WWI Digest 1198 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Alex Imrie-German Bomber Book (Aviation Photofax) by Graham Nash 2) Re: French Primer by "Steven M. Perry" 3) Scout Performance data and RBII by "cameron rile" 4) Re: AM UPDATE & decals by bucky@ptdprolog.net 5) Re: Thinning acrylics by "Jeff Curtis" 6) Re: Thinning acrylics by mbittner@juno.com 7) Re: Thinning acrylics by "S.M.Sundberg" 8) Re: Thinning acrylics by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 9) Re: Thinning acrylics by "Leonard Endy" 10) Re: AM UPDATE by "Tom Werner Hansen" 11) Internet Modeler (was Re: AM UPDATE) by Bob Pearson 12) Re: Thinning acrylics by Matthew Zivich 13) Re: Thinning acrylics by "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> 14) More Mud Excitement! by dianep@webtv.net (Diane Pessler) 15) R. E. 8 by "Lee Mensinger" 16) Re: R. E. 8 by Bob Pearson 17) DR1 by Pedro e Francisca Soares 18) RE: Thinning acrylics by Pedro e Francisca Soares 19) Re: DR1 by Geoff Smith 20) Re: DR1 by TPTPUMPER@aol.com 21) RE: Internet Modeler (was Re: AM UPDATE) by Cleo 22) Re: Thinning acrylics by mbittner@juno.com 23) Re: DR1 by Zulis@aol.com 24) Re: Scout Performance data and RBII by Mike Fletcher ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 08:25:56 +0100 From: Graham Nash To: World War 1 Modelling List Subject: Alex Imrie-German Bomber Book (Aviation Photofax) Message-ID: <199809070726.DAA17986@egate2.citicorp.com> I've just found a copy of this book in a shop here in the UK at GBP4.95/US$9.00. If anyone is interested, contact me off-list. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 07:58:54 -0400 From: "Steven M. Perry" To: wwi Subject: Re: French Primer Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980907075854.006f4d48@pop.mindspring.com> At 09:49 PM 9/6/98 -0400, you wrote: >On Sun, 6 Sep 1998 20:44:27 -0400 "Steven M. Perry" > writes: > >>The Spad A.2 datafile says metal parts were painted in a Light Yellow >>to >>match the CDL fabric. He gives Methuen 4A3 for the CDL and 5C4, 5C3, >>5C2 & >>5D3 as the light yellow. I wouldn't be surprised if they did the same >>on >>other models. > >I have seen the same thing on other types. However, it was my >understanding this was the *exterior*. What about the insides? Silver >like Mike thinks? So far, that's the answer... > > >Matt Bittner > The datafile didn't mention interior specifically, just "metal parts". Silver sounds good. sp >_____________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 08:12:58 -0300 From: "cameron rile" To: wwi Subject: Scout Performance data and RBII Message-ID: <199809070508501@cameron.prontomail.com> Hi all , I know most ppl here have libraries like the parthenon , i have collected some data for the scout planes in RBII , i am beta testing an aspect of the game so cant say much , but several of us now have direct input to making the planes behave like they did and performance data for these planes would be a big help. I would especially like climb rates / time for several diff altitudes and times so i can plot the data on a height vs time curve , as climb rate wasnt linear. I will post everything up on a website afterwards and during so all can see it too. This is what i have got ( pls pls add to it , might be RBII's last chance ) : figures for ww1 aircraft sources , " sky battle : 1914 - 1918 " and " Fighter aircraft of world wars one and two " Aircraft level speed climb rate Morane Bullet 102mph @ 6500ft ------- DH2 85mph @ 5000ft ------- N11 97mph @ sea level ------- N17 107 mph @ 6500ft 10 000ft in 9 minutes N24 - - N28 128mph 10 000ft in 11.5 minutes Spad VII 119 @ 6500ft 13 120 ft in 19.5 minutes Spad XIII 130mph @ 6500ft 13 124 ft in 12.16minutes Sop Pup 111mph @ s/l , 103mph @ 9000ft 10 000ft in 10 minutes Sop Tripe 117mph @ 5000ft 10 000ft in 9.5 minutes Sop Camel 124mph @ 6500ft 15 000ft in 16.8 minutes Sop Snipe 121mph @ 10000ft - SE5a 132mph @ 6500ft - Fokker EIII* 87mph 700ft per minute Halb DII 90mph - Alb DII* 109mph @ sea level 13 120 ft in 26 minutes*** Alb DIII 115mph 3 280 ft in 3.3 minutes Alb DVa 117mph @ 3280ft 13 120 ft in 22.8 Pfalz DIII 112mph @ 2000** - Pfalz DXII 115mph - Fokker DVII 116mph @ 3280ft 16 400ft in 31.5 minutes Fokker Dr1 115mph - *used fokker EII with 100 obersul rotary and alb DI with 160 hp mercedes. **2000 am assuming ft as ceiling is in feet *** note DII matches climb rate of Spad VII up till 4000ft then loses in rest of curve. cam Visit my homepage at http://www.prontomail.com/Prontomail/users/cameron ______________________________________________________________ Get Your Free E-mail and Homepage at http://www.prontomail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 09:14:23 -0400 From: bucky@ptdprolog.net To: wwi Subject: Re: AM UPDATE & decals Message-ID: <35F3DC2F.185B84AA@ptdprolog.net> Bob Pearson wrote: > . However IIRC Superscale has a 500 item minimum, so unless I > win a lottery or such (not likely as I don't buy tickets), this isn't very > likely > The Hell with the lottery...keep working the counterfeit sceme you perfected in Arizona. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 10:50:22 -0500 From: "Jeff Curtis" To: Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <199809071543.KAA26289@indy1.indy.net> I use denatured alcohol, and have had good results. Jeff ---------- > From: Bob Pearson > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Thinning acrylics > Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 12:19 AM > > > Greetings all, > > Temporarily unsubscribed member Pete Mitchell has sent me the following > request. > > Got a Question for you (and the list). Thining down acrylics such as > Tamiya, Sangyo Gunze etc. for spraying..... what alternate thiners can be > used besides those supplied by the parent companies. ie water, > water/ethanol or isopropanol. What do you use and if you have used the > others, how successful has it been? > > And when you use water, do > you find that you get a funny silvering effect to the paint or that the > texture doesn't look right? > What about drying times? I assume you use a 1:1 or a 2:1 paint:water mix. > how long does it take to dry between coats? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:00:23 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <19980907.110033.-259351.3.mbittner@juno.com> On Mon, 7 Sep 1998 01:19:01 -0400 Bob Pearson writes: >Got a Question for you (and the list). Thining down acrylics such as >Tamiya, Sangyo Gunze etc. for spraying..... what alternate thiners can >be >used besides those supplied by the parent companies. ie water, >water/ethanol or isopropanol. What do you use and if you have used the >others, how successful has it been? I always use windshield washer fluid for your car. Thinned 3 parts paint to one part washer fluid. Works wonders. The only paint I use now is Polly Scale/Aeromaster (one in the same). >And when you use water, do >you find that you get a funny silvering effect to the paint or that >the >texture doesn't look right? >What about drying times? I assume you use a 1:1 or a 2:1 paint:water >mix. >how long does it take to dry between coats? While it takes only a few minutes (five?) to dry to the touch, it takes about 24 hours to cure. So, if you're masking between coats, be sure to wait at least a day between masks. Otherwise you run the risk of pulling paint off. However, the *most important thing* to remember when using acrylics is *to always wash your model*. I go to the extreme since I enjoy building "short run" kits (especially some of those coming from the CIS): first I wash the whole model *before building* using dish detergent. Some kits it takes more than one wash (for example, I have the NPO VES Yak-3 that took *three washes* before the mold release agent was removed). Then, once I'm ready to paint, I will wash the model again using Polly S(cales)' "Plastic Prep". I usually wash both times with an old toothbrush. This has usually worked for me. I can always tell a spot I missed with the wash because the paint will tend to "bead" on the model at that spot. In that instance, I usually pull out the 6000 grit sandpaper and sand off the "stuff" the wash left behind. Too much information? :-) Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 10:58:28 -0600 From: "S.M.Sundberg" To: wwi Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <35F410B4.7A@netins.net> Bob Pearson wrote: > > Greetings all, > > Temporarily unsubscribed member Pete Mitchell has sent me the following > request. > > Got a Question for you (and the list). Thining down acrylics such as > Tamiya, Sangyo Gunze etc. for spraying..... what alternate thiners can be > used besides those supplied by the parent companies. ie water, > water/ethanol or isopropanol. What do you use and if you have used the > others, how successful has it been? > > And when you use water, do > you find that you get a funny silvering effect to the paint or that the > texture doesn't look right? > What about drying times? I assume you use a 1:1 or a 2:1 paint:water mix. > how long does it take to dry between coats? Windshield washer fluid. Blue color doesn't show up. Minutes-hours between coats. Best to wait days before doing things like varnishing. Steve S. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 10:49:17 -0600 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980907104917.006bd358@mail> At 01:18 AM 07/09/98 -0400, you wrote: > >Greetings all, > >Temporarily unsubscribed member Pete Mitchell has sent me the following >request. > >Got a Question for you (and the list). Thining down acrylics such as >Tamiya, Sangyo Gunze etc. for spraying..... what alternate thiners can be >used besides those supplied by the parent companies. ie water, >water/ethanol or isopropanol. What do you use and if you have used the >others, how successful has it been? > >And when you use water, do >you find that you get a funny silvering effect to the paint or that the >texture doesn't look right? >What about drying times? I assume you use a 1:1 or a 2:1 paint:water mix. >how long does it take to dry between coats? > I don't know; for me, the thought of using something like windshield fluid defeats the whole purpose of acrylics, which is to avoid the toxic thinners required by solvent paints. I have used a number of thinners over the years, and have always had good results. Plain water is better than most think, but make sure it is distilled water. 93% or 99% isopropyl alcohol is good. And sometimes I even use Polly S airbrush thinner, which I suspect is just winshield fluid, but I don't use it often. Drying times? As long as you can stand. The longer paint is left undisturbed, the better and harder it will cure. Never less than 24 hrs., and that is often not nearly enough. Dane ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 17:44:11 GMT From: "Leonard Endy" To: wwi Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <35f51ad4.705772@legend.firstsaga.com> On Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:59:41 -0400, you wrote: >Windshield washer fluid. Blue color doesn't show up. Minutes-hours >between coats. Best to wait days before doing things like varnishing. > Some people like this because it might help with the yellowing that is experienced with white. Don't know if it works because I never tried it. I have had good luck with plain old tap water and isopropyl alcohol. Len Visit the Swap'N' Shop pages... http://www2.firstsaga.com/lfendy/fof_site.htm ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 19:49:50 +0200 From: "Tom Werner Hansen" To: Subject: Re: AM UPDATE Message-ID: <199809071747.TAA16634@d1o211.telia.com> Bob Excuse 1 and 5 did ot for me. Scanner warmed up and ready. Am throwing stuff out willy-nilly to make room on my hard disk. Also threw out the address to your e-zine. Please re-advice, since I'm looking forward to what excuse nr 4 has given rise to. Tom ---------- > From: Bob Pearson > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: AM UPDATE & decals > Date: 07. september 1998 07:14 > > > Greetings all, > > I purchased 60 blank CDs (possibly a few more than we need - but hopefully > we can sell the extras to new members of the list). No scanning has started > yet due to the following excuses. > 1/ Summer > 2/ The British books > 3/ The Pfalz book > 4/ Getting IM up > 5/ Basic laziness > > As mentioned before the test CD of some sample jpgs worked fine and I was > able to read these IBM files on my Mac. > > When I am finally able to make it to the post office during business hours I > shall send the pages to be scanned to those who have commited themselves to > doing so. Once this is done they will send these files to Phillip to put > them on CD, and the paper copies will go to Rick and Bill to enable them to > fulfill the requests for paper copies. > > I apologize for my delays in this and can only hope that the promise of the > Pfalz book and IM work towards explaining my tardiness. > > As for decals, I would love to do more. I did the decal sheet for the > Passchendaele Albatros D.II conversion kit, and will most likely be doing > their other sets. If I could afford it I have many other ideas I would like > to do as well. However IIRC Superscale has a 500 item minimum, so unless I > win a lottery or such (not likely as I don't buy tickets), this isn't very > likely > > Regards, > Bob Pearson > ---------- > > From: DavidL1217@aol.com > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: Re: Another Triplane? > > Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 00:55:48 -0400 > > > > Unrelated, but... > > 1. What is status of AM CD project > > > > 2. Your profiles in the new modelling Ezine look great, esp. the Le Chat > Noir > > N17. Any temptation to get into the decal business? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:03:40 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Internet Modeler (was Re: AM UPDATE) Message-ID: <18034039302576@KAIEN.COM> Tom (and any others who haven't seen it) The URL for Internet Modeler is http://www.avsim.com/mike/awn We should have our own name in another month, but until then this is it. The profiles are on the Galleria page. Regards, Bob ---------- > From: "Tom Werner Hansen" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: AM UPDATE > Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:50:03 -0400 > > Bob > Excuse 1 and 5 did ot for me. > Scanner warmed up and ready. > Am throwing stuff out willy-nilly to make room on my hard disk. > Also threw out the address to your e-zine. > Please re-advice, since I'm looking forward to what excuse nr 4 has given > rise to. > > Tom > > ---------- > > From: Bob Pearson > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: AM UPDATE & decals > > Date: 07. september 1998 07:14 > > > > > > Greetings all, > > > > I purchased 60 blank CDs (possibly a few more than we need - but > hopefully > > we can sell the extras to new members of the list). No scanning has > started > > yet due to the following excuses. > > 1/ Summer > > 2/ The British books > > 3/ The Pfalz book > > 4/ Getting IM up > > 5/ Basic laziness > > > > As mentioned before the test CD of some sample jpgs worked fine and I was > > able to read these IBM files on my Mac. > > > > When I am finally able to make it to the post office during business > hours I > > shall send the pages to be scanned to those who have commited themselves > to > > doing so. Once this is done they will send these files to Phillip to put > > them on CD, and the paper copies will go to Rick and Bill to enable them > to > > fulfill the requests for paper copies. > > > > I apologize for my delays in this and can only hope that the promise of > the > > Pfalz book and IM work towards explaining my tardiness. > > > > As for decals, I would love to do more. I did the decal sheet for the > > Passchendaele Albatros D.II conversion kit, and will most likely be doing > > their other sets. If I could afford it I have many other ideas I would > like > > to do as well. However IIRC Superscale has a 500 item minimum, so unless > I > > win a lottery or such (not likely as I don't buy tickets), this isn't > very > > likely > > > > Regards, > > Bob Pearson > > ---------- > > > From: DavidL1217@aol.com > > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > > Subject: Re: Another Triplane? > > > Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 00:55:48 -0400 > > > > > > Unrelated, but... > > > 1. What is status of AM CD project > > > > > > 2. Your profiles in the new modelling Ezine look great, esp. the Le > Chat > > Noir > > > N17. Any temptation to get into the decal business? > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 14:25:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Matthew Zivich To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: FWIW, I've used acrylics often, though not in model building,and my understanding is that alcohol may weaken the acrylic binder that keeps the pigment intact in acrylic paints. Sort of like using too much turpentine with oil based paints. The paint pigment then wants to return to its powdered form. A benign additive like distilled water sounds like a safe bet especially if you want "museum quality". mzivich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 12:27:15 -0600 From: "D. Anderson" <2814823733@home.com> To: wwi Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19980907122715.006c0c70@mail> At 02:27 PM 07/09/98 -0400, you wrote: >FWIW, I've used acrylics often, though not in model building,and my >understanding is that alcohol may weaken the acrylic binder that keeps the >pigment intact in acrylic paints. Sort of like using too much turpentine >with oil based paints. The paint pigment then wants to return to its >powdered form. A benign additive like distilled water sounds like a safe >bet especially if you want "museum quality". I've never heard that before and I've never experienced any trouble in years of airbrushing acrylics. But it does sound like a good excuse to be environmentally friendly and use distilled water. By the way, according to an old book on artists' materials, by an artist named Dore Watson, thinning artists acrylics with too much water will do something similar to what you describe alcohol doing, and that is why acrylic washes always look awful when dry. Dane >mzivich > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 12:08:51 -0700 (PDT) From: dianep@webtv.net (Diane Pessler) To: wwi Subject: More Mud Excitement! Message-ID: <977-35F42F43-701@mailtod-152.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Just finished weathering my Whippet tank with Light Brown Mud by FX Weathering Materials. Oh Wow! This stuff is grainy and makes clods! That's right, clods! The treads look perfect and the overall ambience is the muddy hell of putrescence that was the Somme. My wife said she hasn't seen me this excited in years. Then she drove off. I highly and unreservedly recommend this truly outstanding product! John ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 15:56:57 -0500 From: "Lee Mensinger" To: wwi, "Lee Mensinger" Subject: R. E. 8 Message-ID: <35F44898.E7863232@wireweb.net> I have a need to know the meaning of the initials R. E. as in R. E. 8. Since the plane was designed by the Royal Aircraft Factory, the R. E. gets lost in the translation. Please help. I assured a Canadian friend that one of you guys and gals would know the answer and share it immediately. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 14:05:27 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: R. E. 8 Message-ID: <21052747300320@KAIEN.COM> Lee, RE is Reconnaissance Experimental Bob ---------- > From: "Lee Mensinger" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: R. E. 8 > Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 17:01:54 -0400 > > I have a need to know the meaning of the initials R. E. as in R. E. 8. > Since the plane was designed by the Royal Aircraft Factory, the R. E. > gets lost in the translation. > > Please help. I assured a Canadian friend that one of you guys and gals > would know the answer and share it immediately. Lee > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 21:55:53 +0200 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: "WW1 Modeling List (E-mail)" Subject: DR1 Message-ID: <01BDDAAA.A80901E0@fei1-p16.telepac.pt> Gang, Were there shoulder straps on the Fokker Dr1 seat harness or only belly straps? TIA Um abraco Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 21:56:18 +0200 From: Pedro e Francisca Soares To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <01BDDAAA.AF77C740@fei1-p16.telepac.pt> -----Original Message----- From: mbittner@juno.com [SMTP:mbittner@juno.com] Sent: Monday, September 07, 1998 5:57 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Works wonders...While it takes only a few minutes...I go to the extreme ...I usually wash both times with an old toothbrush. Too much information? :-) Matt Bittner Couldn't you keep it for yourself Matt? ;-) Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 22:19:19 +0100 From: Geoff Smith To: wwi Subject: Re: DR1 Message-ID: <35F44DD7.28DC@cwcom.net> Pedro e Francisca Soares wrote: > > Gang, > > Were there shoulder straps on the Fokker Dr1 seat harness or only belly straps? > > TIA > > Um abraco > Pedro Photo 60 on page 36 of the Special shows shoulder straps. Geoff ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 17:19:16 EDT From: TPTPUMPER@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: DR1 Message-ID: Hi Pedro! The Dr.I had shoulder straps, as well as a belly-belt. (At least, according to my DML kit . . . ) ;^) Have Fun!! IRA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 16:56:29 -0500 From: Cleo To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Internet Modeler (was Re: AM UPDATE) Message-ID: <01BDDA80.76DE6F80@port1326.jxn.netdoor.com> ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDDA80.76E610A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had not seen it, but now that I have, it's a great job!!! -----Original Message----- From: Bob Pearson [SMTP:bpearson@kaien.com] Sent: Monday, September 07, 1998 1:05 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Internet Modeler (was Re: AM UPDATE) Tom (and any others who haven't seen it) The URL for Internet Modeler is http://www.avsim.com/mike/awn We should have our own name in another month, but until then this is it. The profiles are on the Galleria page. Regards, Bob ---------- > From: "Tom Werner Hansen" > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: AM UPDATE > Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:50:03 -0400 > > Bob > Excuse 1 and 5 did ot for me. > Scanner warmed up and ready. > Am throwing stuff out willy-nilly to make room on my hard disk. > Also threw out the address to your e-zine. > Please re-advice, since I'm looking forward to what excuse nr 4 has given > rise to. > > Tom > > ---------- > > From: Bob Pearson > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > Subject: AM UPDATE & decals > > Date: 07. september 1998 07:14 > > > > > > Greetings all, > > > > I purchased 60 blank CDs (possibly a few more than we need - but > hopefully > > we can sell the extras to new members of the list). No scanning has > started > > yet due to the following excuses. > > 1/ Summer > > 2/ The British books > > 3/ The Pfalz book > > 4/ Getting IM up > > 5/ Basic laziness > > > > As mentioned before the test CD of some sample jpgs worked fine and I was > > able to read these IBM files on my Mac. > > > > When I am finally able to make it to the post office during business > hours I > > shall send the pages to be scanned to those who have commited themselves > to > > doing so. Once this is done they will send these files to Phillip to put > > them on CD, and the paper copies will go to Rick and Bill to enable them > to > > fulfill the requests for paper copies. > > > > I apologize for my delays in this and can only hope that the promise of > the > > Pfalz book and IM work towards explaining my tardiness. > > > > As for decals, I would love to do more. I did the decal sheet for the > > Passchendaele Albatros D.II conversion kit, and will most likely be doing > > their other sets. If I could afford it I have many other ideas I would > like > > to do as well. However IIRC Superscale has a 500 item minimum, so unless > I > > win a lottery or such (not likely as I don't buy tickets), this isn't > very > > likely > > > > Regards, > > Bob Pearson > > ---------- > > > From: DavidL1217@aol.com > > > To: Multiple recipients of list > > > Subject: Re: Another Triplane? > > > Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 00:55:48 -0400 > > > > > > Unrelated, but... > > > 1. What is status of AM CD project > > > > > > 2. Your profiles in the new modelling Ezine look great, esp. the Le > Chat > > Noir > > > N17. 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AwAXgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEYUAAAAAAAADABmACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAY hQAAAAAAAB4AKIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADaFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeACmACCAGAAAA AADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA3hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgAqgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAOIUA AAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4APQABAAAABQAAAFJFOiAAAAAAAwANNP03AAC6rQ== ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDDA80.76E610A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 17:09:58 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Thinning acrylics Message-ID: <19980907.171837.-248289.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:46:19 -0400 "Leonard Endy" writes: >Some people like this because it might help with the yellowing that is >experienced with white. Don't know if it works because I never tried >it. I have had good luck with plain old tap water and isopropyl >alcohol. I have painted an all-white, off-topic model with Polly Scale white and windshield washer fluid. No yellowing yet... Matt Bittner _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 18:56:45 EDT From: Zulis@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: DR1 Message-ID: In a message dated 98-09-07 17:09:27 EDT, Pedro writes: <> A pic on pg.37 of Schuster and Engels' Fokker V5/Dr.I book is an unusual angle where they apparently tipped the entire plane on its nose in order to clearly photograph a test gunsight, looking down into the cockpit. As a result of the unusual angle of the plane, the shoulder straps very clearly hang out from the back of the seat and towards the instrument panel. Dave Z ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 16:07:07 -0700 From: Mike Fletcher To: wwi Subject: Re: Scout Performance data and RBII Message-ID: <35F4671B.E2397519@mars.ark.com> cameron rile wrote: snip > Aircraft level speed climb rate > > Morane Bullet 102mph @ 6500ft ------- > DH2 85mph @ 5000ft ------- > N11 97mph @ sea level ------- > N17 107 mph @ 6500ft 10 000ft in 9 minutes > N24 - - > N28 128mph 10 000ft in 11.5 minutes >From various sources, some conflict but these seem most consistent. (FWIW the Nieuport Special consistantly under-reports performances for the whole series - a common problem with early British sources) N10 141km/h(88mph) 1 000m(3,280ft) in 6-7 min 2 000m(6,560ft) in 12-18 min N11 156km/h(97mph) 500m(1,640ft) in 2:35 min 1 000m(3,280ft) in 5 min 2 000m(6,560ft) in 11 min 3 000m(9,840ft) in 18 min N17 172km/h(107mph) 1 000m(3,280ft) in 3 min 2 000m(6,560ft) in 5:3 min 3 000m(9,840ft) in 10 min 4 000m(1,5604ft) in 19:30 min N24 187km/h(116mph) 2 000m(6,560ft) in 5:40 min 3 000m(9,840ft) in 9:25 min 4 000m(15,604ft) in 14:40 min 5 000m(19,505ft) in 21:30 min N28 206km/h(128mph) 5 000m(19,505ft) in 19:48 min Mike Fletcher ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 1198 **********************