WWI Digest 397 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Technical problems by aew (Allan Wright) 2) Saturday, 13 January 1917, Plessis, Paris by "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" 3) Re: Biggles by "Brian Bushe" 4) Re: Eric Pilawski's Models on-line by Erik Pilawskii 5) Attention: Eduard SSW Constructors by "Valenciano . Jose" 6) ATTN: SSW Construtctors final chapter by "Valenciano . Jose" 7) Re: 12 January 1917 - MvR awarded the PlM by Mick Fauchon 8) Insignia Magazine by "Shelley Goodwin" 9) RE: Insignia Magazine by Shane Weier 10) Fokker D.III by "Valenciano . Jose" 11) Eric's Model Pictures by Mark Shannon 12) Re: Embarassing Top Aces question. by bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) 13) Martin Handyside Monoplane Questions by "S.M. Head" 14) A painting question by lothar@ncw.net (mark) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:20:46 -0500 (EST) From: aew (Allan Wright) To: wwi Subject: Re: Technical problems Message-ID: <199701131320.IAA21380@pease1.sr.unh.edu> > I seem to be having trouble getting through. I'm still on the digest and I > sent in a post, but it never appeared in the digest. I'm wondering if a > persons own messages are left off the digest list as the are left off the > list unless requested otherwise. If so with the list too, how do you get > your postings on the digest? "set WWI ack" as on the list? This is a > sneaky way to check the list again without using the despised "test" word. There is no digest equivelent of "set WWI ack". You SHOULD see your own posts (including the one you just posted). If you don't see your message in the digest then the internet or your mailer ate it. -Al =============================================================================== Allan Wright Jr. | You fell victim to one of the 'classic' blunders! University of New Hampshire+--------------------------------------------------- Research Computing Center | WWI Modeling mailing list: wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu Internet: aew@unh.edu | WWI Modeling WWW Page: http://pease1.sr.unh.edu =============================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 10:58:50 -0800 From: "Marian Hollinger, Bradley Omanson" To: wwi Subject: Saturday, 13 January 1917, Plessis, Paris Message-ID: <32DA85EA.28B6@host.dmsc.net> Fair with a little rain in the afternoon but managed to get in two short flights after lunch with 110 hp "Baby." Wrote to Charlie and Susie Gumbs. Came into Paris in early evening for a change. Stopped down town to see some motion pictures and then came up to the Hotel Roosevelt for the night. It looks as tho tomorrow morning will turn out to be clear and I wish I had remained at Plessis now to fly the Spad then. Am feeling altogether miserable and disgusted. Do wish I could get out to the front mighty soon. I'm jolly well tired of being held in reserve. Feel fatigued to-night. ******************************** from the War Diary of E.C.C. Genet ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 15:54:42 +0000 From: "Brian Bushe" To: wwi Subject: Re: Biggles Message-ID: <199701131604.QAA15233@itl.net> re: Biggles > Thanks to everyone about the Biggles information. I didn't realize the books > were so controversial...then again we still ban "Huckelberry Finn" and "Tom > Sawyer" here in the States at many high schools due to PC violations. > Mike Muth > Unfortunately they haven't banned war, disease and crime yet. Too busy chasing harmless bits of literature. Brian Brian Bushe syclone@itl.net Syclone Systems Denmark Street (44) 1628 789 470 Maidenhead Fax 789 513 Berkshire England ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 09:25:14 -0800 (PST) From: Erik Pilawskii To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Eric Pilawski's Models on-line Message-ID: On Sun, 12 Jan 1997, Valenciano . Jose wrote: > > More power to Eric! Beautifully finished fuselage. > Why, thank you! Thanks a lot! Cheers, Erik :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: "If you're not living Life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!" .............................................................................. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 07:07:14 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: wwi Subject: Attention: Eduard SSW Constructors Message-ID: Attention all Eduard SSW D.III constructors. Hi all, almost finished. Those who have been following this saga know that I was ready to apply the lozenges (painted on) and that I wasn't going to include it in my tale. So the story below starts off as me finishing adding the lozenge camouflage and rib tapes. PREPARING THE FUSELAGE FOR PAINTING: Make sure that there are no blemishes on the fuselage surface, especially if your painting the panels a metal colour. I was making Udet's plane which had a bare ventral metal panel. The bottom panel of the kit doesn't follow the shape of the panel on the actual plane (it's narrower than it should be) so I had to make sure that the join was well hidden. Along the areas of the join that seemed to have a small crack in it, I went over the area with a tiny ball burr in my moto tool and fill up the resultant groove with super glue, sanded it smooth and finished up with metal polish. On the rear fuselage, I cleaned up the depressions where the hand holds go. I used the moto tool again, with the smallest ball burr I had, running at the slowest speed. With the little burr, I underct the edges of the depressions. This really helped to define their shape. I then got some music wire of the appropriate thickness, cut it to the right length and glue. PAINTING THE FUSELAGE: I masked off al lozenged areas and put some tissue into the cockpit. I masked around the ventral cowl panel and painted it aluminum. When dry, I masked this area over and prepared to paint the fuselage. I was to paint the fuselage red, which is a colour that doesn't cover so well. So, what I did was I painted the fuselage with a base colour of light grey. This gave all the different construction materials (plastic, photo etch, epoxy, etc.) a uniform tone. After this, the red covered very well. I removed all of the masking tape and did some paintbrush work, specifically in the intakes. I painted all the intake interiors dark grey. The aluminum panel intakes, I painted the "solid" openings grey too. I needed a steady hand for this. What helped me a lot was positioning the plane so that the area of the intake openings reflected the light of my lamp. All that needed to be done then was to paint out all the areas that reflected light. DECALS: The decals were no problem at all although I used only the white "LO" for on my model. It was thin and went on easily. Of course I prepped the surface with gloss and sprayed with flat when the decals were dry. STRUTS AND TOP WING: The interplane V-struts came with a lot of flash. Treat them as vac material and think like Michaelangelo, "inside this blob of plastic is a v-strut waiting to be freed. It really isn't that bad. But it did require more clean up work than usual. Don't forget to define the shape of the locating pins. Hold the pair of v-struts against each other to see if dimensions match. Turn to both wings and the fuselage and look for where the locating holes should go and drill. Do not trust the hole positions, double check and make sure the positions match, port and starboard. There have been a few horror stories of Eduard kits having misaligned strut positions. We're too late into the kit to risk aborting the project. Now to glue the v-struts on. Put a v-strut into position on the lower wing and mark around it's base with a pin, both sides. Scratch away the lozenge finish in this area marked for a better glue bond. Return the strut and bleed some liquid cement into the join and allow to dry. Lay the top wing onto the struts and check any fitting problems. At this stage, I discovered that my top and bottom wings had slight twist warps in them. Check bottom wing warp first. Look at the struts from the side. See if the near struts angles align with the struts on the other side. If not, you'll have to do some heating and twisting. With a hair dryer, I heated the wing area to be twisted. Apply the hot air on the underside of the wing, keep away from that thin trailing edge. After a few seconds of this, shut the dryer off and twist. Do this in moderation! Once the wing is more or less ok, lay the top wing on again. If the v-strut locating pins don't fit well into the upper wing holes, if the top wing sort of "rocks" on the struts, it will have to be given the heat-twist treatment as well. When you get the fit right, position the top wing and apply liquid cement. CABANE STRUTS: The cabane struts are about as flashed up (maybe even worse than) as the v-struts. The locating pins on the struts are very vaguely defined. I find out later that this didn't matter. Why? I dry fitted the strut and find out that it's too short. Wing too high? No, the top wing height checks out correctly with drawings, caban struts are too short. I extended the single (not the vee) strut ends by first cutting off the locating pin and drilling about 2mm into the strut center. I got some .5mm card strip, glued a double thickness with super glue and drilled between the two layers. Cut off a 3mm length of this "double strip" and super glue a syringe needle through that. Insert one end of the needle/card strip into the hole in the strut adding superglue in the process. When dry, file the card strip extension to conform to the shape of the strut cross section. Now, cut down the strut to its proper length by trial and error dry fitting. This work on the cabane struts put a lot of stress on them. Handle with care. They might snap. Final dry fitting of the cabanes will show that due to the added length, the angles of the vee portions of the struts will have to opened up. Position the hair dryer so that it points straight up. Expose only the angled end of the strut to the hot air and slowly open up the angle when you feel the plastic give. All this strut extending work would seem to require the lengthening of diagonal portion of the cabane strut as well. I didn't bother I just moved the rear fuselage strut position a bit forward. Glue the cabane struts on, first to the fuselage, both sides, then to the wing. Fill the lengthened rear fuselage holes with white glue. Whew! The next chapter of this saga will be the last. Watch out for it. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 07:09:49 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: wwi Subject: ATTN: SSW Construtctors final chapter Message-ID: Attention all Eduard SSW D.III constructors. Hi all, finally, it is finished. DETAIL ON THE FUSELAGE TOP DECKING: It might seem strange that I left out the guns, winshield, etc, until after the top wing was on. But I didn't want all these fine parts on as I struggled with the struts and the top wing. So they (guns, windshield, aileron actuating rod/crank) had to go on between the top wing and fuselage, through the cabane struts. Think like a ship-in-a- bottle guy. GUNS: First to go on were the guns. I used DML spandaus instead of the Eduard guns. I like the look of the Eduard photoetch gun jackets and I want to use them on a plane with a more exposed gun position. Many people ask how to get those etched jackets (especially those stiff DML parts) into a neat cylindrical shape. Here's how I do it. I DON'T use the DML plastic tool to roll the jacket on. I just keep this tool to guide me as to the final diameter of the jacket. What I do is I get a drill bit about half the diameter of the metal tool. I lay the flat jacket on my finger tip and make like a rolling pin with the smooth end of the drill bit. The jacket will start to curve against your soft fingertip and the drill bit. Slowly start to curve the jacket more so that it wraps itself completely onto the drill bit. Roll the jacket (still wrapped on the bit) tightly between your thumb and forefinger so that it really conforms to the diameter of the bit. Slip the jacket off this drill bit and gently slip it onto a bit of slightly larger diameter do this until you get the jacket up to its proper diameter. It will have a perfect cylindrical shape. The DML gun barrels will break as your remove them from the sprue unless you're real careful. I use a separating disk in the mototool to do this. Very little stress is applied to the part in this way. When the plastic part is cleaned up, offer up the jacket. DML jackets are too long for the barrel so what I do is I remove the gun's ventral support post and trim just a bit of the gun's body in front so the jacket goes in more, leaving enough space for the front piece of the jacket to slip onto. Don't forget to drill out the gun barrel. Prick its center and drill out with a #80 drill bit. I did some work on the little jacket front piece too. The thing I don't like about this part is that the cross hairs are too thick, virtually covering the entire ring sight. I put the smallest grinding burr I had into my Dremel. I don't know what the burr is called, it has the texture of sandpaper but it has the same colour as the burr's shaft. Without removing the crosshair form the photoetch fret, I lay it on a piece of glass and start grinding away at the center, frequently turning it over to work on the opposite side. Once a hole developed, I cut the crosshair away from the fret and grasped it in a pair of smooth jawed pliers. I continued making the hole larger with my mototool. For finer more delicate grinding, I attached a similar burr to my pinvise and used it as a miniature file. I worked like this until I had a nice, large round hole. I got some hair from a hair brush, lay it on the glass and applied 2 pieces of tape on it 1cm apart from each other. I slipped the photoetch sight under the hair and pulled the hair straight. I adjusted the position of the sight so that it was exactly vertically aligned with the hair. On a separate piece of tape that I had applied to the glass, I put a drop of super glue. With the finest copper wire I had, I collected a droplet of glue and applied it where the hair intersected the righ sight. When dry, I cut the excess hair away and repeated the process for the horizontal line of the ring sight. BTW, a magnifying glass on a stand will help immensely!! The resultant sight looks very good, even better than Eduard's sights but I wouldn't try this operation on Eduard's softer copper photoetch. Now my SSW gun sights are really, literally "CROSS HAIRS". The notch for the barrel on this part is usually too narrow for the kit's plastic barrel. I folded some 400 grit paper and ran this along the notch to widen it. When the fit improved, I slipped the part onto the barrel, lined it up and added superglue droplets. Paint the guns, highlight as desired. The new crosshairs look real cool! Dry fit the guns into their slots on the top decking. Scratch some paint where the guns and the decking meet. When aligned, bleed some liquid cement between the guns and the top decking. Strangely, Eduard did not provide any belt feed parts. I made these up from lead sheet. Lead sheet I get from the local hardware is just the right thickness for this. Lead's very easy to shape too, and takes super glue surprisingly well. WINDSHIELD: I cut the windshield mount from its fret and cut away its lower half (the half that folds into the cockpit) and discarded it. I'm practicing some artistic licensce here, since it will interfere with a nice view of the cockpit detail. I grinded out a bit of the center of the rear edge of this part to make way for rigging from the upper fuselage decking to the cabane struts. I carefully folded up and curved the windshield frame and applied some super glue on the inside join. I got the clear part, cut away the bottom and sides (leaving the black frame intact) and cut the upper portion with some allowance. The upper portion of the windshield I sanded to give it a nice round shape. I rolled the windshield on a paintbrush shaft to get it to conform to the curve in the etched frame and finally glued it in place. I wasn't sure if this windshield mount would fit between the guns so I test fitted it. It was a tight squeeze but it fit. I roughened up it's base and scratched some paint on the upper decking where it would fit. I removed the part and put on the very, very small "peep frame", first putting a little puddle of super glue in the slot where it's supposed to fit. Epoxy was used to glue the whole thing on to the top decking allow time for adjusting alignment. AILERON CRANKS: The SSW pic in the Flying Circus Special show the crank's shaft to be a telescoping tube with a rod connecting to the actual aileron crank. I used a syringe needle of appropriate diameter for this, with some music wire to simulate the upper portion of the shaft. I cut away the aileron cranks from the fret, leaving those ugly flat crank shafts. Since I repositioned my ailerons, I had to change the angle at which each crank attaches to the upper wing, easily done with fine sandpaper as the crank is gripped in a pair of smooth jawed pliers. I put a droplet of super glue onto the "shaft" end of the crank and lay the music wire end of the shaft on that. When dry, I inserted the shaft into the holes in the upper decking and added a little super glue from inside the cockpit. I secured the cranks to the top wing with a little white glue, which conveniently disappeared when it dried. That's that for the top decking detail! PREPARING TO RIG: Hiro Ozaki posted a great idea that eases a lot of rigging hassle. It's about making little eyelets to glue at the rigging attachment points. (I glued these eyelets on before attaching the top wing to the plane) I got some sheilded wire audio cable (the wires that attach to the back of your stereo system) and got some of the copper wire in it. Very thin diameter wire! I got the smallest music wire I had (for you musicians out there, the gauge of music wire I used was 00) and bent the copper wire around that. I grasped the two ends of the copper wire between by thumb and forefinger and twirled the music wire around, thus twisting the two copper wire ends together. Voila! Instant eyelets. Mark where all the rigging points go with a pin prick and drill with your tiniest bit (#80). Don't drill all the way through the wing! Also, remember that the rigging attached to the wing spars, so all rigging points should be in the same position along the chord on of each respective wing. When I was ready to glue an eyelet on, I'd dip thin copper wire in a puddle of super glue, apply that into the drilled hole, with tweezers grasp the eyelet by its loop, dip the twisted ends in the glue puddle and insert into the hole, the opening facing fore and aft. If you accidentally glue the eyelet closed, you can usually push it out with a needle and twirling the thin music wire into it like a drill. ADDING THE COWL: I glued the cowl on just before adding all the rigging thread. I roughened up the aluminum bulkhead within the fuselage as well as the firewall on the cowl. I mixed up some epoxy, applied it on the bulkhead and cowl and positioned the cowl on. This way, I had plenty of time to center the cowl with no glue marks on the fuselage/cowl join. RIGGING: I stood the plane on a piece of glass and made a simple jig (pencil on cassette cases) to mark out the position of the drag wire anchors on the cowl. Pin prick and drill this position through. While the etched drag wire anchors are still on the fret, locate the rear "rivet" depression and drill through that as well. Separate the parts from the fret and fold them up. Pick up the part by inserting a needle through the drill hole and insert the pin on the hole in the cowl. Take a note of the anchor's position and scratch away paint on the cowl in that position. Add a little super glue to the anchor and put it back onto the cowl using the needle as before. When the glue sets, you can pull the needle away leaving the anchor properly positioned. I use black nylon monofilament sewing thread for the rigging. I run it through some fine sandpaper to take away the sheen. This material is great! It takes super glue very well. Insert some thread into the hole in the anchor and apply glue. Swing the thread back, inserting it between the two anchor arms and apply glue there too. Insert the other end into the rear strut position in the lower wing. Cut the thread about 2cm longer than needed and tape the end with masking tape to prevent the thread from slipping out of the eyelet. For all the wing rigging, I double looped thread in the upper wing eyelets and applied glue, then threading them through their respective eyelets on the lower wing, wing roots and center upper decking (no eyelets here) positions and taping their ends. When all that was done, I added weighted clips onto each thread end and applied glue to the bottom eyelets. Snip all the excess thread and the rigging is nice and taut. No eyelets for the landing gear rigging. I just drilled into the fuselage and through the axle. FINAL WORK: Well, touch up paint where it's needed, give the prop blades a nice wood grain paint job, and add the rudder control horns (haven't done this yet but I don't think there will be a problem, plan to use white glue to stick the control horns on). It's done, it's finished! And I don't think I'll ever subject myself to another one. I hope this Eduard SSW D.III Constructor's Saga will help all who decide to take the same journey through the kit. After this kit the Aeroclub Fe2b looks like a piece of cake, I think... ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 12:32:04 +1100 (EST) From: Mick Fauchon To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: 12 January 1917 - MvR awarded the PlM Message-ID: On Sun, 12 Jan 1997 DavidL1217@aol.com wrote: > Hoch dem Kaiser! Hoch! Hoch! Hoch! Mick. > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 19:08:08 PST From: "Shelley Goodwin" To: wwi Subject: Insignia Magazine Message-ID: <9700138532.AA853211570@mx.Ricochet.net> Anybody received the latest Insignia (#4)? I'm interested in the Russian article... TIA, Riordan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 13:26:31 +1100 From: Shane Weier To: "'wwi@pease1.sr.unh.edu'" Subject: RE: Insignia Magazine Message-ID: <01BC021E.8F100F00@pc087b.mim.com.au> Riordan, I have Insignia #4, but don't remember enough of the article to tell you what's in it. If you like I'll bring it in and post tomorrow. Shane ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 12:08:42 +0800 (GMT+0800) From: "Valenciano . Jose" To: wwi Subject: Fokker D.III Message-ID: Hi all, I'm looking for drawings and info on the Fokker D.III Could someone give a brief service history on this one? Udet flew one of these. Dan San Abbott called it the "Tin Observer". Why? To all who reply, many thanks. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 22:37:55 -0600 From: Mark Shannon To: wwi Subject: Eric's Model Pictures Message-ID: <32DB0DA3.5DE2@ix.netcom.com> Eric: Xopowo yourself. The pictures look great. -- This has been Mark and/or Mary Shannon at Shingend@ix.netcom.com Remember that every cliche started out as a stroke of genius. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 21:08:59 -0800 From: bshatzer@orednet.org (Bill Shatzer) To: wwi Subject: Re: Embarassing Top Aces question. Message-ID: <199701140508.AA05085@ednet1.orednet.org> In our last episode, Sandy was saying: >Bill (and Carlos) -much thoughtful comment snipped- >On the other hand how many accounts have we all read of a german target >which has received several drums and belts of ammunition and continued >westwards with dead or dying crew but which could and would not be >claimed as a kill. I suggest the german aviator should have expected >credit for more kills than his allied counterpart if all else was equal. >Of course I am stating an opinion of a trend or slight weighting of odds >here rather than a hard and fast general rule. Not to beat a dead horse, but....... I, too, have read such accounts yet I wonder at their accuracy, particularly the claims of the "dead or dying crew". Quite frankly, with a couple exceptions such as the BE-2, (of which the Germans flew none) WW1 aircraft were not generally over-endowed with stability - certainly not such that an air craft sedately escaping to the east with a "dead or dying crew" would have been an at all common event. Basically, WW1 aircraft had to be _flown_ and if the pilot were dead or unconscious or too badly injured to control the aircraft, the aircraft tended to cease flying rather rapidly, rotary engines especially. I would think that in almost all cases, an aircraft "escaping eastward" (which I assume you meant rather than "westwards") did not have a dead or dying crew (or at least pilot) on board. > * What is a 'kill'? Is an RE8 or a BE2 for MvR equivalent to Lanoe >Hawker? Is a novice in a superior Camel equivalent to Hawker in an >obsolete DH2? Well according to the 'scores' - yes, but according to any >sort of common sense - no. Werner Voss counts as the same one kill as the >boy on his first flight over the lines who never even knew what hit him. Interesting point but I'd opine that a "rating system" for kills would be a formidable, if not impossible, undertaking. I think we use the current system of simply using the 'total' official victories on the theory that, on average, it provides a reasonable basis for comparsion - at least among the top "aces" - that over a reasonable period, the "value" of the various official victories will "average out". Still, MvR did claim at least 3 British "aces" among his victories including, in addition to Hawker in an "obsolete DH 4". Sydney Smith, (10 victories) and Raymond-Barker (7 victories), both in Camels - hardly obsolete aircraft. >Dear me I seem to be going on at some length here. Dear me, I seem to be doing so, as well. :-) > In conclusion my >personal feelings are that the Top Aces Scores is a meaningless list and >thats not even starting to take luck into account. There were too many >variables and interested parties to make comparisons viable. All I believe >is that there were a group of experienced pilots who because of >marksmanship, pilot ability, hunting technique, luck or whatever achieved >higher results and sometimes lived a little longer than others. >Who was the 'top ace' would be impossible to ascertain but as far as I am >concerned it aint Manfred Freiherr von Richthofen just because the figure >80 appears in all the books beside his name. >Sandy I'll say amen to that - the difference between MvR's 80 and Mannock's 72 (? -from memory) or even McCudden's 57 (? ditto) may be indicative of something but it is not determinative of their skills as flyers or as leaders - by all I've read, they were all superb airmen and excellent leaders. Now Bishop - Bishop remains a different story! :-) Cheers, -- - Bill Shatzer bshatzer@orednet.org - ............................................................................. - This space for rent - ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 03:50:04 -0500 From: "S.M. Head" To: wwi Subject: Martin Handyside Monoplane Questions Message-ID: <9701140338.aa04459@mail.iapc.net> Hi all! I'm attempting to make a decent model out of the old Pyro Martin Handyside 1911 Monoplane. The instructions in the kit are minimal, and the details are quite absent (as would be expected by its age). My questions are: What kind of seat was used? Id it a woodedn low-back seat or wicker. The one photo I can find of the aircraft does not show clearly because there's someone sitting on it! What kind of control horns were common for the day? It appears they were no more than a flat tapered metal piece with a hole in each end. I assume (possibly wrongly) 1911 to be a bit early for mass production of standard control horns, so a simple, shop-made design would be appropriate. Am I far off? Was the undercarriage all tubing or was a large part of it wood (especially the "No-FlipSki") Looks like the fuselage is fabric, kit says red. Was it so, or does my one poor photo show a dark wood? I'm at a loss, but having fun anyway! Thanks all! Scott Head Scott ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Scott M. Head (smh@iapc.net) | IPMS/USA #32841 | "I love cats... IPMS Houston Scale Model Forum | they taste just like chicken!" http://web-hou.iapc.net/~smh | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 00:51:38 -0800 (PST) From: lothar@ncw.net (mark) To: wwi Subject: A painting question Message-ID: <199701140851.AAA11632@concord.televar.com> Gentlemen - I am at the point of painting the interior of my Eduard Fokker EIII, and find it necessary to pick y'alls brains.... Unlike most normal people- i.e., those who would paint their EIII in clear dope, inside and out, then stick some black crosses on it - I'm doing mine with a clear doped interior and red-brown exterior, as per the color plate of a Turkish EIII on the back cover of the Datafile. Obviously, the darker exterior would, to some extent, show thru to the interior, but to what extent? Anybody have any good ideas on how to best re-create this effect? Obviously, painting the insides clear dope and the outside red-brown won't cut it, due to the thickness of styrene, but painting the interior a blend of clear dope and red-brown doesn't sound quite right either...Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. TIA, Mark ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 397 *********************