WWI Digest 435 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 1/48 Liberty Engine? by alfb@sn.no (Alf Bakken) 2) Re: Vac-Form Kits. by mbittner@juno.com 3) WW1 armor by mbittner@juno.com 4) Rib replication by mbittner@juno.com 5) 1/72nd Revell Nieuport 28 by mbittner@juno.com 6) Re: 1/48 Liberty Engine? by "Bill Ciciora" 7) Friday, 16 February 1917, Raoenel near St Just by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" 8) Thursday, 15 February 1917, Raoenel near St Just by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 18:03:31 +0100 (MET) From: alfb@sn.no (Alf Bakken) To: wwi Subject: Re: 1/48 Liberty Engine? Message-ID: <199702161703.SAA05875@mail1.sn.no> >On Sat, 15 Feb 1997 21:13:16 -0500 "Bill Ciciora" > writes: > >> Does Tom's Modelworks or any of the other aftermarket vendors >> make a 1/48 Liberty engine? I've been trying to see how much >> work it would be to fix the engines in the Aurora DH-10 kit >> (considerable), and the right price might sway me to go >> aftermarket. Roll Models? Sopwith Hobbies? I feel a mild case of >> Advanced Modeller Syndrome coming on. > >I think I remember seeing in either the latest Scale Models or >SAM, that Aeroclub is releasing one. There are two things I'm >not sure of, though: what scale, and if it's available now. > >Can any others help? > > >Matt >mbittner@juno.com > > Snip from the latest "Aeronews"-flyer from Aeroclub: E070 Liberty V.12 engine (1/72) =A32.30 E423 Liberty V.12 engine (1/48) =A33.50 Alf =20 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 12:11:04 EST From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Vac-Form Kits. Message-ID: <19970216.111340.13422.0.mbittner@juno.com> On Sat, 15 Feb 1997 22:32:21 -0500 vprice@Sydney2.world.net (Vincent Price) writes: > I just picked up a few vac-form kits and I'm wondering if anyone > has had any experience or knows how accurate they are. > > Blue Rider Fiat/Savoia-Pomilio F5B > Blue Rider Bleriot X1-2 Artillerie > Blue Rider Nieuport Nightjar > Phoenix Caudron G.IV > Xtravac Albatros JII > Xtravac Albatros CIX > Xtravac Albatros CXV You generally can't go wrong with any of these. I have all the Xtravac ones, as well as the Phoenix and BR Bleriot. I'm impressed with all of them. Eduard got their photoetch Fokker E.III idea from the Bleriot, since it includes all photoetch for the back part of the fuselage. They're all "complete"; granted, you still have to fashion the struts yourself. However, you won't be dissatisfied. As far as accurate, since I haven't built any, I have to idea. Just be aware that all of these are the only models you can find of these a/c. I've heard that Skybirds 86 is coming out with at least the Albatros C.XV, but you'll pay probably three times the cost that you paid for the Xtravac. Also be aware that they're all "out of production". So, get them while you can. What I can't figure out is that you didn't but the Xtravac D.III? ;-) Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 13:53:40 EST From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: WW1 armor Message-ID: <19970216.125519.14334.0.mbittner@juno.com> In taking a break from spraying the "yellow" on the bottom of the Nie.28, I turned on the TV, tuned in to The Discovery Channel, and they're running a series called "Fields of Armor". It started at 12:30pm Eastern time. This appears to be the first of the series and deals with the "birth" of the tank, as well as how it came to be in WW1. Some wonderful footage of not only the "Heavy" tanks, but there were a couple shots of "Medium's", or Whippet's. Unfortunately, they showed "Mother" and called it "Little Willie" (which was the predecesor to "Mother"), so it's not flawless. Plus, it only dealt with the British side, and said nothing else about any other sides' tanks. However, if you do have a few Airfix "Mk.II"s, or Emhar's Mk.IV's laying around, try to catch it. You'll be glad you did. Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 13:53:40 EST From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: Rib replication Message-ID: <19970216.125519.14334.1.mbittner@juno.com> I've been hinting around at this for awhile. Now that the paint is drying on the first color of the Nie.28, I thought I would type it up. I had a dilemma, since I cut out and wanted to reposition the ailerons on the Nie.28. After I cut them out, I "thought" the original ailerons were a bit small, so I decided to scratch them out of sheet plastic. However, the rib representation on the Nie.28 left me with a unique dilemma: how to get the ribs on the new ailerons to look like the ones in the kit. At first, Erik Pilawskii gave me a hint to use nylon thread (called "invisible thread", and available at fabric-type shops (Northwest Fabrics, for example)) and, using CA, blend the nylon thread "ribs" into the surface of the wing, or aileron. His tip called for using your finger to smooth out the CA on the sides of the "rib". Well, I tried it and wasn't happy with the results. Then I read that others have been using Liquid Paper (LP) to fill in sink holes and some seams. I thought I would give this a try. It didn't work, because for one thing the LP was too thick, and it dried too quickly. Also, I was unable to blend it into the aileron (not the rib) smoothly. It always left a ridge, no matter how I tried to sand it. I then remembered a tip from a while back (I think it was in an FSM article) on how an individual replicated ribs using thin, narrow chart tape, and a gloss overcoat. I decided to try this using the nylon thread, instead of the chart tape. I used Testor's lacquer clear gloss out of the spray can. It worked wonderfully for me on the first aileron. When I tried it on the second, I couldn't get it to work. Here's what I found: 1. You still need to apply - to a lesser degree - the "Pilawskii-method", i.e. using a bead of CA, blend in the nylon thread to the wing/aileron. It doesn't matter if it's extremely smooth (aka, "perfect"), but the thread does need to be blended in "good enough". The gloss coat tends to get under the nylon thread, defeating the purpose of trying to get it to blend the thread into the wing/aileron. 2. Make sure you use "heavy" and "wet" coats of clear gloss. Not too heavy, and not too light. 3. My best recommendation is to experiment first. In other words, experiment, experiment, experiment. I hope others can use this method for replicating ribs. This method is great for replicating the "heavy sag" of some wings in between the ribs. Good luck!! Matt mbittner@juno.com nb: Revell Nieuport 28 nu: Eduard Albatros D.V (gads, that sucker's HUGE) np: National Public Radio, "Thistle and Shamrock", a show of and about Celtic music; the last song played was "Stor, A Stor, A Ghra" by Altan nr: _Lasher_ by Anne Rice ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 13:53:40 EST From: mbittner@juno.com To: wwi Subject: 1/72nd Revell Nieuport 28 Message-ID: <19970216.125519.14334.2.mbittner@juno.com> Since I'm in the process of painting the Revell Nieuport 28, I thought I would share my "experiences" with the model. Overall, the model is accurate. There are only a couple areas of inaccuracy, easily corrected. First of all, be sure to remove *all* of the bogus "fabric weave". Not only does it not belong, it looks rather "stupid". Wings, upper: This is one area that has some inaccuracies, depending on what drawings you go with. Since I decided to go with the Datafile drawings, I decided to perform one of the corrections. The top wing is about .5 mm short on both tips, plus is about .5mm to narrow. Since this was so miniscule, I decided not to correct it. However, the cockpit cutout is way to "deep", so I decided to add sheet plastic to build it up. Again, I used the Datafile's drawings as reference. Wings, lower: The lower wing is practically spot on. It suffers the same length problem as the upper; again, so miniscule as not to correct. I did decide to cut out and reposition the ailerons (which are in the lower wing, BTW). I used some flat brass cut to length and width which came from one of the photoetch sheets I own for the hinges. I cut out "slots" in the wing to mount the hinges in, and glue them in with superglue. Once in - and secured - I round off the outer edge (the edge of the hinge that goes "into" the aileron). Initially, after I cut out the ailerons, I removed too much plastic and had to build up the area with sheet. In not thinking properly, I scratched new ailerons before adding this new sheet to the wing. After having problems with the second scratched aileron, I thought I would see if the original ailerons would work with the "packed out" wings. They do, so I spent all that time scratching ailerons for nothing. ;-) Fuselage, cockpit: Since I had the Airwaves photoetch set, I decided to use this for cockpit parts. Not a good decision, since the "tub" that forms the sides and "floor" of the cockpit was too wide. I cut the "floor" from the sides, mounted those sides in, and added a new "floor" out of plastic rod (it's not really a floor, but cross pieces between the cockpit sides). I did use the rudder pedals, and the foot rest under the rudder bar from the Airwaves set. I also used the seat, but as it comes on the Airwaves sheet, it's much too big, as it would stick out of the cockpit. So, after cutting down, I did use it with the Airwaves seat belts. I painted the fuselage cockpit sides a medium gray, along with the plastic rod floor, and control column. The Airwaves sides were painted "brown" to replicate wood, as well as the rudder bar "floor". Fuselage, general: As was mentioned earlier, be sure to remove all "fabric weave", which includes between the ribs of the fuselage. Sand down the ribs, as well as the cockpit coaming, as they're a bit "too much". I ended up sanding off the molded in "venturi tube", and plan on scratching a new one and adding later. The lower part of the fuselage where the landing struts meet the forward part of the fuselage is all wrong. Revell has it as a round piece, where they would have you enter a mounting pin on the landing gear struts. This area should be concave, and your best bet is to study the Datafile for the correct shape. Also, believe it or not, the Glencoe kit has this correct, so you could also use this *as reference* . Tail surface, horizontal: All I did to this was to remove the "fabric weave" (to you see a theme, here? ;-)), and using liquid cement only, position the flying surfaces down. Once you add the horizontal tail to the fuselage, there is a stabilizor connecting bar missing. Basically, this just runs between each "half" of the stabilizor, and sits on top of the fuselage. See the Datafile for further details. Tail surface, vertical: This area requires some modification. Not to the shape, as the shape is basically correct, but to a few things Revell left off. First of all, the "fin" part of the tail is supposed to extend down to the fuselage, at the aft end of the horizontal surface (after the stabilzor connecting bar). Also, the fin is supposed to extend down to the horizontal just in front of this point. Basically, Revell's "cut out" in the vertical surface is too much. I just ended up adding sheet styrene to the kit part until it looked correct. I also separated the rudder - not only because I wanted to reposition it, but it also helped with the "fin" reshape. You will also need to add control horns to both side of the "rudder" part. Struts: All struts - except the landing gear (more on this later) are scratched out of Contrail strut stock. I just followed the Datafile for the correct lengths (except the center struts, as I plan to make these after I get the top wing on the interplane struts). Landing struts and surrounding area: I'm using the kit landing struts, as there is nothing wrong with these, especially after you remove the mounting pins from the forward part of the struts. You will need to find replacement wheels, though, since the kit supplied ones are too small. I'm using Atlee replacement wheels. The axel/cross bars will need to be replaced, as Revell provides a snap in affair that is supposed to turn. I ended up making a brass rod axel, and trapped this in two pieces of plastic, to create the airfoil shape of the cover. Other details: The cowl is completely wrong. You could correct the kit part, as there is a lot of plastic on it which allows you to cut and shape at will. Or, you could take the easy way out - which I did - and purchase the Rosemont replacement cowl. I using the kit engine, since there is nothing wrong with it. However, you will need to find another propeller, since it's completely wrong. I'm using one I found in the parts box that's extremely close, and will only need its tips reshaped. I'm using one gun from an extra Airfix SPAD kit, and one Aeroclub I have left over. Finishing: I found the following Polly Scale colors close to the chips I have from Jim Kiger (?) and Replicraft. Underside "yellow": 505312 Ger. RLM 69 Lt. Tan (~33695) Beige: 505320 Ger. RLM 79 Sand Yellow (~30215) Dark Green: 505038 Fr. Fok. Dark Green (34096) Light Green: 505310 Ger. RLM 68 Lt. Olive Green (~34258) Dark Brown: (This is an old Polly S color) 500845 Brown 3B3 FS30051 I plan on finishing this as Zenos Miller's aircraft, as depicted on the cover of the latest OtF (Vol 11 No 3). The 27th Aero's eagle and checkerboard will come from SuperScale, and I haven't figured out yet whose roundels I'm going to use. Can anybody compare SuperScale's, Blue Rider's and Americal's? Matt mbittner@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 11:58:12 -0600 From: "Bill Ciciora" To: Subject: Re: 1/48 Liberty Engine? Message-ID: Riordan wrote: > I've heard that Engines & Things (don't know if they make one either) is best avoided. After checking the Rollmodels page, I found that indeed they can get the Engines & Things Liberty V-12, although it's not one they normally stock. What's the problem with this piece? It has to be better than what's in the Aurora kit. Bill C. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 00:46:26 -0800 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Friday, 16 February 1917, Raoenel near St Just Message-ID: <33081AE2.4E21@host.dmsc.net> 928. Cloudy with a little rain this afternoon. Got up late this morning after a very sound night's sleep. Could not fly all day on account of the bad weather. My leaky gasoline tank was replaced today so I'll be able to fly to-morrow--good news to me. Wrote to Jeanette and my good marraine, Miss Mooney today and received a letter from Major Parker. Wonder when we'll have any mail from the States again? War is not yet declared but it may come any day now. Hoskier, Parsons and I have our names in the official report of the Groupe today for our combats yesterday with those two German machines over Roye. It all helps. from the War Diary of E.C.C. Genet ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 00:40:19 -0800 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Thursday, 15 February 1917, Raoenel near St Just Message-ID: <33081973.63A@host.dmsc.net> 927. Superb day. Out along our lines from 8:30 to 10:30 this morning with Hoskier and Parsons and we all had several hot, close combats with two German biplanes directly over Roye. Had a fight with each of them in turn being attacked by one as I was driving the other down to earth. Had to leave off chasing the first to turn and attack the second which I forced to quit and dive for safety at 400 metres over Roye and several batteries of anti-aircraft guns which quickly opened up a furious fire at me. I think I killed the gunner of the second. Hoskier and Parsons each had similar combats with no better success. The Commandant praised us for our attempts. My gasoline has sprung a leak so I was unable to go out again this afternoon as I wanted to do. Aerial combats certainly are exciting and soon over. They try one's nerves to the limit but there is very little if any time to think of danger to one's self. Wrote to Chaplain Pearce this evening before supper. from the War Diary of E.C.C. Genet *********************************************** Thursday, Feb. 15, 1917 Went out with Hoskier and Parsons at 8:30. Hoskier was delayed in starting but caught up with us about 9 o'clock. At 9:40 we discovered 2 German "Valfiches" flying at low altitude over Roye. We immediately made for position over them. Hoskier attacked one of them and had combat without many material result to either altho he drove the German down. This was at 9:50. I lost sight of Hoskier after he dove on his adversary but kept the second German Avion in sight below me and maneuvered into position and went down after it at full speed. He saw me and at once dove for the ground north of Roye. I got to within 400 meters of him and began to fire without much hope of hitting him at that long range. I knew the other machine was somewhere up behind me. The first machine, the one I was chasing, sent off a rocket just after I opened fire as a signal to the other German. I glanced around and discovered number two well up behind me and getting into position to dive down on me. I decided it was best to leave off chasing the first as I was already down to 600 meters from the ground, which was enemy territory, and look out for the one above me. I turned sharply and headed up towards him not feeling quite sure what would be the best way to get out of range of his machine gun and in a position to make a try at himself. Both machines I knew were biplace and so carried two machine guns. I got up as far as 1200 meters and let him pass just over me. He tried to dive down in back of me but I out maneuvered him, turning about just as he passed over me and so got behind and under him altho sufficiently to his right for his machine gunner to open fire on me. I chased up towards his tail firing rapidly as I do so with as good an aim as I could while twisting from side to side to distract his aim. None of his bullets touched my machine. I caught up to within forty meters of him when he suddenly dived down in front of me for the ground. I dived after him to within 800 meters of the ground directly over Roye and kept on firing. I thought I had hit him and turned off but after I had done so I saw him straighten out and race off into his lines. Immediately the anti-aircraft batteries opened fire on me and I had to climb out and away from them by twists and turns, mounting up all the time in hopes of finding Parsons and Hoskier. Parsons, tho, at about that time was having a fight with one of the German machines but with no more success than either Hoskier or I had had. He was forced to start back to camp as his gasoline was low. After about 10 minutes of maneuvering to a high altitude I found Hoskier and followed him for a short while over Roye but had to fall out and turn toward the camp for lack of gasoline. I reached the camp 3 minutes after Parsons--at 10:30. This afternoon the commandant called Hoskier down to his office and asked him all about our combats and expressed himself as being very well pleased with our work. It will go down as something worth while on our records without a doubt. Time: 2 hours Height 3000 meters from the Flight Log of E.C.C. Genet, N-124 ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 435 *********************