WWI Digest 1210 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) On the off chance... by "Steven M. Perry" 2) Profiles by Martin Ryan 3) Re: "Larry" by TPTPUMPER@aol.com 4) Re:Slick Willie.... was "Larry" by Don Rinker 5) Re: On the off chance... by Joey Valenciano 6) by "Tom Werner Hansen" 7) Re: SE-5a kits? by mbittner@juno.com 8) Re: SE-5a kits? by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 9) Re: On the off chance... by Bill Bacon 10) RE: SE-5a kits? by Shane Weier 11) Re: Lindberg SE-5a by David & Carol Fletcher 12) Re: On the off chance... by "Steven M. Perry" 13) Re: Lindberg SE-5a by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 14) Profiles by bucky@ptdprolog.net 15) Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by "ELBERT14" 16) Re: Lindberg SE-5a by KarrArt@aol.com 17) Drawings wasRe: Lindberg SE-5a by KarrArt@aol.com 18) Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by TPTPUMPER@aol.com 19) Re: Letter from Americal by Mick Fauchon 20) RE: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by Shane Weier 21) Pfalz D.III and Glencoe decals by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 22) Swap'N'Shop Update by "Leonard Endy" 23) Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by KarrArt@aol.com 24) Glencoe Pfalz Decals by bucky@ptdprolog.net 25) Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by "Charles or Linda Duckworth" 26) by "Douglas R. Jones" 27) Help for a fellow modeler by "Douglas R. Jones" 28) Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by Bob Pearson 29) Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale by Suvoroff@aol.com 30) Hit Kits from Poland by REwing@aol.com 31) Re: EDUARD COUP - SHARING THE BOOTY by "David R.L. Laws" 32) Re: EDUARD COUP - SHARING THE BOOTY by Bob Pearson ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 11:33:28 -0400 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi Subject: On the off chance... Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980913113328.0070d7d4@pop.mindspring.com> Does someone have a set of lozenge decals from the Eduard SSW D.III which they (most wisely) decided not to use and stuck in the spare decal box for just such an occasion? If so please give me an Off-List response and maybe we can work out a trade. TIA sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 09:02:59 -0700 From: Martin Ryan To: WWI List Subject: Profiles Message-ID: <35FBECB3.EDAC125C@ix.netcom.com> The UT Dallas site is missing at least two profiles: Number 1: SE5a Number 5: The Vickers F.B. 27 Vimy Hope this helps. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 12:22:05 EDT From: TPTPUMPER@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: "Larry" Message-ID: In a message dated 9/12/98 8:36:30 AM Central Daylight Time, SDW@qld.mim.com.au writes: > The person doing the trolling on usenet has now tried further to stir up > a flame war by accusing me of Hi kids! Isn't it a shame that some people have such small vestiges of a life remaining that they resort to falsehoods for amusement? (Say, isn't that very person the one that sheep 'round the world fear?) (Sorry, just a nasty rumor I heard . . . ) >:^) Have Fun!! IRA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 12:42:12 -0400 From: Don Rinker To: wwi Subject: Re:Slick Willie.... was "Larry" Message-ID: <35FBF5E4.BA1C93F1@fast.net> TPTPUMPER@aol.com wrote: > (Say, isn't that very person the one that sheep 'round the world > fear?) (Sorry, just a nasty rumor I heard . . . ) >:^) > Have Fun!! > IRA I thought that was Clinton.... Give that man a big cohiba....mmmmmm good.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:55:49 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: On the off chance... Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.19980914005549.00827200@philonline.com.ph> >Does someone have a set of lozenge decals from the Eduard SSW D.III which >they (most wisely) decided not to use and stuck in the spare decal box for >just such an occasion? If so please give me an Off-List response and maybe >we can work out a trade. You can have mine if I can find them. I'll look tomorrow. Please remind me via email. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 20:13:54 +0200 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Message-ID: <199809131807.UAA09445@d1o211.telia.com> Greetings all I originally sent this message on Friday, but apparently something had taken me off the list (a troll maybe, after all trolls are Norwegian). Joey said he had not received it, so I assume nobody else has either. Tom. Graham How I made a cast of those wings. You don't want to know, at least not if you value your time. OK. Here goes anyway: 1. Reshape the Airfix wings, remove part of the center portion which is too wide, cut the center section avay from the rest of the wings so you get a flat wing with no dihedral. (This is necessary for the mold-making process. 2. Add riblets from heatstretched plasticard and glue in place with liquid cement. Fill in aileron lines, they're not exactly right. 3. Get a nice glossy finish to the wing. (I don't have to go into this, I'm sure you all know how.) 4. Prepare the wing for making the mold (wax and release agent) 5. Place wing on a pice of glass. 6. Build up a frame around the wing to pour the resin into.(I use plasticene for this) 7. Mix and pour enough resin to cover the wing. (If you reinforce with glassfibre, it can be pretty thin, thereby making it more flexible, and easy to remove from finished wing) 8. Go over the finished mold to sharpen the rib detail. This is surprisingly simple if you have a flexible ruler to score along. 9. Prepare the mold (wax and release agent) 10. THE TRICKY PART THAT YOU MAY HAVETO GET PRACTISE DOING: Mix and pour fairly thick resin. I use a 60/40 mix of gelcoat and resin. It has to be pretty thick or everything will end up in the middle of the mold. Pour as much resin as you think you need into the mold. Work it into the corners and edges with whatever you have handy. Tip it and let enough run to the front of the wing to create the thicker leading edge. When you leave it to cure, prop the trailing edge up a bit so that there will be more resin towards the front of the wing. 11. If you were lucky/skilfull with Step 10 you now have a wing that is pretty good on top, but will need work on the underside. Probably a lot of sanding and filling untill you have the right aerfoil shape. (This is the stage I am at right now. I have two sets of wings, one good (actually pretty perfect) and another (the first try) not so good, but I'll only use the outer portions of this one for the lower mainplanes anyway) 12. Cut out ailerons, make holes for rigging and struts, make lower ribs, I'll probably use thick decal cut into uniform strips for this. (Or I'll wait untill the CDL has been painted on and the make decal strips of a darker colour to simulate the see-through effect) Voila, the you have them. Don't say I didn't warn you, this has taken me as many hours as it took minutes to make the pot-method wings (Which looked like hell anyway). But now I have a mold for wings that can be used again both for R.E.8s and B.E.2cs. (I guess I could have ordered a good set of B.E.2c and made the mold directly from this. In which case I would have kept my mouth shut about the whole thing.) Tom ---------- > From: Graham Nash > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Resin Cast R.E.8 wing > Date: 10. september 1998 13:29 > > Tom Werner Hansen wrote: > > > > Currently I'm making > > new wings for my Airfix R.E.8. Casirati's pot method didn't work for me, so > > I cleaned up the top of the kit wings, added the missing half-ribs in front > > and made a resin cast of the corrected wing and used that to mold new > > wings. > > So come on, give. How did you do a cast of the wings...?? > > Regards ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 13:18:52 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: SE-5a kits? Message-ID: <19980913.131854.-231485.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 12 Sep 1998 20:35:06 -0400 "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> writes: >So now I know what to do with that old Airfix Spad VII, as well as the >Lindberg SE-5a. Whenever I get to it, there is one obvious thing I plan on doing to the Airfix SPAD 7. Replace the wings with Roseplane wing-blanks. There is nothing else you can do. Once you sand off the corrugations (sp?) you'll have nothing left of the wings. Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 13:04:02 -0600 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi Subject: Re: SE-5a kits? Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980913130402.006d56c8@mail> At 02:15 PM 13/09/98 -0400, you wrote: >On Sat, 12 Sep 1998 20:35:06 -0400 "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> >writes: > >>So now I know what to do with that old Airfix Spad VII, as well as the >>Lindberg SE-5a. > >Whenever I get to it, there is one obvious thing I plan on doing to the >Airfix SPAD 7. Replace the wings with Roseplane wing-blanks. There is >nothing else you can do. Once you sand off the corrugations (sp?) you'll >have nothing left of the wings. > In a really, really old FSM there is an article on kit-bashing an Alby D-II from an Alby D-III, and obviously the wings had to be scratchbuild. Here's what the guy did. He took sheet plastic, cut to appropriate size, placed the pieces of plastic on some balsa wood, and then burnished the pieces with a spoon. He used butter as a lubricant (yuck!), and when finished he had a pair of wings with the correct airfoil. Neat, huh? Dane >Matt Bittner > >_____________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 16:07:56 -0500 From: Bill Bacon To: wwi Subject: Re: On the off chance... Message-ID: <35FC342C.652E@netjava.net> Steven M. Perry wrote: Steve, Your snail address and they are yours. Cheers, Bill B. > > Does someone have a set of lozenge decals from the Eduard SSW D.III which > they (most wisely) decided not to use and stuck in the spare decal box for > just such an occasion? If so please give me an Off-List response and maybe > we can work out a trade. > TIA > sp ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:30:52 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: RE: SE-5a kits? Message-ID: <199809132149.HAA28679@mimmon.mim.com.au> Matt, >Whenever I get to it, there is one obvious thing I plan on doing to the >Airfix SPAD 7. Replace the wings with Roseplane wing-blanks. There is >nothing else you can do. Once you sand off the corrugations (sp?) you'll >have nothing left of the wings. Mmm. When you grind off the corrugations you are left with a short chord, thin object looking nothing like a SPAD 7 wing. Which is exactly what you want when skinning wings (or the trailing edge gets too thick and the airfoil becomes too fat) OTOH Barry's Blanks would cut down the build time dramatically ! Shane ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 14:43:11 -0700 From: David & Carol Fletcher To: wwi Subject: Re: Lindberg SE-5a Message-ID: <35FC3C6F.5936@mars.ark.com> "If they would've used better drawings, the kit would've been in the legendary Jenny class!" Drawings - a pet subject of mine! Many reviewers compare kits to drawings and then launch into the usual sermon of "3mm too long" or "wing tips wrong shape", thereby accepting whatever drawing they have at hand as being accurate! Even so-called "reliable" sources are often inaccurate, downright wrong or based on unrepresentative examples. The repair manuals for the Canadair Argus had the nose shape completely out of whack; Consolidated could not provide Ford with B-24 Liberator drawings during WWII because they didn't have any! They "lofted" the shapes on the floor and built from there; Ford had to take an aeroplane apart to make drawings to build from. The North American NA-16 series (AT-6, Harvard, Wirraway, etc.) was the first aircraft built using steel jigs to ensure interchangeability of parts; prior to that, parts were custom fitted as the builder went (even as late as the F-101 Voodoo, inspection panels were fitted to the individual airframe and were not interchangeable) often resulting in significant differences between supposedly identical airframes. Every manufacturer produced "rogue aircraft" that didn't perform right or did downright dangerous things even after modern tolerances and jigs were introduced. Look today at homebuilt aircraft made from the same plans: wingtip bows, normally made from ash, often have different curvatures; fairings may be different to accommodate wing-fuselage joints, ad infinitum. And they are built UP from the plans - many manufacturers drawings are drawn DOWN after the aircraft is built or by manually scaling down blueprints (no photocopiers back then...). Build to WWI tolerances and the differences can be marked indeed; length, span and performance figures normally came from a "representative" aircraft. Just the tautness of the fabric could have affected the span of a Gotha! Yes, drawings are important, but more important in my view is "if it looks right, it is right". Don't expend two weeks and half a pound of putty on a model because one reviewer says it is too skinny, too fat or too whatever based on the plan in an "In Action" book. Look at photo's and make a judgement call. I could not find absolutely accurate drawings when I did my Harvard book (Karlstrom's drawings, for example, had the rear fuselage length of the BC-1/SNJ-1 and were a scale nine inches too short!) and wound up working from factory repair manuals and actual aircraft to get a satisfactory result - and I wasn't expected to produce a set of plans in a couple of days like many illustrators/draftsmen. I still had long-lasting trouble with the Harvard rudder shapes! The moral of this diatribe? Trust your eyes more than your tape measure - so endeth the sermon. Dave Fletcher mdf@mars.ark.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 19:07:01 -0400 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi Subject: Re: On the off chance... Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980913190701.00713f24@pop.mindspring.com> Thanks to all who have resopnded. My decal problems are solved. No place but this list can someone get such help so quickly. Thanks to all who make this list such a helpful place. Regards to all sp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 17:02:26 -0600 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi Subject: Re: Lindberg SE-5a Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980913170226.006d6350@mail> At 05:51 PM 13/09/98 -0400, you wrote: [snip] > >The moral of this diatribe? Trust your eyes more than your tape measure >- so endeth the sermon. Shane has expounded on these points before. I realize that drawings are often inaccurate themselves, or that modellers often don't use them properly. But there's no question they can be helpful, in conjunction with good photos, to get an idea of what a thing looks like. And that's why in my brief precis of the Lindberg SE-5a, I settled for saying "too wide," or "too narrow," instead of employing spuriously precise measurements. Dane >Dave Fletcher >mdf@mars.ark.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 19:26:06 -0400 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Profiles Message-ID: <35FC548D.5214FB9E@ptdprolog.net> Just got back from Valley Con, the model show Barry throws. Not a whole lot of WWI stuff, but more than enough to look at anyway. It seemed like there was a lot more WWII armor than before and not too many of the 10- thingies. Usually there are a lot of old Aurora kits around, but they were sorta sparse this year. Price for them were still a little high.(Eindecker for $40.00...Isn't that more than what the Eduard costs?) Picked up 2 Revell 1/72 Albatros D-III for $3.00 and $5.00. Lots of 1/72 Revell for $4-5.00 Lots of people selling Profiles. Prices ranged from $6.00 to $3.00! Picked up a few,(Pup, SVA, Camel, BE2a/b, Bristol fighters and RolandC-II) but the more popular ones weren't to be had.(SE5a, Triplane, Nieuport, D-VII/VIII). A really nice Eduard Triplane, Morane Saulnier, Eindecker in 1/48 and some true masochist who did a beautiful DH-2, fully rigged(I think.. who can really tell without letting a parakeet loose innthe cockpit and seeing if it can get out) in 1/72! Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 19:45:53 -0400 From: "ELBERT14" To: Subject: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <199809132349.TAA52694@pimout2-int.prodigy.net> Has anybody built or bought this kit? I'm curious about the quality etc before I buy it. I've bought some of Aeroclub's white metal parts and thought they needed a lot of work before they could add much to a model. Is their plastic injection good quality? Are there any other Bristol F2b's out there in 1/48 scale? Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 19:48:45 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Lindberg SE-5a Message-ID: <9a78bf1c.35fc59dd@aol.com> In a message dated 98-09-13 17:55:25 EDT, you write: << "If they would've used better drawings, the kit would've been in the legendary Jenny class!" Drawings - a pet subject of mine! >> Mine too! With regard to Lindgerg's kit, obviously based on the Wylam plans, his might have been the best set around at the time, or at least the most easily obtainable, but using the eyes, some drawings DO more accurately represent a real shape than others. Wylam did some good work, but alot of his stuff was conjecture. I can't remember who did the most popular Jenny drawings in the ancient days (Nieto?Nye?), but while not perfect, did a better job of showing the Jenny's shape and size, than Wylam's did for the SE5a. When in doubt, gather everything you can from every source you can and do you own! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 19:48:44 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Drawings wasRe: Lindberg SE-5a Message-ID: <48c7b530.35fc59dc@aol.com> In a message dated 98-09-13 17:55:25 EDT, you write: << The moral of this diatribe? Trust your eyes more than your tape measure - so endeth the sermon. Dave Fletcher mdf@mars.ark.com >> As in all things- "common sense " (ha! as if it were really common!) should be the rule. Unless we could freeze one object in time and and magically quantify its size and shape, and present drawings in some form, and labeled as being true to this object at a paricular time, 100% accuracy is impossible. My infamous Gotha model was made from my own plans, based on a ton of photos, tables of differing specs, and several other "scale drawings". My final product doesn't agree competely with any one single source. If I would've had a real Gotha to measure, I would've used it, but those measurements would've applied to THAT machine, in those conditions at that time. But unless there were any blatant anomolies when compared to other data about another Gotha, these measurements would satisfy my personal level for tolerances. A Fokker with 3 scale feet too much span is gonna look odd. Now, how do we determine what the real span was to begin with so we can say "3 feet too long"? Source A may say 29' 4", B says 29' 9", C gives a metric figure that works out to about 29' even. We do have a "ball park" figure, unless there's some "X files" style conspiracy to cover up the real span. Contours and compound curves in small scales- that's where we really getdown to eyeballs. Example:I can't put my finger (or eye) on it, but the Eduard Albatros D V looks odd to me, something to do maybe with the length of the landing gear legs and this throws the look of the fuselage off. Somebody else may not see it and I may be completely off my nut. None of this is to say that there aren't better drawings than others, but it all comes down to how close you want to work. A scale inch or two deviation form a published figure ain't gonnna matter to me. My moral- use your tape and your eyes... and the brain to synthesize the information gathered. Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 19:59:36 EDT From: TPTPUMPER@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <58a0a062.35fc5c68@aol.com> In a message dated 9/13/98 6:51:41 PM Central Daylight Time, ELBERT14@prodigy.net writes: > Are there any other Bristol F2b's > out there in 1/48 scale? Hi There! There is the old Aurora Brisfit in 1/48, if you can find one, but the Aeroclub kit will surely bury the Aurora in scale, outline, attention to detail, and value, not to mention ease of assembly (far less teeth gnashing over lack of scale outline, etc.). If you want a Brisfit in 1/48, plunk down your money for the Aeroclub kit. Or do as our own Shane Weier has done, and scratch your own. FWIW, I'm very happy with my Aeroclub RE8. Have Fun!! IRA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:17:34 +1000 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Letter from Americal Message-ID: James, > Now, since the woman I live with is a rabid Anglophile, I know that a "dummy" > is what we call in America, a pacifier. However, I STILL don't understand > what this means, exactly... translate please. In my experience, it means to publicly express a gesture anger or frustration, even contempt, as when a kid throws a tantrum and spits out its dummy to show that it won't be pacified. I know......I've raised two..... seen many spat....and spat many myself 80) So "when all about you lose their heads"......spit the dummy! 80) Cheers, Mick. x0o....* -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:07:42 +1000 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: RE: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <199809140040.KAA29745@mimmon.mim.com.au> Hi, >Has anybody built or bought this kit? Not me. For reasons which will be obvious to long termers on the list :-( > I'm curious about the quality etc >before I buy it. I've bought some of Aeroclub's white metal parts and >thought they needed a lot of work before they could add much to a model. >Is their plastic injection good quality? I do have their FE-2b though. Quality of the plastic is excellent, representation of the fabric surfaces being impeccable. >Are there any other Bristol F2b's out there in 1/48 scale? Thanks. Not yet, but soon. Blue Max will release a Biff soon - as in within weeks I believe. Never would've happened if it wasn't for me. You all should be thankfull - and pass me your wish list so i can start a scratchbuild project on the "most wanteds" Shane ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 18:20:52 -0600 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi Subject: Pfalz D.III and Glencoe decals Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980913182052.006ab924@mail> Well, after spending the last several days casting about for a project I can finish in the short-term--my other recent posts have indicated some of the things I've been looking at--I finally decided to revive my old Eduard Pfalz D.III project (which, incidentally, I bought and began a year ago, and was the first WW I project I'd ever begun), and now, a day later, the cockpit and engine are nearly done and I'm almost ready to cement the fuselage halves together. So, I'm starting to think about how to finish the kit. I don't know if either of the kit's schemes appeal to me, and I have heard that the Berthold version should in any case be a D.IIIa, so I was looking through my Glencoe kit, which has a vast choice of schemes on its decal sheet. However, I've heard from many list members that they have had a very difficult time using Glencoe's Invisiclear decals, and have had them fracture as soon as they hit the water. What I want to know is whether any of you have *successfully* applied Glencoe decals to a kit. If you did, what's the secret? Secondly, assuming anyone has successfully put Glencoe decals on a kit, a kit, and assuming they put those Pfalz decals on the Eduard kit, do they fit the Eduard kit? Overall, the Glencoe/Aurora kit appears to be very coarse, but not substantially bigger or smaller than the Eduard kit, so I'm hoping they will fit. If I had my choice, and I knew they'd fit, I'd probably go with Hohn's striped bird. Thanks in advance. Dane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 01:49:27 GMT From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi Subject: Swap'N'Shop Update Message-ID: <35fc74bf.7997012@legend.firstsaga.com> There are some new items for sale/trade on both the 72d and 48th pages. A new trivia photo and a couple of new pics of my grandson. Hopefully in the near future I'll have some other info concerning some other WWI armor types and a page of Desert Shield/Storm photos showing my unit's POW activities. Len Visit the Swap'N' Shop pages... http://www2.firstsaga.com/lfendy/fof_site.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:23:53 EDT From: KarrArt@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <5f12c71f.35fc7e39@aol.com> In a message dated 98-09-13 20:26:13 EDT, you write: << Never would've happened if it wasn't for me. You all should be thankfull - and pass me your wish list so i can start a scratchbuild project on the "most wanteds" Shane >> Can we also look forward to a 1/48 HP 0/400? My scratch job's been finished for a couple of months! Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:35:12 -0400 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Glencoe Pfalz Decals Message-ID: <35FC80E0.7A438B2A@ptdprolog.net> STOP! I forgot who asked the question, but since I just started doing Barth's Pfalz D-III using the Glencoe kit & decals, I thought I'd try one of the other decals on the sheet and see if it disintegerated. Yep, into a million pieces. I just sprayed the entire sheet with a clear coat/dull.(I'm not sure if it matters if it's dull or glossy) Once that dries. it usually binds the decals together pretty nicely all you have to do is cut them out very close to the colors or else you'll get a lot of film attached....yet another trick I learned courtesy of this group. Anyway, I'm glad you mentioned this. I wasn't aware of the problem before, and now there's one less chance of my screwing this one up. er...maybe I should be mad at you for taking away my excuse ;-) HTH Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 21:59:39 -0500 From: "Charles or Linda Duckworth" To: Subject: Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <199809140255.VAA13897@mail.primary.net> I recently pickup the Aeroclub Bristol F2b on sale from Sierra Scale Models for (I think) $26.95 plus shipping. Only 'peeked' in the box and haven't place it against GA drawings, to me it's of a slightly higher standard than their FE2b. I recommend it, Charlie. ---------- > From: ELBERT14 > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale > Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 6:52 PM > > Has anybody built or bought this kit? I'm curious about the quality etc > before I buy it. I've bought some of Aeroclub's white metal parts and > thought they needed a lot of work before they could add much to a model. > Is their plastic injection good quality? Are there any other Bristol F2b's > out there in 1/48 scale? Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:51:53 -0500 From: "Douglas R. Jones" To: wwi Message-ID: <3.0.32.19980913225151.00699f04@deimos.tx.iex.com> This fellow is NOT part of the list. Would you guys please give him a hand with his request? Thanks, Doug >Hello, > I just happened to find a site on the net with an article by yourself >on Brit. WWI colors. I was actually searching for info on color schemes >for Sopwith Tripes. > Many years ago a modeler in my area pasted away and his widow handed a >bag of built-up kits to me. She couldn't bring herself to throw them >out. After almost 19 years I came across that bag again. I looked inside >and there was a Sopwith Tripe by Aurora (black plastic) sitting there >intact. I decided to restore the model. I am not adding any detail, it >will be a box stock kit. I have no clue as to color scheme because I >mostly stay in WWII. > I'm wondering if you could provide some info on a simple color scheme. >Any help is greatly appreciated. > >Dick Montgomery > -------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zeppelin | (972)301-1307 | djones@iex.com -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:53:52 -0500 From: "Douglas R. Jones" To: wwi Subject: Help for a fellow modeler Message-ID: <3.0.32.19980913225350.0069fd10@deimos.tx.iex.com> Fellows I am sending this again as I realized when I sent it that I removed the darn header! My apologies! This fellow is NOT part of the list. Would you guys please give him a hand with his request? Thanks, Doug >Return-Path: >Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 18:47:59 +0000 >From: Richard Montgomery >Reply-To: montgomery@stic.net >To: djones@iex.com >Content-Length: 737 > >Hello, > I just happened to find a site on the net with an article by yourself >on Brit. WWI colors. I was actually searching for info on color schemes >for Sopwith Tripes. > Many years ago a modeler in my area pasted away and his widow handed a >bag of built-up kits to me. She couldn't bring herself to throw them >out. After almost 19 years I came across that bag again. I looked inside >and there was a Sopwith Tripe by Aurora (black plastic) sitting there >intact. I decided to restore the model. I am not adding any detail, it >will be a box stock kit. I have no clue as to color scheme because I >mostly stay in WWII. > I'm wondering if you could provide some info on a simple color scheme. >Any help is greatly appreciated. > >Dick Montgomery > -------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zeppelin | (972)301-1307 | djones@iex.com -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 20:59:04 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <03590486200294@KAIEN.COM> Sorry Robert the law saying a kit will be put out after intense scratchbuilding is only valid if it takes long enough for your first born to enter pre-school (or graduate). Bob ---------- > From: KarrArt@aol.com > In a message dated 98-09-13 20:26:13 EDT, you write: > > << > Never would've happened if it wasn't for me. You all should be thankfull > - and pass me your wish list so i can start a scratchbuild project on > the "most wanteds" > > Shane > >> > > Can we also look forward to a 1/48 HP 0/400? My scratch job's been finished > for a couple of months! > Robert K. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 01:13:17 EDT From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Aeroclub Bristol F2b in 1/48 scale Message-ID: <232013b.35fca5ed@aol.com> '...and pass me your wish list so i can start a scratchbuild project on the 'most wanteds'" Albatros C.X of course. In 1/72nd scale. Yours, James D. Gray ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:14:08 EDT From: REwing@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Hit Kits from Poland Message-ID: Hi Everyone, Does anyone know about these kits? Are they any good? Squadron has them for about $15. Should I pick up a couple, or let it go? TIA -Rick- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 16:27:02 +0000 From: "David R.L. Laws" To: wwi Subject: Re: EDUARD COUP - SHARING THE BOOTY Message-ID: <35FD43D6.429F@webtime.com.au> Does Eduard in 1:48 at about $US10:0 per kit ( NOT INCLUDING THEIR recent releases ie : NIEUP 17, H-B W 29 and ALB D III ) sound good to you guys ? Available are some out-of-production kits eg: SSW DIII, Fok D VI and a small number of 1:72 WW I subjects Will supply further details when available DAVID ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:21:57 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: EDUARD COUP - SHARING THE BOOTY Message-ID: <06215778000537@KAIEN.COM> David, YES ! ! ! !! ! !! ! Bob ---------- > From: "David R.L. Laws" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: EDUARD COUP - SHARING THE BOOTY > Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:19:41 -0400 > > Does Eduard in 1:48 at about $US10:0 per kit ( NOT INCLUDING THEIR > recent releases ie : NIEUP 17, H-B W 29 and ALB D III ) sound good to > you guys ? > > Available are some out-of-production kits eg: SSW DIII, Fok D VI and a > small number of 1:72 WW I subjects > > Will supply further details when available > > > > DAVID ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1210 **********************