WWI Digest 426 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Mooring an HB-18 by thayer@sirius.com (Thayer Syme) 2) Re: Smer D.III whittling by Sandy Adam 3) Re: Mooring an HB-18 by "Brian Bushe" 4) This List by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 5) Re: Subscription Check by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 6) Re: Sopwith Pup by bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) 7) More about OTF binders by Peter Kilduff 8) Model photos in OTF by Peter Kilduff 9) Re: Sopwith Pup by Pedro Soares 10) Re: Etienne Dormoy-WWI pilot & airplane designer (fwd) by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" 11) Re: Eduard News/Propaganda by DavidL1217@aol.com 12) Re: Home Brewed Etchings by "Eli Geher" 13) Re: Vzfw Anton Banhofer's Jasta 25 Macedonian Alb. D. by Erik Pilawskii 14) Re: Vzfw Anton Banhofer's Jasta 25 Macedonian Alb. D. by Carlos Valdes 15) DML Fokker D.VIII Kit Review by "Bill Ciciora" 16) Re[2]: Smer D.III whittling by "Shelley Goodwin" 17) Re: Subscription Check by john@rollmodels.com (John Roll) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 01:51:23 -0800 From: thayer@sirius.com (Thayer Syme) To: wwi Subject: Re: Mooring an HB-18 Message-ID: My understanding is pretty much as per the rest of the responses, that they would come out of the water pretty soon after returning to port. However... It apparently was not uncommon for the crews to loiter on the open sea to extend the "range" of the mission. Fly out aways, alight on the surface, (seaplanes can't "land" unless they are amphibs) and then wait for some action. It would be pretty cool to do a diorama of a couple of them on the open sea waiting for action. One of the crew might be sitting with a cigarette, another might have passed the time fishing. Perhaps cleaning a gun, or changing a plug.. All sorts of possibilities. Thayer -- Thayer Syme San Francisco ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 09:31:56 +0000 (GMT) From: Sandy Adam To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Smer D.III whittling Message-ID: > Is it feasable to plane off the thick sides and bottom of this kit to > make it more D.III-ish? I know I should just wait for the Eduard kit, > but I'm rather fond of harebrained modifications. > > Riordan I worked on two of these some years back to make Hippels DV and Voss' DII. My solution with the fuselage was to cut it back to a skeleton and skin with plastic card. I built the bottom half first and filled it with formers and cockpit interior before adding upper decking. Lot of work though. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 12:21:32 +0000 From: "Brian Bushe" To: wwi Subject: Re: Mooring an HB-18 Message-ID: <199702071230.MAA16656@itl.net> re: Re: Mooring an HB-18 > > It apparently was not uncommon for the crews to loiter on the open sea to > extend the "range" of the mission. Fly out aways, alight on the surface, > (seaplanes can't "land" unless they are amphibs) and then wait for some > action. It would be pretty cool to do a diorama of a couple of them on the > open sea waiting for action. One of the crew might be sitting with a > cigarette, another might have passed the time fishing. Perhaps cleaning a > gun, or changing a plug.. All sorts of possibilities. > > Thayer For a quite a while there has been a similar diorama of a W-29 circulating british shows. Very nice expecially considering the scale: I can't remember exactly but it has to be at least 1:28. I think the crew was still in the cockpit however: no fishing rods. Brian 'My mind is going. There is no question of it' - Hal 9000 Brian Bushe syclone@itl.net Syclone Systems Fieldhouse Lane (44) 01628 476 500 Marlow Fax 01628 475 522 Buckinghamshire England ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 07:42:00 -0500 From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: This List Message-ID: <199702071242.HAA27238@pease1.sr.unh.edu> My computer and/or provider have been growing crazy lately(No, it is not AOL). The result is that I'm a few days behind on my reading. More importantly, the lack of e-mail has made me realize how muich I miss all of the comments, information and most of all the comaraderie(sp) among the members. I started on this list a year ago and am beginning to wonder how I got along without it! We now return to our regular programming..... Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 07:42:02 -0500 From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Subscription Check Message-ID: <199702071242.HAA27245@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 09:16 AM 2/6/97 -0500, Peter Kilduff wrote: >FYI, a snag at the printer has put the Winter OTF off schedule. Situation >has been resolved (technical problem for them, not us) and production has >resumed. Peter I hope there is some coverage of the Washington meeting. There were some beautiful models there. Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 07:42:04 -0500 From: bucky@mail.prolog.net (Mary-Ann/Michael) To: wwi, Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Sopwith Pup Message-ID: <199702071242.HAA27259@pease1.sr.unh.edu> At 09:57 AM 2/6/97 -0500, Pedro Soares wrote: > >I'll get back in touch soon with an update on the assembly progress. I'm >still afraid of the struts, though, but I guess I'll go for the one at a >time approach suggested by Mike Muth and I'm really considereing using >wood. I found some flat wood matchsticks that look just right for the >job once cut and shaped. Good luck...hope it turns out ok! Mike Muth ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 8:09:46 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Kilduff To: wwi Subject: More about OTF binders Message-ID: <970207080946.20303667@CCSUA.CTSTATEU.EDU> In response to: >heh heh... I saw an opportunity for you to throw in a plug so did a >setup :-) > >What's the pricing and your address? I'll send you a check. >I want to get the complete binder set. > >Don Rinker >OTF since isssue #1 (and if I get bounced off the List for spamming, Don, it's YOUR fault!) Anyhoo . . . typing with one hand (while Don twists the other arm), The League of WW I Av.Hist. is again organizing an order of specially-made binders for back issues of OVER THE FRONT (see p. 248 of the Autumn '96 issue). Buying them this way, we get a group discount so they can be offered at the lowest possible price. Each binder has League emblem and volume number. Available are: binders for Vols. 1 - 10 ($75.00) and Vols. 11 - 15 ($37.50) or both sets for $112.50 (sorry, no single volume orders). Please send checks (payable in U.S. currency) and made out to "Over the Front" to: Peter Kilduff 7 Woodbine Street New Britain, CT 06052 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 9:18:53 -0500 (EST) From: Peter Kilduff To: wwi Subject: Model photos in OTF Message-ID: <970207091853.20300c4c@CCSUA.CTSTATEU.EDU> In response to: >Peter > I hope there is some coverage of the Washington meeting. There were >some beautiful models there. >Mike Muth Only "beautiful"? Mike, were we at the same meeting? The models I saw on display were absolutely GORGEOUS miniature masterpieces! I don't know whether there is coverage, as I am "only" an issue editor these days (having retired as managing editor and been succeeded by Jim Streckfuss). The key to coverage, of course, is for "someone" to provide the photos and write-up. So, if nothing shows (and you can check with Jim), then I'd suggest you do a write-up. As previously noted, The League really WANTS to do more for/with models/modelers, but we need people to "do" some of these articles. In my own case, I'm so bogged down with all those German reports that my old bottle of Solva-Set now serves only as a paperweight. Time for other folks to kick in. How about you, Mike? PK ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 15:04:27 +0000 From: Pedro Soares To: wwi Subject: Re: Sopwith Pup Message-ID: <32FB447B.56B2@anaep.pt> mbittner@juno.com wrote: > > > Super!! I'm glad it arrived. Matt, the material you sent me is just great. Yesterday as promised I got back to the kit and dealt with the exhaust channel for which the picture of the fuselage structure was invaluable. Any idea on what colour to paint the channel insert? While examining the plans I was also sad to learn that when I sanded off the fabric impression on the fuselage I had completely obliterated a very noticeable feature of the starboard half of the Pup: the examination panel with its characteristic seam. I'm thinking of ways to replace it and I'll probably use fine stretched sprue glued on the seam location into which, after completely dried, I'll try to make some sort of evenly spaced marks (probably using a circular saw from a mini motor-tool). This is just a thought though and I guess I'll try it on an old kit first. Any suggestion to this problem too? Since I also sanded off all the top ribs on the fuselage - I might have to take care and don't get so carried away by the sandpaper in the future :-) - I will try scribing them into some very thin plastic sheet, using the fine ball-point method I've read about on the list. Let's hope all this works > Can't wait to hear how it goes. Can you get Contrail strut > there? No Are you interested in some? I still plan on picking up > an I-3 for you, so I could throw some in with that one. I'm > hoping to get to it next month, if you don't mind waiting a bit > longer. Yes Matt that would be nice. Do it if you don't mind (no need to hurry though). > > Good luck, and I'm glad to help. > Thanks again wish you all guys a nice weekend and Happy modeling pedro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 11:27:27 -0800 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Re: Etienne Dormoy-WWI pilot & airplane designer (fwd) Message-ID: <32FB821F.21D6@host.dmsc.net> forwarded from the WWI history list: AJ Plotke wrote: > > Any one to help? > Alternatively, can any of the air history list members re-forward to > their groups? > > Jane > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 08:18:34 -0500 (EST) > From: RLMWRITE@aol.com > To: cd078@xroads.com > Subject: Etienne Dormoy-WWI pilot & airplane designer > > Dear Dr. Jane Plotke > > I'm looking for any information I can find on Etienne Dormoy. He was a WWI > French Army pilot from January 1915 to June 1916. He was assigned to Esc. > V.97. He also designed the WWI Spad, Schmidt, the first Aeroncas, all of the > Buhl planes (Bull Pup, Aister, Air Sedan and the Auto Gyro), the Boeing P-26 > Peashooter, the Consolidated Catilina PBY and the Dormoy Flying Bathtub. He > was born on Feb. 10, 1885. > > If you have any information or know where I can find any information about > Dormoy, will you please let me know? Thank you. > > Richard L. Meister Jr. > P.O. Box 636 > Otis Orchards, WA 99027 > rlmwrite@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 11:56:53 -0500 (EST) From: DavidL1217@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Eduard News/Propaganda Message-ID: <970206203938_-1476248347@emout02.mail.aol.com> Bob, Do you ever wonder if Eduard is out to get the vacuform manufacturers? They seen to take aim at your subjects and those of others.... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 11:38:31 -0600 From: "Eli Geher" To: Subject: Re: Home Brewed Etchings Message-ID: <199702071738.LAA00932@sh1.ro.com> > From: DavidL1217@aol.com > > Has any one on this list made their own etched brass pieces? > The idea from Theodoric of York, Medievil Modeler for the sheet of control > horns was intriguing. May give it a try. > > Are there any etching kits out there or go "how to" articles? I haven't done so myself, except for homebrew circuit cards, but members of my club have successully done their own 1/24 automotive photoetch. The materials are available from Radio Shack or your friendly local electronics supplier. Sheet brass is probably available at better auto parts stores as various thicknesses of shim stock. The biggest problem is probably getting art work of sufficient detail for the scale required. This could require the help of a photo reduction shop. One thing to remember is that the artwork should be larger then the final outline by the thickness of the metal in order to allow for etching undercut. The masking is done either by exposing a spray-on coating to ultraviolet light through a negative or by rub-on transfers that are available for circuit card layout. The latter involves building up a complex mask from simple shapes or cutting out the shape you want from larger pieces. The actual etching process is straightforward and covered by the instructions that come with the chemicals. I vaguely recall that Finescale Modeler plans an article on this subject. I hope this helps. Eli Geher ********************************************************** The remainder of this document is intentionally left blank. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 11:19:19 -0800 (PST) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Vzfw Anton Banhofer's Jasta 25 Macedonian Alb. D. Message-ID: On Thu, 6 Feb 1997, Carlos Valdes wrote: > Albatros colors is one of those topics that greatly interest me but > which I've yet had a chance to really get to work on. Could I ask what > sources you've been using in your research? Also, have you seen the 1995 > WWI Aero article by Dan Abbot on D.II colors? In it he includes some > profiles/plates with a couple of 3-color schemes. > Carlos, I'll try to draw up some examples for you and describe what I'm seeing. Matt is going to be a superb chap and send me a copy of the DS Abbot D.II article, so I'll comment on that after I see it. Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "If you're not living Life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!" .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 17:03:15 -0500 From: Carlos Valdes To: wwi Subject: Re: Vzfw Anton Banhofer's Jasta 25 Macedonian Alb. D. Message-ID: <32FBA6A3.2E69@conted.gatech.edu> Erik, I look forward to your descriptions and reaction Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 22:19:21 -0600 From: "Bill Ciciora" To: "WWI Model List" Subject: DML Fokker D.VIII Kit Review Message-ID: I just completed this kit yesterday, The kit consists of four injected sprues of light grey plastic, a clear windshield, two frets of steel photoetch, decal sheet, and 300 mm of steel wire. The attachment points for the pieces to the sprues are fairly thick, and generally require some cleanup even when cut close to the piece. Wing panel lines are nicely recessed. As this was my first kit with both PE and lozenge camo decals, I built it pretty much straight out of the box. My purpose in building was more for learning of techniques rather than a high accuracy contest piece. My only reference was the kit instructions. Superdetailers will probably want to sand off the moulded-on stringers and apply reverse lozenge decals to the fuselage interior. I simply painted reverse camo with the decals as a reference, and painted the stringers steel. The kit does not contain a pilot figure, so I purchased an Atlee seated figure and cast a copy in resin. The Atlee figure includes the seat and harness, so those kit parts became spares. Interior detail included with the kit consists of seat, seat mounting frame, four harness belts, control column, rudder bar, compass, throttle, ammo box, and machine gun mounts with altimeter(?). With a pilot figure in the cockpit, only the control column and altimeter are visible (though I did include all the other detail for practice, except the rudder bar, which will not fit properly with the Atlee figure). I added a bulkhead behind the cockpit. The kit instructions include some questionable assembly sequences, some of which I unfortunately followed. Do not attach part MA11, the part of the control column that extends out the bottom of the fuselage, until final assembly. The instructions have it attached to the cockpit floor in step 1. The fuselage gets handled too much during the rest of assembly, and I ended up having to scratch the lost piece in plastic. In a curious choice of materials, the struts are all provided in PE. However, the main V-cabane attaches so nicely that I hated to give it up and scratch struts. I applied a bead of CA glue down each side of the struts, and sanded to size. I'm happy with the results; the struts have acceptable scale thickness. My initial dry fit of the decking showed no problems. However, with the ammo box and gun mounts assembled, the decking would not fit snugly despite repeated attempts at sanding it. In frustration I pressed it down with considerable force, and it snapped into place. But the starbord side has about a .2 mm gap with a snug port side. Getting this fit right may involve a lot of testing and sanding. The kit instructions show a hole in the bottom of the horizontal stab for control cable "through" the stab (kit instructions actually show this done with two sections of wire. The hole is not actually molded into the stab, and I missed this during assembly. With the stab securely glued to a nearly finished machine, I had to try to drill a hole. The results were less than satisfactory. I did like the fact that kit instructions show the length of each wire in mm, and the accuracy is very good. I had only two wires come up short; there is plenty of spare included in the kit. If you want a prop and engine that spin, you may have to (a) sand the interior of the cowl, (b) sand the tops of a few cylinder heads a bit, (c) replace the engine with an aftermarket part. The decals for the black stripes on the horizontal stab are sized wrong and almost useless. I simply airbrushed the whole piece white, masked the white stripes, and airbrushed the exposed areas black. I used the Eduard decals as a reference. I cut the decal for the cowl into individual triangles and achieved good results. Color police will probably want to use the aftermarket lozenge of their choice; I've heard the kit lozenge bashed more than once. (Editorial comment: it would be nice if the holder(s) of the hermetically-sealed, sunlight-protected original lozenge fabric samples would invite decal manufacturers in for a brief showing.) I used the kit lozenge, and achieved good results with regard to fit and finish. I brush painted the bare fuselage plastic with Future for a very smooth finish. Only the bottom near the tail had minor wrinkles. I hope some list members find this information useful. Bill C. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Feb 97 20:51:14 PST From: "Shelley Goodwin" To: wwi Subject: Re[2]: Smer D.III whittling Message-ID: <9701078553.AA855377543@mx.Ricochet.net> Sandy, You are obviously more skilled and ambitious than I, who was seeking an 'easy' sanding solution, so I humbly retract my harebrained comment. Riordan ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Smer D.III whittling Author: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu at Internet Date: 2/7/97 3:14 AM > Is it feasable to plane off the thick sides and bottom of this kit to > make it more D.III-ish? I know I should just wait for the Eduard kit, > but I'm rather fond of harebrained modifications. > > Riordan I worked on two of these some years back to make Hippels DV and Voss' DII. My solution with the fuselage was to cut it back to a skeleton and skin with plastic card. I built the bottom half first and filled it with formers and cockpit interior before adding upper decking. Lot of work though. Sandy ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 23:45:33 -0500 From: john@rollmodels.com (John Roll) To: wwi Subject: Re: Subscription Check Message-ID: >A few of my subscriptions may be running a bit late. Has anyone yet >received any of the following: > >Windsock - Jan/Feb 1997 > >Datafile - HB W12 Yup! I got the Roll Models shipment (via air-mail) on Thursday afternoon. John Roll john@rollmodels.com http://www.rollmodels.com The Internet Model Shop ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 426 *********************