, I can answer your question. Apply lozenge decal to the bottom of your lower wing (and rib tape it if you want to) and then apply a thin coat of light blue paint over the decal. I brush painted mine with acrylic paint. The paint I used was so translucent, I even applied three coats and you can still see the lozenge patern through it. This is the right effect given the one photo I've seen of the underside of a Pfalz lower wing (Profile 199, page 5 - also reproduced, over exposed, in the Datafile). Apply the edging tapes after painting the blue colour. I believe that this light blue was only applied to the underside of the bottom wing. I left the underside of my top wing in lozenge. HTH, Kevin Barrett. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 06:23:31 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <36877843.7374@bellsouth.net> Diego Fernetti wrote: > I have done a drawing of a DIII cockpit, but I've just scanned the left > half. If you want I can send it to you off list. Give me a couple of days to > look for the right half, that appears to be missing. I'll take it, thanks. E. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 06:45:15 -0600 From: Ernest Thomas To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Eduard Albatross D-III build report Message-ID: <36877D5B.743D@bellsouth.net> Sandy Adam wrote: > >From memory, was that not an offset wing radiator job? > Sandy > PS maybe I've picked this up wrong and you're building the Profi. Hey FP, This came up on list a few weeks(or months) back, and iirc, it was verified(by Legs Pearson, I think) as being a center mount job. But if you have evidence of it being off-set, KEEP IT TO YOURSELF!;) I'm trying to keep this simple. Thanks, E. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 23:18:49 +1000 From: "David R.L. Laws" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Using Watercolor Pencils Message-ID: <3684E22F.7394@webtime.com.au> Matt, Nice explanation on the use of water-colour pencils Thanks david ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 00:27:55 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi'" Subject: FW: watercolour pencils (was seams) Message-ID: Hello all, Just looking in briefly at midnight to make sure you're all behaving yourselves and I see Matt giving an excellent description of his watercolour pencil technique. I thought that since there are many new list members since I first posted about watercolour pencils in May, it might be worth reposting that email to show some of the versatility of the medium. As Matt mentions (and it bugs me when he's right ;-) , they can be very useful Shane -----Original Message----- From: Shane Weier [mailto:SDW@qld.mim.com.au] Sent: Wednesday, 27 May 1998 12:46 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: watercolour pencils (was seams) Matt asks, in reply to my blathering: >> Watercolour pencils OTOH are *the*biggest new technique I've >>developed in 10 years. Try an Indian Red pencil and Kleer/Future/Stride >>to make an excellent propellor varnish. >I'm intrigued. Please explain. Okay, though I'll add a bit to show how useful these things are, and why I'm pleased to have them in my arsenal. The watercolour pencils I use are made by Faber-Castell, a German company, but are available from Winsor and Newton and others. Essentially they are solid watercolour in a normal coloured pencil form BUT when you wet the tip, or the marks you've made the pigment is transformed to watercolour paint. I'd better illustrate by example. I absolutely detest painting the props on aircraft becasue they are hard to mask well in the narrow bands needed to make convincing laminations and my hand is way too shaky to paint without masking. However, I usually eventually get something serviceable, at which point I've often looked at the result and said "not red/warm/brown enough" and cursed mightilly. Solution is to rub a little watercolour pencil Indian Red/ Sienna / Umber / whatever colour takes your fancy, onto a piece of wet and dry, add a drop or two of Future and mix with a watercolour brush. By using more or less Future you produce a "varnish" which can be varied from a full on colour to a slight tint, and applied in layers to get *just* the right effect. I routinely do this now since the layering allows me to make the changes using even my shaky hand painting technique because no one layer will wreck your work. Incidentally, I have also got, and use the best quality watercolours (in tubes) but these don't necessarily work as well since the medium doesn't seem to mix as well with the Future, and seems to affect drying time so things stay tacky for hours. Another example. I needed to paint the brass tip reinforcements on the prop for the MPM W.29, but hate the look of every "brass" paint I ever tried. Solution - I painted the tips with aluminium plate paint then ran a Paynes Grey pencil around the brass/wood intersection. With a *damp* brush I removed the bits where my hands had shaken and feathered the edge nearer the wood to leave a nice sharp demarkation on the brass side grading rapidly to the wood on the other side. I then sprayed with a light, thin coat of enamel based clear varnish to set the watercolour . At this point I mixed yellow ochre pencil and Future, fairly thinly, and built up a nice brass finish with a few coats over the aluminium. Finish with another coat of enamel based varnish. Last example They can be used to highlight seams, add wrinkles in fabric, highlight ribs etc. etc just by using as a pencil, and refined, feathered, blended, removed using a damp to wet brush. If it all ends up looking like crap, a damp cloth removes the lot. If it turns out fine, a coat of your favourite enamel varnish will fix the work. Great things. Just another technique, but worth a go, and if they work for you.... Regards Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:59:11 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: CDR media Message-ID: <199812281559.KAA12520@pease1.sr.unh.edu> https://www.cdrexpress.com/ =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:12:39 -0500 (EST) From: Allan Wright To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: CDR media Message-ID: <199812281612.LAA12604@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > https://www.cdrexpress.com/ Sorry for that post - was meant to go to someone else....... =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:22:06 -0500 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Atta Boys! Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19981228122206.0068b948@pop.mindspring.com> I just received a recent order from Barry of Rosemont Hobbies. Part of which was the Roseparts landing gear for the Morane Saulnier. This is an exquisitely fine casting of some very thin pieces. Barry, you sir are the "Cast Master". This is an outstanding aftermarker product. Matt, your masters for this must be a sight to behold. Extremely fine work, just beautiful. 1000% improvement over the kit parts. Thanks to both of you fine gentlemen for sharing your talent and craftsmanship, both of the highest order. sp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:19:08 -0600 From: "Dr. Phillip Anz-Meador" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: Zeppelin-Staaken R.VI WAS Revell/Monogram Fokker D.VII WAS Christmas Wish List Message-ID: <01BE3253.E45FA3A0.panz-meador@vsti.com> david, dennis, and others: don't know if you've followed this thread since the summertime when i instigated it, but the british firm of Aircraft in Miniature (AIM) is considering re-issueing the old Contrail Z-S R.VI with same vac-form pieces but new resin/metal accessories (replacing the original injection-molded pieces). Scale is 1:72. I suggest once more that folks interested in this development should contact the director of AIM, Mr. Neil Gaunt, at: neilgaunt@yahoo.com or neil@aim72.co.uk to lobby for such a re-issue. phillip -----Original Message----- From: Veronica Ugulano [SMTP:Uggies@compuserve.com] Sent: Saturday, December 26, 1998 11:39 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Revell/Monogram Fokker D.VII WAS Christmas Wish List >> Heck, I am hoping for a Pro Modeller Zeppelin Staaken RVI ! << That will be the day. In 1/72 scale of course, right? Dennis Ugulano email: Uggies@compuserve.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:35:31 -0600 From: SMS To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Subject: Re: Pfalz D XII Message-ID: <3687C161.FB84DBFD@netins.net> Kevin & Kimberley wrote: SNIP > acrylic paint. The paint I used was so translucent, I even applied three > coats and you can still see the lozenge patern through it. This is the > right effect given the one photo I've seen of the underside of a Pfalz > lower wing (Profile 199, page 5 - also reproduced, over exposed, in the > Datafile). Apply the edging tapes after painting the blue colour. > > I believe that this light blue was only applied to the underside of the > bottom wing. I left the underside of my top wing in lozenge. > > HTH, > > Kevin Barrett. Thanks, I'll try it. Steve ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1353 **********************