WWI Digest 623 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Laminate prop painting by Alberto Rada 2) by Charles Hart 3) Re: Was : Red-tailed Gotha by B-A-L 4) Test please dont read. by rboorman@cdsl.ca (Ray Boorman) 5) Re: Test please dont read. by Bob Pearson 6) Log off HELP` by David Harvey 7) Re: Test please dont read. by Kevin Wenker 8) Re: Log off HELP` by Charles Hart 9) Re: WW I Armor by Alberto Rada 10) Re: WW I Armor by Alberto Rada 11) Re: Revell Morane N corrections by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 12) Re: WW I Armor by Bill Bacon 13) Re: Revell Morane N corrections by mbittner@juno.com 14) Re: Laminate prop painting by The Shannons 15) Oshkosh b'gosh by Bob Pearson 16) Re: DETAIL FOR ENGINES Bristol Bulldog Jupiter VII F by B-A-L 17) Re: Is anybody out there by B-A-L 18) Re: Is anybody out there by "Valenciano . Jose" 19) Re: Eduard Albatros C.III by lothar@televar.com (mark) 20) Re: New Subscriber by Shane Weier 21) Re: DETAIL FOR ENGINES Bristol Bulldog Jupiter VII F by Shane Weier 22) What if the server's down? by Shane Weier 23) Re: Laminate prop painting by Sandy Adam 24) Re: Eduard Albatros C.III by Suvoroff@aol.com 25) Re: New Subscriber by Suvoroff@aol.com 26) RE: Test please dont read. by "Denest, Michael J" 27) Re: Eduard Albatros C.III by DavidL1217@aol.com 28) RE: Oshkosh b'gosh by "Denest, Michael J" 29) Re: Eduard Albatros C.III by "Paul Schwartzkopf" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:08:15 -0400 From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: Laminate prop painting Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970724120815.010a7064@pop.true.net> Hi Jim The way I an doing it now, and I am very happy with the results is: First I give it a coat of primer and clean any flash etc. then with a metal brush I pass it along each blade , not straight but trying to simulate the wood lines ( very thinly ) then I brush paint it with thinned down Model Master wood , let it dry for about 3 or 4 days and then I use Flo Stain from Floquil, this is a stain for wood that is 95 % thinner, whet a flat brush and pass it along side each blade, don't go back as the thinner might wash the painting, let it dry and put a coat of Future, and that's it Sounds complicated but it isn't SALUDOS ALBERTO At 01:49 PM 23-07-97 -0400, you wrote: >Ok, I know the real way to do it is carve laminations of real wood. > >Aside from that, do any of the list members have any tips and tricks for >painting props to look laminated? > >A recent WWI Aero has some good photos of props that appear to have six >layers alternating light and dark wood. > >This is for a 1/28 Fokker D7. Any help is appreciated. > >Jim Wallace > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:15:40 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Message-ID: No content, this is a test message. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 04:33:21 +1000 From: B-A-L To: wwi Subject: Re: Was : Red-tailed Gotha Message-ID: <33D79FF1.525B@eis.net.au> Shane, Before I abuse you for mocking the members of my honourable profession who persist in galloping about in black fancy dress ( in mourning for the late King James II of England ) and a quaint bob wig for a nice contrast I must thank you for the Woodman book- What a little mine of useful ! Thoroughly enjoying the data files - Between Woodman and Real Scale Plans I should be beyond my bollocks in balsa and plastic card 'til the cows come home.Ps could I scab the Windsock on the Friedrichshafen By the way that FSM on the Gotha had a surprise - the cockpit detail and fuel tanks Thanks again - the more you see the more the apparantly "authoritative" references seem to be open to doubt ! I should be able to return the latest lot to the poste restante by about Tuesday Hope all is well at home Kinest Regards again DAVID ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 16:20:37 UNK From: rboorman@cdsl.ca (Ray Boorman) To: wwi Subject: Test please dont read. Message-ID: <1997Jul24.141557.1788.99013@webservr.cdsl.ca> Well, I told you not to read! Just wanted to test mail was getting to me. Ray Boorman rboorman@cdsl.ca ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 15:33:34 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Re: Test please dont read. Message-ID: <22333424505125@KAIEN.COM> Ray, Sorry, I read. It would appear that I wasn't the only one curious about the lack of trafic. Bob Pearson ---------- > From: rboorman@cdsl.ca (Ray Boorman) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Test please dont read. > Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:23:39 -0400 > > Well, I told you not to read! Just wanted to test mail was getting to me. > > Ray Boorman rboorman@cdsl.ca ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 18:35:19 -0400 From: David Harvey To: "INTERNET:wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu" Subject: Log off HELP` Message-ID: <199707241835_MC2-1B85-FB1C@compuserve.com> I have tried a number of message variants to the server to log off this group, would someone please be kind enought to tell me how I can send a l= og off message that will work. Many thanks ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:48:01 -0500 From: Kevin Wenker To: wwi Subject: Re: Test please dont read. Message-ID: <33D7DBA1.6B0D@interaccess.com> Ray Boorman wrote: > > Well, I told you not to read! Just wanted to test mail was getting to me. > > Ray Boorman rboorman@cdsl.ca I didn't read it, I just looked at all the pretty pictures. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:23:58 -0700 From: Charles Hart To: wwi Subject: Re: Log off HELP` Message-ID: >I have tried a number of message variants to the server to log off this >group, would someone please be kind enought to tell me how I can send a l= >og >off message that will work. > >Many thanks mail a message to: wwi-request@pease1.sr.unh.edu NOTE: This address is NOT, repeat NOT, the address that you send contributions to the list. This is the one mistake that is most commonly made. Don't put anything in the subject line of the message. Put the following in the BODY of the mail message: unsubscribe wwi ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 19:40:46 -0400 From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: WW I Armor Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970724194046.010ae5ec@pop.true.net> Hi Any one has ordered from them ? SALUDOS ALBERTO At 02:02 PM 23-07-97 -0400, you wrote: > >The web sight that has the box art for the RPM FT-17 is G P Hobbies in Poland. >Their address is www.gphobby.krakow.pl/. > >Later, > >Tim >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:01:22 -0400 From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: WW I Armor Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.19970724200122.010b2b9c@pop.true.net> Hi Just been on this site and on RPM page but no sight of the FT-17 ? SALUDOS ALBERTO At 02:02 PM 23-07-97 -0400, you wrote: > >The web sight that has the box art for the RPM FT-17 is G P Hobbies in Poland. >Their address is www.gphobby.krakow.pl/. > >Later, > >Tim >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:53:26 -0700 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Re: Revell Morane N corrections Message-ID: <33D7F906.1759@ricochet.net> mbittner@juno.com wrote: > > On Wed, 23 Jul 1997 12:06:34 -0400 Charles Hart > writes: > > > Volume 1 of Windsock featured an article on "correcting" the > > Revell Morane Saulnier Type N. Quite a bit of work. Almost > > easier to use the wings, wheels and prop (but not the spinner) > > and scratch build the thing. I can dig at home and make you a > > copy. Too much to type here. > > The article was also copied in The Best of Windsock, Vol. 1. > Plus, I think it originally appeared in a Scale Models, but I > don't know which issue. > > FWIW, if you're not upto scratch building - nor want to try your > hand at the Hora resin - buy a Temens MoS Type I, and convert > that. Loads easier than correcting the Revell. > > Matt > mbittner@juno.com Matt, I've decided to "Stop Worrying and Love The Bomb" (Dr. Strangelove). In other words, correct the flying surfaces and not worry about the too tapered fuselage or clunky undercarriage of a $5.00 32-year-old kit. I don't build for contests and my aircraft suffer an extrordinary attrition rate on all fronts anyhow. No sense in throwing man-hours away on beautiful but fragile and doomed things. I'm working towards a paradox of basic advanced modeling. Although not beyond my skill level, I am finding Silk purses beyond my attention span, and my career choice does not allow both expensive, accurate models and expensive,acccurate references. If one has the former, one has less need of the latter, and I tend to get much more use out of the latter. Besides, I've just discovered another interest I don't have time for -Civil War Naval hist/ops! How much for the Temens kit? ;-) Cheers, -- Michelle and Riordan Goodwin Visit our websites: Michelle's Home/Resume Page: http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/9171 Riordan's Wings of Revolution: http://www.serve.com/rgoodwin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:36:16 -0500 From: Bill Bacon To: wwi Subject: Re: WW I Armor Message-ID: <33D80310.54EA1279@netjava.net> Alberto, I kept clicing and finally found it (the picture). Get onto tje site, Click on the Catalog bar, Click on the new arrivals (they have not arrived yet), and then scroll down. The FT-17 is the last one. No price, no date but apretty picture. Cheers, Bill B. Alberto Rada wrote: > Hi > > Just been on this site and on RPM page but no sight of the FT-17 ? > > SALUDOS > > ALBERTO > > At 02:02 PM 23-07-97 -0400, you wrote: > > > >The web sight that has the box art for the RPM FT-17 is G P Hobbies > in > Poland. > >Their address is www.gphobby.krakow.pl/. > > > >Later, > > > >Tim > >> > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:16:45 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Revell Morane N corrections Message-ID: <19970724.211650.8870.2.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:09:02 -0400 Michelle and Rory Goodwin writes: >How much for the Temens kit? ;-) I think Sopwith has it for somewhere between $6 and $8. If they don't carry it anymore (highly doubtful) there appears to be another source in the latest FSM. LMK. Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 21:43:07 -0500 From: The Shannons To: wwi Subject: Re: Laminate prop painting Message-ID: <33D812BB.714D@ix.netcom.com> Jim Wallace wrote: > > Ok, I know the real way to do it is carve laminations of real wood. > > Aside from that, do any of the list members have any tips and tricks for > painting props to look laminated? > > A recent WWI Aero has some good photos of props that appear to have six > layers alternating light and dark wood. > > This is for a 1/28 Fokker D7. Any help is appreciated. > > Jim Wallace -- Well, it's not all that difficult, but it is a little tedious. I've found a few things that work for me. Paints: I use Humbrols #71 Oak #72 Khaki Drill #110 Natural Wood #1?? Brown Bess #164(?) German Camouflage Red Brown And a couple of others that I can't remember the numbers for, their Israeli Tan and their Radome tan. The Radome tan or the Oak are painted first, then dry-brush lightly with the other, the Israeli tan, and very lightly with the Natural Wood -- lengthwise. Now comes the hard part. Look at the photos that show propellors close up. If you are lucky, one of them is your subject. Notice the ways that the laminations are laid, and especially the way that they go through the propellor hub and boss area. Hand-paint this in the natural wood or the khaki drill. I do it free-hand, because masking a prop for this is more trouble than the improvement. Now you do the dry brushing again, using a small brush to dry-brush the Brown Bess or the German red-brown (depending on whether you want a more chestnut/walnut tone to the wood) -- again, lengthwise. Now very lightly dry brush with the khaki drill across the propellor. This is almost invisible on both, but gives a toning that makes the wood look. Final touch is to give it a couple of thin coats of Future (also sold in Europe as Kleer) floor finish acrylic gloss. This looks right to me for 1/48th and larger, but you might want to tone it down in smaller scales. As you do your research and get better with the techniques and more practice, you can do subtle graining by using a fine brush and a color a shade darker than the base tone -- I don't know whether to call it a wet dry-brushing, or a dry painting, but you use short strokes side by side to form the lines and whorls of wood grain. I wouldn't recommend this for large wood areas, as you are likely to die of natural causes before you could finish an Albatros fuselage. -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com History manages to get away with cliches no novelist could. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:33:38 -0700 From: Bob Pearson To: WW1 Mailing list Subject: Oshkosh b'gosh Message-ID: <03333870405794@KAIEN.COM> Greetings all, Here is a note from Brad Gossen, unfortunately he has been unable to send any email for the past week or so, but can still receive. So if any of you have emailed him, that is the reason there is no reply (here I thought he had found someone new and was just avoiding me). Brad would like me to tell any of you that are going to Oshkosh next week that he will be working the Warbird line wearing the orange hat and John Huggins' WW1 modelling group button. Bob Pearson ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:20:49 +1000 From: B-A-L To: wwi Subject: Re: DETAIL FOR ENGINES Bristol Bulldog Jupiter VII F Message-ID: <33D829A1.77B0@eis.net.au> TO EVERYONE A bit of a CHALLENGE !!! THE PROBLEM I'm finishing off A Bristol Bulldog but the pipes which come off the front of the cowl just behind the prop out of the collector ring and then curve and split into two to connect with each side of the top of the cylinders are horrid little suckers to model Has anyone got any ideas. I'm working in 1/48 on the old SMER kit and hve completely remodelled the horrid pseudo Mercury (?) ecowl and engine installation - I dont want to spoil it with a principal feature of the type that's clumsy - It'll make the fully detailed engine look bloody silly. I'm also having a spot of bother with the cylinder fairings. Full size these are thin ali metal and hollow. They have a wedge shape and curve in to a " waisted" appearance ( looking front to rear ) with a dip or concave section on the top. At the base they are fixed by rivets or screws to the cowling and have, at this point, a noticable "skirt " of metal which runs down both sides of the fairing to provide this rivet or screw mounting point AND THEY ARE VERY SMALL IN 1/48 What's the go ? Mould them solid and then excavate. I've tried thin card but getting the wedge shape WITH the waist ( as I'm calling it ) is a ruddy nightmare All contributions gratefully received !! Kind Regards DAVID R.L. LAWS ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:22:36 +1000 From: B-A-L To: wwi Subject: Re: Is anybody out there Message-ID: <33D82A0C.2EF3@eis.net.au> TIM vox clematis in deserto ! ( a voice crying in the wilderness ) I had the same problem last night too DAVID R.L. LAWS ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 12:26:31 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Is anybody out there Message-ID: On Fri, 25 Jul 1997, B-A-L wrote: > TIM > > vox clematis in deserto ! ( a voice crying in the wilderness ) > > I had the same problem last night too Ah'm here. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 22:54:36 -0700 (PDT) From: lothar@televar.com (mark) To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard Albatros C.III Message-ID: <199707250554.WAA04498@concord.televar.com> Other Mark writes: >I wonder, shall we all get our Albatros C.III's entered into the WWI >page soon? Everyone has their own favorite ways to show the early CDL >and natural wood, it would be an interesting set of comparisons. Sounds like a good idea. Even before this thread I was hoping to get a start on my CIII within the next couple of weeks. Would love to see how close - or not so close - our respective woodgrains and CDL end up looking. As for the guns, I'll give the kit PE a try, but - just in case - I've got Aeroclub on standby... Mark ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 17:23:58 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: Re: New Subscriber Message-ID: <33D8467E.C2F@qld.mim.com.au> Mr James Gray in introducing himself remarked: > > I set my web browser on > "sturmovik" and it took me to a letter here by Mr. Bittner. You can blame > him. Take taht for granted. He's always the culprit. Nothing better to do when he finishes them teenie weenie planes. > I can't imagine that I can > contribute much (not that this will necissarily keep my mouth shut) but, as > the man said to Trotski, "I'm here to pick your brains". Not knowing what I'm talking about never stopped me! And for what it's worth, my brains are already pick(led). > Pardon the running on at the mouth, but I have three weeks of stuff I > have wanted to say or ask built up inside! Run on, run on. The list has been down and we all need another score. Seriously, I think that complaints about too much mail are vastly outweighed by complaints of too little. You have a question or comment, let it out man. > I dropped the stinking C.III two days ago, and took three hours just to (snip - usefull commentary on Eduard Alb C.III) Thanks for saving me, and probably half the list, from having the same problems. Or at least from running into them unwarned. I think that this is one of the best features of the list, and particularly thank those who post their "adventures" after completing a kit. > Pet Peeve; > Why are there umpty-ump models of the Fokker D.VIII but no good > injection molded Bristol Fighter? Now, which made more of an impact on the > war? Oh, so you are going to ask one newbie question ;-) The answer is obvious. It's because I've been scratchbuilding one for 2 1/2 years. You'll be happy to know I expect to finish before Christmas, so ask Santa for one of the kits sure to be released the next day. > I am sure you are tired of me by now, so I will depart. Have a good > evening, all. > You are welcome James. Post again, and often. We're all pretty windy, so you won't wait long for an answer. Regards Shane ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 17:24:05 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: Re: DETAIL FOR ENGINES Bristol Bulldog Jupiter VII F Message-ID: <33D84685.7492@qld.mim.com.au> David wrote: > > I'm finishing off A Bristol Bulldog but the pipes which come off the > front of the cowl just behind the prop out of the collector ring and > then curve and split into two to connect with each side of the top of > the cylinders are horrid little suckers to model Shall I tell him that the Bulldog is off topic?? (he-he) Or will I let him off, since it's a technique question and is probably relevant? Ah what the heck, I know he's not a letter of the Laws man (:-( did I really try that pun?) I take it that the problem isn't making ONE exhaust, but trying to make a bunch all the same? All I can suggest is trying to cast them in resin, and if the shape is curly enough they might be tough to remove from the mould. Or Aeroclub makes a replacement engine which is okay, and includes the collector ring and exhaust stubbs. Maybe it'd be worth trying one on for size, and if it looks okay, use the Aeroclub part to detail your scratchbuilt engine. > > I'm also having a spot of bother with the cylinder fairings. (snip description of parts) > What's the go ? Mould them solid and then excavate. I've tried thin > card but getting the wedge shape WITH the waist ( as I'm calling it ) > is a ruddy nightmare > Have you tried crash forming them over a male mould? I can't picture the proper shape (not WW1 and I don't have too comprehensive references) so it might be impractical. Another posibillity is laboriously forming them from thin aluminium sheet over a male mould. Miniature hammer forming, just like the real thing, but maybe impossible if the parts are too deep. No other bright ideas I'm afraid, except toss it on the back burner and build a "proper aeroplane" I have one reference. Scale Aircraft Modelling featured the Buldog in April 92. You may wish to borrow it. Regards Shane ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 17:23:49 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: wwi Subject: What if the server's down? Message-ID: <33D84670.53A6@qld.mim.com.au> Hi all, Okay, so we had another of those frightening events where the server goes down and until Al has time to fix it we all go into withdrawal quite as serious as any heroin addict. If you think the servers is down there's no point sending a post to the list ! It'll only confuse everyone if it isn't down, and fail to get a reply until the list is up again (at which point we all get a pile of "Is the list down" messages - from the list server) If you want to check, do two things. Send an email to wwi-request@pease1.sr.unh.edu no subject, and with review wwi in the body. If the list is up, but quiet, you'll get a nice list of all the subscribers in return, which you can peruse to see the names of all the other sods who for some reason just don't want to talk when YOU do. If you don't get an answer in about 10-15 minutes, the list might be down, or your email might be down. So do test #2. Send an email direct to someone you think will answer fairly promptly with some thoughtful comment in it like "Heeeelllp, is the list down, I'm Dying!". Not to the list server though - it might be down. If you get no answer, you might consider changing your deodorant, or your Internet Service Provider, or just maybe, the person you mailed is sleeeping or doing something radical like modelling. Don't panic. At this point (unless you're skiving off at work) get out a kit and do some modelling yourself. Then when the list returns to life - we'll all have something to talk about. Shane (My last "list down project" - Bristol Fighter - will probably see me through the outage at the end of time at the rate it's going) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:58:11 +0100 (BST) From: Sandy Adam To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Laminate prop painting Message-ID: On Wed, 23 Jul 1997, Jim Wallace wrote: > Aside from that, do any of the list members have any tips and tricks for > painting props to look laminated? For a 1/48 prop I find hand painting is the only solution - trying to get masking strips to curve around the hub convincingly was just too much for me. I reckon on an evening of eyeball crossing frustration for one prop and usually at the end of it I am fairly happy with the result. I select lighter and darker colours depending on the mood I am in, paint lighter shade overall, allow to dry then paint (thin) in the stripes where you will wish the centre line of the darker laminations to lie. I think about 6 or 8 striations looks right in this scale (and is achievable by me!) photos sometimes show more laminations but I don't think I could make them look convincing. Once you've got the centre lines mapped out, a steady hand and a lot of swearing will help fill in the width of the strip. This is where Anglo-Saxon ancestry helps enormously - good old-fashioned phrases like "bugger, bugger, bugger, bugger, bugger, ..." are much more suitable and satisfying than the Johnny-come-lately American variety that refer to things like unnatural congress with one's maternal parent. If you're skills are similar to mine, be prepared for a lot of touching in with the lighter colour, followed by re-touching darker colour, followed by.... Generally by the end of it, with Axial, or whatever, transfers applied and varnished it will turn heads at any show. Perhaps in 1/28, masking may be more successful - I must try bare-metal-foil sometime - maybe even only on blades? - ah ha thinks!!! HTH Sandy PS if you have a budgie or parrot in the same room, you will likely have it talking very quickly and very successfully - the vocabulary might be salty, but then for a parrot this would probably be most appropriate. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 05:32:08 -0400 (EDT) From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard Albatros C.III Message-ID: <970725053208_-590807547@emout13.mail.aol.com> In reference to the engine mounts, I mean the forward pair of the four engine bearers cast into the white metal engine. I had to trim these to get the engine to go far enough forward in the fusilage, and frankly I do not think I trimmed them enough. I did not understand your reference to the directions to trim these off, so I went down and looked at the directions again. Sure enough, there is a little "cut" symbol I had not seen. Rather than take the blame for my inattention, however, I will blame the instruction sheet and manufacturer, and curse the day when someone came up with these symbols. I remember when model directions were in English, as they should be. James D. Gray suvoroff@aol.com Bremerton, Wa ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 07:20:58 -0400 (EDT) From: Suvoroff@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: New Subscriber Message-ID: <970725072057_76306679@emout04.mail.aol.com> Shane; About your Bristol scratchbuild; Yes, I know, there are posts mentioning it back in the posts I have read in the 1995 era. I will be sorry for you if there is a good kit (Hasegawa?) of it come out soon, but not too sorry, it's one of my favorites, and mediocrities like me need good kits to make good models. James D. Gray suvoroff@aol.com Bremerton, WA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 07:58:41 -0400 From: "Denest, Michael J" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Test please dont read. Message-ID: Oh, a wise guy eh? ROFL >---------- >From: rboorman@cdsl.ca[SMTP:rboorman@cdsl.ca] >Sent: Thursday, July 24, 1997 6:22 PM >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Test please dont read. > >Well, I told you not to read! Just wanted to test mail was getting to me. > >Ray Boorman rboorman@cdsl.ca > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 08:20:31 -0400 (EDT) From: DavidL1217@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard Albatros C.III Message-ID: <970725082028_-624364528@emout16.mail.aol.com> Atlee resin sold through Rosemont has a CIII set for roughly US$5. It contains fuel hand pumps, starter generator, observier's seat and pilot's seat. A few of the items that do not do well in the 2 dimensional world of PE. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 08:23:14 -0400 From: "Denest, Michael J" To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Oshkosh b'gosh Message-ID: Bob, John should check out a Fairchild PT-19, -23 and -26 all owned by the same guy. My dad and brother will be there with them. I gotta work (sniff) :-( Mike Denest D&SG Helicopters Division Rapid Prototyping Center Building 3-29 Phone 1-610-591-4681 Fax 1-610-591-4444 e-mail to: michael.denest@PHL.boeing.com >---------- >From: Bob Pearson[SMTP:bpearson@kaien.com] >Sent: Thursday, July 24, 1997 11:30 PM >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Oshkosh b'gosh > > >Greetings all, > >Here is a note from Brad Gossen, unfortunately he has been unable to send >any email for the past week or so, but can still receive. So if any of you >have emailed him, that is the reason there is no reply (here I thought he >had found someone new and was just avoiding me). > >Brad would like me to tell any of you that are going to Oshkosh next week >that he will be working the Warbird line wearing the orange hat and John >Huggins' WW1 modelling group button. > >Bob Pearson > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 07:54:38 +0000 From: "Paul Schwartzkopf" To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard Albatros C.III Message-ID: <199707251257.HAA22931@tscrypt1.transcrypt.com> Mark wrote: > I also had to take about 1/16" out of the cockpit and engine area on > each side. I'm confused as to your problem, do you mean that the > trimming of the engine mounts on the white metal parts needs to be > more than shown in the instructions? It sounds like the plastic in your fuselage halves is thicker than my example. I have no problem getting the "inards" in when dry-fitting the fuselage together. My problem with the fit is that the whole interior assembly sets too far aft in the fuselage. The seats don't fit underneath the cockpit openings; any munchkin pilot would have a "roof" over his head if he sat in the seats. As far as the height of the engine (protruding from the fuselage), right now it looks okay, but I am just in the initial stages of construction. Paul A. Schwartzkopf =================================================================== Development Engineer--Software Transcrypt International, Inc. Telephone: (402) 474-4800 E-Mail: pauls@transcrypt.com =================================================================== ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 623 *********************