WWI Digest 1223 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Poly Scale by The Shannons 2) Slater's plastikard by "Sandy Adam" 3) Re: Poly Scale by Suvoroff@aol.com 4) Re: Airfix DH4 bomb ID by "Tom Werner Hansen" 5) Re: Poly Scale by mbittner@juno.com 6) Re: Sierra 1/48 Roland C.II by JGFarah@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:49:15 -0500 From: The Shannons To: wwi Subject: Re: Poly Scale Message-ID: <360C481A.A7E32E9@ix.netcom.com> D. Anderson wrote: > At 03:56 AM 25/09/98 -0400, you wrote: > >While I am sure this has been brought up before, I will dare to ask; what is > >the best substance/chemical/solvent to clean up dried acrylic paint, > >specifically Poly Scale? > > > >Thanks in advance. > >Yours, > >James D. Gray > > > > Depends on what you mean by "clean up." To clean a paint brush of dried > acrylic paint, I use lacqueur thinner, which is also handy for cleaning the > airbrush. Alcohol works okay too, but lacqueur thinner is so efficient. > > For removing dried acrylic paint from a model, such as when the paint job > didn't go so well, I then use rubbing alcohol, because you just don't want > to put lacqueur thinner all over your plastic model. > > Hope that is of some help. > > Dane In both cases, one of the more complete acrylic paint removers is household ammonia (dilute it a bit for use). The acrylic carrier is broken down by ammonia or other bases and the paint just comes off. I do this every so often for my airbrush and paint mixing cup, just to get that last residue that the previous between-colors cleaning left behind. .Mark. -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 09:20:42 -0700 From: "Sandy Adam" To: "AAA - WW1 Group" Subject: Slater's plastikard Message-ID: <199809260818.JAA21741@beryl.sol.co.uk> Some of you may be interested in the following website http://www.slatersplastikard.com plastic sheet, strip, rod, wire, glaze, wheels, cement etc etc etc - look under architectural for our stuff. sandy ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 04:19:50 EDT From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Poly Scale Message-ID: <33fedb3d.360ca3a6@aol.com> Thanks a lot, guys. I wanted to clean the otherwise irremovable stuff off my new airbrush. Yours, James D. Gray ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 02:27:56 PDT From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: wwi Subject: Re: Airfix DH4 bomb ID Message-ID: <19980926092756.23225.qmail@hotmail.com> >From wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Fri Sep 25 15:25:54 1998 >Received: from (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by pease1.sr.unh.edu (950413.SGI.8.6.12/950213.SGI.AUTOCF) via SMTP id SAA25793; Fri, 25 Sep 1998 18:25:11 -0400 >Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 18:25:11 -0400 >Message-Id: <360C144F.3923@ricochet.net> >Errors-To: aew@pease1.sr.unh.edu >Reply-To: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >Originator: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >Sender: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu >Precedence: bulk >From: mgoodwin@ricochet.net The Airfix bombs are also too big for 1/72, they're more like 1/55. The fins are not so bad, but the rings that connect them have to be replaced with flat, straight strips. Basically they're useless, which is too bad, because they look good. Tom >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Airfix DH4 bomb ID >X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas >X-Comment: WWI Modeling Discussion List >MIME-Version: 1.0 >X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I) > >Are these supposed to be 100, 230 or ? lb bombs? If they're 100 lb >bombs, the shape is way off. Egg rather than pear shaped. (I know >there're plenty of other problems with 'em too.) > >Riordan > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 08:10:11 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Poly Scale Message-ID: <19980926.081041.-216833.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 26 Sep 1998 04:23:54 -0400 Suvoroff@aol.com writes: >Thanks a lot, guys. I wanted to clean the otherwise irremovable stuff >off my >new airbrush. Why didn't you say so! What I do from time to time is to soak the airbrush parts - sans any rubber "things" - in Murphy's Oil Soap. Works wonders! In fact, I just did that last night to my paint cup since I left paint dry in it. Not only cleaned up the new dried paint, but also cleaned up the months worth of back up. However, be sure *not* to use it on any rubber washers, or whatever, as Murphy's will attack rubber. Matt Bittner ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Sep 1998 20:41:59 EDT From: JGFarah@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Sierra 1/48 Roland C.II Message-ID: <907ad5a6.360d89d7@aol.com> I have an old Sierra Vac. Can sell for $9.00 + postatge ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1223 **********************