WWI Digest 72 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re[2]: The end of an era.... by stonto@seaccc.sccd.ctc.edu 2) Re: Barnes & Noble - Canvas Falcons by cv3@conted.swann.gatech.edu (Carlos Valdes) 3) Rigging secrets of the stars by cv3@conted.swann.gatech.edu (Carlos Valdes) 4) Re: Re[2]: The end of an era.... by robj@speechsys.com 5) Re: Re[2]: The end of an era.... by Brian Nicklas 6) a wheel... a wheel.... by Brian Nicklas 7) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by robj@speechsys.com 8) Re: new sierra by gspring@ix.netcom.com (Greg Springer ) 9) Re: new sierra by Jose Valenciano 10) Re: new sierra by Jose Valenciano 11) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by Jose Valenciano 12) Books in print by hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) 13) Re: new sierra by DavidL1217@aol.com 14) Re: Books in print by Jose Valenciano 15) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by Kevin Witte 16) Re: Favorite 72nd injection kit (that is currently avialable) by vprice@Sydney2.world.net (Vincent Price) 17) Re: Re[2]: The end of an era.... by "S.M. Head" 18) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by The Flying Wrench 19) hello again! by syclone@itl.net (Brian Bushe) 20) Re: hello again! by Richard Humberstone 21) Replicating silver dope by MCCLURE@skynet.litc.lockheed.com 22) Taube - Plastic 1/72 by Brian Nicklas 23) Re: new sierra by robj@speechsys.com 24) Re: Books in print by robj@speechsys.com 25) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by robj@speechsys.com 26) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by robj@speechsys.com 27) Re: Rigging secrets of the stars by Jesse Thorn ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 13:26:36 PST From: stonto@seaccc.sccd.ctc.edu To: wwi Subject: Re[2]: The end of an era.... Message-ID: <9602218274.AA827443683@SCCCGATE.seaccc.sccd.ctc.edu> I'm unsure the status of such Italian firms as Macchi, and may well be unaware of some of the Central Powers survivors. Sikorski goes on in the US, but lacks corporate continuity with the original Russian operation. I don't think any of the current US firms have roots any earlier than the '20s. First thing, Boeing started in 1916 right here in Seattle. It still produces a few aircraft; you guys ever hear of the oh lessee.... 707, 727, 737, 747, 757, 767, 777 ? Yeah, okay, they aren't producing some of those any more. There are still a LOT of them around. Not to mention other stuff that Boeing still has a hand in. One question.. when did Fiat or FIAT come on the scene? The first a/c that I think of with them has to be the CR32, but I'm sure that wasn't their first effort. Were they around for the Greatwar? ---Stephen Tontoni (ps: P-12, P-26, 247, B-17, B-29, B-50, B-47, B-52....... I could keep naming them if you want.) Does anyone have any light to shed on this subject? Eli Geher ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 16:32:42 EST From: cv3@conted.swann.gatech.edu (Carlos Valdes) To: wwi Subject: Re: Barnes & Noble - Canvas Falcons Message-ID: <199603212132.RAA18451@conted.swann.gatech.edu> Book recommendations: 1. Germany's First Air Force, 1914-118 by Peter Kilduff 2. Rise of the Fighter Aircraft, 1914-1919 by Richard P. Hallion 3. von Richtofen and the Flying Circus by Nowarra and Brown The first two should still be in print. And then there are the more specialized volumes, such as Imrie's The Fokker Triplane and Who killed the Red Baron? by Carisella and Ryan. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 16:49:20 EST From: cv3@conted.swann.gatech.edu (Carlos Valdes) To: wwi Subject: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: <199603212149.RAA18521@conted.swann.gatech.edu> Greetings all, As very much a beginning modeler, I would be very interested to hear from you old pros as to any aircraft rigging tips, tecniques, and/or materials that are dear to your hearts and hands. Any suggestions will be much appreciated. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:55:32 +0000 From: robj@speechsys.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Re[2]: The end of an era.... Message-ID: <9603211446.aa27132@scosysv.speechsys.com> FIAT built big 6-cylinder aeroengines during WW1 and probably did license-construction. I seem to remember that the BR 1 of the early 1920s was their first, in-house airplane. Macchi now builds the AMX as part of one of those ever-changing amalgamations that seem so popular in Europe these days. They were Aermacchi last time I checked. SIAI was around fairly recently too. Martin Marietta, ex-Glenn Martin, is still doing business right here in Colorado. Among engine builders, Rolls-Royce is, of course, still a going concern. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 17:11:31 EST From: Brian Nicklas To: Subject: Re: Re[2]: The end of an era.... Message-ID: <199603212210.RAA03274@pease1.sr.unh.edu> General Dynamics used to pass out a poster with their family tree. It all went down to the Wright 1903 Flyer. But then Lockheed grabbed General Dynamics, and now its Lockheed Martin (Lock-Mart :-) so can they track back that far? Not with the originally statement, as I read it. By the way, the book "Martin Aircraft 1909-1960" by Breihan, Piet and Mason is very nice - good history, good drawings and good photos. Narkiewicz//Thompson, Santa Ana, Calif ISBN 0-913322-03-2 208 pages, around 30.00 I'd leave Short Brothers on the long-life list as they seem to be independently operate from any Bombardier conglomeration. Brian ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 17:19:45 EST From: Brian Nicklas To: Subject: a wheel... a wheel.... Message-ID: <199603212218.RAA03397@pease1.sr.unh.edu> The Fokker D.VII (OAW) at the National Air and Space Museum has hand holds the same color as the wing struts - green. The wooden wheels on the airplane have a dark metal band around the outer edge, held to the wooden wheel but metal screws. I would imagine the metal would be shiny if it were used for rolling the around the factory/airfield as per real life rather than on static display. Brian ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 16:32:04 +0000 From: robj@speechsys.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: <9603211623.aa27874@scosysv.speechsys.com> For all 1/72 models and for round-section cable on 1/48-scale models, I use "black" or "smoke" "invisible" thread, a steel-grey monofilament available at sewing stores. For airfoil-section 1/48-scale and larger RAF wires, I use piano wire ground to shape with a sanding drum and a motor tool. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 17:31:14 -0800 From: gspring@ix.netcom.com (Greg Springer ) To: wwi Subject: Re: new sierra Message-ID: <199603220131.RAA25745@ix7.ix.netcom.com> Hi Joey! You wrote: > >How do you make your struts? With the Sierra kits, either white metal struts or templates are provided. I will scribe the outline slightly oversized on a sheet of .030 or .040 metal and then cut it out with a Dremel stone wheel and hacksaw blade, then file to shape. I usually make them slightly too long and trial fit them until I am satisfied. The ends are filed down to act as locator pins. Both brass and aluminum can be bent somewhat to fit. The great Bob Davies has a good method for struts which must bear significant weight. He buys the Plastruct brand plastic-coated steel wire and cuts it to the desired length. He then glues pieces of sheet styrene on opposite sides and then files the assembly to shape. If you ever saw his Curtiss flying boat (1/48th scale to be sure) with the custom made photo-etched turnbuckles in the rigging you would be forced to grovel before him (as Eisenhour and I have done) chanting 'We are not worthy! We are not worthy! Cheers! Greg ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:28:13 +0800 (HKT) From: Jose Valenciano To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: new sierra Message-ID: On Thu, 21 Mar 1996, Gerald P. MCOSKER wrote: > Joey V. asked: > > > >How do you make your struts? > Joe- Have you considered Strutz from Skybirds 86 in England? Mail order > only- they are airfoil shaped brass and do a smahing job of supporting the > model both from the strut and undercarriage mode. Yes, others on the list and I would like to try the stuff but never get around to do. Maybe for some scratchbuilders not from England finding an alternative/homegrown method that's not too difficult to do would be more convenient. I can't imagine Skybirds shipping me a footlong tube to me. How do they ship the material anyway? ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:35:22 +0800 (HKT) From: Jose Valenciano To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: new sierra Message-ID: On Thu, 21 Mar 1996, Greg Springer wrote: > >How do you make your struts? > > With the Sierra kits, either white metal struts or templates are > provided. I will scribe the outline slightly oversized on a sheet of > .030 or .040 metal and then cut it out with a Dremel stone wheel and > hacksaw blade, then file to shape. I usually make them slightly too > long and trial fit them until I am satisfied. The ends are filed down > to act as locator pins. Both brass and aluminum can be bent somewhat > to fit. Great, I like to try this. > The great Bob Davies has a good method for struts which must bear > significant weight. He buys the Plastruct brand plastic-coated steel > wire and cuts it to the desired length. He then glues pieces of sheet > styrene on opposite sides and then files the assembly to shape. Over here we don't get much Plastruct but I could imagine that sandwiching a disposable syringe needle would work well too. The needle can be bought in very small diameters and its being hollow gives it rigidity. But don't you think that the plastruct sandwich method could only work for larger models with larger strut cross sections? ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:56:39 +0800 (HKT) From: Jose Valenciano To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: On Thu, 21 Mar 1996 robj@speechsys.com wrote: > For all 1/72 models and for round-section cable on 1/48-scale models, > I use "black" or "smoke" "invisible" thread, a steel-grey monofilament > available at sewing stores. Nice material this is. Here I've found it in only ONE little sewing shop. I bought a black and a "clear" (no smoke) went home and tried it. It was great! I went back to the shop and practically bought 4 more spools each. The thread is a bit glossy so I run it through some fine sandpaper. This helps super glue adhere to it and boy, how the superglue does adhere! What's more, the thread has some elasticity to it so you can rig slightly tight without any problems. I usually use the black thread but clear could come in handy if you need to depict the wire as being silver colored as this is what the thread looks like when sanded. This nylon thread is quite durable too. I've rigged my Eindekker (Eduard) with it and fellow modellers are horrified when I twang the rigging. They think it's made of the ever so fragile stretched sprue. One question though, I've never tried this, but do you think that the nylon will shrink to a straight line when heat is applied just like stretched sprue? I've never had to do this but if it's can be done then it could come in handy sometime. > For airfoil-section 1/48-scale and > larger RAF wires, I use piano wire ground to shape with a sanding > drum and a motor tool. Is it hard to get the wire to behave while sanding it down? You know, on the Spad 13 the double landing wires were wrapped in cloth thus resembling a flat cable. I simulated this by cutting a very narrow strip of acetate (which I used because of it's strength) and painted it up. Looks nice but it doesn't have any elasticity like the nylon thread. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 21:28:45 -0700 From: hartc@spot.Colorado.EDU (Charles Hart) To: wwi Subject: Books in print Message-ID: Carlos wrote: > Book recommendations: > >1. Germany's First Air Force, 1914-118 by Peter Kilduff > >2. Rise of the Fighter Aircraft, 1914-1919 by Richard P. Hallion > >3. von Richtofen and the Flying Circus by Nowarra and Brown > >The first two should still be in print. And then there are the more >specialized volumes, such as Imrie's The Fokker Triplane and Who killed >the Red Baron? by Carisella and Ryan. I think that the first book is still in print. I got my copy of the second at a store in Ohio that specialized in remaindered and overstocked books, this makes me suspect that Hallion's book is out of print. For the third, well good luck finding a copy for less than US$75 or so. One of my personal favorites among books of first hand flying experience in WW I is "No Parachute" by Arthur Gould Lee. He flew Pups and Camels in No. 46 Squadron RFC. Even if you are only a fan of Central Powers aircraft or operations, this book is a must read, the writing is excellent. As for buying books from Barnes and Noble, I had an interesting experience there about 18 months ago. I was given a gift certificate to them for my birthday. I saw this as an opportunity to expand my WW I library. I went to the store in Boulder, Colorado and requested the following: 1. The Fokker Triplane by Alex Imrie 2. Early aircraft armament (approximate title) by Harry Woodman 3. The German Giants by Haddow and Grosz 4. German Aircraft of the First World War by Gray and Thetford The clerk in the store kindly informed me that his computer indicated that all of the books I requested were in print, but that he could not obtain any of them for me because his distributor didn't handle them. He said he would have to sent me to an "independent" (read: non-coporate) bookstore to obtain these. To me the moral of all of this is not that we don't have enough books on the subject of WW I aircraft (small a market as that might be), we don't, but it should be realized that for what titles are out there one must deliberately search for them. In part this is why I think that having a bibliography page as a part of this list will help members in this search. My US$ 0.02 worth. Charles hartc@spot.colorado.edu ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 22:39:43 -0500 From: DavidL1217@aol.com To: wwi Subject: Re: new sierra Message-ID: <960321214647_252509502@emout08.mail.aol.com> I don't know about their 1/48 offerings, but the 1/72 ones have a nasty foil shaped cut out on the bottom of the fuselage. Get out the putty! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 11:51:28 +0800 (HKT) From: Jose Valenciano To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Books in print Message-ID: On Thu, 21 Mar 1996, Charles Hart wrote: > To me the moral of all of this is not that we don't have enough books > on the subject of WW I aircraft (small a market as that might be), we > don't, but it should be realized that for what titles are out there one > must deliberately search for them. In part this is why I think that having > a bibliography page as a part of this list will help members in this > search. Charles, Charles, I second the motion! A section on book distributors could also be included for the sake of mercantilism. ********************************************************************* Joey Valenciano WW1 modeller, teacher, jazz musician, joeyval@pusit.admu.edu.ph sitarist tel. (632) 921-26-75 Metro-Manila, Philippines "The more you know, the more you don't know." ********************************************************************* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 01:00:52 -0500 (GMT-0500) From: Kevin Witte To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: On Thu, 21 Mar 1996, Jose Valenciano wrote: > One question though, I've never tried this, but do you think that the > nylon will shrink to a straight line when heat is applied just like > stretched sprue? I've never had to do this but if it's can be done then > it could come in handy sometime. In my experience, the same heating principles apply with nylon as with stretched sprue: heat a little & it'll tighten, heat a little too much & it'll snap (doh!). Be careful out there, Kev ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 16:28:38 +1000 (EST) From: vprice@Sydney2.world.net (Vincent Price) To: wwi Subject: Re: Favorite 72nd injection kit (that is currently avialable) Message-ID: <199603220628.QAA19433@world.net> Try the Eduard Sopwith Baby or Schneider. Good and going very cheaply at Squadron. > 1. Relatively acurate (I want to spend my time on the details, not >correcting the Revell Dr.1) > 2. A cheap-o injection molded kit. > 3. Still in production (so I don't have to search for it). > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------- GroupWare Internet: vprice@sydney2.world.net Level 12, Phone: +61 3 9606 0607 469 La Trobe Street Fax: +61 3 9606 0604 Melbourne, Vic., 3000 Mobile: +61 041 534 2166 AUSTRALIA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 01:52:40 -0500 From: "S.M. Head" To: wwi Subject: Re: Re[2]: The end of an era.... Message-ID: <9603220054.aa13901@mail.iapc.net> > One question.. when did Fiat or FIAT come on the scene? The > first a/c that I think of with them has to be the CR32, but > I'm sure that wasn't their first effort. Were they around > for the Greatwar? > > ---Stephen Tontoni Fiat entered the aircraft scene in 1918 with the Fiat R.2 designed by Celestino Rosatelli. It was a two-place recce bipe. 500 were ordered but only 129 being produced before the Great War's end negated the need for them. Scott Head Statement- "The internet is like an unending tree of sprue, linking one component to the next..." -- Newsgroup post Reply: "That's stretching it." -- Shot Cadet ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 22:03:35 -0900 From: The Flying Wrench To: wwi Cc: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: <199603220703.WAA13916@anchor> At 04:48 PM 3/21/96 -0500, Carlos Valdes wrote: >Greetings all, > As very much a beginning modeler, I would be very interested to >hear from you old pros as to any aircraft rigging tips, tecniques, >and/or materials that are dear to your hearts and hands. Any suggestions >will be much appreciated. > Carlos The Wrench reveals: It is a well kept secret that most of us inhereted 100th generation, trained chinese silkworms. Each worm is trained to rig a different aircraft. The Gotha G.V, Caudron G.4, and Caproni Ca. 32 worms are the most difficult to train and therefore the most difficult to obtain. After we're finished building a kit, we simply put the model in a box with a couple of these wonder worms and the next morning the aircraft is totally rigged. A lot of folks want you to think they work hard at this rigging thing, but it just ain't so. Unfortunately my D.Va rigging worm died last week, so I have to resort to other means for rigging. I chose stiff, .004, wire for my 1/48 D.V as I feel it is the easiest to work with. A good starter kit for this type of rigging is the DML's, (now defunct) Fokker D.VII kit (Fokker is defunct, not the kit). There are many other methods such as the 'Michelangelo method' whereby you simply take a block of plastic and carve away everything that does not look like the representative aircraft. This method requires a great deal of care though, especially when carving out the rigging wires. Then there is the 'I bought it in the Philippines' method whereby the modeler simply orders there model from the Philippines already built and rigged (Note: this is by far the easiest but the least rewarding method as there is no chance to glue your fingers together with that new bottle of Cyanoacrylic you just bought). Well that's about it. I'm sure the other list members will have their own favorite methods. Undoubtedly they will regale you with tales of rigging feats known only to the gods of accuracy; but look closely at their shelves and see if some of those boxes don't have holes punched in the sides. The Flyin' (and riggin') Wrench CONTACT! - I'm outta here ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 12:44:22 GMT From: syclone@itl.net (Brian Bushe) To: wwi Subject: hello again! Message-ID: <9603221244.AA18118@hades> Hello all, We've just got our new company on-line (or near line as it's a dial-up service for now) so i've re subscribed. What's the news? I guess you've all seen the new Eduard dV by now... i guess i better check the archive page to catch the gossip. Anyone going to the Southern Expo in the UK? regards, brian bushe ( syclone@itl.net ) BTW bad luck you aussies in the cricket, but NZ should have had you in the quarters. if only we could bowl.... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 12:55:36 GMT From: Richard Humberstone To: Brian Bushe , wwi Subject: Re: hello again! Message-ID: <827499337.21881.0@stratauk.demon.co.uk> >Anyone going to the Southern Expo in the UK? I'll be going with all the latest Blue Rider and Insignia stuff. If I get time I'll post a report in a week or so. Look forward to seeing any other WWI list members there. Richard Humberstone ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 5:14:29 -0800 (PST) From: MCCLURE@skynet.litc.lockheed.com To: WWI Subject: Replicating silver dope Message-ID: <960322051429.2020ff47@skynet.litc.lockheed.com> I am planning to build the Meikraft kit of the Pfalz D. III and was wondering what is the best way to replicate the silver dope in 1/72nd scale. Please post your favorite method and paint. I may be able to use this for some of my other silver doped aircraft. Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 10:40:26 EST From: Brian Nicklas To: Subject: Taube - Plastic 1/72 Message-ID: <199603221538.KAA07995@pease1.sr.unh.edu> Anyone have a lead on an Airframe 1/72 Taube in 1/72 that I could buy?Should I try Rosemont? Brian Nicklas NASAD003@SIVM.SI.EDU ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:45:07 +0000 From: robj@speechsys.com To: wwi Subject: Re: new sierra Message-ID: <9603220935.aa04050@scosysv.speechsys.com> I have made quite a few struts by squashing aluminum tube to a oval shape an then finishing with file and sandpaper. Use a couple of thickish steel plates as squashers. I carve Nieuport-type wooden struts from cherry. The wood comes from the flying model and dollhouse section of the hobby shop. I apply strips of white decal or graphics tape and then clear varnish them. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:45:07 +0000 From: robj@speechsys.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Books in print Message-ID: <9603220935.aa04058@scosysv.speechsys.com> As non-specialist bookstores go, independents like the Tattered Cover in Denver are usually better about ordering books. I have also had excellent experiences buying by mail from a place in Virginia, Aeroplane Books (in Williamsburg?). Service was so fast and prices were so reasonable that it may have been more convenient to buy from them than it would be to go down to a local store. It was certainly faster than a special order at a local store, which always takes 4-10 weeks. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:45:07 +0000 From: robj@speechsys.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: <9603220935.aa04063@scosysv.speechsys.com> Heat does work. But I use it only as a last resort, usually when a piece of rigging on a long finished model suddenly goes slack. It seems to take more heat to tighten nylon, so it is easier to damage the rigging and/or the model. Nylon also seems more prone to loosening up as soon as the heat is removed. A better method for tightening was described in FineScale Modeler a couple of years ago. Rig after painting and decaling. For each "wire," anchor one end firmly before putting any tension on it (using superglue or, better, by tying it off to something structural). Then drill a hole in the corresponding surface at the correct angle for the finished "wire" (drill right through if the surface is a wing). Thread the free end of the nylon filament through the hole and weigh the end with a clthes pin or hemostats. Then superglue the taught nylon to the model. When the glue has set, trim off the excess and fill and touch up the holes. necessary. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:45:07 +0000 From: robj@speechsys.com To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: <9603220935.aa04054@scosysv.speechsys.com> Q: Is it hard to get wire to behave while grinding it down? A: Yes and no. I clamp the wire to a straight length of 2x6 and damp out vibrations by holding the wire down against the wood with a leather- gloved finger (it gets HOT). I find that I grind quite a bit of wire before I get enough usable pieces. The main problem is low spots in the wire. They tend to trap the sanding drum and thus get worse fast. The wire gets thin and brittle and breaks. Usually this is not too big a problem. The wire is cheap and you usually do not need really long pieces. The next time I try this, though, I am going to try to make some sort of jig, something like a graphic artist's cutting rail, to study my hand and guide the tool. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 12:20:25 -0500 (EST) From: Jesse Thorn To: wwi Subject: Re: Rigging secrets of the stars Message-ID: I use a method described by Ray Rimmel in his Windsock article on building the Contrail Zeppelin Staaken kit. 1. Get some steel piano wire - available at most hobby stores under the K&S label. Or got to a music store and get some heavy gauge non-wound guitar strings. 2. Take a sheet of paper, fold in half, make a sharp crease by running your thumbnail, etc. down the crease. 3. Place the wire in the crease, tack down with a few drops of superglue. 4. Run some superglue over the wire and fold the paper over the wire. Hold it together until the glue hardens. 5. Take a steel straight edge and a sharp XActo blade and trim the excess paper from the wire 6. Cover in thick superglue and let dry. Then cut and sand to shape. You get an airfoil shaped strut of surprising strength. You can cut to length with wire cutters. The superglue-paper combination can be carved and sanded to shape. After a bit of practice this is an easy inexpensive way to make struts. I use these for "load bearing" struts. Other struts I make from COntrail strut material. --Jesse ------------------------------ End of WWI Digest 72 ********************