WWI Digest 508 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Dull vs Glossy Finishes by Pedro Soares 2) Swap'n'Shop by Graham Nash 3) Re: IPMS Judging by "Erik" 4) Re: Gotha Photoetch by "Bill Ciciora" 5) Re: books by Carlos Valdes 6) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Kevin Wenker 7) Re: Newbie (please be gentle) by JimAlley@aol.com 8) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Alberto Rada 9) German crosses. by Geoff Smith 10) Newbie II by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 11) Robert re Alb.C.III Refs by Patrick Padovan 12) Meikraft kits by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 13) Re: IPMS Judging by mbittner@juno.com 14) Re: Alb. C.III and wee small people by mbittner@juno.com 15) Re: German crosses. by mbittner@juno.com 16) Re: Meikraft kits by mbittner@juno.com 17) Re: Robert re Alb.C.III Refs by mbittner@juno.com 18) Re: Gotha Photoetch by jsthorn@clt.mindspring.com (Jesse Thorn) 19) re:Re: Your Basic non-Joe Camel by BStett3770@aol.com 20) reRe: Meikraft kits by BStett3770@aol.com 21) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Kevin Wenker 22) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Kevin Wenker 23) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 24) Re: Gotha Photoetch by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 25) Re: Your Basic non-Joe Camel by Michelle and Rory Goodwin 26) Re: Gotha Photoetch by mbittner@juno.com 27) Re: IPMS Judging by "Erik" 28) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Kevin Wenker 29) Re: Gotha Photoetch by Kevin Wenker ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 16:45:39 +0200 From: Pedro Soares To: wwi Subject: Re: Dull vs Glossy Finishes Message-ID: <335F7212.4317@anaep.pt> The Shannons wrote: > > Sandy Adam wrote: > > > > > > > > 1.) What IS the accurate finish for WW I aircraft? Glossy or dull or a > > > combination? > > > Fernando Lamas > > Adding my $0.02U.S., I have gone by a generalization of a statement in a > "Scale Models" article about the Spad and Jaune Clair. I don't have the > reference right in front of me, but it stated that the aluminized yellow > dope on the wings quickly lost its sheen and turned flat, while the > unaluminized paint on the metal areas retained its sheen longer -- > giving a semi-gloss and flat contrast. When I've extended this > reasoning to other planes, I've been pleased with the look. > Hi Mark, As you know I'm not an expert on anything, much less on WW1 aircraft finishes but in my recent visit to The french aeronautique museum , at Le Bourget, I was able to take a peep of a SPAD in the french aluminized multi colour scheme, and I completely agree with you. As a matter of fact, what stricked me the most was the way that the aluminium showed through, giving the aircraft a truly metalized look. As such the finish did not look gloss but metalized (something somewhere in between gloss and flat) and I'd tend to represent it as a semi-flat finish on a model. Full gloss for me would be completely out of the question, since I believe it just doesn't look right.(the more so in 1/72nd). I hope that once Al puts my photos on the WW1 modeling pages you'll be able to better understand the point I'm trying to raise. On the other hand the green cowling on this particular a/c was absolutely gloss. Still, in 1/72nd, I believe this would translate into a more subdued finish. High gloss, at least for me looks way to gloss, if you know what I mean. One point worth of notice is the fact that this aircraft was probably repainted not that long ago so there is no way of knowing if those responsible for the reconstruction did really get it right. As a rule of thumb I'd say that painted metal panels and wood covered panels would be gloss while fabric covered surfaces would retain a dullish sheen, somewhere in between semi-mat and full mat. As far as model finishing goes I'd finish metal panels in buffed metalizing paints, gloss paint on metal panels in semi-mat paint and fabric covered portions in a more dulled finish, trying not to achieve a full mat finish. Wish I could be more clear but my linguistic limitations won't go that far. My Portuguese 20 centavos on this matter and I'd appreciate the views of others on this question. Pedro ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 16:51:53 -0700 From: Graham Nash To: wwi Subject: Swap'n'Shop Message-ID: <199704241551.AA26138@egate2.citicorp.com> Come on you guys. I know nobody thinks they want to swap what they've got, but from e-mails I've had with Alberto and Sandy on the list, I know that we all WANT something or the other. So, come out of the (modelling) closet, and let people see how many more references they've got than you have. Regards (Green eyed with jealously over that Eiserne Kruez book) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 08:51:25 +0000 From: "Erik" To: wwi Subject: Re: IPMS Judging Message-ID: <199704241553.IAA04474@glinda.oz.net> On 24 Apr 97, mbittner@juno.com heroically postulated: > What I would like to see is some of the historians judge once the > models have been eliminated due to basic flaws. Once those > models with no modeling flaws have been established, then bring > in Peter Kilduff, or Greg VW, or whomever may be there at the > time, and have them judge how historically correct the model is. > That would be ultimate! Then you can really be proud that your > model not only passed the "modeling test", but also the > "historical test", as well. Hear hear! An excellent idea. Not only would this give better results at the time, but those who judge (and it does seem that they tend to keep judging) would naturally be looking on, and learn more about the subject matter, making them better judges. And so forth. Good brain action, Matt.... Cheers, Erik ........................................................................ "Mr.Anchovy, perhaps you could move *towards* 'Lion Taming' via Banking, or even Insurance?..." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 11:20:16 -0500 From: "Bill Ciciora" To: Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: Kevin W. wrote: > BTW - how will that DH-10a look with Gotha photoetchings :-) Heh heh! Actually, I'd like to contract with you to produce a DH-10A photoetch set too. I'll look at both models and write down lists of parts that would make good photoetch candidates. If the list wants us to take this offline, let us know. However, I'd be interested in other folks input. Bill Ciciora PBSS Tech Support 800-283-1527 bciciora@pitneysoft.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 12:31:05 -0400 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi Subject: Re: books Message-ID: <2.2.16.19970424113120.4faf27f6@conted.swann.gatech.edu> Charles, It wasn't cheap. I got it for $60; it came indirectly from Aeroplane Books. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 11:50:59 -0700 From: Kevin Wenker To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <335FAB92.7320@interaccess.com> Bill Ciciora wrote: > > Kevin W. wrote: > > > BTW - how will that DH-10a look with Gotha photoetchings :-) > > Heh heh! Actually, I'd like to contract with you to produce a DH-10A > photoetch set too. I'll look at both models and write down lists of parts > that would make good photoetch candidates. > > If the list wants us to take this offline, let us know. However, I'd be > interested in other folks input. > > Bill Ciciora > PBSS Tech Support > 800-283-1527 > bciciora@pitneysoft.com Any and everyone's input would be welcome. I don't mind contributing my time and would only look for cost of materials. I'll put up a review of the etcher tonight. If a few of us can get together and share resources to produce some photoetchings for kits we are building, that is fine with me. So, who has input concerning a Gotha V and - what was it, Bill, a DH-10a (VBG). BTW, where'd you get the DH-10a kit????? I presume this is 1/48 scale - the only real scale to work in. And, on the other hand, who else would like to see etchings for what? Now, mind you all, I am no draftsman, so if we can trade draft ready 'artwork' for finished etchings, even better. Kevin W. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 14:31:34 -0400 (EDT) From: JimAlley@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Newbie (please be gentle) Message-ID: <970424143132_775950387@emout09.mail.aol.com> Thanks to those who answered my decal questions with nary a snicker. I have in my possession a number of publications that I've been carrying around for years: Profile Publications, printed in England, marked with a cover price of "two shillings." I don't even remember where or when I bought them. Each is 12 pages and devoted to one aircraft. Inside front and back are printed in color, with the inside a five-view and the back showing side views of eight or so different markings/mods. The rest of the publication consists of text and photos. I must have -- oh -- 20 or so of them. Are these still available? Does anyone know of a master list? I'd be happy to publish the list of titles in my possession if there's interest. > As an aside, howcum Al got sick and the list went down at > _exactly_ the same time? Coincidence? I think not! I > suspect a mutated computer virus which was at last able to > cross the machine/man barrier. Very suspicious! Are we sure Al is an organic being, or could he be a clever Turing machine? Has anyone met him in person? Are we sure it's "A-L" and not "A-One?" Jim Alley (V. 3.0) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 15:51:12 -0400 (AST) From: Alberto Rada To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <199704241951.PAA14636@fw.true.net> The photoetch for the Gotha you are making is in the superb 1/48 scale, if so I will certainly want to buy one SALUDOS ALBERTO At 12:55 PM 24-04-97 -0400, you wrote: >Bill Ciciora wrote: >> >> Kevin W. wrote: >> >> > BTW - how will that DH-10a look with Gotha photoetchings :-) >> >> Heh heh! Actually, I'd like to contract with you to produce a DH-10A >> photoetch set too. I'll look at both models and write down lists of parts >> that would make good photoetch candidates. >> >> If the list wants us to take this offline, let us know. However, I'd be >> interested in other folks input. >> >> Bill Ciciora >> PBSS Tech Support >> 800-283-1527 >> bciciora@pitneysoft.com > >Any and everyone's input would be welcome. I don't mind contributing my >time and would only look for cost of materials. I'll put up a review of >the etcher tonight. If a few of us can get together and share resources >to produce some photoetchings for kits we are building, that is fine >with me. > >So, who has input concerning a Gotha V and - what was it, Bill, a DH-10a >(VBG). BTW, where'd you get the DH-10a kit????? I presume this is 1/48 >scale - the only real scale to work in. > >And, on the other hand, who else would like to see etchings for what? >Now, mind you all, I am no draftsman, so if we can trade draft ready >'artwork' for finished etchings, even better. >Kevin W. > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 16:53:51 -0400 From: Geoff Smith To: LIST Subject: German crosses. Message-ID: <199704241653_MC2-14E9-59E3@compuserve.com> Hi Guys, Can someone please advise me on the colours of German crosses? Alright, I know, black and white,but keep reading. The black part is pretty unambiguous but what about the "white". On most of the decals I have it's more of a cream colour and these aren't old ones that have gone off. Should they show as true white on the full size thing or would a top coat of varnish have yellowed them? I realize this is nitpicking but it occurred to me that possibly the decals are more correct than I at first thought. Geoff. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 15:33:11 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Newbie II Message-ID: Jim Alley (V. 3.0) writes: >I have in my possession a number of publications that I've been carrying >around for years: Profile Publications, printed in England, marked with a >cover price of "two shillings." I don't even remember where or when I >bought them. Each is 12 pages and devoted to one aircraft. Inside front >and back are printed in color, with the inside a five-view and the back >showing side views of eight or so different markings/mods. The rest of >the publication consists of text and photos. I must have -- oh -- 20 or >so of them. Are these still available? Does anyone know of a master list? >I'd be happy to publish the list of titles in my possession if there's >interest. These probably haven't been in print in 20 years at least. A total of 262 (263??) individual titles were produced, eventually all were also distrbuted in bound volumes containing between 12 and 25 profiles. There is something on the order of 15 or 16 bound volumes, I don't know exactly, I only have a few of them. FWIW the going price for an individual profile in book or hobby shops is between US$5.00 and 6.00, sometimes less. Bound Profile volumes are found for US$25.00-30.00, though I've never paid that much for one. Didn't someone on this list type out all the Profile and Datafile titles which Al later posted on the Web page ?? Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 14:38:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Patrick Padovan To: wwi Subject: Robert re Alb.C.III Refs Message-ID: Robert: I have a copy of the datafile I'd be happy to lend you. Send your ground mail address, and I'll mail it off to you. Maybe you could note any problems/tips/etc. you encounter in building your C.III, and post them on this list? I have one waiting in my "to do someday eventually" box. Also, a couple of the 1/72 Miekraft C.IIIs in there, too. Incidentally, does anyone know if Miekraft is still producing kits? It's been a while since I heard of any releases from him. Regards, Patrick P.S. Doesn't ANYONE have any opinions about WWI a/c finishes? (Joke, deadpan mode!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Patrick Padovan Interlibrary Loan Associate Timberland Regional Library Voice: 360-943-5001 415 Airdustrial Way SW FAX: 360-586-6838 Olympia, WA 98501-5799 e-mail: ppadovan@timberland.lib.wa.us ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 15:56:23 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Meikraft kits Message-ID: Patrick writes: > I have one waiting in my "to do someday eventually" box. Also, >a couple of the 1/72 Miekraft C.IIIs in there, too. > Incidentally, does anyone know if Miekraft is still producing kits? >It's been a while since I heard of any releases from him. I think that you will find the prevailing attitude among 1/72 builders on this list is do NOT send Meikraft money for kits, buy them from someone that has them on their shelf. I think that Matt has the record, or nearly so, for length of time required for delivery of a pre-paid kit from this concern. My US$0.02 worth. Charles ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 18:06:15 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: IPMS Judging Message-ID: <19970424.181404.16510.6.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Apr 1997 12:03:03 -0400 "Erik" writes: > Hear hear! An excellent idea. Not only would this give better > results at the time, but those who judge (and it does seem that > they tend to keep judging) would naturally be looking on, and > learn more about the subject matter, making them better judges. > And so forth. > Good brain action, Matt.... Thanks, Erik. I knew I had to get it out before it died of lonliness...;-) Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 18:05:09 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Alb. C.III and wee small people Message-ID: <19970424.181404.16510.5.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Apr 1997 10:04:39 -0400 Sandy Adam writes: > BTW my e-mail includes dates and times on messages and I don't > know if these are from source - or time arriving my local server > but I couldn't help notice the time on your message, Matt was > 5:52 (am!). Does this mean you are a wee small hours modeller > as well as a wee small scale modeller? Yep, guilty as charged. Having an almost-two year old running around, I don't have a lot of time at night to model. So, I get up earlier to do my "wee modeling", even though I'm currently working on the Eduard D.V. (Gads, I don't need tweezers for this sucker!) > Sandy (Big Time Modeller) Sounds like a personal problem. ;-) Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 18:07:37 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: German crosses. Message-ID: <19970424.181404.16510.7.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Apr 1997 16:58:30 -0400 Geoff Smith writes: > Can someone please advise me on the colours of German crosses? > Alright, I know, black and white,but keep reading. The black > part is pretty unambiguous but what about the "white". On most > of the decals I have it's more of a cream colour and these > aren't old ones that have gone off. Should they show as true > white on the full size thing or would a top coat of varnish have > yellowed them? I realize this is nitpicking but it occurred to > me that possibly the decals are more correct than I at first > thought. I think you have something there, Geoff. I would agree that if the fabric weathered, why wouldn't the painted on crosses? Interesting. Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 18:13:17 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Meikraft kits Message-ID: <19970424.181404.16510.9.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Apr 1997 17:59:01 -0400 hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) writes: > I think that you will find the prevailing attitude among 1/72 > builders on this list is do NOT send Meikraft money for kits, > buy them from someone that has them on their shelf. I think > that Matt has the record, or nearly so, for length of time > required for delivery of a pre-paid kit from this concern. Trust Charles on this. Do *NOT* send Meikraft money. Wait until Rosemont, Sopwith or Roll gets them in. After waiting *FOUR* plus years for my Lloyd Triplane, I will never again buy direct from Meikraft. However, be aware that although I really don't like Meikrantz' policies, his kits aren't bad, especially the later ones (the Pfalz D.III/IIIa and later). Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 18:10:41 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Robert re Alb.C.III Refs Message-ID: <19970424.181404.16510.8.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Apr 1997 17:40:29 -0400 Patrick Padovan writes: > Robert: I have a copy of the datafile I'd be happy to lend you. > Send your ground mail address, and I'll mail it off to you. > Maybe you could note any problems/tips/etc. you encounter in > building your C.III, and post them on this list? I have one > waiting in my "to do someday eventually" box. Also, a couple of > the 1/72 Miekraft C.IIIs in there, too. A couple? Only a *couple*? What's wrong with you? ;-) > Incidentally, does anyone know if Miekraft is still producing > kits? It's been a while since I heard of any releases from > him. The last release I know of from him was the Fokker D.I and A-H version. I have not heard anything else coming from him for awhile. In a way a loss, but after the fiasco with the next message from me, I'm not too upset. Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 20:21:25 -0400 (EDT) From: jsthorn@clt.mindspring.com (Jesse Thorn) To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: >Bill Ciciora wrote: >So, who has input concerning a Gotha V and - Since Sierra Scale recently announced the end of its WWI kit production, does that mean we won't be getting a 1/48th Gotha G.V vacuform kit this year?!?!?!! Tell me it's not true! --Jesse ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 20:42:59 -0400 (EDT) From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: re:Re: Your Basic non-Joe Camel Message-ID: <970424204250_-199415850@emout02.mail.aol.com> Yes the Last issue I know of was Revell Germany. U.S. Issue from Monogram was some time in the 80"s. Still see some of them at the swap meets around $20 Barry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 21:14:28 -0400 (EDT) From: BStett3770@aol.com To: wwi Subject: reRe: Meikraft kits Message-ID: <970424211427_-1836098321@emout01.mail.aol.com> Meikraft is still around, well at least he calls me every two weeks or so to tell me his plans. Then calls me to tell of his change in plans etc. If any of you want kits watch my or the other shop lists. At this time we have none - his last was the Fokker D-1 & B-III kits 1/72. When he really makes something I'll put it on the list. And if I list it that means he really sent me some. I will not list his dreams. Barry Rosemont Hobby ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 20:40:30 -0500 From: Kevin Wenker To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <33600B8E.700B@interaccess.com> Alberto Rada wrote: > > The photoetch for the Gotha you are making is in the > superb 1/48 scale, if so I will certainly want to buy one > > SALUDOS > > ALBERTO > > At 12:55 PM 24-04-97 -0400, you wrote: > >Bill Ciciora wrote: > >> OK, I guess I'm doing the Gotha V photoetch set. I have no idea what will be involved or what it will cost. Let's work that out later. What I do need is if someone will photocopy or lend me the Windsock on the Gotha and any other pics or drawings. All non photocopies will be returned. Quite frankly, I would rather make this a collective effort rather than sell them - so, if you want a set, participate. My address is below. I'll keep you all informed as to the progress of what I receive, what I am doing and how it is going. Lat me know what you folks think on this, ok? Kevin Wenker 9218 Whitehall Ln Orland Park, IL 60462 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 20:47:33 -0500 From: Kevin Wenker To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <33600D35.2B33@interaccess.com> The photoetcher is an Auto-Etch. It retails for $129. Has a full set of instructions. Is a neat box contraption into which you insert a 6" X 8" piece of .005 or .010 brass or nickel-silver sheet. First you make a 3X drawing in which all material NOT to be etched is colored black. The drawing is then reduced and a mylar copy made. Expose this for a length of time under bright light and place in Auto-Etch. Auto-etch uses Radio Shack etchant - it heats it and distributes it across the brass sheet. About 15-20 minutes later out comes the results. Pretty impressive results too. Procedures for doing double sided and layered depth etching. I was so impressed, I bought it. Got tired of looking for full sets designed for other planes which might have 1 or 2 pieces I could use. Instructions are very good. Good tech support, too. Any other details anyone needs, let me know. Oh, I saw this originally at a Model Railroad shop (yea, I do that, too - but only steamers. No growling pests in my home!!). Kevin W. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 19:08:54 -0700 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <33601236.3E8E@ricochet.net> Kevin Wenker wrote: > > Bill Ciciora wrote: > > > > Kevin W. wrote: > > > > > BTW - how will that DH-10a look with Gotha photoetchings :-) > > > > Heh heh! Actually, I'd like to contract with you to produce a DH-10A > > photoetch set too. I'll look at both models and write down lists of parts > > that would make good photoetch candidates. > > > > If the list wants us to take this offline, let us know. However, I'd be > > interested in other folks input. > > > > Bill Ciciora > > PBSS Tech Support > > 800-283-1527 > > bciciora@pitneysoft.com > > Any and everyone's input would be welcome. I don't mind contributing my > time and would only look for cost of materials. I'll put up a review of > the etcher tonight. If a few of us can get together and share resources > to produce some photoetchings for kits we are building, that is fine > with me. > > So, who has input concerning a Gotha V and - what was it, Bill, a DH-10a > (VBG). BTW, where'd you get the DH-10a kit????? I presume this is 1/48 > scale - the only real scale to work in. > > And, on the other hand, who else would like to see etchings for what? > Now, mind you all, I am no draftsman, so if we can trade draft ready > 'artwork' for finished etchings, even better. > Kevin W. I have the Datafile, Profile, plenty of out-of-date plans and a scrapbook on the Gotha, so I can supply the drawings for this project. How about gun 'rings' bomb racks & fins and control cranks/horns? Actually, a set of munchkin scale bomb fins would be handy as well. What about an AEG G.III/IV set? Riordan -- Shelley and Riordan Goodwin Visit our websites: Riordan's Wings of Revolution: http://www.serve.com/rgoodwin Shelley's Jewelry Gifts: http://www.silkroadjewels.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 20:21:43 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: >The photoetcher is an Auto-Etch. It retails for $129. Has a full set >of instructions. Is a neat box contraption into which you insert a 6" X >8" piece of .005 or .010 brass or nickel-silver sheet. First you make a >3X drawing in which all material NOT to be etched is colored black. The >drawing is then reduced and a mylar copy made. Expose this for a length >of time under bright light and place in Auto-Etch. > >Auto-etch uses Radio Shack etchant - it heats it and distributes it >across the brass sheet. About 15-20 minutes later out comes the >results. Pretty impressive results too. Procedures for doing double >sided and layered depth etching. I was so impressed, I bought it. Got >tired of looking for full sets designed for other planes which might >have 1 or 2 pieces I could use. > >Instructions are very good. Good tech support, too. Any other details >anyone needs, let me know. Oh, I saw this originally at a Model >Railroad shop (yea, I do that, too - but only steamers. No growling >pests in my home!!). This is all very interesting. Having used a similar process for photographic type processing for silk screen patterns I would suggest that you keep a couple of things in mind. The art that you will use for exposing the Auto-Etch material should be a good quality litho-type film that makes a dense solid black image with sharp edges. This will enable the exposed brass sheets to produce nice clean outlines on the edges of the etched parts. The other thing is that you should pay particular attention to the type of light used to expose the Auto-Etch material. At the very least you should probably use a tungsten photoflood type bulb, available at most camera stores, these are about $10.00 each. They will provide the wavelength of light needed to properly expose the Auto-Etch material. Also you will want to use a sheet of glass to put the artwork in tight contact with the brass sheet in order to make a clean exposure on the Auto-Etch. If you have any friends locally that do photography, you might want to talk with them about making "contact prints", because this is essentially what you are making on each of these brass sheets. Good luck. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 19:10:51 -0700 From: Michelle and Rory Goodwin To: wwi Subject: Re: Your Basic non-Joe Camel Message-ID: <336012AB.7E68@ricochet.net> BStett3770@aol.com wrote: > > Yes the Last issue I know of was Revell Germany. > > U.S. Issue from Monogram was some time in the 80"s. > > Still see some of them at the swap meets around $20 > > Barry Not really worth 20 bones...I'd go with the Smer version if you can find it. Riordan -- Shelley and Riordan Goodwin Visit our websites: Riordan's Wings of Revolution: http://www.serve.com/rgoodwin Shelley's Jewelry Gifts: http://www.silkroadjewels.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 21:21:14 -0500 From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <19970424.212815.16526.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Thu, 24 Apr 1997 21:45:19 -0400 Kevin Wenker writes: > OK, I guess I'm doing the Gotha V photoetch set. I have no idea > what will be involved or what it will cost. Let's work that out > later. What I do need is if someone will photocopy or lend me > the Windsock on the Gotha and any other pics or drawings. All > non photocopies will be returned. Quite frankly, I would rather > make this a collective effort rather than sell them - so, if you > want a set, participate. My address is below. I'll keep you > all informed as to the progress of what I receive, what I am > doing and how it is going. > > Lat me know what you folks think on this, ok? I think that if you plan on reducing them to 1/72nd, I will let you borrom my Gotha Windsock Special. If you did do it in 1/72nd as well, I would buy at least one set, and I'm sure others who build in the Correct Scale would buy it as well. Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 19:41:23 +0000 From: "Erik" To: wwi Subject: Re: IPMS Judging Message-ID: <199704250243.TAA19079@glinda.oz.net> On 24 Apr 97, mbittner@juno.com heroically postulated: > Thanks, Erik. I knew I had to get it out before it died of > lonliness...;-) > A HA! See.... it's all those blasphemous deviations from The True Way having an effect on your mental powers....! Balloons, BE GONE! Cheers, Erik ........................................................................ "Mr.Anchovy, perhaps you could move *towards* 'Lion Taming' via Banking, or even Insurance?..." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 22:22:11 -0500 From: Kevin Wenker To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <33602363.7258@interaccess.com> Michelle and Rory Goodwin wrote: > I have the Datafile, Profile, plenty of out-of-date plans and a > scrapbook on the Gotha, so I can supply the drawings for this project. > How about gun 'rings' bomb racks & fins and control cranks/horns? > Actually, a set of munchkin scale bomb fins would be handy as well. > What about an AEG G.III/IV set? > > Riordan > -- Whoa....one at a time, guys. Gotha first, if that works, we'll go from there. I was also thinking of the side engine nacelle panels with the louvers and inspection panels. Also the top of the scarfe ring. Then instrument panel, rudder pedals, bomb release, gas tank mounts, radiator parts, control horns, control assembly on the outside of the fuselage. The drawings and so forth would be great. And here I was starting on my Los Angeles Flt III RC sub this weekend. Me and my big mouth. OK, we're a go for this. Kevin W. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Apr 1997 22:24:14 -0500 From: Kevin Wenker To: wwi Subject: Re: Gotha Photoetch Message-ID: <336023DE.7DAA@interaccess.com> Charles Hart wrote: > > >The photoetcher is an Auto-Etch. It retails for $129. Has a full set > >of instructions. Is a neat box contraption into which you insert a 6" X > >8" piece of .005 or .010 brass or nickel-silver sheet. First you make a > >3X drawing in which all material NOT to be etched is colored black. The > >drawing is then reduced and a mylar copy made. Expose this for a length > >of time under bright light and place in Auto-Etch. > > > >Auto-etch uses Radio Shack etchant - it heats it and distributes it > >across the brass sheet. About 15-20 minutes later out comes the > >results. Pretty impressive results too. Procedures for doing double > >sided and layered depth etching. I was so impressed, I bought it. Got > >tired of looking for full sets designed for other planes which might > >have 1 or 2 pieces I could use. > > > >Instructions are very good. Good tech support, too. Any other details > >anyone needs, let me know. Oh, I saw this originally at a Model > >Railroad shop (yea, I do that, too - but only steamers. No growling > >pests in my home!!). > > This is all very interesting. Having used a similar process for > photographic type processing for silk screen patterns I would suggest that > you keep a couple of things in mind. > > The art that you will use for exposing the Auto-Etch material should > be a good quality litho-type film that makes a dense solid black image with > sharp edges. This will enable the exposed brass sheets to produce nice > clean outlines on the edges of the etched parts. The other thing is that > you should pay particular attention to the type of light used to expose the > Auto-Etch material. At the very least you should probably use a tungsten > photoflood type bulb, available at most camera stores, these are about > $10.00 each. They will provide the wavelength of light needed to properly > expose the Auto-Etch material. Also you will want to use a sheet of glass > to put the artwork in tight contact with the brass sheet in order to make a > clean exposure on the Auto-Etch. > > If you have any friends locally that do photography, you might want to > talk with them about making "contact prints", because this is essentially > what you are making on each of these brass sheets. > > Good luck. > > Charles > > hartc@spot.colorado.edu Thanks Charles. That is exactly what the instructions say to do. I've got the bulb and the glass, and I've lined up the place (architectural firm) to do the prints. Now I better go buy a straightedge (VBG). Kevin W. ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 508 *********************