WWI Digest 738 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: New thread/Masking by mgoodwin@ricochet.net 2) Re: New thread/Masking by huggins@OnRamp.NET (John Huggins) 3) Re: Fee observer position by John & Allison Cyganowski 4) Cross and Cockade USA by John & Allison Cyganowski 5) Re: Cross and Cockade USA by DavidL1217 6) Re: Cross and Cockade USA by Carlos Valdes 7) Re: New thread/Masking by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 8) Re: New thread/Masking by Bob Pearson 9) Re: Cross and Cockade USA by mbittner@juno.com 10) Re: Material received by mbittner@juno.com 11) Need help from the Brits on this list by Pedro Nuno Soares 12) Re: New thread/Masking by John & Allison Cyganowski 13) Re: See-throught effect by John & Allison Cyganowski 14) Re: Cross and Cockade USA by BStett3770@aol.com 15) message by AUGWWIRUS@aol.com 16) Re: message by Bob Pearson 17) Masking by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 18) 1/285th by Redwilde@bdsbbs.com (Redwilde) 19) Re: Masking by Joey Valenciano 20) 1/285th lozenge by Joey Valenciano 21) Re: Fee observer position by Mick Fauchon 22) Re: See-throught effect by The Shannons 23) Re: New thread/Masking by Mick Fauchon 24) Re: Masking by Mick Fauchon 25) Re: Masking by "Bill Ciciora" 26) Re: Material received by Mick Fauchon 27) Re: Masking by huggins@OnRamp.NET (John Huggins) 28) Re: Masking by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 08:31:27 -0800 From: mgoodwin@ricochet.net To: wwi Subject: Re: New thread/Masking Message-ID: <345B595F.690F@ricochet.net> Mary-Ann/Michael wrote: > > Once again I write seeking help on a very basic subject. I've been > handpainting my models most of the time, with judicious(I should know how to > spell that correctly, I know) use of canned spray paint. It has become > painfully clear that the plain old masking tape used for school projects by > my daughter won't cut it. > So, the question is, what to use for masking. I bought some liquid > stuff, but that doesn't work well for sharp lines, etc. If masking tape > works, what brand and kind. > TIA > Mike Muth Mike, I like to use magic tape, i.e. plain old Scotch celophane tape which is designed to peel off without leaving sticky residue. It generally adheres very well and makes a sharp demarcation line. I'll defer to the more experienced/skilled list members for description of more exotic masking materials. Just in case you're interested, not all airbrushes are budget-busters. Central Pneumatic makes a rugged single-action airbrush which retails for less than $10. It's basically a Badger clone (although Badger bottles don't fit it very well) and has served me well. Out here on the West Coast, Harbor Freight hardware used to carry them. One of these and an appropriately plumbed air reservoir(tank) w/regulator and you'll have a serviceable airbrush for under $60. You could go the canned air route, but that gets expensive. Cheers, Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 11:50:40 -0600 From: huggins@OnRamp.NET (John Huggins) To: wwi Subject: Re: New thread/Masking Message-ID: > Once again I write seeking help on a very basic subject. I've been >handpainting my models most of the time, with judicious(I should know how to >spell that correctly, I know) use of canned spray paint. It has become >painfully clear that the plain old masking tape used for school projects by >my daughter won't cut it. > So, the question is, what to use for masking. I bought some liquid >stuff, but that doesn't work well for sharp lines, etc. If masking tape >works, what brand and kind. >TIA FYI, Scotch makes a clear removable tape. It ia vavailable from art supply shops. It is simular to frisket paper, only in 3/4 and 1 inch widths. Does ok every where except compound curves. You might try parafilm for this area. John Disclaimer: Any errors in spelling, tact, or fact are transmission errors. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 13:58:16 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi Subject: Re: Fee observer position Message-ID: <345B7BC8.17D8@worldnet.att.net> Joey Valenciano wrote: > > Now, what kind of bondage system was provided for this fellow? I'm making the Aeroclub kit too and want to know whether I should include a lap belt. > Basically, it was "Look Ma! No seat Belts!" There was really no restraint system for the observer (the pilot had a belt of the Sutton type, but no shoulder harness). I got the out of print Fe2b DataFile No 18 from Aeroplane Books. It has a very dramatic cover painting of the observer STANDING on his seat trying to repulse an attack by Werner Voss, with the rear Lewis. The book also has pictures from a trianing manual showing how (impossible it is) the observer uses his defensive weapons. This datafile is a terrific reference! John ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 14:15:44 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi Subject: Cross and Cockade USA Message-ID: <345B7FE0.6BC6@worldnet.att.net> What happened to Cross and Cockade USA? When did they start and when did they end? John ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 14:25:53 EST From: DavidL1217 To: wwi Subject: Re: Cross and Cockade USA Message-ID: <4dab5f0d.345b821f@aol.com> The organization fell apart in the mid 80's and came back as the League of WWI Aviation Historians with Over the Front as the new quarterly journal. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 20:40:34 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi Subject: Re: Cross and Cockade USA Message-ID: <345A8892.64F@conted.gatech.edu> C&C USA: 1960-1985. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 12:03:43 -0800 From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi Subject: Re: New thread/Masking Message-ID: <199711012003.AA13702@ednet1.orednet.org> > >Mary-Ann/Michael wrote: >> >> Once again I write seeking help on a very basic subject. I've been >> handpainting my models most of the time, with judicious(I should know how to >> spell that correctly, I know) use of canned spray paint. It has become >> painfully clear that the plain old masking tape used for school projects by >> my daughter won't cut it. >> So, the question is, what to use for masking. I bought some liquid >> stuff, but that doesn't work well for sharp lines, etc. If masking tape >> works, what brand and kind. >> TIA >> Mike Muth > >Mike, > >I like to use magic tape, i.e. plain old Scotch celophane tape which is >designed to peel off without leaving sticky residue. It generally >adheres very well and makes a sharp demarcation line. I second the Magic Tape suggestion which is, incidently, not the same as plain old Scotch celophane tape. A hint: stick it to your cheek briefly before applying it to the model. You skin oils will decrease its stickiness slightly, making it easier to remove when you're done painting while not compromising its masking abilities a wit. Cheers and all -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "All generalizations are dangerous, even this one." Alexandre Dumas ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 12:22:01 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: New thread/Masking Message-ID: <20220143407060@KAIEN.COM> One other suggestion is to place the tape on a pane of glass and cut a new edge as the original one tends to have a dip just where it will be most noticeable on your model. Regards, Bob Pearson ---------- > From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Re: New thread/Masking > Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 15:10:49 -0500 > > > > > > >Mary-Ann/Michael wrote: > >> > >> Once again I write seeking help on a very basic subject. I've been > >> handpainting my models most of the time, with judicious(I should know how to > >> spell that correctly, I know) use of canned spray paint. It has become > >> painfully clear that the plain old masking tape used for school projects by > >> my daughter won't cut it. > >> So, the question is, what to use for masking. I bought some liquid > >> stuff, but that doesn't work well for sharp lines, etc. If masking tape > >> works, what brand and kind. > >> TIA > >> Mike Muth > > > >Mike, > > > >I like to use magic tape, i.e. plain old Scotch celophane tape which is > >designed to peel off without leaving sticky residue. It generally > >adheres very well and makes a sharp demarcation line. > > I second the Magic Tape suggestion which is, incidently, not the > same as plain old Scotch celophane tape. > > A hint: stick it to your cheek briefly before applying it to the > model. You skin oils will decrease its stickiness slightly, > making it easier to remove when you're done painting while not > compromising its masking abilities a wit. > > Cheers and all > > > -- > Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org > > "All generalizations are dangerous, even this one." > Alexandre Dumas ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 14:40:23 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Cross and Cockade USA Message-ID: <19971101.145034.10982.1.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 1 Nov 1997 15:06:26 -0500 Carlos Valdes writes: >C&C USA: 1960-1985. A lot of people don't know this, but did you know there was a "big shot" who was one of the founding members? Yep, it was Mel Torme, "Velvet Voice" (or whatever his nickname is). Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 14:50:33 -0600 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Material received Message-ID: <19971101.145034.10982.3.mbittner@juno.com> On Fri, 31 Oct 1997 23:09:33 -0500 Mick Fauchon writes: > Splendid fellow! Many thanks! You're welcome. > The Pup material arrived testerday.......but >I'm mot sure you included everything. There was nothing mechanical, >electrical or chemical in the envelope. Also my letter-box is still in one peice. > If anything else arrive in the next few days I'll leave it in the >mailbox for a few days.......even if it's not ticking! > 80) applies to all the above. Well, hold your breath. I dare you. (Hey, this way I'll either get you with the letter bomb, or until you die of lack of oxygen...) Matt Bittner ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 20:41:08 +0100 From: Pedro Nuno Soares To: "'ww1 modeling list'" Subject: Need help from the Brits on this list Message-ID: <01BCE706.DC7B0100@fei1-p2.telepac.pt> Hi guys, Is any of you Brits on the list willing to help me with a small problem? I need a couple of Aeroclub parts for my Airfix 1/72nd Roland but mail = order won't work since Hannants only accepts orders for more than 30GBP. = All I need is a Mercedes 160 hp engine (Aeroclub ref: ABE020) and = parabellum mgs (ABG004). The total cost of these two items should be about 2 pounds. So if any of = you guys is willing to help, I'd send you the money in cash after = knowing how much was spent not only on the parts but also on p&p and = I'd be forever grateful. Thanks a lot Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 16:20:34 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi Subject: Re: New thread/Masking Message-ID: <345B9D22.5E4@worldnet.att.net> For a straight line the Testors Masking tape is very good. The edges are straight and sharp. There is another company that makes this stuff in different widths, but I cannot recall the name. It is also very low tack, which eliminates the use of skin oils, which may cause a problem on the finish. I have used electical tape on compound curves as it stretches and deformes to shape. Unfortunately, it is higher tack, and it creeps necessatating that the painting be done very soon after masking. John ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 18:13:10 -0500 From: John & Allison Cyganowski To: wwi Subject: Re: See-throught effect Message-ID: <345BB786.4E04@worldnet.att.net> > > Moving right along, does anyone have any suggestions as to how one might > > produce the see through effect on the wings of clear doped aeroplanes, I > > have a Falcon BE2c which I want to finish au natural. I have seen this done once. FineScale Modeler, Vol. 8, No.7, November 1990. The Reader's Gallery features a scratch built BE2c by Robert Karr of Bell Gardens, CA. He photgraphed this thing through a glass sheet against a blue sky and you can see right through the wings. A work of art. The issue also features an article showing how to scratch build an LVG C. VI in 1/48 by Ray Rimell. Definitely worth the price. They may have left-overs, or you could get it at a show. Their phone # is (414)796-8776. John ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 19:41:54 -0500 (EST) From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Cross and Cockade USA Message-ID: <971101194109_175693601@mrin43.mail.aol.com> Velvet Fog Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 19:41:56 -0500 (EST) From: AUGWWIRUS@aol.com To: wwi Subject: message Message-ID: <971101194152_1591463916@emout11.mail.aol.com> hello bob pearson, a friend sent me a copy of your june e-mail message that had comments regarding the french aviation book (maybe previously the russian book) by flying machines press. jim davilla is a friend and i'm sure would welcome receiving your comments on his book. i've also received a couple of comments (on his book) and corrections, which i've passed along to jim. my view is that all books on wwi aviation are really works in progress. you work with what you have, hope it's not too far off the mark, check with friends, get peer reviews (if possible or desired) (and sometimes that's not the case), and publish with a statement that the author welcomes all corrections. i have a work in progress and hope i'll be able to find a publisher for it when it's finished (deadline december 1999). what do you do for flying machines press? what's the story on the company? any clues would be welcome. cheers, august ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 17:16:55 -0800 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: message Message-ID: <01165575707480@KAIEN.COM> August, First off I must say the message about the French book wasn't meant for the list and I sent it there accidentally (no excuse only an explanation). After realizing what I had done I immediately phoned the publisher to let him know before someone else told him. Although I stand by my remarks on Nieuport 16/17 serials and the Oberndorf raid, they should have gone to Jim Davilla first, to which end I wrote a letter to him on 4 June (still sitting in my out box) which I could not decide to send or not as I was unsure how he would receive it. I agree with your remark about books being works in progress and I know how hard Jim (and Jack Herris - the FMP publisher) worked on the book, and as such the French book is still the best that we will likely see. As to mistakes, I know of some that I have in my writing/paintings already (references found almost immediately after completion), and I also know I shall make many more in the future and that I would like others to point them out to me as well. I can only hope that Jim will accept the criticisms I had in that same vein, and as adding further to an already excellent book. I am doing illustrations for FMP at present. The first book containing my work will be out in about two weeks, this is THE AIR VCs by Alex Revell. I am also working on a 2 volume set featuring the markings of all the British units during the First World War, written by Les Rogers. In addition we have other books in developement that I am not at liberty to mention yet. As for my writing I have a major article on No.3 Wing RNAS scheduled for publication in OTF next year. This will include descriptions of all their raids told in the pilots own words (they were required to write reports on completion of each mission, unlike many other units - very considerate for future historians), 20 b/w profiles and three colour profiles. I have been lucky in having this veted by some of the top 'experts' on RFC/RNAS/RAF and have high hopes for it, but again mistakes are bound to get by us. If you are serious about your book, have Jim pass it on to FMP. Perhaps something will come of it. Apologies to the group for sending this to the list and not direct to August, but as it was posted here in the first place I thought my reply may be of interest Regards, Bob Pearson ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 20:20:19 -0500 From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Masking Message-ID: <199711020120.UAA01159@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Riordan,John,Bill, Bob and John Hhhmmmm, plain old Scotch "magic " tape, huh? OK, I'll give it a shot. One worry is that the stuff will pull off the paint on the covered area...skin oil is all it takes to prevent this? Thanks a lot. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: 1 Nov 1997 20:43:48 EDT From: Redwilde@bdsbbs.com (Redwilde) To: wwi Subject: 1/285th Message-ID: <87843506456016@bdsbbs.com> I have considered doig up lozenge decals but rejected the idea since they use colors that aren't replicated in anything else. Because I then couldn't mix other things into the same print run, I would wind up with several lifetimes supply of them with a minimal print run. However, they are very easy to paint in this scale, so far I've done them up in three different methods. For all three, I start with giving an even base coat of one color. Then, the first method I used was doing a quick and random dabbing of colors with a fine tipped brush. I pretty quickly did up 16 D.VIIs from the JG II series of articles in OtF this way. The next batch I did was Albatri from Jasta 11 from the WIndsock Fabric Special on Richtofen's Circus that came out about two years ago. These I also did with a brush, but laying out an even pattern, leaving enough space to go back and add additional colors between each layer. more time consuming but a nice effect. The third way turned out to be the fastest and I think also the best scale representation! After the base coat dried, I then took two cans of spray paint from about 8" away and sprayed simultaneously while wobbling the cans back and forth. I then immediately took a third color and gave it a light overspray from about 12" away. I sprayed the bottom surfaces first. When these had dried, I then layed the parts out on a wire rack so the undercarriage on the fuselage and the struts on the top wing would hang down between the grid. I then sprayed the top pattern on. This gave a neat demarcation and just needed a little brush touch up on the fuselage side under the tailplanes. (Note: for durability while gaming, most of my figures are cast in two pieces -- fuselage and bottom wing as one piece plus a top wing with struts, or sometimes both wings cast as one piece and the fuselage slides between it. The two wings as one piece allows me to get a proper flare on the undercarriage in the mold and also makes for incredably solid construction for use while gaming. However, the SSW D.IV is done up with this style wing and I have been unsuccessful in spraying it. On the other hand the Gotha G.V is done this way and I have been successful in spraying on the night fabric since the shades are all so close to each other, its not critical that the pattern on the inside wing surfaces doesn't really match the outside surfaces.) I've done up Albatri D.Vs and W.4s, and some more D.VIIs with the spray method. I'm especially pleased with the look of the naval pattern on the W.4s. And this is definitely the method I'll use whenever the model allows it. I've also hand painted one Albatros (Oef) in the Austrian swirl pattern to prove it could be done. I'm not planning on doing up a flight of them, but it looks gorgeous and probably only took about an hour or two. Brian RW ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 11:02:01 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: Re: Masking Message-ID: <199711020302.LAA07454@fiesta.philonline.com.ph> At 08:20 PM 11/1/97 -0500, you wrote: >Riordan,John,Bill, Bob and John > Hhhmmmm, plain old Scotch "magic " tape, huh? OK, I'll give it a >shot. One worry is that the stuff will pull off the paint on the covered >area...skin oil is all it takes to prevent this? >Thanks a lot. >Mike Muth Mike, of course, please try this on scrap first. Over here in the Philippines, the problem with Scotch magic tape is that some of the gum stays on the surface when you peel the tape off. I don't know if the tape is manufactured locally. Maybe this problem has to do with the tape being used on the wrong latitude/altitude? ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 11:02:03 +0800 From: Joey Valenciano To: wwi Subject: 1/285th lozenge Message-ID: <199711020302.LAA07462@fiesta.philonline.com.ph> How about this: Make artwork for lozenges, in a computer program. Scale it down to 285th scale and print it on decal paper. Paint the whole wing white. Apply the decal. :-) ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:11:09 +1100 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Fee observer position Message-ID: Joey, I'm sure this one's come up before, but no-one's ventured into an answwer, as far as I can recall. So FWIW I'll plunge in first, with all the usual reservations, caveats, etc. It's a pretty vexed question, as it was part of the gunner's function to be mobile, so too much restraint would not be a good thing. OTOH, you wouldn't want him to fall out.....hmmmm! depends on the gunner, I suppose 80). While he was not actually operating the flexible gun, I can see a case for a lap-belt, though I've not seen any photographic evidence to that effect: BUT I would be more than glad to hear from anyone who has. While he *was* operating the weapon, he would need to mkove around a fair bit, so fairly rigid constraint would be a hinderance. I'd go for some sort of life-line with a carbine-hook attached, and I've seen evidence of what look like hand-grips or handrails inside the gunners station, and these could have been used as attachment-points for some sort of line. Again, I'd be more than happy to hear of photographic evidence to support that. The last thing I want is trouble from the Fliegerpolizei 80) Cheers, Mick. -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 21:29:24 -0600 From: The Shannons To: wwi Subject: Re: See-throught effect Message-ID: <345BF394.1082@ix.netcom.com> John & Allison Cyganowski wrote: > > > > Moving right along, does anyone have any suggestions as to how one might > > > produce the see through effect on the wings of clear doped aeroplanes, I > > > have a Falcon BE2c which I want to finish au natural. > > I have seen this done once. FineScale Modeler, Vol. 8, No.7, November > 1990. The Reader's Gallery features a scratch built BE2c by Robert Karr > of Bell Gardens, CA. He photgraphed this thing through a glass sheet > against a blue sky and you can see right through the wings. A work of > art. The issue also features an article showing how to scratch build an > LVG C. VI in 1/48 by Ray Rimell. Definitely worth the price. They may > have left-overs, or you could get it at a show. Their phone # is > (414)796-8776. > > John -- All I can contribute is what I did for my Eduard Morane L and Albatros C.III -- I faked the see-through effect using shading of the paint job. What I did was reverse the usual order, and paint my darkest CDL color first (4 p Humbrol #103 Cream + 2 p #159 Khaki Drab + 1p #71 Khaki Drill + 2 p #34 White). Then I painted the trough areas between the ribs with a mixture of that color and an equal amount of #74 Linen, then the final color in the very centers of the troughs is 4p #74 + 1p #34. After that was done, I went back and painted a line down the span of the wing in the middle color where each of the spars would run (top and bottom of the wing treated like this). I used an airbrush freehand for all this, so there is a blending and softened lines. The effect looks pretty darn good to me, though I'm a little prejudiced after all the work. I'm currently trying a new technique on the wood fuselage of the Alb. C.III. After painting the wood using three Humbrol colors (#110 Natural Wood for the base, with graining done using #71 Oak and # 1?? Brown Bess) I'm taking a leaf from the books on "Faux Finishes" in craft and furniture projects. Using the Tamiya Acrylic clear colors, I'm putting on a "toning" coat -- mix even parts clear red and clear green, giving an earth brown, and thin this down with Future (Kleer). Apply generously in small areas at a time, then blot with crumpled tape, tissue, paper towel, or craft sponge to give blotchy areas. Smears and streaks in various directions for different 'panels' are also good. So far, it looks pretty good, I did a second toning with a similar mix, but this time adding a bit of the clear yellow or clear smoke colors. The whole thing will get a clear Future coat, decaled, then finished in a mix of 1p Future to 2p PollyS clear flat. It looks like the wood has more depth and a high quality finish. I'll have to get pictures to the group if I really like it. -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:38:43 +1100 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: New thread/Masking Message-ID: > A hint: stick it to your cheek Thanks a lot, Bill......great hint. Apart from: Riiiiip!!...... Yeeeoooouuch!! [And other things which would bring the local Language Police down on me like a ton of bricks], I end up looking like a moulting hedgehog and have a model full of red whiskers! Thanks, but no thanks 80) Cheers, Mick. > compromising its masking abilities a wit. Or one could say, perchance: "a whisker"..........smirk -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 15:09:35 +1100 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Masking Message-ID: Mike, > Hhhmmmm, plain old Scotch "magic " tape, huh? OK, I'll give it a > shot. One worry is that the stuff will pull off the paint on the covered > area...skin oil is all it takes to prevent this? Be careful not to leave it on the model any longer than you have to ......it tends to leave adhesive behind. One way to overcome that [is not to use it.......I'm sorry, sorry.....couldn't resist it 80) ] and to reduce the amount of tack, is to stick and unstick it a few times on a [clean] sheet of glass. That way it doesn't lift flakes of paint either. A good substitute in some cases is Post-It tape. Cheers, Mick. -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 22:33:33 -0600 From: "Bill Ciciora" To: Subject: Re: Masking Message-ID: Mike asks: > So, the question is, what to use for masking. I like 3M Parafilm. I buy it from MicroMark, but I'm sure some other vendors have it. Very thin, very light tack, easy to cut into complex curves. You might also try frisket paper at art supply stores. Bill C. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 15:38:10 +1100 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Material received Message-ID: Matt, > > If anything else arrive in the next few days I'll leave it in > the > >mailbox for a few days.......even if it's not ticking! > > 80) applies to all the above. > > Well, hold your breath. I dare you. (Hey, this way I'll either get you > with the letter bomb, or until you die of lack of oxygen...) OK, OK......send the letter-bomb. We have the technology! 80) I'll send my wife out to the mailbox......depending on the scale of the device, she might not: a) see it, b) hear or feel the detonation. 80) 80)....... Quite seriously, thanks a million for the copies. Cheers, Mick. -- -- Mick Fauchon | Internet: ulmjf@dewey.newcastle.edu.au Reference Section, Auchmuty Library | Ph (intl+61+49) 215861 University of Newcastle, AUSTRALIA | Fax (intl+61+49) 215833 MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM M M M Tasmanian Devil: "#@%!&^*%%...!#@!&**%^@@#$#-+*+*&##@...!!" M M M M Yosemite Sam : "Cut out that Army talk!..Yer in the Navy now!" M M M MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 23:12:30 -0600 From: huggins@OnRamp.NET (John Huggins) To: wwi Subject: Re: Masking Message-ID: >Riordan,John,Bill, Bob and John > Hhhmmmm, plain old Scotch "magic " tape, huh? OK, I'll give it a >shot. One worry is that the stuff will pull off the paint on the covered >area...skin oil is all it takes to prevent this? >Thanks a lot. Mike, The stuff I use is not the regular Scotch Magic tape. i think the drafting type or removable type comes in a blue plad box instead of the regular Green plad box( I may have the colors reversed). John Disclaimer: Any errors in spelling, tact, or fact are transmission errors. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 22:10:56 -0800 From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi Subject: Re: Masking Message-ID: <199711020610.AA14061@ednet1.orednet.org> Mike wrote: > >Riordan,John,Bill, Bob and John > Hhhmmmm, plain old Scotch "magic " tape, huh? OK, I'll give it a >shot. One worry is that the stuff will pull off the paint on the covered >area...skin oil is all it takes to prevent this? >Thanks a lot. Seems to work for me. The only precaution I would add is that I work with enamels rather than acrylics (never could get them to airbrush well) and I always wash my models with soapy water and then rise and dry them well (to remove any mold release agents which might interfere with the paint adhering) before I start painting. But, with enamels applied to a well-washed surface, I've never had a problem with Magic Tape (treated with the skin oil/cheek trick) pulling off previously applied paints. Cheers and all, -- Bill Shatzer - bshatzer@orednet.org "All generalizations are dangerous, even this one." Alexandre Dumas ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 738 *********************