WWI Digest 1226 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: New Roseparts by mbittner@juno.com 2) E. J. Bullard's aircraft by mgoodwin@ricochet.net 3) Re: Airbrushes by John & Allison Cyganowski 4) ET IS OK by Mike Dicianna 5) Re: Airbrushes by "Lee Mensinger" 6) Re: Airbrushes by KarrArt@aol.com 7) Re: E. J. Bullard's aircraft by "Jim Elkins" 8) RE: E. J. Bullard's aircraft by Shane Weier 9) RE: E. J. Bullard's aircraft by Shane Weier 10) Re: Airbrushes by John Huggins 11) RE: Airbrushes by "Reid Sweatman" 12) RE: Airbrushes by "Reid Sweatman" 13) Book Found on the net by Graham Nash 14) Another Rare book on the net by Graham Nash 15) Re: Airbrushes by "Sandy Adam" 16) Re: E. J. Bullard's aircraft by bucky@ptdprolog.net 17) Airbrushes by Mike Dicianna 18) Re: Airbrushes by "Paul Schwartzkopf" 19) Re: Airbrushes by "Steven M. Perry" 20) Ventilation by "Steven M. Perry" 21) Tank parts by GRBroman@aol.com 22) Re: New List member by Franco Poloni 23) Re: Airbrushes by KarrArt@aol.com 24) Re: Airbrushes by KarrArt@aol.com 25) Re: Airbrushes by KarrArt@aol.com 26) Re: Airbrushes by The Shannons 27) Re: Airbrushes by "Jim Lyzun" 28) Re: Airbrushes by Mike Fletcher ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 19:29:49 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: New Roseparts Message-ID: <19980928.192950.-457709.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Mon, 28 Sep 1998 20:01:37 -0400 BStett3770@aol.com writes: >Plus 5 new 1/72 detail parts I have a set of his new Lewis guns (for all those ongoing Nieuports, of course :-)) and these are wonderful. He has improved his process 150%!! Well worth it! Note, I have no connection to Rosemont, just an extremely happy customer. ;-) Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 17:54:57 -0700 From: mgoodwin@ricochet.net To: wwi Subject: E. J. Bullard's aircraft Message-ID: <36102FD5.4664@ricochet.net> I'm currently reading Carisella & Ryan's bio of Bullard, the 1st black fighter pilot. He served with Spa. 93 and apparently flew an "all blue" S.VII and similarly finished Nie. 24 or 27 with personal motto "ALL BLOOD RUNS RED". Any articles on him in past Windsock's Foreign Legion of the Air series or other info? Cheers, Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 21:18:29 -0400 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <36103513.20C3@worldnet.att.net> I am not going to make a recommendation since I have a "love-hate" relationship with my airbrushes....I love to hate them. I have had (or been had by): 1.) Humbrol Spray Gun 2.) Badger 200 3.) Testors Aztek Of the three I liked the Badger the least. The Humbrol was pretty bad but it had the virtue of being cheap, i.e. it cost me very little to screw up a model. In general I have to say that I hate painting most of any modeling activity. (I am writing this diatribe instead of painting my Albatros.) My complaint with the Badger is that it is fairly complicated - Different heads, different needles and a lot of gaskets. After spending a lot of money for this brush and getting mediocre performence for years, I made another major investment in it and replaced all the little teflon gaskets and bought new heads and needles. The result was that I finally succeeded in coaxing one nice paint job out of it (a Ju-88 in splinter camo). Then all the teflon gaskets apparently took their set and the brush started leaking like a sieve and it was business as usual. I bought the Aztek this past spring for my birthday. For the price I paid, I could have gotten a leather clad woman to walk on my bare chest in her high heels, but I am not that deeply into my mid-life crisis yet. I must say that the Aztek works pretty well. Mine came with several spray heads - these come with their own integral needles. You just pick the one you want, install it and you're ready. The one I have is a double action and this is new for me. Someone pointed out that it is plastic. I have never had any more problems with paint build-up than I had with the Badger, probably fewer. However, it is very light and this takes some getting use to after a metal brush. The Aztek will also sit on a table with out tipping over every 5 seconds, un-like the Badger. They make a special acrylic spray head that does improve the performence with Polly (sold separetly of course). Mine came with a cleaning station. This is pretty nice. I still find it necessary to manually clean the spray heads but they come apart and reassemble easily. The brush also comes with a wrench/cleaning tool. This tool can be used to reach the internals of the brush with out damage. The moral of this story is that the brush that works best for me is also the one for which I paid the most money. Cyg. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 18:39:17 +0000 From: Mike Dicianna To: wwi Subject: ET IS OK Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19980928183917.006966d4@dnc.net> Just got a note from Ernest Thomas. He said they had to evacuate (mandatory) but when he got home there was no damage. He expected to find his new home under six feet of flood water. He lives only a short distance from New Orleans proper. Passing on his thanks for all of your positive thoughts!!! Mikedc "Der Rote Modellflugzeugbauer" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 20:58:29 -0500 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <36103EC5.E70E2BE8@wireweb.net> mbittner@juno.com wrote: > I have been using Thayer and Chandler since I started > airbrushing. My first T&C was a single action type that I still > use occasionally. My new one is a Vega 2000, and I enjoy it > alot. Double action, with three separate tips, etc. > > If it wasn't T&C, I would use Iwata. I have heard nothing but > good things about Iwata for a couple of months now. > > However, be aware these airbrushes are more for the "artist > types", so can be a bit more expensive (the original retail for > the Vega 2000 was US$120). > > If you want a real thin line, I'm not sure of the maker, but > there is an airbrush that will get down to 1/64th of an inch. A > friend in Des Moines used it to paint the "squiggle" camoflauge > on a 1/72nd German Hetzer. Amazing! However, this too is > expensive costing upwards to US$300 or so. > > One thing I didn't like about the Testors. They're "plastic". > Sure, a "better type" of plastic, but still. With my T&C > stainless steel airbrush, I have no worries about paint crudding > up. Heck, I can clean it all out with Murphy's Oil Soap with no > problems. :-) > > Matt Bittner Matt I think you have hit the core of the airbrush mess. The T&C is one of the better brands and it ain't free. The cheaper the brush,usually the poorer the result. About the least expensive good Airbrush is the Paasche type H, which uses three seperate heads and needle assemblies for density of coverage and variability. Heads are # 1,#3 and #5 with 5 being capable of spray painting a 1/48th HP400 with ease. It is easy enough to own several heads if you are concerned about paint color change contamination. Simply take out the present one and install a fresh one putting the first in a container of thinner or cleaner. Heads are inexpensive enough that it would not be to big a deal to have several. I have more than one airbrush and the least expensive is the H model and I have been using it since 1962 without ever replacing any "O" rings or washers. Have always cleaned it with thinner and replacement parts are available at a reasonable price if required. As a first airbrush I can not recommend any more highly than the "H" model by Paasche. Even if you buy another unit later on. You will most likely keep the H. I have three units and speak from experience. After 36 years I still use it at least as much as any other. If I were to change to a newer or different airbrush brand I think I might try the IWATA. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 21:52:43 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <230f8a2a.36103d6b@aol.com> I've used Paasche for 25 years- my first was a single action (can't remember model numbers worth beans), my "new"one is a double action about10-11 years old. Any gaskets, packing, rings etc. are long gone- just melted away. The only real problem is a buildup deep in the guts in the double action. A couple of times a year I just soak the whole mess in a jar of laq thinner. I use the old single action for spraying heavy duty stuff like gesso- a conglomeration of acrylic medium, pigment and plaster. I adapted a mayonnaise jar to serve as a "color cup". I prime masonite panels for paintings with this. If the humidity is too high or too low, I might tie a rubber band around the nozzle- body joint to get little more "umph". I've dropped them on their points, flung 'em against a wall- you name the abuse and I've heaped it upon these poor pieces of machinery. So far after hundreds of paintings and countless models, they still serve me well. They've outlasted 4 compressors. A friend gave me a Bader double action. I don't like it- not because of any fault of the brush itself, but because it fits my hand kinda funny.I'm left handed and the Paasche right hand brushes feel better than anything I've tried- including models made for lefties. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 21:25:11 -0500 From: "Jim Elkins" To: Subject: Re: E. J. Bullard's aircraft Message-ID: <01bdeb50$626773e0$c137a497@default> >I'm currently reading Carisella & Ryan's bio of Bullard, the 1st black >fighter pilot. He served with Spa. 93 and apparently flew an "all blue" >S.VII and similarly finished Nie. 24 or 27 with personal motto "ALL >BLOOD RUNS RED". Any articles on him in past Windsock's Foreign Legion >of the Air series or other info? Rory, I have v.9 n.4 OTF WINTER 1994 with the article (and cover painting) The Black Icharus: Eugene Bullard in the Dawn of Military Aviation by Jamie Cockfield. I'll be happy to send it along. Photos, story and info on a permanent display of items at the History of Aviation Museum Warner Robbins, GA. JIM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 13:24:00 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: E. J. Bullard's aircraft Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Jim Elkins [mailto:jimelk@swbell.net] Sent: Tuesday, 29 September 1998 12:34 To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: E. J. Bullard's aircraft >I'm currently reading Carisella & Ryan's bio of Bullard, the 1st black >fighter pilot. He served with Spa. 93 and apparently flew an "all blue" >S.VII and similarly finished Nie. 24 or 27 with personal motto "ALL >BLOOD RUNS RED". Any articles on him in past Windsock's Foreign Legion >of the Air series or other info? Rory, I have v.9 n.4 OTF WINTER 1994 with the article (and cover painting) The Black Icharus: Eugene Bullard in the Dawn of Military Aviation by Jamie Cockfield. I'll be happy to send it along. Photos, story and info on a permanent display of items at the History of Aviation Museum Warner Robbins, GA. JIM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 13:38:48 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: E. J. Bullard's aircraft Message-ID: Rory, >I'm currently reading Carisella & Ryan's bio of Bullard, the 1st black >fighter pilot. He served with Spa. 93 and apparently flew an "all blue" >S.VII and similarly finished Nie. 24 or 27 with personal motto "ALL >BLOOD RUNS RED". Any articles on him in past Windsock's Foreign Legion >of the Air series or other info? Covered at length with colour profile in Windsock May/June 91 (Bullard is, but i can't recall *what* aircraft is profiled) Regards Shane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 22:57:23 -0500 From: John Huggins To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: A bit of background first. I use the basic formula for mixing paints. The basic part is to add enough thinner to get the paint to the consistency of milk. Some paints require more thinner than others. Next, never mix the thinner in the main bottle. I mix the thinner and paint in the color cup by blocking the tip and using the back flow of air to mix the two. Also, never pour the thinned paint back into the main bottle. You will find that the paints last longer this way. Any unused thinned paint goes in the trash. Next, I always break the brush down and clean the insides out completely between any color changes. On this subject, with an internal mix brush, remove the tip and pull the needle out from the front. This prevents paint from being pulled back into the inner workings of the brush. When you put the needle back in, push it in from the back. Again reducing the possibility of paint getting into the inner workings. I always use a compressor with a regulator on it. This holds true for the diaphragm types and the tank types as well. I adjust it to about 22 psi for most of the painting. Now for the brushes. I first used with the very cheap Binks and other brands of beginners brushes. I do not recommend these to anyone as they are nothing more than refillable spray cans. Not much control or adjustments here. I then switched to a Paasche H. A basic external mix brush. I found out early on that with the types of paint we use, it really does not make much difference which needle/tip you use. There is not enough difference between the fine and medium tips. My next brush which I used for about 20 years was a Paasche VL (internal mix/double action). I then got a Badger 200 then a Badger 100IL(internal mix/double action gravity feed). I also have one of the Testors high end brushes. The Paasche VL served me very well for a number of years. The only suggestion here is to keep it spotless, as they do not tolerate left over materials in side the tips. About 12 years ago, I tried the badger brushes. At first, I was not too happy with them, but as I used them more, I learned how they worked and became quite happy with the results. I switched to the IL about 8 years ago, and it is now the primary tool. It is light weight, produces acceptable fine lines with very good broad patterns. Again, keep them clean. I have also used the Testors brush off and on over the past 5 years. It is not a bad brush, I just like the feel of the Badger better. My compressor has two outlets on it. I keep the IL on one of them, and use it for general color painting. I have either the Paasche H or the Testors on the other port. These brushes are used for spraying the metalizer colors and Future. I also use them for spraying any type of paint other than enamels and acrylics. The bottom line, try to find a place or a friends house where you can try the brushes out or use them for a short period of time. Start out playing on scraps of card trying to write your name. Play around with the thinning and different air pressures. Then, get the one that you are the most comfortable with. Respect what others can do with the brush, but don't try to copy their results. Learn to duplicate the end results by learning your brush and your own talents. Enjoy the new found medium and happy modeling. John H ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 22:46:32 -0600 From: "Reid Sweatman" To: Subject: RE: Airbrushes Message-ID: <000001bdeb65$5c8cd680$0e9c639b@stranger> Just a note: you can get replacement gaskets from most art supply houses. > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > KarrArt@aol.com > Sent: Monday, September 28, 1998 8:10 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Airbrushes > > > I've used Paasche for 25 years- my first was a single action > (can't remember > model numbers worth beans), my "new"one is a double action > about10-11 years > old. Any gaskets, packing, rings etc. are long gone- just > melted away. The > only real problem is a buildup deep in the guts in the double > action. A couple > of times a year I just soak the whole mess in a jar of laq > thinner. I use the > old single action for spraying heavy duty stuff like gesso- a > conglomeration > of acrylic medium, pigment and plaster. I adapted a > mayonnaise jar to serve as > a "color cup". I prime masonite panels for paintings with this. If the > humidity is too high or too low, I might tie a rubber band > around the nozzle- > body joint to get little more "umph". I've dropped them on > their points, flung > 'em against a wall- you name the abuse and I've heaped it > upon these poor > pieces of machinery. So far after hundreds of paintings and > countless models, > they still serve me well. They've outlasted 4 compressors. > A friend gave me a Bader double action. I don't like it- not > because of any > fault of the brush itself, but because it fits my hand kinda > funny.I'm left > handed and the Paasche right hand brushes feel better than > anything I've > tried- including models made for lefties. > Robert K. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 22:55:04 -0600 From: "Reid Sweatman" To: Subject: RE: Airbrushes Message-ID: <000101bdeb65$5ed6c680$0e9c639b@stranger> Been using a Paasche VL for years now, rather like it, save for the awkward friction-fit color cup (I've had 'em drop in my lap in mid-spray ). You do have to keep them very clean, though, so I dismantle it and soak it overnight in lacquer thinner between jobs, then replace all the gaskets (they're really cheap), because I probably couldn't get them out and the thinner dissolved them. A bigger problem for me has always been the Paasche compressor I got with it. Loud, runs really hot, and won't produce much more than 18 psi. If I try to put a regulator on it, it can't drive the regulator, and leaps about like crazy. So I have a regulator that cost more than the compressor that I can't use . One of these days I'm going to find an excuse to buy a big tank compressor for something like house painting, then mostly use it for airbrushing models . > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > Sandy Adam > Sent: Monday, September 28, 1998 10:02 AM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Airbrushes > > > What sort of airbrush does everybody use? > > The question is pertinent as I need to buy a new one but > don't know whether > a Testors Aztek (stupid bloody spelling) is a good idea or > whether I should > get a Badger or what. > > I have been using a dual-action Paasche (don't know the > model) for a long > time but can't get a fine line out of it, even with three > different needles > - I tend to spray broad swathes and mask everything. > If I go for a Badger, what is the best (dual) general > modelling brush - a > 150? > I want to be able to widen out to a spray-can swathe but also > be able to > get a pencil line. > Any help or comments appreciated. > Sandy > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:47:50 +0100 From: Graham Nash To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Book Found on the net Message-ID: <199809290848.EAA03020@egate2.citicorp.com> Air Aces of the 1914-1918 War Bruce Robertson, Los Angeles Aero Publishers 1964. VG/VG price clipped dj. later ed. Binding is hb. Book# 000586 US$ 25.00. At: Heather Grace Books , 3341 Adams Ave. , San Diego , CA , U.S.A. , 92116 Phone 619-283-4341 , Email hgbooks@inetworld.net http://www.abebooks.com/home/HEATHERGRACEBOOKS/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:53:36 +0100 From: Graham Nash To: "wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Another Rare book on the net Message-ID: <199809290854.EAA03334@egate2.citicorp.com> Bruce, J.M. BRITISH AEROPLANES 1914-1918. Funk & Wagnalls, 1969. 2nd. Cloth. Second edition, in VG cond. US $50.00 (normally $100-$150) My Book Heaven 2212 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94612, USA phone: +1 510-893-7273 Fax: +61 2 6251 5536 e-mail: MBHR@ix.netcom.com http://www.bibliocity.com/home/MBH.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:58:22 -0700 From: "Sandy Adam" To: Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <199809290856.JAA14117@beryl.sol.co.uk> Thanks for all the replies on this one - but now I'm probably less clear what to do! I checked my (only) airbrush - its a Paasche VL, which I got from a model shop at Orange County Airport years ago on my first trip to the 'States (is it still there?) The guy was really helpful and recommended it as a good all-purpose airbrush with a number 1 & 3 needle & head. I also bought a funny needle with one side missing(!?!). I got back and bought a DeVillBiss compressor that runs at 40lbf/in2 (psi?). Since then I have never really coaxed a fine line out of it - I'm sure its my technique (or lack of it), but I disassemble it, clean everything spotlessly and put it back together, mix milk-like enamel and spray and either get a fine broad mist, or a thick broad mist. No chance of a line! Now I get around this by masking - but its tedious to use card "dodgers" when I want a soft camouflage line on, for example, the Sierra Roland D.II. I'd like to free spray this but can't. What am I doing wrong? There are three variable bits that I have changed around and experimented with - the needle, the conical hollow bit the needle fits into, and the front ring collar - which one (or all?) controls the "tightness" of the spray? I was going to chuck it and buy a new one (and will probably still do so) but Lee and John and others obviously rate Paasche brushes. Am I setting-up something wrong? Should I buy new needles etc? New compressor? Go back to brush painting? TIA Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:12:49 -0400 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi Subject: Re: E. J. Bullard's aircraft Message-ID: <3610C0B1.6D9E5293@ptdprolog.net> There was a brief article in Over the Front a year or so ago. Mike Muth mgoodwin@ricochet.net wrote: > I'm currently reading Carisella & Ryan's bio of Bullard, the 1st black > fighter pilot. He served with Spa. 93 and apparently flew an "all blue" > S.VII and similarly finished Nie. 24 or 27 with personal motto "ALL > BLOOD RUNS RED". Any articles on him in past Windsock's Foreign Legion > of the Air series or other info? > > Cheers, > > Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 06:26:41 +0000 From: Mike Dicianna To: wwi Subject: Airbrushes Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.19980929062641.0069f180@dnc.net> Been using the same ole' single action Wren (made by Paache?) since 1974. I bought it when I was stationed at Elmendorf AFB, Anchorage Alaska. Been a real work horse. Still can get a 1/16th fine line out of one of the three tips. Recently bought a Aztek set. Interesting.....have had some problems with it. got frustrated and went back to the ole' Wren. What I do different is my air supply. After fighting with moisture traps and spraying little drops of water all over some projects (explicative deleted) I switched to a commercial CO2 bottle with a regulator. I highly recommend this supply of air. Bottles can be rented (leased) for cheap and the standard regulators fit. A very DRY source of propellant. Never have had a problem with spraying water all over a project again. Filling my CO2 bottle is cheap and lasts for a looonnng time.....CO2 is available at most Welding Supply Stores. I think the last time I filled the bottle was a couple of years ago and it cost about $8.00. nb: got to finish that Candystripped DVII!! nu: Eduard Albatros DR.1, Operational Jasta 5 Aircraft!! nr: The Red Baron (MvR's Autobiography) Mikedc "Der Rote Modellflugzeugbauer" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:41:47 -0500 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: >I switched to a commercial CO2 bottle with a regulator. I highly = recommend this >supply of air. Bottles can be rented (leased) for cheap and the standard >regulators fit. A very DRY source of propellant. =20 Another good propellant is Nitrogen. It is inert and does not attract any = moisture. One thing to keep in mind when using any supply other than air = is that you need fresh air ventilation. It may take quite a while, but = you could in theory replace the air with your propellant and actually pass = out (or suficate) from oxygen deprivation. I had done some work in the = past using high pressure pumps with liquid CO2, and after venting the pump = chambers for a while, you do get light headed and need to get back into = fresh air. Whether a long airbrush session could produce quantities like = that, who knows, but a little prevention does go a long way. =20 Paul A. Schwartzkopf ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:01:28 -0400 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980929100128.006d3824@pop.mindspring.com> >What I do different is my air supply. After fighting with moisture traps and >spraying little drops of water all over some projects (explicative deleted) I >switched to a commercial CO2 bottle with a regulator. I highly recommend this >supply of air. I agree with Mike 100% on the CO2 as a propellant source. Had a bottle for years. Totally quiet, takes little floor space, and cheap to refill. I regret trading off my bottle. Now have a worn out, noisy compressor that fills a portable air tank to about 35 psi. There is a regulator and moisture trap between the tank and the airbrush. No problem keeping enough pressure to spray, but I miss the quiet bottle, just turn the valve on and spray, and spray, and spray. The dry CO2 eliminates the "moisture in the propellent" variable that even a moisture trap can't completely eliminate. sp (who needs to get the brass fittings needed to hook up my regulator to a CO2 clyinder and ditch the noisy compressor) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:53:46 -0400 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi Subject: Ventilation Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980929115346.006d3a08@pop.mindspring.com> I found an excellent source of room/paintbooth ventilation is a squirrel cage fan out of a dead A/C unit. Mine mounts on a ply board which replaces a pane of window glass and exhausts directly outside. I connect it to the back of my paint booth via a 4" dryer vent tube. The fan runs 24/7 and is much quieter than the wife when she smells laquer spray :) sp ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:35:38 EDT From: GRBroman@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Tank parts Message-ID: <166cc94e.3610fe4a@aol.com> Hey all, I got the catalogue from matador Models in the UK. If anyone is interested, I can post the address, the WW I goodies and prices. OR, if we have a UK member at the IPMS/UK Nats, perhaps they would make a list run :). Glen ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:32:00 +0200 From: Franco Poloni To: wwi Subject: Re: New List member Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980729193200.00696ca8@lo.itline.it> At 04.22 28/09/98 -0400, you wrote: >I'd like you to all give a warm list welcome to Daniele Silvestri, who >hails from Italy. > >Daniele posted a few messages a few messages at 'The Aerodrome' about >the colours and markings of Culleys 2F.1, which I believe is being made >in 1/28th scale from the Revell F.I kit. Daniele has already sent me >some work-in-progress shots, which I'd like to have Allan put on the >web-site if you are interested. Allan? > >Anyway, welcome aboard Daniele. Ask questions, have opinions, and most >of all, have FUN. > >daniele silvestri wrote: >> > >> I will be an honour for me if you introduce me, I'm not very pratice, soo >> I would don't want to cut a poor figure (is better). >> I would also try to do a web page, but not now, I have no time, soo anyone who >> will can see images directly. What do think about? >> >> Ciao > > Whaat???? is there another "MACCARONI" on the List?????:^)) unbelievable!! anyway, I'm really happy you've joined the list, Daniele ciao Franco ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:47:05 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <1e93b1de.36112b29@aol.com> In a message dated 98-09-29 04:59:46 EDT, you write: << I checked my (only) airbrush - its a Paasche VL, which I got from a model shop at Orange County Airport years ago on my first trip to the 'States (is it still there?)........... I also bought a funny needle with one side missing(!?!) Since then I have never really coaxed a fine line out of it - I'm sure its my technique (or lack of it), but I disassemble it, clean everything spotlessly and put it back together, mix milk-like enamel and spray and either get a fine broad mist, or a thick broad mist. No chance of a line! Now I get around this by masking - but its tedious to use card "dodgers" when I want a soft camouflage line on, for example, the Sierra Roland D.II. I'd like to free spray this but can't.>> Firstly-to cover all the bases- yes Orange County Airport is still here (if you mean California, not Florida- don't know 'bout that) as are the States! (Although a small piece of Orange County is missing after the Westminster water tank broke last week) It's probably not the problem, but when you reassemble the brush, is the needle pushed all the way in and tight against the little nozzle-cone? I've had the same problem you describe after stripping and cleaning. Usually it means my needle has been dinged and needs straightening and/or honing on a stone. Airbrushes can be the most frustrating and demonic devices in this world. Oh yeah- the funny little needle with the missing side is a cleaning reamer. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:46:43 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: In a message dated 98-09-29 02:18:13 EDT, you write: << Just a note: you can get replacement gaskets from most art supply houses. > -----Original Message----- > From: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu [mailto:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu]On Behalf Of > KarrArt@aol.com > Sent: Monday, September 28, 1998 8:10 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: Airbrushes > ......... Any gaskets, packing, rings etc. are long gone- just > melted away. The > only real problem is a buildup deep in the guts in the double > action. A couple > of times a year I just soak the whole mess in a jar of laq > thinner. >> Yeah- 1/2 mile away there's an art supply store that carries the parts. The parts are even cheap. I have sometimes replaced the various seals and such, but the last couple of years I just haven't bothered, and haven't seen any deterioration in performance.(BTW, the double action brush has a tiny ring in it that would be a perfect tire for a scratchbuilt model in about 1/200 scale!) Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:47:07 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <4ed35099.36112b2b@aol.com> In a message dated 98-09-29 10:01:33 EDT, you write: << Had a bottle for years. Totally quiet, takes little floor space, and cheap to refill. I regret trading off my bottle. Now have a worn out, noisy compressor that fills a portable air tank to about 35 psi. >> I've heard great things about bottles but I've never used one. Since I also paint pictures, I've wondered about how economical it would be. If I'm laying in some skyscape that's 3'x4' with lots of color tweaking and then get down to high pressure detail work, I just don't know how long my supply would last. For a compressor, I just got a new CambellHausfeld 3/4 hp on a 10 gal tank.It'll roar at 100psi I want it to.It replaced my old Cambell Hausfeld that had 1000s of hours of use. And IT'S still fixable if I can get a couple of parts. I quit foolin' around with hobby and art compressors years ago. Some of these cost more than the heavy duty machines ( my new rig was about $150US) and are more tempermental. These industrial items are a little noisy, but I've gotten used to that-even then, they're not on very long- the tank is filled in no time and the compressor kicks off. For moisture problems, that's more a problem of locality . I live in coastal California, and I just drain the tank once a week. I've had water spitting problems maybe once in the last two years. My big problem is in the autumn when we get the incredibly dry "Santa Ana" winds. The humidity drops to 8-9% and the THEN I have major clog problems- paint dries practically as it's being poured out of the bottle! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 14:39:41 -0500 From: The Shannons To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <3611377C.DE08F21E@ix.netcom.com> Sandy Adam wrote: > I was going to chuck it and buy a new one (and will probably still do so) > but Lee and John and others obviously rate Paasche brushes. Am I setting-up > something wrong? Should I buy new needles etc? New compressor? Go back to > brush painting? > TIA > Sandy I have been using a Paasche VL for fifteen years. I am able to get fine lines, but the technique is painstaking. First thing I would check is to look at both your needle and the double-cone shaped inner nozzle under a strong magnifying glass. Any bend to the tip of the needle, or any trumpeting out of the nozzle tip and you won't get the paint to go where you want it. You can straighten the needle tip, with a little practice, by rolling it under your finger against a pane of glass. Let the needle guide you to the proper angle and don't use a lot of pressure, just rolling. A slightly trumpeted nozzle can be straightened some the same way, but it might be better to have a new one that you save for the really fine work. (the needle might also go that way, too.) Use the very minimum pressure you can from your air compressor, and thin the paint a bit more than you would normally -- milk is too thick, you want it to be a lot like fountain pen ink. I have not been able to thin acryllics to this level satisfactorily, due to some of the problems that have been mentioned with them starting to lose cohesion, but this might only be due to my relative lack of overall experience with airbrushing them. I like Humbrols thinned with Grumbacher's "Pure White Spirits of Turpentine" for this kind of close work, the turpentine has a much different viscosity curve and the cone of spray is narrower for the same kind of mixture thickness than with mineral spirits, Testors Model Master thinner, or Floquil Dio-Sol/Rev 2. I use this kind of technique for those un-holy types from the second world unpleasantness. Paasche has a very fine work airbrush, I think it is the model "L", with a rather funny looking head. I have seen these used to shade the slopes on maps and touch-up eyeshadow effects in portraiture -- they can really put out a fine line with proper inks. I don't think they are inexpensive, and they look like a bear to clean with something as thick as paints. I don't know if this can cure things, but it might be worth the US $0.02 I'm putting in the pot. .Mark. -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 16:50:29 -0400 From: "Jim Lyzun" To: wwi Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: <36114815.6BF5@baynet.net> Sandy, I had the same problem and as an experienced airbrusher, couldn't understand why I couldn't get it a decent pattern. I sent it to Passche, they tweaked it somehow and I haven't had a problem with it since. And they didn't charge me. Jim Lyzun Am I setting-up > something wrong? Should I buy new needles etc? New compressor? Go back to > brush painting? > TIA > Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 13:50:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Fletcher To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Airbrushes Message-ID: I use a Badger 100GXL (with a built in cup) usually at about 80psi using brushable paint (thinned only slightly) and have had good results - I have found that it must be disassembled periodically to reseat the seals and I soak it in varsol/thinners to clean it. It was a bit awkward when I first started to use it but have gotten used to it and now it is like a pen. It cost me 40 Deutschmarks when that was $30 cdn ($20us) and I have replaced the teflon washers a couple of times and the needle (which needs replacing again). With the xf head and needle I can make a 1/16" to 1/2" line with little difficulty but I have problems with humidity even with an industrial sized water trap, and it is very sensitive to having the needle out of true (I have gotten good at retrueing and straightening the d**n thing. Mike Fletcher ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1226 **********************